Heena Soni ,Student of Degree Progarmmein Fashion Design From Dezyne E'cole College ,This project is a showcase of her work after her two years of diploma programme opted along with the Degree Studies .The study programme course contents are Industry aligned and Endorsed by the ministry of Skill NSDC.
www.dezyneecole.com
Heena Soni ,B,Sc -Fashion Design + Second Year Advance Diploma In fashion Design
1.
2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The fulfillment of any project is in consequence of integrated effort of a number of
people. This project report has been possible only through the guidance and help of my
mentors at Dezyne E’cole College.
I express my sincere thanks to all my teachers for their support and direction, and my
genuine gratitude to Dezyne E’cole College who gave me an opportunity to show my
abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization.
HEENA SONI
Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology
+ 2 year Advance Diploma Programme
3. The project report of Ms. Heena Soni student of B.Sc. Fashion Technology with 2 year
women's wear Fashion Diploma Programme has been checked & grade as-
_________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________
Thank You
Principal
(Seal & Signature)
Dezyne E’cole College
106/10,civil lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
4. SYNOPSIS
Heartily present my gratitude to Dezyne E’cole College for give me direction to my career through 2
years advanced diploma in fashion technology with my bachelors degree as well.
During this I learnt construction knowledge of (women's wear and kids wear) pattern engineering,
computer aided designing, grading, illustrations, draping, print making, fashion history and industry,
fiber to fabric, surface design techniques, origami, traditional Indian textile, print and printing
technology and so on…
Not only learnt but also showcase in the events like…
Annual exhibition- IDENTITY
Fashion show at annual event KALEIDOSCOPE.
In the subsequent pages of my work portfolio I present my 2 years working and my projects also.
During diploma and degree programme.
5. • What Is Design?
• Elements & Principles Of Design
• Garment Industry
• Fashion History
• Fashion Illustration
• Technical Drawings
• Surface Design Techniques
• Draping
• Drafting Of Pattern
• Pattern Drafting, Sizing & Resizing, Grading, Marker
Making, Prototype Development, Seams & Finishes.
• Computer Aided Designing
CONTENT
6. PROJECTS
• Saree Design Project
• Fashion Show Project
• Year Diploma Project – Geometry
• 1 Year Diploma Project- Office Wear
7. ACTIVITIES
• Annual Exhibition - IDENTITY
• Annual Function – KALEIDOSCOPE
• Visit To an International Fabric Fair
• Market Survey
8. WHAT IS DESIGN?
Design is the creation of a plan or convention for the
construction of an object, system or measurable human
interaction (as in architectural blueprints, engineering drawings,
business processes, circuit diagrams, and sewing patterns).
Design has different connotations in different fields. In some
cases, the direct construction of an object (as in pottery,
engineering, management, coding, and graphic design) is also
considered to be design.
The person designing is called a designer, which is also a term
used for people who work professionally in one of the various
design areas, usually also specifying which area is being dealt
with (such as a fashion designer, concept designer or web
designer). A designer's sequence of activities is called a design
process. The scientific study of design is called design science.
9. ELEMENTS & PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
Design process involves the combining of
known design components in varied ways to
create new products.
Elements of design are those components
which the designers employ in all forms of
art and design. Understanding of these
elements and using them in different ways
enables the designer to produce different art
and visual effects.
Every design demands arranging of its
component in manners which are the best
dictated by certain principles. These
principles of design guide the arrangement of
elements of design to make it a good piece of
art.
12. GARMENT INDUSTRY
The word fashion is derived from a Latin word “Facere”, which means “to make” or “to do”. Fashion playing most
important role in a persons life and fashion is also responsible for persons image. The term fashion is synonymously
with garment. A garment is not just because it is worn to become fashion a garment has to reflect the socio culture.
As a generic term fashion includes all product and clothing, accessories, products, cuisines, living etc. Within the
spare of technology, design technology is perhaps the fastest growing industries today. Over the past year the
garment industry has been building up on its capacities at various levels, expanding its products base, incorporating
innovative technology and newer sectors of business. The apparel industry (including garment retail fashion
designing and accessories trade) is booming now days. The rapid increase in job opportunities and expanding
earning capabilities has resulted as a newer idea amongst consumers. The two sectors of garment industry are-
• Made to measure industry i.e. Haute Couture
• Ready to wear or Pret-e-porter
The three categories in which garment industry runs-
• Women's wear
• Men's wear
• Kids wear
13. • The Ancient World (pre History – 600 BC)
• Prowess and Protection
• Medieval Romance & trade (600 BC – 1449 AC)
• Renaissance Splendor (1450 - 1624)
• Baroque and Rococo (1625-1789)
• From Revolution to Frivolity (1790- 1900)
• La Belle Epoque and Jazz Age (1901- 1946)
• From Glamour to Utility (Functionality) (1929-1946)
• Optimism & Youth (1947-1963)
• Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock (1964-1979)
• The Designer Decades (1980- Onwards)
Fashion Timeline
The timeline of fashion can be divided into
two biblical periods BC and AC.
