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11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
T h e w r i t i n g s o n t h e s t o n e s o f K h a n d a g i r i C a v e i n
Or i s s a s u g g e s t t h a t t h e a r t o f we a v i n g wa s i n Or i s s a
b e f o r e 600 B .C .
S i mi l a r l y s o me c a r v i n g i n t h e t e mp l e s o f S o n e p u r
d i s t r i c t (B a i d y a n a t h t e m p l e ) i n d i c a t e s t h a t w e a v i n g
w a s i n e x i s t e n c e i n t h e a r e a d u r i n g p r i o r t o 9t h A .D .
Be s i d e s we a v i n g wi t h c o t t o n y a r n , t h e r e wa s a l s o
w e a n d ln o o w i it s tWi e d o s tl k m p a s s a rn ), Wor oa l d ia tn id o t n ha el f i i n bd eu r s st r y
H a v i      g m       h    h l mSi         i (T o r t a t t
o f     r i s s a         t       L o u s .
f r oom s t e m . oTf h e hHea n d lt o o m I n d u s t r y i s f a m o u s f o r i t s
e x c e l l e n t a r t i s t i c a n d s u p e r i o r c r a f t s ma n s h i p . T h e
h a n d l o o m f a b r i c s o f Od i s h a wi t h e x q u i s i t e
c r a f t s ma n s h i p a n d c o l o r c o mb i n a t i o n w i t h t r a d i t i o n a l
design and motifs have established a pride of place in the domestic as well as international market. , i t h a s
a r i c h t r a d i t i o n o f p r o d u c i n g h a n d l o o m p r o d u c t s . Ev e n
t h e s k i l l a n d k n o w l e d g e i mb i b e d o v e r t h e
g e n e r a t i o n , h a s g i v e n t h e O d i s h a hand woven textiles an unparalleled
depth, range, strength and vigor.




    11/3/2012                     Aayush juyal
O r i s s a „s T e x t i l e s h a v e a c l o s e r e l a t i o n w i t h
t h e J a g a n n a t h c u l t u r e . T h e r i c h t e mp l e
a r c h i t e c t u r a l c u l t u r e a n d s t y l e wi t h h e a v y
d e s i g n s a n d v i v i d c o l o r s u s i n g f i n e f a b r i c
t h r e a d i s t h e t e s t i mo n y o f t h e s u p e r i o r
c r a f t s ma n s h i p o f O r i s s a . O r i g i n a l l y , t h e f o u r
b a s i c c o l o r s , wh i c h a r e f o u n d o n J a g a n n a t h —
b l a c k , wh i t e , r e d a n d y e l l o w — we r e e x t e n s i v e l y
u s e d i n O r i y a g a r me n t s . E v e n mo t i f s s u c h a s t h e
t e mp l e b o r d e r , l o t u s , s h a n k h a n d w h e e l , s i g n i f y
t h e a f f i n i t y wi t h t h e r e i g n i n g d e i t y .
T h e t r a d i t i o n a l Or i s s a we a v i n g h a v e u n d e r g o n e
v a s t c h a n g e s a s we a v e r s t r y t o a d a p t t h e d e s i g n s
t o p o p u l a r t a s t e .




