Chemical peels are a form of accelerated exfoliation that uses chemical solutions to remove the outer layers of the skin. They work by dissolving the bonds between skin cells to speed up the natural skin cell migration process. Chemical peels can be classified as superficial, medium, or deep depending on the strength of the chemical solution and desired depth of penetration. Potential side effects include temporary redness, peeling, and changes in skin pigmentation, though risks can be reduced through proper screening and preparation. Chemical peels provide benefits such as smoother skin texture and reduced signs of aging.

1. WHY CHEMICAL PEELS ARE AWESOME
by Valeriya Semenyuk

2. AGENDA
WHAT IS IT?
WHY BOTHER?
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
HOW DOES IT WORK?
CLASSIFICATION & TAXONOMY
HOW DO I START?
SIDE EFFECTS

3. WHAT ARE CHEMICAL
PEELS?
Accelerated form of exfoliation
Can be performed on face, back and hands
Using destructive chemical agents or a solution
Creates a controlled wound
Speeds up the natural migration process of skin cells
Strength and depth matter

4. WHY BOTHER?
FAST RESULTS
ECONOMICAL & EASY, BUT…
YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING

5. A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
Started 5000 years ago.
Ancient Egyptian used particles of alabaster mixed with milk and honey.
Cleopatra bathed in sour milk.
French women applied fermented wine to their faces to improve the quality
of skin
1882: physician started to use phenol. German dermatologist reported using
salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol and TCA.
1930-40s Chemical peels come to US from France
1990s 50% salicylic acid was reported satisfactory results on hands and
forearms of patient with actinic ally induced pigmentation changes.

6. HOW IT WORKS:
•Chemical exfoliation and peels are a way to speed up the
natural migration process of skin cells. Dissolve the bonds
between cells . The shedding skin cells send signals for more
cell division, which in turn forces keratinocytes to the top of the
stratum corneum.
• It uses an enzyme and acids to help speed up the breakdown
of keratin, which is the protein in skin

7. CLASSIFICATION OF CHEMICAL
PEELS
Superficial peels
Medium peels
Deep peels
Buffered
Nonbuffered

8. SUPERFICIAL PEELS
Enzymes (Papain, pumpkin, pineapple)
AlphaHydroxyAcid agents ( Lactic, glycolic, malic, tartic, citric)
BetaHydroxyAcid agents (Salicylic acid)
Azelaic acid (15%) - lightening
Flower acid - hibiscus chalices
Jessners - salicilyc, lactic, resorcinol at 14%
Acetic acid - red wine vinegar, antioxidant
Retinol - retinoic acid
TCA - Lower %

9. MEDIUM TO DEEP PEELS
Baker-Gordon formula - phenol, croton oil, septisol soap
Medical TCA - Trichloracetic acid - penetrates into dermis
Phenol Acid - 88% solution

10. ANATOMY OF THE SKIN

11. SKIN ANATOMY

12. ENZYME PEEL:
PAPAIN, PUMPKIN, PINEAPPLE
Derived from fruit juices
Very superficial stratum corneum
Good for Sensitive, dry and dehydrated skin, acneic skin
(which does not tolerate other types of peels), aging, fine
lines, superficial hyperpigemntation
Excellent for home care

13. LACTIC, MALIC, TARTARIC
ACIDS
Lactic acid - derived from sour milk, one of the lightest in
AHA family
Malic acid - derived from apples, light peel, it can open
pores, positive effect on acne
Tartaric acid - derived from grapes
All good for dry, dehydrated skin, sensative, excellent for
home care

14. GLYCOLIC ACID
Derived from a fruit acid derived from sugar cane
Three basic strength: 30% (sensative, dry skin or oily),40% (dry,
dehydrated, normal skin), 50% (maturing skin, faster results)
Water-soluble, great penetration due to small size molecule
Loosing up horny layer and exfoliate superficial level of skin, stimulate
collagen growth
Has to be neutral to stop action because can cause irritation turn white
“frosting”
Nonbuffering solution of Glycol acid only for doctors use.

15. “FROSTING”
during using a glycolic peel or Jester peel, it happens due to keratin protein denaturation

16. SALICYLIC ACID
BHA : found in willow bark, wintergreen leaves, sweet birch, but manufacture synthetically from sodium phenolate
Gold standart in cosmetic enhancement of facial skin
Excellent keratolytic agent
It is oil soluble and can penetrate lipid plug in congested follicle
Less irritating then glycolic acid, doesn’t alter protective properties of the skin
Antimicrobial properties - has a strong comedolytic effect
Anti-inflammatory properties
Strength: 20%, 30%
Good for acne vulgaris,enlarged pores, rough and oily skin,photoaging, hyper pigmentation
Good for Fitzpatrick type III
Not good for people with allergy to Salicylic component

17. JESSNER’S PEEL
Solution combination: 14% Saliculic acid, 14% resorcinol,
14% lactic acid in ethanol base
penetrates deeper then stratum corneum
good for people who already experienced in using chemical
peels
Good for acne, oily skin.

18. RETINOIC ACID
Derives from retinoids, which is denatured vitamin A
Deeper peel
Used for scars as well as wrinkles and pigmentation
problems
It usually used in conjunction with other acids to a cause
peeling at deeper level

19. TRICHLOROACETIC ACID
(TCA)
Chemical coagulant, works by coagulation of skin proteins
Can be used in deferent strength and abilities to penetrate
past papillary dermis and should be used with caution
at 25% can be used as a superficial peel. at 30-40% -
medium depth, 50%- only MD due to really high risk of
complications. at 35% used in the Obagi Blue Peels.

20. HOW DO I START?
1.Pick the best peeling agent and peel solution for the job:
Know all pros and cons of all agents
Analyze client’s skin (type, aging, condition or problem)
2.Use proper tools:
Woods lamp
Moisture reading device
3.Learn classification - helps choosing perfect peel.
4.Do proper pre- and post- peel job.

21. FITZPATRICK SKIN TYPE
Glogau
Photodamage
classification
Rubin
photodamage
classification

22. RUBIN PHOTODAMAGE
CLASSIFICATION

23. SIDE EFFECTS. ERYTHEMA
Erythema an pruritus is a normal reaction to re-
epithalization.
Can be prevented with proper pre-peel action.
Persistent erythema is common
for deeper peels or combination
peels.

24. MORE SIDE EFFECTS
Peeling is the common on the 2nd day.
Dyspigmentation such as hypo or hyper pigmentation is
more likely to occur in patient Fitzpatrick IV-VI.
Bacterial and viral infections are rare.
Scarring is common for very deep peels.

25. Q&A