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CANADIAN ACADEMY
The effects of cyclical
bleaching on hair strength
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
2/12/2014
Word Count: 3,915
The research question of this extended essay is the following: “What are the effects of the number of
bleaching cycles on the hair strength of female Asian hair?” Our experiment consisted of bleaching 27
hair switches for 1-3 cycles. The bleaching time ranged from 0 to 120 minutes, in 15 minute increments
(Further information on this can be obtained in appendix A). We used a self-made method of measuring
hair strength. Our method consisted of finding average hair diameter and the hair’s tensile strength, then
dividing the tensile strength by the average hair diameter. We first bleached our switches then analyzed
the hairs from the switches to see their hair strength. We hypothesized that a greater amount of bleaching
cycles would result in lower hair strength. In conclusion, our data did not support our hypothesis.
However, with further qualitative analysis of the hair, we found out that, qualitatively, our hypothesis was
valid. Our data was inaccurate. This inaccuracy occurred possibly due to methodology errors and
unforeseen shrinking in the hairs. For further research, we recommended to use a previously test method
to evaluate hair strength—the 20 percent index—to reduce such errors and inaccuracies.
Word Count: 195
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
1
Table of Contents
0. Acknowledgements...................................................................................................................................3
1. Introduction...............................................................................................................................................4
Focus .........................................................................................................................................................4
The research question and its significance...........................................................................................4
The hair structure .................................................................................................................................4
The bleaching process...........................................................................................................................4
Hair strength measurement and brief introduction on experiment method..........................................5
Hypothesis ................................................................................................................................................5
HNULL .....................................................................................................................................................5
HALTERNATIVE............................................................................................................................................5
2. Variables ...................................................................................................................................................5
Independent...........................................................................................................................................5
Dependent .............................................................................................................................................6
Controlled .............................................................................................................................................6
Uncontrollable.......................................................................................................................................7
3. Method......................................................................................................................................................7
Materials...............................................................................................................................................7
Method ..................................................................................................................................................8
4. Data.........................................................................................................................................................11
Raw data .............................................................................................................................................11
Processed data....................................................................................................................................11
5. Analysis ..................................................................................................................................................13
Our data and our hypothesis...............................................................................................................13
Explanation of results .........................................................................................................................14
Qualitative evidence for hypothesis validity .......................................................................................14
Analysis of reliability and validity of our data....................................................................................15
T. Test..................................................................................................................................................15
Future improvements to ensure valid, reliable quantitative data.......................................................15
Storage of hair ....................................................................................................................................16
More trials ..........................................................................................................................................16
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
2
6. Conclusion ..............................................................................................................................................16
7. Works Cited.............................................................................................................................................16
Works Cited.................................................................................................................................................16
Appendix A: Switch number and time+cycle information......................................................................18
Appendix B: Raw data.............................................................................................................................19
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
3
0. Acknowledgements
Firstly, I would like to thank my dad for helping me so much throughout this extended essay. I
would also like to thank Mr. Dave Ferguson, my EE advisor and biology teacher, for his help and
feedback on the EE. I also thank Proctor and Gamble Japan for letting me borrow their resources and
their lab. This would not be possible without all of your help. Thank you very much!
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
4
1. Introduction
Focus
The research question and its significance
The research question of this extended essay is: “What are the effects of the number of bleaching cycles
on the hair strength of female Asian hair?”
This research is important as millions of people around the world bleach their hair. Statistics show that
almost 75% of women in America color their hair [1]. Coloring usually involves bleaching. With
widespread use of bleaching, it is important for us to understand the process of bleaching. Cyclical
bleaching is also popular. While significant research has been conducted on the effects of bleaching on
the human hair on hair strength, no research has been conducted on cyclical bleaching. We know effects
of a single cycle of bleach, however what are the effects of the second or third cycle?
The hair structure
Hairs have 3 main layers. [2] Figure 1.1 shows us a diagram of the layers of the human hair.
Figure 1.1: Cross section of human hair. Diagram obtained from [2]
The outermost layer of hair is called the
cuticle. It consists of overlapping ‘scales’ of
protein and lipids [3]. The cortex is the next
layer—it is the thickest hair layer and gives
the hair its color. The innermost layer is the
medulla. The medulla is the hollow center of
the hair. The cell membrane complex (CMC)
is the ‘glue’ of the hair and keeps all the
layers of the hair together [2]. The destruction of the CMC can result in the disintegration of the cuticle
[4].
The bleaching process
Bleach works by oxidizing a plethora of different compounds in the hair [5]. This results in the lightening
of hair that we desire. However, Wolfram et. al [6] showed that bleach also oxidizes the bonds in various
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
5
hair protein, rendering the proteins and affecting hair strength. Experiments have all shown such results—
more bleaching results in a decrease in hair strength [7] [8] [6].
Hair strength measurement and brief introduction on experiment method
We will generate data by bleaching various different hair switches for different times and different
bleaching cycles. We will then sample individual strands of hair and evaluate the hair strength.
We do not have the complicated materials required for more complicated methods, so we will use a self-
created method of hair strength measurement. Our method looks at tensile strength and the average hair
diameter. We divide the tensile strength by average hair diameter to get a relative value for hair strength,
with units g/µm. Our experiment will work by bleaching hairs for a range of times in 1-3 cycles and then
measuring the hair strength on said hairs.
Hypothesis
HNULL
There is no relation between the number of bleaching cycles and the hair strength of female Asian hair.
HALTERNATIVE
If we put hairs through a greater amount of bleaching cycles, the hair strength will decrease.
Explanation of alternative hypothesis
We know from past research that more bleaching time causes more hair damage [6-7]. Additional
bleaching cycles mean more bleaching time, resulting in a greater decrease in hair strength. In
addition, an extra bleaching cycle also means that bleach will need to repenetrate the hair with
every cycle.
To get inside the hair, bleach needs to pass through the cuticle. This requires the bleach to travel
through the CMC. Repeat entries through the CMC could possible result in complete damage of
the CMC, causing the cuticle to detach [4]. While the cuticle does not affect the structural
strength of hair [8], complete damage of the CMC does [4]. Not only that, as “self-repair is
impossible” [9] for hair, the CMC cannot regenerate.
Due to these various damage factors, I hypothesize more bleaching cycles will result in a greater
decrease in hair strength.
2. Variables
Independent
Figure 2.1: Table showing independent variables
Variable Unit Range
Bleaching cycles N/A 1-3 cycles, 1 cycle increments
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
6
Dependent
Figure 2.2: Table showing dependent variables
Variable Units Method of measurement
Hair strength g/µm Dividing the tensile strength by the average hair
diameter.
Controlled
Figure 2.3: Table showing controlled variables
Variable Effect Method of Control
Dirt on/ inside hair Can possibly affect hair strength Wash hair before bleaching by
putting under running water for
15 minutes
Bleach remains on hair
after bleaching
Can cause hair to be oxidized for a greater amount of time than
needed.
Same as dirt on/inside hair
Humidity and
Temperature
As Speakman, et al [10] and Menkart, et al [11] observed, there
are differences in the tensile strength of hairs in different
humidity environments. Through research conducted by
Robbins [12] and Rebenfeld [13], evidence was provided that
tensile strength changed with temperature, too.
Data collection and hair drying
(for 24 hours) will be conducted
in a room that is controlled at
65% humidity and 25°C
Moisture on hand getting
on hair
The moisture acts the same way as humidity. Touching hairs
will cause the moisture levels of certain sections of the hair to
change and thus affect the cuticle in that portion.
This experiment will require the
use of nitrile gloves throughout.