T h e p e c u l i a r h a n d -w o v e n t e x t i l e s o f O r i s s a
i n u n u s u a l d e s i g n s , g o r g e o u s p a t t e r n s a n d
v i 11/3/2012a n t c o l o Aayush s h a v e s u p p o r t e d a t h r i v i n g
      b r                  u r juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
I k a t o r t i e a n d d y e f a b r i c s , k n o w n a s
"b a n d h a s " i n O r i s s a a r e r e c o g n i z e d a l l o v e r
t h e c o u n t r y a n d a b r o a d f o r t h e i r h i g h l y
a r t i s t i c d e s i g n s , c o l o r c o mb i n a t i o n s a n d
d u r a b i l i t y .
 I k a t i s a t y p e o f we a v i n g i n g e n e r a l
t e r ms . T h e w e f t o r t h e w a r p o r b o t h a r e t i e -
d y e d b e f o r e we a v i n g t o c r e a t e d e s i g n s o n
f a b r i c i n t h i s m e t h o d . Wi t h e x q u i s i t e
c o l o r s a n d b e a u t i f u l mo t i f s , I k a t s a r i s
a r e c o n s i d e r e d a s a ma g n u m o p u s b e c a u s e
e a c h s a r i t a k e s n e a r l y s e v e n mo n t h s o f
c r a f t s ma n s h i p . T h e t r a d i t i o n a l I k a t s a r i s
o f Or i s s a a r e a l s o r e f e r r e d t o a s d o u b l e
P a t a n P a t o l a o r s a mb a l p u r i s a r e e s .
T h e O r i s s a n s t y l e o f i k a t (b a n d h a ) h a s a
l o n g t r a d i t i o n d a t i n g b a c k a t l e a s t t o t h e
12t h c e n t u r y . We a v e r s m i g r a t e d f r o m t h e
Pa t a n a r e a b r i n g i n g t h e b a s i c t e c h n i q u e s
w h i c h t h e n d e v e l o p e d o v e r t i me t o a u n i q u e
s t y l e o f f l o wi n g d e s i g n s . T h e r e s i s t t y i n g
i s d o n e f i n e l y o n t h r e a d u n i t s g i v i n g
g r e a t e r d e t a i l a n d f i n e c u r v e s .
T y p i c a l d e s i g n m o t i f s i n c l u d e r o w s o f
b i r d s a n d a n i ma l s , f i s h , s e a s h e l l s ,
   11/3/2012          Aayush juyal
Th    e    wa r p , we f
                      t o r b o t h
a r   e    t i e -d y e d
                      b e f o r e
we    a   v i n g t o c
                     r e a t e
d e   s   i g n s o n t
                     h e f i n i s h e d
f a   b   r i c .              Gr e a t c a r e i s t o b e t a k e n
                               i n t y i n g r e s i s t e d a r e a s
                               wi t h wa t e r r e p e l l e n t
                               m a t e r i a l (s u c h a s b i c y c l e
                               i n n e r t u b e s c u t i n t o
                               s t r i p s ). T h e p r e c i s i o n o f
Af t e r wr a p p i n g , t h e t h r e a d s
                               t h e w r a p p i n g d e t e r mi n e s
a r e d y e d . Wh e n f i n i s h e d a n d
                               t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e d e s i g n
u n wr a p p e d , t h e a r e a s u n d e r
t h e t i e s h a v e s t a y e d t h e
o r i g i n a l c o l o u r . N u me r o u s
c o l o u r s c a n b e a d d e d a f t e r
a d d i t i o n a l wr a p p i n g s .
D e s i g n s g e n e r a l l y a r Ger e a t c a r e m u s t b e
w o r k e d o u t o n g r a p h pt aa pk ee r n i n p u t t i n g t h e
b e f o r e d y e i n g                 wa r p o n t h e
                                        l o o m, k e e p i n g a l l t h e
                                        t h r e a d s i n p o s i t i o n
   11/3/2012          Aayush juyal      i s n e c e s s a r y f o r t h e
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Th e p r o c e s s o f
                                       t i e & d y e i s a
                                       v e r y t e d i o u s
                                       a n d t i me
                                       c o n s u mi n g t a s k
                                       a n d r e q u i r e s
                                       g r e a t a mo u n t
                                       o f p a t i e n c e
                                       a n d p r e c i s i o n .
                                        Th e f i b e r h a v e
                                       t o b e p l a c e d
I   k a t o f                          p r o p e r l y i n
o   r i s s a i s                      a l i g n me n t i n
a   n e x a mp l e                     o r d e r t o
o   f                                  a c h i e v e t h e
e   x q u i s i t e                    d e s i r e d
c   r a f t ma n s h                   Pa t t e r n o r
i   p i n                              d e s i g n
c   o mb i n a t i o
n     wi t h
t   r a d i t i o n a
l     d e s i g n s
      11/3/2012         Aayush juyal
As t h e f a b r i c i s
                             wo v e n , t h e p a t t e r n
                             e me r g e s .
                             Gr e a t c a r e i s t a k e n
                             i n a l i g n i n g t h e
                             y a r n s s o t h a t t h e
                             p a t t e r n a p p e a r s
                             c l e a r l y h o w e v e r ma n y
                             a t i me s t h e y a r n s d o
                             n o t c o mp l e t e l y f a l l
                             i n s y n c ,g i v i n g a
                           Tdh ee l ji a g g e d l l o o k g e d
                                          g h t f u         j a g
                           ,a c h i k e tv h a t w b e s t to h e
                             l o o            e d        h e n      ws
                           y I a kr an t s w or r e k a sr or m en g e d i t 's
                                            a                 a    o f
                                          m.
                           wci ht ah r n o t t o o
                           p r e c i s e n e s s , g i v e t h e
                           f a b r i c s a g e n u i n e
                           e t h n i c f e e l .
                             Ho we v e r , wh e n
                             a b s o l u t e p r e c i s e n e s s
                             i s r e q u i r e d t h e
                             w e a v e r ma y a l s o
                             ma n u a l l y p u l l t h e
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal     y a r n s t o ma k e t h e m
I k a t h a s
                                                     u n d e r g o n e ma n y
                                                     c h a n g e s wi t h
                                                     t i me . A l t o u g h
                                                     i n n o v a t i o n h a s
                                                     b r o u g h t
                                                     e v o l u t i o n s i n
                                                     t h i s a r t f o r m ,
                                                     Or i s s a s t i l l
                                                     u p h o l d s t h e
                                                     p u r i t y o f i t s
                                                     t r a d i t i o n a l
                                                     f l a i r , wh i c h c a n
                                                     b e s e e n i n t h e
Sonia gandhi wearing a sambalpuri saree
                                                     g a r me n t s w o v e n
                                                     h e r e .
                                                      Sa r e e b e i n g t h e
 11/3/2012                            Aayush juyal   t r a d i t i o n a l
Th e t r a d i t i o n a l i k a t
                           d e s i g n i s a n
                           i n t e g r a t i o n o f
                           c o n v e n t i o n a l mo t i f s
                           l i k e Sh a n k h a ( Co n c h
                           S h e l l s ), C h a k r a ( Wh e e l ),
                           P h u l a ( f l o w e r s ), m i n a (
                           f i s h ) a n d o t h e r
                           w i l d l i f e a n i ma l s l i k e
                           e l e p h a n t s ,d e e r s ,
                           p e a c o c k s e t c . Th I k a t s
                           i n O r i s s a are d y e d u s i n g
                           e c o -f r i e n d l y c o l o r s
                           e x t r a c t e d f r o m p l a n t s ,
                           f l o we r s , l e a v e s a n d
                           b a r k s o f t r e e s . Bu t t h e
                           i n c r e a s i n g d e ma n d o f
                           t h e I k a t ma t e r i a l s i s
                           f o r c i n g t h e we a v e r s t o
                           u s e c h e mi c a l d y e s .
                           A c c l a i me d I n t e r n a t i o n a l
                           C a se hm i o c adl e s i y gen d rI sk la i t kse
                           f
                             h       i    n
                                                  d          e
                           c s cs at r l d e sl sa tR h n tn a t h e s i o n i ,
                           O o             e           e a       ,M i s
                           n h a nuer B al r n e se d l o n e w i . t h
                           J a t         a      d y     a o n g s
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal   a c c l aayi ,mi e td sn a t oi t o n a l s t
                           To d                     n          j u
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Pa      s a p a l l i i s o n e o f         t h e
                           v a     r i a t i o n s o f
                           s a     mb a l p u r i s a r e e s .
                           Pa      s a p a l l i s a r i i s a
                           h a     n d wo v e n s a r i
                           g e     n e r a l l y ma d e o f s        i l k
                           f a     b r i c a n d h a s a
                           b e     a u t i f u l a n d
                           e x     c l u s i v e ` a a n c h a l      `.
                           Pa      s a p a l l i s a r i i s
                           wo      v e n ma i n l y i n p l a         c e s
                           l i     k e So n e p u r , Ba r p a       l i
                           a n     d Ba u n s h r i .

                           T   h   e    s p e c i a l t y o f t h e
                           s   a   r   i i s , i t h a s c h e s s
                           b   o   a   r d l i k e p a t t e r n s i n
                           t   h   e    e n t i r e b o d y wi t h
                           c   h   a   r a c t e r i s t i c wh i t e
                           a   n   d    b l a c k /r e d s q u a r e s .

                           Th e         s a r i i    s n o r ma l l y
                           ma d        e f r o m
                           c o t       t o n , t a   s s a r , mu l b e r r
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
                           y s i        l k a n d     mu l b e r r y
                           s i l       k a n d t     a s s a r
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
B o m k a i is a t r a d i t i o n a l e x t r a w e f t
            t e c h n i q u e f r o m Or i s s a wo v e n o n a
            p i t l o o m . T h e v i l l a g e o f B o m k a i lends
            its name to the b o m k a i s a r i .B o m k a i saris
            combine b a n d h a (a n o t h e r t e r m f o r
            i k a t ) and s u p p l e m e n t a r y
            t The rb e a d w o r sari ,wcaasl t r a d i t i o n a l l y
                h    o mk a i       k         l e d
                 o r                   h -c a s
            kwa p t n a b j y a h ia gwhich r e ft e r B r ta o m i h ne s d o b b y
                                l                       s     h t
            m e cr h a n i rs imt (j a ll s ) n d c e r e m o n i e s
              d u i n g               u a a a
              ma k i n g e a c h p i e c e a n e x c l u s i v e
              o n e . T h e we a v e r s c r e a t e b r i g h t l y
              colored panels with extra weft motifs on a contrasting background.
              The motifs are freely composed, commonly
              including k a r e l a (bitter
              gourd), the a t a s i flower, the k a n t h i p h u l (small
              flower), m a c c h i (fish), r u i m a c c h i (carp-
            T r a k o it n c h a l(tortoise), e g e t a b l o t d ys e), m a y
              fish), d i     i o n a l y , v p a d m a (l e u                s
            w e ra e u s e d : m c h a r a il a n i fr o r) b l a c k ,
              u r     (peacock), and y r o b a       (b       d
            t u r m e r i c f o r y e l l o w , l a c for dark red or
            maroon, g i r m a t i (o c h r e t r e a t e d w i t h
            g h e e ) f o r l i g h t r e d , a n d a c a c i a
11/3/2012   s k i Aayush f o r c h r o m e o r a n g e .
                     n juyal
Once the dyed yarn is
fitted in, the pattern is
worked using extra weft
                                Th      e t e c h n i q u e i s i n i t s e l f a
technique. This gives a
saree an almost woven,          f u     r t h e r i n g o f t h e t i e a n d d y e
carpet like effect.The          t e     c h n i q u e . To u c h e s o f I k k a t
Bomkai design both the          wo      r k c a n e a s i l y b e
warp and weft is dyed           f o     u n d , h o we v e r , I n c a s e o f
according to the                Bo      mk a i , t h e y a r n i s t i e d y e d
requirement. For border         b u     t t h e f o c u s i s n o t o n
design, warp alone is           p a
                              Us i      n g ear t is m eh c o n seum ei r ngge o u t o f
                                        t t        n     w i c h        m
processed, while for
Palavas and anchal of
                                t y
                              we a      v i n ga t e cdhynei i qnuge. It th e s h rs e a d s
                                        i n g       n d                       i t u e d
sarees, weft is processed       t o
                              a r e       g u t t n d c h e n r r aest t i e d l t oou r s
                                          c e      a h e t o n t             c o
and overall saree designs,    d i f
                                  n     f t ehr ee s a r ceoel . o r e d y a r n s t o
                                                   n t
both the warp and weft are    c r e     a t e t h e u n u s u a l l y l a r g e
processed.                    p a l     l u . Th i s t e c h n i q u e i s
                              l o c     a l l y c a l l e d m u h a j o r h i (o r
                              p a l     l u wi t h j o i n e d t h r e a d s )




