This document discusses herbal fairness creams. It begins by explaining that fairness is often associated with attractiveness in many cultures. It then discusses natural and synthetic ingredients commonly used in fairness creams to lighten skin by inhibiting melanin production, such as licorice, saffron, hydroquinone, and kojic acid. The document provides details on how these creams are formulated and evaluated. It concludes by listing several popular herbal fairness cream brands marketed in India.

1. HERBAL FAIRNESS
CREAM
PREPARED BY –
ZULI SHINGALA
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2. FAIR AND BEAUTIFUL ??
(EQUAL OR NOT )
 Fairness is considered equal to attractiveness by majority of
the populace.
 Advertisements stating - wanted Fair, Slim and Beautiful
Bride ?
 Making the not so fair person feel that they have to do
something to become fair skinned person.
 Or they lose the chance of finding a suitable groom. This
Psychology has become the trading point of the Fairness
Cream Industry.
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3. SKIN WHITENING / LIGHTENING /
FAIRNESS PRODUCTS
 Skin lightening products refers to the practice of using
substances for lighten skin tone or provide an even skin
complexion by inhibiting the concentration of melanin.
 The colour of the skin may have a major impact on an
individual’s psychological profile.
 There are products available to treat both hypo and hyper
pigmentation.
 India, being a tropical country has predominantly dark-
skinned people.
 Products to enhance “skin fairness” are available as
cosmetic creams in the market and these are advertised
widely.
 Most products are aimed at young women.
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4.  These are usually in the form of creams or gels or lotions.
 WHAT DOES THE FAIRNESS PRODUCTS DO?
 Inhibit the formation of melanin.
 Reduces pigmentation.
 BY-
 destroying Melanocytes.
 Inhibit Tyrosinase activity, thus inhibit the production of
Melanin.
 Affecting the Formation of Tyrosinase.
 When a product claims that its use will result in making the
skin fair, it implies that using it will actually decrease the
natural skin coloration of an individual.
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5. HERBAL / NATURAL INGREDIENTS –
EXTRACTS:
 Licorice
 Saffron
 Aloevera
 Manjistha
 Turmeric
 Cucumber
 Papaya
 Lemon
 Rose
 Tulsi
 Milk
 Sandalwood
 Besan
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6. SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS THAT HELP IN SKIN
LIGHTENING
 Tretinoin
 Hydroquinone:
 Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production,
can disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin.
 Banned in some countries (e.g. France- from 2001)
because of fears of a cancer risk. Hydroquinone has been
shown to cause leukemia in mice and other animals.
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7.  Arbutin :
 Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent (alpha-
arbutin, beta-arbutin, and deoxy-arbutin).
 Beta-Arbutin is also known by its more common name of
Bearberry extract.
 Derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry
blueberry shrubs, and is also present in most types of
It can have melanin-inhibiting properties.
 considered safe alternatives to commonly used de-
pigmenting agents to make the skin fairer.
 There are patents controlling its use for skin lightening.
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8.  Kojic acid :
 Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of
malting rice for use in the manufacturing of Sake, the
Japanese rice wine.
 Kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic
formulations.
 Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and
its efficacy.
 Many cosmetic companies use Kojic di-palmitate as an
alternative because it is more stable in formulations. some
controversial research has suggested that Kojic acid may
have carcinogenic properties in large doses.
 It can cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation.
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9.  Azelaic acid :
 Azelaic acid is a component of grains, such as wheat, rye,
and barley.
 It is applied topically in a cream formulation at a 10-20%
concentration.
 Azelaic acid is used to treat acne, but there also is research
showing it to be effective for skin discolorations.
 Vitamin C :
 Vitamin C are considered an effective antioxidant for the
skin and they help to lighten skin.
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10.  Alpha hydroxy acids :
 Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - primarily in the form of lactic
acid and glycolic acid - are the most researched forms of
AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows
effective penetration into the top layers of skin.
 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin
production and will not lighten skin discolorations in that
manner.
