HERBAL COSMETICS ;HERBAL INGREDIENTS IN HAIR CARE,SKIN CARE AND ORAL CARE. REVIEW ON THE GUIDELINE FOR HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH RESPECT TO PRESERVATIVES EMOLLIENTS FOAMING AGENTS.CHALLENGES IN FORMULATION OF HERBAL COSMETICS

1. 1
HERBAL COSMETICS
Presented by
Sujitha mary
M pharm
St Joseph college of pharmacy

2. CONTENTS
2
 Herbal ingredients used in hair care
 Herbal ingredients used in oral care
 Herbal ingredients used in skin care
 Review of guidelines for herbal
cosmetics by private bodies like cosmos
with respect to preservatives,
emollients, foaming agents, emulsifiers
and rheology modifiers.
 Challenges in formulating herbal
cosmetics

3. HERBAL COSMETICS
3
DEFINITION:
 According to D & C Act 1940
 Any article intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or
applied to any part of human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting,
attractiveness or altering the appearance and
includes any article intended for use as
component of cosmetics.

4. 4
 Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are
formulated, using various permissible
cosmetic ingredients to form the base in
which one or more herbal ingredients are
used to provide defined cosmetic benefits
only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”.
 In cosmetics, both natural and phyto-
ingredients are used. Natural products
include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto-
ingredients include pure constituents
obtained by various process.

5. 5
 They do not provoke allergic reaction & do
not have negative side effects.
 They are easily incorporated with skin and
hair.
 Extract form of the plants decreases the bulk
properties of the cosmetics and give
appropriate effects.
 Easily available & found in large variety &
quantity.
ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL
COSMETICS

6. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN HAIR
CARE
6
 Hair care product is to make the hair look
manageable and promote healthy growth.
Hair care products are :
Hair oil
Hair tonics
Hair cream
Shampoos
 Hair conditioner
Hair lotions
Hair dyes

7. SOME COMMONLY USED HERBALS FOR
HAIR CARE
7
S.NO BOTANICAL
NAME/COMMEN NAME
USES
1 Acacia concinna
(Shikakai)
Pods extract is used as hair
cleanser & control of dandruff
2 Arnica montana (arnica) Flowers extract is used in hair
oil as a tonic material &
stimulate the hair follicles
3 Betula pendula (Birch) Extract of leaves is used as
anti - dandruff
4 Brassica (Mustard) Seed oil is used as hair oil for
hair nourishment
5 Calendula officinalis
(Marigold)
Flower extract is used in hair
creams for smoothening
effect.

8. 8
S.NO BOTANICAL NAME/COMMEN
NAME
USES
6 Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Alcoholic extract used in
hair tonics
7 Centella aciatica (Brahmi) Whole plant extract is
used for growth and
maintenance of hair.
8 Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Used as a basic raw
material for preparing
hair oil and tonic
11 Eclipta alba (Bhringaraj) Whole plant extract is
used for hair
nourishment and dyeing.
12 Ginkgo Biloba (Ginkgo) Used for hair growth
13 Glycyrrhiza glabra (liquorice) Root extract used treat
the hair loss

9. HAIR OIL
9
 The hail oils used for dressings and
nourishing the hairs and grace appearance of
hairs.
 This preparations is generally used to
increase the growth of hair and remains
healthy.
Hair oil should have following properties :
They should give luster to the hair.
Retain them soft & flowering.
Invigorate their growth.
Prevent premature grayness.
Keep the brain cool.
Should not be sticky.

10. 10
Various hair oil used
for hair
nourishment:
 Castor oil
 Cocount oil
 Sesame oil
 Almond oil
Formula
BASE
 Sunflower oil
 Sandal wood oil
 Rosemary oil
 Chameli oil (jasmine)
 Henna oil
HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Til oil 70
2 Alomond oil 10
3 Apricot oil 10
4 Sunflower oil 10
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Centella asiatica 10
2 Emblica officinalis 10
3 Hibiscus rosa
sinensis
10
4 Amarantus census 10
5 Musa acuminata-root 10

11. HAIR SETTING LOTION IN SPRAY PACKING
11
 They are mainly used for keeping the position of
the hair on the scalp intact. Usually polymeric
substances are used. But natural herbal extracts
can be used as substitutes.
Formula :
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal hair oil 54
2 Paraffin 8
3 Beeswax 3
4 Ceralan 5
5 Water 30
S.NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Musa acuminata
flower
3
2 Triconella foenum
graecum
2
3 Aloe barbadensis 1
4 Gum karaya 1
BASE HERBAL EXTRACT MIX