    11/3/2012                Aayush juyal
T h e b o mk a i s a r e e s ,
                           a r e mo r e
                           p o p u l a r l y k n o w a s
                           s o n e p u r i s a r e e s ,
                           a n d a r e p r o d u c e d
                           b y t h e “B h u l i a ”
                           community of S u b a r n a p u r
                           d i s t r i c t of Orissa

                           T   h e So n e p u r i
                           p   a a t a s a n d s i l k
                           s   a r e e s a r e
                           p   o p u l a r   i t e ms
                           d   i s p l a y e d a t
                           v   a r i o u s f a s h i o n
                           s   h o w s a n d ma n y
                           d   e s i g n e r s a r e n o w
                           i   n c l u d i n g b o mk a i
                           i   n t h e i r
                           c   o l l e c t i o n s , wi t h
                           e   a c h o n e
                           s   h o wc a s i n g h i s
                           o   w n c o n t e mp o r a r y
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal   v   e r s i o n o f b o mk a i .
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Ap    p l i q u e ', i s a F r e n c h
                                     t e   r m t h a t r e f e r s t o
                                     a n    a r t f o r m o f
                                     s u   p e r i mp o s i n g
                                     p a   t c h e s o f c o l o r e d
                                     f a   b r i c s o n a p i e c e o f
                                     b a   s i c f a b r i c /c l o t h
                                     t o    g i v e i t a n
                                     a l   t o g e t h e r a n e w
                                     l o   o k .




            Th o u g h t h i s f o r m o f a r t i s n o t
            u n k n o wn i n o t h e r p a r t s o f
            I n d i a , i t i s Or i s s a a n d e s p e c i a l l y
            i n Pi p l i t h a t t h e c r a f t h a s a
            l i v i n g a n d a c t i v e t r a d i t i o n
            c o n t i n u i n g o v e r c e n t u r i e s .
            I n f a c t a p p l i q u e works are a vivid expression
            of O r i s s a C r a f t s . It is generally accepted that appliqué
            w o r k s o f O r i s s a date b a c k t o m o r e
11/3/2012   t h a Aayush juyal y e a r s . T h e p r o c e s s o f
                   n 850
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
The appliqué c r a f t i s o n e o f t h e
                                mo s t p o p u l a r t r a d i t i o n a l
                                n e e d l e wo r k s f r o m t h e p i p l i
                                v i l l a g e o f P u r i district of Orissa. As the
                                tradition of making appliqué w o r k i s
                                l o c a t e d i n Pi p l i i t i s c a l l e d
O n e o f t h e mo s t i mp o r t a n t c o t t a g e
                                a s p i p l i c r a f t a n d l o c a l l y i t
i n d u s t r i e s e n c o u r a g e d b y t e mp l e
                                i s k n o wn a s Ch a n d u a
r i t u a l s wa s t h e c r e a t i o n o f a p p l i q u e
wo r k A p p l i q u e i n Or i s s a i s a n o l d
t e mp l e a r t , w h i c h h a s b e e n r e f i n e d t o
p e r f e c t i o n . A f i n e e x a mp l e o f t h e c r a f t
i s t h e e n o r mo u s a p p l i q u e c a n o p i e s
a b o v e t h e r e i g n i n g d e i t y o f Pu r i , L o r d
J a g a n n a t h r . a d i e t p o p u ll a ry a n f d o tr rma o f i th ia o n i c r a f t
                T      Th       i o n a l         a               d          n d
d e c o r a t e d saer dt i c l m asn u f a c t ausr C h a ngdaur am e n t s a n d
                u           i n     e     s u c h          i n g
(r e c t a n g uCl haar r a c t e r i s t t i r ca s a o(h e aar nt d f e e l
                          c a n o p y ),            l o k s
s h a p e d wi t h wo o d e n s t a n d ) a n d Ch a t t i
(u m b r e l l a ) w e r e u s e d f o r t h e p u r p o s e o f
t e mp l e r i t u a l s i n c l u d i n g o t h e r
t a i l o r e d a r t i c l e s .


    11/3/2012             Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
“D o n g o r ” m e a n s
              h i l l , “K o n d h ”, means “inhabitant”. O n e
              wh o i n h a b i t s t h e h i l l s i n
              R a y a g a d a d i s t r i c t of O r i s s a a r e
              t h e D o n g o r i a K o n d h s . This tribe has a
              rich culture of art, dance and music over the last few
              centuries. The most eye-catching of
              the h a n d i c r a f t s are the colorful unique
              embroidery shawls. T h e s e a r e a l s o
              k n o w n a s “K a p a d a G o n d a ” (m a i n
              c l o t h ) a n d s i g n i f y a n
              i mp o r t a n t s i g n a t u r e i n t h e i r
              T h e st or naadl i i t t i yo n nodf dm aeksi sn g s h a w l
              p e r                          a        r
              i s p r a c t i c e d i n t h e v i l l a g e s
              o f
              Kh a j u r i , Hu n d i j a l i , Ku r l i , Ka d r
              a k u ma a n d o t h e r s u r r o u n d i n g
              v i l l a g e s .
              Th e d e s i g n a n d p a t t e r n s a r e
              n o t t r a c e d o r d r a wn ; t h e y c o u n t
              t h e t h r e a d s i n o r d e r t o
11/3/2012
              c o n s t r u c t t h e s y mme t r i c a l
            Aayush juyal
These natural colored shawls are generally woven
                                       by young girls for themselves, their brothers or
                                       family members. The colors of
                                       the e m b r o i d e r y t h r e a d s are
                                       vibrant vegetable colors like red, g r e e n
                                       o r yellow. These dyes are extracted from
                                       juices of leaves, roots and turmeric.