14. The Ancient World
• Paintings, sculptures, artefacts and scraps of
clothing and jewellery all provide clues as to
how people lived and dressed in the ancient
world.
• Civilizations influenced each other as cultures
met through war, exploration and commercial
exchange.
• Fine linen was woven on the banks of the Nile
in Egypt.
• Sericulture from China supplied silks.
• The Greeks and Romans created wool
tapestries
• The Etruscans crafted ornate, tooled metal
work.
18. Byzantine Empire
(600 BC -1449 Ac)
Medieval Romance & Trade
• The age of migration
• The early middle ages
• Trends in tunics
• The east in the west
19. (1625 –
1789)
Baroque and Rococo
• Men in lace
• Softer silhouette
• Doublet and Breeches
• Boned bodice to mantua
• Masquerades (masks)
• Turkish Delight
• Sporting dresses
(1450 - 1624 )
Renaissance Splendour
• New men in new world
• From drape to shape
• Practical clothing
• Female geometry
20. • High ruffs and wasp waists
• Empire lines
• The evening hourglass
• Crinolines
(1790 -
1900)
From Revolution to Frivolity (1901 –
1928)
La Belle Époque and Jazz Age
• Women in action
• Orientalism
• Rising hems
• Simple silhouettes
21. (1929 – 1946)
From Glamour to Utility
• Shimmering gowns
• Women in wartime
• Fashion and ration
• American ready to wear
• Berliner chic
Optimism & Youth(1947 - !963)Optimism & Youth
• The New look
• Cocktail hours
• Feminine form
• Hipsters and teenagers
• The youth revolution
• Birth of a teenager
• Sports style
22. (1980-onwards)Designer Decades
• Fitness in fashion
• Japanese style
• Comme de garscon
• Street style
• Urban club
• Minimal and conceptual
• Boho chic
(1964 – 1979)
Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock
• Mini magic
• Twiggy
• Mini coats and skirts
• Into the space age
• Women in trouser
• Long printed dresses
23. FASHION ILLUSTRATION
“The best way to a good idea is to have lots of ideas. – Linus
Pauling”
Sketching is the beginning step of designing and sketches are an
important part of design and development process. Some of the
best ideas starts with a sketch. It is a powerful process to use
because it always helps discover the best ideas and solutions to
a design problem. It gives people the freedom to consider every
wild thought or idea generation without the fear of making
mistake.
Why sketching is important-
An excellent way to quickly explore concepts. Quick way to
create the basic composition of our thought for design .
Saves the time in work process.
Great for brainstorming ideas.
In the field of fashion designing, fashion illustrations plays a very
important role. Sketches are the first look of any design.
27. TECHNICAL DRAWING
Technical drawings are essential for anyone working in
the fashion industry. Used to convey design ideas and
garment details to pattern cutters and machinists, it is
essential that they are drawn accurately to avoid
misunderstanding and costly mistakes in sampling and
production.
Flats: Technical Drawing for Fashion explains how to
create a technical fashion drawing using a simple and
straightforward step-by-step method accompanied by
some time-saving tips.
35. SURFACE DESIGN
Surface design techniques are used to decorate the surface of a fabric which is also called as surface
ornamentation. we can create different patterns and prints on the surface of the fabric. These techniques are used
as decorative element in a design or some times structural also. these techniques can applied from the top as block
printing or applique work and also can be adopted, at the time of fabric manufacturing as ikkat or brocade.
For any fashion designer fabric first need to be prepared with textures and then used for style and design
development. Style requires plain textures and some time textures fabric to create a better style.
Here are various types of surface design technique which are widely used in fashion industry:-
Tie and Dye
Printing – (Screen, Block, Roller, Batik etc.)
