The personal diary of my grandfather, Rev H.R. 'Harry' Cooke of Devon, chaplain to the forces 1915 - 1919, in France, Salonica (Greece) and Mesopotamia (now Iraq)

1. Some Comments on the Great War Diary of Rev. H.R Cooke, M.C.
Chaplain to the Forces, 1915 - 1919
Henry Cooke volunteered for Army service in 1914 when he was a curate at Torquay, Devon. He was called
to report to the War Office in May 1915 and sent the same day to France. He seems to have had no
significant training or instruction but was fortunate to have a day's overlap with a predecessor at his first post
at a military hospital in France ! He had some background as a cadet in the 03.C. at his boarding (public)
school a dozen years earlier (and one included photograph shows him in that ~'rank" and "role").
After some months of active chaplain's duties in France he went with the Royal Artillery 98, 99 and 100
Brigades (equivalent to modern Batteries) to Salonika in northern Greece in November 1916. He was made
Ship's Adjutant of the ship that carried 10 officers, 175 men and 575 horses.
He landed at Salonika on 12/12/1915, his 30th Birthday and by a remarkable coincidence sailed from
Salonika on his 32nd birthday (page 47) for (eventually) Mesopotamia.
He carried out chaplain's and associated duties close to the front line of the "Salonica Front" against the
Bulgars and Germans (with one home leave) for two years. He was awarded the Military Cross in January
1918 for "valuable services", having been mentioned in despatches twice previously (page 49). The diary
refers only indirectly to his particular actions concerned: see "excitements" on page 52.
He sailed through the Suez Canal to Basra. After base and hospital work there and at Baghdad, he was posted
to the Cavalry Division (page 53) which involved a lot of movements and actions against the enemy. He was
wounded (and companions killed) in April 1918 (page 55) but returned to duty a month later. He visited the
Archbishops at Mosul (page 63). He returned to England in January 1919 and was presented with his M.C. at
Buckingham Palace in May 1919.
His subsequent career is noted briefly on the Summary page of the Diary, M.RC.

2. Summary of the Diary
April 1915 Chaplain at 10 General Hospital, Rouen, France
September 1915 Chaplain to 12 Field Ambulance, France
October 1915 Posted as Chaplain with 22nd Division, France
November 1915 Sailed with 98, 99, 100 and 101 Brigades, Royal Field Artillery from Marseilles.
December 1915 Landed at Salonica, Greece
December 1915 Chaplain with the Gunners on active operations on the Salonica Front against the
to February 1917 Germans and Bulgarians.
February 1917 To England for leave.
to April 1917
April 1917 to With the Gunners on the Salonica Front.
December 1917 Twice Mentioned in Despatches (see entry on January 11, 1918).
Awarded the M.C., published in London Gazette dated January 1, 1918 (see
entry on February 27, 1918).
December 1917 Sailed from Salonica and through the Suez Canal.
January 1918 Landed at Basra, Mesopotamia.
March 1918 to Chaplain with the Cavalry Division and the 13th
Hussars on active operations.
November 1918.
April 29, 1918 Wounded
January 1919 Returned to England, having accepted the offer by the Prince of Wales of the
appointment of Vicar of Princetown with Postbridge and Dartmoor.
Subsequently
May 15, 1919 Attended at Buckingham Palace for presentation of the M.C.
1919 to 1924 Vicar of Princetown with Postbridge and Dartmoor.
1924 to 1939 Vicar of King's Teignton, Devon.
1939 to 1956 Vicar of Seaton, Devon. Appointed Prebendary of Exeter Cathedral.
November 11,1968 Died, aged 82. The 50th
Anniversary of the end of World War 1

3. Description of the main Photographs at end of diary
Page 1
Top left: Year 1900 (approx) at St. Johns in the uniform of the O.T.C. (Officers Training Corps).
Top right: November 23rd
1915, ready to embark on S.S. Eloby at Marseilles for voyage to Salonika. He was
appointed Ship's Adjutant. On board were 575 horses and mules as well as men, guns and ammunition.
Bottom left and right: 1916-1917 during the Salonika Campaign. This included active fighting against Bulgar
and German troops.
Page 2
Top left and right: 1916-1917 during the Salonika Campaign. This included active fighting against Bulgar and
German troops.
Bottom left: 1919 in Army Chaplain's uniform (with wound stripes) before demobilisation.
Bottom right: May 19th
1919 outside Buckingham Palace after being presented with the medal of the Military
Cross, accompanied by his sister.
Other photographs in this diary were not taken by H. R. Cooke but were added 2013

4. DIARY OF H.R. COOKE CHAPLAIN TO THE FORCES
10, GENERAL HOSPITAL ROUEN
12th FIELD AMBULANCE 4th DIVS,
22nd DIVISION E.Q., R.F.A.
Home Address: Ipplepen Vicarage, Newton Abbot.
May 12 Reported for duty at War Office & ordered embark same
day arrived Southampton 4.10 p.m. & sailed same night
by S.S. Normania arrived safely at Havre 10 a.m. after a
smooth passage.
May 13 Reported at H.Q. near the Hotel de Ville, sent to Hotel
Tortoni - comfortable billet & a number of young officers
all very friendly - walked round town being Ascension
Day the town was crowded.
May 14 At 10 a.m. received orders to proceed to No. 10 General Hospital Rouen by 6.19 train, journey
slow, arrived Rouen 10 p.m. and spent night at Hotel de France.
May 15 Proceeded with kit on transport wagon to the Hospital & reported to Lieut Colonel E. W. Slayter
O.C. Very fortunate my predecessor (Rev. Banken-Jone) did not leave till next day so I was able
to get a great deal of useful information from him.
May 16 Celebration 7 a.m. in Church tent (altar & cross & flowers & lights),
11 a.m. Matins & my first address.
2 p.m. & 4 p.m. funerals (see other book)
6 p.m. United Service, Rev. JT. Bird (1st Class Military Chaplain)
Presbyterian - took service & I spoke - quite good congregations.
May 17 Went into Rouen - Cathedral with the beautiful spire - a town of fine old churches - in the
afternoon made my first visits to the wards (10 & the special) evening heavy rain.
May 18 In the morning went into Rouen & explored some more of the wonderful old churches 2 p.m.
funeral, later visited some more of the wards.
5.15 p.m. Concert by party from London.
May 19 Visited wards in the evening at 6 p.m. Voluntary United Service quite a good congregation.
Inoculated for second time.
May 20 Several serious cases reported to me - visited them & wrote
a good many letters for men.
May 21 Went in to H.Q. with Padre Bird - visited various serious
cases & wrote letters home for some.
May 22
May 1915
S.S. Normania
Hotel Tortoni

5. May 23 Whitsunday 20 at 7 a.m. H.C. & good congregations throughout day -
called up in night to see a dying Canadian boy.
May 24 Pilgrimage Day of Joan of Arc, so proceeded in the morning to Bon
Secours - tremendous crowds.
May 25 In morning Chaplains Meeting, in afternoon busy in the wards - tea
with Ivy Taunton in No. 12 Stationary. Evensong 6 p.m. small
congregation given H.L.I. to look after.
May 26, 27 Usual programme of visiting wards - many wounded coming in -
500 in 36 hours.
May 28 Afternoon off - went up Rouen Cathedral spire nearly to the top - but found my head would not
stand it. Inspected the glorious churches of S. Ouen & Maclou.
May 29 Beautiful weather -
May 30 Trinity Sunday 12 H.C., large congregation at 11 & good at 6 p.m.
May 31 Went with Padre Bird to Bon Secour, in morning, afternoon visited wards as usual.
June 1 – 6 Very hot spell - not many wounded in hospital.
June 5 Buried a German prisoner at St. Etienne* rode horseback & back through the pine forest. [*du
Rouvray – 4 miles South on West bank]
June 6 H.C. 15 Congregations not large - very few walking patients. After 6 p.m. Evensong went to
the Military Prison at 'La Belle Nouvelle' & took service for a large number of English soldiers -
a curious crowd in their large stone prison hall but they joined very heartily in the service.
June 7 Went with Ivy T. down the river - very hot
June 8 Meeting of Chaplains.
June 11 Visited prison.
June 13 15 H.C. - still not very many men in hospital so
congregation not large.
7 p.m. service at prison.
June 14 Long walk with Padre Bird & Dr. MacDonald to Petit
Couronne to see Corneilles house then on to Grand
Couronne where we had tea & the liquid never to be
forgotten [C.17th
dramatist Pierre Corneilles]
June 15 7 a.m. ascended Rouen Cathedral spire to the top
with 4 other men. 8 a.m. H.C. for Chaplains & later meeting. Afternoon - as usual visited
wards.
June 16 Walk in evening with Ivy.
June 17/18 As on other days visited words.
June 19 Played cricket for hospital helped beat No. 3 Infantry Base. Saw first aeroplane in France.
Pierre Corneille's house
May / June 1915
Rouen Cathedral

6. June 20 12 at 7 a.m. H.C. fair congregations throughout day, in the evening took service at La Belle
Nouvelle Prison.
June 21 Received Weekly Dispatch tobacco gift - called at Convalescent Camp & inspected Indian
Hospital.
Adult Baptism - George McLean Page 2nd Batt. East Kent - age 41. Matron & Sister witnesses.
June 22 Attended weekly Chaplains meeting — afternoon tea with nurses - introduction of tennis -
Evensong & fair congregation.
June 23 Met Frank Herson in town on way up again to front. Had tea with Dr. MacDonald in town after
visiting wards.
June 26 Most successful picnic given by Lieut. Satow. We - officers & sisters drove in motor charabancs
into forest of S Etienne - I had a stroll before tea & then a very good tea. After which we had a
series of races, with the help of Sister Hessy I won first prize in one race. We arrived home after
a most enjoyable drive about 8 p.m.
June 27 Usual services - quite a good Sunday - tired to sing canticles in morning for first time - the choir
did fairly well.
June 29 Usual Chaplains meeting - in afternoon a stroll with Sister H. M. in forest - picked a large
bundle of bull-rushes.
July l All the week visited wards - during this month June & beginning of July - all the hospitals were
very empty – very few serious cases but a certain number of sick & a few "tired". Apres midi
went-with Ivy to St Adrien [on E. bank opposite St. Etienne – very tiny place] - saw the quaint
old stone-hewn church had tea & crossed river to St. Etienne & back to town Ivy to camp & I to
the “Omnia" dinner with Padre McLean - (Presbyterian) reinforcement camp – Turnbull from 11
Com Stationary & Broadbent - after dinner we went to the station and saw off a large number of
men going up to the front.
4 July Services not very largely attended as there were comparatively few in hospital - but quite a
happy Sunday.
July 6 Attended Chaplains Meeting.
July 7 Met Sister H. in town & went round the roof of St Ouen
Lieut. Hobson organised a very good nigger minstrel concert.
July 9 Had horse at 7 a.m. & rode with Padre Turnbull of No. 11
Hospital thro' the forest to Grand Essart thence to Grand
Couronne (8 a.m.) [@7 miles to S.W. of Rouen, between folds
of the Seine] breakfast in café coffee in bowls with soup
spoons. Rode home by the main road to Petit Couronne & so
by forest & manoir le grand home - a most enjoyable trip.
July 9 & following days
Each day visited wards but at this period the hospital (like all
others at Rouen) was extra-ordinary empty.
July 11 Quite a good Sunday. Men turned up well & orderlies singing
getting much better. Miss Wotton (St. John Ambulance)
accepted duties of organist. Prison service as usual at 7 p.m.
number here too were smaller.
June / July 1915

