This document discusses various aspects of pattern engineering and material utilization in the garment industry. It begins by introducing cost consciousness and its importance for garment designers. It then focuses on how the pattern cutting and material utilization can influence costs. Major techniques discussed are pattern accuracy, modifications to seams, hems, facings and trimmings to optimize material usage. The roles of fusibles and linings in costing are also examined along with potential pattern modifications in those areas. Overall the document provides an overview of key considerations and best practices in pattern engineering to maximize material utilization and minimize costs in garment production.

1. SEAMS AND STITCHES
GARMENT COSTING
GARMENT TRIMMINGS
PATTERN ENGINEERING
AYUSHI KHILANI
2ND YEAR DIPLOMA IN FASHION DESIGN
CONFIRMING TO NSQF LEVEL 6 OF NSDC
DEZYNE E’COLE COLLEGE
www.dezyneecole.com

2. A Project On
PATTERN
ENGINEERING
Submitted To
Dezyne E’cole College,
Civil Line,
www.dezyneecole.com
Towards The Partial Fulfilment
Of
Fashion Design NSQF Level 6
By Ayushi Khilani
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Conforming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC

3. I Am Ayushi Khilani , Student Of Fashion Design Diploma At Dezyne E’cole College. I
Would Like To Thank All The Mentors Who Had Helped Me To Complete This Project.
I Also Thank Dezyne E’cole College For Giving Me This Opportunity And Helped Me To
Understand The Technical Working Of Fashion Designing
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

4. SYNOPSIS
Does This Vast And Enlarging Industry .Works Taking All The Measures Of Control And Innovative Ideas Of Presenting
The Work?
Who All Are The People Working Out There And How The Work Have Been Assigned To All Of Them?
What Kind Of Standards And Rules They Follow For The Succession Of The Clothing Industry ?
These Are The Questions Which This Project Will Be Carrying Ahead And Providing With The Answer To These And Lot
More Quires .
In This Project We Will Deal With The Sub Departments Of The Production Department, The Sample Room, Different Types
Of Fusible And Their Construction (As Well As The Benefit Of All The Different Types Of Fusibles And Their Uses),we Will
Come Across The Types Of Seams , Their Standards And In Which Classes They Have Been Divided According To Their
Utility,. With This We Will Gain A Quick Glimpse Of The Machinery Used For Different Types Of Fabric( Their Construction,
Technical Working Of The Machinery, Parts Of The Machinery, Utility And Their Inventions).
Before All This We Will Be Heading With The Most Important Concept Of Garment Industry I.E., Profit And The Garment
Costing As Well As The Efficiency And Affectability Of The Departments With Quality Of The Tailored Garment.
The Vast Clothing Industry Which Is More Of A Technical Work Organization And Has Contributed From So Many Years For
The Trends With Advanced Way Of Clothing And Is Still Engaged In The Process Of Inventing Newer Ideas For Incarnating
The Best Ripped Outcome, But
How

5.  COST CONSCIOUSNESS
 DESIGNER AND GARMENT COST
 MATERIAL UTILISATION
 GARMENT TRIMMINGS
 INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT
TECHNOLOGY
 SAMPLE CUTTING
 FUSING TECHNOLOGY
 WHAT MAKES IT A BRANDED APPAREL
 SEAMS AND STITCHES
 INSPECTION AND QUALITY CHECK
 SAMPLE ROOM
 TECH COMMUNICATION
 MANAGEMENT AND ORGANISATION
CONTENTS

6. Chapter-1

7. They Accumulate A Great Expertise Regarding The Suitability Of Products
Prices And Production Demands. Knowing This, The Company Is Able To Break Down Its Average Ex-factory Price Into The Main Components , Such
As Materials ,Labor, Overheads And Profit.
The Result Of This Analysis Provide The Designer With An Accurate Indication Of What Can Be Invested In An Average Garment In Terms Of Material
And Labor, By Referring To These Times And To An Average Garment, The Designer Can Make Fairly Accurate Estimates Of The Work Content Of
Each New Design. After That The Designer Will Have To Evaluate Whether The Operations Required Will Fit Into The Production Balance Of The
Factory This Is The Whole Procedure Of Cost Consciousness.
Divisions Of Cost Consciousness:
1.) The Designer And The Garment Costs
2.) Pattern Cutting And Material Utilization.
3.) Garment Trimmings.
Glimpse Of Section 1:the Designer And Garment Costs:
It Includes Following Framework
 Market Specialization
 The Average Garment Concept
Introduction:
There Are Many Factors Which Can Influence Profitability , But In Normal Circumstances Profitability Originates To A Large Extent In The Design
Section. The Majority Of Clothing Manufacturers Concentrate On Serving And Expanding Their Share Of A Specific Section Within A Sector, As A
Result
COST CONSCIOUSNESS