12. 12
HAIR LOTION
Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the
hair follicles.
They are generally perfumed with oil of
rosemary, it posses a good stimulating
property.
Catharanthus Lotion Formula :
S.NO INGREDIENTS PARTS
1 Tincture of cantharides 1
Aqua samburi 11
3 Rosemary 5

13. 13
Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in
suitable form liquid, solid or powder - which
when used under the condition specified will
remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris
from the hair shaft and scalp without
affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health
of the user.
Fenugreek extract help in conditioning,
thickening and foam stabilizing.
Saponins-natural foaming agent.
SHAMPOOS

14. 14
 Surfactant : Provide detergency & foam.
Eg, Anionic surfactant: Sulfonic acid salts,
Alcohol sulfates, Alkylbenzene sulfonates,
Phosphoric acid ester, Carboxylic acid salts.
 Viscosity modifiers: Electrolytes(NH4, NaCl),
Natural gum (Gum karaya, tragacanth,
Alginates), cellulose derivative(HEC, MC),
Carbopol 934, PVP, Phosphate ester.
 Opacifying agent: Alkanolamides of higher fatty
acids, Propylene glycol, Mg,Ca & Zn salt of
stearic acid, Spermaceti.
INGREDIENTS USE IN SHAMPOOS

15. 15
 Conditioning agent : Lanolin, Mineral oil, herbal
extract, Egg derivative.
 Clarifying agent: Solubilizing alcohol like
Ethanol, Isopropanol & Non ionic solubilizer like
Polyethoxylated alcohol and esters.
 Sequestering agent: EDTA.
 Preservatives : Methyl & Propyl paraban,
Formaldehyde.
 Foam Builders :Lauryl monoethanolamides,
sarcosinates.
 Perfumes: Herbal, fruity fragrance.

16. 16
HERBAL SHAMPOO:
S.N
O
Ingredients %
1 Herbal extract mix 5
2 Ammonium
carbonate
1
3 Detergent-SLES 40
4 Water 20
5 Propylene glycol 30
6 Polyethylene glycol 4
7 Preservatives &
Perfume
QS
S.N
O
Ingredients %
1 Musa acuminata-
root
3
2 Aloe barbadensis 3
3 Emblica officinalis 2
BASE
HERBAL EXTRACT MIX
REGULAR SHAMPOO:
Mixture of Shikakai, Reetha and Amla – hair
appears better appearance then shampoo.

17. 17
HEALTH SHAMPOO:
 Take equal quantities power such Reetha,
Shikakai, Multani mitti, Nagarmotha,
Mehandi & Amla.
 Soak in water for overnight – make paste.
HAIR FALL PREVENTIVE SHAMPOO:
 Paste of flower of Til (Sesame) & Gokharu
in cow milk - Past - Prevent the hair loss and
encourages the growth.
SHIKAKAI HAIR WASH:
 Shikakai power, Dried amla, Dried lime
peel, Green grams, Dried curry leaves,
Fenugreek seeds – cleansing and hair wash.

18. 18
ANTI-DANTRUFF HAIR WASH:
 Shikakai, Mehandi, Reetha, Nimba tree bark
(Margosa), Chandan.
 Make a power in water at night then boil this
mixture till it form a paste.
HAIR CONDITIONER
 The term hair conditioners used for attractive,
healthy looking hairs. They should be capable
of giving life, softness, body and silky touch,
control of flyway and ease of styling to the hair.

19. 19
Jojoba conditioner formula:
 Rose floral water - one cub
 Jojoba oil - 1 tablespoon
 Vitamin E oil - 10 drop
Aloe vera hair conditioner formula:
Ingredient %
Aloe vera gel 60
Lemon juice 10
Essential oil 0.5
 Essential oil – lavender and rosemary are
used for relaxing and mind oil for stimulating
effect.

20. 20
 Hair tonic which promote hair growth, arrest
hair fall and Strengthen hair roots.
Ingredients:
 Amla fruits
 Henna (mehandi)
 Bhringraj leaves
 Jasmine flower
 Japa flower
 Tulsi leaves
 Vasaka
 Spirulina
Heat all ingredients with oil (coconut oil) on low
flame till all herbs are burnt.
 Strain the oil & store in airtight container
HAIR TONIC

21. 21
 These are preparations which are used for
the coloring of the hairs.
 They enhances the attractiveness of gray
hair. They are applied externally on the hair
with help of brush.
Formula
 Extract of these powder give brownish black
S.N
O
INGREDIENTS %
1. Lawsonia inermis power 75
2 Indigofera tinctoria 20
3 Quercus infectoria powder 5
HAIR COLORANTS

