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The Story
of a Religious
Female Enologist
P a s s o v e r 2 0 1 5 | 5 7 7 5
Top Kosher Chefs
Talk Food & Wine
Israeli Wines
Score Big!
Say Bonjour
to French
Wines
P r o d u c t of I s r a e l
9	 The Man Who Strolls the
Vineyards of Bordeaux
We sat down with Menachem Israelivitch, Royal Wine
Corp.’s Head Kosher Winemaker in Europe to find out
what goes into making some of France’s most sought
after chateaux kosher and how the industry has
changed over the years.
	14	 Wine Pairing with Jay Buchsbaum
The Director of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp.
shares his suggestions for pairing wine with
traditional dishes.
	17	 Wine Buying guide
Israeli wines are hot and it’s not going unnoticed, leading
wine magazine Wine Enthusiast just released some of the
highest scores Israeli wines have ever seen and threw in
a couple of best buys for good measure.
	22	 From the kitchen
We asked four chefs who are redefining kosher
cuisine four questions about food and wine
	29	 Fine Wine
Herzog Wine Cellar’s Alicia Wilbur, the story
of a frum female enologist.
12 Demystifying French
Wine Labels
16 Wine Myths
28 Did You Know?
All about Herzog Wine Cellars
in Oxnard, CA
32 Q&A with
Mordy Herzog
13 Put a Cork In It
A unique view on selecting
wines for your seder
8 French 101
Sound like a seasoned wine veteran
with these French wine terms
Presented by Royal Wine Corp. For more information on any of the wines in this magazine or our complete portfolio visit www.royalwine.com.
Connect with us! facebook.com/royalwinecorporation or @royalwinecorp
5	
French Wines
You may have heard that
French wines are making a
comeback, but what makes
them so sought after and
what’s with all the rules
and regulations?
I give my wine
everything I have,
including
my name.
Gilad Flam
Winemaker
P r o d u c t o f I s r a e l
MEMBER
90
s c o r e
FLAM
RESERVE MERLOT
2010
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 5
French Wines
©TzviS.Cohen|RoyalWineCorp.
By Joshua E. London
In the minds of many wine lovers, France is the very heart
and soul of wine. The world over, wine producers, con-
sumers and even critics, judge wines against the ideals and
benchmarks set by the very best wines of France. For various
reasons, however, France’s star experienced a lull in consumer
interest and sales—but no longer. French wine is once again on
the rise, gaining the attention of American consumers, includ-
ing those in the niche world of kosher wine.
Whether red, white, pink, or sparkling, France offers storied
perfection for so many. Yet despite its legendary reputation for
wine quality, France nonetheless saw its star fall considerably in
the US over the last decade or so. There are various likely reasons
for this, many of which can be plucked from the newspaper head-
lines in this post-9/11 world.
Just as many Americans preferred “freedom fries” to
“French fries”, and cracked jokes about French national identity
as “Cheese eating surrender monkeys”, many wine consum-
ers turned away from French wines. This was less about wine
quality and enjoyment then it was about politics. “After all,”
went one line of thought, “there is no shortage of great wines
being produced around the globe today, so why support coun-
tries that annoy us?” This sort of thinking may or may not be
fair, but it has an earnest logic to it.
But now this is apparently changing, and France is once
again coming back into favor amongst US wine drinkers, even
in the kosher market. Many kosher consumers are expanding
their horizons and the allures of France are being rediscovered.
»» continued on page 6
French
Kosher Wines
6 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
French Wines
“Consumer interest in kosher French
wine is steadily growing again,” notes
Nathan Herzog, Executive VP of Royal
Wine Corp., the largest producer, im-
porter and distributor of kosher wines
and spirits. “So for this Pesach,” he
added, “we’ve brought over some of the
most exciting French wines to date.”
For those new to it all, French wines
can seem complicated. This is partly
because of their stunning variety, and
partly because of their all important re-
gional identity. This isn’t as complicated
as it seems.
One of the central concepts here is the
French term “terroir,” which very loose-
ly translates as “a sense of place,” and
refers to the sum of the interactive ef-
fects on the final wine of its unique local
growing conditions—everything from
the soil, microclimate, and weather, to
the vineyard management and methods
of production. Thus, the “appellation” or
location where the wine comes from is
all important to the French, and so is
greatly emphasized on the label.
As a general rule, in fact, French wines
will bear the name of the region or vil-
lage in which their grapes were grown,
rather than the actual variety of grape
from which they were produced. For
example, almost all red wines from Bur-
gundy are made using the Pinot Noir va-
riety of grape, yet only very rarely will
this name appear on the bottle’s label.
Likewise, nearly all Bordeaux red wines
are made from a blend of grapes rather
than a single grape varietal; typically
they are made from a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, though
other varieties are used as well.
So very seriously do the French take
this heritage, that France was in fact
the first nation to legislate a system to
protect geographical names of origin
and also codify local grape growing
practices—known as the “appellation
d’origine controlee” or “AOC” (“con-
trolled designation of origin”). The most
famous wine growing regions of France
are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne,
the Loire Valley, Alsace, and the Rhône
Valley. Each calls to mind specific gen-
eral styles, even though any particular
producer or wine may vary greatly from
another within the same region.
Is this so terribly confusing? At first
blush, perhaps so…But really this is also
a terrific strength, for wine lovers will
seemingly never run out of great French
wines to try. Likewise, learning about and
exploring French wine can easily become
one of life’s great gustatory pleasures.
With Passover just around the corner,
new French kosher wines and vintages
are beginning to arrive in stores. As
French kosher wines have started to re-
gain shelf-space, now is the time to start
this wonderful journey of discovery.
There are some fabulous kosher
wines being produced in France,
one of the world’s oldest and
greatest wine regions. In order to proper-
ly explore French wine, all that one really
needs is a thirst for both a little knowl-
edge and for seriously good kosher wine.
The French believe that foods and
beverages taste the way they do part-
ly because of the place where they are
made. One consequence is that the
French attribute special properties
or characteristics to their land, and
have sought to protect these qualities
through government regulation and
laws to designate each particular ag-
As a general rule, French wines will
bear the name of the region or village
in which their grapes were grown.
Château Giscours
French Wines
ricultural area or zone of production
within each geographical region. This
is why there always seems to be so
much importance attached to French
wine regions, and so many seeming-
ly extra words on each wine label to
identify it all.
Consider Bordeaux. It is one of
France’s most prominent wine regions
and is often considered the benchmark
in fine, long-aged wines. Also, it is the
source of so many of the French kosher
wines found here in the US.
Bordeaux, which means “waterside” or
“seaside”, is the name of a port city in the
southwest corner of France from which
much of the country’s wine commerce
was historically conducted. Bordeaux is
likewise the regional name for the sur-
rounding wine producing area, and so
also the name for the wines produced
there. The red wines of Bordeaux are
typically made from a cuvee, or blend,
of more than one grape variety, mostly
based around Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. While the
wines of Bordeaux are
most famously dry red
wines, there are some
great white wines too,
both dry and sweet,
made primarily from
the Sauvignon Blanc
and Sémillon grapes.
Like all French wine
regions, Bordeaux has many regulated
sub-regions, in recognition of the vary-
ing soils, microclimates and traditions
associated with their sense of place of
each part. Bordeaux is bisected by the
Gironde Estuary, formed from the meet-
ing of the rivers Dordogne and Garonne.
The formation looks almost like an
upside down letter “Y” of running wa-
ter. The areas along the “left bank”, or
western side, of the Gironde, running
south of the Garonne river part of the
inverted “Y”, include the Médoc, Haut-
Médoc, St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe,
Margaux, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, and
further south the sweet white wine re-
gion of Sauternes. Some of the world’s
most famous wines are produced along
this “left bank.”
While the “right bank”, or eastern
side of the Gironde, running south of
the Dordogne river part of the inverted
“Y”, includes such famous wine regions
as Pomerol and St. Émilion. Since these
“right bank” wine growing areas are
north of the water supply, they tend to
experience a slightly shorter growing
season and can encounter an earlier dan-
ger of frost. In order to compensate for
this, it is commonly thought, most of the
“right bank” vintners have traditionally
planted more Merlot rather than Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, which matures more
slowly on the vine.
Hence the common rule of thumb that
the “left bank” châteaux produce wines
that are typically more Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon driven, and so tend to be rich, pow-
erful and higher in tannins, alcohol and
acidity. While those on the “right bank”
tend to favor Merlot and Cabernet Franc,
and so tend to be softer, juicier, less tannic,
and lower in alcohol and acidity. Of course,
Learning about and
exploring French wine
can easily become one of
life’s gustatory pleasures.
Josh’s
Favorites
We asked Josh to pick
4 French wines to fill his
Four Cups. Here’s what
he would serve...
Laurent-Perrier
Cuvee Rosé Brut
Champagne
Pascal Bouchard
Chablis Le Classique
Burgundy
Château Rollan
de By
Bordeaux, Médoc
Barons Edmond
& Benjamin de
Rothschild
Bordeaux, Haut-Médoc
»» continued on page 34
Château Pontet-Canet
Appellation Contrôlée
(AC or AOC)
Part of French law that guarantees
that a wine comes from where the
label says it does, that it is made
from specific grapes and that it is
produced in a certain way.
French
Wine Terms
A term which translates into English as “Classed Growth”.
In 1855, 61 red wines of the Médoc (including one from Graves:
Château Haut-Brion) were classified as Cru Classé, which were
divided into five ranks determined by price (and therefore, in
theory, quality), ranging from Premier Cru (First Growth) down to
Cinquième Cru (Fifth Growth). At the same time, the sweet white wines of
Sauternes were divided into three categories: Premier Grand Cru, Premier
Cru and Deuxième Cru, or First Great Growth, First Growth and Second
Growth. Although now hopelessly outdated, these classifications do
still denote a lot of prestige to a property and its wines. In 1955, also in
Bordeaux, the wines of St. Émilion were similarly classified into three
ranks: Premier Grand Cru Classé, Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru, while
Grand Cru Classé (without subdivisions) has also been used since 1953 for
red wines of Graves and, since 1959, for white wines of that area.
Cru
Classé
The regular Bordeaux
oak barrel of 225 liters
Barrique
At its simplest, the word means “soils”, but
winemakers use it to refer to the differing
types of soil, climate, drainage and position
of a vineyard. “Taste of the Place”
Terrior
The satisfying froth
that fizzes in a glass of
champagne or sparkling
wine as it is poured,
savored and drunk.
Mousse
Château
Term given to a specific
wine-growing property.
Vin de Pays
Country wine of a level
higher than table wine.
Mis en Bouteille au Château
Bottled at the château
Rouge
Red
Blanc
White
Moelleux
Sweet
Doux
Sweet
8 DiVine Passover 2015 | 5775.
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 9
The Man Who Strolls the
Vineyards of Bordeaux
BY YITZCHOK SHTEIERMAN
With the explosion of the French kosher wine market, we set about taking a look behind the scenes at
the winemakers, importers, and those who scour the French countryside—and the various regions within
regions—to provide the burgeoning worldwide kosher wine market with a wide range of quality French wines.
Mr. Menachem Israelievitch is the chief kosher winemaker for Royal Wine in France, and along with Mr. Shia
Herzog from London, heads import and export for Royal Wine throughout Europe. A third generation Jewish
Frenchman, he has been involved in the wine industry for close to two decades. He recalls his Parisian upbringing
and strong connections to wine, and expresses his passion for bringing an increasing variety of French wines
to ever more discerning kosher consumers throughout the world.
Bordeaux
10 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
A Passion for Wine
“My family, which originates in Poland and Rumania, are part of the Chabad
kehillah in Paris, and my father was drawn back to his heritage through the
great late Reb Muleh Azimov, zt”l, the head Lubavitch shliach to France.
When I was 16 years of age, still in yeshivah, a friend asked me whether I
wanted to join him to work as a Mashgiach for winemaking in the Langued-
oc region in the south of France under the supervision of Harav Mordechai
Seckbach, the chief Rabbi of Strasbourg, who provides a hechsher for many
French wines. I went… and the rest is history,” smiles Menachem.
“I kept going back each year for the harvest time which coincides with bein
hazmanim, and when I completed yeshivah, I took a full time job as a mash-
giach in Burgundy and the Loire Valley, and soon became highly involved
in the winemaking process for all the wineries of the area who wished to
produce kosher barrels. And for the last eighteen years,
I have been involved in all aspects of bringing kosher
wine in and out of Europe—including being single-hand-
edly responsible for twenty wineries in Bordeaux.”
Asked whether wine has a connection to his fami-
ly, Menachem replies, “I will tell you that my family is
a highly musical one. My father was a great concert pianist,
and my uncles are concert violinists in orchestras all over the world.
Wine, like music, is made with the heart and soul. One must be intu-
itive, attentive, and passionate about winemaking just like with music.
In addition to this, in Jewish tradition we know, yayin yesamach levav enosh,
wine brings true happiness, similar to music.” By all accounts, Menachem
Israelievitch does indeed live and breathe wine.
The Storied Châteaux of Bordeaux
Among the wineries, or châteaux, in which Royal Wine produces high
caliber kosher wine are some of the most prestigious wineries of Bor-
deaux—with some of the highest rankings and storied traditions dat-
ing back hundreds of years.
In the year 1855, in the time of Napoleon, a classification for wine ped-
igree was created: Grands Cru classes. The French wines imported by Royal
Wine feature many châteaux with this prestigious classification; Château Leo-
ville Poyferré, Château Giscours, and Château Pontet Canet to name a few.
Château Rothschild, which is in the Medoc appellation within Bordeaux,
was the first high quality French wine that Royal Wine began producing ko-
sher through their winemaker Pierre Miodownick. Menachem supposes that
it may have been their strong ties to the Jewish community that motivated
them to take this unheard of step at the time.
In the 1970’s, Baron Edmond de Rothschild, of the famed Rothschild family
of bankers who were tzaddikim and great philanthropists, purchased various
parcels around Bordeaux. His purchases included Château Clarke, Château
Malmaison and Château Peyre-Lebade, which all had to be restored from
scratch, indicating the family’s strong commitment to winemaking.
Perhaps the most prestigious of the Bordeaux labels of which Royal
Wine produces kosher bottles is Château Leoville Poyferré. Situated in
the Saint-Julien area, which is one of most prestigious appellations in Bor-
deaux, the château has been in the Cuvelier family, which began wine-
making in the north of France generations ago, since 1804—more than 210
years! In 1903, the Cuvelier family purchased Château Le Crock, another
of their wineries that has been producing stellar kosher Bordeaux.
Wine
Regions of
France
Bordeaux
Alsace
most famous for
RIESLING
PINOT GRIS
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Bordeaux
most famous for
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
& MERLOT BLENDS
Bourgogne
most famous for
PINOT NOIR
CHARDONNAY
Champagne
most famous for
SPARKLING WINE
Languedoc
Roussillon
most famous for
GRENACHE &
CARIGNAN BLENDS
Provence
most famous for
ROSE BLENDS
Alsace
most famous for
RIESLING
PINOT GRIS
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Bordeaux
most famous for
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
& MERLOT BLENDS
Bourgogne
most famous for
PINOT NOIR
CHARDONNAY
Champagne
most famous for
SPARKLING WINE
Languedoc
Roussillon
most famous for
GRENACHE &
CARIGNAN BLENDS
Provence
most famous for
ROSE BLENDS
Sud Ouest
most famous for
MALBEC
Loire
most famous for
SAUVIGNON BLANC
MUSCADET
CHENIN BLANC
Rhone
most famous for
SYRAH &
GRENACHE
BLENDS
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 11
Alsace
most famous for
RIESLING
PINOT GRIS
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Bordeaux
most famous for
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
& MERLOT BLENDS
Bourgogne
most famous for
PINOT NOIR
CHARDONNAY
Champagne
most famous for
SPARKLING WINE
Languedoc
Roussillon
most famous for
GRENACHE &
CARIGNAN BLENDS
Provence
most famous for
ROSE BLENDS
Sud Ouest
most famous for
MALBEC
Loire
most famous for
SAUVIGNON BLANC
MUSCADET
CHENIN BLANC
Rhone
most famous for
SYRAH &
GRENACHE
BLENDS
In 1993, Château Giscours, in the
Margaux appellation, which is near the
French town of Labarde, in Bordeaux,
was the fourth winery with the coveted
Gran Cru Classe that Royal Wine began
producing as kosher. Château Giscours
carries with it 600 years of winemaking
tradition—when Pierre de l’Horme pur-
chased the estate in 1552, and like every
good Frenchman who was privileged to
buy into Bordeaux, planted the first vines.
From their 400 hectares which produce
Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Verdot vari-
etals, Château Giscours produces 25,000
cases of their Grand Vin line.
Today Royal Wine makes kosher wine
in 15 châteaux with the Grand Cru
Classe distinction.
Menachem becomes audibly excited
as he describes the end of summer and
beginning of autumn, when he spends
his days in the Bordeaux region over-
seeing the wine production at the var-
ious châteaux. “There is an atmosphere
of excitement in the châteaux among
the winemakers and the staff, a strong
sense of anticipation for how the boun-
ty will turn out. The scenery and the
climate is magical, and along the buzz
of activity, it is a wonderful experience
for all those involved.”
Bordeaux: The Source
This region is one that is heavy with
winemaking tradition—going back
hundreds of years—and each area
within the Bordeaux region has its own
methods and approach to the varietals
they use in their blend. “In France, the
appellation is the most important as-
pect of the pedigree of the wine. My
favorite is the Saint-Julien appellation
where the tradition is 80% Cabernet,
15% Merlot, and 5% Petite Verdot, as I
feel this provides a balanced feel on the
palate. And it has a velvety smoothness,
such that when you’re midway through
your meal the bottle is finished…” ex-
plains Menachem.
