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Abercrombie	
  Adjusts	
  to	
  a	
  
World	
  Moved	
  On	
  
For	
  teens	
  growing	
  up	
  in	
  the	
  late	
  90s	
  to	
  early	
  2000s,	
  Abercrombie	
  
&	
  Fitch	
  was	
  THE	
  go-­‐to	
  status	
  clothing	
  store.	
  Preppy,	
  sexy	
  and	
  
insanely	
  popular.	
  You	
  could	
  lose	
  your	
  “cool”	
  card	
  if	
  you	
  didn’t	
  
have	
  an	
  A&F	
  logo	
  emblazoned	
  hoodie	
  in	
  your	
  wardrobe.	
  
Preferably	
  several.	
  But,	
  according	
  to	
  sales,	
  criOcs	
  and,	
  most	
  
importantly,	
  KIDS,	
  culture	
  has	
  moved	
  on…and	
  Abercrombie	
  is	
  
desperately	
  failing	
  to	
  keep	
  pace.	
  
You	
  don’t	
  need	
  to	
  go	
  too	
  far	
  back	
  in	
  your	
  Ome	
  machine	
  to	
  
remember	
  a	
  day	
  when	
  Abercrombie	
  ruled	
  on	
  high	
  school	
  and	
  
college	
  campuses.	
  Its	
  Stepford	
  ads	
  of	
  impossibly	
  beauOful,	
  if	
  
somewhat	
  androgynous,	
  models,	
  loud	
  dance	
  music	
  and	
  dark	
  
stores	
  filled	
  with	
  what	
  Businessweek	
  called	
  “conformist,	
  sexy	
  
and	
  exclusive”	
  clothing	
  opOons.	
  The	
  selecOons	
  were	
  few	
  and	
  
most	
  –	
  if	
  not	
  all	
  –	
  were	
  Oght,	
  low	
  and,	
  in	
  a	
  word,	
  unapologeOc.	
  
Things	
  were	
  not	
  always	
  that	
  way.	
  When	
  Abercrombie	
  &	
  Fitch	
  
went	
  public,	
  with	
  about	
  125	
  stores,	
  in	
  1996,	
  the	
  brand	
  did	
  not	
  
yet	
  possess	
  its	
  disOncOve	
  air	
  or	
  reputaOon	
  for	
  unapologeOc	
  
exclusivity.	
  But	
  that	
  changed	
  when	
  CEO	
  Michael	
  Jeffries	
  penned	
  
a	
  29-­‐page	
  book	
  that	
  included	
  condiOons	
  for	
  stores	
  and	
  all	
  
employees.	
  These	
  sOpulaOons	
  were	
  strict,	
  draconian	
  and	
  
granite.	
  Women	
  had	
  to	
  arrive	
  at	
  work	
  sans	
  makeup	
  or	
  nail	
  
polish.	
  Nearly	
  all	
  jewelry	
  was	
  verboten.	
  Ta_oos	
  as	
  well.	
  Men	
  had	
  
to	
  be	
  clean-­‐shaven	
  and	
  otherwise	
  cleancut.	
  Store	
  managers	
  
were	
  expected	
  to	
  frequent	
  local	
  college	
  campuses,	
  searching	
  for	
  
coeds	
  with	
  the	
  Abercrombie	
  look.	
  You	
  may	
  have	
  already	
  guessed	
  
they	
  started	
  at	
  fraterniOes,	
  sororiOes,	
  and	
  athleOc	
  teams.	
  Photos	
  
of	
  hopefuls	
  were	
  forwarded	
  to	
  “headquarters”	
  for	
  approval.	
  
The	
  “This	
  Is	
  Definitely	
  Not	
  ‘Hot	
  Topic’”	
  message	
  resonated.	
  A&F	
  
was	
  the	
  ulOmate	
  frat	
  party	
  fantasy	
  for	
  jocks	
  and	
  Mean	
  Girls,	
  and	
  
even	
  many	
  who	
  might	
  have	
  otherwise	
  claimed	
  to	
  hate	
  the	
  image	
  
clamored	
  to	
  be	
  included.	
  Then	
  came	
  the	
  controversies.	
  