22. 22
RED HAIR COLOR ENHANCER
 ½ cup beet juice
 ½ cup carrot juice
FOR GRAY HAIR
 ½ cup dried sage
 ¼ cup dried rosemary
FOR BLONDE HAIR
 6 chamomile tea bags
 ½ cup plain yogurt and oil of lavender

23. 23
HAIR COLORANTS
COLOR PLANT NAME PART USED
Red/Brown Henna
Walnet
Catechu
Leaves
Leaves, nuts
Heartwood
Blonde/Yellow Cassia
Catechu
Saffron
Chamomile
Rhubarb
Leaves
Leaves
Flowers
Flowers
Root
Black
Shoe flower Flowers
Blue Indigo Leaves

24. 24
HAIR CREAM
 Herbal hair oil processed into cream are also
very useful as dressing preparations in hair
grooming.
 It serves the purpose of hair oil without its
greasiness.
 Basically these cream are O/W type emulsion.
FormulaS.N
O
INGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal hair oil 30
2 Triethanolamine 10
3 Glycerin 10
4 water 45
5 Borax 5
6 perfume QS

25. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN ORAL
CARE
25
 Oral hygiene products are used for keeping
the teeth, gums and the oral cavity clean.
 The health of individual is reflected through
sparkling teeth, dazzling white color and tight
teeth and gums.
ORAL CARE AND ORAL HYGIENE
PRODUCT :
Tooth Powders
Toothpastes

26. 26
Gargling solution
Mouth wash
Tartar remover
 Tooth powder & Pastes used for cleaning the
teeth by removing the dental plaque and
tartar with help of toothbrush for keeping oral
cavity fresh.
 Mouthwashes and Gargling solution, made
up of astringent, antibacterial and anti-
inflammatory herbs are selected, its used for
care of oral cavity.
TYPICAL ORAL CARE INGREDIENTS
 Sweeteners : Glycerin, Glucose, Sodium
cyclamate, Sorbitol, Saccharin, Stevia

27. 27
 Abrasives : Calcium carbonate, Calcium
Diphosphate, Calcium triphosphate, Sodium
floride, Sepia officinalis powder, Silica gel,
Siliceous earth, Magnesium aluminum
silicate, Celite , Kieselguhr, Charcoal power.
 Flavorings agent: Peppermint oil,
Wintergreen oil, Cinnamon oil, Clove oil,
Anise oil, Dill oil, Nutmeg oil, Fennel oil,
Thymol , Anethol, Menthol.
 Binding agent : CMC, Sodium alginate, Gum
karaya, Gum Acacia, Gum tragacanth,
Bentonite.
 Preservatives: Methyl paraben and Propyl
paraben.

28. 28
HERBS BOTANICAL
NAME /COMMON NAME
PARTS
USED
PROPERTY
Acacia arabica(Babool) Stem bark Astringent
Achyranthes
aspera(Prickly chaff
flower)
Entire plant Astringent
Anacyclus pyrethrum
(Chamomile)
Root Toothache
Azadirachta indica (
Neem)
Stem berk Antibacterial
Syzygium aromatum Buds Toothache
LIST OF PLANT USED IN DENTAL CARE AND
ORAL HYGIENE PREPARATIONS

29. 29
HERBS BOTANICAL NAME PARTS USED PROPERTY
Mentha piperita Oil Flavoring agent
Psidium guajava Leaves Astringent
Prunus amygdalus Root bark Tartar remover
Spilanthes acmella Leaves, fruits Toothache, gum
infection
Spilanthes calva Flowers Flavoring agent
Terminalia chebula Stem bark Astringent
Mimusops elengi Fruits Toothache
Pongamia glabra Bark Antiseptic

30. TOOTH POWDER
30
S.
NO
INGREDIENTS %
1 Calcium
Carbonate
50
2 Celite 30
3 Sodium chloride 5
4 Hard soap
powder
5
5 Herbal powder
mix
10
6 Flavoring agent QS
BASE
S.N
O
INGREDIENTS PART
1 Mimusops elengi fruits
bark
2.5
2 Azadirachta indica-bark 2.5
3 Acacia arabica-bark 2.5
HERBAL POWER MIX
S.NO INGREDIENTS PAR
T
1 Cinnamon oil 2
2 Clove oil 2
3 Peppermint 2
4 Neem, Karangia
oils
4
FLAVOUR –ESSENTIONAL OIL
MIX