8. sales
design marketing
Review of
collection
Produce
core sample
Approval of
core design
Indications
of trend
Market
research
Final costing
Trial costing
Core design
exchange of
ideas
First collection
plan
Material
research
Material
orders
Receipt of
materials
Extension of
core designs
Produce
collection
Customer
contact
Agents/reps
Fashion shows
Marketing
programmed
Approval of
core sample

9. CHAPTER 2

10.  THE DESIGNER AND GARMENT COSTS:
FRAMEWORK
Market Specialisation Average Garment Concept
Market Specialization Is Where The Clothing Industry Is Divided Into Sectors Called Subdivisions .Here They Accumulated A
Great Deal Of Expertise Regarding The Suitability Of Products, Price And Production Demands . When It Comes To
Average Garment Cost This Term Refers To A Typical Garment Produced By The Unit With Balance Between The Various
Groups Of Operations Of Garment Have To Be Evaluated For Costs At The Sampling Stage Because Making Samples
Without Regard Of Price Is Often Futile.
So, There The Designers And Pattern Makers Have To Modify Designs And Patterns So As To Bring A New Sample Into The
Correct Framework But When We Talk Of Correct Framework Garment Costing Is The Vital Concept For It .
It I Also Called As Bill Of Materials There The Garment Costing Details The Costs Of Every Item Attribute To The Production
Of A Particular Garment.
It Indicates Components Of A Costing Which Are Under:
Direct Material
Direct Labor
Factory Overhead
All This Will Provide With General Overhead .
After Making The Garment Costing The Designers Role Is To Prepare The Garment Costing Which Collates All The
Relevant Information And Calculates Money Values.
DESIGNER AND GARMENT COST

11. The Garment Costing:
It Is Considered As The Costs Of Every Item Attributable To The Production Costing Details The Costs Of Every Item Attributable To The Production Of
A Particular Garment. The Sum Of These Costs Plus The Profit Margin Is The Selling Price Which The Company Will Quote To Consumer.
While Preparing Costing, The Components Are Grouped Under Four Heading:
Direct Material
Direct labour
Factory overhead
General overhead
Component Of A Costing:
BASICS DIRECT LABOURDIRECT MATERIAL FACTORY OVERHEAD GENERAL OVERHEAD
 Items Included
 Relationship
Cloth , Lining , Fusible
,Buttons , Zips , Pads,
Tapes , Labels , Tickets
, Packing Material Etc.
Labor Used For Cutting
, Fusing , Sewing ,
Pressing , Inspection ,
And Packing.
 Indirect Material
 Expenses
 Indirect Labor.
Cost Incurred On
 Management
 Marketing
 Warehousing, Rent
Etc.
Direct Relation To
Costing.
Direct Relation To
Costing.
Indirect Relation To
Costing.
Indirect Relation To
Costing.
DESIGNER AND GARMENT COST

12. Chapter-3

13. They Accumulate A Great Expertise Regarding The Suitability Of Products
Prices And Production Demands. Knowing This, The Company Is Able To Break Down Its Average Ex-factory Price Into The Main Components , Such
As Materials ,Labor, Overheads And Profit.
The Result Of This Analysis Provide The Designer With An Accurate Indication Of What Can Be Invested In An Average Garment In Terms Of Material
And Labor, By Referring To These Times And To An Average Garment, The Designer Can Make Fairly Accurate Estimates Of The Work Content Of
Each New Design. After That The Designer Will Have To Evaluate Whether The Operations Required Will Fit Into The Production Balance Of The
Factory This Is The Whole Procedure Of Cost Consciousness.
Pattern Cutting And Material Utilisation:
This Examines The Critical Influence Of The Garment Pattern On The Pivotal Activities In A Clothing Factory. Over The Years, various Researchers
Have Established That Approximately 85% Of The Materials Purchased Are In The Finished Garment, With The Remainder For One Reason Or
Another Ending Up As Waste. Whilst The Pattern Cutter Room, There Are A Number Of Procedures Which Can Be Employed To Ensure That The
Garment Pattern Makes The Minimum Possible Demands On Material Requirements, These Procedures Are Grouped Together Under The Heading Of
Pattern Engineering.
Apart From Effective Design Interpretation, The Pattern Cutter Has A Major Responsibility To Provide The Basis For The Most Effective Usage Of
Materials. There Is No Doubt That Pattern Cutting , Whether Performed Manually Or With A CAD System, Is The Most Important Technical Process In
The Production Of Clothing Which We Will Study In The Upcoming Pages.
Glimpse Of Pattern Cutting And Material Utilization:
 Material Utilization.
 Pattern Engineering.
Introduction:
There Are Many Factors Which Can Influence Profitability , But In Normal Circumstances Profitability Originates To A Large Extent In The Design
Section. The Majority Of Clothing Manufacturers Concentrate On Serving And Expanding Their Share Of A Specific Section Within A Sector, As A
Result
MATERIAL UTILISATION