 It g e n e r a l l y a k e s 3 to 4
months to c o m p l e t e
o n e shawl. T t h e girls do t h e
w e a v i n g and embroidery while they
tend the crops or look after the
cattle. While o l d e r m e n sport
simple motifs on their shawls, the young
ones wears an artistic piece.
                                           A beautifully embroidered shawl is the
                                           cynosure of all eyes in a
                                           marketplace. T h e s e s h a w l s
                                           s e l l i n t h e
                                           ma r k e t p l a c e a t
   11/3/2012            Aayush juyal
                                           p r i c e s r a n g i n g
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Th e
d y e i n g
p r o c e s
s i s            T h e t r i b a l we a v e o f Ko t p a d
d o n e b y      v i l l a g e i n Ko r a p u t Di s t r i c t i s
w o me n         t r a d i t i o n a l l y wo v e n i n h e a v y
wh i l e         c o t t o n r a n g i n g f r o m c o u n t s o f
we a v i n       10s t o 20s . T h e u s e o f n a t u r a l d y e
g i s            e x t r a c t e d f r o m t h e
d o n e b y      r o o t s o f t h e I n d i a n Ma d d e r t r e e
me n . I t       (a a l t r e e ) m a k e s i t d i f f e r e n t
i s              f r o m o t h e r we a v e s .
ma i n l y        The weaver uses a three‐shuttle i n t e r l o c k
t h e            p a t t e r n i n g , wh i c h a l l o ws f o r
Pa n k a         i n n u me r a b l e c o mb i n a t i o n s i n
tribe engaged    s c a l e a n d v o l u me
in
practicing K o
r a p u t wea
v e .




   11/3/2012      Aayush juyal
Wh    i l e t r a d i t i o n a l
                           mo    t i f s c o n t i n u e t o b e
                           u s   e d , t h e p r o d u c t s
                           wo    v e n h a v e e v o l v e d
                           f r   o m t h e s a r i t o
                           i n   c l u d e mo r e
                           c o   n t e mp o r a r y
                           p r   o d u c t s .
                           Th    e we a v i n g i s d o n e
                           u s   u a l l y o n u n b l e a c h e d
                           c o   t t o n ,h o w e v e r
                           n o   wa d a y s we a v e r s a r e
                           u s   i n g b l e a h e d f i n e r
                           y a   r n s t o s u i t e t h e
                           r e   q u i r e me n t s o f t h e
                           u r   b a n ma r k e t




11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
K h a n d u a (Also M a n i a b a n d i or K a t a k i ) i s a
t r a d i t i o n a l "b a n d h a " or i k a t sari produced from Orissa worn by
worn by women during wedding and a s p e c i a l t y p e o f w h i c h
i s wo r n b y J a g a n n a t h .K e n d u l i K h a n d u a , a
s p e c i a l f o r m o f K h a n d u a of 12 ft and
2 k a n i (each k a n i measures t h e l e n g t h o f a h a n d ) i s
o f f e r e d t o J a g a n n a t h to w e a r a s k h a n d u a w i t h
s t a n z a s a n d i l l u s t r a t i o n f r o m Gi t a
Go v i n d a .                          K h a n d u a is traditionally red or
                                        orange in color. The red color is prepared
                                        naturally from the s h o r e a
                                        r o b u s t a (s a l tree). The design
                                        motif has an auspicious elephant that
                                        represents Buddha s u r r o u n d e d
                                        b y t r a i l i n g v i n e
                                        wi t h p e a c o c k s i n i t ,
                                        a l a r g e ma n y p e t a l e d
                                        f l o we r , a u n i q u e
                                        O r i s s a n animal
                                        called N a b a g u n j a r a ,
                                        a d e u l a k u mb h a . T h e
                                        e l e p h a n t i n Kh a n d u a
                                        i k a t f r o m Nu a p a t a n a
                                        u s u a l l y v a r i e s f r o m
   11/3/2012           Aayush juyal     e l e p h a n t mo t i v e s i n
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Ha v i n g a n a n c i e n t t r a d i t i o n
            o f ma k i n g s p l e n d i d p i e c e s o f
            a r t b y h a n d s Or i y a a r t i s t s
            h a v e l o n g b e e n p r e s e n t i n g
            t h e i r a w e i n s p i r i n g ma s t e r
            p i e c e s t o t h e wo r l d . T h e r e a r e
            a l o t o f h a n d i c r a f t s t h a t h a v e
            b e e n r u n n i n g a s t h e l i f e f o r c e
            i n t h e c u l t u r a l l a n d o f Od i s h a
            (O r i s s a ). S o m e o f w h i c h i n c l u d e -
            P a t t a C h i t r a , S a n d A r t , Me t a l
            Wo r k , S i l v e r F i l i g r e e , S t o n e
            C a r v i n g a n d ma k i n g P u p p e t s
            a n d Ma s k s e t c .




11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Pa    t t a c h i t r a s a r e
mi    n i a t u r e p a i n t i n g s ,
u s   e d a s wa l l h a n g i n g s
wi    t h r e l i g i o u s t h e me s
a s    t h e i r s u b j e c t ma t t e r .
L e   g e n d s f r o m t h e l i v e s
o f    L o r d Kr i s h n a a r e
ma    i n l y d e p i c t e d o n t h i s
s p   e c i a l l y t r e a t e d
c l   o t h k n o wn a s Pa t t a .

De v e l o p e d o v e r t h e
y e a r s , t h i s a r t f o r m h a s
h e l p e d a d i s t i n c t
s c h o o l o f p a i n t i n g t o
e v o l v e . Ha v i n g i t s
o r i g i n i n Sa n s k r i t
l a n g u a g e , t h e wo r d Pa t t a
C h i t r a l i t e r a l l y me a n s
a p a i n t e d p i e c e o f
c l o t h . Th i s r i t u a l i s t i c
a r t o b s e r v e s a f i n e
b l e n d o f s o p h i s t i c a t e d
a r t a n d f o l k e l e me n t i n
t h e f o r m o f r i c h c o l o r s .
   11/3/2012          Aayush juyal
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
P o t t e r s o f Or i s s a
                           s t i l l ma k e
                           e a r t h e n p o t s t o b e
                           u s e d i n v a r i o u s
                           r e l i g i o u s a n d
                           s o c i a l f u n c t i o n s .
                           T h e y a r e ma d e i n
                           v a r i o u s s h a p e s
                           a n d s i z e s a n d a r e
                           a d o r n e d wi t h f i s h
                           a n d f l o w e r mo t i f s
                           a n d g e o me t r i c a l
                           d e s i g n s . Ho r s e s
                           a n d e l e p h a n t s i n
                           t e r r a c o t t a a r e
                           ma d e t o me e t l o c a l
                           d e ma n d s d u r i n g
                           r e l i g i o u s
                           o c c a s i o n s . Th e s e
                           a r e o f f e r e d t o t h e
                           v i l l a g e -g o d d e s s
                           (g r a m a -d e v a t i ) t o
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
                           wa r d o f f d i s e a s e
                           a n d d a n g e r . I n
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Ba s k e t s , h a n d f a n s
            a n d t a b l e ma t s a r e
            wo v e n f r o m g o l d e n
            g r a s s b y t h e f e ma l e
            f o l k . F l o o r ma t s a r e
            a l s o wo v e n o u t o f
            g o l d e n g r a s s wh i c h
            i s a l o c a l p r o d u c t ,
            T o d a y t h e d e ma n d f o r
            t h e s e g o o d s h a s
            i n c r e a s e d a n d t h i s
            t e s t i f i e s t o t h e i r
            b e a u t y , u t i l i t y a n d
            l a s t i n g q u a l i t y .
            Ca n e i s u s e d f o r
            we a v i n g b a s k e t s a n d
11/3/2012   Aayushv e r a l
            s e juyal       i t e ms o f
11/3/2012   Aayush juyal
Stone carving i s a n a g e -o l d c r a f t o f O r i s s a .
            T h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f t h e a r t i s a n s wh o
            o n c e s c a l e d t h e d i z z y h e i g h t s o f
            e x c e l l e n c e i n t e mp l e b u i l d i n g h a v e
            k e p t t h e s c u l p t u r a l t r a d i t i o n a l i v e
            t h r o u g h t h e i r h e r e d i t a r y c r a f t o f
            s t o n e c a r v i n g . Th e c a r v e d p r o d u c t s
            i n c l u d e r e p l i c a s o f t e mp l e s , i ma g e s o f
            g o d s a n d g o d d e s s e s , t h e Ko n a r k wh e e l
            a n d h o r s e , a n d d e c o r a t i v e f i g u r i n e s
            l i k e a l a s a k a n y a (t h e i n d o l e n t d a m s e l )
            s a l a b h a n j i k a (l a d y l e a n i n g a g a i n s t a
            s a l b r a n c h ), s u r a s u n d a r i (h e a v e n l y .
            b e a u t y ), l e k h i k a (l a d y w r i t i n g a
            letter), etc. which are popular items of household decoration. Wood carvings of
            Orissa are almost equally popular. They d i f f e r f r o m t h e
            a r t i f a c t s o f o t h e r s t a t e s i n s o f a r a s
11/3/2012            Aayush juyal
            t h e y a r e p l a i n a n d s h i n i n g w i t h s mo o t h
Presentation by :

