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BUILDING MATERIALS
PORCELAIN TILES
CONTENTS
▪ INTRODUCTION
▪ PROPERTIES
▪ MANUFACTURE
▪ LAYING PROCESS
▪ USES
▪ ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES
INTODUCTION
▪ Porcelain tiles are ceramic tiles commonly used to cover floors and walls, with
a water absorption rate of less than 0.5 percent.They can either be glazed or
unglazed. Porcelain tiles are one type of vitrified tiles, and are sometimes
referred to as porcelain vitrified tiles.
Polished Porcelain tiles The dense, hard surface of porcelain has made
polishing a viable alternative to a glazed surface.This means that a tile can be
fired, then a polish cut into the surface, creating a shine without a glaze.
PORCELAINTILES FOR FLOORING
▪ THE MAIN ELEMENT OF PORCELAINTILES ISTHE GOOD QUALITY
OF GROUND SAND.
▪ PORCELAINTILES IDVERY DENSE MATERIAL WITH HIGHWATER
ABSORPTION RATE OF 0.5%.
▪ PORCELAINTILE ALLOW ITTO BE USED IN MANY APPLICATION
INDOOR AND OUTDOOR.
▪ IT CAN BE USED IN EXTREME WEATHER CONDITION.
▪ PORCELAINTILES HAS MANY FINISHES LIKE-
GLAZED,UNGLAZED,HIGH GLOSS AND REFINED ORTEXTURED.
PROPERTIES
▪ 1. Dirt Resistance- porcelain tiles do not retain dust or residues as
easily as many other flooring surfaces.They can be easily cleaned
with common household materials.
▪ 2. Stain Resistance-porcelain tile varies depending on its capacity to
resist moisture. Glazed tiles and even some unglazed tiles resist all
types of stains and can be cleaned easily with some guidance.
▪ 3. Slip/Skid Resistance- porcelain tile manufacturers have developed
slip resistant tiles by using various glazes, glaze additives, and
patterns.
▪ 4. Color Permanence-Because color is fired into a tile’s clay body (in
the case of unglazed tiles) or onto a tile’s glazed surface (for glazed
tiles), fading does not occur.
PROPERTIES
▪ 5. Hygiene-The surface of ceramic and porcelain tile does not easily
retain antigens or allergens, nor do they absorb fumes, odors or
smoke.
▪ 6.THEIR OTHER PROPERTIES ALSO INCLUDE-
low permeability and elasticity;
considerable strength, hardness, toughness, whiteness, translucen
cy and resonance; and a high resistance to chemical attack
and thermal shock.
MANUFACTURE
▪ MATERIALS-
Water and raw materials mix together until a sand-like consistency is
reached. Recipes vary slightly however feldspar, clay, silica sand and
other materials are included in the mixture.
Getting the Perfect Consistency
▪ In this next step, a spray dryer removes the excess moisture from the
mixture until the perfect consistency is reached before the mixture is
moved into a press.
FILTER PRESSING
▪ Now, the porcelain mixture is pressed to form the tile. Each size and
shape of available porcelain tiles use a special punch to create the
body of the tile, called Greenware.
CURING
▪ Greenware is the term used for tiles that have not been glazed or
fired. Prior to that step, the raw materials are placed in a dryer to
remove moisture, readying the tiles for the next step.
PRINTING AND GLAZING
▪ After the tiles have dried, the next step is to add the pattern and
colors using a state-of-the-art inkjet printer. After the pattern is
applied, the glaze is applied to protect the tiles.
Into the Kiln
▪ After the tiles have dried, the next step is to add the pattern and
colors using a state-of-the-art inkjet printer. After the pattern is
applied, the glaze is applied to protect the tiles.
LAYING PROCESS
▪ STEP 1: PREPARETHE SURFACE
▪ Make sure your surfaces are clean, smooth, and dry for best results.
▪ Take time to repair, patch, and level any damaged or uneven areas.
▪ Double check to make sure the surface is structurally sound and the
area free of wax, soap scum, and grease.
▪ Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile
application,
STEP 2: BEGINYOUR LAYOUT
▪ For an efficient layout, start by marking the center point of each of
the walls in the room.
▪ Next, snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls to
pinpoint the center of the room.
▪ Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection
creates perfect squares.
▪ Starting at the center point, lay a row of loose tiles along the center
lines in both directions, using tile spacers as you go to for even,
uniform joints.
▪ Once you reach the walls, you'll need to cut tiles for a proper fit.
STEP 3: APPLYTHE ADHESIVE
▪ As a general rule of thumb, be mindful to mix only enough of the
adhesive to be used within 30 minutes.
▪ Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the adhesive
package, spread a 1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area without
covering the guidelines.
▪ After doing so, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the
notched side to comb adhesive into standing ridges.
▪ When you remove the excess adhesive, you leave behind a uniform,
ridged setting bed for your tile.
STEP 4: CUTTILE AS NEEDED
▪ Start by marking carefully measured cuts-to-be with a pencil or felt-
tip pen on the tile surface.
▪ You can use a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts.
▪ Make masterful curved cuts with a nipper, chipping away small pieces
for best results.
