Material exploration yarns & fabrics

Material Exploration - FABRIC
PRESENTED BY – NEERAJ K SINHA – DESIGN PROFESSIONAL
EMAIL – sinhaneeraj01@gmail.com / contact- 9199645024
Am alumni of NIFT KOLKATA

Material Exploration - FABRIC
The words fabric and cloth are
used in textile assembly trades
(such as tailoring and
dressmaking) as synonyms for
textile.
Fabric refers to any material
made through weaving,
knitting, spreading,
crocheting, or bonding that
may be used in production
of further goods (garments,
etc.).

How to Determine Face Side of the Fabric?
•Side with printed trade mark at both ends is fabric face
•Upper side of printed letter on the selvage
•If selvage contains stentering holes, more regularly shows face
•
THE GENERAL RULES FOR IDENTIFYING FABRIC FACE SIDE FOR DIFFERENT
FABRICS ARE :
Cloths with colour are usually brighter on the face
•Cords are more pronounced on the face
•Sateen fabric show face by weft on top
•In case of Satins warp on top
•Dobby fabrics and brocades have the pattern more prominent on the
face
•Pile fabric with brilliant color on top
•Pile fabric with more pile on the face

BASICS OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
The woven fabric is formed by two sets of yarns - one
is called as WARP and another set is called as WEFT.
Definition of Warp: The lengthwise (longitudinal) or
vertical set of yarns in the fabric are called as warp
yarns (simply warp).
Definition of Weft: The horizontal or transverse set
of yarns in the fabric are known as weft yarns (simply
Weft). See the below image for identifying warp and
weft yarns.

Warp Weft
With reed mark No reed mark
End spacing is more
uniform
Pick spacing is more
irregular
Higher tension Lower tension
Parallel to selvedge -
Higher sett (ends/cm) Lower sett (picks/cm)
Higher strength Lower strength than warp
If folded yarn is used, warp
is always with fold yarn
Weft is single yarn
Distinguish of warp and weft (1)

Warp Weft
If both are with same yarn, warp is
finer, higher twist, with longer staple
yarn
Weft is coarser, lower in
twist, shorter in staple
Usually sized No sizing
Warp is Z twist Weft is S twist
Usually lower crimp% Higher crimp%
For stripes of fancy yarn, introduced
in warp
-
For leno (selvedge), threads are warp -
For cotton twill, twill run up from
left to right when warp is vertical
-
Distinguish of warp and weft (2)

Comparison between warp and
weft yarns.
•In a fabric, the lengthwise or
longitudinal yarns are warps and
traverse or horizontal yarns are weft.
•Warps yarns are stronger compared
to weft yarns. During the weaving
warps are held under high tension,
moves up and down for shed
formation.
•Warp yarns are finer than weft yarns.
•Weft yarn is inserted over-an-under
the warp yarns.

Warp Vs Weft in weaving stage
Warp yarns are wound in a beam and weft yarns are drawn
through a shuttle (traditional weaving), that contain spindle
inside it.
Warps long yarns in fabric (as long as the fabric length) and
weft is short in length which is equal to the width of the fabric.
WARP YARNS WEFT YARNS

FABRICS BY WEAVING – WOVEN FABRICS

FABRICS BY WEAVING – WOVEN FABRICS
HAND LOOM MADEPOWERLOOM MADE

FABRICS BY KNITTING – KNITTED FABRICS

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE

CIRCULAR KNIT FABRIC FLAT BED KNIT FABRIC

KNITS AND WOVEN GARMENTS CAN BE COMPARED
AS :
1. Knits garments are soft and comfortable compared
to woven garments
2. Knits garments are more stretchable compared
woven fabrics
3. Woven garments are stiffer compared to knits
products

Woven fabric has two finished edges, which is known as SELVEDGE.
The selvage is the part of fabric where you often see manufacturer’s
information, contrasting trim, etc.
The selvage does not fray, although some selvages have frayed threads
hanging off after the finished edge. This fraying will not affect the fabric in
any way.
SELVEDGE & ITS IMPORTANCE

The line of thread moving from selvage to selvage is called weft.
Weft is mostly referred to as the crosswise grainline.
The next time you buy fabric, watch the fabric being cut.
IT WILL BE cut ALONG THE CROSSWISE GRAIN.
GRAINLINE & ITS TYPES & IMPORTANCE
CROSSWISE GRAIN LINE.