 Their benefit is in helping removing unhealthy or abnormal
layers of skin cells (exfoliation) where hyper pigmented
cells can accumulate.
 Alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or
greater) may remove skin discolorations. Only a qualified
physician should perform these types of facial peels.
 Niacinamide :
 Niacinamide is much safer alternative for skin whitening.
Niacinamide has no adverse side-effects. It promotes acne
reduction, and reduces fine wrinkles.
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11.  Major Constituents of Fairness Cream:
 usually a solid or semi-solid emulsion.
 Oil phase ingredients – base as stearic acid (in most of the
cases), liquid paraffin,cetostearyl alcohol
 Water based ingredients –glycerin,triethanolamine
 Emulsifiers – stearic acid
 Sesquersting agents – Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
 Fairness actives – Synthetic and Natural/herbals
 Preservatives – To preserve the formulations from
microbial attacks and contaminations- methyl and propyl
paraben
 Colouring and Perfumery agents – To keep the
formulation aesthetically appealing and pleasant.
 Other special ingredients –UV protective agents,Anti-
oxidants,Vitamins etc.
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12. preparation
 Generally fairness creams are oil in water (O/W) emulsion
based creams.
 Emulsifier and other oil soluble components (cetyl alcohol,
almond oil) dissolved in oil phase.
 The preservatives and other water soluble components
(methyl paraben, propyl paraben, propylene glycol, and all
herbal extracts) dissolved in the aqueous phase.
 Heat both phase at 75 ˚C.
 After heating, add aqueous phase into oil phase with
continuous stirring.
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13.  What should be the desired qualities of Fairness Cream?
 Pleasant odour and colour
 Must be aesthetically appealing
 Easy to spread, and provide a pleasant feeling during
application
 Easy penetration
 Should be non-oily / non-greasy after application
 Impart skin lightening
 Improve complexion
 Render moisturization
 Impart hydration
 Render nourishment
 Well tolerance
 Non-allergenic
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14. EVALUATION PARAMETERS
 1. pH of cream
 2. viscosity
 3. dye test :
 The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream.
 Place a drop on a microscopic slide, cover it and examine.
 O/W types of creams shows – disperse globules red over
colourless background.
 4. homogeneity
 5. appearance
 6. washability / removal of cream
 7. Acid value
 8. saponification value
 9. irritancy test
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15. MARKETED PRODUCTS
 1. FAIR AND LOVELY AYURVEDIC CARE
 Kumkumadi oil – skin lightening remedies for dull and dark
complexion.
 Chandan, manjishtha, milk, kesa, wheat germ oil.
 It also provides protection from UV rays.
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16. 2. VICCO TURMERIC SKIN CREAM
 Ingredients :
 Combination of turmeric and sandalwood oil.
 It heals and prevents acne, pimples and blemishes.
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17. 3. Himalaya hebals natural glow kesar face cream
 Contains alfalfa, vitamin E, vitamin B3 and saffron
 Inhibits melanin synthesis
 Saffron helps lighren skin tone and brightens a dull
complexion.
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18. 4. Patanjali saundarya swarn kanti fairness cream
 Contains an advanced blend of purified gold along with a
natural oils, herbs, vitamins and fruit extracts.
 5. roop mantra ayurvedic medicinal cream
 Contains 12 medicinal herbs and fruits includind aloe vera,
apple, carrot, almond, grapes, mulethi, neem and
chandan.
 That makes skin look fair and gives natural glow to skin.
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19. 6. VLCC white and bright glow creme
 Paraben free formula
 Contains carrot seed dry powder extract, aloe vera, grape
extract, liquorice extract and mulberry extract, saffron,
turmeric, cucumber extract and olive oil.
 Brightens the dull and dark skin
 Reduces the appearance of marks, blemishes and
pigmentation.
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20.  REFERENCES
 Fairness cream – consumers association of India
 (www.caiindia.com)
 Natural fairness creams to achieve fair and flawlwss skin
from beautyglimpse.com
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