                                    Aayush   Juyal (01)

                                      Farook Khan ()


                                     Smarnik sable(49)

                                  Siddharth Pokhriyal(48




11/3/2012          Aayush juyal

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Prsnttn orissa textiles AAYUSH JUYAL

  • 1. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 2. T h e w r i t i n g s o n t h e s t o n e s o f K h a n d a g i r i C a v e i n Or i s s a s u g g e s t t h a t t h e a r t o f we a v i n g wa s i n Or i s s a b e f o r e 600 B .C . S i mi l a r l y s o me c a r v i n g i n t h e t e mp l e s o f S o n e p u r d i s t r i c t (B a i d y a n a t h t e m p l e ) i n d i c a t e s t h a t w e a v i n g w a s i n e x i s t e n c e i n t h e a r e a d u r i n g p r i o r t o 9t h A .D . Be s i d e s we a v i n g wi t h c o t t o n y a r n , t h e r e wa s a l s o w e a n d ln o o w i it s tWi e d o s tl k m p a s s a rn ), Wor oa l d ia tn id o t n ha el f i i n bd eu r s st r y H a v i g m h h l mSi i (T o r t a t t o f r i s s a t L o u s . f r oom s t e m . oTf h e hHea n d lt o o m I n d u s t r y i s f a m o u s f o r i t s e x c e l l e n t a r t i s t i c a n d s u p e r i o r c r a f t s ma n s h i p . T h e h a n d l o o m f a b r i c s o f Od i s h a wi t h e x q u i s i t e c r a f t s ma n s h i p a n d c o l o r c o mb i n a t i o n w i t h t r a d i t i o n a l design and motifs have established a pride of place in the domestic as well as international market. , i t h a s a r i c h t r a d i t i o n o f p r o d u c i n g h a n d l o o m p r o d u c t s . Ev e n t h e s k i l l a n d k n o w l e d g e i mb i b e d o v e r t h e g e n e r a t i o n , h a s g i v e n t h e O d i s h a hand woven textiles an unparalleled depth, range, strength and vigor. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 3. O r i s s a „s T e x t i l e s h a v e a c l o s e r e l a t i o n w i t h t h e J a g a n n a t h c u l t u r e . T h e r i c h t e mp l e a r c h i t e c t u r a l c u l t u r e a n d s t y l e wi t h h e a v y d e s i g n s a n d v i v i d c o l o r s u s i n g f i n e f a b r i c t h r e a d i s t h e t e s t i mo n y o f t h e s u p e r i o r c r a f t s ma n s h i p o f O r i s s a . O r i g i n a l l y , t h e f o u r b a s i c c o l o r s , wh i c h a r e f o u n d o n J a g a n n a t h — b l a c k , wh i t e , r e d a n d y e l l o w — we r e e x t e n s i v e l y u s e d i n O r i y a g a r me n t s . E v e n mo t i f s s u c h a s t h e t e mp l e b o r d e r , l o t u s , s h a n k h a n d w h e e l , s i g n i f y t h e a f f i n i t y wi t h t h e r e i g n i n g d e i t y . T h e t r a d i t i o n a l Or i s s a we a v i n g h a v e u n d e r g o n e v a s t c h a n g e s a s we a v e r s t r y t o a d a p t t h e d e s i g n s t o p o p u l a r t a s t e . T h e p e c u l i a r h a n d -w o v e n t e x t i l e s o f O r i s s a i n u n u s u a l d e s i g n s , g o r g e o u s p a t t e r n s a n d v i 11/3/2012a n t c o l o Aayush s h a v e s u p p o r t e d a t h r i v i n g b r u r juyal
  • 4. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 5. I k a t o r t i e a n d d y e f a b r i c s , k n o w n a s "b a n d h a s " i n O r i s s a a r e r e c o g n i z e d a l l o v e r t h e c o u n t r y a n d a b r o a d f o r t h e i r h i g h l y a r t i s t i c d e s i g n s , c o l o r c o mb i n a t i o n s a n d d u r a b i l i t y .  I k a t i s a t y p e o f we a v i n g i n g e n e r a l t e r ms . T h e w e f t o r t h e w a r p o r b o t h a r e t i e - d y e d b e f o r e we a v i n g t o c r e a t e d e s i g n s o n f a b r i c i n t h i s m e t h o d . Wi t h e x q u i s i t e c o l o r s a n d b e a u t i f u l mo t i f s , I k a t s a r i s a r e c o n s i d e r e d a s a ma g n u m o p u s b e c a u s e e a c h s a r i t a k e s n e a r l y s e v e n mo n t h s o f c r a f t s ma n s h i p . T h e t r a d i t i o n a l I k a t s a r i s o f Or i s s a a r e a l s o r e f e r r e d t o a s d o u b l e P a t a n P a t o l a o r s a mb a l p u r i s a r e e s . T h e O r i s s a n s t y l e o f i k a t (b a n d h a ) h a s a l o n g t r a d i t i o n d a t i n g b a c k a t l e a s t t o t h e 12t h c e n t u r y . We a v e r s m i g r a t e d f r o m t h e Pa t a n a r e a b r i n g i n g t h e b a s i c t e c h n i q u e s w h i c h t h e n d e v e l o p e d o v e r t i me t o a u n i q u e s t y l e o f f l o wi n g d e s i g n s . T h e r e s i s t t y i n g i s d o n e f i n e l y o n t h r e a d u n i t s g i v i n g g r e a t e r d e t a i l a n d f i n e c u r v e s . T y p i c a l d e s i g n m o t i f s i n c l u d e r o w s o f b i r d s a n d a n i ma l s , f i s h , s e a s h e l l s , 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 6. Th e wa r p , we f t o r b o t h a r e t i e -d y e d b e f o r e we a v i n g t o c r e a t e d e s i g n s o n t h e f i n i s h e d f a b r i c . Gr e a t c a r e i s t o b e t a k e n i n t y i n g r e s i s t e d a r e a s wi t h wa t e r r e p e l l e n t m a t e r i a l (s u c h a s b i c y c l e i n n e r t u b e s c u t i n t o s t r i p s ). T h e p r e c i s i o n o f Af t e r wr a p p i n g , t h e t h r e a d s t h e w r a p p i n g d e t e r mi n e s a r e d y e d . Wh e n f i n i s h e d a n d t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e d e s i g n u n wr a p p e d , t h e a r e a s u n d e r t h e t i e s h a v e s t a y e d t h e o r i g i n a l c o l o u r . N u me r o u s c o l o u r s c a n b e a d d e d a f t e r a d d i t i o n a l wr a p p i n g s . D e s i g n s g e n e r a l l y a r Ger e a t c a r e m u s t b e w o r k e d o u t o n g r a p h pt aa pk ee r n i n p u t t i n g t h e b e f o r e d y e i n g wa r p o n t h e l o o m, k e e p i n g a l l t h e t h r e a d s i n p o s i t i o n 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal i s n e c e s s a r y f o r t h e
