THIS SLIDE GIVES US AN UNDERSTANDING OF HOW RAW NECKLINE EDGES CAN BE FINISHES. ASIDE ATTACHING COLLAR, THE NECKLINE CAN BE FINISHED ON ITS OWN

2. MS. PEACE AKOSUA TSEKPO
VOCATIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
HOME ECONOMICS UNIT (CLOTHING AND TEXTILES)

3. The neckline is an important part of a garment that
must be hard-wearing therefore time and care should be
spent on it. When the garment has no collar, it is
possible to finish the neckline neatly and simply with a
facing, piping or binding, but this must be sewn very
accurately for an elegant appearance.
BASIC NECKLINE TREATMENTS

4. The neckline of garments can be finished in a number of
ways. They can be finished to be flat and smooth or they can
be finished by adding other features to form an extension on
the neckline. There exist a variety of neck treatments.
Necklines can be bound or faced. Collars are also used to
finish necklines.

5. Normally a facing pattern is shaped to fit the neckline and is
included in the pattern. If a facing pattern is not included then the
facing strip should be cut on bias. When the inside curve of a
neckline is bound, stretch the bias into a curve then press before
attaching it. All necklines should be stay-stitched before making
up, and most necklines keep their shape better if they are
interfaced.

6. Shaped facing for necklines
Here the neck edge is finished by reinforcing it with a hidden
facing. Whatever the shape of the finished neckline-square,
front ‘V’, bateau (boat- shaped) round or standing- the
method of fitting the facing is similar to the one given below.
The facing may be fitted onto the right side of the garment as
part of the design, and may be of contrasting fabric, or
stitched with contrasting thread, as a decoration.

7. General Method
1. Stay stich the neck edge by machining each piece each piece next to the seam line, just
inside the seam allowance. This prevents stretching during making up. Interface the facing.
2. Pin and tack to the bodice pieces together, matching balance markings. Try on and adjust
for fit.
3. Stitch and press the bodice pieces together on the seam line.
4. Then insert a zip if required.

8. 5. Prepare the facing by pinning the pieces together, right sides together, matching the
pattern notches.
6. Tack and machine on the seam line. Trim these seam allowance to 10mm and press
open.
7. Neaten the outer edge of the facing.
8. With the bodice right side out, pin the facing (wrong side out) to the neck edge. Check
that the pattern notches and the shoulder seams match exactly. Tack into place.

9. 9. Machine along the seam line round the neck edge, pivoting at any corners and making
straight lines or smooth curves according to the style.
10. Clip curves or corners in the seam allowance.
11. Trim away the facing seam allowance to 3mm and the bodice seam allowance to 6mm.
press the seam stitching.

10. 12. Turn to the wrong side and press the seam allowance up onto the wrong side of the facing.
13. Machine along the facing close to the neck seam, through all layers. This under stitching will prevent
the facing rolling over to the right side.
14. Fold the facing onto the wrong side of the bodice, rolling the edge so that the seamed edge falls just
inside and does not show from the right side. Tack round neck edge through all layers. Press the facing.
15. Hem the free edge of the facing to the seam allowances of the shoulder seams, not to the bodice.

11. 16. Fold the ends of the facing under and slipstitch to the zip tape, at least 3mm from the teeth.
Press. Sew a hook and eye on the facing ends above the zip.

12. The Slashed or ‘V’ shaped
 Usually the pattern is marked indicating slashed opening of the garment.
 The facing should be attached to the garment before slashing.
 Place right sides together. Pin and tack facing to the garment. The facing should cover
the marked slash area.
 Tack a short length of fabric or seam binding over the facing at the point of the ‘V’, as
reinforcement.

13.  Machine the facing to the neckline edge. Continue the machining down
the front 6mm from the centre then taper the machining to a point at
the lower end of the opening. Make one stitch across the point before
starting along the second side.
 Machine stitch a second time round the point, using a fine stitch.
 Cut or slash between machined lines
 Remove the tacking and then turn the facing to the inside part of the
garment.
 Under stitch the facing and catchstitch the facing down at the seams.
 Press the facing to the wrong side of the garment then tack or slip-
stitch facing invisibly to the garment.

15. The Collarless Cardigan or Jacket
 This type of garment usually has fold back facings and a front
opening. The neck and front edges should be taped to
prevent them stretching during making up or in wear.
 Staystitch the neck edges. Mark the centre front and fold
lines.
 Attach the interfacing.
 Pin, tack and machine the bodice shoulder seam, easing
where marked. Trim the shoulder seam allowances to 13mm
and the press open

16.  Pin, tack and machine the back neck facing to the front
facings at the shoulders. Press the seams open and trim the
seam allowances.
 Neaten the free edge of the facing.