▪ For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to
handle the task.
▪ After your cuts are made, smooth out any sharp edges with a
carborundum stone to give a soft finish to your tile.
STEP 5: SETYOURTILE
▪ installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing
each grid before moving to the next.
▪ Within each grid, it will help to start with the first tile in the corner
and work outward.
▪ Once a grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet
or hammer and wood block to ensure a solid bond and level plane.
▪ Remove excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from tile
with a damp sponge to prevent an uneven appearance.
▪ Allow it dry for atleast 24 hours.
STEP 6: GROUTING JOINTS
▪ Remove the tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, use a rubber
grout float or a squeegee to force it down into the joints.
▪ Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle and with the edge of the float, remove
the excess grout from the surface immediately.
▪ Now tilt the float at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the
tiles.
▪ let the grout set slightly for around 15 to 20 minutes, use a damp sponge to
clean any residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints.
▪ Polish with a soft cloth when the grout has dried and haze forms on the tile
surface, and rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary.
Adhesives:
▪ Specialised cements are necessary for installation of porcelain
tiles. Porcelain, being denser and heavier than ordinary ceramic tiles, needs
a stronger adhesive to hold the weight on walls.Therefore, typical ready-
mix adhesives are not recommended for porcelain.
Sealing:
▪ When porcelain is first made, it is not absorbent, but the polishing process
for making the unglazed surface shiny cuts into the surface, leaving it more
porous and prone to absorbing stains, in the same way as natural stone
tiles. Unless they have a suitable, long-lasting treatment applied by the
manufacturer (for example, nanotech treatment), polished porcelain tiles
will need sealing. Porcelain sealants are either solvent-based or water-
based, which is cheaper, but does not last.
USE
▪ Porcelain tile is much harder than ordinary ceramic tiles and is usually
selected, despite its higher price etc.porcelain can be used in dry areas such
as wall murals,dadoes and less traffic zones.
ADVANTAGES
▪ Dense, hard and highly durable.
▪ Very versatile.
▪ Easy to care for.
▪ Economical.
▪ Beautiful.
DISADVANTAGES
▪ Compared to non-porcelain ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles usually cost
more.
▪ Porcelain tile is not uniform in size due to the way they “cooked” at
very high temperatures.
▪ Porcelain tile is heavier than normal ceramic tiles and fragile.
▪ Because of the uneven size of porcelain tiles, installing porcelain tiles
is not considered an easy do it yourself project.
▪ The natural imperfections of porcelain tile are susceptible to
gathering dirt and staining.
THANKYOU!
BY,
B.ABINAYA
151011101002

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porcelain tiles

  • 2. CONTENTS ▪ INTRODUCTION ▪ PROPERTIES ▪ MANUFACTURE ▪ LAYING PROCESS ▪ USES ▪ ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES
  • 3. INTODUCTION ▪ Porcelain tiles are ceramic tiles commonly used to cover floors and walls, with a water absorption rate of less than 0.5 percent.They can either be glazed or unglazed. Porcelain tiles are one type of vitrified tiles, and are sometimes referred to as porcelain vitrified tiles. Polished Porcelain tiles The dense, hard surface of porcelain has made polishing a viable alternative to a glazed surface.This means that a tile can be fired, then a polish cut into the surface, creating a shine without a glaze.
  • 4. PORCELAINTILES FOR FLOORING ▪ THE MAIN ELEMENT OF PORCELAINTILES ISTHE GOOD QUALITY OF GROUND SAND. ▪ PORCELAINTILES IDVERY DENSE MATERIAL WITH HIGHWATER ABSORPTION RATE OF 0.5%. ▪ PORCELAINTILE ALLOW ITTO BE USED IN MANY APPLICATION INDOOR AND OUTDOOR. ▪ IT CAN BE USED IN EXTREME WEATHER CONDITION. ▪ PORCELAINTILES HAS MANY FINISHES LIKE- GLAZED,UNGLAZED,HIGH GLOSS AND REFINED ORTEXTURED.
  • 5. PROPERTIES ▪ 1. Dirt Resistance- porcelain tiles do not retain dust or residues as easily as many other flooring surfaces.They can be easily cleaned with common household materials. ▪ 2. Stain Resistance-porcelain tile varies depending on its capacity to resist moisture. Glazed tiles and even some unglazed tiles resist all types of stains and can be cleaned easily with some guidance. ▪ 3. Slip/Skid Resistance- porcelain tile manufacturers have developed slip resistant tiles by using various glazes, glaze additives, and patterns. ▪ 4. Color Permanence-Because color is fired into a tile’s clay body (in the case of unglazed tiles) or onto a tile’s glazed surface (for glazed tiles), fading does not occur.
  • 6. PROPERTIES ▪ 5. Hygiene-The surface of ceramic and porcelain tile does not easily retain antigens or allergens, nor do they absorb fumes, odors or smoke. ▪ 6.THEIR OTHER PROPERTIES ALSO INCLUDE- low permeability and elasticity; considerable strength, hardness, toughness, whiteness, translucen cy and resonance; and a high resistance to chemical attack and thermal shock.
