Defects of garment(print, fabric & sewing)

Assignment on –
Faults of Printing, Fabric &
Sewing
1/29/2018 Faults of printing, fabric & sewing by Rupak 1

Course Code: FAM603
Course Title: QUALITY CONTROL AND MANAGEMENT
This assignment prepared for the partial fulfillment of the requirements for
. the Degree of EMBA in Apparel Merchandising.
Faults of Printing, Fabric & Sewing
PREPARED BY – RUPAK BARUA
ID-17101260
Date:27th JANUARY 2018
EMBA in Apparel Merchandising
CFTM (College of Fashion Technology & Management)
SUBMITTED TO - Ms.DILRUBA
Lecturer,
Dept. of Textile Engineering
CFTM (College of Fashion Technology & Management)
-----------------------------------
Ms. Dilruba
Lecturer, CFTM1/29/2018 Faults of printing, fabric & sewing by Rupak 2

CONTENTS:
1. Introduction
2. Classification of Defects
3. Section-1/Fabric defect
 Importance
 List of fabric defects
 Loose warp in fabric
 Double end
 Broken warp
 Tight end
 Float of warp
 Wrong end color
 Broken pick
 Miss pick
 Oil spot
 Hole
4. Section-2/Dyeing, printing and finishing faults
5. Section-3/Sewing problems
 Problem of stitch formation.
 Seam pucker.
4. Section-4/ Other defects
5. Conclusions
6. Reference

Introduction:
Definition of defect:
1. An imperfection that impairs worth or utility.
2. Want or absence of something necessary for completeness or perfection.
3. A fault that spoils the material.
Classification of Defects:
Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical,
Major and Minor defects.
1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects
(0%).
2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a
certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements
3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a
certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements
Section-1
Fabric defect:
A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by the consumer.
Importance of fabric defect:
• Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements are today
greater since customer has become more aware of poor quality problems.
• To avoid Rejection of fabric, it is necessary to avoid defects.
• Price of fabric is reduced by 45%-65% due to the presence of defects.
• Company image will go down.
List of fabric defects in woven fabrics:
1. Loose warp in fabric
2. Double end
3. Broken warp
4. Tight end
5. Float of warp
6. Wrong end color
7. Broken pick
8. Miss pick
9. Oil spot
10. Hole

1. Loose warp in fabric
Reasons:
1. If the tension of warp yarn is low in warping, then this fault appears.
2. If the beam contain broken warp yarn.
Remedies:
1. The warp tension in warping should be equal and uniform.
2. We have to motivate the worker to take care of the fabric.
2. Double end
Reason:
After sizing if the two ends of warp sticks together. And if the worker don’t observe that properly
than those ends can go together through the same heald eye and can create this problem.
Remedied: Worker have to be very care full about this matters.

3. Broken warp
Reason:
If a warp yarn breaks and if the dropper don’t fall on the dropper bar, then this fault arise.
Remedies:
1. Operator should walk around the machine to observe this sorts of problem.
2. If the problem is in the dropper bar then, we have to change that bar.
4. Tight end
Reason: If the tension of a warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the loom
then this problem arise. This over tension produced on warp during warping and
weaving.
Remedies:
To solve this problem we have to find these ends and have to adjust the tension.

5. Float of warp
Reason:
If someone pull the fabric towards the cloth roller intentionally or intentionally then we can have this
fault.
Remedies:
Worker have to be very careful about the button which causes the fabric to come forward.
6. Wrong end color
Reason:
It happens due to the wrong drawing of colour yarn.
Remedies:
1. Worker have to be very careful during doing the job of drawing.
2. After finding the faults we have to remove the faulty colour yarn and place a correct colour yarn.

7. Broken pick
Reasons:
1. If the speed of the machine is too high, then beat force of the reed to weft yarn will be too
high.
2. If the pressure of the relay nozzle and elca is too high.
Remedies:
1. We have to reduce speed of the machine.
2. We have to reduce the pressure of relay nozzle or elca.
8. Miss pick
Reasons:
If a worker start a stopped machine without picking the broken weft from the shed then this type of
fault arise.
Remedy:
We have to motivate the worker to do job properly during time of pick finding.
9. Oil spot
Reason:
Oil spot on the fabrics are caused by too much oiling on loom parts from other sources.