14. PATTERNENGINEERING
 PATTERN ACCURACY
 MAJOR MODIFICATIONS
 MAKING UP ALOWANCE
MODIFICATIONS IN:
Seams
Hems
Facing width
Trimmings
Fusible
Linings
MATERIAL UTILISATION

15. Pattern Engineering:
It Is The Overall Objectives Of Pattern Engineering Are To Improve The Utilisation Factors Of A Garment Through Prudent Modifications Which Do Not
Degrade The Design Integrity.
Pattern Accuracy:
It Is The Fundamental Subject. It Is Said, With Justification, That Apart From Cutting Mistakes, The Accuracy Of A Pattern Cutter Can Be Judged By
The Amount And Size Of The Cutting Found On The Sewing Room Floor. Apart From The Waste Materials, The Production Operator Are To Some
Extent Prevented From Doing The Work They Are Paid To Do, So This Situation Is A Two Fold Loss For The Company . It Can Be Eliminated To A
Large Extent By Greater Precision On The Part Of The Pattern Cutter.
Major Modification:
These Modifications Could Include Seam Displacements,
Slight Reductions In Flare, Splitting Very Large Components,
Separate Instead Of Extended Facings , Etc. Some Examples
Are Shown In Fig (1). These Major Modifications, Require A
Pragmatic Type Of Flexibility From The Designer And Pattern
Cutter Because, Design Considerations Apart, Every Saving
In Materials Is A Potential Advantage For The Company.
Making Up Allowance:
This Covers Seam And Hem Allowances And Facing Widths.
According To American Survey (Hudson 1989), Seam And
Hem Allowances Together Account For Approx. 5.5% Of The
Material Used For The Actual Garments.
So It Is Up To The Pattern Cutter To Ensure That Al These
Allowances Are The Practical Minimum Possible.
Original Modified Reduced Increased
Original OriginalModified Modified
A: Front with extended facing B:Side seam displacement
C: Two piece inverted pleat D: Splitting a one piece sleeve
MATERIAL UTILISATION

16. Major Modifications In :
 Seams
 Hems
 Facing Width
 Trimmings
 Fusible
 Linings
1) Seams:
 The Most Important Properties Of A Seam Are Strength And Flexibility
 Determined By A Number Of Technical Factors And Characteristics Of Fabric ., Width Of The Seam Allowance.
 Width Of Seam Allowance Is Primarily Decided By The Characteristics Of The Fiber To Be Sewn And The Type Of Seam Being Sewn.
 Seam Referred To As A Superimposed Seam (Ss),is Constructed By Sewing Two Components Together Along One Edge Of Each
Piece And The Seam Is Usually Pressed Open.
Over Many Years, The Clothing Industry Has Improved That For Regularly Constructed Fabrics, The Optimal Seam Margin For Assembly Seams Is
1 Cm.
This Width Combines Three Important Elements:
 Lateral Strength
 Handing
 Visual Control
 Enclosed seam for edges.  lap felled seam  Top stitching on light weight materials.  Top stitching on heavy weight materials.
MAJOR MODIFICATION IN SEAMS:
MATERIAL UTILISATION

17. 2.) Hems:
 This Refers To The Turn-ups On The Lower Extremities Of Body Garments , Skirts ,Trousers And Sleeves Etc.
 The Guiding Principle For This Group Of Allowance Is That They Should Be Just Sufficient For Their Purpose But No More. Both These Elements
Have A Beneficial Influence On A Garment,
 This Contributes To Its Overall Quality.
Different Garments Types Have Varying Requirements As Regards Acceptable Hem Widths And The General Industrial Practice Is :
MATERIAL UTILISATION

