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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg

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This is an electronic version of the print textbook. Due to electronic rights restrictions, some third party content may be suppressed. Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. The publisher reserves the right to remove content from this title at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. For valuable information on pricing, previous editions, changes to current editions, and alternate formats, please visit www.cengage.com/highered to search by ISBN#, author, title, or keyword for materials in your areas of interest.
Arlene Alpert Margrit Altenburg Diane Carol Bailey Letha Barnes Lisha Barnes Deborah Beatty Mary Brunetti Jane Crawford Robert Cromeans Alyssa Evirs Catherine Frangie John Halal Colleen Hennessey Mary Beth Janssen Nancy King Mark Lees Toni Love Vivienne Mackinder Carey Nash Ruth Roche Teresa Sammarco Sue Sansom Douglas Schoon Sue Ellen Schultes Frank Shipman Jeryl Spear Au s t ra l ia Canada Mex ico Singapore Spain United K i ngdom United S t a t e s
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology Director of Content and Media Production: Wendy A. Troeger Content Project Manager: Nina Tucciarelli Art Director: Joy Kocsis Composition: Graphic World Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by an means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, Web distribution, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. For permission to use material from this text or product, submit a request online at http://www.thomsonrights.com Any additional questions about permissions can be submitted by e-mail to thomsonrights@thomson.com NOTICE TO THE READER President, Milady: Dawn Gerrain Director of Editorial: John Fedor Managing Editor: Robert Serenka Product Manager: Jessica Burns Editorial Assistant: Michael Spring COPYRIGHT © 2008 THOMSON DELMAR LEARNING., a part of The Thomson Corporation. Thomson, the Star logo, and Delmar Learning are trademarks used herein under license. Printed in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 XXX 11 10 09 08 07 For more information contact Thomson Delmar Learning, 5 Maxwell Drive CLIFTON PARK, NY 12065-2919 at http://www.milady.com Director of Marketing: Wendy Mapstone Director of Industry Relations Milady and Salon Training International: Sandra Bruce Marketing Coordinator: Nicole Riggi Text Design: Studio Montage Library of Congress Cataloging-in- Publication Data Frangie, Catherine M. Milady’s standard cosmetology / Catherine M. Frangie. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-4180-4935-5 ISBN-10: 1-4180-4935-2 1. Beauty culture. I. Title. II. Title: Standard cosmetology. III. Title: Cosmetology. TT957.M5518 2007 646.7’2076--dc22 2006033202 Publisher does not warrant or guarantee any of the products described herein or perform any independent analysis in connection with any of the product information contained herein. Publisher does not assume, and expressly disclaims, any obligation to obtain and include information other than that provided to it by the manufacturer. The reader is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precautions that might be indicated by the activities herein and to avoid all potential hazards. By following the instructions contained herein, the reader willingly assumes all risks in connection with such instructions. The publisher makes no representation or warranties of any kind, including but not limited to, the warranties of fi tness for particular purpose or merchantability, nor are any such representations implied with respect to the material set forth herein, and the publisher takes no responsibility with respect to such material. The publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or part, from the readers’ use of, or reliance upon, this material.
PA R T 4 S K I N C A R E 20 SKIN DISEASES & DISORDERS ........................ 530 21 HAIR REMOVAL ................................................. 546 22 FACIALS ............................................................... 561 23 FACIAL MAKEUP ............................................... 603 PA R T 5 N A I L C A R E 24 NAIL DISEASES & DISORDERS ........................ 642 25 MANICURING ..................................................... 655 26 PEDICURING ..................................................... 697 27 NAIL TIPS, WRAPS, & NO-LIGHT GELS ......... 723 28 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILS ................. 748 29 UV GELS ............................................................... 774 PA R T 6 B U S I N E S S S K I L L S 30 SEEKING EMPLOYMENT .................................. 790 31 ON THE JOB ........................................................ 819 32 THE SALON BUSINESS ...................................... 842 IN CLOSING ........................................................ 858 APPENDIX A RESOURCES ................................................................ 861 APPENDIX B ASSOCIATIONS .......................................................... 866 GLOSSARY/INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868 CONTENTS IN BRIEF PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES ............ 2 2 LIFE SKILLS ........................................................... 12 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE .......................... 25 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS .................. 33 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES ............................................................ 54 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY ...... 84 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH ..................... 119 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH ..................... 132 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP ............ 139 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY ................................... 164 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY ................................. 179 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN ....................... 194 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, AND CONDITIONING ................................................ 217 14 HAIRCUTTING .................................................. 241 15 HAIRSTYLING .................................................... 301 16 BRAIDING & BRAID EXTENSIONS ................. 365 17 WIGS & HAIR ENHANCEMENTS .................... 395 18 CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES ..................... 422 19 HAIRCOLORING ................................................ 477 iii
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The Nervous System .......................................................... 99 The Circulatory System .................................................... 103 The Endocrine System ..................................................... 108 The Digestive System ....................................................... 108 The Excretory System ....................................................... 108 The Respiratory System .................................................... 109 The Integumentary System .............................................. 109 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH Anatomy of the Skin ........................................................ 121 Maintaining Skin Health .................................................. 128 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH The Natural Nail .............................................................. 134 Nail Anatomy ................................................................... 134 Nail Growth ..................................................................... 136 Know Your Nails .............................................................. 137 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP Structure of the Hair ........................................................ 142 Chemical Composition of Hair ........................................ 144 Hair Analysis .................................................................... 147 Hair Growth .................................................................... 150 Hair Loss .......................................................................... 153 Disorders of the Hair ........................................................ 156 Disorders of the Scalp....................................................... 158 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY Chemistry ........................................................................ 166 Matter .............................................................................. 166 Potential Hydrogen (pH) ................................................. 172 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY Electricity ......................................................................... 181 Electrical Equipment Safety .............................................. 183 Electrotherapy .................................................................. 184 Other Electrical Equipment ............................................. 187 Light Therapy .................................................................. 187 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN Philosophy of Design ....................................................... 196 Elements of Hair Design .................................................. 197 Principles of Hair Design ................................................. 202 Infl uence of Hair Type on Hairstyle ................................. 205 Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure .......................................................... 207 Designing for Men ........................................................... 214 Client Consultation: Sample Dialogue ............................. 214 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, & CONDITIONING Understanding Shampoo .................................................. 219 Conditioners .................................................................... 224 Brushing the Hair ............................................................ 227 Scalp Massage ................................................................... 228 Shampoo Procedures ........................................................ 231 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE The Industry Standard ...................................................... xiii Features of This Edition .....................................................xiv New Organization and Chapters .........................................xv Elements of This Edition ...................................................xvii Other Elements ..................................................................xix Extensive Learning/Teaching Package .................................xxi CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS .................................. xxvi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................xxxix Reviewers ....................................................................... xxxix Photography Credits .......................................................xlviii PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Brief History of Cosmetology ............................................... 4 Career Paths for a Cosmetologist .......................................... 9 A Bright Future .................................................................. 11 2 LIFE SKILLS The Psychology of Success .................................................. 15 Managing Your Career ........................................................ 18 Goal Setting ....................................................................... 18 Time Management ............................................................. 19 Study Skills ........................................................................ 20 Ethics ................................................................................. 21 Personality Development and Attitude ............................... 22 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE Beauty and Wellness ........................................................... 27 Looking Good .................................................................... 28 Your Physical Presentation .................................................. 29 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS Human Relations ............................................................... 35 Communication Basics ....................................................... 37 The Client Consultation .................................................... 40 Special Issues in Communication ....................................... 45 In-Salon Communication ................................................... 48 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES Regulation .......................................................................... 56 Principles of Infection ........................................................ 60 Principles of Prevention ...................................................... 66 Disinfection Procedures ...................................................... 71 Universal Precautions ......................................................... 79 The Professional Salon Image ............................................. 80 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY Why Study Anatomy? ........................................................ 87 Cells ................................................................................... 87 Tissues................................................................................ 89 Organs and Body Systems .................................................. 89 The Skeletal System............................................................ 90 The Muscular System ......................................................... 93 v
14 HAIRCUTTING Basic Principles of Haircutting ......................................... 243 Client Consultation.......................................................... 249 Tools, Body Positions, and Safety ..................................... 252 Basic Haircuts .................................................................. 258 Other Cutting Techniques ................................................ 281 Clippers and Trimmers ..................................................... 292 15 HAIRSTYLING Client Consultation.......................................................... 303 Wet Hairstyling Basics ...................................................... 304 Finger Waving .................................................................. 304 Pin Curls .......................................................................... 310 Roller Curls ...................................................................... 317 Comb-Out Techniques ..................................................... 321 Hair Wrapping ................................................................. 323 Blow-Dry Styling ............................................................. 325 Thermal Hairstyling ......................................................... 336 Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) ..................... 347 Styling Long Hair ............................................................. 355 16 BRAIDING & BRAID EXTENSIONS Client Consultation.......................................................... 368 Understanding the Basics ................................................. 370 Braiding the Hair ............................................................. 374 17 WIGS & HAIR ENHANCEMENTS The Consultation ............................................................. 397 Wigs ................................................................................. 400 Hairpieces ........................................................................ 412 Hair Extensions ................................................................ 416 18 CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES The Structure of Hair ....................................................... 424 The Client Consultation .................................................. 427 Permanent Waving ........................................................... 431 Chemical Hair Relaxers .................................................... 458 Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) ......................... 470 19 HAIRCOLORING Why People Color Their Hair .......................................... 479 Hair Facts ......................................................................... 480 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone ......................... 481 Types of Haircolor ............................................................ 485 Consultation .................................................................... 490 Selecting Haircolor ........................................................... 493 Haircolor Applications ..................................................... 496 Using Lighteners .............................................................. 505 Using Toners .................................................................... 510 Special Effects Haircoloring .............................................. 513 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective Solutions ....... 518 Haircoloring Safety Precautions ........................................ 525 PA R T 4 S K I N C A R E 20 SKIN DISEASES & DISORDERS Aging of the Skin ............................................................. 532 Disorders of the Skin ........................................................ 534 Avoiding Skin Problems ................................................... 541 21 HAIR REMOVAL Client Consultation.......................................................... 549 Permanent Hair Removal ................................................. 551 Methods of Temporary Hair Removal .............................. 552 22 FACIALS Skin Analysis and Consultation ........................................ 563 Determining Skin Type .................................................... 567 Skin Care Products ........................................................... 570 Client Consultation.......................................................... 574 Facial Massage .................................................................. 577 Electrotherapy and Light Therapy .................................... 584 Facial Treatments .............................................................. 587 Aromatherapy .................................................................. 599 23 FACIAL MAKEUP Cosmetics for Facial Makeup ............................................ 605 Makeup Color Theory ...................................................... 613 Basic Makeup Application ................................................ 618 Special-Occasion Makeup ................................................ 624 Corrective Makeup ........................................................... 625 Artifi cial Eyelashes ............................................................ 633 Safety Precautions ............................................................ 637 PA R T 5 N A I L C A R E 24 NAIL DISEASES & DISORDERS Nail Disorders .................................................................. 644 Nail Diseases .................................................................... 649 25 MANICURING Nail Technology Supplies ................................................. 657 Choosing a Nail Shape ..................................................... 668 Basic Manicure ................................................................. 669 French and American Manicures ...................................... 680 Conditioning Oil Manicure ............................................. 682 Performing a Man’s Manicure ........................................... 682 Paraffi n Wax Treatment .................................................... 686 Hand and Arm Massage ................................................... 689 Spa Manicure ................................................................... 692 Aromatherapy .................................................................. 692 26 PEDICURING Pedicure Tools .................................................................. 699 Performing Pedicures ........................................................ 703 Foot Massage .................................................................... 705 Beyond the Basic Pedicure ................................................ 713 vi
27 NAIL TIPS, WRAPS, & NO-LIGHT GELS Nail Tips .......................................................................... 725 Nail Wraps ....................................................................... 726 No-Light Gels .................................................................. 744 28 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILS “Liquid and Powder” Nail Enhancements ........................ 750 Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements Using Forms .. 752 Maintenance and Removal of Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements .......................................................... 767 Odorless Acrylic (Methacrylate) Products ......................... 767 Colored Acrylic (Methacrylate) Powders ........................... 772 29 UV GELS Application of UV Gel Nail Enhancements ...................... 777 Maintenance and Removal of UV Gel Nail Enhancements .................................................................. 783 PA R T 6 B U S I N E S S S K I L L S 30 SEEKING EMPLOYMENT Preparing for Licensure..................................................... 792 Preparing for Employment ............................................... 796 Doing It Right ................................................................. 817 31 ON THE JOB Moving from School to Work ........................................... 821 Out in the Real World ...................................................... 821 vii Managing Your Money ..................................................... 827 Discover the Selling You ................................................... 831 On Your Way ................................................................... 837 32 THE SALON BUSINESS Going into Business for Yourself ....................................... 841 Operating a Successful Salon ............................................ 848 Selling in the Salon ........................................................... 856 IN CLOSING Use Your Time Wisely ...................................................... 858 Form Good Habits ........................................................... 858 Seek Mentors.................................................................... 858 Explore the Possibilities .................................................... 858 Learn the Business ............................................................ 859 Continue to Learn ............................................................ 859 APPENDIX A RESOURCES ................................................................ 861 APPENDIX B ASSOCIATIONS ........................................................... 866 GLOSSARY/INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868