Bare hands will not make
contact with the hair at any point
in the experiment or the
preparation of the hair.
Ethnicity of hair Hair from different ethnicities, locations and genders have
different physical and chemical qualities [11]. Different hairs
will show different reactions to the bleaching
We will control our hair to only
that of Asian females that
originate from the scalp.
Previously damaged hair Using damaged hair can result in a preexisting low hair
strength and can affect our results.
We will use undamaged, virgin
hair.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
7
Uncontrollable
Figure 2.4: Table showing uncontrollable variables
Variable Effect
Temperature and humidity when bleaching During the process of bleaching, humidity and temperature will
not be controlled for. This could temporarily affect hair strength.
Bleach The bleach I will use is not mass produced—we have to make it
using a formula. Thus, we will see slight variations in the bleach
whenever it is made due to uncertainty. Every bleaching cycle
needs a new bleach to be ‘made’.
Biological variation As the hair switches we will be using will contain different hair
from different people, biological variation will play a role in the
effect of bleaching. Some hairs may not react according to theory
and cause variation in data.
Uncertainties of equipment All of our equipment contains uncertainties which we cannot
control for. This means that our data is never certain.
3. Method
Materials
1. 27 hair switches
a. Female Asian hair
b. A hair switch is a sample of hairs
2. A marker
3. 1 stand
4. 1 stand clip
5. Bleach
6. 1-5 liter beaker in which we will bleach the hair
7. Materials for bleach preparation
a. I cannot state the method for bleach preparation as is it P&G’s own peroxide-based bleach
which is protected.
8. Water
9. Timer (±0.01 seconds)
10. Tub
11. Piece of metal
12. Small magnet
13. Clip
14. Paper clip
15. Baggy
16. 45 coins
a. 15 ¥1, ¥5 and ¥10 coins
b. Before starting, weigh each type of coin by putting all 15 on an electronic balance and finding
the average weight of the type of coin.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
8
17. 100g mass
18. Electronic micrometer
a. We used a Mitutoyo ID-C112BS (±0.01)
19. Electronic Balance
a. We used a Mettler PM200 balance (±0.01)
20. Rod/spatula
21. Aluminum foil
22. Safety goggles
23. Nitrile gloves
24. Humidity and temperature controlled room
a. 25°C, 65%
25. Fume hood
Description of all equipment used
We have 3 electronic devices being used. Information on them is provided on Figure 3.1.
Figure 3.1: A table containing a list and description of all electronic devices used in this
experiment
Device Use SI units and
uncertainty
How to use
Digital
micrometer
To
determine
the
diameter
of a hair
strand
µm, ±0.01 You need to put a strand of hair into an opening in the
micrometer, and then shut the opening. An indicator shows the
diameter.
Electronic
balance
To
determine
the mass
of objects
g, ±0.01 You need to put your sample on the pressure plate of the
balance. An indicator on the balance will show mass of that
object. Remember to recalibrate the balance before every use.
Timer To keep
track of
time
s, ±0.01 When you press the start button, the timer will start. An
indicator on it will show the amount of time passed since the
start button was pressed. You can press the stop button to stop
the time from going on. You can use this to find the amount of
between two intervals.
Method
There are two phases to this experiment: the preparation phase and the data collection phase.
Preparation phase
Make sure to wear nitrile gloves and safety goggles throughout the preparation phase.
1. Preparation of switches
a. Use a marker to label the switches from 1 through 27.
i. These numbers will help us know how much time and how many cycles of
bleaching the switch needs to go through
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
9
ii. Refer to appendix A for the full table which shows what switch number
corresponds with what time+cycles.
iii. Don’t write on the hairs. Write on the tape/clip that holds the hairs.
2. Bleach
a. Make the bleach.
i. We used a peroxide-based liquid bleach. I cannot disclose the formula as it is
P&G’s secret formula.
ii. Make sure to prepare the bleach under a fume hood.
iii. Make and use the bleach in a 1-5 liter beaker.
b. Wash the switches
i. All switches should be washed for 15 minutes.
1. Use a timer to keep track of the time.
ii. Washing consists of having a tub and a source of running distilled water. Water
should be entering the tub. The switches should be in this tub. The current of the
flowing water in the tub is necessary for the cleansing of the switches. There
should be no additional substances added in the tub.
c. Bleach the switches
i. Take all the switches and completely submerge them in the bleach. Be careful of
using your hands. Use a rod or a spatula. Make sure the bleaching occurs under a
fume hood.
ii. When the bleaching time of a switch approaches (once every 15 minutes), use a
spatula or rod to take the switch out of the bleach. In the first cycle, there will be
3 switches to take out at every time interval. In the second cycle, there will be 2
switches to take out at every time interval and in the third cycle there will only be
1.
1. Use a timer to keep track of the time.
iii. When a switch/switches are taken out, immediately wash them again for 15
minutes in the exact same way described in b.
d. Drying
i. Take the switches and put them in a humidity and temperature controlled room
1. Humidity: 65%
2. Temperature: 25°C
ii. The switches should be suspended in the air with the use of a stand and a clip.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
10
iii. Make sure none of the switches are touching each other.
iv. The switches should be dried for at least 24 hours.
e. Once dried, do the 2nd
cycle in the same way. Once 2nd
cycle has dried, do the 3rd
cycle.
Make sure to only bleach switches that have to go through the 2nd
and 3rd
cycles.
f. This whole process will be staggered. For example, 90 minutes into the bleaching, you
will be done washing the 75 minute switches and drying them while also getting ready to
take out the 90 minute switches from the bleach.
3. Making the measuring apparatus
a. Figure 3.2 shows what the tensile strength measuring apparatus needs to look like:
Figure 3.2: Schematic of what the tensile strength measuring apparatus should look like
i. A stand should hold a clip which holds a piece of metal.
ii. A small magnet should be attached to this piece of metal.
1. Hair strands should be clipped between the magnet and the metal.
2. The magnet needs to be strong enough to hold the hair while force is
being applied to it. If it is not, the hair will slip off.
iii. There should be a paper taped to the back of the metal such that 5cm of the paper
should hang down from the metal.
iv. We also need to set up another small system.
1. Get a clip, a paper clip and a small baggy. Shape the paper clip such that
it connects the clip and the small baggy together.
a. Weigh the smaller apparatus and note its mass.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
11
Data collection phase
You don’t need safety goggles now however nitrile gloves are still important. You can never touch
the hairs with your bare hands.
4. Obtain hair switch with time+cycles that you want to sample
a. You will need 10 samples from every hair switch, including the three 0 minute (control)
switches.
5. Cut a strand of hair from the switch.
6. Clip the strand of hair between the metal and the magnet.
a. Make sure it’s still in its original orientation—stem up, tip down.
7. Using the paper as a reference, we need to attach the clip of the smaller apparatus on the hair such
that the portion between the magnet and the clip is 5cm long.
8. The average diameter needs to be measured first. Take 6 random samples using the electronic
micrometer of the section of hair and average it out.
9. Measuring tensile strength involves the baggy. Add coins into the baggy until the hair breaks.
Add the mass of the baggy to the total mass of the coins put into the baggy and that is the tensile
strength of the hair.
a. If all the coins have been put in the baggy and the hair is still intact, carefully take all the
coins out of the baggy, put in the 100g mass and then keep on adding coins.
To ensure reliability of data, we will have 27 samples with 10 trials each, giving us a total of 270 data
points. This should ensure a sufficient data set for us to evaluate our hypothesis and formulate a
conclusion.
4. Data
Raw data
Our raw data is located in Appendix B.