  • 7. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 8. Th e p r o c e s s o f t i e & d y e i s a v e r y t e d i o u s a n d t i me c o n s u mi n g t a s k a n d r e q u i r e s g r e a t a mo u n t o f p a t i e n c e a n d p r e c i s i o n . Th e f i b e r h a v e t o b e p l a c e d I k a t o f p r o p e r l y i n o r i s s a i s a l i g n me n t i n a n e x a mp l e o r d e r t o o f a c h i e v e t h e e x q u i s i t e d e s i r e d c r a f t ma n s h Pa t t e r n o r i p i n d e s i g n c o mb i n a t i o n wi t h t r a d i t i o n a l d e s i g n s 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 9. As t h e f a b r i c i s wo v e n , t h e p a t t e r n e me r g e s . Gr e a t c a r e i s t a k e n i n a l i g n i n g t h e y a r n s s o t h a t t h e p a t t e r n a p p e a r s c l e a r l y h o w e v e r ma n y a t i me s t h e y a r n s d o n o t c o mp l e t e l y f a l l i n s y n c ,g i v i n g a Tdh ee l ji a g g e d l l o o k g e d g h t f u j a g ,a c h i k e tv h a t w b e s t to h e l o o e d h e n ws y I a kr an t s w or r e k a sr or m en g e d i t 's a a o f m. wci ht ah r n o t t o o p r e c i s e n e s s , g i v e t h e f a b r i c s a g e n u i n e e t h n i c f e e l . Ho we v e r , wh e n a b s o l u t e p r e c i s e n e s s i s r e q u i r e d t h e w e a v e r ma y a l s o ma n u a l l y p u l l t h e 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal y a r n s t o ma k e t h e m
  • 10. I k a t h a s u n d e r g o n e ma n y c h a n g e s wi t h t i me . A l t o u g h i n n o v a t i o n h a s b r o u g h t e v o l u t i o n s i n t h i s a r t f o r m , Or i s s a s t i l l u p h o l d s t h e p u r i t y o f i t s t r a d i t i o n a l f l a i r , wh i c h c a n b e s e e n i n t h e Sonia gandhi wearing a sambalpuri saree g a r me n t s w o v e n h e r e . Sa r e e b e i n g t h e 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal t r a d i t i o n a l
  • 11. Th e t r a d i t i o n a l i k a t d e s i g n i s a n i n t e g r a t i o n o f c o n v e n t i o n a l mo t i f s l i k e Sh a n k h a ( Co n c h S h e l l s ), C h a k r a ( Wh e e l ), P h u l a ( f l o w e r s ), m i n a ( f i s h ) a n d o t h e r w i l d l i f e a n i ma l s l i k e e l e p h a n t s ,d e e r s , p e a c o c k s e t c . Th I k a t s i n O r i s s a are d y e d u s i n g e c o -f r i e n d l y c o l o r s e x t r a c t e d f r o m p l a n t s , f l o we r s , l e a v e s a n d b a r k s o f t r e e s . Bu t t h e i n c r e a s i n g d e ma n d o f t h e I k a t ma t e r i a l s i s f o r c i n g t h e we a v e r s t o u s e c h e mi c a l d y e s . A c c l a i me d I n t e r n a t i o n a l C a se hm i o c adl e s i y gen d rI sk la i t kse f h i n d e c s cs at r l d e sl sa tR h n tn a t h e s i o n i , O o e e a ,M i s n h a nuer B al r n e se d l o n e w i . t h J a t a d y a o n g s 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal a c c l aayi ,mi e td sn a t oi t o n a l s t To d n j u
  • 12. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 13. Pa s a p a l l i i s o n e o f t h e v a r i a t i o n s o f s a mb a l p u r i s a r e e s . Pa s a p a l l i s a r i i s a h a n d wo v e n s a r i g e n e r a l l y ma d e o f s i l k f a b r i c a n d h a s a b e a u t i f u l a n d e x c l u s i v e ` a a n c h a l `. Pa s a p a l l i s a r i i s wo v e n ma i n l y i n p l a c e s l i k e So n e p u r , Ba r p a l i a n d Ba u n s h r i . T h e s p e c i a l t y o f t h e s a r i i s , i t h a s c h e s s b o a r d l i k e p a t t e r n s i n t h e e n t i r e b o d y wi t h c h a r a c t e r i s t i c wh i t e a n d b l a c k /r e d s q u a r e s . Th e s a r i i s n o r ma l l y ma d e f r o m c o t t o n , t a s s a r , mu l b e r r 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal y s i l k a n d mu l b e r r y s i l k a n d t a s s a r
  • 14. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 15. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 16. B o m k a i is a t r a d i t i o n a l e x t r a w e f t t e c h n i q u e f r o m Or i s s a wo v e n o n a p i t l o o m . T h e v i l l a g e o f B o m k a i lends its name to the b o m k a i s a r i .B o m k a i saris combine b a n d h a (a n o t h e r t e r m f o r i k a t ) and s u p p l e m e n t a r y t The rb e a d w o r sari ,wcaasl t r a d i t i o n a l l y h o mk a i k l e d o r h -c a s kwa p t n a b j y a h ia gwhich r e ft e r B r ta o m i h ne s d o b b y l s h t m e cr h a n i rs imt (j a ll s ) n d c e r e m o n i e s d u i n g u a a a ma k i n g e a c h p i e c e a n e x c l u s i v e o n e . T h e we a v e r s c r e a t e b r i g h t l y colored panels with extra weft motifs on a contrasting background. The motifs are freely composed, commonly including k a r e l a (bitter gourd), the a t a s i flower, the k a n t h i p h u l (small flower), m a c c h i (fish), r u i m a c c h i (carp- T r a k o it n c h a l(tortoise), e g e t a b l o t d ys e), m a y fish), d i i o n a l y , v p a d m a (l e u s w e ra e u s e d : m c h a r a il a n i fr o r) b l a c k , u r (peacock), and y r o b a (b d t u r m e r i c f o r y e l l o w , l a c for dark red or maroon, g i r m a t i (o c h r e t r e a t e d w i t h g h e e ) f o r l i g h t r e d , a n d a c a c i a 11/3/2012 s k i Aayush f o r c h r o m e o r a n g e . n juyal
  • 17. Once the dyed yarn is fitted in, the pattern is worked using extra weft Th e t e c h n i q u e i s i n i t s e l f a technique. This gives a saree an almost woven, f u r t h e r i n g o f t h e t i e a n d d y e carpet like effect.The t e c h n i q u e . To u c h e s o f I k k a t Bomkai design both the wo r k c a n e a s i l y b e warp and weft is dyed f o u n d , h o we v e r , I n c a s e o f according to the Bo mk a i , t h e y a r n i s t i e d y e d requirement. For border b u t t h e f o c u s i s n o t o n design, warp alone is p a Us i n g ear t is m eh c o n seum ei r ngge o u t o f t t n w i c h m processed, while for Palavas and anchal of t y we a v i n ga t e cdhynei i qnuge. It th e s h rs e a d s i n g n d i t u e d sarees, weft is processed t o a r e g u t t n d c h e n r r aest t i e d l t oou r s c e a h e t o n t c o and overall saree designs, d i f n f t ehr ee s a r ceoel . o r e d y a r n s t o n t both the warp and weft are c r e a t e t h e u n u s u a l l y l a r g e processed. p a l l u . Th i s t e c h n i q u e i s l o c a l l y c a l l e d m u h a j o r h i (o r p a l l u wi t h j o i n e d t h r e a d s ) 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 18. T h e b o mk a i s a r e e s , a r e mo r e p o p u l a r l y k n o w a s s o n e p u r i s a r e e s , a n d a r e p r o d u c e d b y t h e “B h u l i a ” community of S u b a r n a p u r d i s t r i c t of Orissa T h e So n e p u r i p a a t a s a n d s i l k s a r e e s a r e p o p u l a r i t e ms d i s p l a y e d a t v a r i o u s f a s h i o n s h o w s a n d ma n y d e s i g n e r s a r e n o w i n c l u d i n g b o mk a i i n t h e i r c o l l e c t i o n s , wi t h e a c h o n e s h o wc a s i n g h i s o w n c o n t e mp o r a r y 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal v e r s i o n o f b o mk a i .