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PROCEDURES ix PROCEDURE 5-1 DISINFECTING NONELECTRICAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ........................................... 72 PROCEDURE 5-2 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AFTER EACH CLIENT ................................................................ 74 PROCEDURE 5-3 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AT THE END OF DAY ................................................................. 75 PROCEDURE 5-4 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AT LEAST ONCE EACH WEEK ................................................. 76 PROCEDURE 5-5 PROCEDURE FOR WASHING HANDS....................................................................................... 78 PROCEDURE 13-1 SCALP MASSAGE ......................................................................................................................... 229 PROCEDURE 13-2 BASIC SHAMPOO ........................................................................................................................ 232 PROCEDURE 13-3 GENERAL HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENTS .......................................................................... 237 PROCEDURE 14-1 BLUNT HAIRCUT ........................................................................................................................ 261 PROCEDURE 14-2 GRADUATED HAIRCUT ............................................................................................................ 268 PROCEDURE 14-3 UNIFORM-LAYERED HAIRCUT ............................................................................................... 274 PROCEDURE 14-4 LONG-LAYERED HAIRCUT ...................................................................................................... 278 PROCEDURE 14-5 CLIPPER CUT .............................................................................................................................. 295 PROCEDURE 15-1 PREPARING THE HAIR FOR WET STYLING .......................................................................... 306 PROCEDURE 15-2 HORIZONTAL FINGER WAVING ............................................................................................. 307 PROCEDURE 15-3 CARVED OR SCULPTED CURLS ............................................................................................... 314 PROCEDURE 15-4 WET SET WITH ROLLERS ......................................................................................................... 319 PROCEDURE 15-5 HAIR WRAPPING ......................................................................................................................... 324 PROCEDURE 15-6 BLOW-DRYING SHORT, LAYERED, CURLY HAIR TO PRODUCE SMOOTH AND FULL FINISH ...................................................................................................................... 329 PROCEDURE 15-7 BLOW-DRY SHORT, CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN .............................. 331 PROCEDURE 15-8 DIFFUSE LONG, CURLY OR EXTREMELY-CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN ...................................................................................................................................... 332 PROCEDURE 15-9 BLOW-DRY STRAIGHT OR WAVY HAIR WITH MAXIMUM VOLUME ............................. 333 PROCEDURE 15-10 BLOW-DRY BLUNT OR LONG LAYERED, STRAIGHT TO WAVY HAIR INTO A STRAIGHT STYLE ......................................................................................................... 334 PROCEDURE 15-11 THERMAL WAVING .................................................................................................................... 338 PROCEDURE 15-12 CURLING SHORT HAIR ............................................................................................................ 342 PROCEDURE 15-13 CURLING MEDIUM-LENGTH HAIR ...................................................................................... 343 PROCEDURE 15-14 CURLING HAIR (USING TWO LOOPS OR “FIGURE 8”) ...................................................... 344 PROCEDURE 15-15 SOFT PRESSING FOR NORMAL CURLY HAIR ....................................................................... 351 PROCEDURE 15-16 CHIGNON ................................................................................................................................... 357 PROCEDURE 15-17 BASIC FRENCH TWIST ............................................................................................................. 359 PROCEDURE 15-18 CLASSIC FRENCH TWIST ......................................................................................................... 360 PROCEDURE 16-1 PREPARING TEXTURED HAIR FOR BRAIDING .................................................................... 376 PROCEDURE 16-2 INVISIBLE BRAID ....................................................................................................................... 378 PROCEDURE 16-3 ROPE BRAID ................................................................................................................................ 380
x PROCEDURE 16-4 FISHTAIL BRAID ......................................................................................................................... 382 PROCEDURE 16-5 SINGLE BRAIDS WITHOUT EXTENSIONS ............................................................................ 384 PROCEDURE 16-6 SINGLE BRAIDS WITH EXTENSIONS .................................................................................... 386 PROCEDURE 16-7 BASIC CORNROWS .................................................................................................................... 388 PROCEDURE 16-8 CORNROWS WITH EXTENSIONS .......................................................................................... 390 PROCEDURE 17-1 TAKING WIG MEASUREMENTS ............................................................................................... 405 PROCEDURE 17-2 PUTTING ON THE WIG............................................................................................................ 407 PROCEDURE 18-1 BASIC PERM ................................................................................................................................. 446 PROCEDURE 18-2 CURVATURE PERM ..................................................................................................................... 450 PROCEDURE 18-3 BRICKLAY PERM .......................................................................................................................... 452 PROCEDURE 18-4 WEAVE TECHNIQUE ................................................................................................................. 454 PROCEDURE 18-5 DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE .......................................................................... 455 PROCEDURE 18-6 SPIRAL PERM TECHNIQUE ...................................................................................................... 456 PROCEDURE 18-7 APPLYING VIRGIN HYDROXIDE RELAXERS .......................................................................... 464 PROCEDURE 18-8 HYDROXIDE RELAXER RETOUCH .......................................................................................... 467 PROCEDURE 18-9 APPLYING THIO RELAXER ........................................................................................................ 469 PROCEDURE 18-10 CURL RE-FORMING (SOFT CURL PERM) .............................................................................. 471 PROCEDURE 19-1 PERFORMING A PATCH TEST .................................................................................................. 495 PROCEDURE 19-2 PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST ................................................................................................... 497 PROCEDURE 19-3 TEMPORARY HAIRCOLOR APPLICATION ............................................................................ 498 PROCEDURE 19-4 SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR APPLICATION .................................................................. 500 PROCEDURE 19-5 SINGLE-PROCESS COLOR FOR VIRGIN HAIR ..................................................................... 502 PROCEDURE 19-6 PERMANENT SINGLE-PROCESS RE-TOUCH WITH A GLAZE .......................................... 504 PROCEDURE 19-7 LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR .................................................................................................... 508 PROCEDURE 19-8 TONER APPLICATION ............................................................................................................... 511 PROCEDURE 19-9 SPECIAL-EFFECTS HAIRCOLORING WITH FOIL, FULL HEAD .......................................... 515 PROCEDURE 21-1 TWEEZING EYEBROWS ............................................................................................................. 553 PROCEDURE 21-2 HOT WAXING EYEBROWS ........................................................................................................ 556 PROCEDURE 21-3 BODY WAXING ............................................................................................................................ 558 PROCEDURE 22-1 BASIC FACIAL ............................................................................................................................... 590 PROCEDURE 22-2 FACIAL FOR DRY SKIN ............................................................................................................... 594 PROCEDURE 22-3 FACIAL FOR OILY SKIN WITH OPEN COMEDONES (BLACKHEADS) .............................. 596 PROCEDURE 22-4 FACIAL FOR ACNE-PRONE AND PROBLEM SKIN ................................................................ 598 PROCEDURE 23-1 PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP APPLICATION ............................................................................... 620 PROCEDURE 23-2 BAND LASH APPLICATION ....................................................................................................... 635 PROCEDURE 25-1 BASIC TABLE SETUP ................................................................................................................... 667 PROCEDURE 25-2 HANDLING BLOOD DURING A MANICURE ........................................................................ 670
xi PROCEDURE 25-3 PRE-SERVICE SANITATION ....................................................................................................... 672 PROCEDURE 25-4 PERFORMING A BASIC MANICURE ........................................................................................ 674 PROCEDURE 25-5 POST-SERVICE PROCEDURES .................................................................................................. 679 PROCEDURE 25-6 PERFORMING FRENCH AND AMERICAN MANICURES ..................................................... 681 PROCEDURE 25-7 PERFORMING A CONDITIONING OIL MANICURE ............................................................ 683 PROCEDURE 25-8 PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENT BEFORE MANICURE ............................................................. 687 PROCEDURE 25-9 PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENT DURING MANICURE ............................................................ 688 PROCEDURE 25-10 HAND MASSAGE ......................................................................................................................... 690 PROCEDURE 25-11 ARM MASSAGE ............................................................................................................................ 691 PROCEDURE 26-1 PRE-SERVICE FOR PEDICURE .................................................................................................. 704 PROCEDURE 26-2 PERFORMING A BASIC PEDICURE ......................................................................................... 706 PROCEDURE 26-3 POST-SERVICE PROCEDURES .................................................................................................. 709 PROCEDURE 26-4 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS ...................................................................................................... 710 PROCEDURE 26-5 THE FULL-SERVICE PEDICURE .............................................................................................. 717 PROCEDURE 27-1 NAIL TIP APPLICATION PRE-SERVICE .................................................................................... 727 PROCEDURE 27-2 NAIL TIP APPLICATION ............................................................................................................ 728 PROCEDURE 27-3 NAIL TIP APPLICATION POST-SERVICE ................................................................................. 731 PROCEDURE 27-4 NAIL TIP REMOVAL .................................................................................................................... 732 PROCEDURE 27-5 NAIL WRAP PRE-SERVICE .......................................................................................................... 734 PROCEDURE 27-6 NAIL WRAP APPLICATION ........................................................................................................ 736 PROCEDURE 27-7 NAIL WRAP POST-SERVICE ....................................................................................................... 739 PROCEDURE 27-8 TWO-WEEK FABRIC WRAP MAINTENANCE ......................................................................... 740 PROCEDURE 27-9 FOUR-WEEK FABRIC WRAP MAINTENANCE ....................................................................... 741 PROCEDURE 27-10 FABRIC WRAP REMOVAL .......................................................................................................... 743 PROCEDURE 27-11 NO-LIGHT GEL APPLICATION ................................................................................................ 745 PROCEDURE 28-1 APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS ............................................................................................................................. 757 PROCEDURE 28-2 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS .................................................................................................................. 763 PROCEDURE 28-3 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE .................................. 768 PROCEDURE 28-4 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT CRACK REPAIR .............................. 770 PROCEDURE 28-5 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT REMOVAL ....................................... 771 PROCEDURE 29-1 LIGHT-CURED GEL APPLICATION .......................................................................................... 779 PROCEDURE 29-2 APPLICATION OF UV GEL OVER FORMS .............................................................................. 784
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P R E F A C E M I L A DY ’ S S TA N DA R D C O S M E TO L O G Y Congratulations! You are about to start on a journey that can take you in many directions and holds the potential to make you a confident, successful professional in cosmetology. As a cosmetologist, you will become a trusted professional, the person your clients rely on to provide them with ongoing service, enabling them to look and feel their best. You will become as personally involved in your clients’ lives as their physicians or dentists are, and with study and practice, you can be as much in demand as a well-regarded medical provider. Milady’s Standard Textbook of Cosmetology was the creation of Nicholas F. Cimaglia, founder of Milady Publishing Company, which he established 80 years ago, in 1927. He began his career in the beauty business as a salesman for a beauty supply distributor, selling his book, the New York State Barbering Exam, along with hair tonics and razors, door to door to barber shops in New York City. In 1938, Nick Cimaglia published the fi rst edition of Milady’s Standard Textbook of Cosmetology, and it has since been the textbook of choice for cosmetology education, undergoing many revisions. Throughout its lifetime, it has consistently been the most-used cosmetology textbook in the world. With the many changes in the fi eld of cosmetology, new editions of the text are needed periodically, and Milady is committed to making it the best cosmetology educational tool available. T H E I N D U S T R Y S TANDA R D This edition of Milady’s Standard Cosmetology provides you with the information you will need to pass the licensure exams as well as the most contemporary techniques to ensure your success once you are on the job. Before beginning this revision, Milady surveyed hundreds of educators and professionals, held focus groups, and received in-depth comments from dozens of reviewers to learn what needed to be changed, added, or deleted. Next we consulted with educational experts to learn the best way to present the material, so that all types of learners could understand it and remember it. Then we went to several experts in various cosmetology-related fields to write or revise the chapters. Finally, we sent the finished manuscripts to yet more subject experts to ensure the accuracy and thoroughness of the material. What you hold in your hands is the result. Milady’s Standard Cosmetology contains new information on many subjects, including sanitation and infection control, and haircoloring. As a part of your cosmetology education, this book will serve as a valuable guide, and you’ll refer to it again and again throughout your career. xiii
xiv F E AT U R E S O F T H I S E D I T I O N In response to the suggestions of the cosmetology educators and professionals who reviewed the Milady’s Standard Cosmetology and to those submitted by the students who use this text, this edition includes many new chapters. We’ve aligned our core textbooks so that information appearing in any book that is also in another text, whether it be cosmetology, nail technology, or esthetics, now matches from one book to another. Milady has also dramatically changed the design of the textbook to refl ect the innovative and unique energy and artistry found in a career within the beauty business and we’ve included new photography and illustrations to bring you the most valuable, effective educational material available. To get the most out of the time you will spend studying, take a few minutes fi rst to learn about the textbook and how to use it before you begin. Use the Preface information that follows as a guide to lead you through the special features the textbook provides to help you learn, understand, and retain the important information within. The Nervous System .......................................................... 99 The Circulatory System .................................................... 103 The Endocrine System ..................................................... 108 The Digestive System ....................................................... 108 The Excretory System ....................................................... 108 The Respiratory System .................................................... 109 The Integumentary System .............................................. 109 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH Anatomy of the Skin ........................................................ 121 Maintaining Skin Health .................................................. 128 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH The Natural Nail .............................................................. 134 Nail Anatomy ................................................................... 134 Nail Growth ..................................................................... 136 Know Your Nails .............................................................. 137 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP Structure of the Hair ........................................................ 142 Chemical Composition of Hair ........................................ 144 Hair Analysis .................................................................... 147 Hair Growth .................................................................... 150 Hair Loss .......................................................................... 153 Disorders of the Hair ........................................................ 156 Disorders of the Scalp....................................................... 158 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY Chemistry ........................................................................ 166 Matter .............................................................................. 166 Potential Hydrogen (pH) ................................................. 172 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY Electricity ......................................................................... 181 Electrical Equipment Safety .............................................. 183 Electrotherapy .................................................................. 184 Other Electrical Equipment ............................................. 187 Light Therapy .................................................................. 187 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN Philosophy of Design ....................................................... 196 Elements of Hair Design .................................................. 197 Principles of Hair Design ................................................. 202 Infl uence of Hair Type on Hairstyle ................................. 205 Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure .......................................................... 207 Designing for Men ........................................................... 214 Client Consultation: Sample Dialogue ............................. 214 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, & CONDITIONING Understanding Shampoo .................................................. 219 Conditioners .................................................................... 224 Brushing the Hair ............................................................ 227 Scalp Massage ................................................................... 228 Shampoo Procedures ........................................................ 231 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE The Industry Standard ...................................................... xiii Features of This Edition .....................................................xiv New Organization and Chapters .........................................xv Elements of This Edition ...................................................xvii Other Elements ..................................................................xix Extensive Learning/Teaching Package .................................xxi CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS .................................. xxvi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................xxxix Reviewers ....................................................................... xxxix Photography Credits .......................................................xlviii PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Brief History of Cosmetology ............................................... 4 Career Paths for a Cosmetologist .......................................... 9 A Bright Future .................................................................. 11 2 LIFE SKILLS The Psychology of Success .................................................. 15 Managing Your Career ........................................................ 18 Goal Setting ....................................................................... 18 Time Management ............................................................. 19 Study Skills ........................................................................ 20 Ethics ................................................................................. 21 Personality Development and Attitude ............................... 22 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE Beauty and Wellness ........................................................... 27 Looking Good .................................................................... 28 Your Physical Presentation .................................................. 29 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS Human Relations ............................................................... 35 Communication Basics ....................................................... 37 The Client Consultation .................................................... 40 Special Issues in Communication ....................................... 45 In-Salon Communication ................................................... 48 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES Regulation .......................................................................... 56 Principles of Infection ........................................................ 60 Principles of Prevention ...................................................... 66 Disinfection Procedures ...................................................... 71 Universal Precautions ......................................................... 79 The Professional Salon Image ............................................. 80 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY Why Study Anatomy? ........................................................ 87 Cells ................................................................................... 87 Tissues................................................................................ 89 Organs and Body Systems .................................................. 89 The Skeletal System............................................................ 90 The Muscular System ......................................................... 93 v