Mr. Israelievitch says that it is not just
the kosher consumer that has increased
demand for French wine in such a big
way; the world has moved to French
wines. “The reason for this is that as the
interest for wine in general has become
The barrels and the grapes are like children
which need constant attention and warmth.
Menachem’s Favorites
We asked Menachem to pick 4 wines to fill his
Four Cups. Here’s what he would serve...
Château
Leoville Poyferré
Saint Julien
Château Giscours
Margaux
Les Roches
de Yon Figeac
Saint Émilion
Château
Pontet Canet
Pauillac
Bordeaux
Château Yon Figeac
more intense, people have turned to the
source of winemaking. And right here in
French wine country—this is the source
of winemaking, where all the tradition
and technique is handed down from gen-
eration to generation.”
The Gironde River, which flows from
the enormous Atlantic right through the
heart of Bordeaux, has provided satu-
ration to the ground that has sprouted
this blessed fruit for hundreds of years,
and this has set the region apart. In ad-
dition, the climate, exposure to the sun,
the quality of the soil, along with the
elevation—each appellation respective-
ly—have made Bordeux wines the most
desirable in the world.
But then there is another, just as im-
portant, aspect of winemaking in Bor-
deaux; a culture of winemaking that
permeates the entire region—directly
translating to superior wines. “There
are laws that govern winemaking in Bor-
deaux. These passionate winemakers are
vigilant about upholding what they have,
and ensuring that Bordeaux wines will
remain the most superior in the world,”
Menachem explains.
The maximum amount of wine that
may be produced is between 4,500
and 6,000 liters of wine per hectare—
depending on the appellation (with
most châteaux producing under 4,000).
This means that the farmers have no
motivation to increase the amount of
grapes that grow on each vine—which
in turn means that each grape will hold
much more quality, something that im-
pacts the caliber of the wine.
The governing committee of Bor-
deaux judges each vintage as to wheth-
er it is worthy of the classification. A
farmer’s worst nightmare is to lose that
label, and he does everything to retain
it. Thus, every grape is sorted; for size,
proper exposure to sun, and many oth-
er factors, to make sure it is worthy to
make it into the blend. The winemakers
themselves are most often the growers
of the grapes, because when it comes
to wine, the caliber of the fruit and the
way it is grown is every bit as important
as the winemaking process itself.
“So in essence, the desirability of Bor-
deaux wines is the result of both the
uniqueness of the region, but it is also
much about a people that regards wine-
making as their sacred duty, and some-
thing they want to pass down to their
children just as they have received it
from their great grandfathers.”
Handing over the press
to the Rabbis
All of this begs the question; why would
winemakerswhotreatthisartastheirsacred
culture, hand over their work to Rabbis?
Menachem, who has grown to know
and respect these practitioners of the
wine tradition of Bordeaux, explains that
it is indeed a great challenge and a mon-
umental undertaking to be taking the
reins of winemaking in these venerated
institutions. “These bottles come out
under their label, which means it reflects
on them, and their château is judged by
the wine that we produce. The barrels
and the grapes are for them like chil-
dren which need constant attention and
warmth. And then we come in and tell
them that they cannot touch the barrel
from the beginning until the end of the
process; it’s a very difficult proposition.
Bordeaux
deciphering a wine label
»» continued on page 34
1 	Classification
The classification of the
wine or estate. Classified
wines must display said
classification on the label.
2 	 Image or Logo
The logo or Image of the
Château. If a building is
displayed, it must reflect
the actual château.
3 	Estate
The name of the château
or estate whre the wine is
from, i.e. the brand name.
4 	Region
The geographical region
from which the wine
originates.
5 	Appellation or
Sub-Region
The wine’s administrative
region or appellation of
origin. The appellation
laws regulate many
aspects of wine production,
ensuring certain
benchmarks in quality
have been met.
6 	Vintage
The year the grapes were
harvested.
7 	Producer
The producer of the wine.
8 	Alcoholic
Content
The alcohol content of
the wine.
9 	 Bottling Location
Location where the wine
is bottled.
10 	Volume or
Bottle Size
The volume of the bottle.
The standard size is 750ml
11 	Type of Wine
The type of wine. For
example: Table Wine,
Sparkling Wine, Sweet
White Wine etc.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 13
Humor
Congratulations! You’re hosting a Seder!
That means you’ve managed to convince
several relatives to come to your house
and sit there for hours listening to your
kids repeat the same divrei Torah over and
over immediately after their siblings do!
So these relatives are going to need
something to drink.
Unfortunately, you don’t really under-
stand wine, and you’re afraid to ask: Why
are there so many varieties? There are a
lot of varieties of salad dressing, for ex-
ample, but what you usually do is buy one
of each flavor. You can’t do that with wine.
Some wines cost a lot of money. What
are they making it from? Matzah?
So normally you just buy something
that you know you like because someone
at a Shabbos table at some point said,
“Try this one, you’ll like it.”
On the other hand, that might not work,
because you’ve been informed that you
have no taste in wine, just because most
of the wines that you like come in bottles
with screw tops. You can’t even uncork a
bottle of wine without breaking either the
corkscrew or the cork.
Also, you’re wondering: If red wine is
made from red grapes, and white wine
is made from white grapes, then what
happens to green grapes? Also, what’s
mevushal? Is someone boiling the wine?
What does the garbage man think of us
after Pesach, with all these bottles of wine
in the recycling bin? Bear in mind that this
is after several weeks of basically filling up
his entire truck on our block alone.
So how do you pick a wine?
There are several methods:
METHOD ONE
What does it pair with?
One thing you’ve heard is that certain
wines are best paired with certain foods
– like some wines go with meat, and some
go with fish. Pairing a food and a beverage
might sound crazy, but how good is coffee
with donuts? Right? So you pretty much
assume that fancy wine people are actual-
ly dunking their fish into white wine at the
table. But that is none of your business.
So the key here is to figure out what
wine pairs well with marror, for example.
You could also do this by the cup:
METHOD Two
Stare at the bottles.
Go to your local wine store and ask where
they keep the kosher wines. This is an
especially dumb question in a kosher
wine store, but if you live somewhere that
doesn’t specifically have a kosher wine
store and your selection is limited, you
can use that to your advantage.
“This is all they had,” you can tell your
guests.
Of course, one confusing thing about
wine is how come they all have different
names? Some of them are named after
cities, some are named after last names,
and some are named after meforshim.
When did all these meforshim have time
to make wine? Isn’t Shiloh where they
make the siddurim that count the lines of
davening for you? If you buy a bottle of Or
Haganuz Amuka series, is that a segulah
for a shidduch? What does it take to be
a Baron? Are you allowed to have kids?
Personally, I like to choose a wine with
a name I can make fun of, as that’s a
good conversation topic, in case we run
out of things to talk about at the Seder.
Or to talk about when we’re face down on
the street with heartburn.
METHOD Three
Go by the picture.
Ideally get one that has a picture of grapes,
so you know what’s in it. Anything with a
lion is going to be good too. Or a picture
that looks like it was taken from Google
maps. Like you’re going to find the vineyard
yourself by driving around Italy and staring
at the bottle until you get pulled over.
“Are you driving with a bottle of wine?”
“No, I’m using the map. I don’t even
know how to open this.”
METHOD Four
Just pick something already!
At the end of the day, you should proba-
bly just be honest with yourself and pick
the second cheapest wine you can find.
You also want to look for a year that’s not
the current year.
PRESENTING YOUR WINE
Before you drink your wine, open the bot-
tle and allow it to breathe. If it doesn’t look
like it’s breathing, give it mouth-to-mouth.
If you’re not sure how to pronounce
your wine, just leave it on the table when
your guests show up and don’t say any-
thing. The guests will say the name, and
you can pronounce it however they do.
They’ll say, “Oh, Sweet!” (Or, “Oh, dry!”)
“You bought blahblah!”
And then you’ll try to pronounce it like
that for the rest of the meal. Even if it’s
wrong. You’re buying them wine, the least
they can do is tell you how to pronounce it.
We hope this guide was helpful in
helping you pick out some
acceptable wines. Your
garbage man will be
impressed.
PutaC rkinItby Mordechai Schmutter
Wine Pair
Chicken Soup
Jay’s Pairing Suggestions: Almost
as divisive as gefilte fish, but for other
reasons, everyone claims their mother
makes the best chicken soup! Rich
and flavorful with tender carrots and
celery punctuated by herbaceous dill
and parsley, these medium bodied
whites are a great pair for this
wonderful bowl of tradition.
Carmel Selected
Sauvignon Blanc
Israel • $9-$11
Delightfully aromatic with
floral notes and a backdrop
of fresh cut grass. Flavors of
tropical fruit are balanced
with a clean citrusy finish.
Goose Bay
Sauvignon Blanc
New Zealand • $20-$22
A vibrant, crisp Sauvignon
Blanc with a bouquet that
includes Gooseberries, lush
tropical fruit with a slight
hint of oak.
Herzog Reserve
Russian River
Chardonnay
California • $28-$30
Rich and complex, drawing
on pear, citrus, hazelnut, and
mineral flavors, all framed
in a creamy-smooth texture
with plenty of toasty oak.
Everyone has
their favorite
traditional
Passover
dishes, but
what to drink
with them? We sat down
with Jay Buchsbaum,
Director of Wine Education for
Royal Wine Corp., for some
insight on pairing wines this
Passover. For each dish Jay
notes three suggestions
from various locations and at
different price points. Now
onto the food & wine!
Gefilte Fish
with Horseradish
Jay’s Pairing Suggestions: Gefilte
fish is one of those love it or hate it dishes
and I love it! The rich fish flavor with a
touch of sweetness from the carrots cut
by the piquant horseradish (the hotter the
better in my opinion) goes great with a
fresh and fruity white. The theme of the
three picks below are ripe fruit flavors
that evoke a sense of sweetness and stand
up to the “fishiness” of the gefilte fish and
boldness of the horseradish.
Baron Herzog
Chenin Blanc
California • $8-$10
A fresh and round mouth feel
with intense fruity notes of
nectarine, gooseberry and
pine with a bright, clean
finish.
Elvi Cava Brut
Spain • $18-$20
Bubbly and dry, with interesting
floral, mild citrus, and strawber-
ry notes. Crisp and clean with a
lingering finish. Be sure to serve
well chilled.
Carmel Single
Vineyard Kayoumi
White Riesling
Israel • $25-$27
Fragrant, delicate nose of
citrus blossom, green apple
and lime.
ingsWith Jay
Buchsbaum
Brisket
Jay’s Pairing Suggestions:Whatis
Passoverwithoutbrisket?I’mabigfanof
brisket,itsrichandbeefyflavorwithan
equallyrichsauce.(Ibraiseminewitha
fullbottleofwine,andremember,ifyou
wouldn’tdrinkitonitsown,whywould
youcookwithit?)OneofthethingsI
findamazingaboutbrisketishowall
theflavorsandaromascometogether
andsimultaneouslycanbeindividually
pickedout.Ichosesomebigredstopair
thatarebig,boldandwillstanduptothe
richnessofthedish.
Baron Herzog
Old Vine Zinfandel
California • $13-$15
Full bodied wine with rich
concentrated flavors and lush
mouth feel. Big effusive aromas
of ripe blackberry and raspber-
ries balanced with vanilla and
spice from the French oak aging.
Terra di Setta
Chianti Classico
Italy • $20-$25
Full bodied, velvety and elegant.
Slightly balsamic, it offers a
grand structure with a rich and
fruity bouquet of cherries and
wild berries, aromas of spice
and violet.
Domaine du Castel
Grand Vin
Israel • $70-$75
Full-bodied, bold, concentrated,
and with layer after layer of
aromas and flavors that linger
on. Look for currants, cherries,
plums, and spices on the palate,
with hints of cedar.
Lemon Almond Cake
Jay’s Pairing Suggestions:Whata
pleasantwaytoendameal.Whenpairing
wineswithdesserts,youwanttomatch
thesweetness,butnotoverwhelmthe
dessertwithsomethingthatoverpowers
theflavors.Thebrightnessofthelemon
shinesandthealmondsgiveitarichlayer
ofcomplexity.Thewineschosenarede-
lightfulwiththeperfectlevelofsweetness
andaciditytokeepalltheflavorsand
aromasinharmony.
Muscat de
Baumes de Venise
France • $18-$20
Very aromatic, with apricot,
peach, lychee and some can-
died orange peel notes. A touch
of viscosity in the mouth and a
well-balanced acidity.
Herzog Late Harvest
Chenin Blanc
California • $20-$22
Very aromatic nose of honey
and fresh apricot. Sweet but
very well balanced with bright
acidity and a lush and full
mouth feel with lingering fresh
fruit finish.
Binyamina Reserve
Late Harvest
Gewürztraminer
Israel • $26-28
Rich and complex aromas of
tropical fruit, lychee, red grapefruit
and rose water. Its sweetness is
beautifully balanced by a natural
crispness and fruity overtones.
emember, whether
pairing wines with the
latest culinary trends
or dishes passed down for
generations, one thing remains
the same, drink what you like!
Wine is such an important part
of the holiday and can elevate
even the simplest dish, but the
best thing to pair with wine
is family and friends! L’chaim
and have a Chag Kasher
V’Sameach!
16 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
4Eat white wine with fish, red wine with meat.
Certainly red wine goes with fish and white wine
goes with meat. The art is to either match the inten-
sity and body of the wine to the dish, or to contrast
it. And clashes need to be avoided. However, this is an out
of date guide. Today people match wine to mood, not to food.
Drink what you like, and with whatever food. It is quite
simple: good wine goes with good food and what you prefer
is always the best choice.
Wine Myths
by Adam Montefiore
Consumers are drinking more and more wine these
days yet several misconceptions still exist. Adam
Montefiore, Wine Development Director for Carmel
Winery dispels several of these myths…
2Israeli wine is expensive.
I disagree that Israeli wines are expensive. Yes, most of the
trophy wines or the wines that win awards may be rela-
tively expensive, but no more than similar wines in other
countries. Furthermore, most wine journalists seem to write about
the more expensive wines. However, over 95% of sales are for wines
with a shelf price of less than $20, offering real value for money.
5Smell the cork to judge a wine’s quality.
A waiter will often give you the cork to smell, or may
even smell it himself. I have never known a cork to smell
nice, so a bad smelling cork does not indicate a bad wine.
6Quality wines are
stoppered only with
natural cork.
Aesthetically, cork is still the best
closure for wine. However, do not be put off by
the use of synthetic corks or even screw top clo-
sures, which are becoming more and more popular.
Both are fine, even for quality wines.
7Wine must be stored in a wine fridge
Ideally wine should be stored at a perfect 55 to 56
degrees Fahrenheit, in a beautiful wine fridge. This
will give respect to the wine you wish to store and give
it the best chance to be at its peak when you decide to drink it.
It is true that July and August are hot enough to ruin any wine,
with no respect for its quality or price.
However, wine is hardier than you think. If kept sensibly, it
may last surprisingly well. Just try to follow a few basic rules.
The wine should be kept horizontal, or upside-down in its origi-
nal carton. It should be kept away from vibration, away from
heat and direct sunlight.
8Serve white wine cold and red wine
at room temperature.
The biggest problem with wine service is that white
wines are served too cold and red wines too warm. If it
is too cold, a quality white wine will lose its delicate fruit aroma.
Certainly an inexpensive white wine, sparkling wine or sweet
dessert wine should be served very cold. However a Chardon-
nay, Viognier, or Gewurztraminer would benefit by being cold,
but not ice cold.
As far as red wines are concerned, I believe even a quality
red wine should be served after 20 minutes in a fridge. This
will bring it to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit and it will warm
up in the glass. In a hot climate, higher alcohol wines will
soon lose shape if served at room temperature.
Adam S. Montefiore is Wine Development Director for
both Carmel and Yatir Wineries. He writes the weekly
“Wine Talk” column for the Jerusalem Post.
1Taste a wine in a restaurant
to see if you like it.
When you order wine in a restaurant, the
wine waiter will offer you the opportunity
to taste before pouring it.
This is only to check if it
is the wine you ordered
and that it is in good
condition. It is not an op-
portunity to send it back
because you don’t like it!
3A corky wine has bits of cork in it.
A corky wine has a musty smell that
overwhelms any fruit. It is not a wine
with bits of cork floating in it. The
reason is the cork has been contaminated.
A wine such as this may be referred to as
being ‘corked.’
9Once a bottle is open, the
wine does not last.
If you are having dinner at home
and you just want a glass or two,
don’t leave the bottle open at the table.
After you pour what you want, immedi-
ately put the cork back in. (If it does not go
in easily, try it the other way round.) Then
put it in the fridge. The wine will last for a few more days
with no problem, even without use of a wine saving device.
WINEMAG.COM | 1
2 ISRAEL
19 SICILY
31 SARDINIA
31 GERMANY
35 ALSACE
45 SPAIN
51 PORTUGAL
53 NEW ZEALAND
56 ARGENTINA
61 CALIFORNIA
78 OREGON
87 MICHIGAN
87 VIRGINIA
88 NORTH CAROLINA
89 NEW JERSEY
90 SPIRITS
92 BEERS
©68/DANPORGES/OCEAN/CORBIS
2015
APRIL
Valley vineyards at the foot
of Tel Tzova in the Judean
Hills near Jerusalem.
