This presentation highlights the glorious Mughal Era(1526-1748) costume,textile, ornament and it's impact on today's fashion.Detail description about of men's clothing ,women's clothings with accessories that affected the fashion world with it's richness and intricacy.
2. Empire
MUGALUnfolding fashion of
Mugal Empire
By Richa Parashar
Mugal empire played an important
role in increasing the richness of
Indian textile and costume. Mugal
emperors( 1526-1857) were pas-
sionate about painting, jewellery
,architecture,Poetry.This presena-
tion highlights the costume ,textile,
ornaments ad it’s effect of in todays
fashion world.
Costume: Textile: Jewellery
MUGAL EMPIRE
3. Men’s clothing
Mughal clothing refers to clothing devel-
oped by the Mughals in the 16th, 17th and
18th centuries throughout the extent of
their empire in the Indian subcontinent.
It was characterized by luxurious styles
and was made with muslin, silk, velvet
and brocade.Elaborate patterns includ-
ing dots, checks, and waves were used
with colors from various dyes including
cochineal, sulfate of iron, sulfate of cop-
per and sulfate of antimony
Characterstics
MUGALEMPIRE
Fig01:TypicalMugalmenclothing
Jama,Pajama,Patka,turban
Fig02:PortraitofPrinceKhurram
(ShahJahan),Mughalperiod
4. MUGALEMPIRE
Men’s clothing
The Mughals (a mix of Turkish and Persian in-
fluences) took shape during the reign of Akbar
and Jahangir.
Mughal costume for men consisted of the
1) jama, a garment that was fitted till the
waist and worn crosswise and fastened at the
side with a lower skirt like portion that fell
below the knees 2) the tight paijamas for the
legs
3) the patka (sash) which here is secured
with a jewelled belt
4) the chadar aka shawl
5) the turban. The jama and chador were
usually fine muslin, fine enough to see un-
derlying jewellery.
Other clothing types included: “peshwaz”
style robes and “yalek” robes
Costumedetails
Fig04:Themultiplesidetiesof
jamaortunicandflatheeled
withapointedfrontendand
withoutabackstrap
Fig03:Pagristyles-"Chau-goshia",
infoursegments,thedomeshaped
qubbedar,kashiti,dupalli,embroi-
derednukkadar,andembroidered
andvelvetmandi
6. Fig09:Mughalkundan
necklace
Fig08:Persianbluemeena-
karinecklaceinfloralmotif
Women were known to have as many
as 8 complete sets of jewelry. Popular
ornaments included 2 inch wide arm-
lets worn above the elbows, bracelets
or pearls at the wrist stacked high
enough to impede access to the pulse,
lots of rings (with the mirror ring
worn on the right thumb customary
for nearly all the inhabitants of the
Zenana), strings of pearls (as many as
15 strings at a time), metal bands or
strings of pearls at the bottom of their
legs, and ornaments hanging in the
middle of the head in the shape of star,
sun, moon, or a flower
Women’s fashion
Women also adorned a variety of head or-
naments such as Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra,
Siphul, Tikka and Jhumar
Mugalornaments
JEWELLERY
Fig12:HeadornamentssuchasBind-
uli,Kotbiladar,TikkaandJhumar
Fig11:Mor-Bhanwar,Bali,Jhum-
kas,KanphoolandPipalpatraor
papalpattiareearringsfromthe
period.
Fig11:Handornament
7. They wore long, loose jama like
ribs, which had full sleeves and opened
at the front. Underneath, an ankle
length vest was worn and the ensemble
was completed with a veil which cov-
ered the hair and most of the face .Dur-
ing the cold season, qabas (coat) made
of Kashmir shawl cloth was worn as
overcoats .Outside the harem they were
usually clothed in the burqa ,which cov-
ered the body from head to feet leaving
only a slit around the eyes
MUGALEMPIRE
Characterstics
Women’s costume
The clothes worn by Muslim women during
the Mughal rule were not much different to
the men.
Fig13:IdealizedPortraitoftheMughal
EmpressNurJahan
Fig14:ThegarmentsofMughalla-
diesweremadeofthefinestmus-
lins,silks,velvetsandbrocades.
8. CONTEMPORARY
TodaysMugal
Women’s clothing
The Mughal inspiration could be see work-
ing into modern ensembles.