xv N E W O R GA N I Z AT I O N A N D C H A P T E R S By learning and using the tools in this text along with your teachers’ instruction, you will develop the abilities you need to build a loyal and satisfied clientele. To help you locate information more easily, the chapters are grouped in six main parts. Part 1: Orientation consists of four chapters that cover the field of cosmetology and the personal skills you will need to become successful. The first chapter, “History & Opportunities,” outlines where cosmetology came from and where it can take you. In “Life Skills,” the second chapter, the ability to set goals and maintain a good attitude are emphasized along with the psychology of success. “Your Professional Image” stresses the importance of inward beauty and health as well as outward appearance, and “Communicat-ing for Success” describes the important process of building client relationships based on trust and effective communication. Part 2: General Sciences includes important information you need to know to keep yourself and your clients safe and healthy. “Infection Control: Principles & Practice” offers the most current, vital facts about hepatitis, HIV, and other infectious viruses and bacteria and tells how to prevent their spread in the salon. “General Anatomy and Physiology,” “Skin Structure & Growth,” “Nail Structure & Growth,” “Properties of the Hair & Scalp,” “Basics of Chemistry,” and “Basics of Electricity” provide essential information that will affect how you work with clients, service products, and tools. Part 3: Hair Care offers information on every aspect of hair. “Principles of Hair Design” explores the ways hair can be sculpted to enhance a client’s facial shape. The foundation on which almost every hair service is built is covered in “Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning,” followed by a totally updated “Haircutting” chapter, complete with step-by- step procedures for core cuts with fantastic new glamour shots to show the finished look. Step-by-step procedures are also found in “Hairstyling,” along with information on new tools and techniques. Another revised chapter, “Braiding & Braid Extensions,” is followed by “Wigs & Hair Enhancements,” and both “Chemical Texture Services” and “Haircoloring” reflect the most recent advances in these areas. chapter outline Brief History of Cosmetology Career Paths for a Cosmetologist A Bright Future ?Tinea frequently barbae (encountered Barber’s Itch) is infection the most resulting Did You Know redness and infl ammation, the medical term is “seborrheic dermatitis’’ from hair services that affects the coarse (seb-oh-REE-ik dur-muh-TY-t is). Occasionally, seborrheic dermatitis hairs in the mustache and beard area, or can also be found in the eyebrows or beard. A client with this condition around the neck and scalp, usually in men (see chapter 5 for more details). should be referred to a physician. FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA) Tinea (TIN-ee-uh) is the medical term for ringworm. It is characterized by itching, scales, and, sometimes, painful circular lesions. Several such patches may be present at one time. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism and not a parasite, as the old-fashioned term “ringworm’’ seems to suggest. All forms of tinea are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another. Infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease. Bathtubs, swimming pools, and unsanitary personal articles are also sources of transmission. Practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment. Tinea capitis (KAP-ih-tis) is another type of fungal infection characterized by red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles (Figure 9-24). The patches spread and the hair becomes brittle. Hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from the enlarged open follicle. Tinea favosa (fah-VOH-suh) is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on the scalp called scutula (SKUCH-ul-uh), which have a distinctive odor. Scars from tinea favosa are bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny. PARASITIC INFECTIONS Scabies is a highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a “mite’’ that burrows under the skin. Vesicles (blisters) and pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this parasite. Excessive itching results in scratching the infected areas and makes the condition worse. Practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures are very important to prevent the spread of this disease. A client with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment. Pe diculosis capitis (puh-dik-yuh-LOH-sis KAP-ih-tis) is the infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice (Figures 9-25 and 9-26). As these parasites feed on the scalp, itching occurs and the scratching that usually results can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles. You can distinguish them from dandruff fl akes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass. Properly practicing state board—-approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of this disease. Several nonprescription medications are available. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician or pharmacist. 159 PROCEDURE15-8 PART 2 — GENERAL SCIENCES Chapter 9 — Properties of the Hair and Scalp Figure 9–24 Tinea capitis. Figure 9–25 Head lice. Figure 9–26 Nits (lice eggs). 9 DIFFUSE LONG, CURLY OR EXTREMELY-CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN 1. Apply product product. after towel-Apply a blotting styling hair. product or silicone 2. Work one section. For easier control, section the hair and work on one particular section at a time. 3. Use diffuser. Attach the diffuser to the blow-dryer and diffuse the hair by letting the hair sit on top of the diffuser and pulsing the dryer toward the scalp and then away, repeating until the section is dry (Figure 15-99). Alternatively, gently run the section being dried through your fingers and bring the diffuser toward your hand (Figure 15-100). Figure 15–99 Using a diffuser. Figure 15–100 Another way to use a diffuser. 15
xvi CAUTION Do not massage a client who has high blood pressure, a heart condition, or has had a stroke. Massage increases circulation and may be harmful to such a client. Have the client consult a physician first. If a client has arthritis, be very careful to avoid vigorous massage of the joints. Communicate with your client throughout the massage and adjust your touch according to the needs that she expresses. • Circular movement over the forehead. Starting at the eyebrow line, work across the middle of the forehead and then toward the hairline (Figure 22-26). • Crisscross movement. Start at one side of forehead and work back (Figure 22-27). • Stroking (headache) movement. Slide your fingers toward the center of the forehead and then draw your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the temples and rotate (Figure 22-28). • Brow and eye movement. Place your middle fingers at the inner corners of the eyes and your index fingers over the brows. Slide them toward the outer corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back to the inner corners (Figure 22-29). • Nose and upper cheek movement. Slide your fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently. Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to the bridge of the nose (Figure 22-30). • Mouth and nose movement. Apply a circular movement from the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the 581 PART 4 — SKIN CARE Chapter 22 — Facials headache) Stroking (28 Figure 22–movement. movement. Crisscross 22–27 Figure Figure 22–29 Brow and eye movement. Figure 22–30 Nose and upper cheek movement. 22 26 713 Figure 26–33 Thumb compression— ”friction movement.’’ Figure 26–34 Metatarsal scissors. Figure 26–35 Fist twist compression. PART 5 — NAIL CARE Chapter 26 — Pedicuring • Effleurage on instep. Place your fingers at the ball of the foot. Move your fingers in circular movements in opposite directions. Massage to the end of each toe, gently squeezing the tip of each toe (Figure 26-36). • Percussion or tapotement movement. Use fingertips to perform percussion or tapotement movements to lightly tap over the entire foot to complete a massage. BEYOND THE BASIC PEDICURE The basic step-by-step pedicure procedure is a necessary learning tool to help you master a valuable service. There is, however, much more information to come to enable you to go beyond the basics. The products, implements, and equipment you will need to perform a pedicure are an important part of the service. When you become more proficient and begin to customize a pedicure, the following information will be indispensable in helping you accomplish customization. Just as there are “systems” for nail enhancement products, so are there pedicure systems or lines available from many manufacturers of professional nail products. These manufacturers produce a complete line of products for the professional pedicure. It is recommended that you check out all of these lines. Compare them with each other and decide for yourself which is best for your clients. The educational support and commitment of the company are important in making this decision. The basic types of products necessary for the pedicure service are abrasive scrubs, soaks, massage preparations, and cuticle removers. Each of the types is discussed below. Foot soaks are products used in the pedicure bath to soften the skin. A good soak must contain a gentle but effective soap to thoroughly clean and deodorize the feet. Antibacterial soaps are no more effective than soaps whose labels do not make antibacterial claims. Therefore, do not choose a product simply because it is “antibacterial.” Like all soaps, the main function of so-called antibacterial soaps is to make bacteria so slippery that they slide off the skin. All soaps then are antibacterial, whether or not their manufacturers make this claim. Dead Sea salts, which are often found in foot-soak products, contain many types of salt including sodium, calcium, and magnesium salts. All are thought to be highly benefi cial to the skin. Professionally formulated products are recommended because they are designed to properly cleanse the foot without being overly harsh to the skin. Other ingredients may include natural oils used for their moisturizing and/or aromatherapy qualities. The soak sets the stage for the rest of the pedicure, so be sure to Focus on . . . Retailing For quick reference, keep these five points in mind when selling: 1. Establish rapport with the client. 2. Determine the client’s needs. 3. Recommend products/services based on these needs. 4. Emphasize benefits. 5. Close the sale. to be the client’s beauty advisor, not a psychiatrist, a marriage coun-selor, Business card referrals. Make up a special business card with your infor-mation on it, but leave room for a client to put her name on it as well. If your client is clearly pleased with your work, give her several cards. Ask her to put her name on them, and to refer her friends and associ-ates to you. For every card you receive from a new customer with her name on it, give her 10% off her next salon service, or a complemen-tary or a buddy. added service to her next appointment. This gives the client lots of motivation to recommend you to others, which in turn, helps build up your clientele (Figure 31-10). Local business referrals. Another terrifi c way to build business is to work with other businesses in your area. Look for clothing stores, fl orists, gift shops, and other small businesses near your salon. Offer to have a card swap and commit to referring your clients to them when they are in the market for goods or services that your neighbors can provide, if they will do the same for you. This is a great way to build a feeling of community among local vendors, and to reach new clients you may not be able to otherwise. Public speaking. Make yourself available to speak to local women’s groups, the PTA, organizations for young men and women, and any-where else that will put you in front of people in your community who are all potential clients. Put together a short program (20 to 30 min-utes) in which, for example, you might discuss professional appearance with emphasis in your chosen fi eld and other grooming tips for people looking for jobs or who are already employed. 836 Figure 31–10 Referral cards help build your client base. PART 6 — BUSINESS SKILLS Chapter 31 — On the Job Focus on . . . The Goal Always remember that success does not just come to you; you make it happen. How? By being a team player, having a positive attitude, and keeping a real sense of commitment to your work foremost in your mind. 31 Part 4: Skin Care focuses on another area in which new advances have altered the way students must be trained. The basics about skin are presented in “Skin Diseases & Disorders.” The popular topic of “Hair Removal” covers waxing, tweezing, and popular methods. “Facials” and “Facial Makeup” offer the critical information you’ll need for these increasingly requested services in the expanding field of esthetics. Procedures are included for many of the services needed in salons and day spas. Part 5: Nail Care contains completely revised chapters that are also perfectly aligned with Milady’s Standard Nail Technology. These chapters include “Nail Diseases & Disorders,” “Manicuring,” “Pedicuring,” “Nail Tips, Wraps & No-Light Gels,” “Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails,” and “UV Gels.” Part 6: Business Skills opens with the updated chapter “Seeking Employment” which prepares students for licensure exams as well as for job interviews and explains how to create a resume and portfolio. What you will be expected to know and do as a newly licensed cosmetologist is described in “On the Job.” It offers tips on how to make the most of your first job and how to learn the most from it, too. And the final chapter “The Salon Business,” exposes students to the numerous types of salons and salon ownerships available to them. “In Closing,” written by Robert Cromeans, one of the most widely recognized personalities in today’s professional hair industry, provides a message to students who have completed their course of study and are ready to enter the professional world. Robert’s message will motivate and encourage you and send you off to what can be one of the most lucrative and fun careers available today.
xvii E L E M E N T S O F T H I S E D I T I O N As part of this edition, many features are available to help you master key concepts and techniques. Throughout the text are short paragraphs in the outer column that draw attention to various skills and concepts that will help you reach your goal. The “Focus On . . .” pieces target sharpening technical skills, sharpening personal skills, ticket upgrading, client consultation, and building your client base. These topics are key to your success as a student and as a professional. These features provide interesting in for-mation that will enhance your understanding of what you are learning in the text and call attention to a special point. protect it against possible breakage. Conditioners are a temporary remedy 13 The “Activity” boxes describe classroom exercises that will help you understand fi rsthand the concepts being explained in the text. Focus on . . . Retailing Your client’s permanent wave will not be as manageable, or last as long, without a proper at-home maintenance • Always perform a test for metallic salts, if there is a possibility that program. You r client depends on you for advice on how to care for the new permanent. Make sure you always explain different styling options, and recommend effective professional retail products to use at home. metallic haircolor was previously used on the hair. • Always ears prior apply to applying protective permanent barrier cream waving around solution. the client’s hairline and • Do unless not dilute specified or add in the anything manufacturer’s to the directions. waving lotion or neutralizer • Keep exposure, waving rinse lotion thoroughly out of the with client’s cool water. eyes. In case of accidental • Always follow the manufacturer’s directions. • Wear gloves when applying solutions. • solution. Immediately replace cotton or towels that have become wet with • Do not save any opened, unused waving solution or neutralizer. When not used promptly, these chemicals may change in strength and effectiveness. Hair that has been permanently waved should be shampooed and conditioned with products formulated for chemically treated hair. PERMANENT WAVING PROCEDURES The following are basic perm procedures. The information presented earlier in the chapter on sectioning, base control, base direction, perm rods, wrapping techniques, and wrapping patterns should be used with the following procedures. These basic wrapping patterns may be combined in different ways to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps that provide an unlimited number of styling options. The basic perm wrap is also called a straight set wrap. In this wrapping pattern, all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on an equal-size basis. All base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod. The base control is the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped (Figure 18-41). In the curvature perm wrap, the movement curves within sectioned-out panels. Partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. This wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature areas (Figure 18-42). Thebricklay perm wrap is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying. Base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, and to blend the fl ow of the hair. Different bricklay patterns use different starting points (front hairline, occipital area, and crown), and these starting points affect the directional fl ow of the hair. The bricklay perm wrap can be used with various combinations of sectioning, base control, base direction, wrapping techniques, and perm rods (Figure 18-43). The weave technique uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. It can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. This technique is very effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions. It can also be used to create a smooth transition from the 443 PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 18 — Chemical Te x ture Services Figure 18–41 Basic perm wrapping pattern. Figure 18–42 Curvature perm wrapping pattern. ?224 Did In the Redding 1960s, beauty by You being revolutionized pioneer 18 shampoos. the first the Jheri staging He to market salon went industry acidic around pH-outperformed shampoos demonstrations the balanced (that country Know Redding pH below showed into alkaline 7) how his dipped a shampoos. glowing shampoo, piece of When test on orange, it would litmus pink, come paper his competitors’ or gold. up a products The litmus would come up a murky purple or black. Most cosmetic chemists today agree that a low pH is good for all hair, a nd especially chemically treated hair. PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 13 — Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning MEDICATED SHAMPOOS Medicated shampoos contain special chemicals or drugs that are very effective in reducing excessive dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions. Some medicated shampoos have to be prescribed by a physician. They are generally quite strong and could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair. In some cases, the shampoo must remain on the scalp for a longer period of time than other shampoos in order for the active ingredient to work. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. CLARIFYING SHAMPOOS Clarifying shampoos contain an acidic ingredient such as apple cider vinegar to cut through product buildup that can flatten hair. They also increase shine. These shampoos should only be used when a buildup is evident, perhaps once a week to once every 2 weeks, depending on how much styling product a client tends to use. BALANCING SHAMPOOS For oily hair and scalp, balancing shampoos wash away excess oiliness, while preventing the hair from drying out. DRY OR POWDER SHAMPOOS Sometimes, the state of a client’s health makes a wet shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage. For instance, an elderly client may experience some discomfort at the shampoo bowl due to pressure on the back of the neck. In such a case, it is advisable to use a dry or powder shampoo, which cleanses the hair without the use of soap and water. The powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb it through the hair. It also adds volume to the hair. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Never give a dry shampoo before performing a chemical service. COLOR-ENHANCING SHAMPOOS Color-enhancing shampoos are created by combining the surfactant base with basic color pigments. They are similar to temporary color rinses because they are attracted to porous hair and result in only slight color changes that are removed with plain shampooing. Color shampoos are used to brighten, to add a slight hint of color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones such as gold or brassiness, and overly cool strands. SHAMPOOS FOR HAIRPIECES AND WIGS Prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available for these hair enhancements (see Chapter 17). CONDITIONERS Conditioners are special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to ACTIVITY What would your “dream salon” look like? Try your hand at designing a salon that would attract the kinds of clients you want, offer the services you would like to specialize in, and provide an efficient, comfortable working environment for cosmetology professionals. Draw pictures, use word pictures, or try a combination of both. Pay attention to practical requirements, but feel free to dream a little, too. Skylights? Fountains? An employee exercise room? You name it. It’s your dream (Figure 32-10)! PAYROLL AND EMPLOYEE BENEFITS In order to have a successful business, one in which everyone feels appreciated and is happy to work hard and service clients, you must be willing to share your success with your staff whenever it is financially feasible to do so. You can do this in a number of ways. • Make allotment it your of top funds, priority this to comes meet first. your payroll obligations. In the • Whenever possible, offer hardworking and loyal employees as many benefits as possible. Either cover the cost of these benefits, or at least make them available to employees and allow them to decide if they can cover the cost themselves. • Provide staff members with a schedule of employee evaluations. Make it clear what is expected of them if they are to receive pay increases. • Create employees and stay and with your a clients tipping to policy. know It exactly is a good what idea is expected. both for your • Put your entire pay plan in writing. • Create incentives by giving your staff opportunities to earn more money, prizes, or tickets to educational events and trade shows. Create salon policies and stick to them. Everyone in the salon should be governed by the same rules, including you! Figure 32–10 What does your dream salon look like? 850 PART 6 — BUSINESS SKILLS Chapter 32 — The Salon Business 32 Did You Know ACTIVITY