IN THIS MONTH’S
GUIDE
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
BUYINGGUIDE
As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
CHARDONNAY
90 Barkan 2012 Special Reserve Winemakers’
Choice Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Medi-
um-gold in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of
clementine and brioche. It is clean and crisp in
the mouth, with flavors of lime sorbet, vanilla and
toasted bread. It offers a good balance of citrus
fruit and toasty notes right into the bright, lasting
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
90 Tzuba 2012 Chardonnay (Judean Hills).
Deep straw to the eye, this wine offers
a clean nose of ripe seckel pear. There is a nice
interplay between fruit and floral notes, with fla-
vors of pear, butterscotch and white flowers. The
lengthy finish features a mix of smooth tannins
and bright fruit and floral notes. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13%
89 Shiloh Winery 2012 Chardonnay (Judean
Hills). A bouquet of golden apple and
honeydew melon sets the scene for flavors of
melon, lilac, and barely ripe golden apple. It is
smooth on the palate, with fruit and floral notes
playing off each other. The lengthy, sophisticat-
ed finish wraps up on a nice bright note. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.6%
85 Psagot 2012 Chardonnay (Judean Hills).
A nose of lemon and petrol opens into
flavors of lemon, pears, petrol and white flowers,
with slightly overpowering toast notes. Tannins
are a bit stiff for an otherwise bright white that
has a slightly tart finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
poration. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
OTHER WHITE WINES
89 Carmel 2013 Selected Sauvignon Blanc
(Galilee). Aromas of peach and lemon peel
prime the palate for flavors of peach, apricot, and
lemon curd. It’s well balanced, with flavors of ripe
stone fruit and citrus that wash across the palate
and leave a creamy texture in their wake. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 12.5%
89 Domaine Netofa 2013 Estate Bottled
Chenin Blanc (Galilee). Soft aromas of
grapefruit, sage and lavender lead to flavors of
green apple, eucalyptus, and aniseed. This wine
has a pleasant balance of fresh fruit and cool
herbal notes. It is smooth on the palate with a
cooling lemon-rind finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.8% Price: $25
89 Tulip Winery 2013 White Franc (Judean
Hills). This pale apricot-colored semidry
wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon
Blanc. Aromas of butterscotch and nectarine
get the taste buds prepared for flavors of but-
terscotch, peach, rose petal and nutmeg. It is a
gently sweet wine that is not at all cloying, with
nicely balanced acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
poration. —M.D.
abv: 12.5%
88 Tulip Winery 2013 White Tulip (Galilee).
A blend of Gewürztraminer and Sau-
vignon Blanc, this presents a bouquet of melon
and grapefruit. Bold spice flavors, in particular
clove, anise and spearmint, are nicely contrast-
ed against flavors of lemon and lime. It offers a
harmonious balance of baking spices and citrus
notes backed by a strong vein of acidity. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 12.7%
86 Carmel 2012 Single Vineyard Kayoumi
Vineyard White Riesling (Galilee). This
mediumstraw colored wine has a nose of lemon
and tomato leaf. Flavors of lemon, orange, bak-
ing bread and a light cottony feel are ultimately
brightened by a final wash of acidity. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 12.5%
ROSÉS
89 Domaine Netofa 2013 Estate Bottled Rosé
(Galilee). Medium apricot to the eye, this
rosé made from Syrah and Mourvèdre opens with
a bouquet of strawberry and peach. Flavors of gua-
va, anise and clove continue on to a spicy finish
As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
that may be too cool for some yet will be enjoyed
by those who like rosé with a touch of sophistica-
tion. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.9%
88 Flam 2013 Rosé (Judean Hills). Medium
blush in color, this wine has aromas of
guava, melon and strawberry. Cool herbal flavors
meld with zesty fruit, notably anise, soft clove,
guava and grapefruit with hints of butterscotch.
The soft, lingering finish is equal parts smooth and
bright. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13%
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
92 Madmon 2012 Soreka Special Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Shomron). An in-
tense bouquet of blackberry, smoked meat, flint
and violet paves the way for flavors of black
currant, smoked meat, coffee bean and a hint of
cranberry. Rich savory notes mingle with strong
fruit flavors, all marked by a pleasingly persistent
strain of tartness. Smooth, soft tannins prime the
palate for the elegant finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
92 Tzuba 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean
Hills). Deep brick-red in color, this wine
leads with aromas of stewed black fruits, petrol
and green pepper. Flavors of cherry preserves,
smoked meat, vanilla and a pop of tart cherry
make their way across the palate, encased in silky
tannins. The finish is simultaneously cool and
bright. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’
Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14%
91 Carmel 2011 Appellation Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Galilee). A deep black-cherry color,
this wine has aromas of black currant and anise.
Flavors of cherry, chocolate, coffee and orange
peel are joined by a touch of mint. Smooth and
bright, the wine’s velvety tannins coat the mouth
right into the orange-peel finish. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
91 Psagot 2011 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Jerusalem Hills). Inky red-vi-
olet in color, this offers a bouquet of black cherry,
iodine and green pepper. It has flavors of cassis,
blackberry, butterscotch, orange peel and mint,
with nice notes of citrus and cranberry that con-
tinue as the smooth tannins fade on the palate.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.3%
90 Psagot 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean
Hills). Aromas of cassis, black cherry and
summer farm stand are evident in this dark ruby-
colored wine. It is well weighted, with good play
between fruit and herbal flavors. The palate is
filled with notes of black cherry preserves, choco-
late, coffee, eucalyptus and a touch of bell pepper.
Silky tannins and a cooling feeling persist into
the finish, where they are joined by a momentary
splash of brightness. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo-
ration. —M.D.
abv: 14.4%
90 Segal’s 2009 Unfiltered Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Galil). Inky ruby in color, this
wine conveys flavors of tart cherry, cassis, cured
meat and green pepper that are fresher than its
notes of black currant and bell pepper would
suggest. Slightly grippy tannins are pleasantly
outweighed by a vein of cleansing tart cranberry.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Just
Cabernet Sauvignon
2014
winery
winery
750ml|14.5%Alc.byVol.
Product of Israel – contains sulfites
Imported by: Royal Wine Corp. New York, NY
Manufactured and bottled by: Tulip winery ltd – Kfar Tikva, Israel
GOVERNMENT WARNING: (1) ACCORDING TO THE SURGEON
GENERAL, WOMEN SHOULD NOT DRINK ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES
DURING PREGNANCY BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF BIRTH DEFECTS.
(2) CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES IMPAIRS YOUR
ABILITY TO DRIVE A CAR OR OPERATE MACHINERY, AND MAY
CAUSE HEALTH PROBLEMS.
Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Galilee | 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Dry Red Wine
Made of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes harvested
from a vineyard deep in the upper Galilee. The wine
was aged for 6 months in French oak barrels and is
elegant, medium bodied with a delightful fruity finish.
UPC087752014905
Bottlingdate:May.2015
Winemaker
90 Tulip Winery 2012 Just Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Galilee). Aromas of black cherry,
lavender and thyme provide a good introduction
to flavors of cassis, lavender and thyme, with a
hint of smoke and orange peel. Smooth tannins
coat the mouth and are joined on the back palate
by a pleasing jolt of orange zest and tart cranber-
ry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
90 Tulip Winery 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Galilee). Made with 90% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 5% each Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot, this wine offers a bouquet of black cherry,
green pepper and toast. There is a nice balance
of fruit and cooling herb flavors, featuring black-
berry, eucalyptus, anisette and espresso bean.
Lingering, velvety tannins continue on the pal-
ate until a final burst of cranberry on the finish.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by
Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tast-
ers. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting
Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan
Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing
Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSim-
one, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara
Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France;
Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor
Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone,
Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing
Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini-
tialsappearfollowingthenote.Whennoinitialsappearfollowing
a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers
and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters.
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported
to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol
content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyondtherating,weencourageyoutoreadtheaccompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
	 Classic 98–100: 	 The pinnacle of quality.
	 Superb 94–97: 	 A great achievement.
	 Excellent 90–93: 	 Highly recommended.
	 Very Good 87–89: 	 Often good value; well recommended.
	 Good 83–86: 	 Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
	 Acceptable 80–82: 	 Can be employed in casual, less
critical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar
to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designa-
tiondoesnotmeanthataproductmustbestoredtobeenjoyed,
but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle.
In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every
effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is
no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that
reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be ac-
companied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be
downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are giv-
en the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
89 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’
Choice Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Gar-
net in the glass, this wine has aromas of blackber-
ry and green pepper. Flavors of cassis, black cher-
ry, vanilla, coffee, butterscotch and green pepper
remain bright in contrast to the wine’s savory
notes. It is soft on the palate with a quick, bright
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
89 Carmel 2013 Selected Cabernet Sauvignon
(Shomron). Deep red-violet in color, this of-
fers aromas of black cherry, vanilla and soft baking
spice. Flavors of cassis, licorice, black peppercorn
and a touch of green pepper stay strong amid per-
sistent yet soft tannins. The lasting finish is marked
by notes of butterscotch and orange peel. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
86 Shiloh Winery 2011 Secret Reserve Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Enticing
aromas of black cherry conserves on toast lead to
flavors of stewed cherries and raspberry, with lic-
orice and clove notes. The deep fruit flavors are
overly ripe and powerful. Although the flavors
work well together, the wine lacks brightness.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 15.2%
MERLOT
91 Flam 2011 Reserve Merlot (Galilee). A bou-
quet of cranberry, tobacco and espresso
bean paves the way for flavors of black cherry, euca-
lyptus, tobacco and leather. There is a pleasing bal-
ance of fruit and tobacco flavors amid mouth-coat-
ing tannins, leading to a nice iodine note on the
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
.(‫וגרפיקה‬ ‫ברקוד‬ ,‫טקסט‬ ,‫)גודל‬ ‫המלאה‬ ‫רצונך‬ ‫לשביעות‬ ‫בוצעה‬ ‫הגרפיקה‬ ‫כי‬ ‫בזאת‬ ‫מאשר‬ ‫הנך‬ ‫זה‬ ‫מסמך‬ ‫על‬ ‫בחתימתך‬ !‫נכבד‬ ‫לקוח‬
‫מחדש‬ ‫הגרפיקה‬ ‫כל‬ ‫את‬ ‫לבדוק‬ ‫יש‬ ‫התיקונים‬ ‫בקבלת‬ ,‫חוזר‬ ‫בפקס‬ ‫ולשלוח‬ ‫הטופס‬ ‫ע“ג‬ ‫ברורה‬ ‫בצורה‬ ‫לתקן‬ ‫נא‬ ‫תיקונים‬ ‫וישנם‬ ‫במידה‬
.‫בלבד‬ ‫אחריותך‬ ‫ועל‬ ‫שאושרו‬ ‫הפרמטרים‬ ‫ע“פ‬ ‫ההדפסה‬ ‫תבוצע‬ ‫חתימתך‬ ‫לאחר‬ .‫זה‬ ‫מסמך‬ ‫על‬ ‫לחתום‬ ‫יש‬ ‫תקינותם‬ ‫וידוא‬ ‫לאחר‬ ‫ורק‬ ‫שבוצעו‬ ‫התיקונים‬ ‫לרבות‬
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
‫פנימי‬ ‫חור‬ ‫קוטר‬‫חיצוני‬ ‫קוטר‬‘‫יח‬ ‫בגליל‬ ‫כמות‬ ‫גלילה‬ ‫כיוון‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫לציין‬ ‫נא‬
:‫המאשר‬ ‫שם‬:‫חתימה‬:‫תאריך‬
:‫מיוחדות‬ ‫בקשות‬
‫נס-ציונה‬ ,4 ‫המסגר‬ ‘‫רח‬
08-6226222 :‫טלפון‬
08-6226200 :‫פקס‬
28197 :‫פאר‬ ‫הזמנה‬ ‘‫מס‬
st9026f :‫מק“ט‬
‫ברקן‬ :‫לקוח‬ ‫שם‬:‫אוטומטית‬ ‫הדבקה‬
4 :‫גילגול‬ ‘‫מס‬
‫קרם‬ ‫רוסטיק‬ :‫גלם‬ ‫חומר‬
‫מרטה‬ :‫לידי‬
‘‫ק‬ ‫חו“ל‬ ‫מרלו‬ ‫רזרב‬ ‫ספיישל‬ :‫הקובץ‬ ‫שם‬
-‫גודל‬:‫קדמית‬116.3/119.3
:‫קדמית‬
:‫צווארון‬
:‫צווארון‬
:‫אחורית‬
:‫אחורית‬
24.11.13 :‫תאריך‬
:‫חדשה‬ ‫עבודה‬
:‫חוזרת+שינוי‬‫עבודה‬
‫אמנון‬ :‫גרפי‬ ‫תיקון‬
:‫פרוצס‬
:‫פנטונים‬
:‫פוייל‬:‫הבלטה‬
:‫אחר‬
: ‫שטנץ‬
:‫לוחות‬1
1
:‫פוייל‬ :‫הבלטה‬
Black 6
foil kruz
Cut
4767501872200
‫חדש‬‫קיים‬
‫חדש‬‫קיים‬ ‫חדשה‬‫קיימת‬
:uv/‫משי‬
‫חדשה‬‫קיימת‬‫סה“כ‬ ‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬
‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬
‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬
‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬
‫סופיים‬ ‫קבצים‬ ‫בצרוף‬ ‫חוזר‬ ‫אימל‬ ‫או‬ 08-6226224/200 ‫בפקס‬ ‫לאשר‬ ‫נא‬
76390 4
750ml 13% Alc./Vol.
GALILEE - RED WINE
90 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’
Choice Merlot (Galilee). Aromas of cara-
mel, black cherry and sea salt are evident in this
deep garnet-colored wine. Flavors of black cher-
ry, tobacco and caramel are marked by a hint of
green pepper.Chewy tannins are nicely balanced
by an herbaceous burst and a bright splash on the
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13%
90 Psagot 2012 Merlot (Judean Hills). Dark
black cherry to the eye, this has a tantaliz-
ing bouquet of raspberry, black cherry and iodine
with a touch of brambles. The palate offers a so-
phisticated mélange of blackberry and black cher-
ry with strong notes of leather and toffee. Taking
the grippy tannins into account, the wine offers
surprisingly good fruity brightness into the lasting
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
SHIRAZ/SYRAH
91 Flam 2011 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). En-
ticing aromas of black cherry, sage and
smoke lay the groundwork for flavors of black
cherry, mint, smoked meat and vanilla bean. A
pleasure to drink, this smooth wine ends on a
nice bright note, with a lingering cooling sensa-
tion. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
90 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’
Choice Shiraz (Galilee). Deep garnet in the
glass, this has a nose of blackberry and vanilla.
Flavors of blackberry, eucalyptus, tart cherry and
white chocolate are well balanced, with a mix
of fruity and savory notes. Tannins are mostly
smooth with a touch of grip. The finish combines
a pleasing blend of eucalyptus and tart cherry
flavors. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
winery
Mostly Shiraz
2013
winery
750ml | 15.2% Alc. by Vol.
Product of Israel – contains sulfites
Imported by: Royal Wine Corp., New York, NY
Manufactured and bottled by: Tulip Winery Ltd – Kfar Tikva, Israel
GOVERNMENT WARNING: (1) ACCORDING TO THE SURGEON
GENERAL, WOMEN SHOULD NOT DRINK ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES
DURING PREGNANCY BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF BIRTH DEFECTS.
(2) CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES IMPAIRS YOUR
ABILITY TO DRIVE A CAR OR OPERATE MACHINERY, AND MAY
CAUSE HEALTH PROBLEMS.
Mostly Shiraz 2013 | Galilee
85% Shiraz, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Dry Red Wine
This wine is a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes
harvested from Kfar Yuval vineyard, situated in the Upper
Galilee. The wine was aged for 12 months in oak barrels and is
full bodied and robust with an aroma of blackberries, mint,
eucalyptus and toasted wood with a delightful fruity finish.
UPC087752015810
Bottlingdate:Feb.2015
Winemaker
90 Tulip Winery 2011 Mostly Shiraz (Galilee).
Made with 85% Shiraz and 15% Cabernet
Sauvignon, this inky garnet-colored wine offers
a bouquet of black currant and cherry-vanilla.
Flavors of cassis, raspberry, mint tea and tan-
gerine zest play across the tongue in a network
of barely-there tannins. Brightness dominates a
velvety finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation.
—M.D.
abv: 14%
85 Tzuba 2010 Metzuda Syrah (Judean Hills).
This deep ruby-colored wine has a bou-
quet of black cherry with hints of smoked meat
and red bell pepper. Flavors of smoked meat
and cherry pie with notes of orange peel never
completely coalesce. There are some pleasant
moments on the palate, but they don’t all come
together at the same time. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
RED BLENDS
93 Shiloh Winery 2010 Legend (Judean Hills).
Dark violet-red in color, this is a blend of
40% Petite Sirah, 35% Petit Verdot and 25% Shi-
raz. A bouquet of cherry, violet and mesquite lay
the groundwork for a wining mélange of savory
fruit flavors–think cherry, strawberry, smoke
flint, jasmine and orange peel. Smooth tannins
lead the way to an orange-rind finish, with a hint
of smoke and a slight umami feeling on the pal-
ate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. –M.D.
abv: 14.9%
92 Domaine du Castel 2011 Grand Vin
(Haut-Judeé). Deep ruby to the eye, this
blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot
and 5% Petit Verdot has a bouquet of coffee and
black currant preserves. It offers a frankly gor-
geous interplay between fruit and cool herbal
flavors, with black cherry joined on the palate
by licorice, eucalyptus, butterscotch and flint.