7. July 12 & following - usual programme of visiting. One funeral.
July 13 Chaplains weekly meeting.
July 14 Another Miss Lena Ashwell concert - terrific storm of rain - Ivy came over to the concert.
July 15 A ride before breakfast with Turnbull.
July 16 - 28 Nothing of particular note took place - visited wards each afternoon still slack in numbers – a
fair number of sick of all kinds & of all regiments but not many wounded - hospital organised
cricket & tennis both a great success – with help of matron & Miss Casserley furnished Church
Marquee better - dark red frontal & dossal, brass cross & candlesticks & vases. Mrs. Whitehead
sent out two good kneelers. Mortuary also improved - violet frontal & pall & cross & picture.
July 27 After Chaplains meeting went with Turnbull & Blackburn & 12 Station for a tram ride to the
country north of Rouen – had lunch at small café and walk into country – heavy rain so
sheltered in cottage till able to come back dry.
July 28 Went with Dr. Macdonald & saw the field bakeries & motor transport repair depot.
July 29 Appointed to see off reinforcement trains - each carriage supplied with papers when men in
train we go round to each and give tobacco or cigarettes, testament or prayer cards & speak a
few serious words, astonishing response of men to religion.
July 31 3 men of my prison killed by motor lorry. I buried one at Bois Guillaume on Aug. 3. 59 [@3
miles to the North]
Aug. l Usual Sunday Services; in the evening prisoners on strike through having too many bags to do
Aug. 4 1st Anniversary of outbreak of War -
H.C. 6.30 a.m. quite a good number
Litany 11.30 a.m. a representative congregation.
United Evening intercession service
6 p.m. Crowded Central Service in Y.M.C.A. hut 27th division - two bands - quite 1100 men
present.
Sore men off at station till midnight & arrived home 1 a.m. delayed throu' Cavendish Club lorry
repeatedly breaking down.
Aug 6 Turnbull borrowed car & took self & Danvers & Blackburn through Elbeuf to Robert the
Devils Castle [at Moulineaux to S. W.] - a grand view then to La Bouille for lunch [further W.
on Seine], left by 12.30 steamer to Rouen.
Aug. 8 Sunday Services quite encouraging.
Aug. 9 This week more men began to arrive, surgical & medical.
The Matron Miss Mark leaves for Boulogne.
Train work most days.
Aug. 10 Scotch funeral for Turnbull
Aug. 10 Visited wards as usual each day - most interesting
work.
Aug 14 Stroll with P intended to pick blackberries, but too wet
so walked to Petit Couronne to Corneille house, had
"tea" at small café kept by woman who had lost her Robert the Devil's Castle
July / August 1915

8. husband at Marne, she very horrified at our eating bread
and butter with "citronade".
Aug. 15 Quite a good number of men at early celebration. At 11
o'clock heavy rein interfered with sermon - could not be
heard & in evening a counter attraction a fire at No. 12 .
Stationary.
Aug 16 More men on the serious list than for some time.
Aug. 17 Usual weekly meeting of Chaplains rode down with
Turnbull in car.
Aug. 19 Visit by the Bishop of Birmingham who went round the
wards and admired the Church.
Aug. 20 The Bishop celebrated in 3rd echelos Chapel, and
afterwards we met him at breakfast. Later I went with
Danvers of 12 Stat. to see the crypt of S Gervais' Church
Aug. 22 Padre Bird away on leave so I had camp to myself for
Sunday, resumed the evening service at prison which I
had dropped for 2 Sundays on account of the strike. On
this occasion it went with a
Aug. 23 Combined “outing” of padres. Turnbull borrowed the Consul's car & Staveley drove his own
and between the 2 we took 17 which included 2 French interpreters. We started about 10.30
a.m. from outside Post Office and drove first to St. Martin de Boscherville a fine old Norman
Church but very much spoilt by the modern colouring inside.
We then drove by way of Duclair to Jumieges [@ 11 miles to W.]. The Abbey is a wonderful
and picturesque ruin. We went all through and round it and some of us tried the underground
passages. Lunch was taken in the open air in front of the Village inn and we enjoyed a very
good omelette. After lunch we inspected the parish church and then drove borne.
Aug. 24 Work went on in hospital much the same as usual. I visited the wards daily.
Aug. 29 Change in Services through the rudeness of Padre Bird the Presbyterian Minister. I took the
opportunity of giving up the United Evening Service on Sunday and had Evensong at 5.30 p.m.
instead. The change proved a great success. This Sunday I had also to take the Service for
Royal Flying Corp. Car called for me at 12 and drove me out about 14 miles to R.F.C.
Workshops where I had an open air service. At prison in evening C.O. made a new rule no
work during service time and extra time after for finishing sacks. This was the first Sunday on
which the new Church Tent was used. By this time the Church was reverently furnished red
altar cloth given by Miss Mark and worked by Miss Casserley tall rood screens behind altar -
new credence table - mats given by Mrs. Whitehead. Also we hired an American organ instead
of a piano and found it easier to sing to.
Sept. 3 Heavy rain but a busy day. 12.30 spoke to labourers at Mrs. Williams coffee stall in the docks,
quite a crowd.
4 o'clock saw off troop train.
6 p.m. Evensong.
7 p.m. Boy Scouts rally at Boys Brigade hut under Rev. Staveley, some French boys also there,
8 p.m. saw off another train.
Sept 1 Sports for all hospitals on race course - quite a success - 10 did quite well. I pulled in the Tug of
August / September 1916August / September 1915
St. Martin de Boscherville

9. War, we beat 12 Station after 3 tremendous pulls.
Sept. 5 Usual Sunday Services also a Confirmation Class on this and following
days.
Sept. 6 Change in weather beautiful day - went with Danvere and Broadbent to
tea at Bon Secours [@2 miles to S.E.]. Colonel Slayter announces his
promotion - farewell party at night.
Sept. 7 Work runs on much the same - visits daily to the wards
Sept. 8 Farewell walk with Turnbull also Danvers, Broadbent. Started 11 a.m.
tram to town and on down the river to terminus, walked to Canteleu
fine old church with some really good modern glass, lunch at hotel,
omelettes cider and bread and café au lait, then on road to S Martin de Bosherville about 1 mile
turned left through forest, and so for about 7 or 8 miles all way thro forest till we arrived on
Seine nearly opposite Robert the Devil's Castle, turned left to Val de la Haye [on W. bank of
Seine, @ 6 miles S.W. of Rouen], just time for cider and caught boat back to Rouen.
Sept. 11 Visit from Deputy Chaplain General - Bishop Gwynne 8 a.m. H.C. address and intercessions
breakfast and private interviews. In afternoon packed for and saw off at station Rev. W.
Hogarth Turnbull my great friend, going to 27th DIV. In the evening 8.30 p.m. Service of
welcome to D.C.G. in 27th DIV. Y.M.C.A. Hut.
Sept. 12 Still lovely weather a fair number at H.C. 7 a.m, other services an usual - could not attend
combined parade for D.C.G. at 11, nor Confirmation at 7 p.m. as my own services on.
Sept. 13 ff Hospital work as usual, also seeing off reinforcement, trains. More Chaplains sent up. Turnbull
leaves for 81st Field Amb., also Broadbent & Blackburn.
Sept. 22 Ordered to join 12th Field Ambulance 4th Division.
Departs Rouen for front line
Sept. 23 Left Rouen 7.45 p.m. - very slow and tedious journey arrived at Abbeville [lies N.W. of Amiens]
3.30 a.m. on siding till morning, helped some sisters in next compartment by getting them hot
water etc. train due to leave for Douillens [20 miles E. of Abbeville]. 8.45 a.m, - left finally at
1.45 a.m., arrived at railhead Acheux [15 miles N.E. from Amiens – the Somme] 9.30 p.m., and
walked to Forceville [1 ½ miles to S.E.] and reported arrival to C.O. Billeted in local curé's
house, I am in small downstairs room - borrowed stretcher to sleep on and next day fetched kit
from station.
Saturday 25 Walked round with Rev. Holme - United Board man reported to C.O. at Acheux, and in
morning to my own senior King. Pouring rain.
Sunday 26th
8a.m. H.C. in village schoolroom C.O. present.
9 a.m. parade service for ambulance in an
ancient barn.
10 a.m. parade service for Royal Irish in a field.
3 O'clock parade service for 5th entrenching
battalion in orchard behind their billet.
5 p.m. parade service for another entrenching
battalion at Varennes [1 1/2 miles to S of
Forceville] rode over on horseback - weather
better. - guns and aeroplanes busy tremendous
rumours in the air.
Bishop Gwynne
Mailly Maillet
September 1915

10. Monday 27th
Rode over to see Major King Senior Chaplain,
quite a nice horse allotted to me.
Tuesday 28th
First visit to trenches. Rode out with Lieut Chene
- Sanitary Officer through Hédauville [1½ miles
S. of Forceville] to Mailly Maillet [3 miles to NE]
where we left motor lorry. Then on to
Auchonvillers, visited our advance dressing
station. This village a wreck. Here we entered the
communication trench 2nd Avenue and go down
to the front line. Through this we (I and Rev.
Holmes - United Board man) went for about 9
miles most interesting walk but quiet only our
own shells and snipers on each side. We gave
away cigarettes and writing paper and talked to men and at 2 points had short services. We left
trenches by a trench which brought us into the ruined village of Harmel [2 miles to SE of
Auchenvilliers] where we had lunch. Then on by long narrow communication trench to Mesnil
[1 mile to SW] another ruined village on top of a big hill, from the ruined chateau one could see
the German trenches stretched out below. From here we walked to Martinsart and picked up
lorry and so home. News of big Allied advance and successes.
Wed. 29th
Walked to Léalvillers [¾ mile to SW of Acheux] to see rest camp back through Acheux. In the
evening service in schoolroom. Saw again Page whom I baptised at Rouen.
Thursday 30th
At 8 a.m. saw a most interesting sight, a fight between English and German aeroplanes.
German first shelled by our anti aircraft guns then chased by one of our aeroplanes, both fired at
each other with machine guns and German was hit, the machine fell near Hedauville and both
airmen were killed. I walked over after breakfast and saw the remains and talked to our two
men, Capt. Reece and Flight Sergeant Hargreaves.
Visited hospital as usual.
Oct. 1st
Buried the two Germans in Forceville Cemetery.
Rode to Acheux to field cashier at 5 p.m. buried Pte. Jones of Royal Irish.
Oct. 2 Weekly meeting of Chaplains at Bertrancourt. [2 miles to NE of Acheux]
Oct. 3 Celebration of Holy Communion in Village
Sunday schoolroom at 8 a.m., parade for ambulance in barn at 9 a.m., parade for Kings Own, 127
Column, 128 Waggon line Howitzer, 12th Brigade transport at 10 a.m. in a field,
3 p.m. service for entrenching battal. in orchard,
5 p.m. entrenching batts at Verennes,
6 p.m. service for our own unit in school room.
Had arranged parade for Monmouths but it had to be postponed on account of inspection.
Oct 5 Horse at 11 a.m. rode to Acheux about a servant, then on to Varennes to try and arrange service
for Monmouths. On to Mailly Maillet to lunch with Williamson C. of E. Chaplain of 12th
Brigade, walked on to Auchonvillers called at Dressing Station and then went on to inspect the
ruined village - church etc., a pathetic but well kept little cemetery for British and French
soldiers, rode home in pouring rain.
Oct 6th
Walked after lunch to Mesnol dressing station with Lieut. Dwyer R.A.M.C. through
Englebelmer [2 ½ miles E. of Forceville] At 6 p.m. Voluntary service in schoolroom.
Oct 7th
Rode after lunch with Padre Holmes to Albert, the town was a most sad sight, in some parts as
badly destroyed as Ypres. Bought some postcards at a little shop the only one open in a ruined
Forceville Cemetery
September / October 1915