xviii These features offer important, interesting information related to the content. Often “FYI” boxes direct you to a Web site or other resource for further information. These helpful tips draw attention to situations that might arise and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for these tips in procedures and throughout the text. This feature alerts you to check the laws in your region Here’s aTIP for procedures and practices that are regulated differently from state to state. It is important to contact state boards and provincial regulatory agencies to learn what is allowed and not allowed when you are studying. Your instructor will provide you with contact information. The words you will need to know in a chapter are given at the beginning, in a list of “Key Terms,” and appear in boldface when discussed in the chapter. If the word is diffi cult to pronounce, a phonetic pronunciation appears after it in parentheses. All key terms and all their defi nitions are included in the “Chapter Glossary” at the end of the chapter, as well as in the Glossary/Index at the end of the text. 533 a positive note, UVB rays contribute to the body’s synthesis of Vitamin D and other important minerals. However, the amount of sun exposure necessary for vitamin D synthesis is very minimal, not to mention the fact that you can get vitamin D from fortifi ed milk or orange juice. advise them sun. appropriate that you the exposed to are clients, it is recommendations: when they lotion with a take consultant to precautions your to protective exposure. following or potential As a sun-screen necessary moisturizer about the offering the of wear a Consider on all areas daily basis, SPF 15 • On a at least of • Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 AM and 3 PM. • Sunscreen should be applied at least 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow time for absorption. Many people make the mistake of applying sunscreen after they have been exposed to the heat and sun’s rays for 30 minutes or more. The already inflamed skin is more likely to react to the sunscreen chemicals when applied after sun exposure. • Apply sunscreen liberally after swimming or any activities that result in heavy perspiration. If the skin is exposed to hours of sun, such as during a boat trip or day at the beach, sunscreen should be applied periodically throughout the day as a precaution. • All sunscreen used for protection should be full or broad spectrum to filter out UVA and UVB rays of the sun. Check expiration dates printed on the bottle to make sure that the sunscreen has not expired. • Avoid exposing children younger than 6 months of age to the sun. • If prone to burning frequently and easily, wear a hat and protective clothing when participating in outdoor activities. Redheads and blue-eyed damage. advised to be skin, susceptible to sun should the precautions, clients checkups of detected, particularly dermatology for a mole are above of quickly. are heal blonds following the specializing in or shape does not addition to physician coloration, size, or scrape in lesion In a a regularly see changes or if any especially unexpectedly, bleeds the skin The American Cancer Society recommends using the ABCD Cancer Checklist Home self-examinations can also be an effective way to check for signs of potential skin cancer between scheduled doctor visits. When performing a self-care exam, clients should be advised to check for any changes in existing moles and pay attention to any new visible growths on the skin. SKIN AGING AND THE ENVIRONMENT to help make potential skin cancer easier to recognize. When checking existing moles, look for changes in any of the following: A, asymmetry; B, border; C, color; and D, diameter. Changes to any of these should be examined by a While the sun may play the major role in how the skin ages, changes in the environment also greatly influence this aging process. Pollutants in the air from factories, automobile exhaust, and even secondhand smoke can all influence the appearance and overall health of skin. While these pollutants affect the surface appearance of the skin, they can also change the health of physician. For more information, contact the American Cancer Society at www.cancer.org or (800) Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand (Figure 18-14). Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would the underlying cells and tissues, thereby speeding up the aging process. The best defense against these pollutants is the simplest one: follow a good daily skin-care routine. Routine washing and exfoliating (removing dead surface skin cells) at night helps to remove the buildup of pollutants ACS-2345. F I Y 20 not fi t (Figure 18-15). OTHER PERM RODS Soft bender rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape (Figure 18-16). The loop or circle rod is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop (Figure 18-17). END PAPERS End papers or end wraps are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods. End papers should extend beyond the ends of the hair to keep them smooth and straight and prevent “fishhooks.’’ The most common end paper tech-niques are the double flat wrap, single flat wrap, and bookend single paper wrap. • The double flat wrap uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past the hair ends. This wrap provides the most control over the hair ends and also helps keep them evenly distributed over the entire length of the rod (Figure 18-18). • The single flat wrap is similar to the double flat wrap, but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped (Figure 18-19). • The bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. The bookend wrap eliminates excess paper and Dimethyl urea hardeners use dimethyl urea (DMU) and also add cross-links to the natural nail plate, but unlike hardeners containing formal-dehyde, they do not cause adverse skin reactions. These hardeners do not work as quickly as formaldehyde-containing hardeners, but they will not over-harden the nails and are much less likely to cause skin sensitivity. TOP COAT Top co ats are applied over colored polish to prevent chipping and to add a shine to the finished nail. These contain ingredients that create hard shiny films after the solvent has evaporated. Typically the main ingredients are acrylic or cellulose-type film formers. NAIL POLISH DRYERS These products designed to hasten the drying of nail polishes are typically either applied with a dropper, a brush or sprayed on to the surface of the polish. These promote rapid drying by pulling solvents from the nail polish, causing the colored film to form more quickly. These products can dramatically shorten the dry time and will reduce the risk of smudging. HAND CREAM AND LOTION Hand lotion or cream adds a finishing touch to a manicure. Since they soften and smooth the hands, they make the skin and finished manicure look as beautiful as possible. Hand cream helps the skin retain moisture, so hands are less prone to becoming dry or cracked. Hand creams or lotions can be used in conjunction with warming mitts or paraffin dips to speed penetration into the skin. NAIL CONDITIONERS Nail conditioners contain ingredients to reduce brittleness of the nail plate and moisturize the surrounding skin. They should be applied as directed by the manufacturer, but they are especially useful when applied at night before bedtime. BASIC TABLE SETUP It is important that your manicure table is sanitary and properly equipped with implements, materials, and the cosmetic products needed to perform the service. Everything you need during a service should be at your fingertips. Having an orderly table will save you time and give your client more confidence in your abilities. Suggested placement of supplies on the manicuring table appears below. Since regulations regarding table setup vary from state to state, be guided by your instructor. To set up your table, use Procedure 25-1. 666 PART 5 — NAIL CARE Chapter 25 — Nail Care 25 Material safety data sheets, commonly referred to as MSDS, provide valuable safe-handling information about the products, as well as first aid and proper storage information. Salons must carry an MSDS for every professional product in use. They must be kept on file or in a notebook with easy access for staff to use as a reference. The company or distributor from which you order professional products is required by law to provide you with appropriate MSDS. Your instructor can explain the importance of MSDS and how to read them. LAW Learning Objectives After completing this chapter, you will be able to: • Identify the principles of color theory and relate them to haircolor. • Explain level and tone and their role in formulating haircolor. • List the four basic categories of haircolor, explain their chemical effects on the hair, and give examples of their use. • Explain the action of hair lighteners. • Demonstrate application techniques for temporary colors, semipermanent colors, permanent colors, demipermanent colors, and lighteners. • Demonstrate special-effects haircoloring techniques. Key Terms Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used. foil techniques pg. 513 glaze 478 activators pg. 506 aniline derivatives pg. 487 baliage or free-form technique pg. 517 base color pg. 483 cap technique pg. 514 color fillers pg. 499 hair color pg. 480 haircolor pg. 522 complementary colors pg. 485 conditioner fillers pg. 521 contributing pigment pg. 481 demipermanent haircolor pg. 486 developer pg. 488 double-process application pg. 499 filler pg. 521 pg. 480 hair lightening pg. 485 highlighting natural or vegetable haircolors pg. 487 new growth semipermanent haircolor pg. 486 single-process haircoloring pg. 507 off-the-scalp lighteners pg. 505 on-the-scalp lighteners pg. 513 highlighting shampoo pg. 517 law of color pg. 483 level pg. 481 level system pg. 505 oxidation pg. 489 patch test pg. 499 slicing pg. 514 soap cap pg. 494 permanent haircolors pg. 487 prelightening pg. 481 lighteners pg. 488 line of demarcation pg. 499 metallic or gradual haircolors pg. 488 pg. 499 presoftening pg. 520 primary colors pg. 523 special effects haircoloring pg. 513 temporary haircolor pg. 486 tertiary color pg. 484 tone pg. 483 resistant pg. 481 reverse highlighting or lowlighting pg. 513 secondary color pg. 484 pg. 482 toners pg. 489 virgin application pg. 499 volume pg. 488 weaving pg. 514 balance Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. In hairstyling, it signifies the proper degree of CHAPTER GLOSSARY asymmetrical balance Hairstyle design that features unequal proportions designed to balance facial features. bang area/fringe Triangular section that begins at the apex, or high point of the head, and ends at the front corners; fringe. concave profi le Curving inward. contrasting lines Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90-degree angle. 12 height to width. convex profi le Curving outward. curved lines Lines on an angle, used to soften a design. design texture Wave pattern. diagonal lines Lines positioned between horizontal and vertical lines. emphasis or focus The place in a hairstyle where the eye is drawn first before traveling to the rest of the design. form Outline of the overall hairstyle as seen from all angles. harmony Orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines. horizontal lines Lines parallel to the floor or horizon; creates width in design. parallel lines Repeating lines in a hairstyle; may be straight or curved. proportion Harmonious relationship among parts or things, or the comparative relation of one thing to another. profi le Outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view. rhythm Regular, recurrent pattern of movement in a hairstyle. single lines A hairstyle with only one line such as the one-length hairstyle. space Area that the hairstyle occupies; also thought of as the area inside the form. straight profi le Neither convex nor concave. symmetrical balance Hairstyle design that is similar on both sides of the face. transitional lines Usually curved lines that are used to blend and soften horizontal or vertical lines. vertical lines Lines that are straight up and down; creates length and height in hair design. 216 432 PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 18 — Chemical Tex ture Services 18 Figure 18–14 Straight rod and resulting curl. Figure 18–15 Long and short rods and the contours of the head. Here’s aTIPWhen using any wrapping method, slightly dampening the paper before wrapping causes it to cling to the hair, making it much easier to wrap. Figure 18–16 Soft bender rods. Figure 18–17 Loop rods. F Y I LAW Key Terms CHAPTER GLOSSARY
xix OT H E R E L E M E N T S Many features from previous editions of Milady’s Standard have been retained in this new edition. At the beginning of each chapter is a list of learning objectives that will tell you what important information you will be expected to know from the chapter. Learning Objectives Some information is so critical for your safety and the safety of your clients that it deserves special attention. The text directs you to this information in the “Caution” boxes found in the margins. Each chapter ends with questions designed to test your understanding of the information in CAUTION it. Your instructor may ask you to write the answers to these questions as an assignment or to answer them orally in class. If you have trouble answering a question, go back to the chapter to review the material and try again. The answers to the “Review Questions” are in your instructor’s Course Management Guide. angle pg. 245 apex pg. 244 bang (fringe) pg. 245 beveling pg. 245 blunt haircut pg. 258 carving pg. 288 clipper-over-comb pg. 292 cross-checking pg. 260 crown pg. 245 cutting line pg. 246 distribution pg. 282 elevation pg. 246 four corners pg. 244 free-hand notching pg. 289 free-hand slicing pg. 289 graduated haircut pg. 258 graduation pg. 246 growth pattern pg. 251 guideline pg. 247 hairline pg. 251 head form pg. 243 interior pg. 247 interior guideline pg. 273 layered haircut pg. 258 layers pg. 258 line pg. 245 long-layered haircut pg. 259 nape pg. 245 notching pg. 287 over-direction pg. 248 palm-to-palm pg. 257 parietal ridge pg. 243 part/parting pg. 246 perimeter pg. 247 point cutting pg. 286 razor-over-comb pg. 290 razor rotation pg. 290 reference points pg. 243 sections pg. 246 scissor-over-comb (shear-over-comb) pg. 285 slicing pg. 288 slide cutting pg. 285 slithering (effilating) pg. 288 stationary guideline pg. 247 subsections pg. 246 tapers pg. 292 tension pg. 255 texturizing pg. 286 traveling guideline pg. 247 uniform layers pg. 273 weight line pg. 258 Key Terms Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used. Learning Objectives After completing this chapter, you will be able to: • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Demonstrate the safe and proper use of the various tools of haircutting. • Demonstrate mastery of the four basic haircuts. • Demonstrate mastery of other haircutting techniques. 242 CAUTION As a cosmetology student, you should always receive hands-on training from your instructor before attempting any of the procedures discussed in this chapter. 563 G ood skin care can make a big difference in the way skin looks, and the way the client feels about his or her appearance. Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments can offer many improvements to the appearance of the skin. Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier, dry skin look and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look smoother, firmer, and less wrinkled. A combination of good salon facial treatments and helping the client plan an effective home care program individualized for their skin will show visible results. It is extremely rewarding to be able to help people relax, improve their appearance, and feel better about themselves (Figure 22-1). SKIN ANALYSIS AND CONSULTATION Skin analysis is a very important part of the facial treatment because it determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin, and what type of treatment the client’s skin needs. Consultation allows you the opportunity to ask the client questions about his or her health, skin care history, and to advise the client about appropriate home care products and treatments. HEALTH SCREENING Before beginning the analysis, you must have the client fill out a health-screening waxing, the questionnaire main purpose (Figure of the 22-health-2). screening Similar to the form form is used to determine for any contraindications the client might have that might indicate avoiding certain types of treatment on that particular client’s skin. A contraindication is a condition the client has, or a treatment the client is undergoing, that might cause a negative side effect during the facial treatment. For example, if the client is allergic to fragrance, using a fragranced product would be contraindicated. If a client is using a prescription drug, such as Retin-A® or Tazorac® (both topical drugs that cause skin exfoliation), using other exfoliants in the facial treatment is contraindicated. Accutane, an oral medication for cystic acne, causes thinning of the skin all over the body. Waxing, stimulating treatments, or exfoliation procedures should never be performed on the skin of someone using Accutane, or someone who has used the drug in the last 6 months. Because Accutane is an oral drug, it stays in the body for several months after the client stops using the drug. Figure 22–1 A facial is a soothing, pleasurable experience for the client. 22 16 394 REVIEW QUESTIONS CHAPTER GLOSSARY cornrows or canerows Narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to the scalp; created with a three-strand, on-the-scalp braid technique. fi shtail braid Simple over two-each strand other. braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they are crossed invisible or inverted braid locks or Three-dreadlocks strand braid Natural produced by textured overlapping hair that the is intertwined strands of hair and on meshed top of each together other. to form a single or separate network of hair. natural hairstyling Hairstyling that uses no chemicals or tints and does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern of the hair. rope braid Braid made with two strands that are twisted around each other. single braids Free-hanging braids, with or without extensions, that can be executed either underhand or overhand; also called visible braid individual or Three-box braids. strand. strand braid made by the underhand technique, in which the strands of hair are woven under the center 1. What is meant by “natural hairstyling’’? 2. In the context of braiding, what are the three qualities that determine hair texture? 3. What is a coil? 4. What six materials are most commonly used for hair extensions? 5. Why does textured (extremely curly or coiled) hair require special preparation before braiding? 6. What is the difference between a visible and invisible braiding style? 7. Describe rope and fishtail braids. 8. Explain the basic procedure for creating single braids. 9. Explain the methods of cornrowing with and without extensions. 10. Name the three basic methods of hair locking. REVIEW QUESTIONS
xx All step-by-step procedures offer clear, easy-to-understand directions and multiple photographs for learning the techniques. Step-by-step instructions occur in Parts 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the text. A list of the needed implements and materials appears at the start, along with any preparation that must be completed before the procedure, and the fi nished result appears at the end. Clear, precise instructions make following the procedure easy. Specifi c steps for cleanup and sanitation appear at the end of the procedure. PROCEDURE 14-2 GRADUATED HAIRCUT IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS See list of implements and materials in “Blunt Haircut’’ procedure. PREPARATION Follow preparation steps in “Blunt Haircut’’ procedure. PROCEDURE 1. Part the hair. Part the hair into six sections. Begin with a part from the front hairline just above the middle of each eyebrow back to the crown area, and clip the hair in place (Figure 14-98). Establish another part from the crown area where section one ends to the back of each ear, forming side sections two and three (Figure 14-99). Clip these sections in place. Part the hair down the center of the back to form sections four and five (Figure 14-100). Take a horizontal part from one ear to the other across the nape area about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) above the hairline. This section (six) is your horizontal guide section (Figure 14-101). 2. Create guideline. Establish your guideline by first cutting the center of the nape section to the desired 14 Figure 14–104 Measure off first horizontal section with comb. Figure 14–105 Comb first vertical subsection. Figure 14–106 Cut first vertical subsection. Figure 14–107 Create first vertical subsection in new section. Figure 14–108 Cut subsection. 269 14 length. Use a horizontal cutting line parallel to the fingers (Figure 14-102). Cut the right and left sides of the nape section the same length as the center guideline (Figure 14-103). 3. Measure and part off first section. Working upward in the left back section, measure and part off the first horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide (Figure 14-104). 4. Create vertical subsection. Beginning at the center part, establish a vertical subsection approximately 1⁄2 inch (1.25 centimeters) wide. Extend the subsection down to include the nape guideline. Comb the subsection smooth at a 45- degree angle to the scalp (Figure 14-105). Hold your fingers at a 90-degree angle to the strand and cut (Figure 14-106). 5. Cut horizontal section. Proceed to cut the entire horizontal section by parting off vertical subsections and cutting in the same manner as Step 4. Check each section vertically and horizontally throughout the haircut. Each completed section will serve as a guideline for the next section. 6. Part off. Part off another horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide. Beginning at the center, create another vertical subsection that extends down and includes the previously cut strands (Figure 14-107). Comb the hair smoothly at a 45-degree elevation to the head. Hold the fingers and shears at a 90-degree angle to the subsection and cut (Figure 14-108). Cut the entire horizontal section this way. Make sure the second section blends evenly with the previously cut section. Figure 14–98 Part off section 1. Figure 14–99 Form sections 2 and 3. Figure 14–100 Form sections 4 and 5. Figure 14–101 Horizontal guide. Figure 14–102 Cut the center nape section (guideline). Figure 14–103 Finish cutting nape section.
xxi E X T E N S I V E L E A R N I N G / T E A C H I N G PAC K AG E While Milady’s Standard Cosmetology is the center of the curriculum, students and educators have a wide range of supplements from which to choose. All supplements have been revised and updated to complement the new edition of the textbook. STUDENT SUPPLEMENTS In addition to the textbook, Milady has created many supplements to meet every student’s needs. All supplements have been revised, including the following: Milady’s Standard Cosmetology Study Guide The Study Guide is a colorful new study guide to help students recognize, understand, and retain the key concepts presented in each chapter of Milady’s Standard Cosmetology. The student-led exercises require minimal educator assistance. The Essential Companion provides six easy-to-follow features for each chapter—Essential Objectives, Essential Subjects, Essential Concepts, Essential Review, and Essential Discoveries and Accomplishments. Each one presents the key content in a different manner to help all students comprehend and remember it. A great new feature added to this edition is rubrics to be used as self-assessment by students. The attractive color design will engage all types of students so they can learn the important theory and practical aspects necessary for licensure and professional success. Answers are supplied in your instructor’s Course Management Guide. Milady’s Situational Problems for Cosmetology Students Situational Problems for Cosmetology Students tests students’ knowledge of how they should apply the information they have learned to real-life situations. This text asks that they apply that knowledge to situations that more closely reflect what they are likely to encounter as a salon employee, demonstrating that they know how to use the information they have learned. The questions are more complex than Exam Review questions, often describing a salon stylist or other professional who has a client with a combination of conditions, problems, or attitudes. The student will have to take desired results, both from a technical and a communication perspective. Answers are included in the back of the book.
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg
Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg

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Milady's standard cosmetology 2008 milady, baily, attenburg

  • 1.
  • 2. This is an electronic version of the print textbook. Due to electronic rights restrictions, some third party content may be suppressed. Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. The publisher reserves the right to remove content from this title at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. For valuable information on pricing, previous editions, changes to current editions, and alternate formats, please visit www.cengage.com/highered to search by ISBN#, author, title, or keyword for materials in your areas of interest.