The line of fabric that moves at a right angle to the crosswise grain is
the lengthwise grain line.
This thread runs the entire length of the fabric and is PARALLEL TO THE
SELVAGE.
When you place a pattern on the fabric, you align the pattern’s
grain line with the fabric’s lengthwise grain.
LENGTHWISE GRAIN LINE.

True Bias is an invisible line that’s at a 45 degree angle
to the crosswise and lengthwise grain.
It has a good deal of stretch.
When garments are cut on the bias, they hug and move
easily with the body. Fabric for spaghetti straps, bias binding
and cording are also cut on the bias.

Single Needle Lockstitch
Direct Drive UBT Sewing
Machine
Applications :Sewing netting
Butt-seaming is used for joining the
ends of piece goods
Edging emblems
Purl stitching
Rolled hemming
Overlock Sewing Machine with Auto
Trimmer
TYPES OF INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE

Applications :Suitable for general Knit
Wears, Bottom Hem Knit Underwear,
Children Clothes and sportswear
2 or 3 Needle Chain Stitch Interlock
Sewing Machine
Uses of Bartack Sewing Machine in Apparel
Sewing:Bar Tracking Sewing Machine is used
to secure pocket corners, belt loops, the
open end of a button hole, zipper flies.
Bar Tracking Sewing Machine is also used for
small decorative tracks and shapes.
Bartack Sewing Machine

Double Needle Lock Stitch Sewing
Machine
Button Hole Sewing Machine

TYPES OF LOOM
BACK STRAP LOOM – PRIMITIVE LOOM
USED IN NORTH EASTERN STATES AS NAGALAND, MANIPUR, SIKKIM .

TYPES OF PRINTING OVER FABRICS
HAND BLOCKS – WOODEN BLOCKS

HAND BLOCKS – BY USING METAL BLOCKS . NORMALLY USED IN
WAX RESIST PRINTING AS BATIK PRINTING

SCREEN PRINTING MANUAL –
•PROVIDES BIGGER REPEAT SIZE IN DESIGN
•BETTER DETAILING AS PHOTOMETRIC FILM SHEET IS USED FOR DESIGN
TRACE SO EVEN DOTS CAN BE PRINTED WELL WITH PRECISION.
•COMPARATIVELY FASTER PRODUCTION CAPACITY THAN BLOCK
PRINTING.
•LESSER PROBLEM OF REPEAT MARK UPS

TYPES OF FABRICS & ITS PROPERTIES

VOILE
• A soft yet firm, sheer fabric
of plain weave.
• Generally made of combed
hard twisted single yarns,
although ply yarns are also
used.
• Has clinging effect.
• It is generally 100% cotton ,
blends include polyester or
linen.
• Can be solid dyed or
printed

Properties
• It is sheer and lightweight fabric
• It has soft feel
• It drapes and gathers very well
• Generally 100% cotton and less resilient
USES
 Ladies dresses, skirts and dress lining
 Accessory fabric in apparels

POPLIN
• Poplin, also called tabinet (or
tabbinet), is a strong fabric in a
plain weave of any fiber or blend
• Poplin traditionally consisted of
a silk warp with a weft of worsted
yarn. As the weft is in the form of a
stout cord the fabric has a ridged
structure, like rep, which gave
depth and softness to the lustre of
the silky surface.
• It is now made
with wool, cotton, silk, rayon
, or any mixture of these,
though originally made from
silk.

Properties
• It is soft and medium weight fabric
• It is durable and has good wear resistance
• It has average drapability
• It has poor crease resistance
USES
 men's shirts, blouses, pyjamas, children's clothes, and dresses.
 Perfect for making banners or table drape displays in stores or
tradeshows.
 It is also widely used as all kinds of sportswear, shirts, boy's suits,
uniforms, blouses and dresses.

MUSLIN
• Coarse type of plain
weave fabric made of
carded cotton or
polyster/cotton yarns of
various thread counts
heavier than long cloth
upto 140.
• Muslin is most typically
an unbleached or white
cloth, produced
from carded cotton yarn

Properties
• Unbleached greige cloth with low moisture absorption
• It is smooth and delicate
• It has good drapability
• It is light to medium weight
• It has low crease resistance
USES
 The upholsterers put muslin as the primary fabric of chair and sofa.
 The fabric is lightweight, so it is used as slipcovers, bedspread, bed
skirt, throw pillow, table skirt, etc.
 Muslin curtains and window shade suits a country house.