11. street, and had tea at the only hotel still open. The most
notable sight was the great bronze image of the Virgin and
child still hanging from the top & of the church tower
although the tower was half shot away, (remember also the
hardware shop).
Oct 8 Walked with Dwyer after lunch to Auchonvillers, quite a
lot of strafing going on from our own guns and the others
and the machine guns.
Oct 10 Celebration at 7 a.m. and 8 a.m. in schoolroom. Parade
for Ambulance at 9 in "Hippodrome", at Varennes at 10.30
a.m. for Royal lrish Fusiliers. 3 p.m. for entrenching
battalion, Kings Own Transport, and other small units in
Hippodrome, 5 p.m. Verennes for L.B.R.E. 6 p.m.
Voluntary Service in schoolroom, tackled afterwards by a
boy suffering from religious mania who objected to my
teaching on salvation and the final perseverance of the
saints.
Oct 13 Rode in motor with Capt. Gray to Amiens, we were very interested in the cathedral, the interior
carving was very grand, the outside was rather spoilt by the piles of sandbags.
Oct. 14 Very foggy but mild - held a service for Labour R.E. at Varennes at 7 p.m. Still quiet on our bit
of front only an occasional wounded man brought in.
16th
Saturday Lunch with officers of Royal Irish Fusiliers in their trenches, an excellent lunch. I spent
afternoon in the front line trenches, at one point within 30 yards in the Redan had a periscope
shot away quite near me, climbed down and crawled through a sap to a mine crater within 15
yards of the Germans a notice board contained “Watch & Pray”. Later had tea with another lot
of officers and so home.
Sunday A very busy and happy day - Celebrations at 7 a.m. and 8 a.m.
Parade for Ambulance at 9 a.m., Parade for Essex and 7 other units in field at 10 a.m.,
Parade for S Lancs at Varennes at 11 a.m. and celebration after when C.O. and a good number
of officers and men were present. 3 p.m. service for L.B.R.E. also at Varennes and 6 p.m.
Voluntary Service for Ambulance and Village with a crowded congregation. On my return at 8
p.m. found orders to proceed 22nd Division on Monday.
Monday 18th
Motored through Corbie to Guillancourt H.Q. of 22nd and was attached to Divisional
Ammunition at Hangard - a tiny little village, mess consisted of Colonel Bittlestone, an
Adjutant, a medical officer and French interpreter.
Tuesday Rode to H.Q. through Marcelclave, Aubercourt, Wrennecourt and was informed of my district -
my care was to be the charge of all Divisional troops scattered over a large area between
Hangard and the actual batteries 15 miles away.
Wednesday Rode round to different centres - quite a nice horse a dark cob. At Hangard about 500 of D.A.C.
and about same number of horses and mules, at Wrennecourt a Field Ambulance.
Thursday Rode to H.Q. to arrange Sunday Services, but found everything uncertain - hurried home -
troops and artillery all on move.
Friday & Saturday - Oct. 22, 23
Beautiful weather - pretty country - more hilly and wooded - saw good many French soldiers
and artillery on the move.
October 1915
Albert Church and Golden Virgin

12. Saturday - Rode over to neighbouring village to
report to Rev. Pelly Senior Chaplain At S.W.B.
Billeted for these days in house of a H, Lambert
a coal dealer nice old couple.
Sunday Everything uncertain - all units on move - so
Oct. 25 only one Church Parade for D.A.C. and
100th Brigade P.F.A., quite a large number on
parade, I took the service from a waggon,
Colonel Bittlestone read the lesson. In
afternoon rode over to Corbie to call on 3 nurses
at 28 Casualty Clearing Station, passed through
Villers Brettonaux, where H.Q. were on this
date, met young. Mills of Newton Abbot of
S.W.B. in the street.
Wednesday All the Column removed at short notice to make room for French troops to the little villages of
Cachy & Gentelles. H.Q. were billeted in large house belonging to A. Jouancoux - Depute de la
Somme. His wife - very nice but a great talker - managed his wine business while he was away
at Paris. I slept in a small empty house near.
Thursday and following days:
Rode round to neighbouring villages and on Saturday arranged services
Sunday Oct. 31
Church parade at Gentelles at 8 a.m. - cold morning. Rode in rain to Villers Bretoneux, I had
parade for 100th Brigade in a large hall. Parade at Fouilloy [3 miles S. of Corbie, 3 miles N. of
Villers Bretoneux] fell through on account of rain but I had a certain number of 98th in a small
concert hall. Rode back to Cachy for lunch and walked afterwards to Villers and had a service
for 99th in a large barn adjoining the Chateau.
The whole of this week we lived in uncertainty not knowing where we should be tomorrow.
Nov. 1 Walked into Villers Bretoneux - being All Saints Day all the people were going to the Cemetery.
I also went and visited a large grave where about 100 French soldiers were buried , which was
decorated with flowers and flags.
Nov. 2 & 3 Rough wet weather but we had a good roof over us. The district around appears good farming
country growing corn and beetroot.
Nov. 5 Moved with Headquarters to Villers Bretoneux the house in which we were billeted was a large
one and actually contained a bathroom - signed passes all evening. Bennett (my batman) paid
up to this date.
Nov. 6 Journey to Marseilles
Left for Longeau near Amiens at 9 a.m. and
entrained there at 1.25. A long journey via
Paris outskirts, Melun, Montereau, Dijon,
Macon, Lyon, Pierrelatte, Arles, Marseille -
arriving there at 10 a.m. on Monday 8th.
Detraining took a long time and I did not arrive
with No. 1 Section at Camp of La Valentine till
nearly 5 p.m., camp was about 9 kilometres
outside the town, and in a most picturesque
spot. Our tents were Indian ones. Weather
lovely and warm, bright sunshine.
Corbie
Chateau Villers Bretoneaux
October / November 1915

13. During the week I visited the different parts of
Marseilles, and found it a most interesting city.
Amongst other places I saw the Cathedral and the
Pilgrimage Church of Notre Dame de la Garde.
The rest of my men were encamped on the
American Park (Camp Exposition) and Camp
Borelly near the sea.
Nov. 14 Church parade for my own men at 9.15 drove in
Sunday motor to Camp Borelly for service at 10.30 a.m.
on terrace of a large chateau near the sea. Caught
tram and hold service at 11.30 a.m. for a Brigade
and a half, and half Ammunition Column in American Park and at 12.15 took the rest. Lunch
with Colonel Washington and Officers. In the evening I went to the English Church and heard
what the resident Chaplain thought no doubt was an appropriate sermon for soldiers.
Nov. 16 Dined with Colonel Washington at his H.Q.
(Café Royal) and spent night on a bed in Capt. Fraser's room.
Nov. 17 Celebration of Holy Communion in Staff Marquee in Exhibition grounds, amongst others A.J.
Buckley (Driver B.99) - an old Leatherhead boy - was present. In the evening we had a small
dinner at the local café in La Valentine - about 10.30 p.m. a Staff Officer arrived with special
orders with regard to embarking.
Nov. 18 Brigade began to embark.
All this time we enjoyed beautiful weather, warm and sunny during the day but quite cold at
nights one morning I found my tub in my tent frozen over.
Nov 19, 20 98th and 99th embark.
Nov. 21 100th ditto. Church parade at La Valentine [3 miles due E of Marseilles] for 2 sections of
D.A.C. (No. 1 having embarked) and 120 men of RE.
My service for 101st collapsed through non-arrival of a taxi.
Nov. 22 Met Major Eustace R.E. of Challacombe encamped in same camp.
Nov. 23 Left La Valentine and went on board S.S. Eloby - appointed Ships Adjutant.
Embarkation for Salonika
Nov. 24 Sailed at noon having on board 10 Officers, 175 men and 575 horses and mules and guns,
wagons and ammunition - Major Leah R.F.A. 101 in command. The first day was smooth but
afterwards we had a very rough passage, Saturday night and Sunday were particularly stormy
and we had to leave our true course and turn head to wind. Monday the wind and sea
moderated and we turned East. again and reached
the Greek islands early on Tuesday morning.
Amongst the islands the views were beautiful but
the wind blew bitterly cold from the snow
covered hills.
Dec. 1 Arrived at Salonica at 2 p.m. we were all quite
pleased to get safely inside the not defences. For
several days we lay at anchor in the bay waiting
for room to unload.
SS Eloby
Marseille Notre Dame de la Garde
November / December 1915

14. Dec. 4 Went on shore and had a look at Salonica. The
town was crowded with a curious throng of
people. There were a great number of Greek
soldiers about and as a whole they seemed
friendly I walked through the streets, the side
streets looked very picturesque but not very
healthy for foreigners.
Amongst other things I saw the Arch of
Alexander the Great. I had tea at a hotel on the
front and then hired a boat and got back safely
to the Eloby.
Dec. 5 Service on dock at 2.30p.m. quite a good congregation including the Ships officers and some
black stokers.
Dec. 5 – 11 A not very interesting week laying in harbour. Unfortunately the whole time there was a thick
mist which prevented our seeing anything of the shore or town. The ship ran short of bran and
provisions so I spent several days going round to different ships and to the shore in a surf boat
borrowing and drawing what I could.
Twice I went ashore but the town of Salonica was not particularly attractive. I was impressed by
the largeness of the cobbles in the main street and by the curious kinds of animals the Greeks
used for transport purposes.
Heard that we had a very narrow escape from submarines on way out. A French boat which left
Marseilles an hour or two before us was torpedoed but the rough weather saved us.
Dec. 12 We received orders late on 11th to disembark early next day so I spent my 30th birthday hard at
work superintending the disembarkation of the horses and wagons and guns on our ship. We
landed all the horses and mules without losing a single animal. I sent my horse on by my groom
and later in the day rode out in a motor lorry. The road was in a terrible condition and crowded
with transport of every kind.
The Greek transport animals from our point of view looked very funny. The camp for our R.F.A.
was on a very large plain some miles out on the Monastir Road. When the first Section of
D.A.C. arrived It was covered with snow but luckily for the later arrivals there was a change in
the weather and when we arrived all the snow had disappeared.
Arch of Alexander the Great
December 1915

15. Our mess tent was a large Marquee, I took over duties of Secretary with Lieut Rich, we made
some tables and chairs from boxes and bought some cheap straw mats for the floor. I shared a
bell tent with the doctor. The first day I spent digging a trench round it I also bought some straw
mats to act as a foundation for my bed.
Dec 13 Quite mild weather but one days hard rain made the whole plain a swamp, the mud around
and week our tents was very bad indeed but we managed to keep dry Inside. All my brigade were busy
following getting their transport animals ready for mountain warfare. The great difficulty in our camp
was how to get fuel and water.
Dec. 17 D.A.C. transferred to Army to be used as transport company so I was transferred to 100th
Brigade R.F.A.
Dec. 19 A celebration in Officers Mess of D.A.C., and parade later for D.A.C. and 98, the other brigades
were all moving or doing fatigues.
Transferred self and belongings to 100th shared tent with Lieut. Mac.
Dec. 22 Moved camp to a plateau just below village of Dautvali and at the foot of the pass through the
mountains via Akbunah. It was hard work getting all the guns and wagons up the heavy track
across country but by the evening we had managed to get our new camp in order and tents
pitched.
Our 'mess' was a small hut of corrugated iron, which we floored with stone covered with sand.
The members of H.Q. mess were Lt. Colonel Ward, Lt. Mac and Kerr, the doctor and Vet and
self.
Dec. 23 I went with Lieut Brown and 4 horse limber wagon to Salonica to do our Christmas shopping.
We found it very hard work, as everything had to be bargained for. We bought a live turkey,
duck and fowl, charcoal and flour and currants and sultanas, oranges and nuts, so had quite a
load to bring back.
Dec. 24 I spent a good part of day arranging Christmas Services
N.B. Vision in fog of Joseph and Mary and the Child.
Dec 25 Christmas Day.
A celebration of the Holy Communion for the 100th at 6.45 a.m. in a bell tent, a ride to
Akbunah for a Celebration in 98th Medical tent for 3 brigade, breakfast in doctors dug-out and
parade at 10 a.m., they were late on parade so I had to gallop home in order to be in time for 11
o'clock parade of 100th.
The afternoon I spent with Lieut Mac and the Vet with a 2 horse limber wagon gathering small
prickly shrub for a Christmas fire. Our Christmas dinner was a great success - sardines, soup,
turkey (roasted in the sergeants field oven) plum pudding (the first attempt of our cook but quite
good) and fruit.
Dec. 26 Up early and rode in to D.A.C. for a
Christmas Celebration at 8 a.m. and parade
later.
Dec. 27 Spent the day on horseback, called for doctor
of 98th rode with him through the mountains
and down a narrow and precipitous path to
the H.Q. of 98th, then on to 99th in Daudli
and back up the tremendous hill. We had our
lunch of bully and cheese on the top and rode
homewards. I stopped and had tea with 101st
Capt. Robson.
Band of the 12th Battalion, Lancashire
Fusiliers at Daudli, summer 1916.
December 1915