  • 3. Arlene Alpert Margrit Altenburg Diane Carol Bailey Letha Barnes Lisha Barnes Deborah Beatty Mary Brunetti Jane Crawford Robert Cromeans Alyssa Evirs Catherine Frangie John Halal Colleen Hennessey Mary Beth Janssen Nancy King Mark Lees Toni Love Vivienne Mackinder Carey Nash Ruth Roche Teresa Sammarco Sue Sansom Douglas Schoon Sue Ellen Schultes Frank Shipman Jeryl Spear Au s t ra l ia Canada Mex ico Singapore Spain United K i ngdom United S t a t e s
  • 4. Milady’s Standard Cosmetology Director of Content and Media Production: Wendy A. Troeger Content Project Manager: Nina Tucciarelli Art Director: Joy Kocsis Composition: Graphic World Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by an means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, Web distribution, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. For permission to use material from this text or product, submit a request online at http://www.thomsonrights.com Any additional questions about permissions can be submitted by e-mail to thomsonrights@thomson.com NOTICE TO THE READER President, Milady: Dawn Gerrain Director of Editorial: John Fedor Managing Editor: Robert Serenka Product Manager: Jessica Burns Editorial Assistant: Michael Spring COPYRIGHT © 2008 THOMSON DELMAR LEARNING., a part of The Thomson Corporation. Thomson, the Star logo, and Delmar Learning are trademarks used herein under license. Printed in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 XXX 11 10 09 08 07 For more information contact Thomson Delmar Learning, 5 Maxwell Drive CLIFTON PARK, NY 12065-2919 at http://www.milady.com Director of Marketing: Wendy Mapstone Director of Industry Relations Milady and Salon Training International: Sandra Bruce Marketing Coordinator: Nicole Riggi Text Design: Studio Montage Library of Congress Cataloging-in- Publication Data Frangie, Catherine M. Milady’s standard cosmetology / Catherine M. Frangie. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-4180-4935-5 ISBN-10: 1-4180-4935-2 1. Beauty culture. I. Title. II. Title: Standard cosmetology. III. Title: Cosmetology. TT957.M5518 2007 646.7’2076--dc22 2006033202 Publisher does not warrant or guarantee any of the products described herein or perform any independent analysis in connection with any of the product information contained herein. Publisher does not assume, and expressly disclaims, any obligation to obtain and include information other than that provided to it by the manufacturer. The reader is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precautions that might be indicated by the activities herein and to avoid all potential hazards. By following the instructions contained herein, the reader willingly assumes all risks in connection with such instructions. The publisher makes no representation or warranties of any kind, including but not limited to, the warranties of fi tness for particular purpose or merchantability, nor are any such representations implied with respect to the material set forth herein, and the publisher takes no responsibility with respect to such material. The publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or part, from the readers’ use of, or reliance upon, this material.
  • 5. PA R T 4 S K I N C A R E 20 SKIN DISEASES & DISORDERS ........................ 530 21 HAIR REMOVAL ................................................. 546 22 FACIALS ............................................................... 561 23 FACIAL MAKEUP ............................................... 603 PA R T 5 N A I L C A R E 24 NAIL DISEASES & DISORDERS ........................ 642 25 MANICURING ..................................................... 655 26 PEDICURING ..................................................... 697 27 NAIL TIPS, WRAPS, & NO-LIGHT GELS ......... 723 28 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILS ................. 748 29 UV GELS ............................................................... 774 PA R T 6 B U S I N E S S S K I L L S 30 SEEKING EMPLOYMENT .................................. 790 31 ON THE JOB ........................................................ 819 32 THE SALON BUSINESS ...................................... 842 IN CLOSING ........................................................ 858 APPENDIX A RESOURCES ................................................................ 861 APPENDIX B ASSOCIATIONS .......................................................... 866 GLOSSARY/INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868 CONTENTS IN BRIEF PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES ............ 2 2 LIFE SKILLS ........................................................... 12 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE .......................... 25 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS .................. 33 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES ............................................................ 54 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY ...... 84 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH ..................... 119 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH ..................... 132 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP ............ 139 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY ................................... 164 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY ................................. 179 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN ....................... 194 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, AND CONDITIONING ................................................ 217 14 HAIRCUTTING .................................................. 241 15 HAIRSTYLING .................................................... 301 16 BRAIDING & BRAID EXTENSIONS ................. 365 17 WIGS & HAIR ENHANCEMENTS .................... 395 18 CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES ..................... 422 19 HAIRCOLORING ................................................ 477 iii
  • 7. The Nervous System .......................................................... 99 The Circulatory System .................................................... 103 The Endocrine System ..................................................... 108 The Digestive System ....................................................... 108 The Excretory System ....................................................... 108 The Respiratory System .................................................... 109 The Integumentary System .............................................. 109 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH Anatomy of the Skin ........................................................ 121 Maintaining Skin Health .................................................. 128 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH The Natural Nail .............................................................. 134 Nail Anatomy ................................................................... 134 Nail Growth ..................................................................... 136 Know Your Nails .............................................................. 137 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP Structure of the Hair ........................................................ 142 Chemical Composition of Hair ........................................ 144 Hair Analysis .................................................................... 147 Hair Growth .................................................................... 150 Hair Loss .......................................................................... 153 Disorders of the Hair ........................................................ 156 Disorders of the Scalp....................................................... 158 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY Chemistry ........................................................................ 166 Matter .............................................................................. 166 Potential Hydrogen (pH) ................................................. 172 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY Electricity ......................................................................... 181 Electrical Equipment Safety .............................................. 183 Electrotherapy .................................................................. 184 Other Electrical Equipment ............................................. 187 Light Therapy .................................................................. 187 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN Philosophy of Design ....................................................... 196 Elements of Hair Design .................................................. 197 Principles of Hair Design ................................................. 202 Infl uence of Hair Type on Hairstyle ................................. 205 Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure .......................................................... 207 Designing for Men ........................................................... 214 Client Consultation: Sample Dialogue ............................. 214 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, & CONDITIONING Understanding Shampoo .................................................. 219 Conditioners .................................................................... 224 Brushing the Hair ............................................................ 227 Scalp Massage ................................................................... 228 Shampoo Procedures ........................................................ 231 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE The Industry Standard ...................................................... xiii Features of This Edition .....................................................xiv New Organization and Chapters .........................................xv Elements of This Edition ...................................................xvii Other Elements ..................................................................xix Extensive Learning/Teaching Package .................................xxi CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS .................................. xxvi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................xxxix Reviewers ....................................................................... xxxix Photography Credits .......................................................xlviii PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Brief History of Cosmetology ............................................... 4 Career Paths for a Cosmetologist .......................................... 9 A Bright Future .................................................................. 11 2 LIFE SKILLS The Psychology of Success .................................................. 15 Managing Your Career ........................................................ 18 Goal Setting ....................................................................... 18 Time Management ............................................................. 19 Study Skills ........................................................................ 20 Ethics ................................................................................. 21 Personality Development and Attitude ............................... 22 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE Beauty and Wellness ........................................................... 27 Looking Good .................................................................... 28 Your Physical Presentation .................................................. 29 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS Human Relations ............................................................... 35 Communication Basics ....................................................... 37 The Client Consultation .................................................... 40 Special Issues in Communication ....................................... 45 In-Salon Communication ................................................... 48 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES Regulation .......................................................................... 56 Principles of Infection ........................................................ 60 Principles of Prevention ...................................................... 66 Disinfection Procedures ...................................................... 71 Universal Precautions ......................................................... 79 The Professional Salon Image ............................................. 80 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY Why Study Anatomy? ........................................................ 87 Cells ................................................................................... 87 Tissues................................................................................ 89 Organs and Body Systems .................................................. 89 The Skeletal System............................................................ 90 The Muscular System ......................................................... 93 v
  • 8. 14 HAIRCUTTING Basic Principles of Haircutting ......................................... 243 Client Consultation.......................................................... 249 Tools, Body Positions, and Safety ..................................... 252 Basic Haircuts .................................................................. 258 Other Cutting Techniques ................................................ 281 Clippers and Trimmers ..................................................... 292 15 HAIRSTYLING Client Consultation.......................................................... 303 Wet Hairstyling Basics ...................................................... 304 Finger Waving .................................................................. 304 Pin Curls .......................................................................... 310 Roller Curls ...................................................................... 317 Comb-Out Techniques ..................................................... 321 Hair Wrapping ................................................................. 323 Blow-Dry Styling ............................................................. 325 Thermal Hairstyling ......................................................... 336 Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing) ..................... 347 Styling Long Hair ............................................................. 355 16 BRAIDING & BRAID EXTENSIONS Client Consultation.......................................................... 368 Understanding the Basics ................................................. 370 Braiding the Hair ............................................................. 374 17 WIGS & HAIR ENHANCEMENTS The Consultation ............................................................. 397 Wigs ................................................................................. 400 Hairpieces ........................................................................ 412 Hair Extensions ................................................................ 416 18 CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES The Structure of Hair ....................................................... 424 The Client Consultation .................................................. 427 Permanent Waving ........................................................... 431 Chemical Hair Relaxers .................................................... 458 Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) ......................... 470 19 HAIRCOLORING Why People Color Their Hair .......................................... 479 Hair Facts ......................................................................... 480 Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone ......................... 481 Types of Haircolor ............................................................ 485 Consultation .................................................................... 490 Selecting Haircolor ........................................................... 493 Haircolor Applications ..................................................... 496 Using Lighteners .............................................................. 505 Using Toners .................................................................... 510 Special Effects Haircoloring .............................................. 513 Special Challenges in Haircolor/Corrective Solutions ....... 518 Haircoloring Safety Precautions ........................................ 525 PA R T 4 S K I N C A R E 20 SKIN DISEASES & DISORDERS Aging of the Skin ............................................................. 532 Disorders of the Skin ........................................................ 534 Avoiding Skin Problems ................................................... 541 21 HAIR REMOVAL Client Consultation.......................................................... 549 Permanent Hair Removal ................................................. 551 Methods of Temporary Hair Removal .............................. 552 22 FACIALS Skin Analysis and Consultation ........................................ 563 Determining Skin Type .................................................... 567 Skin Care Products ........................................................... 570 Client Consultation.......................................................... 574 Facial Massage .................................................................. 577 Electrotherapy and Light Therapy .................................... 584 Facial Treatments .............................................................. 587 Aromatherapy .................................................................. 599 23 FACIAL MAKEUP Cosmetics for Facial Makeup ............................................ 605 Makeup Color Theory ...................................................... 613 Basic Makeup Application ................................................ 618 Special-Occasion Makeup ................................................ 624 Corrective Makeup ........................................................... 625 Artifi cial Eyelashes ............................................................ 633 Safety Precautions ............................................................ 637 PA R T 5 N A I L C A R E 24 NAIL DISEASES & DISORDERS Nail Disorders .................................................................. 644 Nail Diseases .................................................................... 649 25 MANICURING Nail Technology Supplies ................................................. 657 Choosing a Nail Shape ..................................................... 668 Basic Manicure ................................................................. 669 French and American Manicures ...................................... 680 Conditioning Oil Manicure ............................................. 682 Performing a Man’s Manicure ........................................... 682 Paraffi n Wax Treatment .................................................... 686 Hand and Arm Massage ................................................... 689 Spa Manicure ................................................................... 692 Aromatherapy .................................................................. 692 26 PEDICURING Pedicure Tools .................................................................. 699 Performing Pedicures ........................................................ 703 Foot Massage .................................................................... 705 Beyond the Basic Pedicure ................................................ 713 vi
  • 9. 27 NAIL TIPS, WRAPS, & NO-LIGHT GELS Nail Tips .......................................................................... 725 Nail Wraps ....................................................................... 726 No-Light Gels .................................................................. 744 28 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILS “Liquid and Powder” Nail Enhancements ........................ 750 Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements Using Forms .. 752 Maintenance and Removal of Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nail Enhancements .......................................................... 767 Odorless Acrylic (Methacrylate) Products ......................... 767 Colored Acrylic (Methacrylate) Powders ........................... 772 29 UV GELS Application of UV Gel Nail Enhancements ...................... 777 Maintenance and Removal of UV Gel Nail Enhancements .................................................................. 783 PA R T 6 B U S I N E S S S K I L L S 30 SEEKING EMPLOYMENT Preparing for Licensure..................................................... 792 Preparing for Employment ............................................... 796 Doing It Right ................................................................. 817 31 ON THE JOB Moving from School to Work ........................................... 821 Out in the Real World ...................................................... 821 vii Managing Your Money ..................................................... 827 Discover the Selling You ................................................... 831 On Your Way ................................................................... 837 32 THE SALON BUSINESS Going into Business for Yourself ....................................... 841 Operating a Successful Salon ............................................ 848 Selling in the Salon ........................................................... 856 IN CLOSING Use Your Time Wisely ...................................................... 858 Form Good Habits ........................................................... 858 Seek Mentors.................................................................... 858 Explore the Possibilities .................................................... 858 Learn the Business ............................................................ 859 Continue to Learn ............................................................ 859 APPENDIX A RESOURCES ................................................................ 861 APPENDIX B ASSOCIATIONS ........................................................... 866 GLOSSARY/INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868