Hand Painting
Embroidery
Applique and Patch Work
Bead Work
Fabric Manipulation
36. TIE AND DYE
Tie and dye is a resist dyeing technique from ancient time periods. The process of tie and dye typically consist of
folding, twisting, pleating or crumpling fabric/garment and binding with string or rubber bands and than deep into
dyes. Tie and dye is used to create a wide variety of designs on fabric, from various patterns such as spiral, stripes,
diamond, marble effect to beautiful work of art.
Shibori is a Japanese art of tie and dye it includes a number of labor intensive resist techniques including stitching
elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing, forming intricate patterns. Another Shibori
method is to wrap the fabric around the core of rope ,wood or other material and bind it tightly with string or
thread. The areas of the fabric that are against the core or under the binding would remain undyed.
In India Bandhna is very famous art which is also known as Bandhej and Bandhani. It’s a shape resist dyeing
technique to create such beautiful pre defined patterns. Another method of bandhna is Leheriya which gives the
beautiful stripes pattern on fabric. These are highly used to produce the apparel textile, accessories such as scarfs ,
hand bags, home furnishing products etc.
A different and most expensive method of tie and dye in India is Ikkat. In this process of tie and dyeing the warp or
weft dye before the cloth is woven. In south or east India it is called as Ikkat, and in western sides it is known as
Patola, which is a type of double Ikkat method.
44. FABRIC MANIPULATION
For any fashion designer fabric first needs to be prepared with
textures and then used for style and design
Development .
Style requires plain textures and some times textures fabric to be
create better style.
Here presenting few best ideas of textures which I learnt at my
study of fashion design at Dezyne E'cole collage .
51. EMBROIDERY
Embroidery is a craft with ancient origins, dating back to early cultures
across the globe. By using a needle, thread or yarn is sewn on to a base
material or fabric to create a pattern. Today, embroidery continues to
be a popular craft and is often featured on clothing and decorative
housewares. Learning how to embroider is fairly simple, but true
mastery can take years and an untold amount of patience, not to
mention pricked fingers.
In Europe, embroidered clothing was a sign of wealth and prosperity
for centuries. Primarily considered to be a woman's craft, many noble
and royal ladies spend otherwise empty hours embroidering coats,
shirts, tapestries, and linens with their waiting women. Even the
capable and brilliant future Queen Elizabeth I of England enjoyed the
craft, presenting her half-brother King Edward VI with a shirt she had
hand-embroidered to celebrate his coronation. Nearly two centuries
later, Madam de Pompadour, the powerful mistress of King Louis XV of
France, sat for a portrait posed with her embroidery frame.
52. EMBROIDERY
• Aari
• Banjara embroidery
• Banni or Heer Bharat (Gujarat)
• Chamba Rumal (Himachal Pradesh)
• Chikan or Chikankari (Uttar Pradesh)
• Gota (Jaipur, Rajasthan)
• Kantha (Bengal)
• Kasuti or Kasuthi (Karnataka)
• Kutch or Aribharat or
• Kutchi bharat/Sindhi stitch (Gujarat)
• Kashmiri Kashida (Kashmir)
• Mukesh
• Phool patti Ka Kaam (Uttar Pradesh)
• Phulkari (Punjab and Haryana)
• Rabari (Rajasthan and Gujarat)
• Shisha or Mirrorwork (Gujarat, Rajasthan)
• Toda embroidery
• Zardozi or Zari or kalabattu
Few traditional Indian Embroideries-
55. PRINTING
Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite
patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the color is bonded
with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is
related to dyeing but in dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly
covered with one color, whereas in printing one or more colors are
applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or
silkscreens can be used to place colors on the fabric. Colorants used in
printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the color from spreading by
capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.
56. PRINTING
Types of printing can be divided into –
Direct Print
Discharge Print
Resist Print
Pigment Print
Specialty Print
Other Printing Methods
Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth, or cloth made using this technique. Batik is made
either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting or by printing the resist with a
copper stamp called a cap The applied wax resists dyes and therefore allows the artisan to color selectively by
soaking the cloth in one color, removing the wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colors are desired.
Woodblock printing on textiles is the process of printing patterns on textiles, usually of linen, cotton or silk, by
means of incised wooden blocks. It is the earliest, simplest and slowest of all methods of textile printing. Block
printing by hand is a slow process. It is, however, capable of yielding highly artistic results, some of which are
unobtainable by any other method.