31. TOOTHPASTE
31
 These are pastes meant for cleaning teeth from
tartar and plaque.
Formula:
S.
NO
INGREDIENTS %
1 Herbal tooth
powder
70
2 Detergent 3
3 Flavouring agent 3
4 Water 20
5 Sweetener 4
6 Glycerin Q.S
7 Sodium alginate Q.S
S.
NO
INGREDIENTS PART
1 Clove oil 2
2 Cinnamon oil 2
3 Peppermint oil 2
FLAVOURING AGENT
BASE

32. TATAR REMOVER
32
 Tartar and its incrustation are dissolved by the
herbal powder mix. Thus, it act as a tartar
remover and a polishing product.
S. NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Siliceous earth 80
2 Celite powder 5
3 Soap powder 2
4 Magnesium
carbonate
5
5 Menthol 1
6 Clove oil 1
7 Cinnamon oil 1
8 Herbal powder mix 5
9 Preservatives QS
S.NO INGREDIENTS PART
1 Cocoa powder 10
2 Prunus
amygdalus
tree root bark
2
HERBAL EXTRACTS MIX
BASE
Formula

33. GARGLING SOLUTION
33
 Gargling solutions made up of herbal powder
and water are useful in taking care of the oral
mouth, making it free from any inflammation,
pain or bleeding of gum and tooth cavities.
 These are generally used whenever there is
either a throat or gum or teeth infection in the
oral cavity.
S. NO INGREDIENTS %
1 Terminalia chebula-
power
5
2 Ficus benghalensis 5
3 Punica granatum-
powder
5
Formula

34. MOUTHWASH
34
 Gargles and mouthwashes are used after
cleaning the oral cavity, leaving it fresh and
free from bad odor, with tingling effect.
 Mouthwashes are mostly used to mask any
foul odor of oral cavity and also keep it fresh.
S.NO INGREDIENT %
1 Thymol 1
2 Peppermint oil 2
3 Wintergreen oil 2
4 Alcohol 3
5 Water 80
6 Glycerin 2
7 Glucose 5
8 Colour Q.S
Formula

35. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN SKIN
CARE
35
 The herbal approach of proper skin care is
principally based on three essential steps.
Cleanse
Nourish
 Moisture
 Whatever any type of skin; these three steps
are external care of the skin to protect from
the constant effect of environment and skins
natural process of cell degradation decay.
 Therefore in order to help the skin look
young, our beauty products & treatments
must provide:

36. 36
Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells.
Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth.
Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation
and repair.
Improve capillary blood flow.
Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish
all layers of skin.
Cleansing agent:
 Herbal powder to clean and exfoliate the skin
on a daily basis.
 Which remove the dust, dead cell & dirt that
close the pores on the skin.
 Some of the common cleansers include

37. 37
 Face pack containing turmeric and lime
juice removes dead skin cell & refresh the
face.
Moisturizing &Nourishing :
 It helps the skin to become soft & supple.
 It shows a glow and less prone to aging.
 Some of the herbal moisturizer include
Vegetable glycerin, Sorbitol, Rose water,
Jojaba oil, Aloe vera, Coconut oil, Sandal
wood oil, Almond oil.
 It helps to improve blood circulation,
straighten the connective tissue , there by
reducing the wrinkles to keep the skin in
good condition.

38. 38
Skin type Herbs Fruits face
mask
I Dry skin Rubia cardifolia, Sariva, Triphala,
Glycyrriza Glabra, Sesame oil,
Sunflower oil, Aloe , Coconut oil,
Jojoba oil.
Banana or
Avocado
pulp
II
Sensitive
skin
Curcuma longa, Santalam alba,
Triphala, Azadirachta indica.
Banana or
Pineapple
pulp
III Oil skin Tulasi, Nimba, Terminalia arjuna,
Triphala, Curcuma longa, Mustaka
in mostard oil,
Strawberry
or papaya
pulp
HERBAL CLEANING POWDERS

39. HERBAL SKIN PREPARATION
39
Name Important herbal
constituents
uses
Almond lanolin
under eye cream
Almond oil, lanolin Remove dark
circles around the
eyes, nourishes
and clears skin.
Vitaminsed
nourishing cream
Wheat germ oil,
cabbage
Provide skin a
meaning full look
without greasy
Aloe Vera
rehydant cleansing
cream
Aloe Vera , lemon
extract, carrot
extract
Removes
impurities from
skin surface,
without disturbing
its moisture