16. Dec. 28 A lovely warm sunny day. Mt. Olympus and the other distant mountains were all covered with
snow but during this time it was only cold at nights or when the wind blew.
Dec. 29 Met Turnbull once again, now chaplain to 81st F.A., 27th Division - had lunch with him.
Dec. 30 German air-raid, one bomb dropped near our camp. I secured one piece an a souvenir.
1916
Jan 2 Parade for 3 wagon lines 98, 99, 101 at Akbunah at 9.30 a.m. Hard and rough ride to H.Q. Of
98 and was there directed to batteries of 101 where I held service, then on to batteries of 99
(Captain Carurther of Totnes) lunch with Col. Washington of 98 and on to batteries of 98 for
service.
Jan. 3 Rode out to H.Q. of 7SWB to see Pelly the Senior Chaplain, inspected with him the trenches -
my position in case of general action to be Akbunah dressing station.
Jan. 4 Rode Into Salonica in "Cooks Cart" to do shopping for mess a very cold windy day.
Jan. 5 Visited outlying batteries.
Jan. 6 Tea at 4 Canadian Hospital with Miss Oatman.
Jan. 7 Another enemy air-raid. I had just left 98 wagon lines and was riding down to DAC at Lembet
when the German came overhead and dropped two bombs, one on each side of the road - luckily
for me they fell on soft ground and I was only covered with dust. A good many bombs were
dropped but very little damage was done. One man Bomb. Ungar of B98 was killed. I buried
him next morning at 10.30 a.m. in ground advised by Divisional H.Q. on north side of square
topped hill or tumulus due south of Akbuna village. General Gay RFA was present and gave a
short patriotic address.
Jan. 9 A busy day. Celebration here at 6.45 a.m.,
Sunday Divisional at 8 a.m., agreeably surprised by all the preparations made.
9.30 a.m. parade for 100th, 10.30 a.m. For 98, 99, 101 wagon lines, 11.15 for Divisional H.Q.,
General Gordon was present and spoke to me after. Then I had my usual mountain ride with
lunch half way down the goat track and parades for 98 at 2 p.m. 101 at 3, and 99 at 4 p.m., so
ending up 2 hours ride from home about 5 p.m.
Jan. 10 Rode out to see Pelly and saw also Basil Harris and Mills of Newton Abbot.
Jan. 12 Rode round Pirnah way in a very cold wind with Rev. McConnell Presbyterian Chaplain of 4
Canadian Hospital.
January 1916

17. Jan. 15 A blizzard - snowed all day.
Jan. 16 My usual Sunday programme had to be cancelled on
account of the weather.
Not much happened during this week.
Jan. 23 Celebrations at 6.45 for 100 and 8 for parade
9.30 for 100, 10.30 for 3 wagon lines, and afternoon at
batteries.
Jan. 24 and week.
Busy digging headquarters dug-outs - for battle position. 3 dug-outs, one for telephone instrum.
and orderlies 12 x 6ft. and 7 foot deep, another 18 x 6 x 7 for living room and a smaller one 12
x 6 x 7 for officers sleeping quarters. All were on the reverse slope of a high ridge from which
the whole front from the Matterhorn to Baldza could be observed.
Jan 30 First parade - for 100 at 9.30 for 3 wagon lines at 10.30 for General & H.Q. staff at 11.15 for
Heavies (20 Heavy) at 12.15 and on to Carwithen 99 for 4 o'clock and so home about 7p.m.
No signs of “Bulgars” up to this time, the air was full of rumours and we were quite ready and
eager to give them a hot reception.
Feb. 1 At 2.45 a.m. a Zeppelin passed over our camp on its way home. The noise awoke me but I did
not see it. A large fire was caused in Salonica in a Greek warehouse but no military damage was
done. Later in the day the French brought down almost undamaged a German aeroplane which
was sent to investigate.
During this week I continued my work on the headquarters dugouts and also visited the outlying
batteries. My pony “Taffy” recovered from lameness after a 10 days rest.
Feb. 2 DAC gymkhana.
Feb. 6 H.C. at 100th 6.45, D.H.Q. 8 a.m. Parade 100th 9.30,
3 wagon lines 10.30 D.H.Q. (General Gordon) 11.15, Heavies
12.15 lunch with Colonel Pennython, 4 p.m. service for 99.D.
Feb. 7 & 8 Finished H.Q. dugouts and visited batteries.
Officers of H.Q. 100 Lieut. Colonel H. Ward D.S.O., Lieut. Kerr (adj.) and Lieut Mac,
Vet Bundred and Doctor Fetten
R.S.M. Mr. May (home North Curry).
During all this time I acted as Mess Secretary - not a very enviable position.
The weather was mild and fairly fine occasional showers.
Feb. 13 A fine day for Sunday after a stormy
weekend. The usual services with lunch
middle day at R.G.A. At bottom of Gorge
Road as I had a little time to spare before
4 p.m. service I turned and rode into Village
of Baldza - an interesting little village with
narrow lanes between a jumbled mass of
houses.
Feb. 12 Tea at 4th Canadian Hospital with Rev.
McConnell and Miss Oatman
Venizelos St, Salonica
February 1916
Zeppelin

18. Feb. 13 On Sunday afternoon met a man in RE - Young of
Netley Terrace, Newton Abbot who had worked
for Bearne at Ambrook.
Feb. 14 Rode round with Veterinary Officer, called on
Pelly and was nearly killed by a large stone from
blasting at Wave Hill.
A large marquee was assigned to me at D.H.Q. for
recreation tent and a p.b. man. Mr. Berry's
notepaper and games came in very useful.
My horse was on sick list again this time with a
sore place in the mouth so each day I had a different horse. Practically no day passed without
my being in the saddle for several hours.
Feb. 15 Rode with Lieut Mac into Salonica and had a hot bath. We lunched in Venizelos St. and
afterwards did some shopping.
Weather still very changeable.
Feb. 17 As hot as summer, next day snowing.
German aeroplanes paid us frequent visits.
A number of crocuses - yellow and other colours in the hills. The inhabitants keep large herds of
goats, a fair number of sheep and small donkeys. Most of the ploughing was done by oxen and
water buffalo. There are also a lot of big and fierce dogs. The houses are low - stone walls and
tiled roofs. Fuel consists of small prickly scrubs which grow freely on the hills, and also
charcoal.
Feb. 20 Usual Sunday programme, in afternoon a half hour to spare so rode via Baldza quite an
interesting, village in which the people appeared friendly, men, women and children saluted.
Nothing doing during the week.
Feb. 24 Rode down with Lieut. Riley of 101 and called at 4 Canadian.
Feb. 26 Rode with Lieut Burndred V.0. to look over the Veterinary hospital - a most interesting sight.
Weather still changeable, the temperature varied quickly and considerably and depended to a
great extent on the Varda wind.
Feb. 27 Sunday as usual. Lunch with Col. Pennythorne of the Heavies, called on Mack in the dugouts
and rode back with Father Heartley - a glorious spring day.
Feb. 28 Rode with Burndred through Baldza to Dreminglava. We spent several hours there. First we
inspected the Church which contained (as usual) a good many rather crude pictures. Then we
saw the village school. This was quite as
"up-to-date" as many schools at home, usual
school desks, blackboards upon which we
were asked to write, sliding partitions between
rooms.
We tried to buy some 'antiques' but found we
were too late. I bought two local made
head-dresses and some coins. We ate our lunch
in a shop and washed it down with coffee
given us by the owner. We saw a modern "oil
engine" in one house of which the owner was
very proud. Another man asked us to write
White Tower, Salonica
February 1916
S George Church, Salonica

19. something on his house, there was already the notice in English.
The country round here was more wooded, vines and figs and the people better class, the
women and girls better looking. We rode back by the Dragon's Trail.
We had in mess a fine little puppy called Tino.
During previous week I walked up to Dautbali with Fettes and Burndred and looked at the
church. I “routed” out the local priest and made him understand in my best Greek that I wished
to see the Church. He came up and showed us round. Not a very interesting church. The local
churchyard was not very well kept and human bones could be seen, drainpipes appeared as
tomb-stones. Harvey doctor of 98 said that he was passing on one occasion and saw an opened
grave and a number of women crooning round the exposed bones.
Feb. 22 Rode into Salonica with Lieut. Armitage
A.D.C. in General’s car and did some shopping and saw damage done by Zeppelin.
Feb. 29 Rode with Father Heartley R.C. Chaplain 28 Hospital into town. Called on Knight Vice Consul
British at further end of town going by tram and passing on way the enemy consulate guarded
by Allied troops.
Lunch at a large restaurant near the White Tower. We then visited the ancient churches.
I) S George - said to be the oldest church in Europe, large circular building with seats all round -
especially noteworthy were (a) the ancient frescoes, the oldest in the world, on the dome (b) the
curious decorations of the arches round the church, the paintings are not at all sacred but birds
and fishes and fruit. Outside the church is a stone marking the spot where S. Paul preached.
II S Panteleon (Merciful)
A smaller but very ancient building.
III S Paraskene -
Original dedication to Him who was made without hands - to the Turks it was known as the
Great Friday Mosque and so renamed by the Greeks S Friday -
This large and beautiful building was filled with a large number of very dirty Greek refugees (I
was rushed by a crowd of youngsters asking for "penny Johnny").
(a) Most beautiful capitals to the pillars.
III S Sophia
Earlier than the more famous namesake of Constantinople -
(a) the approach through a large courtyard with a very fine Turkish ablution tank is very
beautiful.
(b) Inside the peacefulness of this great church is especially noteworthy. There were decorations
everywhere but all so "quiet".
(c ) A picture said to have been painted by S Luke.
IV S Demetrius -
another magnificent Church.
(a) five aisles and beautiful marble pillars and
capitals.
(b) Frescoes.
(c) tomb of the patron saint.
Outside each of these churches there stands the
minaret erected by the Mohammedans. Since
their restoration to Christianity very ugly and
brightly painted screens have been added.
In S Sophia there still stands "the monument"
erected by the Turks to show the direction of
Mecca.
February 1916
S Demetrius

20. March 2 Some modern Greek lessons at Div. H.Q.
March 3 Dinner with 101. On way back did a certain amount of shopping for presents also bought some
fish. (Note - remember local method of bargaining).
On road home met Hams of South Molton 10th Devons but all Cyclists.
Birds noted locally
eagle partridge pheasant kite
chaffinch harrier duck
crows geese rocks
storks jackdaws hawks
goldfinches (many) snipe larks
plover starlings magpies (often in flocks)
sparrow
Animals etc.
Wild hare Others goats small cattle
fox sheep '' ponies
jackal, wolves donkeys
snakes oxen
tortoise water buffalo
lizards large dogs
March 1 Heavy rain.
and 2 N.B. Remember local pipe system (a) of water and gardens (b) lack of trees.
During all this time work was going on regularly on the roads so that good roads were springing
up everywhere - large numbers of local men and lads were employed for this purpose.
Spring flowers beginning to show in the hills.
March 9 Very wet day -
Rode into Salonica to call on Principal Chaplain to ask whether "marriage by proxy" was
possible (answer "No"). He was very nice and asked all about my work. I bought some good
and cheap fish in the market and did some more shopping in the town.
Recreation tent at Div. H.Q. going strong, one night an Indian, a Greek policeman who could
speak no English, a Greek soldier who spoke French in addition to a crowd of Tommies.
Modern Greek lectures at Div. H.Q.
March 12 Bishop Price of China who was spending weekend at Div. H.Q. helped me on this Sunday. He
celebrated at 8 a.m. and preached at 11.15. My other services were as usual and in addition I
started a Voluntary evensong in the Recreation Tent, this proved a great success and the singing
of the hymns was particularly hearty.
March 13 Rode into Salonica with Doctor and his cart to fetch from M.F.O. some cases of gifts from Mr.
Berry of Newcastle. He sent out £50 worth of goods but unfortunately half or more were
destroyed by fire on board ship.
I took the doctor round some of the old churches. We had lunch at the Café de Rome and
afterwards spent a most amusing hour bargaining for some pots and pans for the mess. We
succeeded in getting what we wanted for almost half what was asked. The buying of fish in the
fish market was even more entertaining.
March 14 Cologel and Gough and H.Q. staff moved up into the hills. The doctor (Fettes) and Burndred
the V.0. Lieut. Budgett (H) of A batt. and self formed a nice quiet little mess.
Sports at 29 Hospital.
March 1916