The drawn-out finish offers a surprisingly bright
burst that inspires taking the next sip. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
91 Domaine Netofa 2011 Red Wine (Galilee).
This blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre has
a sophisticated nose of blackberry, bramble and
a touch of smoked meat. Flavors of black cherry,
cranberry and smoke come with a hint of leather.
This is a soft, easy-drinking wine, with smooth
tannins that gently fade to a splash of cranberry.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13%
As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
90 Domaine Netofa 2011 Latour Netofa Es-
tate Bottled Syrah-Mourvèdre (Galilee).
A blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this wine has
a bouquet of cherry and smoke. Well-integrated
tannins support flavors of cherry, vanilla and
cranberry, with light smoky notes that endure
into the zesty finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo-
ration. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
91 Psagot 2011 Edom (Judean Hills). Aromas
suggest blueberry, coffee and orange
rind. The nice marriage of cooked and fresh fruit
flavors with cool herbal notes includes blueber-
ry, black cherry, anise, eucalyptus, coffee, pencil
lead and violet. Tannins come on strong but back
off appropriately, and the pleasing finish includes
lasting touches of leather and tart cherry. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
91 Shiloh Winery 2010 Legend II (Judean
Hills). This blend of 70% Cabernet Sau-
vignon, 25% Carignan and 5% Sangiovese offers
aromas of blackberry, plum and soy sauce. Tan-
nins and bright acidity swirl around the palate
in a pleasant cloud of smoke, featuring flavors of
mint, anise, soy sauce and ripe red plum. The soft
finish is smoky, with a tart flash. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
90 Alexander 2012 Sandro (Upper Galilee).
This all-over-the-lot blend of 55% Caber-
net Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot, 10%
Cabernet Franc, 7% Grenache and 3% Sauvignon
Blanc makes more sense in the mouth than it
does on paper. It offers aromas of tart cherry, but-
terscotch and vanilla bean. A variety of textures
and flavors plays across the palate, notably black
cherry, smoked meat, iodine, toffee and a touch
of green pepper. Smooth tannins are evident
throughout, until notes of iodine and lemon zest
take over at the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
poration. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
90 Alexander 2009 The Great Amarolo (Israel).
A blend of 40% each Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc,
and 3% each Mourvèdre and Grenache, this wine
is made from grapes that are dried for 50 days
prior to fermentation. The finished wine is aged
in barrel for 40 months prior to bottling, yet it is
surprisingly soft in the mouth and equal parts
smooth and bright. Aromas of raspberry, black
plum and maple give way to flavors of strawber-
ry, cranberry sauce, maple-cured meat and rose
petal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 15.5%
90 Carmel 2010 Carmel Mediterranean (Gal-
ilee). This red blend delivers aromas
of raspberry, aniseed, sage and thyme. On the
palate, lively flavors of black cherry, licorice, or-
ange rind and violet are encased in silky tannins,
offering a smooth interplay between rich mouth-
feel and bright acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
poration. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
90 Flam 2012 Classico (Judean Hills). This
blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%
Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot
is dark garnet in the glass, offering a slightly wild
nose of blackberry and green pepper. Flavors of
cassis, blackberry, toffee and leather are joined by
a potent burst of cranberry. Well-integrated fla-
vors continue into the lasting finish, which offers
comforting warmth before culminating in a jolt of
acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
Bottle of 6300
2012
90 Tulip Winery 2011 Black Tulip (Galilee).
This Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend
is deep red-violet in color, with a nose of black
cherry and Tuscan peppers. Cool notes trump
fruit in a mélange of black cherry, vanilla, mint
and aniseed flavors with a hint of brambles. Stiff
but forgiving tannins linger on the palate with a
flash of acidity at the back of the throat. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 15.5%
88 Montefiore 2011 Karem Moshe (Judean
Hills). Dark red-violet in color, this of-
fers aromas of cherry, seawater and molasses,
while flavors suggest cherry, cranberry, smoked
meat, mocha, mint and eucalyptus. Cool notes
outweigh fruit flavors, leading to a sense that
something is off balance. Strong tannins back off
on a bright finish that fails to diminish the minty
notes. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14%
OTHER RED WINES
92 Alexander 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc
(Galilee). Dark ruby in the glass, this
wine has a bouquet of black cherry, jalapeño and
celery root that continually invites you back for
another sniff. There is a terrific balance between
fruit and savory flavors, which include black cur-
rant, cherry, white chocolate, mint and jalapeño.
Smooth tannins go on and on until they are final-
ly punctuated by a bright cranberry note. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 13.8%
91 Psagot 2011 Cabernet Franc (Judean Hills).
A nose of black cherry, butterscotch and
clove sets the stage for similar flavors that are
elevated by cassis and a touch of bramble. It of-
fers a good balance of mouth-pleasing fruit and
seductive butterscotch and baking spice notes,
all wrapped in a web of smooth tannins. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
90 Shiloh Winery 2011 Shor Barbera (Judean
Hills). A bouquet of plum, butterscotch
and vanilla sets the stage for flavors of blackberry,
strawberry, clove, violet and espresso bean. This
is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins and
a bright, lasting finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
poration. —M.D.
abv: 14.3%
As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
From the
Kitchen4 Questions
for 4 Chefs
who are redefining
kosher cuisine
Has a wine ever inspired you to create a dish?
What was the wine?
Herzog Single Vineyard Syrah, 2012. Around
winter I had so many ideas, spice profiles on my
mind and I didn’t know quite how to create/
categorize them into any one dish. That is
until I tried the Herzog Special Reserve Syrah.
Sometimes it takes a wine to help guide you and
once you taste that amazing first sip the dish
starts plating itself in your head, and all those
ideas come together. A lamb tagine cooked with
cinnamon, clove, coriander, and cumin is what
ended up coming from those thoughts, and was
a big hit at one of our wine club dinners.
How do you think food and wine pairing has
changed in the last few years?
With so many varietals available and flavor
profiles in food there is no end to being creative.
I have always considered wine somewhat like
technology; with varietals always changing
depending on the year; I believe pairing food
and wine is only as hard as you make it. I am just
excited that we have so many varietals that we
can broaden the field and bring multiple wines
into any one dish.
What suggestions do you have for guests
picking a wine at a restaurant?
Rule #1 is not to be scared! Ask for suggestions
from your server, keep tasting wine until you
find something your palate just loves. Keep an
open mind. Just because you have never had
that certain varietal, does not mean your
palate won’t enjoy it.
Any traditional wine pairing rules you
want to throw out the window?
The concept of “white with fish and
chicken” or red’s with meat. All of
this is based on your ingredients in a
dish not to mention your palate. It
sounds like something from the 80’s.
Wine has evolved tremendously
and so should people’s palates
and knowledge of wine and food.
Always keep that door open and
explore new things when it comes
to food and wine.
Gabe Garcia
Executive Chef
Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 23
Has a wine ever inspired you to create a
dish? What was the wine?
Years ago, I had a robust Barolo with heavy
tannins and a full mouth feel. All I wanted
was a hearty and rich lamb shank stew. A
wine that has so many intricate flavors and
aromas demands an equally complex dish.
The two paired perfectly, and the dish was
the special the following day.
How do you think food and wine pairing has
changed in the last few years?
I have found that people have begun to
be more willing to rotate through various
varietals throughout a single meal, or even
getting adventurous and going against the
“rules” of wine by drinking fuller bodied
reds with fish, for example.
What suggestions do you have for guests
picking a wine at a restaurant?
Don’t always go for the mainstream wines
and familiar brands. Boutique wineries are
often able to offer wines made from unique
or lesser-known varietals. Take a chance. You
never know what you might discover.
What do you like to drink when you’re
enjoying a meal?
I enjoy spicy food, and a dry, crisp rosé, such
as the Goose Bay Blanc de Pinot Noir, goes
nicely with a spicy Asian dish.
Hok Chin
Executive Chef
Reserve Cut NYC
How do you think food and wine pairing
has changed in the last few years?
I feel it has become more to the point
and on a more approachable front. These
days not so many people can spend four
solid hours on food and wine tastings. If
you do it right, all the contrasts will come
together in an approachable way. Most
are a bit scared to go in for food and wine
pairings. Keep it real and approachable
and people open up.
What suggestions do you have for guests
picking a wine at a restaurant?
Stay in your budget. Know the body of
your favorite wine, the fruit and acidity.
Are they bold and fruit driven? Tannic?
Long lived? You can find affordable and
amazing wines in your budget. You don’t
have to go into your savings for a good
bottle if you know your likes. And a true
good sommelier will be able to help you
to achieve this.
What do you feel is the most
underrated varietal?
Zinfandel, a true full bodied red
Zin. Most think it’s the sweet white or even
rosé Zin. Some Zinfandels can even stand
up to “the over-popular Cabernet”.
Any traditional wine pairing rules you
want to throw out the window?
Like a movie critic telling you which
flick is good and entertaining.
One man’s interests or likes aren’t
always the same as another’s.
Wine pairing rules were made
as guidelines. Why put rules
to a person’s likes or tastes?
Just because a knowledgeable
person wrote it doesn’t mean
it has to be followed.
David Kolotkin
Executive Chef
The Prime Grill
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 25
Has a wine ever inspired you to create a
dish? What was the wine?
A couple of years ago I had stopped by my
local farmers market and picked up some
just-picked fruit. My car smelled of the
perfectly ripe cantaloupes and strawberries.
On my way to work I passed a giant billboard
advertising the Bartenura Moscato...you know
the one, in the blue bottle. With the sight of
the billboard and the scent of the fruit, I just
knew that the first thing I’d cook that day
would be a cold, refreshing soup. The wine
was just the right amount of sweet-fruitiness
and effervescence that I needed. Very rarely
does a billboard really speak to me, but there
it was, and I couldn’t wait to get to work!
How do you think food and wine pairing has
changed in the last few years?
The kosher clientele has become more
educated about wine, as well as food. No
longer is wine just considered a celebratory
beverage. Wines are more prevalent on a
menu and are offered as a more integral part
of the meal. Our guests are willing to add
the flavors and nuances of wine to their ever
evolving palate’s repertoire. I notice that a lot
of our regular customers like to change it up.
They don’t even look at the menu anymore,
but only order from the specials list. This in
turn holds true for their choice of wine. They
are experimenting with new flavors from my
kitchen, and new wines from the cellar.
What do you like to drink when
you’re enjoying a meal?
This is a tough question! There’s just so much
to choose from. With summer just around the
corner, when I’m cooking more of the lighter fish
and salads, a Sauvignon Blanc is my go-to wine.
Any traditional wine pairing rules
you want to throw out the window?
Open that window wide, and throw
out the red with meat and white
with fish rule! There are so many
wonderful flavors to wine—why
lock into a narrow category?
Many people start with light
wines, and increase the depth
as their meal moves along.
This is not always so for me.
I can appreciate a rib eye with
a big Cabernet, followed by a
salad with a crisp and lighter
Chardonnay. Just as the rules of
food have changed, so can the
rules of wine.
Jeff Nathan
Executive Chef
Abigael’s on Broadway
give your glass a raise.
kosher for passover and all year round.
P
28 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
Did You Know?All about Herzog Wine Cellars
Herzog Wine Cellars opened in 2005, but Baron Herzog wines have been made in California since 1985.
Herzog Wine Cellars is the largest winery outside of Israel
dedicated exclusively to Kosher wines.
When opened, Herzog Wine
Cellars was the most modern
winery built in Ventura County.
The winery continues to use the
most innovative wine producing
technology available while main-
taining a connection to their
wine producing roots dating
back 9 generations.
Herzog Wine Cellars is located
in Oxnard, California, the southern
gateway to the Central Coast wine
region about an hour north of
Los Angeles.
At any given time, there are
over 3,500 wine barrels aging
at the winery.
Herzog Wine Cellars uses the
best fruit possible from the
best vineyards in the regions of the
state best suited to growing each
grape variety. We work directly
with winegrowers in all the
major Californian appellations in-
cluding Sonoma, Napa, Lodi, Santa
Barbara County, Monterey County
and Paso Robles.
The dedication to
using only the finest
fruit throughout California
was the inspiration behind
this year’s newest Herzog
Wine Cellars introduction,
Variations, a series of
wines made from a blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon
grapes from some of
California’s most storied
wine regions.
The Tank Room at Herzog Wine Cellars has 70 different
tanks which hold about 500,000 gallons of wine. Each
tank is temperature controlled and individually monitored to
produce ideal conditions for each varietal of wine.
Head Winemaker Joe Hurliman has been
with Herzog Wine Cellars for nearly 20 years
and has played a central role in the design
and construction of the winery. His wine-
making philosophy produces balanced
and elegant wines that celebrate the
subtleties of both the grape varietals
and the regions in which they are grown.
Herzog Wine Cellars is home to
Tierra Sur, a perennial award
winner and the highest Zagat rated
restaurant (kosher or otherwise) in
Ventura County, California!
Both the Herzog
Wine Cellars and The
Herzog Wine Club offer
exclusive limited
edition wines you won’t
find in any stores.
“The Herzog family
heritage and passion
for truly excellent wine
making is inspiring to me.
From the grapes that we
use, to the dedication that our
cellar crew pours in to each
bottle, every aspect allows the
wine to evolve freely – really
letting the wine ‘speak’ and
shape the process.”
Joe Hurliman, Head Wine Maker,
Herzog Wine Cellars
Herzog Wine Cellars has produced either a gold medal, 90+ rated
or Best Buy wine every year since they opened their doors.
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 29
Fine Wine
The story of a frum, female enologist by Bracha Rosman
“I’m not the winemaker,” she clarifies.
“Joe does that. I’m the enologist. Joe
makes vineyard decisions—what to buy,
when to pick, etc. He’s like a director,
giving all of us the instructions and guid-
ance to do our individual tasks.”
Without all the scientific terms and jar-
gon, enology is the science of winemaking.
“Our understanding of winemaking
allows us greater control over quality.
People have been making wine for thou-
sands of years; the scientific understand-
ing of the components and the process
allows modern winemakers to know the
reasons they may experience certain sit-
uations, and why certain wines age well
and others don’t.”
Alicia’s work is fascinating, as is the
story of her becoming frum. Her eyes
sparkle as her tale unfolds. “There were
Fine Wine
several moments that brought me to
observant Judaism. I grew up seeking
more than my family was practicing,
but I didn’t know where to find it. I
went to Paris as an au pair (nanny) and
was placed with a secular Jewish family.
Around Chanukah time, I was speaking
with the youngest, a boy of seven, about
the holiday and traditions surrounding
it. He didn’t know what the letters on
the dreidel meant. It was shocking to
me; even then, I understood the tragedy
of a young boy not knowing anything
about a well-known Jewish holiday.
When I came back to the U.S., I started
keeping kosher after reading books by
Rabbi Joseph Telushkin. I had no idea
I would end up talking to the author 20
years later, working as a kosher wine-
maker and covering my hair!”
Early Friday morning, I set out for
an hour-long drive to Oxnard,
California, to the renowned Her-
zog Wine Cellars. There, among the
strawberry fields and rich farmland, I
am scheduled to interview Alicia Wilbur,
who is, in all probability, the only frum
woman to hold the position of enologist.
The first thing I notice upon meeting
Alicia is the stylish tichel she’s wear-
ing. Later, I find out that she generally
wears a tichel to the lab because she
wants to be easily identified as a reli-
gious woman, and because exposure
to various chemicals and compounds
is not too sheitel-friendly.
Alicia takes me to a nicely furnished
conference room, where we shmooze
about her work and personal life. It is ev-
ident that Alicia loves her work.
e · nol’o · gist
A specialist in
winemaking
Enologist
Reprinted with permission from Binah Magazine
30 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
“To me, kosher wine was sweet Con-
cord grape wine. I thought I would go
into winemaking to expand kosher wine,
to make it elegant and serious.”
Little did Alicia know just how sophis-
ticated kosher wine had become.
“I was just beginning to learn about
wine in general, and getting to know a
new wine every week. I loved working
in Jewish communal service, but I wasn’t
interested in pursuing that as a career. I
moved to Sonoma, started working as a
harvest intern and in a tasting room, and
decided to go to school to learn how to
make wine.
“I went to Fresno State because they
have a working commercial winery, and
I was more interested in practical expe-
rience versus research. It was a rigorous,
scientific program. We learned microbi-
ology, chemistry, and plant physiology,
along with winemaking practices. I grad-
uated with a B.S. in Enology and a minor
in Chemistry. I also became a Certified
Sommelier through the Court of Master
Sommeliers in 2012.”
A sommelier is a trained wine profes-
sional, normally working in a restaurant
directing the wine program and/or
acting as the expert guide for diners in
choosing their meal pairings. Certified is
level two of four (fourth level, or Master
Sommelier, is exceedingly difficult to ob-
tain. Only 21 U.S. women hold the title).
After meeting with Alicia, I speak to
Mr. Motty Herzog, vice president of
Herzog Winery, to get his take on work-
ing with Alicia.
He states that he is proud of the work
Alicia performs. “She has a sophisticated
palate, which is a must for an enologist
and winemaker. She’s educated, articu-
late, and excellent at what she does. She’s
also very hands-on.”
Joe, the head winemaker, isn’t Jewish,
so he is not allowed to touch the wine
or, for that matter, the grapes once
the process begins. Now that Alicia is
there, they no longer have to employ a
Jewish middleman to handle the grapes
and wine. She has gone the extra mile,
Herzog Wine Cellars
So where do winemaking and Yiddish-
keit tie together?