Processed data
The following is our processed data.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
12
Figure 4.1: Raw data on average hair strength in various times and cycles
Time (minutes)
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
Cycle 1 Average
Hair strength
(g/µm)
1.06 1.11 1.09 1.05 0.93 0.96 0.98 0.82 0.80
Cycle 2 Average
Hair strength
(g/µm)
1.14 1.11 1.15 1.21 1.06 1.00 0.91 0.82 0.83
Cycle 3 Average
Hair strength
(g/µm)
1.16 1.02 0.83 1.14 1.05 0.93 0.91 0.87 0.80
Figure 4.2: 95% confidence interval (CI) data for the average hair strengths in various times and cycles
Time (minutes)
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
1 cycle
95% CI
0.14 0.13 0.13 0.14 0.10 0.05 0.12 0.13 0.11
2 cycle
95% CI
0.16 0.14 0.12 0.15 0.15 0.12 0.11 0.11 0.12
3 cycle
95% CI
0.13 0.11 0.13 0.09 0.13 0.20 0.21 0.20 0.12
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
13
5. Analysis
Our data and our hypothesis
Our data did not support our hypothesis. Our hypothesis was the following: If we bleach hair for a greater
amount of cycles, it will result in lower hair strength. In terms of our research question, it meant that there
are no effects of the number of bleaching cycles on the hair strength of female Asian scalp hair.
Our processed data is shown in Figure 4.1 and 4.2 and is visualized in Figure 4.3. Figure 4.3 shows us
declining hair strength with time in all three cycles. However, with closer inspection, we can see that the
data may not be valid: the 2nd
cycle data shows that our hair strength actually improved with a second
cycle. After 100 minutes, our data shows that the 3 cycle hairs are stronger than the 1 cycle hairs. Hair
cannot self-repair and our hair samples weren’t exposed to repairing agents or damaging agents. Our data
supports the idea that the bleaching cycles don’t affect hair strength.
0.00
0.20
0.40
0.60
0.80
1.00
1.20
1.40
1.60
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140
Hairstrength(g/µm)
Time (minutes) (±0.01)
Figure 4.3: Graph visualizing data from table 4.1
and 4.2
1 cycle
2 cycle
3 cycle
1 cycle
2 cycles
3 cycles
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
14
Explanation of results
Our quantitative data shows that there is no relation between bleaching cycles and hair strength. Our
qualitative evidence, in the form of scanning electron microscope (SEM) pictures, however, suggests that
our hypothesis is valid and our data is invalid.
Qualitative evidence for hypothesis validity
Figure 5.1: SEM images of two hair samples that we bleached (120 minutes 1 cycle and 120 minutes 3 cycle)
along with annotations to point out hair destruction
We can see clear evidence of hair damage on the SEM images obtained of our samples of hair. We can
see evidence of cuticle removal, CMC damage and shrinkage. While cuticle removal has no effect on the
hair strength, it is evidence for complete CMC damage [8]. Complete CMC damage results in a decrease
in hair strength [2]. There is also further oxidative damage on the 3 cycle hair. Thus, qualitatively and
theoretically we know that there should be a decrease in hair strength rather than an increase.
There may be one explanation for our results, however. Closer inspection of the picture reveals possible
wrinkling on the surface of the hair. This wrinkling could be a sign of shrinkage in the hair. As explored
by Valko et al. [14] and Zviak et al. [15], high pH can result in hair swelling. Bleach is a base and thus
has a high pH. This, along with the rapid dehydration during drying can cause hair to shrink [2]. The
shrinkage can explain increase in hair strength. Our measurement of hair strength looked at the ratio of
hair strength to the tensile strength. Perhaps the tensile strength may have gone down relative to the
original average diameter of the strand, however due to shrinking of the diameter, it seems as if the hair
strength has improved.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
15
Analysis of reliability and validity of our data
We have already concluded that our data is unreliable and invalid; however we only have qualitative
evidence for this. Quantitative evidence is provided by 2 statistical tests: the 95% CI and a t. test.
95% CI
The 95% CI formulates a range of values where there is a 95% chance a given data point will lie
between. The 95% CI data is shown in Figure 4.2, while it is shown as error bars in Figure 4.3.
We can see huge overlaps of the error bars in the data—this means that there is a chance that two
data points could possibly lay on the same point. This shows that the spread of the data is too
great and that this causes unreliability in our data.
T. Test
The t. test is a type of statistical analysis that tests whether two sets of data are distinct. We will
use the t. test to check whether or not the 1st
, 2nd
and 3rd
cycle data are different. If they are not
different, the data states that there is no effect of bleaching cycles on hair strength. The test gives
us a probability value the similarity of the sets. I conducted the T. Test using the average 15
minute hair strength of the 1st
, 2nd
and 3rd
cycle. I got a 99% similarity between 1 and 2 cycle and
a 33% similarity between 2 and 3 cycle. Usually, for two sets of data to be considered different
there can only be a 5% similarity. Our three sets can be implied to be samer. Our data is invalid,
inaccurate and unreliable.
Future improvements to ensure valid, reliable quantitative data
Inaccuracy of data
Our flaw was that our data was inaccurate. I hypothesize that this is because of possible shrinking
in the hair, causing our measure of hair strength to be invalid. We should adopt a new method to
measure the hair strength. I suggest that we use Edman and Marti’s [7] 20 per cent index as a
method of hair strength measurement. It requires a 20% elongation of a hair fiber underwater
before and after bleaching. This requires us to have water and to have an elongator. It uses data
from these two stretches to form a ratio and it calculates it as a measurement of hair strength.
Edman and Marti showed results that were accurate and well supported with the use of the 20 per
cent index.
Dry hair vs. Wet hair
Studies by Edman and Marti [7] and Robbins and Scott [12] suggest that a relationship between
bleaching and tensile strength only exists in wet hairs. With an analysis of other hair strength
testing measures, I noticed that most of them were conducted in water [2]. For future experiments,
perhaps tensile strength measurements should be taken with wet hair rather than with dry hair. As
it is not really possible to control for ‘wet’ in our method, going back to alternative methods, it is
probably better to change to a 20 percent index method to find hair strength.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
16
Storage of hair
At various parts in the data collection period, the hairs were stored in the humidity and
temperature controlled room for long periods of time. With time, dirt was visible on the hairs.
SEM pictures showed dirt on some of the hair strands. Perhaps this could have aided to the
inaccuracy of the data. In the future, we should aim to reduce storage and aim to collect data as
quickly as possible.
More trials
We had 10 trials for every sample. We had a total of 27 samples, resulting in a total of 270 data
points. During the planning, this seemed like a lot however the variation in the hairs, due to
biological variation, couldn’t be accounted for with only 10 trials per sample. Perhaps 25 trials
per sample would be more accurate for data collection.
6. Conclusion
Our hypothesis was not supported by our data. Our data showed results that were contradictory to theory
and past studies. We inferred from qualitative analysis (Figure 5.1) that our data was actually inaccurate
and there was visible damage occurring in the hair. This damage would affect hair strength; however this
was not reflected in our data. We further explored the validity and reliability of our data through statistical
tests such as the 95% confidence interval and the t. test. These two tests showed us that our data was
invalid and unreliable, in addition to being inaccurate. The main improvement to this experiment for the
future is to adopt a more accurate technique to measure hair strength. The technique is called 20 percent
index, and works through data generated by elongations of hair strands underwater pre and post bleaching.