GEORGETTE
• Georgette (shortened
from crêpe
Georgette or Georgette
crêpe) is a sheer,
lightweight, dull-
finished crêpe fabric
• Can be solid dyed or
printed
• crinkly surface is
created by
alternating S- and Z-
twist yarns in
both warp and weft

Properties
• Uneven texture and has crispy feel
• It is a sheer fabric and light weight
• It has elegant look but dull appearance
• It snagging is more and is difficult to sew
USES
 Used as interlining or lining
 Used to manufacture sarees
 Used for scarves , dresses and various garment
accessories

GAUZE
• May be of cotton, wool,
silk, rayon and other
man-made fibers.
• Usually plain weave,
leno-weave
• Occassionally knitted
• Gauze used
in bookbinding is
called mull, and is used
in case binding to adhere
the text block to
the book cover

Properties
• Is thin and lightweight.
• It is fine and airy.
• It is crispy and has poor drape.
• It is open-textured.
USES
 Bandages.
 Some silk or rayon gauze used for curtains, trimmings.
 casual window dressings like panels and scarves.

SATIN
• Originally silk, now also of
filament man-made fibers
with a highly lustrous
surface and usually a dull
back.
• It is a warp-dominated
weaving technique that
forms a minimum number
of interlacings in a fabric
• Made in different weights

Properties
• Schreiner finish to produce lustre.
• Soft and good drapability
• It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface
• The surface slides easily for linings.
• The long floats like 7/1 or 11/1 and filament
fabrics are subject to snagging and is poor
resistant to abrasion.
• The shorter floats like 4/1 or ¼ and spun
fabrics may be tough, compact and durable
with low luster.

Uses
• commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets,
athletic shorts,
• Women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses and
evening gowns, but also in some men's boxe
shorts, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the
production of pointe shoes for use in ballet.
• Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics,
upholstery, and bed sheets.

VELVET
• Velvet is a type of woven
tufted fabric in which the
cut threads are evenly distributed ,
with a short dense pile, giving it a
distinctive feel.
• Compact short pile of silk or man-
made fiber and usually a cotton
perhaps rayon back.
• Similar to plush but shorter pile.
• Velvet pile is created by warp or
vertical yarns and velveteen pile is
created by weft or fill yarns.

Properties
• Smooth and softer
• It is thick and bulky
• Good warmth retention
• Good drape and fall
• Good crease resistance
USES
 Evening wear
 Upholstery
 Curtains and Cushions covers

FLANNEL
• A fuller and napped woven
fabric, generally of wool yarn.
• Woven with a twill weave which
may be obscured by the nap.
• Blends can be used to increase
the comfort and drapability of
the fabric
• Flannel may be brushed to create
extra softness or remain
unbrushed.
• Typically, flannel has either a
single- or double-sided.

Properties
• It is soft and fuzzy
• It good stretchability
• It is thick and warm
• It is very durable
• It drapes well
• It is dull-surfaced
• It is slightly fuzzy
• It is scratchy
• It absorbs and releases perspiration quickly.

Uses
• Bathrobes
• Skirts
• Men’s suits
• Trousers
• Flannel is used as blazers, jackets,
trousers, women's suits, men's suits,
shirts, flannel pajamas, flannel pants,
sleeping garments, work gloves, linings,
coverings, and sheets flannel.

Gingham
• This is a medium-weight balanced
plain woven fabric made from dyed
cotton.

DRILL
• A durable fabric of
medium weight. Usually
three harness warp face
left hand twills.
• Made of carded yarns
generally on coarser
counts

Properties
• It is medium to heavy-weight.
• It is strong and durable
• It is breathable
• Has good drapability
• It is tightly woven fabric
• Has high tensile strength
• Various finishes can be imparted to suit
the end use of the fabric

Uses
• The lighter weights drill is used for skirts,
trousers, dresses, jackets, and household items.
• The heavyweight drill is used as work clothes,
industrial uses and wall coverings.
• It is also used as pocketing, shoe linings, book
bindings, corsets, backing for coated fabric,
ticking, banners, slip covers and sportswear.
• Khaki drill is used as uniforms and boat-sail drill
is used as sails for sailing craft