“It was an obvious connection for me
to combine my passion for Judaism
with my budding passion for wine.
Wine has a central role in our rituals
and in our simchos. I believe what we
do is holy. Being involved on a daily
basis in bringing a necessary and holy
thing into people’s lives is a responsi-
bility I take very seriously.”
Alicia’s interest in wine at the time
of her becoming frum was truly a gift
from Hashem. It allowed her to grow as
a Jewish woman and as a skilled, frum
enologist, as wine plays a key factor in
Yiddishkeit. She is as passionate about
winemaking as she is about Yiddishkeit,
and finds the two incredibly intertwined.
“I didn’t consider myself fully a baalas te-
shuvah before my wedding… and even
after that, it was a long journey to becom-
ing frum. My interest and knowledge of
wine was well developed before I became
religious, even though I was growing in
observance the entire time.
“My first exposure to fine wine was
serving at an upscale restaurant. I was
working concurrently as the program di-
rector for Santa Cruz Hillel Foundation,
where for the first time, I had to consider
the kashrus of food, and schedule events
around the Jewish calendar.
“I grew up in a Reform household
where those things just weren’t even on
my radar. I had no idea Shabbat had offi-
cial start and ending times until my job
with Hillel. So I had this great exposure
to living authentic Judaism, and still be-
ing part of the world around me.
“Hillel did a wine-tasting event in
LA, and we brought Benyamin Cantz
of Four Gates winery with us. I used
some of my newly acquired wine words,
something like ‘Wow, this wine is really
jammy.’ Benyamin said, ‘I didn’t know
you knew about wine.’ That moment
changed the course of my life. I thought,
‘This is it—a winemaker thinks I know
something about wine—he must be
right!” It was hubris, of course; I knew
absolutely nothing about wine, but that
was the moment of epiphany for me.
It was an obvious
connection for me to
combine my passion
for Judaism with my
budding passion
for wine.
Fine Wine
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 31
A typical day for me
is performing analysis
in the lab, ensuring
stable fermentations
during crush, and
making sure the wine
is ready to bottle
after crush.
driving forklifts from harvest, crushing
grapes, and then some, even though it’s
not in her official job description.
All in all, the Herzogs are just as
thrilled with Alicia as she is with being
Herzog Winery’s enologist.
“It is exciting to be a frum woman in
my position. I feel it is important for
women to remain visible, to be well
educated, and committed to their val-
ues. I have a box on my desk, and I
put money in it every time I get the
comment, ‘You’re a woman!’ followed
by, ‘And you do this?’ I intend to do-
nate the money to a nonprofit organi-
zation that supports STEM—Science,
Technology, Engineering, and Math—
education for young girls and STEM
careers for women.”
Aliciatakesmeupstairstoadoormarked
“restricted authorized personnel only.”
“Wow!” is my first reaction. Wine-
making has really evolved from the
foot-stomping method of yesteryear!
The lab is filled with beakers and cyl-
inders, an incubator, microscope, wine
samples, a variety of machinery, and so
much more. She names each appara-
tus as we pass it, and gives me a brief
explanation as to its function. She in-
troduces me to the winemaker and as-
sistant winemaker, then shows me her
desk, where photos of her adorable chil-
dren are displayed. Her white lab coat,
pressed and starched, is hanging on a
hook together with her purse. Alicia is
just as at home in the lab as most wom-
en are in the kitchen.
“A typical day for me is performing
analysis in the lab, ensuring stable fer-
mentations during crush, and making
sure the wine is ready to bottle after
crush. We spend a lot of time down in
the cellar tasting the barrel lots, and
bringing samples upstairs for blending
trials. Blending is a unique and magical
thing, and a very fun part of winemak-
ing. Even a small percentage of a differ-
ent barrel lot or wine type can make a
huge difference in the overall blend.”
Alicia is part of the blending team. The
winemaker, assistant winemaker, and
Alicia can spend months blending sam-
ples of wine to create the perfect recipe.
Then Alicia continuously analyzes each
barrel to assure the wines are sound. She
monitors them on a monthly basis to
make sure the wine is bacteria-free.
I wonder how many new combina-
tions can be thought up. I find out that
winemaking is kind of like songwriting,
and the combinations are almost infinite.
Alicia surprises me with the fact that
there are between three and five thou-
sand varieties of grapes in the world. The
Herzogs use one to two dozen varieties
to make their wine. Every element of
winemaking, from the grapes to the cli-
mate, wind, and soil, results in a differ-
ent tasting wine. Of course, Hashem in
His greatness is the deciding factor.
“A kosher winery is closed during
Shabbos and Yom Tov. That may not
seem significant from the outside,
except when you think about when
harvesting traditionally takes place—
which is smack in the middle of our
holidays. It creates a scheduling co-
nundrum. When Yom Tov begins on
Sunday, we are away from the winery
Friday through Tuesday. That’s a big
deal when we have several tons of fruit
out in the vineyard ready to be picked!
Or when we have gorgeous, high-end
cabernet we just inoculated for fer-
mentation, and now we have to walk
away! This is when we really have to
place faith in Hashem, and trust that
it’s all going to be okay.”
Alicia is very spiritual and devout.
She is happy her family lives close to
her children’s school and her job. It
makes things easier all around. Their
Jewish upbringing is important to both
her and her husband as well as a source
of much pride.
“When Joe called me about this posi-
tion, my family was living in New York,
where I was working as a wine director
and sommelier. I interviewed with the
Herzogs during Chol Hamoed Pesach.
When they offered me the job, there
was absolutely no question I would take
it. I was scheduled to start the begin-
ning of June, when two of my children
would still be in school. In order to take
the position, I moved back to Califor-
nia with my eight-month-old, leaving
my husband and other children in New
York. I had to find a community, a house,
and schools for the children all on my
own, with a baby and a new job. I woke
up every day feeling like I was about to
jump off a cliff. But there was no ques-
tion I was going to do it! It is a dream
come true. It only happened because of
Hashem. And everyday is an exercise in
trusting G-d.”
Alicia hopes to be a winemaker one
day, and with her talent and sophisticat-
ed palate, learning the business aspects
of the industry, mentoring under Joe,
perhaps we will see her signature on a
wine bottle in the soon-to-be future, as
the world’s first and only frum female
winemaker.
Bracha Rosman is a published author. Her latest
novel, Never Too Late, is in bookstores now.
Fine Wine
32 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
How does the origin of the wine
impact the taste?
Wine is a natural product, which means
that each region has a distinct environ-
ment that is conducive to various grapes
and varying styles. Some countries,
especially the old world wine growing
areas, like France, Portugal and Spain,
have legal requirements mandating
the grower to grow certain grapes in
specially designated areas. For example,
if a grower owned land in Bordeaux (the
name of a geographical area), France,
and he wanted to farm Pinot Noir
grapes on his land, that wouldn’t be le-
gal. Each area has a unique climate and
soil. The climate in the origin/region
will influence the style and taste of the
wine. The soil plays an important role
in the taste and style of the wine.
What makes a wine expensive?
There are four factors that play a role
in the ultimate price of a bottle of wine;
the cost of the grapes, labor costs, the
quality of the oak barrels the wine ages
in and the time a wine must age at the
winery before it is released.
The price of grapes really has more
to do with the price of real estate. As
the old adage goes; location, location,
location. Napa and Alexander Valley are
considered to be some of the best wine
growing regions in the world. Obvious-
ly the price of land in those areas will
be significantly higher than land in the
lesser known areas. The grapes grown
on this land will cost up to 20 times
more than grapes grown 100 miles
away in the central coast of California.
Another factor related to the grapes is
the yield. The yield is how many tons
of grapes are grown per acre of land.
Less is more in this case. If there are less
grapes these grapes get more sun and
better energy from the soil. Lower
yield means higher prices.
Barrels can cost anywhere from $600
to $4000 per barrel. Each barrel will
have its own unique signature on the
finished wine.
The cost of labor for premium wines
is generally higher as the grapes are
hand-picked to make sure only the best
grapes make it into the wine.
Age; a premium wine can be aged in
any combination of barrel and bottle
for up to three years before it’s released
by the winery. This means the manu-
facturer invests 3 years into the product
before he sells his first bottles. Some
examples of premium wines are Herzog
Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet and
Alexander Valley Cabernet.
I have been drinking wine on
Shabbos and Yom Tov for the
last year or so and know that I
really like Cabernet Sauvignon.
But this Yom Tov I want to try
something new like a Merlot or
Shiraz but I’m scared I won’t like
it. Is there really such a differ-
ence between these wines?
People often get hooked on a certain
wine and don’t really try new ones.
That’s a mistake – the whole fun with
wine is trying new things, different
types of varietals and new regions. It’s
like going on vacation – you want to
see new places as often as possible. Each
region has its own climate and soil,
which influences the flavors of its wines.
Of course, the wine maker also plays
an important role in terms of style and
character of the wine. As for different
types of wine, mostly they are made
of different grapes, each of which will
have its own character.
So yes, there are differences, but think
of them like the differences between
apple varieties or cuts of meat. They are
all in the same family, but have subtle
(or sometimes not so subtle) differences
in taste, texture, etc.
How does one pair a wine to food?
Wine is the only beverage that enhances
the taste of food, especially savory foods.
While water is neutral to food, soda and
juices are sweet and disrupt the flavor
of any meat, fish, or cheese dish. Think
about it, if a glass of cola spilled onto
you fish would you still eat it? Probably
not, because they don’t go well together.
Conversely, many recipes call for cook-
ing food with wine - wine and food are
meant for each other. When you select a
pairing for the food you should choose a
wine that won’t overpower the flavor of
the food. Instead, choose one that will
complement the food. As a rule of thumb;
Mordy
with
Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 33
Herzog
Executive
VP of Royal
Wine Corp.
big wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon
will go better with big foods like red meat.
If you’re having veal, which is gentler, you
may want a rich white wine or a Pinot
Noir which is a gentle red. Another more
minor factor is the style of the wine, like
a spicy wine for a spicy food or a wine
with smoky flavors (from the oak) with a
blackened meat, etc. But that is not is as
important and selecting the right “size”
wine to fit the right “size” food.
What are some of the differences
in wines and what does it mean
when wine is described as cherry,
marshmallow, vanilla or oaky?
Regarding wine description, I’d like to
clarify something: wines are made out
of grapes, nothing more, and nothing
less. So when you read about a fruity
or earthy wine it is not something
that was added to the wine, it’s merely
nuances that you can pick up as you
become more experienced. There are
three elements that impart flavor to
finished wines. The grapes, the barrels
and the soil.
The Grapes Let’s remember that
wine is fermented fruit juice. So it’s
no surprise for wine to have fruity
flavors, like cherries and black currant.
These flavors aren’t added to the wine,
they’re nuances, like hints of cher-
ries but not actual cherries. Darker,
rich wines are usually described as
dark fruits, like blackberries or black
currant. Softer wines might be milder
or have fruit characteristics such as
strawberries for red wines or melon
and citrus fruit for whites.
The Barrels When a wine is aged in
wood it will pick up certain elements from
the wood. Aromas such as vanilla, smoke,
marshmallow and chocolate are all woody
flavors derived from the oak barrel.
The Soil Some wines have a more
earthy nose. The type of soil that grapes
are grown in can give the wine specific
characteristics. Mushrooms, leather or wet
leaves are common characteristics that soil
can impart on a wine.
Each wine will have different nuances.
A well-made wine is one where all these
flavors are harmonious and work togeth-
er to create a well-balanced, structured
wine. The differences aren’t just the
different grapes, but also come about as a
result of the region the wine came from.
An example of different regions can be
found in Israel; despite the fact that it is
such a small country, it has many differ-
ent microclimates. The Golan Heights
used to be the primary wine region and
is still important, producing wines such
as the Gamla wines, which are of superb
value. However, the Judean Hills have
become very prominent with wines like
Castel, the highest rated Israeli Winery
for the past five years by world-famous
wine critic Robert Parker.
Though they don’t realize it, most
people smell wines (and food) the
same way an expert does. It’s just that
as you become more experienced and
attuned to the things you are smelling
you can better decipher what you’re
smelling and tasting.
How long does wine last
once opened?
Wine, left open and exposed to oxygen,
will spoil as early as within a day. Luck-
ily, the spoilage rate may be slowed by
the tannic makeup of the wine (reds
will last longer thanks to the preserva-
tive powers of tannins) and temperature
(wines kept at lower temperatures
will also last longer). Re-corking and
keeping a wine in the refrigerator will
extend its life for 3 days or longer. And
removing the oxygen from the bottle
with a device such as a pump can pre-
serve it for a week or longer.
Now that we are all experts,
we are ready to go to our fa-
vorite wine shop and pick up
some wine for Yom Tov. Any
final advice?
I believe it’s important to look for wine
that presents a good QPR (quality price
ratio). That is, if you’re spending money
on anything you want a good bang for
your buck. Baron Herzog is the number
one name in value and that is true about
any wine that carries its name. Theirs
are consistently great wines at afford-
able prices. Even their Reserves, which
are their higher priced expressions, are
superb and provide the consumer with
wines that can age for years and provide
great value for their cost.
34 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775
“It has always been with reluctance that they have taken us
in; they are very proud winemakers. However, and this has
been the secret of our success, Royal Wine has become known
throughout the world as a company with serious respect for
wine and winemaking tradition. Word has gotten around to
the winemakers that we are not just Rabbis who are here to
authorize; we do have a rigorous kashrus procedure, but we
also bring with us a serious winemaking tradition. Moreover,
rather than pop in at harvest time, I retain a personal friendship
with the winemakers throughout the year.”
Highlighting the success of this partnership, Menachem
notes that it has happened that some of our barrels have come
out better—and the winemakers asked to blend the kosher bar-
rel into the regular blend of the château.
Looking Ahead
Menachem addresses the burning question; how did the raging
anti-Semitism in France affect the French wine market, and
the ability to produce kosher wines in France. “While sales of
kosher wine within France may have come down a bit because
some in France have emigrated, the overall relationship with
the winemakers could not be stronger. The winemakers have
supported us throughout these times, and reached out to us in
the wake of the Hyper Cacher tragedy. They have known us
for decades and have worked with us very closely, and we will
be’ezras Hashem keep working together for many years.”
Menachem speaks of his friend and mentor, Pierre Miodow-
nick. Pierre had established the partnership with Royal Wine
over three decades ago with the many châteaux in Bordeaux
and the winemaking regions, and is known throughout the
world as a master winemaker. Seven years ago, Pierre made
Aliyah and has since launched Netofa Winery, a French style
winery nestled in the mountains of the Galilee. Since that time
Menachem has become the chief winemaker.
His voice takes on a tone of reverence, as he says, “Pierre
is my mentor, and I have learned much from him—much of
what I have is through his gracious mentorship. Everything
I do here in winemaking is a continuation of his work. We
meet frequently at conferences and wine festivals through-
out the world, and I hope to continue his work, walking the
hills of the Bordeaux region, as well as the other areas of
French Wine Country and other European wine locales, to
bring the kosher consumer the best that the French wine
market has to offer.”
Vineyards of Bordeaux
continued from page 12
each château determines its own wine blends each vintage, based
on the quality of their grapes and the traditional “house” style that
their faithful consumers will be looking for.
A château, by the way, is the French word for “manor
house”, but in the region it is customary for every wine
growing estate, no matter how humble the house, to add
“château” to their name. The plural is “châteaux” and is pro-
nounced the same.
Now on top of all of this are the various “classification”
systems that purport to distinguish and mark hierarchies
amongst many of the châteaux—hence talk of First Growths,
French Kosher Wines
continued from page 7
Second Growths, and the like. While this is all designed to
make consumer choice easier and bring a measure of clarity
to the picture, it has actually tended to make everything a
bit more complicated than necessary for most consumers.
Certainly for those at the start of their French wine explora-
tion, none of that is strictly necessary.
Thankfully, there are châteaux from both the left and right
bank, classed and unclassed, that are producing some fabulous
kosher wines, some of the very best of which are available here
in the United States. With Passover on the horizon, now is the
time to start this wonderful journey of discovery.
Château des Laurets
A Baron Edmond
de Rothschild Winery
BEST
AWARDED BY THE
BUYS!
Carmel Selected Wines have been
chosen as “Best Buys” by the
prestigious Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
Carmel Selected
Israel’s Best Selling Wine
BEST
AWARDED BY THE
BUYS!
Carmel Selected Wines have been
chosen as “Best Buys” by the
prestigious Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
Carmel Selected
Israel’s Best Selling Wine
O N O R

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Passover Magazine 8i_sm

  • 1. The Story of a Religious Female Enologist P a s s o v e r 2 0 1 5 | 5 7 7 5 Top Kosher Chefs Talk Food & Wine Israeli Wines Score Big! Say Bonjour to French Wines
  • 2. P r o d u c t of I s r a e l
  • 3. 9 The Man Who Strolls the Vineyards of Bordeaux We sat down with Menachem Israelivitch, Royal Wine Corp.’s Head Kosher Winemaker in Europe to find out what goes into making some of France’s most sought after chateaux kosher and how the industry has changed over the years. 14 Wine Pairing with Jay Buchsbaum The Director of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp. shares his suggestions for pairing wine with traditional dishes. 17 Wine Buying guide Israeli wines are hot and it’s not going unnoticed, leading wine magazine Wine Enthusiast just released some of the highest scores Israeli wines have ever seen and threw in a couple of best buys for good measure. 22 From the kitchen We asked four chefs who are redefining kosher cuisine four questions about food and wine 29 Fine Wine Herzog Wine Cellar’s Alicia Wilbur, the story of a frum female enologist. 12 Demystifying French Wine Labels 16 Wine Myths 28 Did You Know? All about Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard, CA 32 Q&A with Mordy Herzog 13 Put a Cork In It A unique view on selecting wines for your seder 8 French 101 Sound like a seasoned wine veteran with these French wine terms Presented by Royal Wine Corp. For more information on any of the wines in this magazine or our complete portfolio visit www.royalwine.com. Connect with us! facebook.com/royalwinecorporation or @royalwinecorp 5 French Wines You may have heard that French wines are making a comeback, but what makes them so sought after and what’s with all the rules and regulations?