Due to our inaccurate data, we weren’t able to conduct as many tests and find out as much information as
we wanted to, however in the future, with a proper hair strength testing method and a few more
improvements, we will be able to produce more precise and accurate data to form conclusions from. In
the future, we should try to research whether or not multiple bleaching cycles have the same effect on hair
strength as a single bleach of the same total time as the cyclic bleaching.
7. Works Cited
Works Cited
[1] M. Bryan, "Howstuffworks "How hair coloring works?"," Howstuffworks, 01 April 2000. [Online].
Available: http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/everyday-innovations/hair-coloring.htm.
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
17
[Accessed 04 February 2014].
[2] C. R. Robbins, Chemical and physical behavior of human hair, 5th ed., London: Springer, 2012.
[3] W. D. James, T. G. Berger and D. M. Elston, Andrews' diseases of the skin: clinical dermatology, 11th
ed., London: Elsevier Health Sciences, 2011.
[4] M. Feughelman, Mechanical properties and structure of A-keratin fibres: wool, human hair and
related fibres, Sydney: UNSW Press, 1997.
[5] R. Barrans, Polloway and M. Rodriguez, "Bleached hair," 1999. [Online]. Available:
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen99/gen99504.htm. [Accessed 1 February 2014].
[6] L. J. Wolfram, K. Hall and I. Hui, "The mechanism of hair bleaching," Journal of the society of
cosmetic chemists, vol. 21, pp. 875-900, 1970.
[7] W. W. Edman and M. E. Marti, "Properties of peroxide-bleached hair," Journal of the society of
cosmetic chemists, vol. 12, pp. 133-146, 1961.
[8] C. R. Robbins, "Cuticle damage and the tensile properties of human hair," Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 42, pp. 59-67, 1991.
[9] B. Bhushan, G. Wei and P. Haddad, "Friction and wear studies of human hair and skin," Wear, vol.
259, no. 7-12, pp. 1012-1021, 2005.
[10] J. B. Speakman, "The plasticity of wool," Proceedings of the royal society, vol. 103, pp. 377-396,
1928.
[11] J. Menkart, L. J. Wolfram and I. Mao, "Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and
differences," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 17, pp. 769-787, 1966.
[12] C. R. Robbins and G. V. Scott, "Predcition of dry extension properties of keratin fibers from wet
extension data," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 21, pp. 639-641, 1970.
[13] L. Rebenfeld, H. D. Weigmann and C. Dansizer, "Temperature dependence of the mechanical
properties of human hair in relation to structure," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol.
17, pp. 525-538, 1966.
[14] E. I. Valco and G. Barnett, "A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents," Journal of the
Society of Coemsetic Chemists, vol. 3, pp. 108-117, 1959.
[15] C. Zviak and J. Rouet, "Melamine and dicyandiamide as depilatory accelerators". US Patent
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
18
3,217,258, 6 September 1966.
[16] S. S. Funari and L. G. Pinto, "Structural characterization of Asian, Caucasian and African human hair
keratinous fibres," Desy photon science, Hamburg, 2007.
[17] F. Gjesdal, "Investigation on the melanin granules with special consideration of the hair pigment,"
Acta pathologica et microbiologica scandinavica, vol. 47, p. 133, 1959.
[18] "A comparative study of beard and scalp hair," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 34,
pp. 361-368, 1983.
[19] R. Wickett, "Kinetic studies of hair reduction using a single fiber technique," Journal of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 34, pp. 301-316, 1983.
8. Appendix
Appendix A: Switch number and time+cycle information
Switch
number
Bleaching
time
Number of bleaching
cycles + comments
1 15 1
2 15 2
3 15 3
4 30 1
5 30 2
6 30 3
7 45 1
8 45 2
9 45 3
10 60 1
11 60 2
12 60 3
13 75 1
14 75 2
15 75 3
16 90 1
17 90 2
18 90 3
19 105 1
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
19
20 105 2
21 105 3
22 120 1
23 120 2
24 120 3
25 0 0 CONTROL
26 0 0 CONTROL
27 0 0 CONTROL
Appendix B: Raw data
Cycle 1 Time (minutes)
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
Trial 1 1.50 1.58 1.48 1.07 1.02 1.10 0.76 0.92 1.25
2 1.14 1.22 0.94 0.80 0.91 0.96 0.95 1.02 0.76
3 1.27 1.02 0.96 1.06 0.76 0.90 0.79 0.45 0.84
4 0.85 1.01 0.94 1.04 0.82 1.01 0.98 1.01 0.59
5 1.11 0.97 1.23 0.84 0.87 0.93 0.97 0.92 0.68
6 0.69 0.89 1.00 1.13 0.75 0.90 0.99 1.08 0.72
7 1.04 1.29 0.94 1.46 1.31 1.08 1.16 0.66 0.76
8 0.99 0.95 0.91 1.25 0.90 0.96 0.73 0.83 0.89
9 0.92 1.03 1.37 1.15 0.95 0.91 1.24 0.66 0.80
10 1.12 1.10 1.13 0.69 1.06 0.85 1.23 0.62 0.69
Avg 1.06 1.11 1.09 1.05 0.93 0.96 0.98 0.82 0.80
StD 0.23 0.21 0.20 0.23 0.17 0.08 0.19 0.21 0.18
95% CI 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.14 0.10 0.05 0.12 0.13 0.11
Cycle 2 Time (minutes)
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
Trial 1 0.87 1.47 1.13 1.50 0.99 0.85 0.87 1.00 1.03
2 0.96 0.94 1.47 1.29 0.69 1.12 0.75 0.92 1.05
3 1.09 1.12 1.13 0.96 1.02 1.32 0.88 0.48 0.72
4 0.82 0.79 0.94 1.41 0.82 1.19 0.77 0.64 1.03
5 0.95 1.24 1.13 0.96 1.11 0.92 1.00 0.87 0.98
6 1.10 0.94 1.08 1.12 1.13 1.09 1.18 0.67 0.76
7 1.39 0.97 0.97 0.93 1.22 0.73 0.77 0.99 0.84
8 1.32 1.28 1.14 1.59 1.12 1.05 1.02 0.84 0.80
9 1.19 0.97 1.53 1.23 0.94 0.85 1.17 0.78 0.66
10 1.66 1.36 0.99 1.06 1.58 0.84 0.72 1.00 0.48
Avg 1.14 1.11 1.15 1.21 1.06 1.00 0.91 0.82 0.83
StD 0.26 0.22 0.20 0.24 0.24 0.19 0.17 0.18 0.19
95% CI 0.16 0.14 0.12 0.15 0.15 0.12 0.11 0.11 0.12
Cycle 3 Time (minutes)
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
Trial 1 1.23 1.15 1.00 1.39 1.10 0.95 0.91 0.85 0.46
2 0.99 0.72 1.03 1.13 1.14 0.81 1.22 0.30 0.84
3 1.34 1.17 0.61 1.28 0.87 1.09 0.75 0.51 0.89
4 1.16 0.72 0.81 1.05 1.33 1.24 1.11 0.78 0.82
Vineet Chetan Yagnik
IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038
February 12th
, 2014
Word count: 3,915
20
5 1.46 1.03 0.88 1.17 1.29 0.87 0.03 1.37 0.64
6 0.86 1.04 0.42 1.03 1.01 0.71 1.14 0.78 0.89
7 1.12 1.11 0.99 1.18 1.27 0.33 1.02 1.29 0.94
8 0.85 0.95 0.87 0.89 0.97 1.39 0.86 0.88 0.79
9 1.44 1.04 0.63 1.12 0.78 1.25 0.91 0.99 1.11
10 1.11 1.25 1.05 1.15 0.79 0.71 1.13 1.00 0.56
Avg 1.16 1.02 0.83 1.14 1.05 0.93 0.91 0.87 0.80
StD 0.22 0.18 0.21 0.14 0.20 0.32 0.34 0.32 0.19
95% CI 0.13 0.11 0.13 0.09 0.13 0.20 0.21 0.20 0.12

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VINEET YAGNIK BIOLOGY EE

  • 1. CANADIAN ACADEMY The effects of cyclical bleaching on hair strength Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 2/12/2014 Word Count: 3,915 The research question of this extended essay is the following: “What are the effects of the number of bleaching cycles on the hair strength of female Asian hair?” Our experiment consisted of bleaching 27 hair switches for 1-3 cycles. The bleaching time ranged from 0 to 120 minutes, in 15 minute increments (Further information on this can be obtained in appendix A). We used a self-made method of measuring hair strength. Our method consisted of finding average hair diameter and the hair’s tensile strength, then dividing the tensile strength by the average hair diameter. We first bleached our switches then analyzed the hairs from the switches to see their hair strength. We hypothesized that a greater amount of bleaching cycles would result in lower hair strength. In conclusion, our data did not support our hypothesis. However, with further qualitative analysis of the hair, we found out that, qualitatively, our hypothesis was valid. Our data was inaccurate. This inaccuracy occurred possibly due to methodology errors and unforeseen shrinking in the hairs. For further research, we recommended to use a previously test method to evaluate hair strength—the 20 percent index—to reduce such errors and inaccuracies. Word Count: 195
  • 2. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 1 Table of Contents 0. Acknowledgements...................................................................................................................................3 1. Introduction...............................................................................................................................................4 Focus .........................................................................................................................................................4 The research question and its significance...........................................................................................4 The hair structure .................................................................................................................................4 The bleaching process...........................................................................................................................4 Hair strength measurement and brief introduction on experiment method..........................................5 Hypothesis ................................................................................................................................................5 HNULL .....................................................................................................................................................5 HALTERNATIVE............................................................................................................................................5 2. Variables ...................................................................................................................................................5 Independent...........................................................................................................................................5 Dependent .............................................................................................................................................6 Controlled .............................................................................................................................................6 Uncontrollable.......................................................................................................................................7 3. Method......................................................................................................................................................7 Materials...............................................................................................................................................7 Method ..................................................................................................................................................8 4. Data.........................................................................................................................................................11 Raw data .............................................................................................................................................11 Processed data....................................................................................................................................11 5. Analysis ..................................................................................................................................................13 Our data and our hypothesis...............................................................................................................13 Explanation of results .........................................................................................................................14 Qualitative evidence for hypothesis validity .......................................................................................14 Analysis of reliability and validity of our data....................................................................................15 T. Test..................................................................................................................................................15 Future improvements to ensure valid, reliable quantitative data.......................................................15 Storage of hair ....................................................................................................................................16 More trials ..........................................................................................................................................16
  • 3. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 2 6. Conclusion ..............................................................................................................................................16 7. Works Cited.............................................................................................................................................16 Works Cited.................................................................................................................................................16 Appendix A: Switch number and time+cycle information......................................................................18 Appendix B: Raw data.............................................................................................................................19
  • 4. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 3 0. Acknowledgements Firstly, I would like to thank my dad for helping me so much throughout this extended essay. I would also like to thank Mr. Dave Ferguson, my EE advisor and biology teacher, for his help and feedback on the EE. I also thank Proctor and Gamble Japan for letting me borrow their resources and their lab. This would not be possible without all of your help. Thank you very much!
  • 5. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 4 1. Introduction Focus The research question and its significance The research question of this extended essay is: “What are the effects of the number of bleaching cycles on the hair strength of female Asian hair?” This research is important as millions of people around the world bleach their hair. Statistics show that almost 75% of women in America color their hair [1]. Coloring usually involves bleaching. With widespread use of bleaching, it is important for us to understand the process of bleaching. Cyclical bleaching is also popular. While significant research has been conducted on the effects of bleaching on the human hair on hair strength, no research has been conducted on cyclical bleaching. We know effects of a single cycle of bleach, however what are the effects of the second or third cycle? The hair structure Hairs have 3 main layers. [2] Figure 1.1 shows us a diagram of the layers of the human hair. Figure 1.1: Cross section of human hair. Diagram obtained from [2] The outermost layer of hair is called the cuticle. It consists of overlapping ‘scales’ of protein and lipids [3]. The cortex is the next layer—it is the thickest hair layer and gives the hair its color. The innermost layer is the medulla. The medulla is the hollow center of the hair. The cell membrane complex (CMC) is the ‘glue’ of the hair and keeps all the layers of the hair together [2]. The destruction of the CMC can result in the disintegration of the cuticle [4]. The bleaching process Bleach works by oxidizing a plethora of different compounds in the hair [5]. This results in the lightening of hair that we desire. However, Wolfram et. al [6] showed that bleach also oxidizes the bonds in various
  • 6. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 5 hair protein, rendering the proteins and affecting hair strength. Experiments have all shown such results— more bleaching results in a decrease in hair strength [7] [8] [6]. Hair strength measurement and brief introduction on experiment method We will generate data by bleaching various different hair switches for different times and different bleaching cycles. We will then sample individual strands of hair and evaluate the hair strength. We do not have the complicated materials required for more complicated methods, so we will use a self- created method of hair strength measurement. Our method looks at tensile strength and the average hair diameter. We divide the tensile strength by average hair diameter to get a relative value for hair strength, with units g/µm. Our experiment will work by bleaching hairs for a range of times in 1-3 cycles and then measuring the hair strength on said hairs. Hypothesis HNULL There is no relation between the number of bleaching cycles and the hair strength of female Asian hair. HALTERNATIVE If we put hairs through a greater amount of bleaching cycles, the hair strength will decrease. Explanation of alternative hypothesis We know from past research that more bleaching time causes more hair damage [6-7]. Additional bleaching cycles mean more bleaching time, resulting in a greater decrease in hair strength. In addition, an extra bleaching cycle also means that bleach will need to repenetrate the hair with every cycle. To get inside the hair, bleach needs to pass through the cuticle. This requires the bleach to travel through the CMC. Repeat entries through the CMC could possible result in complete damage of the CMC, causing the cuticle to detach [4]. While the cuticle does not affect the structural strength of hair [8], complete damage of the CMC does [4]. Not only that, as “self-repair is impossible” [9] for hair, the CMC cannot regenerate. Due to these various damage factors, I hypothesize more bleaching cycles will result in a greater decrease in hair strength. 2. Variables Independent Figure 2.1: Table showing independent variables Variable Unit Range Bleaching cycles N/A 1-3 cycles, 1 cycle increments
  • 7. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 6 Dependent Figure 2.2: Table showing dependent variables Variable Units Method of measurement Hair strength g/µm Dividing the tensile strength by the average hair diameter. Controlled Figure 2.3: Table showing controlled variables Variable Effect Method of Control Dirt on/ inside hair Can possibly affect hair strength Wash hair before bleaching by putting under running water for 15 minutes Bleach remains on hair after bleaching Can cause hair to be oxidized for a greater amount of time than needed. Same as dirt on/inside hair Humidity and Temperature As Speakman, et al [10] and Menkart, et al [11] observed, there are differences in the tensile strength of hairs in different humidity environments. Through research conducted by Robbins [12] and Rebenfeld [13], evidence was provided that tensile strength changed with temperature, too. Data collection and hair drying (for 24 hours) will be conducted in a room that is controlled at 65% humidity and 25°C Moisture on hand getting on hair The moisture acts the same way as humidity. Touching hairs will cause the moisture levels of certain sections of the hair to change and thus affect the cuticle in that portion. This experiment will require the use of nitrile gloves throughout. Bare hands will not make contact with the hair at any point in the experiment or the preparation of the hair. Ethnicity of hair Hair from different ethnicities, locations and genders have different physical and chemical qualities [11]. Different hairs will show different reactions to the bleaching We will control our hair to only that of Asian females that originate from the scalp. Previously damaged hair Using damaged hair can result in a preexisting low hair strength and can affect our results. We will use undamaged, virgin hair.