18. 3) Facing Width:
The Width Of A Front Facing Depends To A Large Extent On The Direction Of The Buttonholes In Relation To The Front Edges.
There Are Two Standard Directions:
 Vertical (When The Buttonholes Are Parallel To The Front Edge.)
 Horizontal ( Where The Buttonholes Are At Right Angle To Front
Edge)
The Facing Which Govern The Calculation Of The Relevant
Facing Widths Are Given Below:
Vertical Buttonholes – Nearly Always Located On The Center
Front Line Of Single Breasted
Garments, E.G.. Blouses , Shirts.
Horizontal Buttonholes -- Facing For Garments With Horizontal
Buttonholes Can Be Divided Into Two Sections:
Section 1 From The Shoulder To The Top Buttonhole.
Section 2 From The Top Buttonhole Down To The Hem.
The Details Which Have To Be Taken Into Account When
Calculating The Width Of The Lower Section Are:
• Distance Between The Eye And The Front Edge = ½ Diameter
Of Button + (5 Or 6 Mm).
• Length Of Buttonhole.
• Allowance From The End Of The Buttonhole To The Inside
Edge Of The Facing.
MATERIAL UTILISATION

19. COMPONENTS OF FACINGDiagrams of
components of
facing
Front edge
Eye to edge
Sewing
allowance
Total width
Buttonhole
length
MATERIAL UTILISATION

20. 4) Cut Trimmings:
The Two Most Widely Used Cut-trimmings Are:
Fusible And Linings
And As Together They Represent A Significant Cost Component
Of Garments, The Patterns For These Materials Also Have To
Contain Only The Practical Minimum Possible.
5) Fusible:
The Effect Of Fusible On The Garment Can Be Seen , But The Fusible
Themselves Cannot Be Seen.
This Allows For Some Creative Pattern Engineering To Be Applied.
About This We Will Be Dealing In Detail In The Following Sections Of The
Project.
LINNING IN COATS FUSING ROLL
MATERIAL UTILISATION

21. 6) Linings:
Linings Are Also An Important Cost Component And Whilst The Potential For Pattern Modifications Is Limited, There Are Some Minor Procedures
Which Can Enhance The Utilisation Of Materials.
A Simple And Convenient Work-aid Which Can Help The Pattern Cutter, Is To Mark On His Or Her Work Table The Standard Width Of The Lining Used
By The Factory.
Some Of The Possible Modifications Are Given Below:
 Skirt Lining
 Body Lining
Skirt Lining –
Conventionally, Skirt Lining Patterns Are Positioned In Cutting Markers According To The Warp Grain Line Of The Material.
If Folded Lining Is Used, This Pattern Arrangement Generally Leads To A Relatively High Percentage Of Marker Waste.
An Option Which Can Be Used On Open Lining, Pattern Length Permitting, Is To Position The Patter Component Across The Lining Instead Of Down
The Length.
Because The Weft Direction Is Generally Strong Enough To Withstand The Regular Pressures Exerted On Skirt Linings.
SEAT LIINGS
KNEE LENGTH LININGS
MATERIAL UTILISATION

22. Body Linings --
The Two Main Components Of A Full Lining Are The Body And The Sleeves And The Following Examines What Can Be Applied To Both Of Them .
 The Body:
Displacing The Side Seams Could Lead To A More Efficient Marker.
Could Take Three Different Forms Where A Reasonable Seam Displacement Of Say, 3 Cm At Each Point Not Exceeded
1) From Zero At The Armhole To A Maximum Of 3cm At The Hem.
2) From Zero At The Hem To A Maximum Of 3cm At The Armhole.
3) Displacing The Entire Length Of The Side Seam Up To 3cm In Either Direction
MATERIAL UTILISATION

23.  The Sleeves:
The Pattern For Sleeve Linings Allow For Simple Modifications Because The Major Part Of Their Length Is Concealed.
These Modifications Fall Into Two Categories:
 Joins
When The Pattern Cutter Sees That There Is An Advantage In Joining A Sleeve Pattern , Proper Pattern For The Jointed Parts Should Be Prepared
Instead Of Relying On The Marker Planner To Establish The Join Line , Add Seam Allowances And Mark Sewing Alignment Nips.
 Seam Displacements
A Good Example Of Seam Displacement Are Those Which Can Be Applied To Standard , Two-piece Tailored Sleeve.
Following Figs Show All Concern Displacements Of The Hind Arm Seam Because Displacements Of The Forearm Seam Can Cause
Problems Due To The Differences In Seam Locations.
MATERIAL UTILISATION