  • 11. PROCEDURES ix PROCEDURE 5-1 DISINFECTING NONELECTRICAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT ........................................... 72 PROCEDURE 5-2 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AFTER EACH CLIENT ................................................................ 74 PROCEDURE 5-3 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AT THE END OF DAY ................................................................. 75 PROCEDURE 5-4 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS AT LEAST ONCE EACH WEEK ................................................. 76 PROCEDURE 5-5 PROCEDURE FOR WASHING HANDS....................................................................................... 78 PROCEDURE 13-1 SCALP MASSAGE ......................................................................................................................... 229 PROCEDURE 13-2 BASIC SHAMPOO ........................................................................................................................ 232 PROCEDURE 13-3 GENERAL HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENTS .......................................................................... 237 PROCEDURE 14-1 BLUNT HAIRCUT ........................................................................................................................ 261 PROCEDURE 14-2 GRADUATED HAIRCUT ............................................................................................................ 268 PROCEDURE 14-3 UNIFORM-LAYERED HAIRCUT ............................................................................................... 274 PROCEDURE 14-4 LONG-LAYERED HAIRCUT ...................................................................................................... 278 PROCEDURE 14-5 CLIPPER CUT .............................................................................................................................. 295 PROCEDURE 15-1 PREPARING THE HAIR FOR WET STYLING .......................................................................... 306 PROCEDURE 15-2 HORIZONTAL FINGER WAVING ............................................................................................. 307 PROCEDURE 15-3 CARVED OR SCULPTED CURLS ............................................................................................... 314 PROCEDURE 15-4 WET SET WITH ROLLERS ......................................................................................................... 319 PROCEDURE 15-5 HAIR WRAPPING ......................................................................................................................... 324 PROCEDURE 15-6 BLOW-DRYING SHORT, LAYERED, CURLY HAIR TO PRODUCE SMOOTH AND FULL FINISH ...................................................................................................................... 329 PROCEDURE 15-7 BLOW-DRY SHORT, CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN .............................. 331 PROCEDURE 15-8 DIFFUSE LONG, CURLY OR EXTREMELY-CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN ...................................................................................................................................... 332 PROCEDURE 15-9 BLOW-DRY STRAIGHT OR WAVY HAIR WITH MAXIMUM VOLUME ............................. 333 PROCEDURE 15-10 BLOW-DRY BLUNT OR LONG LAYERED, STRAIGHT TO WAVY HAIR INTO A STRAIGHT STYLE ......................................................................................................... 334 PROCEDURE 15-11 THERMAL WAVING .................................................................................................................... 338 PROCEDURE 15-12 CURLING SHORT HAIR ............................................................................................................ 342 PROCEDURE 15-13 CURLING MEDIUM-LENGTH HAIR ...................................................................................... 343 PROCEDURE 15-14 CURLING HAIR (USING TWO LOOPS OR “FIGURE 8”) ...................................................... 344 PROCEDURE 15-15 SOFT PRESSING FOR NORMAL CURLY HAIR ....................................................................... 351 PROCEDURE 15-16 CHIGNON ................................................................................................................................... 357 PROCEDURE 15-17 BASIC FRENCH TWIST ............................................................................................................. 359 PROCEDURE 15-18 CLASSIC FRENCH TWIST ......................................................................................................... 360 PROCEDURE 16-1 PREPARING TEXTURED HAIR FOR BRAIDING .................................................................... 376 PROCEDURE 16-2 INVISIBLE BRAID ....................................................................................................................... 378 PROCEDURE 16-3 ROPE BRAID ................................................................................................................................ 380
  • 12. x PROCEDURE 16-4 FISHTAIL BRAID ......................................................................................................................... 382 PROCEDURE 16-5 SINGLE BRAIDS WITHOUT EXTENSIONS ............................................................................ 384 PROCEDURE 16-6 SINGLE BRAIDS WITH EXTENSIONS .................................................................................... 386 PROCEDURE 16-7 BASIC CORNROWS .................................................................................................................... 388 PROCEDURE 16-8 CORNROWS WITH EXTENSIONS .......................................................................................... 390 PROCEDURE 17-1 TAKING WIG MEASUREMENTS ............................................................................................... 405 PROCEDURE 17-2 PUTTING ON THE WIG............................................................................................................ 407 PROCEDURE 18-1 BASIC PERM ................................................................................................................................. 446 PROCEDURE 18-2 CURVATURE PERM ..................................................................................................................... 450 PROCEDURE 18-3 BRICKLAY PERM .......................................................................................................................... 452 PROCEDURE 18-4 WEAVE TECHNIQUE ................................................................................................................. 454 PROCEDURE 18-5 DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE .......................................................................... 455 PROCEDURE 18-6 SPIRAL PERM TECHNIQUE ...................................................................................................... 456 PROCEDURE 18-7 APPLYING VIRGIN HYDROXIDE RELAXERS .......................................................................... 464 PROCEDURE 18-8 HYDROXIDE RELAXER RETOUCH .......................................................................................... 467 PROCEDURE 18-9 APPLYING THIO RELAXER ........................................................................................................ 469 PROCEDURE 18-10 CURL RE-FORMING (SOFT CURL PERM) .............................................................................. 471 PROCEDURE 19-1 PERFORMING A PATCH TEST .................................................................................................. 495 PROCEDURE 19-2 PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST ................................................................................................... 497 PROCEDURE 19-3 TEMPORARY HAIRCOLOR APPLICATION ............................................................................ 498 PROCEDURE 19-4 SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR APPLICATION .................................................................. 500 PROCEDURE 19-5 SINGLE-PROCESS COLOR FOR VIRGIN HAIR ..................................................................... 502 PROCEDURE 19-6 PERMANENT SINGLE-PROCESS RE-TOUCH WITH A GLAZE .......................................... 504 PROCEDURE 19-7 LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR .................................................................................................... 508 PROCEDURE 19-8 TONER APPLICATION ............................................................................................................... 511 PROCEDURE 19-9 SPECIAL-EFFECTS HAIRCOLORING WITH FOIL, FULL HEAD .......................................... 515 PROCEDURE 21-1 TWEEZING EYEBROWS ............................................................................................................. 553 PROCEDURE 21-2 HOT WAXING EYEBROWS ........................................................................................................ 556 PROCEDURE 21-3 BODY WAXING ............................................................................................................................ 558 PROCEDURE 22-1 BASIC FACIAL ............................................................................................................................... 590 PROCEDURE 22-2 FACIAL FOR DRY SKIN ............................................................................................................... 594 PROCEDURE 22-3 FACIAL FOR OILY SKIN WITH OPEN COMEDONES (BLACKHEADS) .............................. 596 PROCEDURE 22-4 FACIAL FOR ACNE-PRONE AND PROBLEM SKIN ................................................................ 598 PROCEDURE 23-1 PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP APPLICATION ............................................................................... 620 PROCEDURE 23-2 BAND LASH APPLICATION ....................................................................................................... 635 PROCEDURE 25-1 BASIC TABLE SETUP ................................................................................................................... 667 PROCEDURE 25-2 HANDLING BLOOD DURING A MANICURE ........................................................................ 670
  • 13. xi PROCEDURE 25-3 PRE-SERVICE SANITATION ....................................................................................................... 672 PROCEDURE 25-4 PERFORMING A BASIC MANICURE ........................................................................................ 674 PROCEDURE 25-5 POST-SERVICE PROCEDURES .................................................................................................. 679 PROCEDURE 25-6 PERFORMING FRENCH AND AMERICAN MANICURES ..................................................... 681 PROCEDURE 25-7 PERFORMING A CONDITIONING OIL MANICURE ............................................................ 683 PROCEDURE 25-8 PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENT BEFORE MANICURE ............................................................. 687 PROCEDURE 25-9 PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENT DURING MANICURE ............................................................ 688 PROCEDURE 25-10 HAND MASSAGE ......................................................................................................................... 690 PROCEDURE 25-11 ARM MASSAGE ............................................................................................................................ 691 PROCEDURE 26-1 PRE-SERVICE FOR PEDICURE .................................................................................................. 704 PROCEDURE 26-2 PERFORMING A BASIC PEDICURE ......................................................................................... 706 PROCEDURE 26-3 POST-SERVICE PROCEDURES .................................................................................................. 709 PROCEDURE 26-4 DISINFECTING FOOT SPAS ...................................................................................................... 710 PROCEDURE 26-5 THE FULL-SERVICE PEDICURE .............................................................................................. 717 PROCEDURE 27-1 NAIL TIP APPLICATION PRE-SERVICE .................................................................................... 727 PROCEDURE 27-2 NAIL TIP APPLICATION ............................................................................................................ 728 PROCEDURE 27-3 NAIL TIP APPLICATION POST-SERVICE ................................................................................. 731 PROCEDURE 27-4 NAIL TIP REMOVAL .................................................................................................................... 732 PROCEDURE 27-5 NAIL WRAP PRE-SERVICE .......................................................................................................... 734 PROCEDURE 27-6 NAIL WRAP APPLICATION ........................................................................................................ 736 PROCEDURE 27-7 NAIL WRAP POST-SERVICE ....................................................................................................... 739 PROCEDURE 27-8 TWO-WEEK FABRIC WRAP MAINTENANCE ......................................................................... 740 PROCEDURE 27-9 FOUR-WEEK FABRIC WRAP MAINTENANCE ....................................................................... 741 PROCEDURE 27-10 FABRIC WRAP REMOVAL .......................................................................................................... 743 PROCEDURE 27-11 NO-LIGHT GEL APPLICATION ................................................................................................ 745 PROCEDURE 28-1 APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS ............................................................................................................................. 757 PROCEDURE 28-2 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS .................................................................................................................. 763 PROCEDURE 28-3 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE .................................. 768 PROCEDURE 28-4 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT CRACK REPAIR .............................. 770 PROCEDURE 28-5 ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENT REMOVAL ....................................... 771 PROCEDURE 29-1 LIGHT-CURED GEL APPLICATION .......................................................................................... 779 PROCEDURE 29-2 APPLICATION OF UV GEL OVER FORMS .............................................................................. 784
  • 15. P R E F A C E M I L A DY ’ S S TA N DA R D C O S M E TO L O G Y Congratulations! You are about to start on a journey that can take you in many directions and holds the potential to make you a confident, successful professional in cosmetology. As a cosmetologist, you will become a trusted professional, the person your clients rely on to provide them with ongoing service, enabling them to look and feel their best. You will become as personally involved in your clients’ lives as their physicians or dentists are, and with study and practice, you can be as much in demand as a well-regarded medical provider. Milady’s Standard Textbook of Cosmetology was the creation of Nicholas F. Cimaglia, founder of Milady Publishing Company, which he established 80 years ago, in 1927. He began his career in the beauty business as a salesman for a beauty supply distributor, selling his book, the New York State Barbering Exam, along with hair tonics and razors, door to door to barber shops in New York City. In 1938, Nick Cimaglia published the fi rst edition of Milady’s Standard Textbook of Cosmetology, and it has since been the textbook of choice for cosmetology education, undergoing many revisions. Throughout its lifetime, it has consistently been the most-used cosmetology textbook in the world. With the many changes in the fi eld of cosmetology, new editions of the text are needed periodically, and Milady is committed to making it the best cosmetology educational tool available. T H E I N D U S T R Y S TANDA R D This edition of Milady’s Standard Cosmetology provides you with the information you will need to pass the licensure exams as well as the most contemporary techniques to ensure your success once you are on the job. Before beginning this revision, Milady surveyed hundreds of educators and professionals, held focus groups, and received in-depth comments from dozens of reviewers to learn what needed to be changed, added, or deleted. Next we consulted with educational experts to learn the best way to present the material, so that all types of learners could understand it and remember it. Then we went to several experts in various cosmetology-related fields to write or revise the chapters. Finally, we sent the finished manuscripts to yet more subject experts to ensure the accuracy and thoroughness of the material. What you hold in your hands is the result. Milady’s Standard Cosmetology contains new information on many subjects, including sanitation and infection control, and haircoloring. As a part of your cosmetology education, this book will serve as a valuable guide, and you’ll refer to it again and again throughout your career. xiii
  • 16. xiv F E AT U R E S O F T H I S E D I T I O N In response to the suggestions of the cosmetology educators and professionals who reviewed the Milady’s Standard Cosmetology and to those submitted by the students who use this text, this edition includes many new chapters. We’ve aligned our core textbooks so that information appearing in any book that is also in another text, whether it be cosmetology, nail technology, or esthetics, now matches from one book to another. Milady has also dramatically changed the design of the textbook to refl ect the innovative and unique energy and artistry found in a career within the beauty business and we’ve included new photography and illustrations to bring you the most valuable, effective educational material available. To get the most out of the time you will spend studying, take a few minutes fi rst to learn about the textbook and how to use it before you begin. Use the Preface information that follows as a guide to lead you through the special features the textbook provides to help you learn, understand, and retain the important information within. The Nervous System .......................................................... 99 The Circulatory System .................................................... 103 The Endocrine System ..................................................... 108 The Digestive System ....................................................... 108 The Excretory System ....................................................... 108 The Respiratory System .................................................... 109 The Integumentary System .............................................. 109 7 SKIN STRUCTURE & GROWTH Anatomy of the Skin ........................................................ 121 Maintaining Skin Health .................................................. 128 8 NAIL STRUCTURE & GROWTH The Natural Nail .............................................................. 134 Nail Anatomy ................................................................... 134 Nail Growth ..................................................................... 136 Know Your Nails .............................................................. 137 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR & SCALP Structure of the Hair ........................................................ 142 Chemical Composition of Hair ........................................ 144 Hair Analysis .................................................................... 147 Hair Growth .................................................................... 150 Hair Loss .......................................................................... 153 Disorders of the Hair ........................................................ 156 Disorders of the Scalp....................................................... 158 10 BASICS OF CHEMISTRY Chemistry ........................................................................ 166 Matter .............................................................................. 166 Potential Hydrogen (pH) ................................................. 172 11 BASICS OF ELECTRICITY Electricity ......................................................................... 181 Electrical Equipment Safety .............................................. 183 Electrotherapy .................................................................. 184 Other Electrical Equipment ............................................. 187 Light Therapy .................................................................. 187 PA R T 3 H A I R C A R E 12 PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN Philosophy of Design ....................................................... 196 Elements of Hair Design .................................................. 197 Principles of Hair Design ................................................. 202 Infl uence of Hair Type on Hairstyle ................................. 205 Creating Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure .......................................................... 207 Designing for Men ........................................................... 214 Client Consultation: Sample Dialogue ............................. 214 13 SHAMPOOING, RINSING, & CONDITIONING Understanding Shampoo .................................................. 219 Conditioners .................................................................... 224 Brushing the Hair ............................................................ 227 Scalp Massage ................................................................... 228 Shampoo Procedures ........................................................ 231 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE The Industry Standard ...................................................... xiii Features of This Edition .....................................................xiv New Organization and Chapters .........................................xv Elements of This Edition ...................................................xvii Other Elements ..................................................................xix Extensive Learning/Teaching Package .................................xxi CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS .................................. xxvi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................xxxix Reviewers ....................................................................... xxxix Photography Credits .......................................................xlviii PA R T 1 O R I E N TAT I O N 1 HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Brief History of Cosmetology ............................................... 4 Career Paths for a Cosmetologist .......................................... 9 A Bright Future .................................................................. 11 2 LIFE SKILLS The Psychology of Success .................................................. 15 Managing Your Career ........................................................ 18 Goal Setting ....................................................................... 18 Time Management ............................................................. 19 Study Skills ........................................................................ 20 Ethics ................................................................................. 21 Personality Development and Attitude ............................... 22 3 YOUR PROFESSIONAL IMAGE Beauty and Wellness ........................................................... 27 Looking Good .................................................................... 28 Your Physical Presentation .................................................. 29 4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS Human Relations ............................................................... 35 Communication Basics ....................................................... 37 The Client Consultation .................................................... 40 Special Issues in Communication ....................................... 45 In-Salon Communication ................................................... 48 PA R T 2 G E N E R A L S C I E N C E S 5 INFECTION CONTROL: PRINCIPLES & PRACTICES Regulation .......................................................................... 56 Principles of Infection ........................................................ 60 Principles of Prevention ...................................................... 66 Disinfection Procedures ...................................................... 71 Universal Precautions ......................................................... 79 The Professional Salon Image ............................................. 80 6 GENERAL ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY Why Study Anatomy? ........................................................ 87 Cells ................................................................................... 87 Tissues................................................................................ 89 Organs and Body Systems .................................................. 89 The Skeletal System............................................................ 90 The Muscular System ......................................................... 93 v