  • 8. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 7 Uncontrollable Figure 2.4: Table showing uncontrollable variables Variable Effect Temperature and humidity when bleaching During the process of bleaching, humidity and temperature will not be controlled for. This could temporarily affect hair strength. Bleach The bleach I will use is not mass produced—we have to make it using a formula. Thus, we will see slight variations in the bleach whenever it is made due to uncertainty. Every bleaching cycle needs a new bleach to be ‘made’. Biological variation As the hair switches we will be using will contain different hair from different people, biological variation will play a role in the effect of bleaching. Some hairs may not react according to theory and cause variation in data. Uncertainties of equipment All of our equipment contains uncertainties which we cannot control for. This means that our data is never certain. 3. Method Materials 1. 27 hair switches a. Female Asian hair b. A hair switch is a sample of hairs 2. A marker 3. 1 stand 4. 1 stand clip 5. Bleach 6. 1-5 liter beaker in which we will bleach the hair 7. Materials for bleach preparation a. I cannot state the method for bleach preparation as is it P&G’s own peroxide-based bleach which is protected. 8. Water 9. Timer (±0.01 seconds) 10. Tub 11. Piece of metal 12. Small magnet 13. Clip 14. Paper clip 15. Baggy 16. 45 coins a. 15 ¥1, ¥5 and ¥10 coins b. Before starting, weigh each type of coin by putting all 15 on an electronic balance and finding the average weight of the type of coin.
  • 9. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 8 17. 100g mass 18. Electronic micrometer a. We used a Mitutoyo ID-C112BS (±0.01) 19. Electronic Balance a. We used a Mettler PM200 balance (±0.01) 20. Rod/spatula 21. Aluminum foil 22. Safety goggles 23. Nitrile gloves 24. Humidity and temperature controlled room a. 25°C, 65% 25. Fume hood Description of all equipment used We have 3 electronic devices being used. Information on them is provided on Figure 3.1. Figure 3.1: A table containing a list and description of all electronic devices used in this experiment Device Use SI units and uncertainty How to use Digital micrometer To determine the diameter of a hair strand µm, ±0.01 You need to put a strand of hair into an opening in the micrometer, and then shut the opening. An indicator shows the diameter. Electronic balance To determine the mass of objects g, ±0.01 You need to put your sample on the pressure plate of the balance. An indicator on the balance will show mass of that object. Remember to recalibrate the balance before every use. Timer To keep track of time s, ±0.01 When you press the start button, the timer will start. An indicator on it will show the amount of time passed since the start button was pressed. You can press the stop button to stop the time from going on. You can use this to find the amount of between two intervals. Method There are two phases to this experiment: the preparation phase and the data collection phase. Preparation phase Make sure to wear nitrile gloves and safety goggles throughout the preparation phase. 1. Preparation of switches a. Use a marker to label the switches from 1 through 27. i. These numbers will help us know how much time and how many cycles of bleaching the switch needs to go through
  • 10. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 9 ii. Refer to appendix A for the full table which shows what switch number corresponds with what time+cycles. iii. Don’t write on the hairs. Write on the tape/clip that holds the hairs. 2. Bleach a. Make the bleach. i. We used a peroxide-based liquid bleach. I cannot disclose the formula as it is P&G’s secret formula. ii. Make sure to prepare the bleach under a fume hood. iii. Make and use the bleach in a 1-5 liter beaker. b. Wash the switches i. All switches should be washed for 15 minutes. 1. Use a timer to keep track of the time. ii. Washing consists of having a tub and a source of running distilled water. Water should be entering the tub. The switches should be in this tub. The current of the flowing water in the tub is necessary for the cleansing of the switches. There should be no additional substances added in the tub. c. Bleach the switches i. Take all the switches and completely submerge them in the bleach. Be careful of using your hands. Use a rod or a spatula. Make sure the bleaching occurs under a fume hood. ii. When the bleaching time of a switch approaches (once every 15 minutes), use a spatula or rod to take the switch out of the bleach. In the first cycle, there will be 3 switches to take out at every time interval. In the second cycle, there will be 2 switches to take out at every time interval and in the third cycle there will only be 1. 1. Use a timer to keep track of the time. iii. When a switch/switches are taken out, immediately wash them again for 15 minutes in the exact same way described in b. d. Drying i. Take the switches and put them in a humidity and temperature controlled room 1. Humidity: 65% 2. Temperature: 25°C ii. The switches should be suspended in the air with the use of a stand and a clip.
  • 11. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 10 iii. Make sure none of the switches are touching each other. iv. The switches should be dried for at least 24 hours. e. Once dried, do the 2nd cycle in the same way. Once 2nd cycle has dried, do the 3rd cycle. Make sure to only bleach switches that have to go through the 2nd and 3rd cycles. f. This whole process will be staggered. For example, 90 minutes into the bleaching, you will be done washing the 75 minute switches and drying them while also getting ready to take out the 90 minute switches from the bleach. 3. Making the measuring apparatus a. Figure 3.2 shows what the tensile strength measuring apparatus needs to look like: Figure 3.2: Schematic of what the tensile strength measuring apparatus should look like i. A stand should hold a clip which holds a piece of metal. ii. A small magnet should be attached to this piece of metal. 1. Hair strands should be clipped between the magnet and the metal. 2. The magnet needs to be strong enough to hold the hair while force is being applied to it. If it is not, the hair will slip off. iii. There should be a paper taped to the back of the metal such that 5cm of the paper should hang down from the metal. iv. We also need to set up another small system. 1. Get a clip, a paper clip and a small baggy. Shape the paper clip such that it connects the clip and the small baggy together. a. Weigh the smaller apparatus and note its mass.
  • 12. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 11 Data collection phase You don’t need safety goggles now however nitrile gloves are still important. You can never touch the hairs with your bare hands. 4. Obtain hair switch with time+cycles that you want to sample a. You will need 10 samples from every hair switch, including the three 0 minute (control) switches. 5. Cut a strand of hair from the switch. 6. Clip the strand of hair between the metal and the magnet. a. Make sure it’s still in its original orientation—stem up, tip down. 7. Using the paper as a reference, we need to attach the clip of the smaller apparatus on the hair such that the portion between the magnet and the clip is 5cm long. 8. The average diameter needs to be measured first. Take 6 random samples using the electronic micrometer of the section of hair and average it out. 9. Measuring tensile strength involves the baggy. Add coins into the baggy until the hair breaks. Add the mass of the baggy to the total mass of the coins put into the baggy and that is the tensile strength of the hair. a. If all the coins have been put in the baggy and the hair is still intact, carefully take all the coins out of the baggy, put in the 100g mass and then keep on adding coins. To ensure reliability of data, we will have 27 samples with 10 trials each, giving us a total of 270 data points. This should ensure a sufficient data set for us to evaluate our hypothesis and formulate a conclusion. 4. Data Raw data Our raw data is located in Appendix B. Processed data The following is our processed data.