24. CHAPTER-4

25. Trimmings: In Total All The Trimmings Used In Garments Can Be A Substantial Item And So Their Selection And Use Require Careful
Consideration. Linings:
 Viscose
 Rayon
 Polyester
viscose
rayon
silk
polyester
PRIMARY TRIMMINGS
LININGS* *
* *
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

26. FUNCTIONS AND CONSUMER APPEAL:
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

27. Closures:
Most Garments Require Some Form Of Working Parts To Open And Close Them And Those Parts Which Are Not Attached To The Garment During Its
Production Have To Be Added In The Finishing Process. Typical Closure Systems Are Discussed Here :
Buttons , hooks , eyes , press Studs , Zippers, Velcro ,Etc.
TYPES OF BUTTONS:
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

28. 1) Hooks And Eyes:
TYPES OF HOOKS AND EYE:
This Is Relatively Simple
Closure System Which Is
Widely Used For Zip Opening
On Dresses And Blouses
Made From Light Weight
Materials.
Hooks And Eyes Can Be
Sewn On By Hand Or By A
Simple Button Sewing
Machine Fitted With Special
Clamps For The Two
Working Parts.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

29. 1) Hooks And Eyes:2) zipper:
TYPES OF ZIPPER:
Structure of zip
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

30. 3) Velcro:
TYPES OF VELCRO Diagrammatic rep.
When The Two Pile
Surfaces Are
Pressed Together,
The Hooks Engage
The Loops Creating
A Closure Area .
Shoe closure Apparel closure
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

31. 3) Paddings
TYPES OF PADDING USED IN FITTINGS
Advanced Technology
In Modern Time The Apparel Needs
Are Also Changing And To Adapt In
The Cosmopolitan World Satisfying
Consumer With Total Comfort Is
The Prime Object Of Every
Successful Production Unit.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

32. 3) Tapes:
TYPES OF TAPES
Advanced Technology
These Are Narrow Bands Of Woven
Fabric Which Are Used For The
Following Purpose In The Make Up
Of Clothing.
Decorative: For Binding Edges Of
Collars , Lapels And Flaps, Etc.
Stretch Control: To Prevent Seams
Or Edges From Stretching During
Making Up.
Finishing : Sometimes Used
Instead Of Over Locking On Visible
Seam And Hem Edges.
GARMENT TRIMMINGS

33. CHAPTER-5

34. Discovery Of Machines:
INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

35. Tools And Machines Used In Ancient Time:
INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

36. Tools And Machines Used In Modern Time:
INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

37. INDUSTRIAL VISIT– MACHINERY KNOWLEDGE
CHAPTER-6

38. Tools And Machines Used In Modern Time:
Bar Tack And Buttonhole Machine
INDUSTRIAL VISIT– MACHINERY KNOWLEDGE

39. Market Research
Buttons Closure Machinery
INDUSTRIAL VISIT– MACHINERY KNOWLEDGE

40. Market Research
Elastic Machinery
INDUSTRIAL VISIT– MACHINERY KNOWLEDGE

41. Tools And Machines Used In Modern Time:
This Is The Newer And Simple Stitching
Machine With Best Functioning With
Mobility And It Is Preferred For Small Daily
Works With The Soft Smooth Design
Stitches And Efficient Works With Low
Cost.
Mini-mobile Sewn Machines
Mini Sewing Machines
INDUSTRIAL VISIT– MACHINERY KNOWLEDGE

42. CHAPTER-7

43. The Sample Room Is The Research And Development Department
Of A Clothing Factory , And One Of The Technical Subject Which
Has To Be Examined Is Cutting. Before A Sample Garment Can Be
Mass-produced Its Practicality And Efficiency As Regards Cutting
Have To Be Ensured; It Is Irresponsible To Present The Cutting
Room With Unresolved Problems.
Garment Pattern And Fabric :
Following Are The Four Preparatory Processes Which Have To Be
Carried Out Before Starting To Cut Sample :
The Pattern : Medium Of Communication
Grain Lines : Establishing Linear Relationship Between Garment
Pattern And Cloth.
Pile Direction : Influences Component Arrangements.
Fabric Pattern: Taken Into Account.
Matching fabric
pattern
SAMPLE CUTTING