Figure15:Modelwearinganarkaliduring
afashionshow
Fig16:Thepaasa,orthejhoomar
paasa,isatraditionalpieceofjewel-
lerywornonthehead.
the anarkali as a garment was identi-
fied as a long flowy kurta that was fit-
ted around the bust. The fitting around
the empire line and subsequent flare in
the garment was revived in the 1960s.
The paasa is defined by its pearled
strings that carry a pendant-like struc-
ture. Usually, it is worn on the left side
of the head and is tucked into the hair
in a way that it covers the temple.
9. JEWELLERY
MugalOrnaments
Men’s fashion
Ornaments are worn not only for the pur-
pose of attracting the attention of others
around but also as a distinctive mark of
status, rank and dignity.
The most important accessory for an
Indian man was his turban, which pro-
claimed his status, religion, caste and
region of origin. To submit a turban to
anybody was a sign of total subjugation
and the removal of a turban was the most
humiliating punishment that could be
inflicted on any man.
Fig:The ornaments, footwear,
head-wear and of Mughal period.
Fig:Jewellery for
decoraticng turban
10. Pai-Jama: This is a compound of two
Persian words “pai” meaning legs or
feet and “jama” meaning cover. Draw-
string pai-jamas have been worn in
Persia since very ancient times. From
about 1530 onwards, several types of
pai-jama were worn in India.
Churidar: Cut on the bias, much long-
er than the leg, so that folds fall at the
ankle, worn by men and women.
Shalwar: A triangularly cut pai-jama
with a quilted band at the ankle (pon-
cha) worn by men and women.
Dhilja: A woman’s pai-jama made of
silk, cut wide and straight.
Garara: A woman’s pai-jama cut loose
to the knee and adding gathers.
Farshi: A woman’s pai-jama cut with-
out folds to the knees, and then gath-
ered into pleats to the floor.
Costumedetails
MUGALEMPIRE
Women’s clothing
ladies wore multiple layers of clothing, with a tight
fitting bodice that stopped short of the navel.The
length hit the knees or lower, the waist fastened
closely, and the neckline was in a “V” shape.
Fig:Costume of women in Mugal court
11. Ornamented shoes with turned up
toes (Jhuti) were Persian in style, and
were worn by men and women. Some
other footwear were:
The Kafsh, worn by nobles and kings
The Charhvan, with a curling tongue
fixed to the toe
The Salim Shahi, decorated in gold
The Khurd Nau, very lightweight,
made of kid leather
Lucknow was most famous for it’s
footwear in Mughal times, and the art
of Aughi, embroidery on leather and
velvet footwear, was very popular.
MUGALEMPIRE
MugalFootwear
Men’s fashion
People prefer wearing them on traditional oca-
sions like weddings. Along with traditional
dresses like sherwani or kurta pajama, jutti form
the quintessential accessory.
Fig:juttiformenwithex-
tendedcurvedtip,ornokh.
Fig:OrnamentedJuttidur-
ingMugalperiodFig:IndianMojarisPair
12. Jackets: Jackets over kurtas and saris have
become a smart, chic choice for women
across the nation. Historians across the
country and paintings from the era suggest
that empress Mumtaz was extremely fond
of the trend. She was often painted wearing
a long sleeved kurta under a short-sleeved
jacket. The trend of carrying jackets over
the usual kurtas and anarkalis is hence often
credited to Mumtaz herself. Historians as-
sert that jackets were not meant for women
earlier and crafting these jackets that were
rich in fabric and opulent in nature was a
brainchild of the Mughals, notably Mumtaz.
Modern twist
by Indian designers
MUGALEMPIRE
Modern twist given to traditional jacket
Men’s jacket inspired by Akbar’s jacket
13. ShrutiHaasanwalktherampfoMughal
IndiaShowbyAnushreeReddy
Reynu Taandon takes the ramp accompanied by showstopper
Richa Chadha
This new collection juxtaposes the traditions of the
Mughal era with the taste of a modern day
Ethnicity is kept intact, fusing it with mod-
ern construction to make the ensemble fit
for a modern bride. Fine fabrics such as rich
velvet and Benarasi as the base for lehengas
and anarkali suits has been used. Intense
threadwork embroidery has been meticu-
lously worked upon. Tulle and cancan has
been used to create a lacy, floating look.
Deep colours like burgundy, tomato red and
hot pink dominate this line. Cocktail saris
use shimmer chiffon, bejewelled borders and
Renaissance motifs all over as the jaal. De-
tailed bejewelled bustiers have been coordi-
nated with the saris and lehengas.
FASHION
RELIVINGMUGAL