When	
  the	
  recession	
  hit	
  all	
  retail	
  with	
  the	
  force	
  of	
  a	
  cartoon	
  anvil,	
  
Jeffries	
  curtly	
  refused	
  to	
  lower	
  prices	
  or	
  standards.	
  Instead,	
  he	
  
maneuvered	
  the	
  brand	
  into	
  one	
  PR	
  situaOon	
  ader	
  another.	
  
Racist	
  t-­‐shirts,	
  thongs	
  for	
  preteens	
  and	
  a	
  blatant	
  refusal	
  to	
  even	
  
consider	
  stocking	
  plus	
  size	
  clothes.	
  Each	
  move	
  created	
  a_endant	
  
controversy,	
  and,	
  each	
  Ome,	
  Jeffries	
  just	
  smiled	
  his	
  Cheshire	
  grin	
  
and	
  kept	
  on	
  keeping	
  on.	
  It	
  was	
  during	
  this	
  la_er	
  controversy	
  that	
  
the	
  CEO	
  made	
  headlines	
  naOonwide	
  with	
  his	
  infamous	
  quote:	
  
“Does	
  it	
  exclude	
  people?	
  Absolutely.	
  We	
  are	
  the	
  cool	
  brand.”	
  
Miscalculated	
  might	
  be	
  an	
  understatement.	
  Jeffries	
  may	
  have	
  
thought	
  his	
  quip	
  simply	
  another	
  case	
  of	
  wink-­‐wink	
  PR	
  grabbing,	
  
but	
  he	
  failed	
  to	
  account	
  for	
  both	
  the	
  evolving	
  culture,	
  
parOcularly	
  among	
  his	
  target	
  market,	
  and	
  the	
  power	
  of	
  social	
  
media	
  to	
  enact	
  cultural	
  change.	
  Jeffries	
  was	
  universally	
  blasted,	
  
easily	
  drowning	
  out	
  anyone	
  who	
  might	
  have	
  defended	
  him.	
  
Some	
  millions	
  sOll	
  shop	
  at	
  A&F,	
  but	
  the	
  brand	
  has	
  lost	
  much	
  of	
  
its	
  mysOque.	
  
Time,	
  as	
  it	
  tends	
  to	
  do,	
  kept	
  Ocking,	
  and	
  so	
  did	
  the	
  trend	
  
machine.	
  Fast	
  forward	
  a	
  decade	
  and	
  the	
  comfortable	
  sneer	
  of	
  
Abercrombie	
  is	
  as	
  out	
  of	
  fashion	
  as	
  Jersey	
  Shore	
  bro	
  culture.	
  But	
  
the	
  brand	
  has	
  failed	
  to	
  adequately	
  keep	
  pace	
  with	
  a	
  world	
  less	
  
interested	
  in	
  its	
  agtude	
  and	
  appearance.	
  And	
  now	
  Jeffries	
  has	
  
paid	
  the	
  price.	
  He	
  “reOred”	
  in	
  December	
  2014,	
  leaving	
  the	
  brand	
  
without	
  its	
  iconic	
  –	
  if	
  controversial	
  –	
  leader…and,	
  worse,	
  without	
  
much	
  of	
  any	
  plan	
  for	
  how	
  to	
  retake	
  the	
  retail	
  hill.	
  
This	
  post	
  was	
  reforma_ed	
  for	
  distribuOon.	
  
	
  
To	
  read	
  more	
  content	
  from	
  Ronn	
  Torossian,	
  please	
  visit	
  
h_p://ronntorossianupdate.com	
  	
  

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Abecrombie Adjusts to a World Moved On by Ronn Torossian