40. 40
Name Important herbal
constituents
uses
Vitaminised
whitening cream
Almond oil, lactic
acid, vitamin A and
D, corrotin seed
extract
Lightens the skin
color, act as powerful
astringent porcelains
the skin
Honey intensive Honey, sandal wood Effective
moisturizer, excellent
softener, gives
nourishment to the
skin
Apricot luster cream Pure apricot extract,
rose oil
Gives luster to dry
and dull skin
Precious herbs Tulsi, wild turmeric,
date, apricot.
Moisturizer for skin

41. TYPES OF HERBAL CREAM
41
COLD CREAM
 It is an W/O emulsion in which the fat
predominates, but the cooling effect produced
when it is applied to the skin is due to slow
evaporation of the water contained.
Formula:
Almond oil 550 parts
White bees wax 145 parts
Borax 10 parts
Water 290 parts
Rose water 5 parts

42. 42
VANISHING CREAM
 Vanishing creams are also called foundation
creams, It is an O/W emulsion they
disappears when rubbed into skins.
Formula:
 Stearic acid 130 parts
 Borax crystals 28 parts
 Sodium carbonate 12 parts
 Water 740 parts
 Rose water 9 parts
 Patchouli oil 1 part

43. 43
CLEANSING CREAMS
 A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil
emulsion that melts at temperature of body
and spreads readily over the skin.
 The product should not be sticky; after it is
removed , the skin should feel smooth, clean
but not greasy, and relaxed.
Formula of Chamomile cleansing creams
 Chamomile flower 50 parts
 Distilled water 500 parts
 Lemon juice 5 parts
 Sodium benzoate 2 parts

44. 44
CREAM FOR ACNE AND PIMPLES
Formula :
Ingredients
Salmalia malabarica
10gm
(Silk cotton tree thorn powder)
Melia azadirachta (Neem bark powder )
3.0gm
Symplocus racermoso
1.5gm
Curcuma Longa
1.5gm
Berberis aristata
1.2gm

45. 45
Rubia cordifolia ( Manjistha powder)
0.5gm
Randia dumetorum
0.25gm
Quercus infectoria
0.25gm
Acorus calamus
1.10gm
Aloe vera gel(Kumari)
2gm
Alum powder & Curd qs
20gm
ALMOND CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

46. 46
NOURISHING CREAM
Formula
 Coconut oil - 45ml
 Olive oil -30ml
 Almond oil -15 ml
 Coca butter -30gm
 Emulsifying wax - 30gm
 Bees wax -15gm
 Borax -10gm
 Distilled water -45ml

47. 47
ALL PURPOSE FACE PACK
Formula:
Sandalwood fine powder - 5gm
Nagarmotha fine powder - 5gm
Ashwagandaha fine powder - 5gm
Sariba fine powder - 5gm
Manjistha fine powder - 5gm
Ambahaldi fine powder - 5gm
Turmeric fine powder - 5gm
 Mix this mixture in milk and multani.

48. 48
EYE CREAM FOR DARK CIRCLES
Formula:
Lanolin - 15ml
Almond oil - 22.5ml
Soybean Flour - 5gm
Cold water - 10ml
NIGHT CREAM
Formula:
 Olive oil 1 tablespoon
 Shea butter 1 tablespoon
 Beeswax 1 tablespoon
 Rosewater 1 tablespoon
 Lecithin ¼ teaspoon
 Vitamin E oil 2 capsules

49. 49
FAIRNESS CREAM
 Herbs used : Aloe vera, Walnut, Rose
centifolia, Citrus reticulata, Berberis aristata.
Formula:
Aqueous extract of Berberis aristata - 20mg
Glycyrrhiza glabra - 30mg
Saffron -QS
Coconut water -QS
Oil of sandalwood -0.005
Almond -0.005g
Wheat germ -0.005g

50. HERBAL LOTION
50
FACE LOTION
 This also called bleaching lotions actually
mask, rather then lighten the color of skin.
 These lotions usually contain Alum, Zinc oxide
or Titanium dioxide with various proportion of
alcohol, Glycerol and water.
 As delicate flesh tints may also added , such
products often serves as liquid powder.
Formula:
 Alum 10part
 Zinc sulphate 1 part
 Glycerin 1 part
 Tincture of benzoin 1part
 Essence of Rose 30drop

51. 51
SUN BURN LOTION
 The purpose of sunburn lotion is to assist the
skin in tanning without painful effect.
 The purpose of anti-burning preparation is to
minimize the harmful effects of sunburn.
 The material used for above purpose are
known as sun tanning agent & sunburn
preventive agents respectively =
sunscreens.
 Tanning agents are those sunscreens which
absorb a minimum of 85% UVR(wavelengths
of 2900-3200Å) but transmit UVR wavelength
longer then 3200Å - produce light transient
tan.
 Sunburn preventive agent are those
sunscreens which absorb more than 95% of