  • 13. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 12 Figure 4.1: Raw data on average hair strength in various times and cycles Time (minutes) 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 Cycle 1 Average Hair strength (g/µm) 1.06 1.11 1.09 1.05 0.93 0.96 0.98 0.82 0.80 Cycle 2 Average Hair strength (g/µm) 1.14 1.11 1.15 1.21 1.06 1.00 0.91 0.82 0.83 Cycle 3 Average Hair strength (g/µm) 1.16 1.02 0.83 1.14 1.05 0.93 0.91 0.87 0.80 Figure 4.2: 95% confidence interval (CI) data for the average hair strengths in various times and cycles Time (minutes) 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 1 cycle 95% CI 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.14 0.10 0.05 0.12 0.13 0.11 2 cycle 95% CI 0.16 0.14 0.12 0.15 0.15 0.12 0.11 0.11 0.12 3 cycle 95% CI 0.13 0.11 0.13 0.09 0.13 0.20 0.21 0.20 0.12
  • 14. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 13 5. Analysis Our data and our hypothesis Our data did not support our hypothesis. Our hypothesis was the following: If we bleach hair for a greater amount of cycles, it will result in lower hair strength. In terms of our research question, it meant that there are no effects of the number of bleaching cycles on the hair strength of female Asian scalp hair. Our processed data is shown in Figure 4.1 and 4.2 and is visualized in Figure 4.3. Figure 4.3 shows us declining hair strength with time in all three cycles. However, with closer inspection, we can see that the data may not be valid: the 2nd cycle data shows that our hair strength actually improved with a second cycle. After 100 minutes, our data shows that the 3 cycle hairs are stronger than the 1 cycle hairs. Hair cannot self-repair and our hair samples weren’t exposed to repairing agents or damaging agents. Our data supports the idea that the bleaching cycles don’t affect hair strength. 0.00 0.20 0.40 0.60 0.80 1.00 1.20 1.40 1.60 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 Hairstrength(g/µm) Time (minutes) (±0.01) Figure 4.3: Graph visualizing data from table 4.1 and 4.2 1 cycle 2 cycle 3 cycle 1 cycle 2 cycles 3 cycles
  • 15. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 14 Explanation of results Our quantitative data shows that there is no relation between bleaching cycles and hair strength. Our qualitative evidence, in the form of scanning electron microscope (SEM) pictures, however, suggests that our hypothesis is valid and our data is invalid. Qualitative evidence for hypothesis validity Figure 5.1: SEM images of two hair samples that we bleached (120 minutes 1 cycle and 120 minutes 3 cycle) along with annotations to point out hair destruction We can see clear evidence of hair damage on the SEM images obtained of our samples of hair. We can see evidence of cuticle removal, CMC damage and shrinkage. While cuticle removal has no effect on the hair strength, it is evidence for complete CMC damage [8]. Complete CMC damage results in a decrease in hair strength [2]. There is also further oxidative damage on the 3 cycle hair. Thus, qualitatively and theoretically we know that there should be a decrease in hair strength rather than an increase. There may be one explanation for our results, however. Closer inspection of the picture reveals possible wrinkling on the surface of the hair. This wrinkling could be a sign of shrinkage in the hair. As explored by Valko et al. [14] and Zviak et al. [15], high pH can result in hair swelling. Bleach is a base and thus has a high pH. This, along with the rapid dehydration during drying can cause hair to shrink [2]. The shrinkage can explain increase in hair strength. Our measurement of hair strength looked at the ratio of hair strength to the tensile strength. Perhaps the tensile strength may have gone down relative to the original average diameter of the strand, however due to shrinking of the diameter, it seems as if the hair strength has improved.
  • 16. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 15 Analysis of reliability and validity of our data We have already concluded that our data is unreliable and invalid; however we only have qualitative evidence for this. Quantitative evidence is provided by 2 statistical tests: the 95% CI and a t. test. 95% CI The 95% CI formulates a range of values where there is a 95% chance a given data point will lie between. The 95% CI data is shown in Figure 4.2, while it is shown as error bars in Figure 4.3. We can see huge overlaps of the error bars in the data—this means that there is a chance that two data points could possibly lay on the same point. This shows that the spread of the data is too great and that this causes unreliability in our data. T. Test The t. test is a type of statistical analysis that tests whether two sets of data are distinct. We will use the t. test to check whether or not the 1st , 2nd and 3rd cycle data are different. If they are not different, the data states that there is no effect of bleaching cycles on hair strength. The test gives us a probability value the similarity of the sets. I conducted the T. Test using the average 15 minute hair strength of the 1st , 2nd and 3rd cycle. I got a 99% similarity between 1 and 2 cycle and a 33% similarity between 2 and 3 cycle. Usually, for two sets of data to be considered different there can only be a 5% similarity. Our three sets can be implied to be samer. Our data is invalid, inaccurate and unreliable. Future improvements to ensure valid, reliable quantitative data Inaccuracy of data Our flaw was that our data was inaccurate. I hypothesize that this is because of possible shrinking in the hair, causing our measure of hair strength to be invalid. We should adopt a new method to measure the hair strength. I suggest that we use Edman and Marti’s [7] 20 per cent index as a method of hair strength measurement. It requires a 20% elongation of a hair fiber underwater before and after bleaching. This requires us to have water and to have an elongator. It uses data from these two stretches to form a ratio and it calculates it as a measurement of hair strength. Edman and Marti showed results that were accurate and well supported with the use of the 20 per cent index. Dry hair vs. Wet hair Studies by Edman and Marti [7] and Robbins and Scott [12] suggest that a relationship between bleaching and tensile strength only exists in wet hairs. With an analysis of other hair strength testing measures, I noticed that most of them were conducted in water [2]. For future experiments, perhaps tensile strength measurements should be taken with wet hair rather than with dry hair. As it is not really possible to control for ‘wet’ in our method, going back to alternative methods, it is probably better to change to a 20 percent index method to find hair strength.
  • 17. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 16 Storage of hair At various parts in the data collection period, the hairs were stored in the humidity and temperature controlled room for long periods of time. With time, dirt was visible on the hairs. SEM pictures showed dirt on some of the hair strands. Perhaps this could have aided to the inaccuracy of the data. In the future, we should aim to reduce storage and aim to collect data as quickly as possible. More trials We had 10 trials for every sample. We had a total of 27 samples, resulting in a total of 270 data points. During the planning, this seemed like a lot however the variation in the hairs, due to biological variation, couldn’t be accounted for with only 10 trials per sample. Perhaps 25 trials per sample would be more accurate for data collection. 6. Conclusion Our hypothesis was not supported by our data. Our data showed results that were contradictory to theory and past studies. We inferred from qualitative analysis (Figure 5.1) that our data was actually inaccurate and there was visible damage occurring in the hair. This damage would affect hair strength; however this was not reflected in our data. We further explored the validity and reliability of our data through statistical tests such as the 95% confidence interval and the t. test. These two tests showed us that our data was invalid and unreliable, in addition to being inaccurate. The main improvement to this experiment for the future is to adopt a more accurate technique to measure hair strength. The technique is called 20 percent index, and works through data generated by elongations of hair strands underwater pre and post bleaching. Due to our inaccurate data, we weren’t able to conduct as many tests and find out as much information as we wanted to, however in the future, with a proper hair strength testing method and a few more improvements, we will be able to produce more precise and accurate data to form conclusions from. In the future, we should try to research whether or not multiple bleaching cycles have the same effect on hair strength as a single bleach of the same total time as the cyclic bleaching. 7. Works Cited Works Cited [1] M. Bryan, "Howstuffworks "How hair coloring works?"," Howstuffworks, 01 April 2000. [Online]. Available: http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/everyday-innovations/hair-coloring.htm.