TERRY
• It is a warp pile fabric with loops of
warp threads alternating with
ground threads.
• Terrycloth, terry cloth, terry
towelling, terry, or
simply towelling is a fabric with
loops that can absorb large
amounts of water.
• It can be manufactured
by weaving or knitting, with
weaving on a dobby loom the
predominant commercial method,
having two beams of
longitudinal warp through which
the filler or weft is fired laterally

Properties
• It is very absorbent and comfortable.
• It is easy to launder.
• It does not require ironing.
• It is bulky and thick
USES
 Towels, Bath robes, Beach coverups
 Sportswear, children’s wear
 Draperies
 Exercise wear
 Infants and toddler accessories

DENIM
• Firm, left hand, 2/1
3/1,twill weave of
white filling and
coloured warp,
typically indigo dyed.
• Uses coarse yarn for
weaving
• Generally warp dyed
• Slub yarns can also
be inserted for varied
effects

Properties
• Strong, Durable
• It is for long wearing.
• It resists snags and tears.
USES
 casual style clothing, such as jeans, skirts.
 lightweight jackets and suits.
 shorts, children's clothes.
 for protective clothing.
 In apparel, it is used as jeans, skirts, shorts, light-weight
jackets and suits, uniforms, work-cloths, overalls, sportswear,
caps, evening wear and children's cloth.

CORDUROY
• A ribbed pile fabric with
a high luster and soft
feel.
• Made with extra filling
threads, which floats
over the ground
threads.
• After weaving these
loops threads are cut ,
brushed, forming a pile.

Properties
• It is warm.
• It is durable fabric
• It is thick and stable fabric
• It absorbs and releases moisture quickly.
USES
 Used for better cloths, draperies and upholstery.
 It is commonly made into pants or trousers, jackets
(sports) and shirts.
 Corduroy is also used as skirts, suits, slacks, children's
cloths and dresses.

CHIFFON
• It is a fabric made of
polyester with a soft
and crispy texture.
• High twist yarns are
used for weaving
• It is flimsy in nature
• Made from high twisted
yarn and woven in
gummed condition.

Properties
Highly twisted yarns
Extremely lightweight and Flimsy
It is elegant and sheer fabric.
It is resilient and drapes well
USES
 Used for - special occasion dresses, -
nightgowns,
- linings
 Also used as - eveningwear,
- blouses
- scarves.

Linen
• Is a natural fiber that is derived
from the stem of the flax
plant.
• It is cool and comfortable to
wear; absorbs moisture well;
shrinks when washed; does
not ease well; has a tendency
to wrinkle;
• prone to fraying; resists moths
but is damaged by mildew.

Oxford cloth
• is very similar to pinpoint oxford,
except it uses a slightly heavier
thread and looser weave. It has a
slightly rougher texture but is
more durable than most fabrics.

CAMBRIC
• It is a cloth made of high quality
cotton yarn and given a special
finish.
• This imparts a bright
appearance to the cloth.
• It is a lightweight plain weave
cloth, originally from Cambrai ,
woven in greige, then
bleached and piece-dyed, often
glazed or calendered.
• Initially made from flax, then
cotton in the 19th century, it is
also called batiste

Properties
 Has stiff feel.
 The fabric is - light to medium weight,
-Crispy
 Have high tensile strength
USES
 Home furnishing industries.
 linens, shirtings, handkerchieves and as fabric for lace and
needlework.

Chambray
• is a plain weave fabric. That means it has a similar
construction to broadcloth, though it is generally made
with heavier yarns for a more relaxed or workwear appeal.
• Generally there will be white threads running in the
weft/width direction such that the fabric has an
inconsistent color to it.

Silk
• A textile fiber made from the
natural proteins used by
silkworms and similar insects
to create cocoons.

Single jersey - knits
• Single jersey fabrics are
manufactured by weft
knitting technique
• Here interlooping of
single yarn takes place
• Soft twisted yarns are
used
• It is manufactured on
circular knitting
machine

Properties
High stretchability and elastic recovery
Soft and resilient
High drapability and good fall
Dimensional stability is low
High shrinkage in natural fiber
USES
 Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s , Women’s and
Kids wear
 Used for sports wear
 Used for manufacturing under garments
 Also used for industrial and medical purpose

Double jersey – 1x1 knit rib
• Double jersey fabric is
knitting technique
• Two sets of needles
are used for face and
back knitting
• Can be 1x1 rib, 2x2
rib, 2x1 rib etc
depending on the end
use
• Interlooping of yarn
takes place

Properties
High stretchability and elastic recovery is than single jersey
Reversible type
USES
 Used for leisure wear manufacturing Men’s, Women’s
and Kids wear as accessory fabric
 Used in sports wear for collar and cuff
 Used for manufacturing under garments

Slub
• A thick sport in a yard created by variability in
the twist of the yarn while spinning.