  • 4. I give my wine everything I have, including my name. Gilad Flam Winemaker P r o d u c t o f I s r a e l MEMBER 90 s c o r e FLAM RESERVE MERLOT 2010
  • 5. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 5 French Wines ©TzviS.Cohen|RoyalWineCorp. By Joshua E. London In the minds of many wine lovers, France is the very heart and soul of wine. The world over, wine producers, con- sumers and even critics, judge wines against the ideals and benchmarks set by the very best wines of France. For various reasons, however, France’s star experienced a lull in consumer interest and sales—but no longer. French wine is once again on the rise, gaining the attention of American consumers, includ- ing those in the niche world of kosher wine. Whether red, white, pink, or sparkling, France offers storied perfection for so many. Yet despite its legendary reputation for wine quality, France nonetheless saw its star fall considerably in the US over the last decade or so. There are various likely reasons for this, many of which can be plucked from the newspaper head- lines in this post-9/11 world. Just as many Americans preferred “freedom fries” to “French fries”, and cracked jokes about French national identity as “Cheese eating surrender monkeys”, many wine consum- ers turned away from French wines. This was less about wine quality and enjoyment then it was about politics. “After all,” went one line of thought, “there is no shortage of great wines being produced around the globe today, so why support coun- tries that annoy us?” This sort of thinking may or may not be fair, but it has an earnest logic to it. But now this is apparently changing, and France is once again coming back into favor amongst US wine drinkers, even in the kosher market. Many kosher consumers are expanding their horizons and the allures of France are being rediscovered. »» continued on page 6 French Kosher Wines
  • 6. 6 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 French Wines “Consumer interest in kosher French wine is steadily growing again,” notes Nathan Herzog, Executive VP of Royal Wine Corp., the largest producer, im- porter and distributor of kosher wines and spirits. “So for this Pesach,” he added, “we’ve brought over some of the most exciting French wines to date.” For those new to it all, French wines can seem complicated. This is partly because of their stunning variety, and partly because of their all important re- gional identity. This isn’t as complicated as it seems. One of the central concepts here is the French term “terroir,” which very loose- ly translates as “a sense of place,” and refers to the sum of the interactive ef- fects on the final wine of its unique local growing conditions—everything from the soil, microclimate, and weather, to the vineyard management and methods of production. Thus, the “appellation” or location where the wine comes from is all important to the French, and so is greatly emphasized on the label. As a general rule, in fact, French wines will bear the name of the region or vil- lage in which their grapes were grown, rather than the actual variety of grape from which they were produced. For example, almost all red wines from Bur- gundy are made using the Pinot Noir va- riety of grape, yet only very rarely will this name appear on the bottle’s label. Likewise, nearly all Bordeaux red wines are made from a blend of grapes rather than a single grape varietal; typically they are made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, though other varieties are used as well. So very seriously do the French take this heritage, that France was in fact the first nation to legislate a system to protect geographical names of origin and also codify local grape growing practices—known as the “appellation d’origine controlee” or “AOC” (“con- trolled designation of origin”). The most famous wine growing regions of France are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire Valley, Alsace, and the Rhône Valley. Each calls to mind specific gen- eral styles, even though any particular producer or wine may vary greatly from another within the same region. Is this so terribly confusing? At first blush, perhaps so…But really this is also a terrific strength, for wine lovers will seemingly never run out of great French wines to try. Likewise, learning about and exploring French wine can easily become one of life’s great gustatory pleasures. With Passover just around the corner, new French kosher wines and vintages are beginning to arrive in stores. As French kosher wines have started to re- gain shelf-space, now is the time to start this wonderful journey of discovery. There are some fabulous kosher wines being produced in France, one of the world’s oldest and greatest wine regions. In order to proper- ly explore French wine, all that one really needs is a thirst for both a little knowl- edge and for seriously good kosher wine. The French believe that foods and beverages taste the way they do part- ly because of the place where they are made. One consequence is that the French attribute special properties or characteristics to their land, and have sought to protect these qualities through government regulation and laws to designate each particular ag- As a general rule, French wines will bear the name of the region or village in which their grapes were grown. Château Giscours
  • 7. French Wines ricultural area or zone of production within each geographical region. This is why there always seems to be so much importance attached to French wine regions, and so many seeming- ly extra words on each wine label to identify it all. Consider Bordeaux. It is one of France’s most prominent wine regions and is often considered the benchmark in fine, long-aged wines. Also, it is the source of so many of the French kosher wines found here in the US. Bordeaux, which means “waterside” or “seaside”, is the name of a port city in the southwest corner of France from which much of the country’s wine commerce was historically conducted. Bordeaux is likewise the regional name for the sur- rounding wine producing area, and so also the name for the wines produced there. The red wines of Bordeaux are typically made from a cuvee, or blend, of more than one grape variety, mostly based around Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. While the wines of Bordeaux are most famously dry red wines, there are some great white wines too, both dry and sweet, made primarily from the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes. Like all French wine regions, Bordeaux has many regulated sub-regions, in recognition of the vary- ing soils, microclimates and traditions associated with their sense of place of each part. Bordeaux is bisected by the Gironde Estuary, formed from the meet- ing of the rivers Dordogne and Garonne. The formation looks almost like an upside down letter “Y” of running wa- ter. The areas along the “left bank”, or western side, of the Gironde, running south of the Garonne river part of the inverted “Y”, include the Médoc, Haut- Médoc, St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, Margaux, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, and further south the sweet white wine re- gion of Sauternes. Some of the world’s most famous wines are produced along this “left bank.” While the “right bank”, or eastern side of the Gironde, running south of the Dordogne river part of the inverted “Y”, includes such famous wine regions as Pomerol and St. Émilion. Since these “right bank” wine growing areas are north of the water supply, they tend to experience a slightly shorter growing season and can encounter an earlier dan- ger of frost. In order to compensate for this, it is commonly thought, most of the “right bank” vintners have traditionally planted more Merlot rather than Cab- ernet Sauvignon, which matures more slowly on the vine. Hence the common rule of thumb that the “left bank” châteaux produce wines that are typically more Cabernet Sauvi- gnon driven, and so tend to be rich, pow- erful and higher in tannins, alcohol and acidity. While those on the “right bank” tend to favor Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and so tend to be softer, juicier, less tannic, and lower in alcohol and acidity. Of course, Learning about and exploring French wine can easily become one of life’s gustatory pleasures. Josh’s Favorites We asked Josh to pick 4 French wines to fill his Four Cups. Here’s what he would serve... Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé Brut Champagne Pascal Bouchard Chablis Le Classique Burgundy Château Rollan de By Bordeaux, Médoc Barons Edmond & Benjamin de Rothschild Bordeaux, Haut-Médoc »» continued on page 34 Château Pontet-Canet
  • 8. Appellation Contrôlée (AC or AOC) Part of French law that guarantees that a wine comes from where the label says it does, that it is made from specific grapes and that it is produced in a certain way. French Wine Terms A term which translates into English as “Classed Growth”. In 1855, 61 red wines of the Médoc (including one from Graves: Château Haut-Brion) were classified as Cru Classé, which were divided into five ranks determined by price (and therefore, in theory, quality), ranging from Premier Cru (First Growth) down to Cinquième Cru (Fifth Growth). At the same time, the sweet white wines of Sauternes were divided into three categories: Premier Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Deuxième Cru, or First Great Growth, First Growth and Second Growth. Although now hopelessly outdated, these classifications do still denote a lot of prestige to a property and its wines. In 1955, also in Bordeaux, the wines of St. Émilion were similarly classified into three ranks: Premier Grand Cru Classé, Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru, while Grand Cru Classé (without subdivisions) has also been used since 1953 for red wines of Graves and, since 1959, for white wines of that area. Cru Classé The regular Bordeaux oak barrel of 225 liters Barrique At its simplest, the word means “soils”, but winemakers use it to refer to the differing types of soil, climate, drainage and position of a vineyard. “Taste of the Place” Terrior The satisfying froth that fizzes in a glass of champagne or sparkling wine as it is poured, savored and drunk. Mousse Château Term given to a specific wine-growing property. Vin de Pays Country wine of a level higher than table wine. Mis en Bouteille au Château Bottled at the château Rouge Red Blanc White Moelleux Sweet Doux Sweet 8 DiVine Passover 2015 | 5775.
  • 9. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 9 The Man Who Strolls the Vineyards of Bordeaux BY YITZCHOK SHTEIERMAN With the explosion of the French kosher wine market, we set about taking a look behind the scenes at the winemakers, importers, and those who scour the French countryside—and the various regions within regions—to provide the burgeoning worldwide kosher wine market with a wide range of quality French wines. Mr. Menachem Israelievitch is the chief kosher winemaker for Royal Wine in France, and along with Mr. Shia Herzog from London, heads import and export for Royal Wine throughout Europe. A third generation Jewish Frenchman, he has been involved in the wine industry for close to two decades. He recalls his Parisian upbringing and strong connections to wine, and expresses his passion for bringing an increasing variety of French wines to ever more discerning kosher consumers throughout the world. Bordeaux
  • 10. 10 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 A Passion for Wine “My family, which originates in Poland and Rumania, are part of the Chabad kehillah in Paris, and my father was drawn back to his heritage through the great late Reb Muleh Azimov, zt”l, the head Lubavitch shliach to France. When I was 16 years of age, still in yeshivah, a friend asked me whether I wanted to join him to work as a Mashgiach for winemaking in the Langued- oc region in the south of France under the supervision of Harav Mordechai Seckbach, the chief Rabbi of Strasbourg, who provides a hechsher for many French wines. I went… and the rest is history,” smiles Menachem. “I kept going back each year for the harvest time which coincides with bein hazmanim, and when I completed yeshivah, I took a full time job as a mash- giach in Burgundy and the Loire Valley, and soon became highly involved in the winemaking process for all the wineries of the area who wished to produce kosher barrels. And for the last eighteen years, I have been involved in all aspects of bringing kosher wine in and out of Europe—including being single-hand- edly responsible for twenty wineries in Bordeaux.” Asked whether wine has a connection to his fami- ly, Menachem replies, “I will tell you that my family is a highly musical one. My father was a great concert pianist, and my uncles are concert violinists in orchestras all over the world. Wine, like music, is made with the heart and soul. One must be intu- itive, attentive, and passionate about winemaking just like with music. In addition to this, in Jewish tradition we know, yayin yesamach levav enosh, wine brings true happiness, similar to music.” By all accounts, Menachem Israelievitch does indeed live and breathe wine. The Storied Châteaux of Bordeaux Among the wineries, or châteaux, in which Royal Wine produces high caliber kosher wine are some of the most prestigious wineries of Bor- deaux—with some of the highest rankings and storied traditions dat- ing back hundreds of years. In the year 1855, in the time of Napoleon, a classification for wine ped- igree was created: Grands Cru classes. The French wines imported by Royal Wine feature many châteaux with this prestigious classification; Château Leo- ville Poyferré, Château Giscours, and Château Pontet Canet to name a few. Château Rothschild, which is in the Medoc appellation within Bordeaux, was the first high quality French wine that Royal Wine began producing ko- sher through their winemaker Pierre Miodownick. Menachem supposes that it may have been their strong ties to the Jewish community that motivated them to take this unheard of step at the time. In the 1970’s, Baron Edmond de Rothschild, of the famed Rothschild family of bankers who were tzaddikim and great philanthropists, purchased various parcels around Bordeaux. His purchases included Château Clarke, Château Malmaison and Château Peyre-Lebade, which all had to be restored from scratch, indicating the family’s strong commitment to winemaking. Perhaps the most prestigious of the Bordeaux labels of which Royal Wine produces kosher bottles is Château Leoville Poyferré. Situated in the Saint-Julien area, which is one of most prestigious appellations in Bor- deaux, the château has been in the Cuvelier family, which began wine- making in the north of France generations ago, since 1804—more than 210 years! In 1903, the Cuvelier family purchased Château Le Crock, another of their wineries that has been producing stellar kosher Bordeaux. Wine Regions of France Bordeaux Alsace most famous for RIESLING PINOT GRIS GEWÜRZTRAMINER Bordeaux most famous for CABERNET SAUVIGNON & MERLOT BLENDS Bourgogne most famous for PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY Champagne most famous for SPARKLING WINE Languedoc Roussillon most famous for GRENACHE & CARIGNAN BLENDS Provence most famous for ROSE BLENDS Alsace most famous for RIESLING PINOT GRIS GEWÜRZTRAMINER Bordeaux most famous for CABERNET SAUVIGNON & MERLOT BLENDS Bourgogne most famous for PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY Champagne most famous for SPARKLING WINE Languedoc Roussillon most famous for GRENACHE & CARIGNAN BLENDS Provence most famous for ROSE BLENDS Sud Ouest most famous for MALBEC Loire most famous for SAUVIGNON BLANC MUSCADET CHENIN BLANC Rhone most famous for SYRAH & GRENACHE BLENDS
  • 11. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 11 Alsace most famous for RIESLING PINOT GRIS GEWÜRZTRAMINER Bordeaux most famous for CABERNET SAUVIGNON & MERLOT BLENDS Bourgogne most famous for PINOT NOIR CHARDONNAY Champagne most famous for SPARKLING WINE Languedoc Roussillon most famous for GRENACHE & CARIGNAN BLENDS Provence most famous for ROSE BLENDS Sud Ouest most famous for MALBEC Loire most famous for SAUVIGNON BLANC MUSCADET CHENIN BLANC Rhone most famous for SYRAH & GRENACHE BLENDS In 1993, Château Giscours, in the Margaux appellation, which is near the French town of Labarde, in Bordeaux, was the fourth winery with the coveted Gran Cru Classe that Royal Wine began producing as kosher. Château Giscours carries with it 600 years of winemaking tradition—when Pierre de l’Horme pur- chased the estate in 1552, and like every good Frenchman who was privileged to buy into Bordeaux, planted the first vines. From their 400 hectares which produce Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Verdot vari- etals, Château Giscours produces 25,000 cases of their Grand Vin line. Today Royal Wine makes kosher wine in 15 châteaux with the Grand Cru Classe distinction. Menachem becomes audibly excited as he describes the end of summer and beginning of autumn, when he spends his days in the Bordeaux region over- seeing the wine production at the var- ious châteaux. “There is an atmosphere of excitement in the châteaux among the winemakers and the staff, a strong sense of anticipation for how the boun- ty will turn out. The scenery and the climate is magical, and along the buzz of activity, it is a wonderful experience for all those involved.” Bordeaux: The Source This region is one that is heavy with winemaking tradition—going back hundreds of years—and each area within the Bordeaux region has its own methods and approach to the varietals they use in their blend. “In France, the appellation is the most important as- pect of the pedigree of the wine. My favorite is the Saint-Julien appellation where the tradition is 80% Cabernet, 15% Merlot, and 5% Petite Verdot, as I feel this provides a balanced feel on the palate. And it has a velvety smoothness, such that when you’re midway through your meal the bottle is finished…” ex- plains Menachem. Mr. Israelievitch says that it is not just the kosher consumer that has increased demand for French wine in such a big way; the world has moved to French wines. “The reason for this is that as the interest for wine in general has become The barrels and the grapes are like children which need constant attention and warmth. Menachem’s Favorites We asked Menachem to pick 4 wines to fill his Four Cups. Here’s what he would serve... Château Leoville Poyferré Saint Julien Château Giscours Margaux Les Roches de Yon Figeac Saint Émilion Château Pontet Canet Pauillac Bordeaux Château Yon Figeac