60. DRAPING
The oldest method of pattern making from the ancient time
period, is the draping method. Draping means to drape a fabric
around body to cover the body of the wearer.it is the second
method of garment construction. Draping is generally regarded
as a creative approach. In this method a piece of two
dimensional fabric is draped directly onto the dress form or
figure and made to fit on the dress form to achieve the desired
look or shape. The fabric may conform to the basic shape of the
form or be arranged artistically in folds for a specific design. The
muslin pattern is then transferred on the paper, and corrections
are made, if any . And then the same are converted into final
pattern.
Draping is the important factor of Haute Couture. Haute couture
design draped fabric to there ideas in reality. Origami is a best
example of 3 dimensional draping. This is an Japanese art of
paper folding but the new age designers using this method in
draping to create such beautiful folds. Many fashion designers
are working in this field.
61.
62.
63.
64. PATTERN ENGINEERING
Pattern designing is an extensive subject that courses principles of constructions and techniques in a wider
perspective rather than style details. The human body form is made up of complex geometric shapes and creates
problems in pattern construction.
Garment construction is the complex process of garment, from fabric to garment and from cutting to the final
finishes. It has a great importance in the fashion industry. There are two methods used by fashion industry-
• Flat Pattern Method
• Draping method
• Flat pattern is generally called as pattern engineering has a great importance in fashion industry. It is a method
where the entire pattern drafted on a flat surface from the series of measurement using rulers, curves and
straight scales. A pattern maker uses various tools such as measuring tools, marking tools, cutting tools, pins,
needles etc.it begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern. A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block
pattern (industrial production) is a custom fitted basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can
be developed. A simple fitted garment is made to the wearers measurements.
65. PATTERN GRADING
In flat pattern method basic pattern sets are foundation drafts of any garment. It represents the dimensions of a specific
form and figure. These are developed without any design feature, it is always traced for pattern making. The traced copy is
referred as working pattern. Pattern construction can be divided into two parts-
• Measuring Correctly
• Knowledge of technique with which they are applied.
Flat patterns are typically used by the mass production industry. These patterns are basically made in only one size. In order
to produce clothing that fits various body type or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of
resizing the initial pattern is called “Grading”.
Pattern developers take a middle sized pattern and grade it up
for larger size and grade it down for smaller size.
There are three different methods of pattern grading-
• Cut and Spread method
• Pattern Shifting
• Computer Grading
66. INDIVIDUAL FIGURE ANALYSIS
An awareness to anatomical differences among human helps explain why ready to wear garments can not possibly
fit all figure types perfectly.
The purpose of analyzing the figure is to determine if, and where, the figure deviates from standard average.
It would be impractical and expensive for manufacturers to try to satisfy the needs of those figures who fall outside
of the standard range.
93. CASE STUDY
Case Study-
Device a collection of saree as uniform for the air hostess of Indian Airlines.
She works in the sector of hospitality and she has nearly serves 300 to 350 people every day. she needs a formal
saree which reflect the beautiful culture of India, with a powerful impact. Her age group is between 25 to 30 years.
Observation-
Holds an important position
Meets and serves people.
Her age group.
Solutions-
Needs an outfit or uniform with powerful impact and cultural influence. Colors can be urban, professional, official
with the touch of Indian culture.
Fabric should be wrinkle resistance ,and stiff and crisp, which can hold the crease of pleats easily. It can't be too
much free flowing and light weighted.
Surface design technique - Block Printing, Embroidery, Screen Printing
94. COLOR SELECTION
Color is one of the most vital tool in the hands of designer. It is the most perceptible & prominent aspect of any
designer, hence is central to the success or failure of a design scheme. It is very important that a designer has the
full knowledge & understanding of this. Colors are the most important element of any design. When we search For
any Formal design we can found the neutrals, earthy and the urban colors. Generally we can see the bright colors
are not used in Formal designs but the variation in the colors are used. ex-tints and shades of any bright colors.
Here are the various color schemes which can be used in any formal saree’s design:-
Related color schemes
Achromatic color scheme
Monochromatic color scheme
Polychromatic color scheme
Analogous color scheme
Neutral color scheme
Assented Neutral color scheme
Complementary color schemes
95. FABRIC SELECTION
Formal wear is the dress which a person wears for his working hours. And
every one wants a outfit for his working hours which is comfortable and
stylish too. Fabric is the primary need of any garment. Fabric properties
are most important for any fabric ex- wrinkle resistance, stain resistance
and breathable etc. In a formal saree as uniform wearer always want a stiff
fabric which can hold the saree pleats in a elegant manner and don't
causes static charge with body.
