It is a ppt which is related to Textile technology.

1. Guest lecture on
FABRIC STRUCTURE AND
DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
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2. PART – I
ELEMENTS OF
WEAVE DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
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3. Methods of Weave
Representation
• Divided into 2 type:
1. Warp overlap
2. Weft overlap
• 2 methods of weave representation:
1. Linear Method 2. Canvas Method
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7
6
5
4
3
2
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
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4. Repeat of Weave and Shift
• The repeat of weave is a complete element of the
weave.
• Shift or move is the distance from a painted square on
one horizontal space to the corresponding painted
square on the next horizontal space
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9
8
7
6
5
Ry
4
3
2 1 2
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Warp repeat, Rx = 5
Weft repeat, Ry = 5
Sy = Horizontal Shift
Sx = Vertical Shift
Fundamental weave: 5/2 sateen
Rx Sy
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5. Draft
• Technically it shows the sequence of raising and lowering the heald
frames or heald shaft, a set called harness for the weave formation.
• The type of weave to be produced depends on the draft.
• The basic data for constructing the draft is the weave.
• The draft is usually shown at the top of the weave diagram.
• Drafts can be classified as follows:
1. Straight draft
2. Skip draft
3. Pointed draft
4. Broken draft
5. Divided draft
6. Grouped draft
7. Curved draft
8. Combined draft
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6. Straight draft
 The simplest draft, forms the basis for many drafts.
 Each successive yarn is drawn on successive
shaft, the first warp yarn on the first shaft, the
second shaft, and so on.
The number of shafts equals the warp repeat, Draft
repeat, Rd = Warp repeat, Rx = 5 (example above).
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7. Skip draft
 Used in weaving the fabrics with a high density of warp
threads.
 Possible to use a number of shafts two or more times
greater than the warp repeat and than the minimal
necessary number of shafts for this weave.
 The density of healds on each shaft decreases, and
friction thread against thread, and thread against heald
reduces.
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8. Pointed draft
• This draft is used in weaving the fabrics with a symmetrical design, when the
straight draft cannot be applied because of a large warp repeat.
• The pointed draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts,
constructed first in one direction and then in the other.
• The change of direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft,
which are the points of reversal.
• These shafts contains only one heald each number of shafts used is about
two times less than the warp repeat of the weave: Ns = Rx/2 + 1.
• A variety of derived twills, and also the diamond designs, which are
symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes.
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9. Broken draft
• This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.
• A combination of straight drafts with different directions of constructing.
• The direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft.
• When the direction is reversed the first threads of the next group is
started higher or lower than the last thread of the preceding group.
• This small modification changes considerably the design by breaking the
axis of symmetry.
• The broken draft is applied for producing hearing bone twills, diaper
designs and some other designs.
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10. Divided draft
• This draft is employed for derived weaves, double-warp weaves,
two ply weaves, pile weaves, and some others.
• The shafts are divided into two or more groups.
• A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.
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11. Grouped draft
• This draft is employed for production of check and
stripe designs, in which the stripes have different
weaves or their combinations.
• The draft is used for producing the fabric with two
different stripes containing 15 and 12 threads,
respectively.
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12. Curved draft Combined draft
• Curved drafts are irregular and
cannot be classified.
• These draft are applied for fancy
weaves having a large warp
repeat with the purpose of
reducing the number of shafts.
• The minimal number of shafts
equals the numbers of threads in
warp repeat with different order
of interlacing.
• The drawing-in is done applying
the rule: all warp threads which
work alike are drawn on the
same shaft.
• Oral instructions cannot be given
to the drawer, as well as to the
weaver.
• They should be supplied with
drawings of the curved draft.
• Various methods of drawing-
in can be combined in one
draft for producing a certain
type of fabric.
• Combined draft is most
complicated and can be
chosen only if there are some
technological or economical
reasons.
• It can be done properly by the
designer having a great
experience.
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13. Requirements to Drawing-In
 Studied first using a straight draft then the simplest
and suitable for the design.
 The number of shafts should be as small as
possible, but the density of healds is to be calculated
and should not exceed the standard value.
 The distribution of threads on different shafts should
be as uniform as possible.
 Used the front shafts with minimal height of lifting for
the threads with biggest number of intersections in the
weave repeat and for a weaker system of warp
threads.
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14. Weaving Plan
“Weaving plan is a characteristic of process
conditions of fabric production on the loom,
expressed in graphical form”
• Consists of 3 elements placed in certain order:
1. Repeat of weave, example plain, twill and sateen
2. Draft or drawing-in
3. lifting plan - Determines the order of lifting and
lowering the shafts in the process of forming the
weave; cam, dobby and jacquard.
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15. Example of straight draft (arrangement of warp yarn
on healdframe)
Shaft No. 4
Shaft No. 3
Shaft No. 2
Shaft No. 1
Healdwire
No. 4
Healdwire
No. 1
Healdwire
No. 2
Healdwire
No. 3
Repeat No. 1 Repeat No. 2
To warp
beam
To cloth
roller
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16. 2.6 Relation between Weave, Draft
and Lifting Plan.
In the draft,
there are 5
horizontal
spaces
which
represent
the shafts
There are 10
vertical spaces
in the lifting
plan, equal to
the number of
weft threads in
the weave
repeats
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17. 2.7 Elements Arrangement on
Weaving Plan
C B
Lifting Plan on Left Position
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18. Lifting Plan on Right Position
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19. Task 1: Construct a weaving Plan from
a Given Weave
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20. Task 2: Construct a Weave from a Given
Draft and Lifting Plan
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21. Task 3: Construct a Draft from a Given
Lifting Plan and Weave
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22. THANK YOU
Email: dgk.psgtech@gmail.com
Mobile: +91 9600953305
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