  • 12. more intense, people have turned to the source of winemaking. And right here in French wine country—this is the source of winemaking, where all the tradition and technique is handed down from gen- eration to generation.” The Gironde River, which flows from the enormous Atlantic right through the heart of Bordeaux, has provided satu- ration to the ground that has sprouted this blessed fruit for hundreds of years, and this has set the region apart. In ad- dition, the climate, exposure to the sun, the quality of the soil, along with the elevation—each appellation respective- ly—have made Bordeux wines the most desirable in the world. But then there is another, just as im- portant, aspect of winemaking in Bor- deaux; a culture of winemaking that permeates the entire region—directly translating to superior wines. “There are laws that govern winemaking in Bor- deaux. These passionate winemakers are vigilant about upholding what they have, and ensuring that Bordeaux wines will remain the most superior in the world,” Menachem explains. The maximum amount of wine that may be produced is between 4,500 and 6,000 liters of wine per hectare— depending on the appellation (with most châteaux producing under 4,000). This means that the farmers have no motivation to increase the amount of grapes that grow on each vine—which in turn means that each grape will hold much more quality, something that im- pacts the caliber of the wine. The governing committee of Bor- deaux judges each vintage as to wheth- er it is worthy of the classification. A farmer’s worst nightmare is to lose that label, and he does everything to retain it. Thus, every grape is sorted; for size, proper exposure to sun, and many oth- er factors, to make sure it is worthy to make it into the blend. The winemakers themselves are most often the growers of the grapes, because when it comes to wine, the caliber of the fruit and the way it is grown is every bit as important as the winemaking process itself. “So in essence, the desirability of Bor- deaux wines is the result of both the uniqueness of the region, but it is also much about a people that regards wine- making as their sacred duty, and some- thing they want to pass down to their children just as they have received it from their great grandfathers.” Handing over the press to the Rabbis All of this begs the question; why would winemakerswhotreatthisartastheirsacred culture, hand over their work to Rabbis? Menachem, who has grown to know and respect these practitioners of the wine tradition of Bordeaux, explains that it is indeed a great challenge and a mon- umental undertaking to be taking the reins of winemaking in these venerated institutions. “These bottles come out under their label, which means it reflects on them, and their château is judged by the wine that we produce. The barrels and the grapes are for them like chil- dren which need constant attention and warmth. And then we come in and tell them that they cannot touch the barrel from the beginning until the end of the process; it’s a very difficult proposition. Bordeaux deciphering a wine label »» continued on page 34 1 Classification The classification of the wine or estate. Classified wines must display said classification on the label. 2 Image or Logo The logo or Image of the Château. If a building is displayed, it must reflect the actual château. 3 Estate The name of the château or estate whre the wine is from, i.e. the brand name. 4 Region The geographical region from which the wine originates. 5 Appellation or Sub-Region The wine’s administrative region or appellation of origin. The appellation laws regulate many aspects of wine production, ensuring certain benchmarks in quality have been met. 6 Vintage The year the grapes were harvested. 7 Producer The producer of the wine. 8 Alcoholic Content The alcohol content of the wine. 9 Bottling Location Location where the wine is bottled. 10 Volume or Bottle Size The volume of the bottle. The standard size is 750ml 11 Type of Wine The type of wine. For example: Table Wine, Sparkling Wine, Sweet White Wine etc. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
  • 13. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 13 Humor Congratulations! You’re hosting a Seder! That means you’ve managed to convince several relatives to come to your house and sit there for hours listening to your kids repeat the same divrei Torah over and over immediately after their siblings do! So these relatives are going to need something to drink. Unfortunately, you don’t really under- stand wine, and you’re afraid to ask: Why are there so many varieties? There are a lot of varieties of salad dressing, for ex- ample, but what you usually do is buy one of each flavor. You can’t do that with wine. Some wines cost a lot of money. What are they making it from? Matzah? So normally you just buy something that you know you like because someone at a Shabbos table at some point said, “Try this one, you’ll like it.” On the other hand, that might not work, because you’ve been informed that you have no taste in wine, just because most of the wines that you like come in bottles with screw tops. You can’t even uncork a bottle of wine without breaking either the corkscrew or the cork. Also, you’re wondering: If red wine is made from red grapes, and white wine is made from white grapes, then what happens to green grapes? Also, what’s mevushal? Is someone boiling the wine? What does the garbage man think of us after Pesach, with all these bottles of wine in the recycling bin? Bear in mind that this is after several weeks of basically filling up his entire truck on our block alone. So how do you pick a wine? There are several methods: METHOD ONE What does it pair with? One thing you’ve heard is that certain wines are best paired with certain foods – like some wines go with meat, and some go with fish. Pairing a food and a beverage might sound crazy, but how good is coffee with donuts? Right? So you pretty much assume that fancy wine people are actual- ly dunking their fish into white wine at the table. But that is none of your business. So the key here is to figure out what wine pairs well with marror, for example. You could also do this by the cup: METHOD Two Stare at the bottles. Go to your local wine store and ask where they keep the kosher wines. This is an especially dumb question in a kosher wine store, but if you live somewhere that doesn’t specifically have a kosher wine store and your selection is limited, you can use that to your advantage. “This is all they had,” you can tell your guests. Of course, one confusing thing about wine is how come they all have different names? Some of them are named after cities, some are named after last names, and some are named after meforshim. When did all these meforshim have time to make wine? Isn’t Shiloh where they make the siddurim that count the lines of davening for you? If you buy a bottle of Or Haganuz Amuka series, is that a segulah for a shidduch? What does it take to be a Baron? Are you allowed to have kids? Personally, I like to choose a wine with a name I can make fun of, as that’s a good conversation topic, in case we run out of things to talk about at the Seder. Or to talk about when we’re face down on the street with heartburn. METHOD Three Go by the picture. Ideally get one that has a picture of grapes, so you know what’s in it. Anything with a lion is going to be good too. Or a picture that looks like it was taken from Google maps. Like you’re going to find the vineyard yourself by driving around Italy and staring at the bottle until you get pulled over. “Are you driving with a bottle of wine?” “No, I’m using the map. I don’t even know how to open this.” METHOD Four Just pick something already! At the end of the day, you should proba- bly just be honest with yourself and pick the second cheapest wine you can find. You also want to look for a year that’s not the current year. PRESENTING YOUR WINE Before you drink your wine, open the bot- tle and allow it to breathe. If it doesn’t look like it’s breathing, give it mouth-to-mouth. If you’re not sure how to pronounce your wine, just leave it on the table when your guests show up and don’t say any- thing. The guests will say the name, and you can pronounce it however they do. They’ll say, “Oh, Sweet!” (Or, “Oh, dry!”) “You bought blahblah!” And then you’ll try to pronounce it like that for the rest of the meal. Even if it’s wrong. You’re buying them wine, the least they can do is tell you how to pronounce it. We hope this guide was helpful in helping you pick out some acceptable wines. Your garbage man will be impressed. PutaC rkinItby Mordechai Schmutter
  • 14. Wine Pair Chicken Soup Jay’s Pairing Suggestions: Almost as divisive as gefilte fish, but for other reasons, everyone claims their mother makes the best chicken soup! Rich and flavorful with tender carrots and celery punctuated by herbaceous dill and parsley, these medium bodied whites are a great pair for this wonderful bowl of tradition. Carmel Selected Sauvignon Blanc Israel • $9-$11 Delightfully aromatic with floral notes and a backdrop of fresh cut grass. Flavors of tropical fruit are balanced with a clean citrusy finish. Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand • $20-$22 A vibrant, crisp Sauvignon Blanc with a bouquet that includes Gooseberries, lush tropical fruit with a slight hint of oak. Herzog Reserve Russian River Chardonnay California • $28-$30 Rich and complex, drawing on pear, citrus, hazelnut, and mineral flavors, all framed in a creamy-smooth texture with plenty of toasty oak. Everyone has their favorite traditional Passover dishes, but what to drink with them? We sat down with Jay Buchsbaum, Director of Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp., for some insight on pairing wines this Passover. For each dish Jay notes three suggestions from various locations and at different price points. Now onto the food & wine! Gefilte Fish with Horseradish Jay’s Pairing Suggestions: Gefilte fish is one of those love it or hate it dishes and I love it! The rich fish flavor with a touch of sweetness from the carrots cut by the piquant horseradish (the hotter the better in my opinion) goes great with a fresh and fruity white. The theme of the three picks below are ripe fruit flavors that evoke a sense of sweetness and stand up to the “fishiness” of the gefilte fish and boldness of the horseradish. Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc California • $8-$10 A fresh and round mouth feel with intense fruity notes of nectarine, gooseberry and pine with a bright, clean finish. Elvi Cava Brut Spain • $18-$20 Bubbly and dry, with interesting floral, mild citrus, and strawber- ry notes. Crisp and clean with a lingering finish. Be sure to serve well chilled. Carmel Single Vineyard Kayoumi White Riesling Israel • $25-$27 Fragrant, delicate nose of citrus blossom, green apple and lime.
  • 15. ingsWith Jay Buchsbaum Brisket Jay’s Pairing Suggestions:Whatis Passoverwithoutbrisket?I’mabigfanof brisket,itsrichandbeefyflavorwithan equallyrichsauce.(Ibraiseminewitha fullbottleofwine,andremember,ifyou wouldn’tdrinkitonitsown,whywould youcookwithit?)OneofthethingsI findamazingaboutbrisketishowall theflavorsandaromascometogether andsimultaneouslycanbeindividually pickedout.Ichosesomebigredstopair thatarebig,boldandwillstanduptothe richnessofthedish. Baron Herzog Old Vine Zinfandel California • $13-$15 Full bodied wine with rich concentrated flavors and lush mouth feel. Big effusive aromas of ripe blackberry and raspber- ries balanced with vanilla and spice from the French oak aging. Terra di Setta Chianti Classico Italy • $20-$25 Full bodied, velvety and elegant. Slightly balsamic, it offers a grand structure with a rich and fruity bouquet of cherries and wild berries, aromas of spice and violet. Domaine du Castel Grand Vin Israel • $70-$75 Full-bodied, bold, concentrated, and with layer after layer of aromas and flavors that linger on. Look for currants, cherries, plums, and spices on the palate, with hints of cedar. Lemon Almond Cake Jay’s Pairing Suggestions:Whata pleasantwaytoendameal.Whenpairing wineswithdesserts,youwanttomatch thesweetness,butnotoverwhelmthe dessertwithsomethingthatoverpowers theflavors.Thebrightnessofthelemon shinesandthealmondsgiveitarichlayer ofcomplexity.Thewineschosenarede- lightfulwiththeperfectlevelofsweetness andaciditytokeepalltheflavorsand aromasinharmony. Muscat de Baumes de Venise France • $18-$20 Very aromatic, with apricot, peach, lychee and some can- died orange peel notes. A touch of viscosity in the mouth and a well-balanced acidity. Herzog Late Harvest Chenin Blanc California • $20-$22 Very aromatic nose of honey and fresh apricot. Sweet but very well balanced with bright acidity and a lush and full mouth feel with lingering fresh fruit finish. Binyamina Reserve Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Israel • $26-28 Rich and complex aromas of tropical fruit, lychee, red grapefruit and rose water. Its sweetness is beautifully balanced by a natural crispness and fruity overtones. emember, whether pairing wines with the latest culinary trends or dishes passed down for generations, one thing remains the same, drink what you like! Wine is such an important part of the holiday and can elevate even the simplest dish, but the best thing to pair with wine is family and friends! L’chaim and have a Chag Kasher V’Sameach!
  • 16. 16 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 4Eat white wine with fish, red wine with meat. Certainly red wine goes with fish and white wine goes with meat. The art is to either match the inten- sity and body of the wine to the dish, or to contrast it. And clashes need to be avoided. However, this is an out of date guide. Today people match wine to mood, not to food. Drink what you like, and with whatever food. It is quite simple: good wine goes with good food and what you prefer is always the best choice. Wine Myths by Adam Montefiore Consumers are drinking more and more wine these days yet several misconceptions still exist. Adam Montefiore, Wine Development Director for Carmel Winery dispels several of these myths… 2Israeli wine is expensive. I disagree that Israeli wines are expensive. Yes, most of the trophy wines or the wines that win awards may be rela- tively expensive, but no more than similar wines in other countries. Furthermore, most wine journalists seem to write about the more expensive wines. However, over 95% of sales are for wines with a shelf price of less than $20, offering real value for money. 5Smell the cork to judge a wine’s quality. A waiter will often give you the cork to smell, or may even smell it himself. I have never known a cork to smell nice, so a bad smelling cork does not indicate a bad wine. 6Quality wines are stoppered only with natural cork. Aesthetically, cork is still the best closure for wine. However, do not be put off by the use of synthetic corks or even screw top clo- sures, which are becoming more and more popular. Both are fine, even for quality wines. 7Wine must be stored in a wine fridge Ideally wine should be stored at a perfect 55 to 56 degrees Fahrenheit, in a beautiful wine fridge. This will give respect to the wine you wish to store and give it the best chance to be at its peak when you decide to drink it. It is true that July and August are hot enough to ruin any wine, with no respect for its quality or price. However, wine is hardier than you think. If kept sensibly, it may last surprisingly well. Just try to follow a few basic rules. The wine should be kept horizontal, or upside-down in its origi- nal carton. It should be kept away from vibration, away from heat and direct sunlight. 8Serve white wine cold and red wine at room temperature. The biggest problem with wine service is that white wines are served too cold and red wines too warm. If it is too cold, a quality white wine will lose its delicate fruit aroma. Certainly an inexpensive white wine, sparkling wine or sweet dessert wine should be served very cold. However a Chardon- nay, Viognier, or Gewurztraminer would benefit by being cold, but not ice cold. As far as red wines are concerned, I believe even a quality red wine should be served after 20 minutes in a fridge. This will bring it to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit and it will warm up in the glass. In a hot climate, higher alcohol wines will soon lose shape if served at room temperature. Adam S. Montefiore is Wine Development Director for both Carmel and Yatir Wineries. He writes the weekly “Wine Talk” column for the Jerusalem Post. 1Taste a wine in a restaurant to see if you like it. When you order wine in a restaurant, the wine waiter will offer you the opportunity to taste before pouring it. This is only to check if it is the wine you ordered and that it is in good condition. It is not an op- portunity to send it back because you don’t like it! 3A corky wine has bits of cork in it. A corky wine has a musty smell that overwhelms any fruit. It is not a wine with bits of cork floating in it. The reason is the cork has been contaminated. A wine such as this may be referred to as being ‘corked.’ 9Once a bottle is open, the wine does not last. If you are having dinner at home and you just want a glass or two, don’t leave the bottle open at the table. After you pour what you want, immedi- ately put the cork back in. (If it does not go in easily, try it the other way round.) Then put it in the fridge. The wine will last for a few more days with no problem, even without use of a wine saving device.