  • 1. Abercrombie  Adjusts  to  a   World  Moved  On  
  • 2. For  teens  growing  up  in  the  late  90s  to  early  2000s,  Abercrombie   &  Fitch  was  THE  go-­‐to  status  clothing  store.  Preppy,  sexy  and   insanely  popular.  You  could  lose  your  “cool”  card  if  you  didn’t   have  an  A&F  logo  emblazoned  hoodie  in  your  wardrobe.   Preferably  several.  But,  according  to  sales,  criOcs  and,  most   importantly,  KIDS,  culture  has  moved  on…and  Abercrombie  is   desperately  failing  to  keep  pace.  
  • 3. You  don’t  need  to  go  too  far  back  in  your  Ome  machine  to   remember  a  day  when  Abercrombie  ruled  on  high  school  and   college  campuses.  Its  Stepford  ads  of  impossibly  beauOful,  if   somewhat  androgynous,  models,  loud  dance  music  and  dark   stores  filled  with  what  Businessweek  called  “conformist,  sexy   and  exclusive”  clothing  opOons.  The  selecOons  were  few  and   most  –  if  not  all  –  were  Oght,  low  and,  in  a  word,  unapologeOc.  
  • 4. Things  were  not  always  that  way.  When  Abercrombie  &  Fitch   went  public,  with  about  125  stores,  in  1996,  the  brand  did  not   yet  possess  its  disOncOve  air  or  reputaOon  for  unapologeOc   exclusivity.  But  that  changed  when  CEO  Michael  Jeffries  penned   a  29-­‐page  book  that  included  condiOons  for  stores  and  all   employees.  These  sOpulaOons  were  strict,  draconian  and   granite.  Women  had  to  arrive  at  work  sans  makeup  or  nail   polish.  Nearly  all  jewelry  was  verboten.  Ta_oos  as  well.  Men  had   to  be  clean-­‐shaven  and  otherwise  cleancut.  Store  managers   were  expected  to  frequent  local  college  campuses,  searching  for   coeds  with  the  Abercrombie  look.  You  may  have  already  guessed   they  started  at  fraterniOes,  sororiOes,  and  athleOc  teams.  Photos   of  hopefuls  were  forwarded  to  “headquarters”  for  approval.  
  • 5. The  “This  Is  Definitely  Not  ‘Hot  Topic’”  message  resonated.  A&F   was  the  ulOmate  frat  party  fantasy  for  jocks  and  Mean  Girls,  and   even  many  who  might  have  otherwise  claimed  to  hate  the  image   clamored  to  be  included.  Then  came  the  controversies.  
  • 6. When  the  recession  hit  all  retail  with  the  force  of  a  cartoon  anvil,   Jeffries  curtly  refused  to  lower  prices  or  standards.  Instead,  he   maneuvered  the  brand  into  one  PR  situaOon  ader  another.   Racist  t-­‐shirts,  thongs  for  preteens  and  a  blatant  refusal  to  even   consider  stocking  plus  size  clothes.  Each  move  created  a_endant   controversy,  and,  each  Ome,  Jeffries  just  smiled  his  Cheshire  grin   and  kept  on  keeping  on.  It  was  during  this  la_er  controversy  that   the  CEO  made  headlines  naOonwide  with  his  infamous  quote:   “Does  it  exclude  people?  Absolutely.  We  are  the  cool  brand.”  
  • 7. Miscalculated  might  be  an  understatement.  Jeffries  may  have   thought  his  quip  simply  another  case  of  wink-­‐wink  PR  grabbing,   but  he  failed  to  account  for  both  the  evolving  culture,   parOcularly  among  his  target  market,  and  the  power  of  social   media  to  enact  cultural  change.  Jeffries  was  universally  blasted,   easily  drowning  out  anyone  who  might  have  defended  him.   Some  millions  sOll  shop  at  A&F,  but  the  brand  has  lost  much  of   its  mysOque.  
  • 8. Time,  as  it  tends  to  do,  kept  Ocking,  and  so  did  the  trend   machine.  Fast  forward  a  decade  and  the  comfortable  sneer  of   Abercrombie  is  as  out  of  fashion  as  Jersey  Shore  bro  culture.  But   the  brand  has  failed  to  adequately  keep  pace  with  a  world  less   interested  in  its  agtude  and  appearance.  And  now  Jeffries  has   paid  the  price.  He  “reOred”  in  December  2014,  leaving  the  brand   without  its  iconic  –  if  controversial  –  leader…and,  worse,  without   much  of  any  plan  for  how  to  retake  the  retail  hill.  
  • 9. This  post  was  reforma_ed  for  distribuOon.     To  read  more  content  from  Ronn  Torossian,  please  visit   h_p://ronntorossianupdate.com