As a fashion designer I will used these fabrics for design a saree as
uniform:-Silk Blends, Tussar silk, Khadi silk cotton, Muga silk, Pat silk,
Murshidabad silk, Bhagalpuri silk, Poly cotton, Taffeta, Manmade synthetic
silk .
Note :- Khadi fabrics are highly demanded fabric in these days by the
professionals. In the year 2016 air India choose Khadi Silk fabric for the
uniforms.
120. SHIBORI
Shibori is a Japanese shape resist method of tie and dye. Shibori is the
Japanese word for a variety of ways of embellishing textiles by shaping
cloth and securing it before dyeing.The word comes from the verb root
shiboru, "to wring, squeeze, press." Although shibori is used to
designate a particular group of resist-dyed textiles, the verb root of
the word emphasizes the action performed on cloth, the process of
manipulating fabric. Rather than treating cloth as a two-dimensional
surface, with shibori it is given a three-dimensional form by folding,
crumpling, stitching, plaiting, or plucking and twisting. Cloth shaped
by these methods is secured in a number of ways, such as binding and
knotting. It is the pliancy of a textile and its potential for creating a
multitude of shape-resisted designs that the Japanese concept of
shibori recognizes and explores. The shibori family of techniques
includes numerous resist processes practiced throughout the world.
127. GEOMETRY
Generally people connect the geometry with the field of mathematics and that is true that geometry is the
synonym for mathematical measurements like area, volume, length, height, width etc. but in the changing scenario
of fashion world geometry is a great factor of inspiration for designing .in fashion industry geometry could be seen
in silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, collars, hemlines, cutting lines, stylines surface ornamentations like prints,
embroidery, applique, fabric manipulations etc.
The various concepts of geometry in fashion are-
The Japanese Origami
The Tribal Art
Islamic Art and Architecture
Minimalist Fashion
Futuristic Influence
128. GEOMETRY
As a student of fashion designing I prepared a project with the inspiration of geometry. Here is a brief knowledge
about my subsequent pages which all are based upon the inspiration of geometry. When I studied about the
geometry I found that geometry has been evolved when the ancient civilizations are growing.
In the term geometry “Geo” means “Earth” and “Metry” means “Measurement”. Geometry is all about dimensions
& proportion. The greatest example of this is the human body form, because every part of human body is in a
prefixed proportion. This is also known as the golden section or golden ratio. We can easily found geometry in our
surroundings i.e. in nature as flora and fauna, architecture of buildings, garments, automobiles and many more….
These all are a group of many shapes and forms, which all could not imagine without geometry, because geometry
is all about the dimensions & proportion. The famous painting by Leonardo da Vinci shows the geometry in human
body is named as the “Vitruvius Man”. in the earliest civilization geometry could be seen in the architecture of
Rome, Pyramids of Egypt etc.
141. CASE STUDY
Create a collection for the Indian youth. As a fashion designer I
wanted to create a capsule collection for this challenging for this
challenging youth who need the change in garments and want
innovative and some creative ideas in their dressing.
152. CASE STUDY
The client for whom we need to
create a style holds an important
position in a company. The company
she works deals with making of
Adidas Shoes, She is the sales
manager of that company and needs
a formal wear to be designed for her.
She has nearly a meeting with 10
new officials everyday. She wants
official colors and no fancy areas in
her designing . Her age group is
between 30 to 35.
153. OBSERVATION
The client is the sales manager in her company. She has nearly a meeting with
10 new officials everyday. She needs a formal office wear which has powerful
impact on others. We use official urban colors for her dress. In her dress the
fabric finishes should be included like the fabric must have wrinkle resistance,
stain resistance and hydrophilic. The dress must has good quality control(stich
finishes).and she does not want any fancy designing element in her outfit.
154. COLOR SELECTION
Colors are the most important
element of any design. When we
search For any official design we can
found the neutrals, earthy and the
urban colors. Generally we can see
the bright colors are not used in
official designs but the variation in
the colors are used. ex-tints and
shades of any bright colors.
155. FABRIC SELECTION
Office wear is the dress which a
person wears for his working hours.
And every one wants a outfit for his
working hours which is comfortable
and stylish too. Fabric is the primary
need of any garment. Fabric
properties are most important for
any fabric ex- wrinkle resistance,
stain resistance and breathable etc.
Generally manmade fibers are used
for office wear fabric because most
of the characteristics of other
vegetable fibers are included in
these fibers or it can be inserted by
yarn formation process. As a fashion
designer I will used these fabrics for
office wear dress.
Giza Cotton Cotton Polyester
Poplin Gabardine
Rayon