44. Pile Direction:
SAMPLE CUTTING

45. Fabric Pattern:
Two Way Fabric Pattern Overall Fabric Pattern
SAMPLE CUTTING

46. Marker Planning:
To Cut A Sample Garment ,The Pattern Components Have To Be Economically Arranged To Their Grain Lines And The Pile Direction Of The Fabric
Which Is To Be Cut . The Regular Form Of This Arrangement Is A Rectangle With The Short Side Equivalent To The Net Width Of The Fabric And The
Long Side The Length Required To Contain The Pattern Components. The Drawing Of This Arrangement Is A Cutting Marker.
Principles Of Marker Planning :
 Manual Planning.
 Computer Aided Marker Planning.
SAMPLE CUTTING

47. Principles Of Marker Planning :
 Manual Planning.
Placement Of Paper Pattern On FabricMarker On Paper
SAMPLE CUTTING

48. PRINCIPLES OF MARKER PLANNING :
 Automatic Machine Aided Planning process.
Laying Fabric Establishing The Base Layers Of Fabric
Commanding Instructions Cutter Cutting Operation Started
Multi Layer Cutter Fabric Pattern Sharp Edges
SAMPLE CUTTING

49. Cutting Checks And Stripes
There Is No One Single Proven Method Of Cutting These Materials Because Cloth Patterns And Garment Patterns Vary Considerably And There Is A
Possibility That The Cloth Has Been Distorted During Its Finishing Processes. However, There Are Some Basic Techniques And Approaches Which
Can Be Used And They Relate To :
The suitability of the garment pattern
Where to match the cloth pattern When symmetry is necessary
The fabric pattern itself
SAMPLE CUTTING

50. Final outfit
SAMPLE CUTTING
PRINT MATCHING

51. CHAPTER-8

52. The Term Fusible Interlining Is Used To Describe A Base Fabric
Coated On One Side With A Thermoplastic Adhesive Resin Which
Can Be Bound To Another Fabric By Controlled Application Of Heat
And Pressure. There Materials, Generally Called Fusibles, Provide
The Designer With A Number Of Properties Which Can Enhance
The Appearance Of Finished Garments By Following :
Control And Stability Of Critical Areas.
Reinforcement Of Specific Design Features.
Minimum Of Modifications To The ‘Handle’ Of The Top Cloth.
Preservation Of A Crisp And Fresh Look.
Construction Of Fusibles :
A Fusible Combines The Following Three Factors In Its
Construction:
1) Base Material: Substrate.
2) Thermoplastic Resins: Synthetic Resin Which Melts When
Subjected To Heat And Revert To Their Original Solid State.
3) Coating : The Amount Of Resin Deposited And How It Is
Secured On The Base Fabric.
THE PRINCIPLES OF FUSING TECHNOLOGY

53. BASE MATERIALS
Non- Woven SubstrateKnitted SubstrateWoven Substrate
THE PRINCIPLES OF FUSING TECHNOLOGY

54. Resins:
Resins Are The Sole Bonding Agent Between The Top Cloth And Substrate And Irrespective Of The Type Of Resin Used , They Have To Conform To
The Following Conditions:
Upper Limit Temperature– It Rarely Exceeds 175C
Lower Limit Temperature – For Most Fusibles This Is About 110C.
Clean Ability– The Resin Have To Be Sufficiently Strong To Withstand Washing.
Handle– Must Contribute To The Required Handle.
Resin Type Fusing system Durability
Relative cost
Polyethylene
(low density)
Polyethylene
(high density)
Polyamide
Polyester
Plasticised
C.A
phenolic
Limited
Not
Recommended
Good
Good
Good
Limited
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
good
Suitable
Good
Limited
Limited
Suitable
Limited
Limited
Good
Good
Good
Suitable
suitable
low
Medium
High
Medium
Medium
medium
steam electric wash Dry clean
THE PRINCIPLES OF FUSING TECHNOLOGY