  • 18. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 17 [Accessed 04 February 2014]. [2] C. R. Robbins, Chemical and physical behavior of human hair, 5th ed., London: Springer, 2012. [3] W. D. James, T. G. Berger and D. M. Elston, Andrews' diseases of the skin: clinical dermatology, 11th ed., London: Elsevier Health Sciences, 2011. [4] M. Feughelman, Mechanical properties and structure of A-keratin fibres: wool, human hair and related fibres, Sydney: UNSW Press, 1997. [5] R. Barrans, Polloway and M. Rodriguez, "Bleached hair," 1999. [Online]. Available: http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen99/gen99504.htm. [Accessed 1 February 2014]. [6] L. J. Wolfram, K. Hall and I. Hui, "The mechanism of hair bleaching," Journal of the society of cosmetic chemists, vol. 21, pp. 875-900, 1970. [7] W. W. Edman and M. E. Marti, "Properties of peroxide-bleached hair," Journal of the society of cosmetic chemists, vol. 12, pp. 133-146, 1961. [8] C. R. Robbins, "Cuticle damage and the tensile properties of human hair," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 42, pp. 59-67, 1991. [9] B. Bhushan, G. Wei and P. Haddad, "Friction and wear studies of human hair and skin," Wear, vol. 259, no. 7-12, pp. 1012-1021, 2005. [10] J. B. Speakman, "The plasticity of wool," Proceedings of the royal society, vol. 103, pp. 377-396, 1928. [11] J. Menkart, L. J. Wolfram and I. Mao, "Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 17, pp. 769-787, 1966. [12] C. R. Robbins and G. V. Scott, "Predcition of dry extension properties of keratin fibers from wet extension data," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 21, pp. 639-641, 1970. [13] L. Rebenfeld, H. D. Weigmann and C. Dansizer, "Temperature dependence of the mechanical properties of human hair in relation to structure," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 17, pp. 525-538, 1966. [14] E. I. Valco and G. Barnett, "A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents," Journal of the Society of Coemsetic Chemists, vol. 3, pp. 108-117, 1959. [15] C. Zviak and J. Rouet, "Melamine and dicyandiamide as depilatory accelerators". US Patent
  • 19. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 18 3,217,258, 6 September 1966. [16] S. S. Funari and L. G. Pinto, "Structural characterization of Asian, Caucasian and African human hair keratinous fibres," Desy photon science, Hamburg, 2007. [17] F. Gjesdal, "Investigation on the melanin granules with special consideration of the hair pigment," Acta pathologica et microbiologica scandinavica, vol. 47, p. 133, 1959. [18] "A comparative study of beard and scalp hair," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 34, pp. 361-368, 1983. [19] R. Wickett, "Kinetic studies of hair reduction using a single fiber technique," Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, vol. 34, pp. 301-316, 1983. 8. Appendix Appendix A: Switch number and time+cycle information Switch number Bleaching time Number of bleaching cycles + comments 1 15 1 2 15 2 3 15 3 4 30 1 5 30 2 6 30 3 7 45 1 8 45 2 9 45 3 10 60 1 11 60 2 12 60 3 13 75 1 14 75 2 15 75 3 16 90 1 17 90 2 18 90 3 19 105 1
  • 20. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 19 20 105 2 21 105 3 22 120 1 23 120 2 24 120 3 25 0 0 CONTROL 26 0 0 CONTROL 27 0 0 CONTROL Appendix B: Raw data Cycle 1 Time (minutes) 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 Trial 1 1.50 1.58 1.48 1.07 1.02 1.10 0.76 0.92 1.25 2 1.14 1.22 0.94 0.80 0.91 0.96 0.95 1.02 0.76 3 1.27 1.02 0.96 1.06 0.76 0.90 0.79 0.45 0.84 4 0.85 1.01 0.94 1.04 0.82 1.01 0.98 1.01 0.59 5 1.11 0.97 1.23 0.84 0.87 0.93 0.97 0.92 0.68 6 0.69 0.89 1.00 1.13 0.75 0.90 0.99 1.08 0.72 7 1.04 1.29 0.94 1.46 1.31 1.08 1.16 0.66 0.76 8 0.99 0.95 0.91 1.25 0.90 0.96 0.73 0.83 0.89 9 0.92 1.03 1.37 1.15 0.95 0.91 1.24 0.66 0.80 10 1.12 1.10 1.13 0.69 1.06 0.85 1.23 0.62 0.69 Avg 1.06 1.11 1.09 1.05 0.93 0.96 0.98 0.82 0.80 StD 0.23 0.21 0.20 0.23 0.17 0.08 0.19 0.21 0.18 95% CI 0.14 0.13 0.13 0.14 0.10 0.05 0.12 0.13 0.11 Cycle 2 Time (minutes) 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 Trial 1 0.87 1.47 1.13 1.50 0.99 0.85 0.87 1.00 1.03 2 0.96 0.94 1.47 1.29 0.69 1.12 0.75 0.92 1.05 3 1.09 1.12 1.13 0.96 1.02 1.32 0.88 0.48 0.72 4 0.82 0.79 0.94 1.41 0.82 1.19 0.77 0.64 1.03 5 0.95 1.24 1.13 0.96 1.11 0.92 1.00 0.87 0.98 6 1.10 0.94 1.08 1.12 1.13 1.09 1.18 0.67 0.76 7 1.39 0.97 0.97 0.93 1.22 0.73 0.77 0.99 0.84 8 1.32 1.28 1.14 1.59 1.12 1.05 1.02 0.84 0.80 9 1.19 0.97 1.53 1.23 0.94 0.85 1.17 0.78 0.66 10 1.66 1.36 0.99 1.06 1.58 0.84 0.72 1.00 0.48 Avg 1.14 1.11 1.15 1.21 1.06 1.00 0.91 0.82 0.83 StD 0.26 0.22 0.20 0.24 0.24 0.19 0.17 0.18 0.19 95% CI 0.16 0.14 0.12 0.15 0.15 0.12 0.11 0.11 0.12 Cycle 3 Time (minutes) 0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 Trial 1 1.23 1.15 1.00 1.39 1.10 0.95 0.91 0.85 0.46 2 0.99 0.72 1.03 1.13 1.14 0.81 1.22 0.30 0.84 3 1.34 1.17 0.61 1.28 0.87 1.09 0.75 0.51 0.89 4 1.16 0.72 0.81 1.05 1.33 1.24 1.11 0.78 0.82
  • 21. Vineet Chetan Yagnik IB Candidate Number: 000155-0038 February 12th , 2014 Word count: 3,915 20 5 1.46 1.03 0.88 1.17 1.29 0.87 0.03 1.37 0.64 6 0.86 1.04 0.42 1.03 1.01 0.71 1.14 0.78 0.89 7 1.12 1.11 0.99 1.18 1.27 0.33 1.02 1.29 0.94 8 0.85 0.95 0.87 0.89 0.97 1.39 0.86 0.88 0.79 9 1.44 1.04 0.63 1.12 0.78 1.25 0.91 0.99 1.11 10 1.11 1.25 1.05 1.15 0.79 0.71 1.13 1.00 0.56 Avg 1.16 1.02 0.83 1.14 1.05 0.93 0.91 0.87 0.80 StD 0.22 0.18 0.21 0.14 0.20 0.32 0.34 0.32 0.19 95% CI 0.13 0.11 0.13 0.09 0.13 0.20 0.21 0.20 0.12