17.  With the bodice right side out, fold back the facings along the front fold lines-
the facing will be wrong side uppermost. Make sure that the back-neck edge
facing is also in place, with wrong side out.
 Pin and tack along the seam line round the neck edge. Tack a strip of fabric,
or a piece of seam binding, over the seam lines from the shoulder to the
bottom of the front opening. Catch stitch the tape into place down the fronts,
then machine round the neck edge on the seam line.

18. Bound, Piped or Corded Neckline
Binding of any width can be used to finish all types necklines, particularly
curved shapes where the bias binding will stretch to fit. A crossway strip can
be cut from the garment fabric, or bought bias binding in matching or
contrasting colours may be used. By filling the binding with cord, a piped or
corded edge may be produced making a firm and attractive edge.

19. 1. Unfaced Bateau (or Boat Shaped) Neckline
This very simple finish is used on loosely fitted dresses and jerkins which
have no neck fastening.
a. Staystitch the bodice neck edge just outside the seam line.
b. Stitch and press the bodice darts, then tack the bodice together for fitting.
Make any necessary alterations so that the neckline is exactly the right
size, and that it lies flat.
c. Machine, and press the shoulder and side seams.

20. d. Press under 3 mm of the seam allowance of the neckline
and shoulder seam.
e. Fold the neck edges to the wrong side along the seam line,
pressing the shoulder seam.
f. Slipstitch the edge of the hem to the bodice, picking up
one thread each time so that stitches do not show on the right
side.
g. Remove tacking. Turning right side out. Press.

21. Cowl Neckline
The soft drape of a cowl neckline is formed by setting in a yoke cut on the cross.
This yoke is usually mounted to give it body so that it drapes well. A piece of
fabric cut on the straight grain is also added so that the neck area is supported
and does not fall out of shape.
 Mount the lining onto the yoke sections.
 Pin, tack and machine and the mounted yoke sections at the shoulders. Press,
clip and trim the seams.

22. a. Stitch the darts in the back of the stay piece and
press them to the centre back.
b. Join the shoulder seams of the stay with bias
binding.
c. Tack the stay piece to the yoke, wrong side
together.
d. Tack and stitch the yoke to the garment, finishing
the corners carefully

23. e. Pin in the back-neck zip and blind stitch the facing to the
lining fabric. Some fabrics need a weight attaching to pull the
cowl down into soft drapes. Experiment to find the right size
and place for the weight.

24. 1. One Piece Neckline and Armhole Facing (Also called a combination Facing)
In this method one piece of facing neatens both neckline and armholes. For
garments made from thick fabrics the facing may be cut from lining fabric. The
method differs slightly according to the width of the shoulder. For shoulder wider
than 5cm
a. Prepare the neck and armhole edges by staystitching.
b. Attach interfacing if required.

25. a. Pin, tack and machine garment and facing shoulder seams
separately, press open and trim.
b. Neaten long un-notched facing edges as these will not be
stitched to the garment.
c. With right sides together pin and tack the facing to the
garment. Carefully match the balance marks on the neck
and armhole edges. Machine on the seam lines. Trim and
layer or grade the seam allowances, clipping the curves.

26. d. Tack the facing into place, press carefully and catch stitch
facing the side seams.
For shoulders narrower than 5cm;
In this method the shoulder seams are finished as the final stage,
because it would be impossible to pull the facing through the
narrow openings on the shoulders.
a. Staystitch and interface the neck and armholes as before.
b. Prepare the bodice and facing as before but do not stitch the
shoulder seams.

27. c. Make a tiny, temporary tuck in the garment at shoulders so that the facing will be
slightly smaller, and therefore hidden, later.
d. With right sides together, pin, tuck and machine facing to garment along the neck and
armhole seamlines. Trim and layer or grade, the seam allowances.
e. Remove the pins in the temporary tucks then under stitch the facing to the seam allowances, as far
along as possible.
f. Fold the facing back and stitch the bodice shoulder seams. Sew in the machine threads securely at
both ends. Press the seam line.

28. g. Trim the seam allowances on the facing to 6mm and
press them under on the seamline.
h. Sew the folded edges together with tiny stitches.
Press.

29. References:
 Gavor et al. clothing and textiles for schools and colleges,
Adwinsa Publications (GH) Ltd (2014).