  • 19. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 20. Ap p l i q u e ', i s a F r e n c h t e r m t h a t r e f e r s t o a n a r t f o r m o f s u p e r i mp o s i n g p a t c h e s o f c o l o r e d f a b r i c s o n a p i e c e o f b a s i c f a b r i c /c l o t h t o g i v e i t a n a l t o g e t h e r a n e w l o o k . Th o u g h t h i s f o r m o f a r t i s n o t u n k n o wn i n o t h e r p a r t s o f I n d i a , i t i s Or i s s a a n d e s p e c i a l l y i n Pi p l i t h a t t h e c r a f t h a s a l i v i n g a n d a c t i v e t r a d i t i o n c o n t i n u i n g o v e r c e n t u r i e s . I n f a c t a p p l i q u e works are a vivid expression of O r i s s a C r a f t s . It is generally accepted that appliqué w o r k s o f O r i s s a date b a c k t o m o r e 11/3/2012 t h a Aayush juyal y e a r s . T h e p r o c e s s o f n 850
  • 21. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 22. The appliqué c r a f t i s o n e o f t h e mo s t p o p u l a r t r a d i t i o n a l n e e d l e wo r k s f r o m t h e p i p l i v i l l a g e o f P u r i district of Orissa. As the tradition of making appliqué w o r k i s l o c a t e d i n Pi p l i i t i s c a l l e d O n e o f t h e mo s t i mp o r t a n t c o t t a g e a s p i p l i c r a f t a n d l o c a l l y i t i n d u s t r i e s e n c o u r a g e d b y t e mp l e i s k n o wn a s Ch a n d u a r i t u a l s wa s t h e c r e a t i o n o f a p p l i q u e wo r k A p p l i q u e i n Or i s s a i s a n o l d t e mp l e a r t , w h i c h h a s b e e n r e f i n e d t o p e r f e c t i o n . A f i n e e x a mp l e o f t h e c r a f t i s t h e e n o r mo u s a p p l i q u e c a n o p i e s a b o v e t h e r e i g n i n g d e i t y o f Pu r i , L o r d J a g a n n a t h r . a d i e t p o p u ll a ry a n f d o tr rma o f i th ia o n i c r a f t T Th i o n a l a d n d d e c o r a t e d saer dt i c l m asn u f a c t ausr C h a ngdaur am e n t s a n d u i n e s u c h i n g (r e c t a n g uCl haar r a c t e r i s t t i r ca s a o(h e aar nt d f e e l c a n o p y ), l o k s s h a p e d wi t h wo o d e n s t a n d ) a n d Ch a t t i (u m b r e l l a ) w e r e u s e d f o r t h e p u r p o s e o f t e mp l e r i t u a l s i n c l u d i n g o t h e r t a i l o r e d a r t i c l e s . 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 23. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 24. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 25. “D o n g o r ” m e a n s h i l l , “K o n d h ”, means “inhabitant”. O n e wh o i n h a b i t s t h e h i l l s i n R a y a g a d a d i s t r i c t of O r i s s a a r e t h e D o n g o r i a K o n d h s . This tribe has a rich culture of art, dance and music over the last few centuries. The most eye-catching of the h a n d i c r a f t s are the colorful unique embroidery shawls. T h e s e a r e a l s o k n o w n a s “K a p a d a G o n d a ” (m a i n c l o t h ) a n d s i g n i f y a n i mp o r t a n t s i g n a t u r e i n t h e i r T h e st or naadl i i t t i yo n nodf dm aeksi sn g s h a w l p e r a r i s p r a c t i c e d i n t h e v i l l a g e s o f Kh a j u r i , Hu n d i j a l i , Ku r l i , Ka d r a k u ma a n d o t h e r s u r r o u n d i n g v i l l a g e s . Th e d e s i g n a n d p a t t e r n s a r e n o t t r a c e d o r d r a wn ; t h e y c o u n t t h e t h r e a d s i n o r d e r t o 11/3/2012 c o n s t r u c t t h e s y mme t r i c a l Aayush juyal
  • 26. These natural colored shawls are generally woven by young girls for themselves, their brothers or family members. The colors of the e m b r o i d e r y t h r e a d s are vibrant vegetable colors like red, g r e e n o r yellow. These dyes are extracted from juices of leaves, roots and turmeric. It g e n e r a l l y a k e s 3 to 4 months to c o m p l e t e o n e shawl. T t h e girls do t h e w e a v i n g and embroidery while they tend the crops or look after the cattle. While o l d e r m e n sport simple motifs on their shawls, the young ones wears an artistic piece. A beautifully embroidered shawl is the cynosure of all eyes in a marketplace. T h e s e s h a w l s s e l l i n t h e ma r k e t p l a c e a t 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal p r i c e s r a n g i n g
  • 27. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 28. Th e d y e i n g p r o c e s s i s T h e t r i b a l we a v e o f Ko t p a d d o n e b y v i l l a g e i n Ko r a p u t Di s t r i c t i s w o me n t r a d i t i o n a l l y wo v e n i n h e a v y wh i l e c o t t o n r a n g i n g f r o m c o u n t s o f we a v i n 10s t o 20s . T h e u s e o f n a t u r a l d y e g i s e x t r a c t e d f r o m t h e d o n e b y r o o t s o f t h e I n d i a n Ma d d e r t r e e me n . I t (a a l t r e e ) m a k e s i t d i f f e r e n t i s f r o m o t h e r we a v e s . ma i n l y The weaver uses a three‐shuttle i n t e r l o c k t h e p a t t e r n i n g , wh i c h a l l o ws f o r Pa n k a i n n u me r a b l e c o mb i n a t i o n s i n tribe engaged s c a l e a n d v o l u me in practicing K o r a p u t wea v e . 