2. This is 12th scale
The original book
measures
approximately 12 feet
when opened out, and
this miniature version
measures roughly 12
inches (30 cm).
3. I used •
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a sharp knife
a blunt knife
a metal ruler
Evo-stick wood glue, and a
small paint brush
80gsm HP plotter paper
160 gsm white card
a scrap of white tissue paper
a pair of scissors
a cutting mat
(for this example only) my
canon Pixma home computer
A sharp knife does not tear paper
I need a new knife blade
This project needs
clean, crisp edges.
A “sharp” knife will cut
a straight line without
damaging the paper.
4. First I printed the full strip of pages.
I used HP plotter paper from a
long roll and so I was able to print
a strip that was longer than the
standard A4 size. (I had to adjust
my printer settings to do this)
If you only have A4 paper do not
despair.
There is an A4 pdf, as well as a
12 inch pdf, and I will demonstrate
how to join two short strips later
on.
5. On the strip There are very faint lines on
the joins between some
pages.
These lines indicate where
one set of folds should be.
Before doing anything else,
I scored along these lines
using ruler and a blunt knife.
6. Then I cut along the long
edge of the strip of
pages – at both the top
and the bottom.
Note –
I don’t usually use a cutting board but,
because of the length of the strip, I
used one today.
7. I made the long cuts first because I find that if I cut along
the short ends first this
very often happens.
8. If I hadn’t had a piece of
paper that was over 12
inches (30 cm) long, the
book would not have fitted
on one sheet and I would
have had to join two shorter
strips of paper together –
using tissue paper.
Note –
I tore the tissue paper into roughly
the right shape. I did this because
a torn edge “disappears” better
than a straight-cut edge.
9. I am using Evo-stick wood glue today.
It is not as “wet” as some craft glues, but the tissue paper is still getting pulpy.
I could have left more paper at the top and bottom of the printed strip, and then trimmed it
when it was joined and dry. This might have been easier.
Gluing tissue paper…
I held one (dry) end of the strip
down and wiped my gluey brush
over the other.
10. There are different thickness and types of tissue paper
The tissue paper, I was
using was so thin that I
decided to double it up.
11. This join has to dry completely before it can be
trimmed…
Note –
This has to dry FLAT
NOT FOLDED
12. While the paper was drying I printed out (on 80 gsm
HP plotter paper) the
paper for the rectangles
and the paper for the
book covers.
Then I stuck the
rectangles onto a piece
of 160 gsm card.
13. Note Here is a photo of a slightly
larger book that I made
some years ago.
The paper on the covers is
coated ink-jet paper that has
been glazed for durability.
The colours are brighter and
its appearance is closer to
that of the original book.
14. Then Leaving the rectangles
to dry, I used a blunt
knife to score fold lines
– on all fours sides just outside the
illustration.
15. Then I cut around the coloured border
as neatly as possible and folded
the paper up at the creases.
Then I cut out the (still slightly
damp) rectangles of card and
checked how the two fitted
together.
The fit does not need to exact,
just as close as possible.
Oh dear, blurry photo.
I was doing so well too !
16. When I was happy with the fit
of the paper around the
cardboard, I unfolded
the paper and cut some
of it away from each
corner.
Note –
This is not how you are supposed to
cut corners for binding. I did it this
way because I find the “proper” way is
too bulky at this scale.
17. Then I applied glue to the card
and stuck it to the paper.
I put the glue on the card
because it is easier to hold
damp, gluey card, than it is
to hold damp, gluey paper.
Then I applied a little bit of
glue to the long edges of
paper and folded them over,
as neatly as possible.
19. When finished, the two covers looked like this.
There is just a tiny rim of colour around the illustration.
20. After I had put the covers
under a light weight, I
trimmed the
completely dry
strip of paper and
started to fold the pages
into place.
21. The aim is -
to make
a concertina
book
Previously scored and now folded upwards
Hold edges of upward folds together and then
make a crease for the downward fold
22. When All the creases were in
place, I glued the first page
to the inside of the front
cover and the last page to
the inside of the back cover.
Note –
This time I applied glue to
the page and then stuck it to
the cover.
FRONT
VIEW
23. At first -
the finished book was reluctant to stay shut.
Usually, I would reinforce the creases by using a bone folder.
But I couldn’t find my bone folder so I…
24. … made a small book press with two pieces of thick card and a couple of clips.
This will make sure that the book dries flat.
FRONT
VIEW
WARNING –
Make sure there is
NO WET GLUE
anywhere before doing this
26. What about the back?
Can you see where the pages are joined by the tissue paper?
In real life I can feel the paper and the join, but it is not immediately visible.
It was difficult to make it show up in the photograph.
27. Afterthought
The plotter paper is beautifully smooth and very white,
but it might be a nice idea to age the back of the print,
so that it wasn’t so starkly white.
I would do this before printing the book.