52. 52
 Another type of sunburn preventive agent
which scatter the sunlight.
 These include Titanium dioxide, kaolin, Zinc
oxide, Calcium carbonate and magnesium
oxide.
Formula:-
 Lemon juice 5ml
 Xanthan powder 2.5gml
 Castor oil 5ml
 Avocado oil 15ml
 Essential oil 3ml
 Titanium Dioxide 0.2gm
 Hot distilled water 60ml

53. 53
ANTI-WRINKLE LOTION
Formula:
Vitis vinifera (Grapes) 10ml
Citrus lemon 5ml
Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) 20ml
Aloe-vera fresh gel 50ml
MOISTURISING LOTION
Formula:
Aloe-vera juice 1000ml
Wheat germ oil 100ml
Bees wax 50gm

54. 54
 It has a powerful antioxidant that tones and
softens the skin and prevent skin damage
caused by UV & pollution.
 It is suitable for normal and oily skin.
MOISTURIZING LOTION FOR DRY AND
SCALY SKIN
 Formula:
 Rubia cordifolia decoction 50ml
 Aloe-vera juice 50ml
ANTIAGING AGENT
Golden Root( Rhodiola rosea), Carrot,
Gingko.

55. 55
FACE POWDER
 Its prime function the ability to complement skin
color by imparting velvet like finish.
 It enhance the appearance of the skin by
masking the shin due to the secretion of the
sebaceous and sweat gland.
Formula:
 Talc 75 parts
 Zinc oxide 10 parts
 Rice starch 10 parts
 Zinc stearate 5 parts
 Perfume & color q.s

56. RAW MATERIAL USED IN FACE POWDER & THEIR
CHARACTERISTICS
56
Raw material Outstanding characteristics
Talk Slip
Kaolin Absorbency, adhesion
Precipitated calcium carbonate Absorbency, bloom
Magnesium carbonate Absorbency
Zinc & magnesium stearates Adhesion , water proofness
Rice starch Absorbency, bloom
Silica and silicates Absorbency
Titanium dioxide Opacity
Zinc oxide Opacity
Forested-look materials (guanine
bismuthoxychloride, aluminum,)
Sparkle, Pearly effect

57. REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR
HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE
BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH
RESPECT TO PRESERVATIVES,
EMOLLIENTS, FOAMING AGENTS,
EMULSIFIERS AND RHEOLOGY
MODIFIERS.
57

58. COSMOS
58
 COSMOS stands for "cosmetic organic and
natural standard", which sets certification
requirements
for organic and natural cosmetics products in
the europe.
 It was developed by five charters members:
BDIH (germany).
Cosmebio (france).
Ecocert (france).
Icea (italy).
Soil association (great britain).
 The standard is recognized globally by
the cosmetic industry.

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 By adhering to specific guidelines, cosmetics
marketers can use COSMOS signatures, which
are registered trademarks, on packaging to
confirm the products meet minimum industry
requirements to be considered organic or
natural.
What does it contain?
 The cosmos-standard applies to cosmetic
products that are marketed as organic or
natural. Its guiding principles are to:
Promote the use of products from organic
agriculture, and respect biodiversity.
Use natural resources, and respect the
environment.

60. PRESERVATIVES
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 Cosmetic preservatives allowed by Ecocert and
COSMOSE are considered more skin friendly
than some traditional preservatives.
 Preservatives are the chemical substances used to
improve or amplify shelf life of drugs by decreasing
or lowering the oxidation of active and excipients
and by reducing microbial production
 According to the latest Ecocert and
COSMOS standards the following preservatives
are allowed in cosmetic products certified as
natural and organic:

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 Phenoxyethanol – This ingredient is not
approved by COSMOS but it is a common
preservative for natural formulation.
 It has a light rose odor.
 It is effective against some bacteria and fungi.
Also good against pseudomonas.
 It has a wide pH range and is effective from pH
3 – 10.
 Phenethyl Alcohol – This ingredient is
approved by COSMOS and works similarly to
phenoxyethanol. It has a stronger odor.
 Organic acids and their salts – There are a
wide range of organic acids that are effective
as preservatives.

