FASHION IN 15th CENTURY

1. FASHION IN 15th CENTURY
 As Europe continued to grow more
prosperous, the urban middle classes, skilled
workers, began to wear more complex
clothes that followed, at a distance, the
fashions set by the elites.
 Fashion in 15th century Europe was
characterized by a series of extremes and
extravagances.

2. COSTUMES
MEN’s COSTUME
The basic costume of men in this period
consisted of a shirt, doublet, and hose, with
some sort of overgown (gown worn over
clothing).

3. TERMINOLOGY
CODPIECE
 A codpiece (from Middle English: cod, meaning "scrotum ") is a
covering flap or pouch that attaches to the front of the crotch of
men's trousers and usually accentuates the genital area. It was
held closed by string ties, buttons, or other methods.
 It was an important item of European clothing in the 15th and 16th
centuries, and is still worn in the modern era in performance
costumes for rock music and metal musicians and in the leather
subculture.

5. DOUBLET
 A doublet is a man's snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is fitted
and shaped to the man's body which was worn in Western
Europe from the MiddleAges through to the mid-17th century.
 The doublet was hip length or waist length and worn over the shirt
or drawers. Until the end of the 15th century the doublet was worn
under another layer of clothing such as a gown, mantle, or over
tunic.
 The term also refers to a formal jacket worn with highland dress, a
variation of which is called an Argyll jacket or Prince
Charlie jacket (or coatee).

8.  Originally it was a mere stitched and quilted
lining ("doubling"), worn under
a hauberk or cuirass(A hauberk is a shirt
of chainmail.) to prevent bruising and chafing.
Doublets were frequently opened to the
waistline in a deepV.
 The edges might be left free or laced across
the shirt front. If there was space left it might
be filled with a stomacher.
 A similar jacket, the sherwani, is worn today
in India.

9.  Doublets of the 14th and 15th centuries
were generally hip-length, sometimes,
shorter, worn over the shirt and hose, with
a houppelande or other form of overgown.
 From the late 14th century, doublets were
cut and padded to give the wearer an egg-
shaped or pigeon-breasted silhouette, a
fashion that gradually died out in favor of a
flatter natural fit.

10. Houppelande
 A houppelande or houpelande is an outer garment, with
a long, full body and flaring sleeves, that was worn by
both men and women in Europe in the late Medieval
period.
 Sometimes the houppelande was lined with fur.
 The garment was later worn by professional classes, and
has remained in Western civilization as the
familiar academic and legal robes of today.

12. Hose
 Hose are any of various styles of men's clothing for the legs
and lower body, worn from the Middle Ages through the
17th century, when the term fell out of use in favor
of breeches and stockings.
 Early wool hose were fitted to the leg, and 15th century hose
were often made particolored or mi-parti, having each leg a
different color, or even one leg made of two colors.
TYPES OF HOSES
 Trunk hose or round hose
 Slops or galligaskins
 Pluderhosen
 Venetians

14. cotehardie
 The cotehardie fitted smoothly from the shoulders to the
hips and then flared by means of inserted triangular
gores. It featured sleeves tight to the elbow with hanging
streamers or tippets.
 The tight fit was achieved with lacing or buttons.
 This style faded rapidly from fashion in favor of the
houppelande, a full robe with a high collar and wide
sleeves that had become fashionable around 1380 and
remained so to mid-century

15. HUKEThe huke were worn by upper-class men.like the
cote and surcote, the huke originated as a
covering for armor. It was shaped much like a
tabard, being closed over the shoulders and
open at the sides. In short versions it had a slit
at the front for ease when riding. In longer
versions for walking there was no slit. Worn
unbelted , belted , or with the belt passed
across the front while the back hung free,
hukes were more fashionable in the first half of
the century than the second.

16. DECORATIONS
 Wealthy men's shirts were often decorated
with embroidery or applied braid.
 Toward the end of the period, shirts began to be full
through the body and sleeves with wide, low
necklines; the sleeves were pulled through the
slashings or piecing of the doublet sleeves to make
puffs, especially at the elbow and the back of the arm.
 Sleeves were generally full, even puffy, and when
worn with a large chaperon, the look was extremely
stylish, but very top-heavy.

18. Gowns and outerwear
 It was essentially a gown with fullness falling
from the shoulders in organ pleats and very
full sleeves often reaching to the floor with, at
the start of the century, a high collar.
 The length of the garment shortened from
around the ankle to above the knee over this
period.The floor-length sleeves were later
wrist-length but very full, forming a bag or
sack sleeve, or were worn off the arm,
hanging ornamentally behind.

20. Headgear
 HATS of various styles—tall-crowned with small brims or
no brims at all, or low-crowned with wider brims pulled
to a point in front—began to compete with the draped
chaperon, especially in Italy.
 CHAPERON :Early in the century, the hood remained a
common component of dress for all classes, although it
was frequently worn around the neck as a cowl or twisted
into the fantastical shapes of the chaperon.

22. HAIR was worn in a style that was frequently
Described by costume historians as
the BOWL CAP.
After mid century the shortness of the cut
modified somewhat to be replaced after
1465 by longer style similar to what in
modern terminology is termed as pageboy
cut

24. FOOTWEAR
Lower class men wore knee or mid calf
length stockings. Foot coverings were
pointed, some with exaggerated or piked
toes , the length waxing and waning over
the century. For the first ten years, while
pointed in shape ,they were relatively
short, after mid century piked poulaines
were revived, persisting in use until about
1480 when shoe forms became more
rounded.

25.  PATTENS were raised wooden platforms (
or sometimes leather for the upper class)
that fastened over the shoe for protection
during bad weather.

27. ACCESSORIES
 Accessories included jeweled collars
,daggers,Pouches,purses ,decorative
belts and gloves .
 In the second part of the century belt
became less essential part of the
costumes.

29. THANK
YOU