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Denim
Washing
Delighting in Denim - a
wonder fabric
Rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two
(twi- "double") or more warp fibers, producing the familiar
diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric
Introduction
Dry denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being
dyed during its production. Fading is affected by the body
of the person and the activities of daily life
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim
fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength.
Denim wash
Dry denim
Denim washes are of two types:
• Mechanical washes
• Chemical washes
Basic Mechanical washes
• Stone wash
• Micro Sanding
Basic Chemical washes
• Denim bleaching
• Acid wash
• Enzyme wash
Mechanical washes
• Freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large
washing machines and tumbled with
pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and
desirable look.
• Variations in composition, hardness, size
shape and porosity make these stones
multifunctional.
1. Stone wash
• Expensive process.
• Pumice stones gives the additional effect of a faded or worn look.
• Abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some
dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.
Contd…
Load garment and
stone
Tumble dry
Soften
Unload
Rinse
Desize
Extract
Rinse Stone wash
Process cycle
Selection of stone
• Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape , and size for
the particular end product
• Large ,hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight
fabrics
• Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight , more delicate
items.
• Stone to fabric weight ratio should vary from .5 to 3.1
• It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the
desired result.
• Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or
washed down the drain.
Problems caused by stones:
• Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to
machine and machine to stone abrasion
• Increase in labor to remove dust from finished garments.
• Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
• Problems of back staining and re deposition.
Back staining or Re-deposition:
The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose
or by a conventional washing process may cause "back staining“ or
"redeposition“
Re-coloration of blue threads and blue coloration of white threads,
resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads.
Remedy
• Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle.
• Intermediate replacement of wash liqour.
• Using alkaline detergent like sodium perborate with
optical brightner as afterwash.
• Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to
control Outcome of a load of jeans is never
uniform, little percentage always getting ruined
by too much abrasion.
• Process is also non-selective.
• Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the
washing machines gets abraded.
• This reduces quality of the products and life of
equipment, and increases production costs.
Limitations of stone washing
Disadvantages of stonewashing
• Process control is not easy because the change in size and
quality of stones impart different degree of fading, strength,
etc.
• Stones may turn into powder during the process of making
the garment greyish in colour and rough too
• Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash
• Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts
• Stone sometimes creates harm to the accessories of garments.
• Most economical and environmentally friendly
• Reduced waste, pollution, quality variability, and imperfections
• Unlike pumice or acid, enzymes can be recycled.
• Small dose of enzymes can replace several dozen pounds of pumice
stones.
• Productivity can be increased by 30-50% as the room formerly taken
up by the pumice stones in the washing machines can be filled with
more jeans.
• No need for the time-consuming and expensive task of removing
stone fragments from the jeans after the wash.
• No pumice dust to endanger employee health or gritty sediment to
clog drains.
Biostoning
There are 3 ways for this technique:
• Sandblasting
• Machine sanding
• Hand sanding or hand brushing
Used in various ways:
• Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards)
• On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes
standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and
• Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect.
2. MICROSANDING
2.1 Sand blasting
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in
granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high
speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be
treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.
• It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
• It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
• Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
• Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.
• Removes color from certain areas, either allover or placed
• Gives additional softness
• Sand is actually shot at the garment with a powerful spray
gun.
• Recent technology has introduced "automatic"
sandblasting, in which the jeans hang and rotate
continuously.
Cond…
Sand blasting
Chemical washes
• A strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or
KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition.
• Discoloration is usually more apparent depending on strength of the
bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time.
• A strong bleach with short treatment time is preferable .
• Bleached goods should be adequately antichlored or after washed with
peroxide to minimize yellowing.
• Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color
uniformity.
1. Denim bleaching
Load garment
with/without stone
Optical brightening
Bleach with cold
water
Softening
Rinse
Desize
Rinse Bleach
Process cycle
• Process is difficult to control i.e.
difficult to reach the same level
of bleaching in repeated runs.
• When desired level of bleaching
reached the time span available
to stop the bleaching is very
narrow. Due to harshness of
chemical, it may cause damage to
cellulose resulting in severe
strength losses and/or breaks or
pinholes at the seam, pocket, etc.
Limitations
• Harmful to human health and
causes corrosion to stainless steel.
• Required antichlor treatment.
• Problem of yellowing is very
frequent due to residual chlorine.
• Chlorinated organic substances
occur as abundant products in
bleaching, and pass into the
effluent where they cause severe
environmental pollution.
Contd…
Some people have great results use chlorine bleach such as
a Clorox Bleach, and others prefer a commercial color
remover such as Rit or Tintex. This reducing bleach must be
used very carefully, as it will easily fade colors in any fabric it
touches.
• Done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in
a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for
localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white
contrast. After that it is washed with acid.
• Color contrast can be enhanced by optical brightening.
• Addition of water is not required.
2. Acid wash:
Load garment
With pumice stone
Optical brightening
Dry tumbler
Softening
Dry
Desize
Cool with adding
water
Antichlor
Process cycle
• Acid washed , indigo dyed denim has a
tendency to yellow after wet processing.
