Buyer manual & measuring of 3 garments

1. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
JODHPUR
APPAREL STANDARDS AND SPECIFICATIONS QUALITY CHECK
TOPIC- BUYER MANUAL AND HOW TO MEASURE THREE
GARMENTS
SUBMITTED TO: SUBMITTED BY:
Mr. Ishwar Kumar Muskan Jain
(Assistant Professor) Raman Kumar Ravi
Sanchalika Sadh
Shilpy Gupta
Vaishali Daksh
Varun Pal

2. Buyer Quality Manual
 A complete guide in miniature form which help in understanding
the norms , procedure and standard to be followed while
prosecuting an order for a particular buyer.

3. Necessities of a Quality manual
 This Manual will guide Internal QA through each stage of their
assignment:
New production
Monitoring production
Performing In-process and shipment audits
Communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives

4. Buyer Quality Manual…..For Vendor
 Measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture
that buyer products.
 Ensure vendors understand buyer expectations in categories such as
 Product’s visual appearance,
 Measurement accuracy
 And packing execution

5. Content of a Quality Manual…For Vendor
1.Fabric Technical data
Fabric testing report
Fabric washing instruction

6. Content of a Quality Manual..For Vendor
2. Wash Care Instruction Guidelines
It will depend on the type of fabric. The manual will guide the
exporter regarding the requirement care instruction for that
particular fabric.

7. Content of a Quality Manual
3. Fabric Inspection Guidelines and inspection report format
 Roll ticket information
 Fabric quantity to be inspected
 Fabric inspection report
 Equipment
 Color continuity record
 Inspection procedure

8. Content of a Quality Manual
4. Minimum manufacturing requirements for knitted or Woven
garments
 Stitch and seam type
 Machinery requirement
 Embellishment safety
 Trim and accessories attaching and precaution

9. Content of a Quality Manual
5. Wash test performance
 Evaluate the care instruction
 Measure the garment before wash
 Twisting
 Attach staining cloth
 Perform dry/wet rubbing
 Iron/stretch the garment

10. Content of a Quality Manual
6. Fabric Shade Record
 Fabric description
 Color Description
 Light used
 Shade Coming
 Roll No
 Roll Qty
 Total Qty in that particular shade
 Country Planned

11. Content of a Quality Manual..For Vendor
7. Folding and Packing Instruction
 Maximum and minimum Weight of carton

12. Content of a Quality Manual
8.LABELLING /MARKING on Carton
 Cartons or garment bags are to be externally clearly marked with:
 Brand Name (ie Target, Kmart, etc)
 Name of Country specific (ie Australia or New Zealand)
 Port of Discharge (ie Melbourne)
 Order Number
 Quantity per outer pack
 Made in (Country of Origin)
 Carton number (ie …….of…)
 Gross carton weight
 Placement of sticker on carton(either top or front)

13. Content of a Quality Manual
PROTECTIVE POLY BAG
 Suppliers are required to comply with the following polybag/carton liner standards.
 Polybags /carton liners must be free of Butylated Hydroxyl/toluene (BHT).
 Garments must have no more than 6cm to 12cm excess at the bottom and should be heat
sealed or taped closed.
 Poly bags must be wide enough and long enough to cover the garment without wrinkling.
Warnings on Poly Bags and Carton Liners
 The number of print repeats is optional
 Font size

14. Content of a Quality Manual…For Vendor
Folding Technique
 Flat Pack
 Dead Man Fold
 Half Fold

15. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
1. Factory Visit Procedures
Before visiting a factory, a internal QA representative must carry out the following:
 Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list.
 Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.
 Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.
 Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.
 Obtain the approved sample.
 Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).
 Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and
faxes as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.
 Obtain approved production schedule

16. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
 AQL to be Followed for particular product type.
 A manual Differentiate between critical, major and minor Defect

17. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
In process inspection
In-process inspection forms
 In-Process Inspection Report
 In-Process Audit Worksheet
 In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)

18. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
Cutting Inspection Procedures
 Verify and record fabric test reports.
 Perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut
pieces)
 Inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report.
 Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.
 If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production
representative should be contacted for corrective action.
 If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise,
the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective
action

19. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
Various Audit
 Packing Audit
 Visual audit

20. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures
 All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production
approved standards, and must reflect correct country of origin and
fiber/component content.
 Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production
schedules can be met.
 Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at
least six pieces of each operator’s semi-finished goods to check for
workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate In-process
inspection report.
 Check hand/color against approved standards.

21. Content of a Quality Manual… For Buyer QA
 Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.
 Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.
 Check that all small parts are securely attached.
 Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process
Visual Inspection Worksheet
 Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory
management.
 If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production
representative should be contacted

22. How to measure men’s formal shirt
 COLLAR
Measure your collar size by placing the
tape from one end of the collar to other
end. To get the most comfortable fit, place
two fingers between the tape measure and
the neck when measuring.
 SLEEVE
Sleeve measurements are obtained by
measuring from the top shoulder seam
to the cuff as shown.

23.  CHEST
Take the tape measure and wrap it around
the widest part of your chest. Keep the tape
measure straight and level at back and
parallel to ground.
 WAIST
Measure around your natural waistline
which is the narrowest part of your waist.

24.  LENGTH
Length measurements are obtained by
measuring the length of the shirt from the
top of the shoulder to the hemline of the
shirt as shown.

25. How to measure men’s trouser
 HALF WAIST
- Button up the pants.
- Lay the garment out on a flat surface.Take
care to pull any wrinkles and fullness from
the back panels.
- Measure from one side of the waist to the
other

26.  HALF HIPS
- Measure the distance between the two hip
points “C” & “D” as shown by image on
the left.
 FRONT RISE
- Measure from the crotch seam – point
“K” as shown in the left image(the point
where the inseams meet) to the top of
the waistband (point “L”).

27.  BACK RISE
- Measure from the crotch seam- point
“K” in the image on the left (the point
where the inseams meet) to the top of
the waistband (point “M”).
 INSEAM
- Measure the inseam distance from
Crotch, where the front and
backseams meet, point “G” to the
bottom of the leg, point “H”, at the
length you wish to wear bearing in
mind whether you wish to cover the
boots or shoes.

28.  HALF THIGH
- Measure at the crotch seam line – from
point “E” as shown on the left image to
the outside of the leg, point “F”,
parallel to the waist band.
 OUTSEAM/ PANT LENGTH
- Measure the distance from the top of
the waist band to the bottom of the
hem.

29.  HALF KNEE
- The knee is positioned about 13”
from the crotch seam halfway down.
Measure the distance between points
“N” and “O” as shown in the picture
on the left.
 HALF HEM/ LEG OPENING
- Measure from one side of the leg
opening to the other side – from
points “P” to “Q” as shown in the
picture on the left.

30. How to measure women’s top
 BUST
The top is measured across the chest.
The measurement is taken from side
seam to side seam directly under the
armhole or sleeve. In the picture below
the measurement is 18". This
measurement is then doubled to provide
a measurement of Bust - 36"

31.  SHOULDER
Shoulder measurements are obtained by
measuring across the shoulders, seam to
seam, as shown below. The measurement
in this case would be shown as Shoulder -
16".
 SLEEVE
Sleeve measurements are obtained by
measuring from the top shoulder seam to the
cuff as shown below. The measurement in
this case would be shown as Sleeve - 15".

32.  LENGTH
Length measurements are obtained by
measuring the length of the top from
the top of the shoulder to the hemline
as shown. The measurement in this case
would be shown as Length - 27"

33. Thank You