Tulle
• A fine, lightweight netting often used for
gowns and tutus.

Pique - Knits
• Jersey fabric is
manufactured by
warp knitting
technique
• Can be knitted using
any fibre content
• One sets of needles
are used for knitting
• Interlooping of yarn
takes place in vertical
plane

Properties
Stretchability is low and elastic recovery is more than weft
knit single jersey
Non Reversible type
Good Dimensional stability
USES
 Used for leisure wear manufacturing basically Men’s,
Women’s and Kids polo T-shirts
 Used for manufacturing sports wear

Slub jersey - knits
• Single jersey fabrics are
knitting technique
• Here interlooping of slub
yarn takes place
• Soft twisted yarns are used
• It is manufactured on
circular knitting machine
• Fabric dyeing is carried out
in solid colors so that slub
effect is prominent

Fleece - knits
o Available as brushed or
unbrused fleece
o It is a soft napped insulating
synthetic fabric made from
polyethylene terepthalate
(PET) or other synthetic
fibres
o Soft twisted yarns are used
o It is manufactured on circular
knitting machine

Properties
Low stretchability and high elastic recovery
Soft, resilient and thick fabric
Warmth retention
Dimensional stability is high
USES
 Used in casual jackets, hats, sweaters, jogging
bottoms/sweatpants, gym clothes, Hoodies, inexpensive
throw blankets, and high-performance outdoor clothing,

French Terry - knits
o Available as 3 or 4thread
french terry in the market
o Soft twisted coarse yarns are
used
o It is manufactured on flat
knitting machine
o Consists of tuck and miss
structure on the back side
o High GSM fabric
o 100% Cotton

Properties
Soft, resilient and thick fabric
Warmth retention
Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for face
and back
Highly absorbent
USES
 Used in casual jackets, hats, sweaters, jogging
bottoms/sweatpants, gym clothes, Hood.

Grindle jersey - knits
o Soft twisted coarse grindle
yarns are used
knitting machine
o Medium to High GSM fabric
o 100% Cotton

Properties
Soft and resilient fabric
Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for
face and back
Highly absorbent
USES
Kids wear

Yarn dyed stripe jersey - knits
o Fabric is manufactured by
weft knitting technique
o Soft twisted are used
o Can be single jersey or pique
structure
o Classified as auto and feeder
striper
knitting or flat knitting
machine
o Low to medium GSM fabric
o 100% Cotton or blends may
be used

Waffle - knits
o Waffle weave is a reversible,
woven knit fabric with a
raised geometric texture that
looks like honeycomb.
o Can be solid or striper
knitting or flat knitting
machine
o 100% Cotton or blends may
be used

Properties
High stretchability and low elastic recovery
Warmth retention
Non reversible fabric different or same yarns used for face
and back
Good drapability and but poor fall
Highly absorbent
USES
Kids wear

Velour - knits
o Cut or uncut piles are present
on the surface of the fabric
o Velour is a knitted fabric,
allowing it to stretch.
o It combines the stretchy
properties of knits such
as spandex with the rich
appearance and feel of velvet

Properties
High stretchability and elastic recovery
Warmth retention
Non reversible fabric
Good drapability and fall
USES
Kids wear
 Upholstery purpose

RESIST DYE FABRIC
(IN WHICH DYE IS RESIST TO PENETRATE
WHERE DESIGN IS PLANNED)
• CAN BE WAX RESIST – AS BATIK
• TIE N DYE – BY KNOTTING THE FABRIC AT DESIGN
AREA POPULAR IN JAIPUR TEXTILES
• MUD RESIST – BAGH PRINTED & AJARAKH OF
MADHYA PRADESH

RESIST DYE FABRIC
BATIK PRINT BAGHRU / AJARAKH
PRINT
TIE N DYE FABRIC

RESIST DYE FABRIC
TIE N DYE TECHNIQUE MUD RESIST TECHNIQUE

EMBROIDERED FABRIC
MACHINE EMBROIDERED FABRIC

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