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 29. Wh i l e t r a d i t i o n a l mo t i f s c o n t i n u e t o b e u s e d , t h e p r o d u c t s wo v e n h a v e e v o l v e d f r o m t h e s a r i t o i n c l u d e mo r e c o n t e mp o r a r y p r o d u c t s . Th e we a v i n g i s d o n e u s u a l l y o n u n b l e a c h e d c o t t o n ,h o w e v e r n o wa d a y s we a v e r s a r e u s i n g b l e a h e d f i n e r y a r n s t o s u i t e t h e r e q u i r e me n t s o f t h e u r b a n ma r k e t 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 30. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 31. K h a n d u a (Also M a n i a b a n d i or K a t a k i ) i s a t r a d i t i o n a l "b a n d h a " or i k a t sari produced from Orissa worn by worn by women during wedding and a s p e c i a l t y p e o f w h i c h i s wo r n b y J a g a n n a t h .K e n d u l i K h a n d u a , a s p e c i a l f o r m o f K h a n d u a of 12 ft and 2 k a n i (each k a n i measures t h e l e n g t h o f a h a n d ) i s o f f e r e d t o J a g a n n a t h to w e a r a s k h a n d u a w i t h s t a n z a s a n d i l l u s t r a t i o n f r o m Gi t a Go v i n d a . K h a n d u a is traditionally red or orange in color. The red color is prepared naturally from the s h o r e a r o b u s t a (s a l tree). The design motif has an auspicious elephant that represents Buddha s u r r o u n d e d b y t r a i l i n g v i n e wi t h p e a c o c k s i n i t , a l a r g e ma n y p e t a l e d f l o we r , a u n i q u e O r i s s a n animal called N a b a g u n j a r a , a d e u l a k u mb h a . T h e e l e p h a n t i n Kh a n d u a i k a t f r o m Nu a p a t a n a u s u a l l y v a r i e s f r o m 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal e l e p h a n t mo t i v e s i n
  • 32. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 33. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 34. Ha v i n g a n a n c i e n t t r a d i t i o n o f ma k i n g s p l e n d i d p i e c e s o f a r t b y h a n d s Or i y a a r t i s t s h a v e l o n g b e e n p r e s e n t i n g t h e i r a w e i n s p i r i n g ma s t e r p i e c e s t o t h e wo r l d . T h e r e a r e a l o t o f h a n d i c r a f t s t h a t h a v e b e e n r u n n i n g a s t h e l i f e f o r c e i n t h e c u l t u r a l l a n d o f Od i s h a (O r i s s a ). S o m e o f w h i c h i n c l u d e - P a t t a C h i t r a , S a n d A r t , Me t a l Wo r k , S i l v e r F i l i g r e e , S t o n e C a r v i n g a n d ma k i n g P u p p e t s a n d Ma s k s e t c . 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 35. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 36. Pa t t a c h i t r a s a r e mi n i a t u r e p a i n t i n g s , u s e d a s wa l l h a n g i n g s wi t h r e l i g i o u s t h e me s a s t h e i r s u b j e c t ma t t e r . L e g e n d s f r o m t h e l i v e s o f L o r d Kr i s h n a a r e ma i n l y d e p i c t e d o n t h i s s p e c i a l l y t r e a t e d c l o t h k n o wn a s Pa t t a . De v e l o p e d o v e r t h e y e a r s , t h i s a r t f o r m h a s h e l p e d a d i s t i n c t s c h o o l o f p a i n t i n g t o e v o l v e . Ha v i n g i t s o r i g i n i n Sa n s k r i t l a n g u a g e , t h e wo r d Pa t t a C h i t r a l i t e r a l l y me a n s a p a i n t e d p i e c e o f c l o t h . Th i s r i t u a l i s t i c a r t o b s e r v e s a f i n e b l e n d o f s o p h i s t i c a t e d a r t a n d f o l k e l e me n t i n t h e f o r m o f r i c h c o l o r s . 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 37. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 38. P o t t e r s o f Or i s s a s t i l l ma k e e a r t h e n p o t s t o b e u s e d i n v a r i o u s r e l i g i o u s a n d s o c i a l f u n c t i o n s . T h e y a r e ma d e i n v a r i o u s s h a p e s a n d s i z e s a n d a r e a d o r n e d wi t h f i s h a n d f l o w e r mo t i f s a n d g e o me t r i c a l d e s i g n s . Ho r s e s a n d e l e p h a n t s i n t e r r a c o t t a a r e ma d e t o me e t l o c a l d e ma n d s d u r i n g r e l i g i o u s o c c a s i o n s . Th e s e a r e o f f e r e d t o t h e v i l l a g e -g o d d e s s (g r a m a -d e v a t i ) t o 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal wa r d o f f d i s e a s e a n d d a n g e r . I n
  • 39. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 40. Ba s k e t s , h a n d f a n s a n d t a b l e ma t s a r e wo v e n f r o m g o l d e n g r a s s b y t h e f e ma l e f o l k . F l o o r ma t s a r e a l s o wo v e n o u t o f g o l d e n g r a s s wh i c h i s a l o c a l p r o d u c t , T o d a y t h e d e ma n d f o r t h e s e g o o d s h a s i n c r e a s e d a n d t h i s t e s t i f i e s t o t h e i r b e a u t y , u t i l i t y a n d l a s t i n g q u a l i t y . Ca n e i s u s e d f o r we a v i n g b a s k e t s a n d 11/3/2012 Aayushv e r a l s e juyal i t e ms o f
  • 41. 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal
  • 42. Stone carving i s a n a g e -o l d c r a f t o f O r i s s a . T h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f t h e a r t i s a n s wh o o n c e s c a l e d t h e d i z z y h e i g h t s o f e x c e l l e n c e i n t e mp l e b u i l d i n g h a v e k e p t t h e s c u l p t u r a l t r a d i t i o n a l i v e t h r o u g h t h e i r h e r e d i t a r y c r a f t o f s t o n e c a r v i n g . Th e c a r v e d p r o d u c t s i n c l u d e r e p l i c a s o f t e mp l e s , i ma g e s o f g o d s a n d g o d d e s s e s , t h e Ko n a r k wh e e l a n d h o r s e , a n d d e c o r a t i v e f i g u r i n e s l i k e a l a s a k a n y a (t h e i n d o l e n t d a m s e l ) s a l a b h a n j i k a (l a d y l e a n i n g a g a i n s t a s a l b r a n c h ), s u r a s u n d a r i (h e a v e n l y . b e a u t y ), l e k h i k a (l a d y w r i t i n g a letter), etc. which are popular items of household decoration. Wood carvings of Orissa are almost equally popular. They d i f f e r f r o m t h e a r t i f a c t s o f o t h e r s t a t e s i n s o f a r a s 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal t h e y a r e p l a i n a n d s h i n i n g w i t h s mo o t h
  • 43. Presentation by : Aayush Juyal (01) Farook Khan () Smarnik sable(49) Siddharth Pokhriyal(48 11/3/2012 Aayush juyal