1. Unique Luxur y 33
BURBERRY PRORSUM
32 www.uniqueestates.com.au
The classics were all there, of
course, they always are. The inks,
the charcoals and the blacks that
traditionally catch the eye of the
up-and-coming design-savvy man
about town.
Only this fall 2015 season Burberry’s
design team, led superbly by the
talented Mr Christopher Bailey, have
ensured they are relegated to the
flip side, warming the bench while
the real stars shine. Colour and lots
of it is the true star of Bailey’s ball
with inks, greens, ochres, camels,
purples, charcoals, reds, fuchsias
and turquoise reigning supreme.
Labelled ‘Classically Bohemian’,
the collection pairs paisley and
floral shirts inspired by quilts from
near the designer’s birthplace with
ponchos or dramatic fringed shawls.
“Decorative and free” was the way
Bailey described the mood and he
couldn’t have been more on the
money.
Silhouettes came in the form of
Chesterfields, pea coats, topcoats,
quilted jackets, donkey jackets and
bomber jackets, all tailored with
precise Burberry precision.
Mirror embroidered shirts, trousers
and coats and relaxed linen
rightfully claim their spots while
glamour appears via leopard-printed
shearling, felted wool cashmere and
bonded suede fabrications.
Fashion
by Tracey Porter
MeN’s
Tartans, checks and plaids are everywhere for men this
season proving now is as good a time as any to
celebrate those Celtic roots.
Navy felted wool cashmere poncho, - $3,495
Ochre yellow fringed suede document case - $1,950
Ebony leather lace-up Derby shoes - $1,225
www.Burberry.com
Stockists: 02 8296 8588
2. 34 www.uniqueestates.com.au
LOUIS VUITTON
As a brand synonymous with the
world of art, innovation and travel,
French design house Louis Vuitton
loves nothing more than taking its
customers on an epic journey when
presenting its new season collections.
And the pre-fall 2015 offering is no
exception.
This year the label’s 36-year-old style
director Kim Jones chose one of
his favourite designers Christopher
Nemeth (1959 - 2010) as his muse
and the site of Vuitton’s first store
outside of France – London – as his
key source of inspiration.
Jones, himself is a graduate of the
city’s famed Central St Martin’s
College of Art and Design College,
drew on the emergence of rebellious
fashion movements which were
elevated from the street to the
catwalk in the British capital in the
late 1980s for the creative behind his
offering.
Boasting an array of chic outerwear
and youthful separates, sweaters and
turtlenecks dominate while bomber
jackets constructed from suede
and layered over motif scarves also
appear in Jones’ line up.
Leather aviator jackets with sheer
lining and short plaid coats are
among the standouts of the collection
while baggy corduroy trousers
complete the modern man look.
Unique Luxur y 35
Silk & Cotton Scarf - $655
PDV Bag (calf leather) - $5,450
“Front Row” Shoes (embossed calf leather) - $900
www.louisvuitton.com
Stockists: 1300 883 880
3. Unique Luxur y 37
DIOR HOMME
36 www.uniqueestates.com.au
The preppy college adolescent has
been given a stylish new makeover
courtesy of Kris Van Assche.
As the man charged with guiding
the iconic fashion house’s
menswear offering into a new era,
the 39-year-old Belgian artistic
director has taken the traditional
concept of sportswear for pre-fall
2015 and turned it on its ear.
Fusing a contemporary palette of
ochre with traditional uniform shades
of green, blue and grey, he has
merged the two to deliver a locker
room look sure to appease anyone
with XY chromosomes.
Drawing inspiration from the year
1947 – the year when the brand’s
legendary name sake Christian
Dior presented his first collection
to the press and with it became
an international success – he has
introduced the numbers 4 and 7 as
a stylish motif across the range,
appearing on items from sweaters
to suiting.
Bringing the yuppie code up to date,
suit jackets appear with a mix of two
or four buttons but are refreshed with
leather sleeves or knitted cuffs.
As can be seen with many
collections this season, tartan,
checks and plaids can be seen on
everything from coats to suits and
shirts to sweatshirts.
Leather is used sparingly, usually via
embossing and detail.
Dior Timepieces Automatic Chronograph Movement Watch - $6,400
Navy blue leather backpack - $4,200
Blue Suede Loafer - $1,200
www.dior.com
Stockists: 02 9229 4600
4. 38 www.uniqueestates.com.au
PRADA
Unique Luxur y 39
Continuing her obsession with
investigating the influence that men’s
fashion has on women’s fashion and
vice versa, Miuccia Prada elected to
show her men’s and women’s fall
offerings under one roof this season.
With the exception of a hint of beige
in some of the men’s shirting and
accessories on offer, almost the
entire collection appeared in black,
grey or navy.
Where usually she would leave
it up to journalists, buyers and
consumers themselves to interpret
the meaning behind the collections,
for her fall/winter 2015 men’s
offering she supplied notes that
offered the briefest of thoughts
behind her new offering.
She stated: “This first part of the
Autumn/Winter 2015 fashion show
continues Prada’s analysis of the
relationship between men and
women. What are the unexpected
possibilities, the various relationships,
that may occur between the way
men and women can or would
dress? The way they represent
themselves? This is a subject always
under investigation. The influences
of one upon the other are non-linear,
asymmetrical, unobvious but always
profound. Gender is a context and
context is often gendered.”
The freedom to interpret the looks
a number of different ways was
further evidenced in the key pieces
on offer where men’s and women’s
ensembles, delivered in both matte
and polished fabrics, were melded
together, appearing almost gender-
neutral. Just the way Madame Prada
prefers it.
Bag - $4,700 - $4,700
Leather brogue - $1,120
Two tone loafer - $1,250
www.Prada.com
Stockists: 02 9223 1688
5. Unique Luxur y 41
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
If anyone ever had any doubts
about Zegna design head Stefano
Pilati’s green credentials they will
almost certainly be considering a
rethink following the release of the
fashion house’s Fall/Winter 2015
menswear line.
Zegna is already considered
something of a leader in this
field with its impressive eco
credentials coming via its
consistent commitment to social
and environmental activities via
its development and production of
yarn, cloth and garments made from
natural fibres.
However this season Pilati takes the
concept of the eco-leader theme and
runs with it. The former YSL head
talking extensively to experts in
sustainable fabrics before devouring
a Harris Tweed Authority archive
to base the collection around,
selecting on both “authenticity”
and “recyclability”. Selecting more
than 20 cuts, he duplicates them
in cashmere or cashmere silk. In
one case even covering the tweed
with recycled plasticised coating. In
addition he adds plaids and black
leather, velvets and corduroys.
In styling his “eco-leaders” Pilati’s
creates uniforms of sorts with jackets
boasting softly sculpted detail with
pleated or gathered pockets. Pants
are either elasticated at the bottom
or multifunctional.
His colour selection is based around
a palette of greys, charcoals, browns,
khakis, sages, mints, salmons,
oxblood, plum, black and dark blues.