21. March 15/16 Busy on horseback in the hills distributing
cigarettes and sweets which I carried slung on my
saddle in two nosebags.
March 17 Burndred was very keen on seeing the old
churches of the town so I rode in with him. We
left our horses in charge of his man Gray near the
harbour. Our first visit was to St. George and
back through the side streets exploring several
old churches and mosques. After lunch we went
to St. Demetrius and near there found a beautiful
little garden with a fountain and a mosque and
minaret. Some sweet little girls asked us in
French to enter and some older people including
an old Turk joined in the Invitation. We did not like to enter the mosque but looked in. They
pressed us to ascend the minaret which we did. On coming down I asked all the youngsters to
sign their names on a postcard, all were Turks except one little boy who was a Greek. We then
distributed all our small change and left them after shaking hands all round.
We then walked up the steep hill and looked at the old walls. On the way down we saw the
Church of the 12 Apostles full of Greek refugees and some mosques and so back to our horses
and home.
During the night there was a Zepp raid. About 2.30 a.m. we heard some very heavy bombs
bursting over the French camp on the Monastir road. Several French planes went up and the
Zepp turned back without reaching us.
March 18 German aeroplane over the camp and a good deal of our own shrapnel fell around us.
During all these weeks the only signs of the enemy was in the air. Their airmen paid us frequent
visits but the French airmen seemed to have the mastery.
For the rest - we lived on rumours - where we were going or when we should return to France.
The weather was getting warmer and what trees there were were beginning to come out into
blossom and leaf.
March 14 Woke up at 11 p.m. to hear a burglar - chased him in my pyjamas armed with a telephone pole
but missed him greatly to the amusement of the rest of the mess.
March 19 Celebrations for 100 at 6.45, D.H.Q. - 8 a.m. 100th
- 9.30, Wagon lines 10.30, D.E.Q. 11.15.
Heavies with D 101 12.15, Voluntary evensong in Recreation tent at D.H.Q. at 6.30 p.m. This
service was again quite a success and we stopped there singing hymns for quite a long time. I
did not arrive back at 100th until 8.30 p.m.
March 20 Rode into Salonica with Fetten and Burndred to have our photos taken. Lunch at Café de Rome.
In the afternoon they went to cinema so I went round the churches once again. I spent some time
in the beautiful church of St. Demetrius. The old priest gave me some flowers - wall-flowers
and pansies from the garden because “St. Demetrius was a young officer and so was I”. Another
priest performed some ceremony I thought churching or "reception into church" as I saw no
signs of water. Mother and child remained for some time at West end of church while the priest
recited some words. Then he took the child and walked up to the screen with it holding it high
up and making the sign of the cross repeatedly with it. He took it to kiss some ikons then laid it
on the ground from which the grandmother took it. He then gave a short address.
In St. Demetrius over the altar on the roof there are the large letters October 24 1912.
From St. Demetrius I went up the hill to the old city walls and saw several more of the old
churches and mosques. The old town was very interesting. There are frequent fountains of
water in the back streets, the streets were cobbled with no attempt at covered drains.
March 1916
Church of the 12 Apostles

22. Greetings = good morning = evening
and from children "penny Johnny”.
The children and laymen were friendly but the Greek officers were not at all friendly. Very few
of the Greek soldiers that we saw about here were at all smart and the officers looked more like
models from a tailors shop than “soldiers”.
March 21 Spent this day visiting batteries. Lunch with Col. Washington H.Q. 98 and tea with Taylor and
Bittlestone at 98.
Our camp was changed during this week from South ofDautbali which was wet ground and so a
potential mosquito and malaria bed to a higher and better site on a ridge of the hills west of
Akbuna. Our own section moved on Friday. Luckily the Doctor was kind enough to lend his
Maltese cart so we managed the move fairly comfortably. The ground in the new camp was
covered with short prickly holly which took a lot of clearing. For a mess hut we erected a
March 26 Usual Sunday programme.
March 27 Woke up at 4.30 a.m. by sound of aircraft. About 10 enemy aeroplanes made a raid on the town.
While it lasted it was quite exciting, many bombs were dropped and all our anti-aircraft guns
were busy. They managed to drop one bomb on a store of 25 ton of blasting powder in French
munition depot. There was a tremendous explosion, the mass of flame and smoke was most
extraordinary.
I rode down later to see the damage and found all the ground round munition depot covered
with trench grenades. Very little if any military damage was done but a lot of civilians were
killed in the poor parts of the town (57). The priest of St. Demetruis (who called me "mon ami")
told me he was sending his wife and family out into the country. He asked me to come to lunch
one day. "dejeuner - café - cognac - cigaretta" with a motion of the hand for each. A
Mohammedan "priest" also asked me to come and see his mosque. He insisted on my going in
and he showed me the Koran and where he himself took the service. He gave me a rose from his
garden.
Later I saw a funeral of one of the native men killed in the poor part of the town that morning.
We heard in the evening that the French had brought down 4 of the enemy aeroplanes up
country.
April 3 Started a garden and planted beans, onions, spinach, lettuce, radish, mustard and cress. Several
packets I bought from Turks who knew no English or French so I had no idea what I was buying
(also cabbage and tomato plants).
April 2 A wet Sunday which rather upset programme.
During week weather continued warm and quantities of small but pretty flowers began to
appear. But we all missed "trees".
April 6 Tea at 4 Canadian Hosp. Miss Oatman better after "appendicitis".
Note - curious customs - in Dautbali Village
churchyard on certain occasions the bones
were dug up from the graves and cleaned. A
soldier told me he had seen this at Mudros
also.
One Sunday morning I saw an old woman
come out of the church with a lighted taper
and go to a grave. She removed the outer of
two drain-pipes used as tomb-stones and put
the lighted taper inside the inner one and
replaced the outer one. Galiko River Bridge
March / April 1916

23. Many of the children in these villages were marked on their fore-heads with a cross. And in the
town many houses were marked in the same way.
April 9 Usual Sunday services - In morning at one service I used a wet canteen with a beer barrel for
my pulpit.
During week visited wagon lines and batteries as usual.
Also most days the White House at Akbuna. There were a lot of nice little kiddies in the houses
behind the dressing station. I gave them sweets most days and one day an old woman gave me
an egg as "my baksheesh”. I also gave then a snapshot of themselves with which they were
delighted.
Innoculation against Cholera.
April 12 4 days trek under war conditions. 100 RFA and one infantry brigade. We left early Wednesday
and camped for the day at Arbankoi on Galiko river. We only carried one blanket and one
macintosh sheet each and no bivouacs. But with my British warm on my saddle and my artillery
cape I managed to keep quite warn at nights. The days were hot and nights cold. We fed on
bully and biscuit. Thursday we crossed the mountains and camped for the night in an Ideal spot
near a stream and near real trees - heard the cuckoo here. Friday we began to retreat. Colonel __
asked me to take charge of transport of brigade. I got them through successfully although the
doctors cart upset twice and broke a shaft. We camped near the river and in the shade of
Giliraltan. My bed was in a ploughed field. We were threatened with a thunderstorm but
luckily it passed off. Saturday we continued our journey home. We had to pass through a deep
gorge and along a narrow track in the side of the cliff with a deep drop to the river. one of our
ammunition wagons slipped over in a dangerous place it was caught on a ledge and
miraculously neither the men nor 6 horses were hurt. We had to let the infantry pass us. I saw
Basil Harris and Mills. We arrived home about tea tine after a very enjoyable time.
April 16 Palm Sunday.
Usual Sunday Services.
Wednesday Rode into Salonica with Capt. Wallace C98 to show him the churches. We spent some time
sitting in the garden of a mosque with the old Turkish priest. He showed us the blood stains on
the floor of the mosque where his father, mother and wife had been murdered by the Greeks. We
both agreed that our respective races English and Turk were ____________ but the Greeks
____________. He gave us some flowers and accepted our cigarettes.
Good Friday
Service for 100th at 9.30 and at Div. H.Q. 11.15. General spoke to me after and said "I deserved
well of everyone for my work in running a recreation marquee".
Easter Day
H.C. for 100th etc. 6.45 a.m.
'' Div. H.Q. 8 a.m.
'' '' 11.45 a.m.
There was quite good attendance at each of these services.
Parade Services 9.30, 10.30, 11.15.
At 1 o'clock I started off and after a 3 hours ride reached 98 camp at Yenikoi. A well attended
service at 5 p.m.
Next morning I had a Celebration at 6.30 a.m. in a most picturesque spot. In the background
was "Gibraltar" and at its feet the river - nearer were 3 tall trees and the ruins of an old house - a
portion of this old ruin formed my altar. There was quite a good attendance.
After breakfast I rode down the river through the gorge and across the foothills to the Galiko
which I followed up till I reached the camp of the Surrey Yeomanry and Cyclists. Here I held
April 1916

24. service at 11 a.m. and Celebration afterwards.
After lunch I went with some of the officers
and bathed in the Galiko and later rode home.
One of the officers was a Mr. Horne son of a
candidate for Barnstaple another Aston who
hunts with D. & S. S.
Both these days were very hot. I travelled with
all my goods and chattels. In front of my
saddle I had my Burberry rolled and behind
my macintosh sheet and blanket, in my water
bucket I carried my cassock and in my feed
bag hymn sheets, while in my haversack I
carried my communion vessels.
April 25 Gave some sweets to children at Akbuna and an old lady gave me a coloured Easter egg in
return.
April 26, 27 Very heavy rain - mud!
At Ambarkoj [or 'Ambarkeui'] the women were keeping festival. All were decked out in
brightest colours, especially yellow, and dancing. Near here there was a storks nest.
Another visit to Salonica. The Easter decorations were curious - evergreens outside the doors
but inside suspended in the middle of each arch were life size cardboard angels.
Another German aeroplane on view at the White Tower.
Doctor, Vet and Self invited Miss Findlay whom we met to have lunch with us. She was shortly
rejoining army.
Sunday after Easter
Services interfered with considerably by a General's inspection of lines.
Saturday An open air concert by 67th Field Ambulance in our camp - a great success.
May 4 Another Zeppelin raid - but this time the airship was brought down by British naval gun-fire and
fell on the marshes at the mouth of the Vardar. The envelope was destroyed by fire, the crew
were captured.
[Zeppelin LZ85 was damaged by fire from battleship HMS Agamemnon on May 5th
]
May 6 Spent a good deal of the day in trying to get to the
Zepp on horseback but failed. I rode for a long
way across the delta and for some distance
through thistles up to my shoulders, but at last
came to marshes which beat me.
Heard later that the Adj. of 4th Canadian Hospital
was drowned with his horse on the same quest.
The day was an extremely hot one.
May 7 Usual Sunday services. The 2 early celebrations
were well attended. The evening service I changed
to 7 p.m.
May 8 On account of RFA movements I was transferred
on this day to 98 RFA so as to be in a more central
place.
April / May 1916
Remains of LZ85 removed to White Tower
Camp of 2/20th Battalion, Ambarkoj