• The major cause is residual manganese due to
incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing.
Limitations
• Manganese is effectively removed during laundering
with addition of ethelene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid as
chelating agent.
• Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone
wash , but came with added dangers, expenses, and
pollution.
Remedy
3. ENZYME WASH
• Environmentally friendly
• Application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the
cellulase
• When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by
changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature
• A final rinsing and softening cycle is next
• Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable
• Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect. Faded garment with acid
cellulase enzyme provides less colour contrast in proportion to
garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes
Enzyme wash
3.1. CELLULASE WASH
• This is done to achieve a wash down appearance without the use
of stones or with reduced quantities of stones.
• Cellulase enzymes are selective only to the cellulose and will not
degrade starch.
• Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose
(cotton) will result in surface fiber removal (weight loss).
• This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.
Factors influencing cellulase performance
• pH
• Temperature
• Time
• Dose
• Mechanical action
1. Bleach fast Indigo
• Value addition to denim
• Retains indigo on certain parts
• Kind of resist effect
• Chemical applied by brush, cured at 150ºC
• Ex. Indigofix AXN
CHEMICALS FOR DENIMS
2. Anti-depositing agent
• Prevents “back staining” of fabric by loose indigo
during washing
• Improves contrast in denim
• Used in stone wash step
3. Dye stuffs with softener
• To carry dyeing and softening in one step
• Soft and supple hand
• Saves time, money and energy as added to final rinse
• Gives used and worn out effect
4. Anti creasing agent
• Provides fabric to fabric lubrication
• Prevents formation of crack marks and streaks
• Minimizes abrasion and gives strength
5. Wrinkle formation
• Creating smooth and permanent wrinkle
• Cross linking concept
• Ex. DMDHEU
6. White pigment
• Can be applied by brush, spray or screen
• Then cured at 150ºC
• Washed and treated with softener
Latest developments
Quick wash denim
• Aims at minimizing wash cycle time
• Results in more economical washes and solving many other
washing problems faced by launderes during fashion wash
cycles
• The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to 30% less fixed
dye to obtain a given shade
• During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed quickly,giving
washed look
Advantages of quick wash denim
1. Streaks develop in garments after washing process due to
differences in dye concentration of denim fabrics are avoided
using a modified alkali-ph controlled system giving uniformity
of shade.
2. Amount of indigo dye required is less thus making it an
economical process
3. Time required for washing is 20-30% less than that required
for conventional denim.
4. Lesser enzymes and oxidising agent used
5. Environment friendly process
6. Back staining is minimised due to less concentration of of
indigo dye in the wash liqour.
Apart from the basic washes which are used many innovations
has been done in the field of denim.
Not only there are variations in the denim in the weaving
stage but also lot of experimentation has been done to give
denim more aesthetic appearance.
CONCLUSION
Thank you

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fdocuments.in_denim-washes-final.ppt

  • 2. Rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric Introduction
  • 3. Dry denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Fading is affected by the body of the person and the activities of daily life Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Denim wash
  • 5. Denim washes are of two types: • Mechanical washes • Chemical washes
  • 6. Basic Mechanical washes • Stone wash • Micro Sanding
  • 7. Basic Chemical washes • Denim bleaching • Acid wash • Enzyme wash
  • 9. • Freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. • Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. 1. Stone wash
  • 10. • Expensive process. • Pumice stones gives the additional effect of a faded or worn look. • Abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn. Contd…
  • 11. Load garment and stone Tumble dry Soften Unload Rinse Desize Extract Rinse Stone wash Process cycle
  • 12. Selection of stone • Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape , and size for the particular end product • Large ,hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics • Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight , more delicate items.
  • 13. • Stone to fabric weight ratio should vary from .5 to 3.1 • It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result. • Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or washed down the drain.
  • 14. Problems caused by stones: • Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion • Increase in labor to remove dust from finished garments. • Water pollution during disposal of used liquor. • Problems of back staining and re deposition.
  • 15. Back staining or Re-deposition: The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose or by a conventional washing process may cause "back staining“ or "redeposition“ Re-coloration of blue threads and blue coloration of white threads, resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads.
  • 16. Remedy • Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle. • Intermediate replacement of wash liqour. • Using alkaline detergent like sodium perborate with optical brightner as afterwash.
  • 17. • Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion. • Process is also non-selective. • Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines gets abraded. • This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases production costs. Limitations of stone washing
  • 18. Disadvantages of stonewashing • Process control is not easy because the change in size and quality of stones impart different degree of fading, strength, etc. • Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment greyish in colour and rough too • Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash • Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts • Stone sometimes creates harm to the accessories of garments.