  • 17. xv N E W O R GA N I Z AT I O N A N D C H A P T E R S By learning and using the tools in this text along with your teachers’ instruction, you will develop the abilities you need to build a loyal and satisfied clientele. To help you locate information more easily, the chapters are grouped in six main parts. Part 1: Orientation consists of four chapters that cover the field of cosmetology and the personal skills you will need to become successful. The first chapter, “History & Opportunities,” outlines where cosmetology came from and where it can take you. In “Life Skills,” the second chapter, the ability to set goals and maintain a good attitude are emphasized along with the psychology of success. “Your Professional Image” stresses the importance of inward beauty and health as well as outward appearance, and “Communicat-ing for Success” describes the important process of building client relationships based on trust and effective communication. Part 2: General Sciences includes important information you need to know to keep yourself and your clients safe and healthy. “Infection Control: Principles & Practice” offers the most current, vital facts about hepatitis, HIV, and other infectious viruses and bacteria and tells how to prevent their spread in the salon. “General Anatomy and Physiology,” “Skin Structure & Growth,” “Nail Structure & Growth,” “Properties of the Hair & Scalp,” “Basics of Chemistry,” and “Basics of Electricity” provide essential information that will affect how you work with clients, service products, and tools. Part 3: Hair Care offers information on every aspect of hair. “Principles of Hair Design” explores the ways hair can be sculpted to enhance a client’s facial shape. The foundation on which almost every hair service is built is covered in “Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning,” followed by a totally updated “Haircutting” chapter, complete with step-by- step procedures for core cuts with fantastic new glamour shots to show the finished look. Step-by-step procedures are also found in “Hairstyling,” along with information on new tools and techniques. Another revised chapter, “Braiding & Braid Extensions,” is followed by “Wigs & Hair Enhancements,” and both “Chemical Texture Services” and “Haircoloring” reflect the most recent advances in these areas. chapter outline Brief History of Cosmetology Career Paths for a Cosmetologist A Bright Future ?Tinea frequently barbae (encountered Barber’s Itch) is infection the most resulting Did You Know redness and infl ammation, the medical term is “seborrheic dermatitis’’ from hair services that affects the coarse (seb-oh-REE-ik dur-muh-TY-t is). Occasionally, seborrheic dermatitis hairs in the mustache and beard area, or can also be found in the eyebrows or beard. A client with this condition around the neck and scalp, usually in men (see chapter 5 for more details). should be referred to a physician. FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA) Tinea (TIN-ee-uh) is the medical term for ringworm. It is characterized by itching, scales, and, sometimes, painful circular lesions. Several such patches may be present at one time. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism and not a parasite, as the old-fashioned term “ringworm’’ seems to suggest. All forms of tinea are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another. Infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease. Bathtubs, swimming pools, and unsanitary personal articles are also sources of transmission. Practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment. Tinea capitis (KAP-ih-tis) is another type of fungal infection characterized by red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles (Figure 9-24). The patches spread and the hair becomes brittle. Hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from the enlarged open follicle. Tinea favosa (fah-VOH-suh) is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on the scalp called scutula (SKUCH-ul-uh), which have a distinctive odor. Scars from tinea favosa are bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny. PARASITIC INFECTIONS Scabies is a highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a “mite’’ that burrows under the skin. Vesicles (blisters) and pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this parasite. Excessive itching results in scratching the infected areas and makes the condition worse. Practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures are very important to prevent the spread of this disease. A client with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment. Pe diculosis capitis (puh-dik-yuh-LOH-sis KAP-ih-tis) is the infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice (Figures 9-25 and 9-26). As these parasites feed on the scalp, itching occurs and the scratching that usually results can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles. You can distinguish them from dandruff fl akes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass. Properly practicing state board—-approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of this disease. Several nonprescription medications are available. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician or pharmacist. 159 PROCEDURE15-8 PART 2 — GENERAL SCIENCES Chapter 9 — Properties of the Hair and Scalp Figure 9–24 Tinea capitis. Figure 9–25 Head lice. Figure 9–26 Nits (lice eggs). 9 DIFFUSE LONG, CURLY OR EXTREMELY-CURLY HAIR IN ITS NATURAL WAVE PATTERN 1. Apply product product. after towel-Apply a blotting styling hair. product or silicone 2. Work one section. For easier control, section the hair and work on one particular section at a time. 3. Use diffuser. Attach the diffuser to the blow-dryer and diffuse the hair by letting the hair sit on top of the diffuser and pulsing the dryer toward the scalp and then away, repeating until the section is dry (Figure 15-99). Alternatively, gently run the section being dried through your fingers and bring the diffuser toward your hand (Figure 15-100). Figure 15–99 Using a diffuser. Figure 15–100 Another way to use a diffuser. 15
  • 18. xvi CAUTION Do not massage a client who has high blood pressure, a heart condition, or has had a stroke. Massage increases circulation and may be harmful to such a client. Have the client consult a physician first. If a client has arthritis, be very careful to avoid vigorous massage of the joints. Communicate with your client throughout the massage and adjust your touch according to the needs that she expresses. • Circular movement over the forehead. Starting at the eyebrow line, work across the middle of the forehead and then toward the hairline (Figure 22-26). • Crisscross movement. Start at one side of forehead and work back (Figure 22-27). • Stroking (headache) movement. Slide your fingers toward the center of the forehead and then draw your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the temples and rotate (Figure 22-28). • Brow and eye movement. Place your middle fingers at the inner corners of the eyes and your index fingers over the brows. Slide them toward the outer corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back to the inner corners (Figure 22-29). • Nose and upper cheek movement. Slide your fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently. Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to the bridge of the nose (Figure 22-30). • Mouth and nose movement. Apply a circular movement from the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the 581 PART 4 — SKIN CARE Chapter 22 — Facials headache) Stroking (28 Figure 22–movement. movement. Crisscross 22–27 Figure Figure 22–29 Brow and eye movement. Figure 22–30 Nose and upper cheek movement. 22 26 713 Figure 26–33 Thumb compression— ”friction movement.’’ Figure 26–34 Metatarsal scissors. Figure 26–35 Fist twist compression. PART 5 — NAIL CARE Chapter 26 — Pedicuring • Effleurage on instep. Place your fingers at the ball of the foot. Move your fingers in circular movements in opposite directions. Massage to the end of each toe, gently squeezing the tip of each toe (Figure 26-36). • Percussion or tapotement movement. Use fingertips to perform percussion or tapotement movements to lightly tap over the entire foot to complete a massage. BEYOND THE BASIC PEDICURE The basic step-by-step pedicure procedure is a necessary learning tool to help you master a valuable service. There is, however, much more information to come to enable you to go beyond the basics. The products, implements, and equipment you will need to perform a pedicure are an important part of the service. When you become more proficient and begin to customize a pedicure, the following information will be indispensable in helping you accomplish customization. Just as there are “systems” for nail enhancement products, so are there pedicure systems or lines available from many manufacturers of professional nail products. These manufacturers produce a complete line of products for the professional pedicure. It is recommended that you check out all of these lines. Compare them with each other and decide for yourself which is best for your clients. The educational support and commitment of the company are important in making this decision. The basic types of products necessary for the pedicure service are abrasive scrubs, soaks, massage preparations, and cuticle removers. Each of the types is discussed below. Foot soaks are products used in the pedicure bath to soften the skin. A good soak must contain a gentle but effective soap to thoroughly clean and deodorize the feet. Antibacterial soaps are no more effective than soaps whose labels do not make antibacterial claims. Therefore, do not choose a product simply because it is “antibacterial.” Like all soaps, the main function of so-called antibacterial soaps is to make bacteria so slippery that they slide off the skin. All soaps then are antibacterial, whether or not their manufacturers make this claim. Dead Sea salts, which are often found in foot-soak products, contain many types of salt including sodium, calcium, and magnesium salts. All are thought to be highly benefi cial to the skin. Professionally formulated products are recommended because they are designed to properly cleanse the foot without being overly harsh to the skin. Other ingredients may include natural oils used for their moisturizing and/or aromatherapy qualities. The soak sets the stage for the rest of the pedicure, so be sure to Focus on . . . Retailing For quick reference, keep these five points in mind when selling: 1. Establish rapport with the client. 2. Determine the client’s needs. 3. Recommend products/services based on these needs. 4. Emphasize benefits. 5. Close the sale. to be the client’s beauty advisor, not a psychiatrist, a marriage coun-selor, Business card referrals. Make up a special business card with your infor-mation on it, but leave room for a client to put her name on it as well. If your client is clearly pleased with your work, give her several cards. Ask her to put her name on them, and to refer her friends and associ-ates to you. For every card you receive from a new customer with her name on it, give her 10% off her next salon service, or a complemen-tary or a buddy. added service to her next appointment. This gives the client lots of motivation to recommend you to others, which in turn, helps build up your clientele (Figure 31-10). Local business referrals. Another terrifi c way to build business is to work with other businesses in your area. Look for clothing stores, fl orists, gift shops, and other small businesses near your salon. Offer to have a card swap and commit to referring your clients to them when they are in the market for goods or services that your neighbors can provide, if they will do the same for you. This is a great way to build a feeling of community among local vendors, and to reach new clients you may not be able to otherwise. Public speaking. Make yourself available to speak to local women’s groups, the PTA, organizations for young men and women, and any-where else that will put you in front of people in your community who are all potential clients. Put together a short program (20 to 30 min-utes) in which, for example, you might discuss professional appearance with emphasis in your chosen fi eld and other grooming tips for people looking for jobs or who are already employed. 836 Figure 31–10 Referral cards help build your client base. PART 6 — BUSINESS SKILLS Chapter 31 — On the Job Focus on . . . The Goal Always remember that success does not just come to you; you make it happen. How? By being a team player, having a positive attitude, and keeping a real sense of commitment to your work foremost in your mind. 31 Part 4: Skin Care focuses on another area in which new advances have altered the way students must be trained. The basics about skin are presented in “Skin Diseases & Disorders.” The popular topic of “Hair Removal” covers waxing, tweezing, and popular methods. “Facials” and “Facial Makeup” offer the critical information you’ll need for these increasingly requested services in the expanding field of esthetics. Procedures are included for many of the services needed in salons and day spas. Part 5: Nail Care contains completely revised chapters that are also perfectly aligned with Milady’s Standard Nail Technology. These chapters include “Nail Diseases & Disorders,” “Manicuring,” “Pedicuring,” “Nail Tips, Wraps & No-Light Gels,” “Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails,” and “UV Gels.” Part 6: Business Skills opens with the updated chapter “Seeking Employment” which prepares students for licensure exams as well as for job interviews and explains how to create a resume and portfolio. What you will be expected to know and do as a newly licensed cosmetologist is described in “On the Job.” It offers tips on how to make the most of your first job and how to learn the most from it, too. And the final chapter “The Salon Business,” exposes students to the numerous types of salons and salon ownerships available to them. “In Closing,” written by Robert Cromeans, one of the most widely recognized personalities in today’s professional hair industry, provides a message to students who have completed their course of study and are ready to enter the professional world. Robert’s message will motivate and encourage you and send you off to what can be one of the most lucrative and fun careers available today.
  • 19. xvii E L E M E N T S O F T H I S E D I T I O N As part of this edition, many features are available to help you master key concepts and techniques. Throughout the text are short paragraphs in the outer column that draw attention to various skills and concepts that will help you reach your goal. The “Focus On . . .” pieces target sharpening technical skills, sharpening personal skills, ticket upgrading, client consultation, and building your client base. These topics are key to your success as a student and as a professional. These features provide interesting in for-mation that will enhance your understanding of what you are learning in the text and call attention to a special point. protect it against possible breakage. Conditioners are a temporary remedy 13 The “Activity” boxes describe classroom exercises that will help you understand fi rsthand the concepts being explained in the text. Focus on . . . Retailing Your client’s permanent wave will not be as manageable, or last as long, without a proper at-home maintenance • Always perform a test for metallic salts, if there is a possibility that program. You r client depends on you for advice on how to care for the new permanent. Make sure you always explain different styling options, and recommend effective professional retail products to use at home. metallic haircolor was previously used on the hair. • Always ears prior apply to applying protective permanent barrier cream waving around solution. the client’s hairline and • Do unless not dilute specified or add in the anything manufacturer’s to the directions. waving lotion or neutralizer • Keep exposure, waving rinse lotion thoroughly out of the with client’s cool water. eyes. In case of accidental • Always follow the manufacturer’s directions. • Wear gloves when applying solutions. • solution. Immediately replace cotton or towels that have become wet with • Do not save any opened, unused waving solution or neutralizer. When not used promptly, these chemicals may change in strength and effectiveness. Hair that has been permanently waved should be shampooed and conditioned with products formulated for chemically treated hair. PERMANENT WAVING PROCEDURES The following are basic perm procedures. The information presented earlier in the chapter on sectioning, base control, base direction, perm rods, wrapping techniques, and wrapping patterns should be used with the following procedures. These basic wrapping patterns may be combined in different ways to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps that provide an unlimited number of styling options. The basic perm wrap is also called a straight set wrap. In this wrapping pattern, all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on an equal-size basis. All base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod. The base control is the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped (Figure 18-41). In the curvature perm wrap, the movement curves within sectioned-out panels. Partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. This wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature areas (Figure 18-42). Thebricklay perm wrap is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying. Base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, and to blend the fl ow of the hair. Different bricklay patterns use different starting points (front hairline, occipital area, and crown), and these starting points affect the directional fl ow of the hair. The bricklay perm wrap can be used with various combinations of sectioning, base control, base direction, wrapping techniques, and perm rods (Figure 18-43). The weave technique uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. It can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. This technique is very effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions. It can also be used to create a smooth transition from the 443 PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 18 — Chemical Te x ture Services Figure 18–41 Basic perm wrapping pattern. Figure 18–42 Curvature perm wrapping pattern. ?224 Did In the Redding 1960s, beauty by You being revolutionized pioneer 18 shampoos. the first the Jheri staging He to market salon went industry acidic around pH-outperformed shampoos demonstrations the balanced (that country Know Redding pH below showed into alkaline 7) how his dipped a shampoos. glowing shampoo, piece of When test on orange, it would litmus pink, come paper his competitors’ or gold. up a products The litmus would come up a murky purple or black. Most cosmetic chemists today agree that a low pH is good for all hair, a nd especially chemically treated hair. PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 13 — Shampooing, Rinsing, and Conditioning MEDICATED SHAMPOOS Medicated shampoos contain special chemicals or drugs that are very effective in reducing excessive dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions. Some medicated shampoos have to be prescribed by a physician. They are generally quite strong and could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair. In some cases, the shampoo must remain on the scalp for a longer period of time than other shampoos in order for the active ingredient to work. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. CLARIFYING SHAMPOOS Clarifying shampoos contain an acidic ingredient such as apple cider vinegar to cut through product buildup that can flatten hair. They also increase shine. These shampoos should only be used when a buildup is evident, perhaps once a week to once every 2 weeks, depending on how much styling product a client tends to use. BALANCING SHAMPOOS For oily hair and scalp, balancing shampoos wash away excess oiliness, while preventing the hair from drying out. DRY OR POWDER SHAMPOOS Sometimes, the state of a client’s health makes a wet shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage. For instance, an elderly client may experience some discomfort at the shampoo bowl due to pressure on the back of the neck. In such a case, it is advisable to use a dry or powder shampoo, which cleanses the hair without the use of soap and water. The powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb it through the hair. It also adds volume to the hair. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Never give a dry shampoo before performing a chemical service. COLOR-ENHANCING SHAMPOOS Color-enhancing shampoos are created by combining the surfactant base with basic color pigments. They are similar to temporary color rinses because they are attracted to porous hair and result in only slight color changes that are removed with plain shampooing. Color shampoos are used to brighten, to add a slight hint of color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones such as gold or brassiness, and overly cool strands. SHAMPOOS FOR HAIRPIECES AND WIGS Prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available for these hair enhancements (see Chapter 17). CONDITIONERS Conditioners are special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to ACTIVITY What would your “dream salon” look like? Try your hand at designing a salon that would attract the kinds of clients you want, offer the services you would like to specialize in, and provide an efficient, comfortable working environment for cosmetology professionals. Draw pictures, use word pictures, or try a combination of both. Pay attention to practical requirements, but feel free to dream a little, too. Skylights? Fountains? An employee exercise room? You name it. It’s your dream (Figure 32-10)! PAYROLL AND EMPLOYEE BENEFITS In order to have a successful business, one in which everyone feels appreciated and is happy to work hard and service clients, you must be willing to share your success with your staff whenever it is financially feasible to do so. You can do this in a number of ways. • Make allotment it your of top funds, priority this to comes meet first. your payroll obligations. In the • Whenever possible, offer hardworking and loyal employees as many benefits as possible. Either cover the cost of these benefits, or at least make them available to employees and allow them to decide if they can cover the cost themselves. • Provide staff members with a schedule of employee evaluations. Make it clear what is expected of them if they are to receive pay increases. • Create employees and stay and with your a clients tipping to policy. know It exactly is a good what idea is expected. both for your • Put your entire pay plan in writing. • Create incentives by giving your staff opportunities to earn more money, prizes, or tickets to educational events and trade shows. Create salon policies and stick to them. Everyone in the salon should be governed by the same rules, including you! Figure 32–10 What does your dream salon look like? 850 PART 6 — BUSINESS SKILLS Chapter 32 — The Salon Business 32 Did You Know ACTIVITY