25. Apparently a fête day in Dautbali [Modern day Oreokastro.] In the morning there was a
procession with bunches of flowers round the village and the priest with his people. In the
afternoon there was dancing the young men dressed in their best danced slowly in a line
hand-in-hand to the accompaniment of “music” from a bagpipes made apparently
from"goat-skin", the young women and girls did the same equally sedately.
During all this time my recreation marquee did its work well. Various books and periodicals
came in from Div. H.Q. and games and writing paper from Mr. Berry. The R.E. made tables and
forms and noticeboards.
The different Regimental gardens now began to show something for the work put in earlier.
May 9 Joined 98 R.F.A. at H.Q. near Pirnah - Colonel Washington in command - spent night in
Adjutant's dug-out, a weird hole in the ground with a 2 tier bunk.
May 10 Marched to Ambarkoi - bivouacs require a certain amount of ingenuity to pitch so as to be high
enough and yet long enough.
May 11 Marched to a point just south of Kukush [modern day Kilkis – see map] . I just managed to
pitch my “bivy” in time as we had a heavy thunderstorm with vivid lightning and a lot of rain.
Both these days were tremendously hot.
May 12 Anniversary of joining as Chaplain.
Marched to a point north of Kukush and camped in a pretty spot near the river Spank - to the
north lay the boundary mountains.
May 13 Rode into Kukush to shop for Mess.
May 14 Holy Communion for 98th 6.30 a.m.
Parade for 98th 8.30, for Div. H.Q. 9.30 for 101 and 99th Columns 10.30 a.m.
May 15-16 Reconnoitring expeditions with the Colonel. Passed through village of Irikli which was
absolutely destroyed and had not a single living inhabitant. From the top of the hills we had a
fine view of Lake Doiran a beautiful lake at the foot of precipitous hills.
The country south east of the Lake and behind the foothills was much prettier, the villages not
so much destroyed. There were actually trees (oaks) beautiful pasture and fine crops.
During this week the weather was very unsettled. We had tremendous rainstorms and frequent
thunderstorms. One night I slept in a regular pool of water.
May 17 Rode into Kukush shopping and bought eggs - 4 for 1 drachma lettuce, leeks, beans and some
other things at E.F.C.
May 18 Enemy took advantage of a moonlight night
to bombard us from aircraft. They dropped
a good many bombs but did absolutely no
damage.
The French for military reasons had to clear
certain villages in the danger zone. The
inhabitants camped just outside Kukush.
They looked a much better lot than the
average Greek. Our men fed them on bully
and biscuit.
May 19 Visited the Church of S. George on the top
of Kukush hill. It was of no particular
May / June 1916
Kilindir Railway Station

26. interest. Rainstorms very local but extremely hard and frequent thunderstorms.
May 21 Holy Communion Div. H.Q. at 7.30 a.m., Matins for Borders at 8.30, for Div. H.Q. 9.30, at D.
batt. for five units at 11. A busy morning owing to distances to be covered in short times.
May 22 Weather cleared up and became warm again. Scouting aeroplanes busy.
A wonderful country for wild flowers. Remember the number of battle cemeteries in this
country and the fields of large white poppies. Bulgarian deserters coming in most days.
During week visited batteries.
A very heavy bombardment one evening. Interesting to watch the shelling of a train which was
not hit. Hursova and Kilindir. Irikli village near us was a sad sight totally destroyed in last war.
The graves in the churchyard were overturned and skulls and bones laying all over the place.
3 Torquay boys in R.E. Cann coachbuilder, Ford an ex-choirboy of St. Lukes from Cockington.
May 28 H.C. 98 H.Q. at 7 a.m. Service for Boarders 8.30 a.m., and batteries at 9.30, 10.15, 11.
Very hot weather and a plague of flies.
Nothing much of interest during week. I rode into Sarigol with cooks cart shopping for mess
and to get a few things to sell again to the men, at the E.F.C.
June 4 H.C. at 98 H.Q. at 7.15 a.m. Service for batteries at 9.30, 10.15, and ll., Borders at 8.30 a.m.
After 11 a.m. service I had a late celebration in the open. 7 p.m. service for another battery,
dinner with Wallace and a walk home across country in the dark.
June 5 Chaplains meeting at Janes. The church here was not destroyed. Pelly persuaded sappers to
clean up churchyard. He held services there on Sundays. In this village there is a spring of
mineral water.
Kilkis area
today
June 1916

27. June 6 Rode over to Spank to get my post and on way back passed thro' Seremli. There were lots of
storks nests here - some on top of chimneys, others on trees. Peasants busy harvesting in
primitive fashion, oats and barley.
About this time I received additional chaplain - Rev. Armour, Vicar of Berkeley Gloucester. I
gave him the Spank district and Div. H.Q. Other Chaplains in district were C. of E. - Pelly,
Ram, Officer, Duval, Foster; Wesleyan. Maurice, Bold; Presbyterian, Gibb.
Friday Quiet day in Janes Church. Pelly took the addresses. I celebrated at 8 a.m. on the old stone
altar. Addresses at 9.30 Matins, and 12 Litany, 3 p.m. evensong. The rule of silence all day. The
Church was delightfully cool although it was very hot outside.
The Church is an old stone one with a broad verandah round. There is a screen reaching to the
roof and filled with pictures which can be removed - the whole surmounted by a large cross.
The roof is covered with crude paintings of bible subjects . The colours are good and the
paintings not grotesque. No seats in the church but rests for the arms. In the vestry is a large box
with a Vestment and Skeleton.
Sunday 11 Holy Communion 7 a.m. services at 8.am., 8.45, 9.45, 10.45, 6 p.m. (A.S.C.) 7 p.m.
A very hot day.
June 12 Rode over to Janesh and received orders about Memorial Service for Kitchener from Senior
Chaplain, and in evening rode with my boy via Seremli, and Spank river to Sarakol where we
slept out the night. The morning light revealed that we had chosen an ancient burial ground.
June 13 At 6.30 a.m. there was a large memorial service at which brigade and battery Commanders and
representative parties of officers and men were present. I first explained the reason of the
service and then followed the usual form of Burial Service with the prayer for Committal at Sea.
After breakfast I walked down to the river passing on way a little cheese factory where the
owners were very pleasant and insisted on my accepting a square of cheese without payment. I
then walked over to Sarakoi and back to B.98 for lunch.
Nothing of much importance during week except the heat and the flies. The enemy guns were
busy but could not reach us. They tried another air-raid on a lovely bright moonlight night but
with no success, some bombs though dropped quite near enough.
June 18 For reasons (stated later) a slack Sunday, but a very hot day. Holy Communion here 7.15a.m.,
service for A99, A98 at 8 a.m., for D98 etc, at 9.30, for A101 at 10.30 a.m. and for C98 at 7 p.m.
June 20 Once again on the move this time southward - left camp about 7.30 p.m. with advance guard
and rode through Kukush to a camp on banks of Galiko, a particularly hot day next day.
June 21 Marched on again in evening to Kamara.
In this district harvesting was in full swing. Whole families worked. They had small tents in the
fields and special harvesting costumes, blue overalls and broad brimmed straw hats. The cutting
was done with sickles. The carrying by ponies and donkeys. In the villages were threshing
floors. In Karmara a large "floor" upon which was spread the corn, two small sleighs with a boy
sitting on them were drawn round and
round. In Yenikoi I saw the next stage with
large wooden forks and shovels the straw
was thrown into the air leaving the corn.
June 27 Rode into Akbunar to see Pelly and back
through Yenikoi up a very narrow steep
gorge to the top of the south road and so
home.
June / July 1916
A camp at Yenikoi

28. N.B. Heard an explanation of numerous fountains - that they were built by Turks in expiation of
crime.
July 2 Sunday - Spent night with Major Leah - Celebration 7 a.m., parade with D.A.C. at d.30 a.m. too
hot really for open air service. 10 a.m. A battery under a tarpaulin. Rode home with Bennett
through a great heat and a beautiful gorge passing a little shrine built over a source of a water
supply.
Service at 7 p.m. in Kamara Church by permission of the Major. It was a tiny little building but
was properly appointed and was clean and cool.
A very hot spell of weather. A certain number of officers and men were knocked over by the
heat but often through carelessness. Found necessary to order men to wear their hats in bivies.
A number of large grass fires in the district.
July 9 Sunday - A parade for 98 at 7.30 a.m. ante-communion and a Celebration immediately after.
This was a new attempt and proved successful as a good many officers and men remained for
the Celebration.
Left camp at 2 p.m. and rode in to 101 via Akbuna a tremendously hot day, the sun affected my
groom who was ill on the way.
Voluntary evening services at 101, spent night with C101. Rode into Salonica early Monday
and put up at the Splendide Hotel on the front. It was very hot - temperatures running 110 in the
shade and more. In the evening I dined at "The White Tower", spent Tuesday shopping. Bennett
brought in borrowed (101) horses at 5 p.m., we rode out to 101, changed horses and rested an
hour and arrived home eventually about 11 p.m. On the Monday I called on Dowding the
Chaplain in Chief of Salonica army.
Wednesday Rev. Armour rode over to lunch (the Vicar of Berkeley near Gloucester). Flies galore!
July 16 Services for 101 - too hot for outdoor services so held separate services in the battery messes.
A good deal of sickness in brigades near Akbuna - two men died in 100 and I buried them in
Akbuna cemetery. Gunner Costella and Gunner Tremaine on July 14 and 16, both buried sane
evening as death, Costella's funeral owing to difficulty in digging grave was not till 11 p.m. -
luckily it was moonlight.
Helmets issued at last, sun's rays very powerful and temperature running up to 112 in shade and
often over 100, a good many affected but I kept very fit.
Saturday Brigade sports at Kamara. We had quite a successful 3 days sports. We were rather far off for a
22 & 23, 24 large number of visitors but a good many rode over.
Sunday 23 Parade at 7.30. I arranged the Celebration of the Holy Communion in Kamara Church.
The arranging of sports meant once again “a move”. We started off once again on July 28. First
nights camp at Salamanli. Just before starting on second afternoon there was a tremendous
downpour of rain which caused the Galeko to rise very rapidly. We crossed successfully though
a good deal of fun was caused, some of the mules taking the opportunity to rid themselves of
their drivers.
Unfortunately for us officers, the water got into the limber which was carrying our valises so
our blankets as well as ourselves were wet through. The darkness of the night and heavy state of
track made travelling slow but we got into Galiko rest camp eventually. Next day again there
were some heavy thunderstorms with torrential rain. We marched to Spank river and next day to
flat-top hill.
August 4 Rode up to a ridge within a mile or two of Lake Doiran and looked down on the beautiful blue
lake.
July / August 1916