55. What Makes It The Branded
Apparel?
CHAPTER -9

56. Seams And Stitches

57. Seams And Stitches

58. Working With Coral Software For Diagrammatic Representation Of Seams
Seams And Stitches

59. Seams And Stitches

60. Seams And Stitches

61. BOUND SEAMS LAPPED SEAM
SUPERIMPOSED
SEAM
SANDWITCH SEAM ENCLOSED SEAM FLAT SEAM
FRENCH SEAM
Seams And Stitches

62. CHAPTER -10

63. Finishing And Inspection Are The Two Major Operations In The
Manufacture Of Garments Before They Are Bagged Or Boxed To
The Finished Goods Warehouse.
In Most Factories These Operations Are Carried Out In Separate
Departments.
These Two Processes Are Vital In The Production Of Sample
Garments Because Finishing Ensures That The Garment Is
Correctly Completed In Every Detail, And Inspection Verifies That
In Conforms To Relevant Quality Standards.
Top Pressing
Attaching Fasteners
And Haberdashery.
Labels Cleaning
GARMENT FINISHING AND INSPECTION

64. CHAPTER 11

65. The Sample Room Comprises Of A Small Number Of Team For Making The Sample
Product Which Will Further Be Produced On Large Small By The Production
Department, The Sample Room Comprises Of Specialist Labor In Machinery And An
Illustrator , Fashion Designer And A Small Team Of Students On Intern
THE SAMPLE ROOM

66. CHAPTER -12

67. The Communication Of Information Is An Integral Part Of The
Day To Day Working Routine In The Design Department. In
Operational Terms, These Communications Have Three Forms:
1) The Garment Identification System Used Within The
Company.
2) The Means And The Type Of Information By Which The
Designer Communicates With The Design And Sample
Room Staff At The Inception Of The Design.
3) The Form And The Content Of The Information On The
Completion And Handing Over Of The Sample Garment.
In All The Instances The Accuracy Of The Information
Transmitted Is Important Because There Is No Place For
Guesswork In An Organization Which Wants To Be Efficient.
As Buzz-words, Information And Communication Have Been
Around For A Long Time. Today Everybody Actively Engaged In
Commercial And Industrial Activities Is Conscious Of The
Operative Importance Of These Two Words.
In A Clothing Manufacturing Company, The Designer Plays A
Pivotal Role In The Interchange Of Information Because All The
Garments Produced By The Company Start Their Existence In
The Design Department.
COMMUNICATION

68. Images of fashion industry working cycle.
Use new outsize black Collar like 596
Pocket in side seam
False vent
O pen vent seam
Stitch size:
30/3
matching
6 mm
Textall| 6164| 100% wool |
beige 22
Ben hont |456 |body 32
|matching
Linetex | 551| beige | body
sleeves
Brand/size | gerlin |back
neck
Fuse mat | 388 | beige|
fronts
Pollster | 1361 | L
SEASON/PHASE DESCRIPTION NUMBER SIZE MAKE-UP DESIGNER PATTERN
DESIGN SPECIFICATION
Spring/2 | Outsize Jacket | 644 | 22 | Standasd | Janet | Mark
COMMUNICATION

69. Dior’s production house and the working
cycle
PRODUCTION PROCESS IN APPAREL
INDUSTRY
COMMUNICATION

70. COVERPAGE
CHAPTER -12

71. Management Is Essential For All Organized Activity , And
Regardless Of The Size The Design Department Is No Exception .
The Formal Process Whereby Somebody Is Appointed To Be In
Charge Of The Department Means That For All Practical Purposes
This Person Is The Manager And Has To Operate The Department
With All That The Word Management Involves.
For A Large-scale Manufacturer Of Fashion Wear Would Operate A
Big Design Department Which Needs More Space And Personnel
And A Great Deal Department Is Responsible For The Production
Of A Large Quantity Of The Sample Garments, The Total Operation
Would Probably Be Divided Into Two Groups, The Design Section
And The Sample Room.
The Management Of A Design Department Requires A Large
Element Of Technocracy But As This Department Becomes Larger,
The Quality Of A Manager Is Based Less On Technocratic Ability
And More On The Manager As A Person.
MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION

72. PRODUCTION OPERATIONS IN A LARGER SCALE ORGANIZATION:
Design
Section
Sample
Room
Production
Unit
MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION

73.  DESIGN SECTION
MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION

74.  SAMPLE ROOM
MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION

75.  PRODUCTION UNIT
MANAGEMENT & ORGANISATION

76. THANK YOU
By Ayushi khilani
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
Conforming To NSQF Level 6 Of NSDC
Dezyne E’cole College , Ajmer