  • 19. • Most economical and environmentally friendly • Reduced waste, pollution, quality variability, and imperfections • Unlike pumice or acid, enzymes can be recycled. • Small dose of enzymes can replace several dozen pounds of pumice stones. • Productivity can be increased by 30-50% as the room formerly taken up by the pumice stones in the washing machines can be filled with more jeans. • No need for the time-consuming and expensive task of removing stone fragments from the jeans after the wash. • No pumice dust to endanger employee health or gritty sediment to clog drains. Biostoning
  • 20. There are 3 ways for this technique: • Sandblasting • Machine sanding • Hand sanding or hand brushing Used in various ways: • Flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards) • On the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and • Various templates can be used to create a 3D effect. 2. MICROSANDING
  • 21.
  • 22. 2.1 Sand blasting Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look. • It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals. • It is a water free process therefore no drying required. • Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible. • Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.
  • 23.
  • 24. • Removes color from certain areas, either allover or placed • Gives additional softness • Sand is actually shot at the garment with a powerful spray gun. • Recent technology has introduced "automatic" sandblasting, in which the jeans hang and rotate continuously. Cond…
  • 27. • A strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition. • Discoloration is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. • A strong bleach with short treatment time is preferable . • Bleached goods should be adequately antichlored or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. • Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity. 1. Denim bleaching
  • 28. Load garment with/without stone Optical brightening Bleach with cold water Softening Rinse Desize Rinse Bleach Process cycle
  • 29. • Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in repeated runs. • When desired level of bleaching reached the time span available to stop the bleaching is very narrow. Due to harshness of chemical, it may cause damage to cellulose resulting in severe strength losses and/or breaks or pinholes at the seam, pocket, etc. Limitations
  • 30. • Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel. • Required antichlor treatment. • Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine. • Chlorinated organic substances occur as abundant products in bleaching, and pass into the effluent where they cause severe environmental pollution. Contd…
  • 31. Some people have great results use chlorine bleach such as a Clorox Bleach, and others prefer a commercial color remover such as Rit or Tintex. This reducing bleach must be used very carefully, as it will easily fade colors in any fabric it touches.
  • 32. • Done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. After that it is washed with acid. • Color contrast can be enhanced by optical brightening. • Addition of water is not required. 2. Acid wash:
  • 33. Load garment With pumice stone Optical brightening Dry tumbler Softening Dry Desize Cool with adding water Antichlor Process cycle
  • 34. • Acid washed , indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow after wet processing. • The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing. Limitations
  • 35. • Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with addition of ethelene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid as chelating agent. • Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone wash , but came with added dangers, expenses, and pollution. Remedy
  • 36. 3. ENZYME WASH • Environmentally friendly • Application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulase • When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature • A final rinsing and softening cycle is next • Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable • Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect. Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less colour contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes
  • 38. 3.1. CELLULASE WASH • This is done to achieve a wash down appearance without the use of stones or with reduced quantities of stones. • Cellulase enzymes are selective only to the cellulose and will not degrade starch. • Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose (cotton) will result in surface fiber removal (weight loss). • This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.
  • 39.
  • 40. Factors influencing cellulase performance • pH • Temperature • Time • Dose • Mechanical action
  • 41. 1. Bleach fast Indigo • Value addition to denim • Retains indigo on certain parts • Kind of resist effect • Chemical applied by brush, cured at 150ºC • Ex. Indigofix AXN CHEMICALS FOR DENIMS
  • 42. 2. Anti-depositing agent • Prevents “back staining” of fabric by loose indigo during washing • Improves contrast in denim • Used in stone wash step
  • 43. 3. Dye stuffs with softener • To carry dyeing and softening in one step • Soft and supple hand • Saves time, money and energy as added to final rinse • Gives used and worn out effect
  • 44. 4. Anti creasing agent • Provides fabric to fabric lubrication • Prevents formation of crack marks and streaks • Minimizes abrasion and gives strength 5. Wrinkle formation • Creating smooth and permanent wrinkle • Cross linking concept • Ex. DMDHEU
  • 45. 6. White pigment • Can be applied by brush, spray or screen • Then cured at 150ºC • Washed and treated with softener
  • 46.
  • 48. Quick wash denim • Aims at minimizing wash cycle time • Results in more economical washes and solving many other washing problems faced by launderes during fashion wash cycles • The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to 30% less fixed dye to obtain a given shade • During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed quickly,giving washed look
  • 49.
  • 50. Advantages of quick wash denim 1. Streaks develop in garments after washing process due to differences in dye concentration of denim fabrics are avoided using a modified alkali-ph controlled system giving uniformity of shade. 2. Amount of indigo dye required is less thus making it an economical process 3. Time required for washing is 20-30% less than that required for conventional denim.
  • 51. 4. Lesser enzymes and oxidising agent used 5. Environment friendly process 6. Back staining is minimised due to less concentration of of indigo dye in the wash liqour.
  • 52. Apart from the basic washes which are used many innovations has been done in the field of denim. Not only there are variations in the denim in the weaving stage but also lot of experimentation has been done to give denim more aesthetic appearance. CONCLUSION