29. August 5 Rode with Doctor (Martin of Glasgow) to Janesh. In the
Church we found a child's funeral going on. The body was
laid without a coffin on a table in the nave. The priest taking
the service swung a censor the whole time. We remained for
some time but there seemed to be no probability of ending so
we left. During the service each person present knelt down
twice then went forward and kissed the ikon on the breast
and then the lips of the child - men first followed by the
women.
Our camp at Flat-top hill was quite a comfortable one. H.Q.
was situated on a small plateau some couple hundred feet
above the horse-lines and road. The water supply was not
good the river having run nearly dry.
August 9 At 5 a.m. the French bombardment of Bulgar lines
commenced and we moved up next night. Our march up was
attended with usual small calamities, first the Cook's cart
was overturned and then the G.S. waggon stuck and had to be unloaded in a narrow space.
Luckily the batteries travelled by a different road so were not held up by H.Q. Our new camp
was near Gola in a delightful spot - a deep and narrow valley with a stream of good water and
dense oak scrub. We were thus out of sight of the enemy and practically safe from shell-fire.
Artillery bombardment each day. The French took hill 227 above Doiran station without a
casualty. The trenches and wire had been smashed to bits.
Each day I rode out with Major Bouchier reconnoitring.
Doiran is a beautiful lake - the town lies at east end and was spared as much an possible by us
as it is a Serbian town.
Sunday 13 My altar was by the aide of a stream and under the shade of some oak bushes in a beautiful spot.
In the evening I had Voluntary services for C & D batteries.
Weather still hot and dry but cooler at night.
Blackberries now becoming ripe. We had a good many stewed with apples bought in Kukush
which quite reminded one of home. Nearly shot a hare with my revolver.
17th Each day and all day continuous heavy bombardment by guns of all sizes.
French attacked “The Tortoise” and “The Little Crown” at 6.30 a.m., infantry advance preceded
by tremendous bombardment - whole line of hills one mass of bursting shells. French infantry
advanced under cover of the smoke and took The Tortoise without losing many men.
18th Started at 5 a.m with Major Bouchier and rode through some picturesque scenery up and down
tremendous hills and along some precipitous roads to a deep ravine where we left the horses.
The others went off reconnoitring- I went up a steep hill to Major Leah's battery where I spent
some hours with the men, while there we had two eight inch “crump”over but no one was hurt
in the battery. On way home we passed through a village - ruined like all those in this
neighbourhood - where there was a very large tree in the shadow of which was a reservoir for
bathing, a large number of men were sitting, in the shade and bathing, near was a fountain of
splendid cold water.
Saturday Left our very comfortable and pretty camp and marched to a camp near the river beyond
19th Yenikoi. Our baggage waggons were lost no we had to lie down how we best could.
20th Moved on again, before we left there was a bad sandstorm. We started about 5.45 p.m. and
marched along a very dusty road to South of Gugunci then up some bad hills and up and down
Gugunci. Watercolour
by Colonel Bois
August 1916

30. sore precipitous ravines to Asagi Mahali. on the way several of our waggons stuck and the
maltese cart overturned.
We got into Gokceli in the early hours of the morning. This village was like all those in the
neighbourhood, in a state of ruin from previous wars but several houses still had a roof so we
cleaned them up and made a “Mess”. Our bivies we pitched in the open as we were warned of
sand fly fever. The surroundings of the village were very pretty-it was tucked into a little hollow
high up in the hills. There were many fig trees, pomegranates, vines, plums and plenty of
blackberries. The place was at times inclined to be unhealthy on account of shell fire. Most days
shrapnel came over, 5-9 passed over pretty often, and an occasional 8 inch and 12 inch. One 8
inch fell within 12ft of our mess but no one was hurt.
Heavy counter attack by Bulgars repulsed.
Spent following days with Colonel Bouchier studying the country - Kidney - Horse Shoe and
Tortoise - 535 and Grand Couronne etc. The whole countryside was fitted with shell holes of
various sizes.
Tuesday & Another counter attack on Horse Shoe repelled by aid of our guns. We had a very noisy time for
Wednesday an hour firing away on every side especially obtrusive was a French 75 which barked away
night over our heads, the noise of this gun is particularly penetrating and car splitting. We had no
casualties in our batteries.
Tuesday Visited H.Q. of a French infantry. Set foot for first time in Serbia battalion with our Colonel
afternoon in a warm corner and had coffee with the Commandant. He wished a wire laid out from his
H.Q. to ours. The Colonel asked me to do this and I was to have started at 3.30a.m. Wednesday
but this was cancelled on account of the counter attack - rather lucky for me as the French said I
could never have got there on account of the curtain of fire.
Wednesday Walked out with a message to French (found a dead Frenchman on way). On way back met
morning Colonel and walked a long way with him looking for battery positions. On way home we got a
bad wetting from a thunder shower.
Separated for a time from my horse which had to be kept with the others at the waggon lines a
long way back. It was not safe to keep horses up in our village which could only be approached
by night.
Quiet day or two.
August 1916
(l to r) the hills La Tortue, Petit Couronne and Grand Couronne

31. Thursday Took Grant over to one of the batteries on his arrival at 10 p.m. and rode back on an
ammunition limber, rather an eerie ride as some crumps landed near us.
Sunday Services for Borders at 9 a.m. R.N.F. and Div H.Q. and D battery at 10 a.m. This service was
Aug. 27 close alongside Major Lear's guns under some trees. The celebration after this service I held in a
little ruined house adjoining one of his guns - which he used as an ammunition store and so was
full of shells, over the fireplace was a large crescent so the former owner was probably a
Mohammedan. After this service I held a service for some infantry and 2 batteries under a large
fig tree. These services were all well within range but luckily we were not troubled though our
own shells were whistling over our heads.
In the evening we left our pretty little village and marched down over the precipitous track to
waggon line at Malovki - spent the next day and night there and then marched on Tuesday night
to Mialovo. This was not an attractive spot - an absolutely barren plain with hardly a blade of
grass but within reach of Lake Ardzan.
August 31 Marched through Kalinovo and Causica to near Lake A. where we established ourselves in
some French dug-outs which the doctor and myself cleaned out. Unfortunately orders came for
us to move back again which we did that night along a tremendously dusty road.
Sept. 3 Rode over to Col. Arty across country and took service at 9 a.m. and back again for service for
98 & D.A.C.
Weather still very hot and dry except one evening when we had a dust storm followed by very
high wind and rain and lightning. Our Mess and tents collapsed but my bivy stood firm. During
all this time I kept very well but a number of officers and men could not stand the heat, malaria
took a large number.
Sept. 4 Moved to near Galavanci.
Sept. 5 Rode into Janesh to EF canteen for Mess stores and on to Kukush a long ride on a very hot day I
did a lot of shopping vegetables and fruit, honey and groceries etc. I had the cook's cart with me
to bring back the stores (melons, quinces and apples).
Sept. 6 A parade for certain officers to receive decorations from French; Major Lear and 2 of his men
received the Croix du Guerre for brilliant work in barrage fire near Doldzeli. The scene was a
picturesque one, the long line of khaki with fixed bayonets, behind Lake Ardzan and in the
distance the mountains of Gheygeli, while on the right the Bulgars were busily shelling.
After the parade I rode with Doctor McCorkie to the Lake Ardzan and had a fine swim, this we
repeated each day.
Still very hot and still very many grass fires. Some camps were burnt out. Numbers of hawks
and storks and other birds followed these fires. Several days I spent reconnoitring with Colonel.
Sept. 10th
Armour ill - G.O.C. wired for me to take services. H.C. 7 a.m. Evensong 6 p.m.
During day our H.Q. waggon line moved to old French dugouts; on way out my horse rolled
with me in the river and I got drenched.
In the evening I walked out with ration
waggon to H.Q. in ravine beyond Ardzan
where we established ourselves in come old
French dugouts.
Sept. 11th
Spent day with Colonel in O.P. - fine secure
deep dugouts.
In evening buried a man of B batt who was
killed by a shell, grave on Reselli -Ardzan
track. Fairly heavy bombardment all day.
September 1916
Soldiers swimming in Lake Ardzan

32. 12th
Busy week - this day start of preparatory
bombardment.
13th
Heavier bombardment.
14th
Infantry assault at 1.30 a.m. we took Dorsal ridge and
Miticulleuses, but infantry were shelled out during
day. I spent most of these days and nights in the
observation post from which we could see the whole
battle. No shells came very near our O.P. but there
were any amount of shells on both sides wandering
about. Our batteries were lucky and had no casualties.
I did all kinds of small jobs for the Colonel, one of
then was to keep the Colonel supplied in food both
day and night.
The dug-outs in the ravine in which we lived were not
very large, mine was a funny little hole infested by mice. There were also a lot of sand flies and
mosquitoes. I slept out generally outside with my mosquito net. The effect at night of all the
guns firing the flashes of the guns and the bursts was very fine. The enemy used their guns well.
Sept. 16 3 men of B battery wounded. I went over and had a lively time, I spent most of my time either
laying on my stomach and trying to crawl under my tin hat or jumping into the nearest hole. The
ground round the battery was like a pincushion - pitted with holes - most of them were 8 inch.
The noise was great especially of the explosion and the holes in the ground very big. You could
hear the shells coming all the way so had time to throw yourself down. I pulled Muns out of the
signal pit and got him to his dug-out suffering from shell shock.
Sept. 17 Voluntary service for D battery near their guns and in the evening I walked to waggon lines and
then rode to Div. H.Q. for service. This was the second Sunday running on which we had enemy
aeroplanes overhead.
There were lots of partridges in the neighbourhood also of course mosquitoes and sandflies.
Weather a little cooler but still dry.
Sept. 18 Orders to move once again. Shifted during night to Causica [Chaushitsa] where we camped on
the side of some fairly high hills. The nights were now becoming much cooler. Sickness
amongst men and officers now not so bad; I kept quite well (thanks be) though we had a very
trying time. One evening about 6.30 p.m. we had a rather unpleasant experience. First a terrific
wind accompanied by dust, then
tempestuous rain. My bivy was
blown down and blankets and
everything were drenched so we
spent rather a rough night.
However, I was no worse for it
next day.
Sept. 24 Holy Communion Div H.Q. at 7
a.m. and Borders at mixed service
for various units at 9.15 a.m.,
another at Oreovica at 11 a.m. and
Evensong at Div. H.Q. at 6 p.m -
a lovely September day. It was
still warm by day but cooler at
night.
September 1916
Army Service Corps supply column
camp at Causica
British soldiers attending a church parade
in a ravine near Oreovica

33. Sept. 25 Rode to Karasouli [modern Polykastro,
marked the western end of the British front in
Macedonia] with Hartnoll and on to the river
Vardar.
During this week I had my first touch of
sickness (stomach) but I a managed to pull
myself together without becoming a hospital
case.
Oct 1 Borders at 8.am., C & D waggon Sunday
lines at 10 and A & B at 10.45a.m., Division
H.Q. at 6p.m. - a quiet Sunday because I was not quite fit.
Monday Rode over to Oreovica to meet S.C.F. 12 Corps at Pelly's place - when I arrived back found
Russell sick and doctor sent him to hospital at once so following Col. Bouchier Major Lear
came in D.R.Q. to command.
Both Colonel Bouchier and Russell went sick so Major Lear came in to command. I did what I
could to help in the office and did as much of the Adjutants work as possible taking summaries
of evidence etc.
I began digging in for the winter.
Sunday
Oct. 8 A strenuous day. Borders at 8, 98 B.A.C. with 101 B.A.C. and 101 H.Q. and 66 S.A. At 9.3O,
D101 a long way off at 10.45 a.m., A & B 98 in a picturesque spot at 11.30 a.m. Lunch with D
& service for C & D at 4.30 p.m. and Evensong service for Div. H.Q. at 6 p.m.
Colonel Bouchier returned from hospital and Dr. McCorkie.
Weather still very hot during the day and flies etc. as bad as ever.
Nothing much doing on our front but daily trench raids and patrol work. Our guns were kept
busy with barrage work and annoying enemy working parties.
Buried Capt. Lax in Oreovica churchyard a most picturesque spot.
Oct. 15 Div. H.Q. H.C. at 7 a.m. (left home at 6 a.m.) Borders at 8 a.m. 98 Column and 101 and waggon
lines at 10, 98 H.Q. with 66 I.B. H.Q., Cheshire transport and 68 Field Ambulance A.D.S. at 11
a.m. - 98 D batt at 12 noon and Div. H.Q. at 5 p.m.
A quiet week as far an fighting went but we began to get busy digging in for winter. I
discovered fragments of skull and bones and pottery in my little plot. As usual I spent most of
my time riding round visiting my different units and on Friday I went to Field Cashier to draw
money for the Brigade.
The rains started and very much so.
My servant Driver Bennett went sick with dysentery.
Oct. 22 A very wet Sunday. I rode through torrents of rain to Div. H.Q. for H.C. at 7 a.m. On my way
back I had an exciting experience fording the Selimli stream which was coming down in flood. I
had arranged a full programme but it had to be cancelled partly through weather and partly on
account of a bombardment by our batteries.
Oct. 23 Went down to Salonica for 3 days leave, train from Karasouli to Dudlar. Put up at Hotel
Continental. Met Turnbull down from the Struma. Wonderful change to get a proper bath and
some decent food and see a few civilians. Called on Miss Oatman at 4 Canadian did a lot of
shopping for Mess and various friends.
Oct. 28 In morning rode to Oreorca to meet Rev. Pelly Senior Chaplain.
October / November 1916
No.28 Casualty Clearing Station with Karasouli
and River Vardar to rear