  • 20. xviii These features offer important, interesting information related to the content. Often “FYI” boxes direct you to a Web site or other resource for further information. These helpful tips draw attention to situations that might arise and provide quick ways of doing things. Look for these tips in procedures and throughout the text. This feature alerts you to check the laws in your region Here’s aTIP for procedures and practices that are regulated differently from state to state. It is important to contact state boards and provincial regulatory agencies to learn what is allowed and not allowed when you are studying. Your instructor will provide you with contact information. The words you will need to know in a chapter are given at the beginning, in a list of “Key Terms,” and appear in boldface when discussed in the chapter. If the word is diffi cult to pronounce, a phonetic pronunciation appears after it in parentheses. All key terms and all their defi nitions are included in the “Chapter Glossary” at the end of the chapter, as well as in the Glossary/Index at the end of the text. 533 a positive note, UVB rays contribute to the body’s synthesis of Vitamin D and other important minerals. However, the amount of sun exposure necessary for vitamin D synthesis is very minimal, not to mention the fact that you can get vitamin D from fortifi ed milk or orange juice. advise them sun. appropriate that you the exposed to are clients, it is recommendations: when they lotion with a take consultant to precautions your to protective exposure. following or potential As a sun-screen necessary moisturizer about the offering the of wear a Consider on all areas daily basis, SPF 15 • On a at least of • Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 AM and 3 PM. • Sunscreen should be applied at least 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow time for absorption. Many people make the mistake of applying sunscreen after they have been exposed to the heat and sun’s rays for 30 minutes or more. The already inflamed skin is more likely to react to the sunscreen chemicals when applied after sun exposure. • Apply sunscreen liberally after swimming or any activities that result in heavy perspiration. If the skin is exposed to hours of sun, such as during a boat trip or day at the beach, sunscreen should be applied periodically throughout the day as a precaution. • All sunscreen used for protection should be full or broad spectrum to filter out UVA and UVB rays of the sun. Check expiration dates printed on the bottle to make sure that the sunscreen has not expired. • Avoid exposing children younger than 6 months of age to the sun. • If prone to burning frequently and easily, wear a hat and protective clothing when participating in outdoor activities. Redheads and blue-eyed damage. advised to be skin, susceptible to sun should the precautions, clients checkups of detected, particularly dermatology for a mole are above of quickly. are heal blonds following the specializing in or shape does not addition to physician coloration, size, or scrape in lesion In a a regularly see changes or if any especially unexpectedly, bleeds the skin The American Cancer Society recommends using the ABCD Cancer Checklist Home self-examinations can also be an effective way to check for signs of potential skin cancer between scheduled doctor visits. When performing a self-care exam, clients should be advised to check for any changes in existing moles and pay attention to any new visible growths on the skin. SKIN AGING AND THE ENVIRONMENT to help make potential skin cancer easier to recognize. When checking existing moles, look for changes in any of the following: A, asymmetry; B, border; C, color; and D, diameter. Changes to any of these should be examined by a While the sun may play the major role in how the skin ages, changes in the environment also greatly influence this aging process. Pollutants in the air from factories, automobile exhaust, and even secondhand smoke can all influence the appearance and overall health of skin. While these pollutants affect the surface appearance of the skin, they can also change the health of physician. For more information, contact the American Cancer Society at www.cancer.org or (800) Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand (Figure 18-14). Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would the underlying cells and tissues, thereby speeding up the aging process. The best defense against these pollutants is the simplest one: follow a good daily skin-care routine. Routine washing and exfoliating (removing dead surface skin cells) at night helps to remove the buildup of pollutants ACS-2345. F I Y 20 not fi t (Figure 18-15). OTHER PERM RODS Soft bender rods are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape (Figure 18-16). The loop or circle rod is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop (Figure 18-17). END PAPERS End papers or end wraps are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods. End papers should extend beyond the ends of the hair to keep them smooth and straight and prevent “fishhooks.’’ The most common end paper tech-niques are the double flat wrap, single flat wrap, and bookend single paper wrap. • The double flat wrap uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past the hair ends. This wrap provides the most control over the hair ends and also helps keep them evenly distributed over the entire length of the rod (Figure 18-18). • The single flat wrap is similar to the double flat wrap, but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped (Figure 18-19). • The bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. The bookend wrap eliminates excess paper and Dimethyl urea hardeners use dimethyl urea (DMU) and also add cross-links to the natural nail plate, but unlike hardeners containing formal-dehyde, they do not cause adverse skin reactions. These hardeners do not work as quickly as formaldehyde-containing hardeners, but they will not over-harden the nails and are much less likely to cause skin sensitivity. TOP COAT Top co ats are applied over colored polish to prevent chipping and to add a shine to the finished nail. These contain ingredients that create hard shiny films after the solvent has evaporated. Typically the main ingredients are acrylic or cellulose-type film formers. NAIL POLISH DRYERS These products designed to hasten the drying of nail polishes are typically either applied with a dropper, a brush or sprayed on to the surface of the polish. These promote rapid drying by pulling solvents from the nail polish, causing the colored film to form more quickly. These products can dramatically shorten the dry time and will reduce the risk of smudging. HAND CREAM AND LOTION Hand lotion or cream adds a finishing touch to a manicure. Since they soften and smooth the hands, they make the skin and finished manicure look as beautiful as possible. Hand cream helps the skin retain moisture, so hands are less prone to becoming dry or cracked. Hand creams or lotions can be used in conjunction with warming mitts or paraffin dips to speed penetration into the skin. NAIL CONDITIONERS Nail conditioners contain ingredients to reduce brittleness of the nail plate and moisturize the surrounding skin. They should be applied as directed by the manufacturer, but they are especially useful when applied at night before bedtime. BASIC TABLE SETUP It is important that your manicure table is sanitary and properly equipped with implements, materials, and the cosmetic products needed to perform the service. Everything you need during a service should be at your fingertips. Having an orderly table will save you time and give your client more confidence in your abilities. Suggested placement of supplies on the manicuring table appears below. Since regulations regarding table setup vary from state to state, be guided by your instructor. To set up your table, use Procedure 25-1. 666 PART 5 — NAIL CARE Chapter 25 — Nail Care 25 Material safety data sheets, commonly referred to as MSDS, provide valuable safe-handling information about the products, as well as first aid and proper storage information. Salons must carry an MSDS for every professional product in use. They must be kept on file or in a notebook with easy access for staff to use as a reference. The company or distributor from which you order professional products is required by law to provide you with appropriate MSDS. Your instructor can explain the importance of MSDS and how to read them. LAW Learning Objectives After completing this chapter, you will be able to: • Identify the principles of color theory and relate them to haircolor. • Explain level and tone and their role in formulating haircolor. • List the four basic categories of haircolor, explain their chemical effects on the hair, and give examples of their use. • Explain the action of hair lighteners. • Demonstrate application techniques for temporary colors, semipermanent colors, permanent colors, demipermanent colors, and lighteners. • Demonstrate special-effects haircoloring techniques. Key Terms Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used. foil techniques pg. 513 glaze 478 activators pg. 506 aniline derivatives pg. 487 baliage or free-form technique pg. 517 base color pg. 483 cap technique pg. 514 color fillers pg. 499 hair color pg. 480 haircolor pg. 522 complementary colors pg. 485 conditioner fillers pg. 521 contributing pigment pg. 481 demipermanent haircolor pg. 486 developer pg. 488 double-process application pg. 499 filler pg. 521 pg. 480 hair lightening pg. 485 highlighting natural or vegetable haircolors pg. 487 new growth semipermanent haircolor pg. 486 single-process haircoloring pg. 507 off-the-scalp lighteners pg. 505 on-the-scalp lighteners pg. 513 highlighting shampoo pg. 517 law of color pg. 483 level pg. 481 level system pg. 505 oxidation pg. 489 patch test pg. 499 slicing pg. 514 soap cap pg. 494 permanent haircolors pg. 487 prelightening pg. 481 lighteners pg. 488 line of demarcation pg. 499 metallic or gradual haircolors pg. 488 pg. 499 presoftening pg. 520 primary colors pg. 523 special effects haircoloring pg. 513 temporary haircolor pg. 486 tertiary color pg. 484 tone pg. 483 resistant pg. 481 reverse highlighting or lowlighting pg. 513 secondary color pg. 484 pg. 482 toners pg. 489 virgin application pg. 499 volume pg. 488 weaving pg. 514 balance Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. In hairstyling, it signifies the proper degree of CHAPTER GLOSSARY asymmetrical balance Hairstyle design that features unequal proportions designed to balance facial features. bang area/fringe Triangular section that begins at the apex, or high point of the head, and ends at the front corners; fringe. concave profi le Curving inward. contrasting lines Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90-degree angle. 12 height to width. convex profi le Curving outward. curved lines Lines on an angle, used to soften a design. design texture Wave pattern. diagonal lines Lines positioned between horizontal and vertical lines. emphasis or focus The place in a hairstyle where the eye is drawn first before traveling to the rest of the design. form Outline of the overall hairstyle as seen from all angles. harmony Orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines. horizontal lines Lines parallel to the floor or horizon; creates width in design. parallel lines Repeating lines in a hairstyle; may be straight or curved. proportion Harmonious relationship among parts or things, or the comparative relation of one thing to another. profi le Outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view. rhythm Regular, recurrent pattern of movement in a hairstyle. single lines A hairstyle with only one line such as the one-length hairstyle. space Area that the hairstyle occupies; also thought of as the area inside the form. straight profi le Neither convex nor concave. symmetrical balance Hairstyle design that is similar on both sides of the face. transitional lines Usually curved lines that are used to blend and soften horizontal or vertical lines. vertical lines Lines that are straight up and down; creates length and height in hair design. 216 432 PART 3 — HAIR CARE Chapter 18 — Chemical Tex ture Services 18 Figure 18–14 Straight rod and resulting curl. Figure 18–15 Long and short rods and the contours of the head. Here’s aTIPWhen using any wrapping method, slightly dampening the paper before wrapping causes it to cling to the hair, making it much easier to wrap. Figure 18–16 Soft bender rods. Figure 18–17 Loop rods. F Y I LAW Key Terms CHAPTER GLOSSARY
  • 21. xix OT H E R E L E M E N T S Many features from previous editions of Milady’s Standard have been retained in this new edition. At the beginning of each chapter is a list of learning objectives that will tell you what important information you will be expected to know from the chapter. Learning Objectives Some information is so critical for your safety and the safety of your clients that it deserves special attention. The text directs you to this information in the “Caution” boxes found in the margins. Each chapter ends with questions designed to test your understanding of the information in CAUTION it. Your instructor may ask you to write the answers to these questions as an assignment or to answer them orally in class. If you have trouble answering a question, go back to the chapter to review the material and try again. The answers to the “Review Questions” are in your instructor’s Course Management Guide. angle pg. 245 apex pg. 244 bang (fringe) pg. 245 beveling pg. 245 blunt haircut pg. 258 carving pg. 288 clipper-over-comb pg. 292 cross-checking pg. 260 crown pg. 245 cutting line pg. 246 distribution pg. 282 elevation pg. 246 four corners pg. 244 free-hand notching pg. 289 free-hand slicing pg. 289 graduated haircut pg. 258 graduation pg. 246 growth pattern pg. 251 guideline pg. 247 hairline pg. 251 head form pg. 243 interior pg. 247 interior guideline pg. 273 layered haircut pg. 258 layers pg. 258 line pg. 245 long-layered haircut pg. 259 nape pg. 245 notching pg. 287 over-direction pg. 248 palm-to-palm pg. 257 parietal ridge pg. 243 part/parting pg. 246 perimeter pg. 247 point cutting pg. 286 razor-over-comb pg. 290 razor rotation pg. 290 reference points pg. 243 sections pg. 246 scissor-over-comb (shear-over-comb) pg. 285 slicing pg. 288 slide cutting pg. 285 slithering (effilating) pg. 288 stationary guideline pg. 247 subsections pg. 246 tapers pg. 292 tension pg. 255 texturizing pg. 286 traveling guideline pg. 247 uniform layers pg. 273 weight line pg. 258 Key Terms Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used. Learning Objectives After completing this chapter, you will be able to: • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Demonstrate the safe and proper use of the various tools of haircutting. • Demonstrate mastery of the four basic haircuts. • Demonstrate mastery of other haircutting techniques. 242 CAUTION As a cosmetology student, you should always receive hands-on training from your instructor before attempting any of the procedures discussed in this chapter. 563 G ood skin care can make a big difference in the way skin looks, and the way the client feels about his or her appearance. Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments can offer many improvements to the appearance of the skin. Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier, dry skin look and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look smoother, firmer, and less wrinkled. A combination of good salon facial treatments and helping the client plan an effective home care program individualized for their skin will show visible results. It is extremely rewarding to be able to help people relax, improve their appearance, and feel better about themselves (Figure 22-1). SKIN ANALYSIS AND CONSULTATION Skin analysis is a very important part of the facial treatment because it determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin, and what type of treatment the client’s skin needs. Consultation allows you the opportunity to ask the client questions about his or her health, skin care history, and to advise the client about appropriate home care products and treatments. HEALTH SCREENING Before beginning the analysis, you must have the client fill out a health-screening waxing, the questionnaire main purpose (Figure of the 22-health-2). screening Similar to the form form is used to determine for any contraindications the client might have that might indicate avoiding certain types of treatment on that particular client’s skin. A contraindication is a condition the client has, or a treatment the client is undergoing, that might cause a negative side effect during the facial treatment. For example, if the client is allergic to fragrance, using a fragranced product would be contraindicated. If a client is using a prescription drug, such as Retin-A® or Tazorac® (both topical drugs that cause skin exfoliation), using other exfoliants in the facial treatment is contraindicated. Accutane, an oral medication for cystic acne, causes thinning of the skin all over the body. Waxing, stimulating treatments, or exfoliation procedures should never be performed on the skin of someone using Accutane, or someone who has used the drug in the last 6 months. Because Accutane is an oral drug, it stays in the body for several months after the client stops using the drug. Figure 22–1 A facial is a soothing, pleasurable experience for the client. 22 16 394 REVIEW QUESTIONS CHAPTER GLOSSARY cornrows or canerows Narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to the scalp; created with a three-strand, on-the-scalp braid technique. fi shtail braid Simple over two-each strand other. braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they are crossed invisible or inverted braid locks or Three-dreadlocks strand braid Natural produced by textured overlapping hair that the is intertwined strands of hair and on meshed top of each together other. to form a single or separate network of hair. natural hairstyling Hairstyling that uses no chemicals or tints and does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern of the hair. rope braid Braid made with two strands that are twisted around each other. single braids Free-hanging braids, with or without extensions, that can be executed either underhand or overhand; also called visible braid individual or Three-box braids. strand. strand braid made by the underhand technique, in which the strands of hair are woven under the center 1. What is meant by “natural hairstyling’’? 2. In the context of braiding, what are the three qualities that determine hair texture? 3. What is a coil? 4. What six materials are most commonly used for hair extensions? 5. Why does textured (extremely curly or coiled) hair require special preparation before braiding? 6. What is the difference between a visible and invisible braiding style? 7. Describe rope and fishtail braids. 8. Explain the basic procedure for creating single braids. 9. Explain the methods of cornrowing with and without extensions. 10. Name the three basic methods of hair locking. REVIEW QUESTIONS
  • 22. xx All step-by-step procedures offer clear, easy-to-understand directions and multiple photographs for learning the techniques. Step-by-step instructions occur in Parts 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the text. A list of the needed implements and materials appears at the start, along with any preparation that must be completed before the procedure, and the fi nished result appears at the end. Clear, precise instructions make following the procedure easy. Specifi c steps for cleanup and sanitation appear at the end of the procedure. PROCEDURE 14-2 GRADUATED HAIRCUT IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS See list of implements and materials in “Blunt Haircut’’ procedure. PREPARATION Follow preparation steps in “Blunt Haircut’’ procedure. PROCEDURE 1. Part the hair. Part the hair into six sections. Begin with a part from the front hairline just above the middle of each eyebrow back to the crown area, and clip the hair in place (Figure 14-98). Establish another part from the crown area where section one ends to the back of each ear, forming side sections two and three (Figure 14-99). Clip these sections in place. Part the hair down the center of the back to form sections four and five (Figure 14-100). Take a horizontal part from one ear to the other across the nape area about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) above the hairline. This section (six) is your horizontal guide section (Figure 14-101). 2. Create guideline. Establish your guideline by first cutting the center of the nape section to the desired 14 Figure 14–104 Measure off first horizontal section with comb. Figure 14–105 Comb first vertical subsection. Figure 14–106 Cut first vertical subsection. Figure 14–107 Create first vertical subsection in new section. Figure 14–108 Cut subsection. 269 14 length. Use a horizontal cutting line parallel to the fingers (Figure 14-102). Cut the right and left sides of the nape section the same length as the center guideline (Figure 14-103). 3. Measure and part off first section. Working upward in the left back section, measure and part off the first horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide (Figure 14-104). 4. Create vertical subsection. Beginning at the center part, establish a vertical subsection approximately 1⁄2 inch (1.25 centimeters) wide. Extend the subsection down to include the nape guideline. Comb the subsection smooth at a 45- degree angle to the scalp (Figure 14-105). Hold your fingers at a 90-degree angle to the strand and cut (Figure 14-106). 5. Cut horizontal section. Proceed to cut the entire horizontal section by parting off vertical subsections and cutting in the same manner as Step 4. Check each section vertically and horizontally throughout the haircut. Each completed section will serve as a guideline for the next section. 6. Part off. Part off another horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide. Beginning at the center, create another vertical subsection that extends down and includes the previously cut strands (Figure 14-107). Comb the hair smoothly at a 45-degree elevation to the head. Hold the fingers and shears at a 90-degree angle to the subsection and cut (Figure 14-108). Cut the entire horizontal section this way. Make sure the second section blends evenly with the previously cut section. Figure 14–98 Part off section 1. Figure 14–99 Form sections 2 and 3. Figure 14–100 Form sections 4 and 5. Figure 14–101 Horizontal guide. Figure 14–102 Cut the center nape section (guideline). Figure 14–103 Finish cutting nape section.
  • 23. xxi E X T E N S I V E L E A R N I N G / T E A C H I N G PAC K AG E While Milady’s Standard Cosmetology is the center of the curriculum, students and educators have a wide range of supplements from which to choose. All supplements have been revised and updated to complement the new edition of the textbook. STUDENT SUPPLEMENTS In addition to the textbook, Milady has created many supplements to meet every student’s needs. All supplements have been revised, including the following: Milady’s Standard Cosmetology Study Guide The Study Guide is a colorful new study guide to help students recognize, understand, and retain the key concepts presented in each chapter of Milady’s Standard Cosmetology. The student-led exercises require minimal educator assistance. The Essential Companion provides six easy-to-follow features for each chapter—Essential Objectives, Essential Subjects, Essential Concepts, Essential Review, and Essential Discoveries and Accomplishments. Each one presents the key content in a different manner to help all students comprehend and remember it. A great new feature added to this edition is rubrics to be used as self-assessment by students. The attractive color design will engage all types of students so they can learn the important theory and practical aspects necessary for licensure and professional success. Answers are supplied in your instructor’s Course Management Guide. Milady’s Situational Problems for Cosmetology Students Situational Problems for Cosmetology Students tests students’ knowledge of how they should apply the information they have learned to real-life situations. This text asks that they apply that knowledge to situations that more closely reflect what they are likely to encounter as a salon employee, demonstrating that they know how to use the information they have learned. The questions are more complex than Exam Review questions, often describing a salon stylist or other professional who has a client with a combination of conditions, problems, or attitudes. The student will have to take desired results, both from a technical and a communication perspective. Answers are included in the back of the book.