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These include:
 Benzoic acid
 Sodium benzoate
 Sorbic acid
 Potassium sorbate
 Dehydroacetic acid
 Salicylic acid
 These ingredients are mostly approved by the
COSMOS standard and are effective against
fungi and to some extent bacteria.
 They only work at lower pH however so if you
use them you need to formulate below pH 5.0

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 Benzyl Alcohol – This material is effective
against a broad spectrum of microbes.
 While it can be found in nature most of the
benzyl alcohol used commercially is
synthetically produced.
 One drawback is that it is a known allergen.
 There are also some compatibility issues
with benzyl alcohol and nonionic surfactants.
Natural preservative boosters:
 The following ingredients can help disrupt
growth by interfering with the microbial cell
membranes.
 Caprylyl Alcohol
 Caprylic Acid

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 Gluconolactone
 Glyceryl Caprylate
 Ethylhexyglycerin
Other fragrance components have some
preservative boosting activity
 Levulinic Acid
 p-Anisic Acid
There are also some enzymatic systems
that have been successfully employed in
natural cosmetic formulations.
 Glucose Oxidase
 Lactoperoxidase

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Some natural ingredients that have some
antimicrobial functionality.
 They are not broad spectrum effective so
should not be used as the sole preservative
system.
Tea tree oil
Rosemary
Cinnamon
Grapes fruit seed extract
Honeysuckle extract

66. EMOLLIENTS
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 Emollient is a refatting agent, i.e. An ingredient
of a cosmetic formulation that provides the
skin with the fat it needs. It reduces
evaporation and thus increases the moisture
content of the skin.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural
& Organic Cosmetics :
 Candelilla Cera
 Palmitic & Stearic Acid
 Isopropyl Myristate
 Isopropyl Palmitate

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 Jojoba Esters / Sunflower Seed Wax / Acacia
Decurrens Flower Wax / Polyglycerin
 Propanediol
 Pentylene Glycol
 Apricot Kernel Extract
 Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus
Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil (and)
Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Citric Acid
 Beeswax (and) Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

68. EMULSIFIERS
68
 Emulsifiers are used as adjuvants for
combining non-miscible fluids into an emulsion.
 The molecular structure of the emulsifiers
reduces the surface tension between the
hydrophilic and lipophilic constituents, thus
promoting the formation of finely dispersed
mixtures.
 The emulsion stabilizers improve and help to
maintain the stability and shelf-life of
dispersions.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural
& Organic Cosmetics:
 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

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 Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride
 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Stearate (and)
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat
Protein
 Glyceryl Oleate
 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
 Coco-Betaine
 Cocamidopropyl Betaine
 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

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 Sorbitan Oleate (and) Hydrogenated
Castor Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic
Acid
 Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Hydrogenated
Castor Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic
Acid
 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and)
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
 Apricot Kernel Oil

71. FOAMING AGENTS
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 Surfactants are surface active agents widely used in
cosmetics products specially in Shampoos,
Dentifrices, etc. These compounds are
characterized by foam production and reduction of
surface or interfacial tension.
According to COSMOS standard for Natural
& Organic Cosmetics:
 Coco-Betaine
 Cocamidopropyl Betaine
 Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
 Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside Coco-Glucoside
 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
 Decyl glucoside

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 Lauryl Glucoside
 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
 Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and)
Lauryl Glucoside
 Coco-Glucoside (and) Disodium Lauryl
Sulfosuccinate (and) Glycerin
 Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Glycerin
(and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Sodium Cocoyl
Glutamate (and) Sodium Lauryl Glucose
Carboxylate
 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
 Sodium Coco Sulfate

73. RHEOLOGY MDIFIERS
73
 The term Rheology derived from two Greek words
namely rheo (to flow) and logos (science).
 Rheology is the science that deals with the
deformation of matter under the influence of
stresses like tensile stress, shearing stress, etc.,
 It deals with the fluids flow.
 Rheological additives generally focused to
Thickeners.
 Their primary roles in flow behavior may include
detergency, emulsification, foam stability or
conditioning.

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According to COSMOS standard for Natural &
Organic Cosmetics:
 Xanthan Gum
 Sclerotium Gum
 Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum
 Cetearyl Alcohol
 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol
 Apricot Kernel Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable
Oil
 Cellulose Gum
 Microcrystalline Cellulose
 Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum
 Avocado Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

75. CHALLENGES IN FORMULATING HERBAL
COSMETICS
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 Natural cosmetic and beauty products are
vogue now a days and cosmetic marketers
around the world are looking to launch their
own version that appeals to green-seeking
consumers.
 However, making natural cosmetics is fraught
with difficulties stemming from the fact that
beauty products do not exist in nature.
 The biggest challenges in making natural
cosmetics include:
Defining what is natural

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Defining Natural
 Before review natural cosmetics, it is
helpful to first discuss what is meant by the
term natural.
 For this discussion, use a three-level
classification system of natural cosmetics:
 True natural - Ingredients are isolated
from a plant and chemically purified, but
otherwise unchanged.
 Acceptable natural - Ingredients
conform to some acceptable natural
standard that allows some chemical
modification.