  • 7. MANUFACTURE ▪ MATERIALS- Water and raw materials mix together until a sand-like consistency is reached. Recipes vary slightly however feldspar, clay, silica sand and other materials are included in the mixture.
  • 8. Getting the Perfect Consistency ▪ In this next step, a spray dryer removes the excess moisture from the mixture until the perfect consistency is reached before the mixture is moved into a press.
  • 9. FILTER PRESSING ▪ Now, the porcelain mixture is pressed to form the tile. Each size and shape of available porcelain tiles use a special punch to create the body of the tile, called Greenware.
  • 10. CURING ▪ Greenware is the term used for tiles that have not been glazed or fired. Prior to that step, the raw materials are placed in a dryer to remove moisture, readying the tiles for the next step.
  • 11. PRINTING AND GLAZING ▪ After the tiles have dried, the next step is to add the pattern and colors using a state-of-the-art inkjet printer. After the pattern is applied, the glaze is applied to protect the tiles.
  • 12. Into the Kiln ▪ After the tiles have dried, the next step is to add the pattern and colors using a state-of-the-art inkjet printer. After the pattern is applied, the glaze is applied to protect the tiles.
  • 13. LAYING PROCESS ▪ STEP 1: PREPARETHE SURFACE ▪ Make sure your surfaces are clean, smooth, and dry for best results. ▪ Take time to repair, patch, and level any damaged or uneven areas. ▪ Double check to make sure the surface is structurally sound and the area free of wax, soap scum, and grease. ▪ Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile application,
  • 14. STEP 2: BEGINYOUR LAYOUT ▪ For an efficient layout, start by marking the center point of each of the walls in the room. ▪ Next, snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls to pinpoint the center of the room. ▪ Make any necessary adjustments to ensure that the intersection creates perfect squares. ▪ Starting at the center point, lay a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, using tile spacers as you go to for even, uniform joints. ▪ Once you reach the walls, you'll need to cut tiles for a proper fit.
  • 15. STEP 3: APPLYTHE ADHESIVE ▪ As a general rule of thumb, be mindful to mix only enough of the adhesive to be used within 30 minutes. ▪ Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the adhesive package, spread a 1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area without covering the guidelines. ▪ After doing so, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the notched side to comb adhesive into standing ridges. ▪ When you remove the excess adhesive, you leave behind a uniform, ridged setting bed for your tile.
  • 16. STEP 4: CUTTILE AS NEEDED ▪ Start by marking carefully measured cuts-to-be with a pencil or felt- tip pen on the tile surface. ▪ You can use a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts. ▪ Make masterful curved cuts with a nipper, chipping away small pieces for best results. ▪ For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to handle the task. ▪ After your cuts are made, smooth out any sharp edges with a carborundum stone to give a soft finish to your tile.
  • 17. STEP 5: SETYOURTILE ▪ installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid before moving to the next. ▪ Within each grid, it will help to start with the first tile in the corner and work outward. ▪ Once a grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a solid bond and level plane. ▪ Remove excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from tile with a damp sponge to prevent an uneven appearance. ▪ Allow it dry for atleast 24 hours.
  • 18. STEP 6: GROUTING JOINTS ▪ Remove the tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, use a rubber grout float or a squeegee to force it down into the joints. ▪ Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle and with the edge of the float, remove the excess grout from the surface immediately. ▪ Now tilt the float at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. ▪ let the grout set slightly for around 15 to 20 minutes, use a damp sponge to clean any residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. ▪ Polish with a soft cloth when the grout has dried and haze forms on the tile surface, and rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary.
  • 19. Adhesives: ▪ Specialised cements are necessary for installation of porcelain tiles. Porcelain, being denser and heavier than ordinary ceramic tiles, needs a stronger adhesive to hold the weight on walls.Therefore, typical ready- mix adhesives are not recommended for porcelain. Sealing: ▪ When porcelain is first made, it is not absorbent, but the polishing process for making the unglazed surface shiny cuts into the surface, leaving it more porous and prone to absorbing stains, in the same way as natural stone tiles. Unless they have a suitable, long-lasting treatment applied by the manufacturer (for example, nanotech treatment), polished porcelain tiles will need sealing. Porcelain sealants are either solvent-based or water- based, which is cheaper, but does not last.
  • 20. USE ▪ Porcelain tile is much harder than ordinary ceramic tiles and is usually selected, despite its higher price etc.porcelain can be used in dry areas such as wall murals,dadoes and less traffic zones. ADVANTAGES ▪ Dense, hard and highly durable. ▪ Very versatile. ▪ Easy to care for. ▪ Economical. ▪ Beautiful.
  • 21. DISADVANTAGES ▪ Compared to non-porcelain ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles usually cost more. ▪ Porcelain tile is not uniform in size due to the way they “cooked” at very high temperatures. ▪ Porcelain tile is heavier than normal ceramic tiles and fragile. ▪ Because of the uneven size of porcelain tiles, installing porcelain tiles is not considered an easy do it yourself project. ▪ The natural imperfections of porcelain tile are susceptible to gathering dirt and staining.