2. Hole
Causes:
• Due to badly tied knot.
• Needle break due to slub.
• Due to high tension of yarn.
Remedies:
Ensuring uniform yarn tension on all the feeders, with a Tension Meter.
Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated, as per the required Stitch Length..
Eyelets & the Yarn Guides, should not have, any fibers, fluff & wax etc. stuck in them.
The yarn being used, should have no imperfections, like; Slubs, Neps & big knots etc
Section-2
Dyeing, printing and finishing faults
Causes and Its remedy

Section-3
Sewing problems
Sewing problems consist of-
• Problem of stitch formation.
• Seam pucker.
1. Problems of stitch formation
a) Slipped stitch: If the upper thread in continuous stitches can not
pick the lower thread i.e. binding miss during stitch formation is
called slipped stitch.
Causes:
– Loop size or needle is small.
– Needle deflection or bending.
– Tension variation in lopper and needle thread.
– Hook or lopper or needle is not able to hold the thread loop in
proper time.
Remedies:
– Timing of (hook or lopper) with needle should be adjusted properly.
– Adjust needle and thread size.
– Adjust tension property.
– Change of thread.
b) Un balanced Stitch: If the interlacement of the needle thread and
bobbin thread does not takes place at the middle of two layers of
the fabric then unbalanced stitch is produced.
Causes:
Incorrect tension of sewing thread.
Incorrect passage of thread through the guide.
Due to insufficient lubrication, (uneven) tension variation increased.
Remedies:
• Adjust thread tension.
• Correct the passage of thread.
• Use good quality of thread.

c) Variable stitch density:
If the no. of stitch varied in the seam line per unit length, then variable stitch density occurred.
Causes:
• Insufficient pressure of pressure foot, causing uneven feeding.
• Feed mechanism is not working properly.
• Improper unwinding of thread.
• Twisting of needle in the bottom of thread
package.
• Fraying of thread in the needle.
• More tension in the thread.
• Becoming of more heating of thread and hook.
• Use of low quality of thread.
Remedies:
• Uses of improved feed mechanism.
• Increase of pressure of presser foot.
• Proper threading of sewing thread.
• Thread can be changed.
• Proper use of lubricant.
• Use of good needle.
• Finer thread can be used.
• Tension in thread must be adjusted.
d) Frequent thread breakage/Brocken stitch:
Causes:
• Improper unwinding of thread from package.
• Higher thread tension.
• Excess needle heating.
• Lower quality of thread.
Remedies:
• Reduce tension in tension in tension disc.
• Reduce thread tension.
• Use of strong yarn.
• Change the needle if required.
• Use coarser needle.
• Use of high quality needle.
• Use lubricant.
• Use needle cooler.
• Confirm oil supply.
• Change of thread.

Problems of seam pucker
Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along with sewing line.
a) Unequal stretch on fabric:
Causes :
• If two or more plies fabrics are sewn together, one ply will be feed more than
other and seam pucker create due to uneven stretch.
Remedies:
• Improved feed mechanism of sewing m/c.
• Skilled operator and fabric handling would be special process.
b) Fabric dimension instability:
Causes:
• When two or more layers of fabric are sewn together and one layer shrinks more
than after washing differential seam pucker is formed.
Remedies::
• Shrinkage difference must be less than 2 %.
• We should test shrinkage of two types of fabric before sewing.

c) Extension in sewing thread:
Causes:
• While sewing threads are subjected to tension and for tension
thread will be extended and after sewing when thread get chance of
relaxation then seam pucker formed.
Remedies:
• Tension of the thread should be kept as low as possible.
• By changing the sewing threads.
d) Sewing thread shrinkage:
Causes:
• After sewing, if the sewing threads shrinks due to wash or iron,
then seam pucker occurred.
Remedies:
• Shrinkage of sewing thread must be equal to the fabric shrinkage.
• Before sewing, the shrinkage property of both thread and fabric
should be known.
Section -4
Other Defects:
Other defects, such as - misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished
buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag,
wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all
these defects come from finishing section.

Sizing defects:
(Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong
placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints ,
measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern
section.
Poor ironing:
if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment
surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on
garment.
Finishing defects: misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished
buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag,
wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all
these defects come from finishing section.
Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:
These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as
labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper,
hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.
Defects are given below:
1. Unmatched color of thread
2. Broken button and zipper tape
3. Short zippers
4. Faulty zippers
5. Wrong labels
6. Improper size of the labels
7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons
8. Broken poly bag
9. Wrong hanger
10. Improper embroideries and prints. Etc.
Remedy:
This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why
during production the garments should be checked properly (In
line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must be
given as like as artwork.

Thank you !
REFERANCE:
1. www.slideshare.com
2. www.Wikipedia.com
3. www.google.com
4. Note from CFTM
Conclusions:
• Due to presence of various defect on a garment, it has to be sold
at lower prices, or even in some cases as seconds, which creates a
Hugh value loss to the company.
• To minimize value loss due to variety of defect occurring in the
fabric/printing/dyeing/sewing etc, a manufacturer should try to
minimize those defects by taking suitable remedies.

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