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 The majority of natural products on the
market would be considered green washed.
Making Functional Products
 The biggest challenge to making natural
cosmetics is that consumers have an
expectation of how well products are
supposed to work.
 While consumers might say they want green
or natural products, they really want products
that work.
 When formulating natural cosmetics, it
becomes difficult because natural or naturally
derived ingredients do not work as well as

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 This is especially true for surfactants, colorants
and preservatives.
Surfactants
 Surfactants are the most versatile and important
ingredients in cosmetic formulations.
 Unfortunately, there are not many surfactants
that naturally occur, so trying to make natural
formulas with surfactants is a real challenge.
 True natural - There are not many natural
surfactants that are adequate for use as
cleansers.

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 The closest are saponins. These are
glycoside compounds that have the ability to
form foam when put in a water solution.
 They are found in plants like yucca (Yucca
schidigera), soapwort (Saponaria officinalis),
soapbark (Quillaja saponaria) and soapnut
(Sapindus spp).
 The majority of commercial saponins are
derived from soapbark or soapnut via water
and alcohol extraction.
 Unfortunately, formulators reported using
saponins for cleansing products have been
disappointed in their performance.

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 Acceptable natural - according to USDA
natural organic standards, there are no natural
surfactants you can use.
 Some companies like nourish organic use a
chemical trick where they create a
surfactant in situ by including natural
ingredients that chemically react to make a
soap.
 In one formula, the coconut oil will saponify
with the potassium hydroxide.
 If you are following the cosmos standard,
there are many surfactants that are
acceptable.

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 The ones typically used for cleansing
products are lauryl glucoside, decyl
glucoside, caprylyl/decyl glucoside, coco
glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine.
 COSMOS standard even allows for the use
of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) since it can be
derived from natural sources.
Green washing natural -
 The use of cleansing surfactants like SLS is
probably not a good idea.
 Sulfates have a bad reputation, and even
though they are considered natural by the
COSMOS standard.

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 However, some companies simply replace
sulfates with other synthetic anionic surfactants.
 These include ingredients like taurates,
sarcosinates, and glutamates.
Colorants
 In United States, there is no ingredient more
highly regulated in cosmetics than colorants.
 It is illegal to use any ingredient (no matter the
source) to color cosmetics that is not approved
by FDA for such use.
 This means if you producing natural cosmetics
the colors you can use will be strictly limited.

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 The majority of approved colorants are
synthetic ingredients.
 Even mineral ingredients like iron oxides, zinc
oxide and titanium dioxide are all synthetic.
 The only approved versions must be
synthetically produced in the lab.
 The naturally occurring minerals are
dangerous.
 The synthetic versions have much less
contamination.
 There are some colorants don't require FDA
certification and come directly from nature
such as annatto, chlorophyllin, carmine, henna
and caramel.

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 Unfortunately, there is a limited range of colors
ingredients can provide.
 The strategy most of natural cosmetic
companies follow to either use the direct-
from-nature colorants or use standard
colorants.
Preserving Products
 We use natural ingredients becomes more
challenging because microbes are found in
nature.
 Effective preservatives such as Parabens,
formaldehyde donors do not fit with a natural
theme, so we need alternatives such as
Phenoxyethanol, Phenethyl alcohol, organic

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 Phenoxyethanol and Phenethyl alcohol have
a distinct odor that is difficult to cover.
 Organic acids only work as preservatives at
lower pH levels, which is not ideal for certain
types of beauty care products.
 Benzyl alcohol is a known allergen.
 Other natural materials like tea tree oil,
rosemary or cinnamon are not broad
spectrum enough to work as a stand alone
preservative.

86. REFERENCES
86
 Kuntal Das., Herbal plants and their
Application in Cosmeceuticals, page No:46-
83.
 Vimaladevi.m., Text book of Herbal cosmetics,
Page no:74-103.
 Rajesh Kumar Nema Kamal Singh Rathore
Bal krishna Dubey., Text book of Cosmetics,
Page no:257-285.
 http://chemistscorner.com/3-challenges-to-
formulating-natural-products/

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 https://www.naturalproductsinsider.com/beauty
/challenges-formulating-natural-cosmetic-line
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmos_(standar
d)
 https://cosmos-standard.org/the-cosmos-
standard/
 http://www.cosmos-standard-
rm.org/verifmp.php
 https://www.bergschmidt.de/en/Cosmetic/c21_
emollient.php#

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