34. Then went up to the batteries to watch bombardment of a particular sector in preparation for
trench raid. Two men in B wounded. Went on to infantry battalion HE.Q. with our Colonel
whence I watched raid. Our men met with strong resistance. It was a fine sight at night to watch
the flash of the guns and bursting shells and the numerous flares up and down the line.
Did not get back to camp till 2.30 a.m. and was up again at 5.30 a.m. for usual Sunday work.
Weather still mild but getting more damp.
Nov. 4 Expedition with Doctor for material for dug-out.
Nov. 5 D.H.Q. H.C. 7.30, Borders etc. 9.am., 98 B.A.C. 10, A & B 11.30, C & D 12.30, Heavies 4,
D.H.Q. 5.
Nov. 6 Busy on Mess and own dug-out. My own dug-out contained numerous human bones.
Nov. 7 An interesting excursion in search of fish, flesh and fowl. Rode to Dragomir but failed to get
any eggs or Turkeys but I bought some very good fish from some fishermen - 1.50 an ochre
(= 31bs) I brought home a bucket full of smaller fish and 4 large ones akin to pike slung on my
saddle.
On way home I also picked an haversack full of mushrooms.
New servant Gunner Blackwell arrived.
Nov. 8 A raid with the Doctor and his maltese cart in search of material for our dug-out.
One of my weekly jobs was to go to the Field Cashier to draw money for the Brigade.
Nov. 12 H.C. Div. E.Q. 7.30, B waggon line at 10, D at 11, Morning Service Borders etc. at 99 D
waggon line at 10.45, D guns at 12 (for C & D), Evensong for Heavies at 4, Div. H.Q. at 5.
A peculiar "straff" with Major L. who objected to a teaching sermon on the Being of God. "He
did not care whether there were many gods or one" "He was not going to have his men taught
dogma".
Weather still mild but damp.
Batteries on alert always to snipe, working parties or retaliate but otherwise quiet. Dug-out
progressing - each building his own half!
Nov. 19 Div. H.Q. 7.30, Borders 9, 98 B.A.C. and waggon lines in B.A.C. dinging shed at 10, Div. E.Q.
at 11.30, lunch with B98 and Service at 3 p.m., Heavies at 4 p.m.
Slept for first time in new dug-out and found it excellent.
Our interior size was about 15 feet wide by 10 feet long and plenty of head-room the windows
were ammunition boxes also the cupboards. It was dug in the side of a little knoll which rose
abruptly from the plain and was sheltered from the north and east. The roof was corrugated iron
the timber was commandeered from certain ruined villages.
Bought 4 live Turkeys to keep till Christmas for our H.Q. Staff.
Snow on distant hills but very mild where we were.
Nov. 26 The climax to a 3 days heavy bombardment of the Bosch line. I carried out my mornings work
and in afternoon went round the batteries. Some of them had a very hot time of it especially
where there was an ammunition explosion. Luckily only one man was killed in our forward
wire-cutting batteries. I buried him at 8 p.m. Some infantry kindly dug the grave and also came
to the funeral to form a congregation. It was a most impressive service the batteries firing away
near us and over our heads the heavies, while the whole countryside was lit up by Bosch flares
and search lights. The area we were in had been heavily shelled during the whole day so we did
not tarry unnecessarily.
November 1916

35. There were lots of shells humming about all
day but I was lucky enough to avoid them,
though I practised "musical bumps"
repeatedly (N.B. equipment tin hat, haversack
- field dressings and emergency communion
vessels).
Next day I held short thanksgiving services
for two of our batteries. The first service was
in a little ravine. The Bosch shells were
whistling over us the whole time and falling
about 50 yards further on on a ridge so I wore
my tin hat during the whole service.
Nov. 28 Two more days leave in Salonica this time to
make company for the Colonel and to buy
stores.
Visited H Gore (temp. adjutant) in 21st
stationary hospital and found in next bed young angel Spicer so we had a great talk of mutual
friends and places we both knew in N. Devon.
Dec. 3 A very wet Sunday so my services were cut down to indoor ones - H.C. at DIY. H.Q. at 7.45
a.m. and service at 98 Column at 10 a.m.
Rev. D.R. Polly Senior Chaplain of the Division went to live at Div. H.Q. so relieved me of that.
I had been living one and half hours ride from Div. H.Q. so it meant a long and wet and dark
ride on the winter mornings to get there in time for the early Celebration. But it was a great
privilege to act as Chaplain to Div. H.Q. as most of the Staff Officers were Communicants.
Very wet weather and plenty of mud. Luckily my little dug-out kept out the rain and we even
made a fire of old ammunition boxes.
As usual spent my week days walking round the batteries.
Dec. 10 A fine day after 10 days continuous rain. H.C. for heavies at 7.45 a.m. under a big tarpaulin.
9 a.m. Borders with whom I breakfasted each Sunday morning.
10 a.m. Service in Shell's dining hall for all my waggon lines.
11 a.m. for D. & G. batteries.
12 noon for heavies.
Lunch with Capt. Housden and Voluntary afternoon service at 3 p.m. for his and adjoining men.
A flooded river in the middle of my parish added to ithe ordinary excitements of Sunday, but I
crossed safely several times (Selimli ravine).
My new batman turned out to be a regular old soldier and was probably in private life a burglar
but he made the inside of my dug-out most comfortable.
Tragedy! two of my turkeys killed by the collapse of their house, we ate one and gave the other
to the R.S.M.
Dec. 12 My birthday - anniversary of landing in Salonica. A fine sunny day.
In my transport (infantry) lines I found some North Devon men so we had a great "tell" of
places and people we both knew.
Nothing much doing at this time but my batteries were always busy. The Bosch occasionally
woke up and then going round the batteries was quite exciting. One day they nearly got my
groom and myself in Ardzan and many times I had to shelter at C. batt. (Taylor Dane Bittlestone
Harries). They had here a most disgusting funk hole with a couple of feet of mud and water. I
took cover one day in their mess but found it was not good enough when I got a "chunk" of
Ruined houses at Reselli
November / December 1916

36. shell thro' the corrugated Iron roof. On another occasion I took
the Graves R man round and when I got to Reselli found he had
been marked P.B. with shell shook and just as luck would have
it we had quite a hot one for a while.
Dec. 23 Raids were carried out near Doiran so we feinted on the Nose.
Housdan's battery was rushed up to wire-cut. They were
heavily shelled by 5.9 but were untouched. Spent some time at
the battery and observation post and the walk home was over
very rough ground and included a shrapnel barrage.
Dec. 24 Started Christmas Services. (H.C.) Borders, 101 Waggon lines,
G. & D. 98 gun positions -
Heard at D that Lieut. Lucas of C100 (late C101) had been killed so rode on to Smol. The road
from Bagalca to Smol was the worst for mud I had ever ridden on. I buried him in British
cemetery near Smol church - the C.R.A. and others were present.
Christmas Beautiful sunny but cold day; very busy for me but happy. Holy Communion at 66 small
Day Arms Column at 7, 98th H.Q. at 8, B.A.C. at 10.30. Morning Service for 98th H.Q. at 9.15,
B.A.C. at l0, 66 S.A.A.C. at 11.15, B. & A. gun positions at 12.30.
The men at our H.Q. had their Xmas dinner middle day. We provided turkeys, oranges, nuts
etc., and plum pudding arrived from a newspaper fund. Altogether they had a very good time.
Our dinner was at 7.30 p.m. - Captain Shell and Doctor Becton were our guests. With the aid of
Fortnum & Mason boxes and the different parcels we made quite a lordly feast. Capt. Housden,
Ricketts, Trueter turned in after.
Dec. 26 A Celebration for C gun Position at 7.30 a.m. all the battery officers present in a strange little
dug-out.
Dec. 28 Rode to Smol through Vardar wind, very cold but fine, Ghevgeli clear in the distance.
Doctor White inoculated me typhoid.
A fine box of Christmas good things arrived from home.
Our mess was pronounced very comfortable by all - a hole in side of hill about 16 x 12 and
covered with corrugated iron the walls we covered with reed matting and decorated with
Christmas numbers, only difficulty sweating of roof.
1917
Jan. 1 New Year opened cold and dry. Doctor and I discovered some timber in some old French
dugouts up a narrow ravine. We fetched two loads home in his maltese cart. General
Montague Bates caught us red handed but luckily treated it as a joke.
On several occasions the enemy just now was rude enough to shell our H.Q., once he put one
within a yard of a bell tent but luckily the owners were not at home.
Jan. 7 H.C. for 6 inch, service for waggon lines in Shell's Dining hall, ditto for 66 S.A.A.C. At D guns
it was too wet to hold a service, but I held one at C in a dug-out. Major Preston new B.C.
present. Second innoculation.
A quiet week - wild, usual spasmodic shelling.
January 1917
Trench at Reselli

37. Jan. 14 H.C. at A (late C) 98, 9.30 parade for 99 & H.C., 10.50 Small arms & 12 noon for A101.
15 Rode with Lieut Purdue of G.R.U. and Re. Whitcombe of 80 F.A. to Dragomir and bought
some fish after great bargaining with the Mayor and .
N.B. Many officer interested in problem of future life, some offended with Christianity because
they supposed that it taught in future life all the good would be angels with harps etc. craving
for re-union.
POEM "Where two or three”
No grey towered village church is here, historic centuries old,
with painted glass thro' which the sun streams violet, red and gold;
with pillared nave and aisles that whisper sanctuary and calm.
But just the ruined straw barn of a little ruined farm.
Without - around the littered yard black mud rolls ankle-high;
An aeroplane in scorn of shrapnel hums across the sky;
The crackle of machine guns down the line is never still;
A battery is busy on the slope behind the hill.
Within - a strip of sacking hangs where once there hung a door;
A score of weather-beaten men kneel humbly on the floor;
'While spur on heel beneath his robes, the Padre bows his head
Before an up-turned box whereon a fair white cloth is spread.
Age, rough and rude the outward signs, makeshift maybe and yet
Together in His Holy Name these 2 or 3 are met,
To ask his pardon for their sins, however great the sum,
To seek his help and strength to show His death until He come.
And so One stands within their midst His promise to fulfil,
Who knows how hard a road they tread since His was harder still;
Who knows what dangers of the soul and body be ahead,
Since worse were His, when for their sakes His precious blood was shed;
And nought He heeds their mud-stained clothes their place of worship mean,
Because if only for an hour He sees their hearts are clean,
And so He comes, His presence felt, to hear them when they call.
And bless their sacrifice, Himself the Sacrifice for all.
From Country Life.
Jan. 16 and following days -
My days were spent as usual in walking and riding round the waggon lines and gun positions.
All the gunnery officers were extraordinary hospitable and always seemed glad to welcome a
caller.
Jan. 17 99th held a gymkhana - the course was marked with shell-holes which suggested possibilities.
Jan. 19 Rode as usual to the Field-Cashier. On way back I came in for a most exciting time. The Bosch
shelled our waggon lines heavily. Three men only were wounded. Corporal Butterworth
R.A.M.C., Corporal Smith of B. battery helped me first-aid Driver Boxall of B.A.C. who had a
broken thigh bone. We got him on to a piece of corrugated iron and after many halts to lie down
and get as near to mother earth as we could we got him under cover. I recommended these two
men to the Colonel and he thanked them.
In the evening we had a sing-song to let off steam.
January 1917