  • 17. WINEMAG.COM | 1 2 ISRAEL 19 SICILY 31 SARDINIA 31 GERMANY 35 ALSACE 45 SPAIN 51 PORTUGAL 53 NEW ZEALAND 56 ARGENTINA 61 CALIFORNIA 78 OREGON 87 MICHIGAN 87 VIRGINIA 88 NORTH CAROLINA 89 NEW JERSEY 90 SPIRITS 92 BEERS ©68/DANPORGES/OCEAN/CORBIS 2015 APRIL Valley vineyards at the foot of Tel Tzova in the Judean Hills near Jerusalem. IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM BUYINGGUIDE As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
  • 18. CHARDONNAY 90 Barkan 2012 Special Reserve Winemakers’ Choice Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Medi- um-gold in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of clementine and brioche. It is clean and crisp in the mouth, with flavors of lime sorbet, vanilla and toasted bread. It offers a good balance of citrus fruit and toasty notes right into the bright, lasting finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 90 Tzuba 2012 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Deep straw to the eye, this wine offers a clean nose of ripe seckel pear. There is a nice interplay between fruit and floral notes, with fla- vors of pear, butterscotch and white flowers. The lengthy finish features a mix of smooth tannins and bright fruit and floral notes. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% 89 Shiloh Winery 2012 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). A bouquet of golden apple and honeydew melon sets the scene for flavors of melon, lilac, and barely ripe golden apple. It is smooth on the palate, with fruit and floral notes playing off each other. The lengthy, sophisticat- ed finish wraps up on a nice bright note. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.6% 85 Psagot 2012 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). A nose of lemon and petrol opens into flavors of lemon, pears, petrol and white flowers, with slightly overpowering toast notes. Tannins are a bit stiff for an otherwise bright white that has a slightly tart finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- poration. —M.D. abv: 13.5% OTHER WHITE WINES 89 Carmel 2013 Selected Sauvignon Blanc (Galilee). Aromas of peach and lemon peel prime the palate for flavors of peach, apricot, and lemon curd. It’s well balanced, with flavors of ripe stone fruit and citrus that wash across the palate and leave a creamy texture in their wake. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 12.5% 89 Domaine Netofa 2013 Estate Bottled Chenin Blanc (Galilee). Soft aromas of grapefruit, sage and lavender lead to flavors of green apple, eucalyptus, and aniseed. This wine has a pleasant balance of fresh fruit and cool herbal notes. It is smooth on the palate with a cooling lemon-rind finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 89 Tulip Winery 2013 White Franc (Judean Hills). This pale apricot-colored semidry wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of butterscotch and nectarine get the taste buds prepared for flavors of but- terscotch, peach, rose petal and nutmeg. It is a gently sweet wine that is not at all cloying, with nicely balanced acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- poration. —M.D. abv: 12.5% 88 Tulip Winery 2013 White Tulip (Galilee). A blend of Gewürztraminer and Sau- vignon Blanc, this presents a bouquet of melon and grapefruit. Bold spice flavors, in particular clove, anise and spearmint, are nicely contrast- ed against flavors of lemon and lime. It offers a harmonious balance of baking spices and citrus notes backed by a strong vein of acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 12.7% 86 Carmel 2012 Single Vineyard Kayoumi Vineyard White Riesling (Galilee). This mediumstraw colored wine has a nose of lemon and tomato leaf. Flavors of lemon, orange, bak- ing bread and a light cottony feel are ultimately brightened by a final wash of acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 12.5% ROSÉS 89 Domaine Netofa 2013 Estate Bottled Rosé (Galilee). Medium apricot to the eye, this rosé made from Syrah and Mourvèdre opens with a bouquet of strawberry and peach. Flavors of gua- va, anise and clove continue on to a spicy finish As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
  • 19. that may be too cool for some yet will be enjoyed by those who like rosé with a touch of sophistica- tion. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.9% 88 Flam 2013 Rosé (Judean Hills). Medium blush in color, this wine has aromas of guava, melon and strawberry. Cool herbal flavors meld with zesty fruit, notably anise, soft clove, guava and grapefruit with hints of butterscotch. The soft, lingering finish is equal parts smooth and bright. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% CABERNET SAUVIGNON 92 Madmon 2012 Soreka Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Shomron). An in- tense bouquet of blackberry, smoked meat, flint and violet paves the way for flavors of black currant, smoked meat, coffee bean and a hint of cranberry. Rich savory notes mingle with strong fruit flavors, all marked by a pleasingly persistent strain of tartness. Smooth, soft tannins prime the palate for the elegant finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 92 Tzuba 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Deep brick-red in color, this wine leads with aromas of stewed black fruits, petrol and green pepper. Flavors of cherry preserves, smoked meat, vanilla and a pop of tart cherry make their way across the palate, encased in silky tannins. The finish is simultaneously cool and bright. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 14% 91 Carmel 2011 Appellation Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Galilee). A deep black-cherry color, this wine has aromas of black currant and anise. Flavors of cherry, chocolate, coffee and orange peel are joined by a touch of mint. Smooth and bright, the wine’s velvety tannins coat the mouth right into the orange-peel finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 91 Psagot 2011 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Jerusalem Hills). Inky red-vi- olet in color, this offers a bouquet of black cherry, iodine and green pepper. It has flavors of cassis, blackberry, butterscotch, orange peel and mint, with nice notes of citrus and cranberry that con- tinue as the smooth tannins fade on the palate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.3% 90 Psagot 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Aromas of cassis, black cherry and summer farm stand are evident in this dark ruby- colored wine. It is well weighted, with good play between fruit and herbal flavors. The palate is filled with notes of black cherry preserves, choco- late, coffee, eucalyptus and a touch of bell pepper. Silky tannins and a cooling feeling persist into the finish, where they are joined by a momentary splash of brightness. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- ration. —M.D. abv: 14.4% 90 Segal’s 2009 Unfiltered Cabernet Sau- vignon (Galil). Inky ruby in color, this wine conveys flavors of tart cherry, cassis, cured meat and green pepper that are fresher than its notes of black currant and bell pepper would suggest. Slightly grippy tannins are pleasantly outweighed by a vein of cleansing tart cranberry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 winery winery 750ml|14.5%Alc.byVol. Product of Israel – contains sulfites Imported by: Royal Wine Corp. New York, NY Manufactured and bottled by: Tulip winery ltd – Kfar Tikva, Israel GOVERNMENT WARNING: (1) ACCORDING TO THE SURGEON GENERAL, WOMEN SHOULD NOT DRINK ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES DURING PREGNANCY BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF BIRTH DEFECTS. (2) CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES IMPAIRS YOUR ABILITY TO DRIVE A CAR OR OPERATE MACHINERY, AND MAY CAUSE HEALTH PROBLEMS. Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Galilee | 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Wine Made of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes harvested from a vineyard deep in the upper Galilee. The wine was aged for 6 months in French oak barrels and is elegant, medium bodied with a delightful fruity finish. UPC087752014905 Bottlingdate:May.2015 Winemaker 90 Tulip Winery 2012 Just Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Galilee). Aromas of black cherry, lavender and thyme provide a good introduction to flavors of cassis, lavender and thyme, with a hint of smoke and orange peel. Smooth tannins coat the mouth and are joined on the back palate by a pleasing jolt of orange zest and tart cranber- ry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 90 Tulip Winery 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sau- vignon (Galilee). Made with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine offers a bouquet of black cherry, green pepper and toast. There is a nice balance of fruit and cooling herb flavors, featuring black- berry, eucalyptus, anisette and espresso bean. Lingering, velvety tannins continue on the pal- ate until a final burst of cranberry on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tast- ers. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSim- one, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- tialsappearfollowingthenote.Whennoinitialsappearfollowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyondtherating,weencourageyoutoreadtheaccompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less critical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designa- tiondoesnotmeanthataproductmustbestoredtobeenjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be ac- companied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are giv- en the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
  • 20. 89 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’ Choice Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Gar- net in the glass, this wine has aromas of blackber- ry and green pepper. Flavors of cassis, black cher- ry, vanilla, coffee, butterscotch and green pepper remain bright in contrast to the wine’s savory notes. It is soft on the palate with a quick, bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 89 Carmel 2013 Selected Cabernet Sauvignon (Shomron). Deep red-violet in color, this of- fers aromas of black cherry, vanilla and soft baking spice. Flavors of cassis, licorice, black peppercorn and a touch of green pepper stay strong amid per- sistent yet soft tannins. The lasting finish is marked by notes of butterscotch and orange peel. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 86 Shiloh Winery 2011 Secret Reserve Cab- ernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Enticing aromas of black cherry conserves on toast lead to flavors of stewed cherries and raspberry, with lic- orice and clove notes. The deep fruit flavors are overly ripe and powerful. Although the flavors work well together, the wine lacks brightness. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 15.2% MERLOT 91 Flam 2011 Reserve Merlot (Galilee). A bou- quet of cranberry, tobacco and espresso bean paves the way for flavors of black cherry, euca- lyptus, tobacco and leather. There is a pleasing bal- ance of fruit and tobacco flavors amid mouth-coat- ing tannins, leading to a nice iodine note on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% .(‫וגרפיקה‬ ‫ברקוד‬ ,‫טקסט‬ ,‫)גודל‬ ‫המלאה‬ ‫רצונך‬ ‫לשביעות‬ ‫בוצעה‬ ‫הגרפיקה‬ ‫כי‬ ‫בזאת‬ ‫מאשר‬ ‫הנך‬ ‫זה‬ ‫מסמך‬ ‫על‬ ‫בחתימתך‬ !‫נכבד‬ ‫לקוח‬ ‫מחדש‬ ‫הגרפיקה‬ ‫כל‬ ‫את‬ ‫לבדוק‬ ‫יש‬ ‫התיקונים‬ ‫בקבלת‬ ,‫חוזר‬ ‫בפקס‬ ‫ולשלוח‬ ‫הטופס‬ ‫ע“ג‬ ‫ברורה‬ ‫בצורה‬ ‫לתקן‬ ‫נא‬ ‫תיקונים‬ ‫וישנם‬ ‫במידה‬ .‫בלבד‬ ‫אחריותך‬ ‫ועל‬ ‫שאושרו‬ ‫הפרמטרים‬ ‫ע“פ‬ ‫ההדפסה‬ ‫תבוצע‬ ‫חתימתך‬ ‫לאחר‬ .‫זה‬ ‫מסמך‬ ‫על‬ ‫לחתום‬ ‫יש‬ ‫תקינותם‬ ‫וידוא‬ ‫לאחר‬ ‫ורק‬ ‫שבוצעו‬ ‫התיקונים‬ ‫לרבות‬ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ‫פנימי‬ ‫חור‬ ‫קוטר‬‫חיצוני‬ ‫קוטר‬‘‫יח‬ ‫בגליל‬ ‫כמות‬ ‫גלילה‬ ‫כיוון‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫לציין‬ ‫נא‬ :‫המאשר‬ ‫שם‬:‫חתימה‬:‫תאריך‬ :‫מיוחדות‬ ‫בקשות‬ ‫נס-ציונה‬ ,4 ‫המסגר‬ ‘‫רח‬ 08-6226222 :‫טלפון‬ 08-6226200 :‫פקס‬ 28197 :‫פאר‬ ‫הזמנה‬ ‘‫מס‬ st9026f :‫מק“ט‬ ‫ברקן‬ :‫לקוח‬ ‫שם‬:‫אוטומטית‬ ‫הדבקה‬ 4 :‫גילגול‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫קרם‬ ‫רוסטיק‬ :‫גלם‬ ‫חומר‬ ‫מרטה‬ :‫לידי‬ ‘‫ק‬ ‫חו“ל‬ ‫מרלו‬ ‫רזרב‬ ‫ספיישל‬ :‫הקובץ‬ ‫שם‬ -‫גודל‬:‫קדמית‬116.3/119.3 :‫קדמית‬ :‫צווארון‬ :‫צווארון‬ :‫אחורית‬ :‫אחורית‬ 24.11.13 :‫תאריך‬ :‫חדשה‬ ‫עבודה‬ :‫חוזרת+שינוי‬‫עבודה‬ ‫אמנון‬ :‫גרפי‬ ‫תיקון‬ :‫פרוצס‬ :‫פנטונים‬ :‫פוייל‬:‫הבלטה‬ :‫אחר‬ : ‫שטנץ‬ :‫לוחות‬1 1 :‫פוייל‬ :‫הבלטה‬ Black 6 foil kruz Cut 4767501872200 ‫חדש‬‫קיים‬ ‫חדש‬‫קיים‬ ‫חדשה‬‫קיימת‬ :uv/‫משי‬ ‫חדשה‬‫קיימת‬‫סה“כ‬ ‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫לוחות‬ ‘‫מס‬ ‫סופיים‬ ‫קבצים‬ ‫בצרוף‬ ‫חוזר‬ ‫אימל‬ ‫או‬ 08-6226224/200 ‫בפקס‬ ‫לאשר‬ ‫נא‬ 76390 4 750ml 13% Alc./Vol. GALILEE - RED WINE 90 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’ Choice Merlot (Galilee). Aromas of cara- mel, black cherry and sea salt are evident in this deep garnet-colored wine. Flavors of black cher- ry, tobacco and caramel are marked by a hint of green pepper.Chewy tannins are nicely balanced by an herbaceous burst and a bright splash on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% 90 Psagot 2012 Merlot (Judean Hills). Dark black cherry to the eye, this has a tantaliz- ing bouquet of raspberry, black cherry and iodine with a touch of brambles. The palate offers a so- phisticated mélange of blackberry and black cher- ry with strong notes of leather and toffee. Taking the grippy tannins into account, the wine offers surprisingly good fruity brightness into the lasting finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% SHIRAZ/SYRAH 91 Flam 2011 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). En- ticing aromas of black cherry, sage and smoke lay the groundwork for flavors of black cherry, mint, smoked meat and vanilla bean. A pleasure to drink, this smooth wine ends on a nice bright note, with a lingering cooling sensa- tion. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% 90 Barkan 2011 Special Reserve Winemakers’ Choice Shiraz (Galilee). Deep garnet in the glass, this has a nose of blackberry and vanilla. Flavors of blackberry, eucalyptus, tart cherry and white chocolate are well balanced, with a mix of fruity and savory notes. Tannins are mostly smooth with a touch of grip. The finish combines a pleasing blend of eucalyptus and tart cherry flavors. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% winery Mostly Shiraz 2013 winery 750ml | 15.2% Alc. by Vol. Product of Israel – contains sulfites Imported by: Royal Wine Corp., New York, NY Manufactured and bottled by: Tulip Winery Ltd – Kfar Tikva, Israel GOVERNMENT WARNING: (1) ACCORDING TO THE SURGEON GENERAL, WOMEN SHOULD NOT DRINK ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES DURING PREGNANCY BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF BIRTH DEFECTS. (2) CONSUMPTION OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES IMPAIRS YOUR ABILITY TO DRIVE A CAR OR OPERATE MACHINERY, AND MAY CAUSE HEALTH PROBLEMS. Mostly Shiraz 2013 | Galilee 85% Shiraz, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Wine This wine is a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes harvested from Kfar Yuval vineyard, situated in the Upper Galilee. The wine was aged for 12 months in oak barrels and is full bodied and robust with an aroma of blackberries, mint, eucalyptus and toasted wood with a delightful fruity finish. UPC087752015810 Bottlingdate:Feb.2015 Winemaker 90 Tulip Winery 2011 Mostly Shiraz (Galilee). Made with 85% Shiraz and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this inky garnet-colored wine offers a bouquet of black currant and cherry-vanilla. Flavors of cassis, raspberry, mint tea and tan- gerine zest play across the tongue in a network of barely-there tannins. Brightness dominates a velvety finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% 85 Tzuba 2010 Metzuda Syrah (Judean Hills). This deep ruby-colored wine has a bou- quet of black cherry with hints of smoked meat and red bell pepper. Flavors of smoked meat and cherry pie with notes of orange peel never completely coalesce. There are some pleasant moments on the palate, but they don’t all come together at the same time. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% RED BLENDS 93 Shiloh Winery 2010 Legend (Judean Hills). Dark violet-red in color, this is a blend of 40% Petite Sirah, 35% Petit Verdot and 25% Shi- raz. A bouquet of cherry, violet and mesquite lay the groundwork for a wining mélange of savory fruit flavors–think cherry, strawberry, smoke flint, jasmine and orange peel. Smooth tannins lead the way to an orange-rind finish, with a hint of smoke and a slight umami feeling on the pal- ate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. –M.D. abv: 14.9% 92 Domaine du Castel 2011 Grand Vin (Haut-Judeé). Deep ruby to the eye, this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot has a bouquet of coffee and black currant preserves. It offers a frankly gor- geous interplay between fruit and cool herbal flavors, with black cherry joined on the palate by licorice, eucalyptus, butterscotch and flint. The drawn-out finish offers a surprisingly bright burst that inspires taking the next sip. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 91 Domaine Netofa 2011 Red Wine (Galilee). This blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre has a sophisticated nose of blackberry, bramble and a touch of smoked meat. Flavors of black cherry, cranberry and smoke come with a hint of leather. This is a soft, easy-drinking wine, with smooth tannins that gently fade to a splash of cranberry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13% As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
  • 21. 90 Domaine Netofa 2011 Latour Netofa Es- tate Bottled Syrah-Mourvèdre (Galilee). A blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this wine has a bouquet of cherry and smoke. Well-integrated tannins support flavors of cherry, vanilla and cranberry, with light smoky notes that endure into the zesty finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- ration. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 91 Psagot 2011 Edom (Judean Hills). Aromas suggest blueberry, coffee and orange rind. The nice marriage of cooked and fresh fruit flavors with cool herbal notes includes blueber- ry, black cherry, anise, eucalyptus, coffee, pencil lead and violet. Tannins come on strong but back off appropriately, and the pleasing finish includes lasting touches of leather and tart cherry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 91 Shiloh Winery 2010 Legend II (Judean Hills). This blend of 70% Cabernet Sau- vignon, 25% Carignan and 5% Sangiovese offers aromas of blackberry, plum and soy sauce. Tan- nins and bright acidity swirl around the palate in a pleasant cloud of smoke, featuring flavors of mint, anise, soy sauce and ripe red plum. The soft finish is smoky, with a tart flash. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 90 Alexander 2012 Sandro (Upper Galilee). This all-over-the-lot blend of 55% Caber- net Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Grenache and 3% Sauvignon Blanc makes more sense in the mouth than it does on paper. It offers aromas of tart cherry, but- terscotch and vanilla bean. A variety of textures and flavors plays across the palate, notably black cherry, smoked meat, iodine, toffee and a touch of green pepper. Smooth tannins are evident throughout, until notes of iodine and lemon zest take over at the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- poration. —M.D. abv: 13.5% 90 Alexander 2009 The Great Amarolo (Israel). A blend of 40% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 3% each Mourvèdre and Grenache, this wine is made from grapes that are dried for 50 days prior to fermentation. The finished wine is aged in barrel for 40 months prior to bottling, yet it is surprisingly soft in the mouth and equal parts smooth and bright. Aromas of raspberry, black plum and maple give way to flavors of strawber- ry, cranberry sauce, maple-cured meat and rose petal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 15.5% 90 Carmel 2010 Carmel Mediterranean (Gal- ilee). This red blend delivers aromas of raspberry, aniseed, sage and thyme. On the palate, lively flavors of black cherry, licorice, or- ange rind and violet are encased in silky tannins, offering a smooth interplay between rich mouth- feel and bright acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- poration. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 90 Flam 2012 Classico (Judean Hills). This blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot is dark garnet in the glass, offering a slightly wild nose of blackberry and green pepper. Flavors of cassis, blackberry, toffee and leather are joined by a potent burst of cranberry. Well-integrated fla- vors continue into the lasting finish, which offers comforting warmth before culminating in a jolt of acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Bottle of 6300 2012 90 Tulip Winery 2011 Black Tulip (Galilee). This Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is deep red-violet in color, with a nose of black cherry and Tuscan peppers. Cool notes trump fruit in a mélange of black cherry, vanilla, mint and aniseed flavors with a hint of brambles. Stiff but forgiving tannins linger on the palate with a flash of acidity at the back of the throat. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 15.5% 88 Montefiore 2011 Karem Moshe (Judean Hills). Dark red-violet in color, this of- fers aromas of cherry, seawater and molasses, while flavors suggest cherry, cranberry, smoked meat, mocha, mint and eucalyptus. Cool notes outweigh fruit flavors, leading to a sense that something is off balance. Strong tannins back off on a bright finish that fails to diminish the minty notes. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% OTHER RED WINES 92 Alexander 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Galilee). Dark ruby in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of black cherry, jalapeño and celery root that continually invites you back for another sniff. There is a terrific balance between fruit and savory flavors, which include black cur- rant, cherry, white chocolate, mint and jalapeño. Smooth tannins go on and on until they are final- ly punctuated by a bright cranberry note. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13.8% 91 Psagot 2011 Cabernet Franc (Judean Hills). A nose of black cherry, butterscotch and clove sets the stage for similar flavors that are elevated by cassis and a touch of bramble. It of- fers a good balance of mouth-pleasing fruit and seductive butterscotch and baking spice notes, all wrapped in a web of smooth tannins. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% 90 Shiloh Winery 2011 Shor Barbera (Judean Hills). A bouquet of plum, butterscotch and vanilla sets the stage for flavors of blackberry, strawberry, clove, violet and espresso bean. This is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins and a bright, lasting finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor- poration. —M.D. abv: 14.3% As seen in the Wine Enthusiast
  • 22. From the Kitchen4 Questions for 4 Chefs who are redefining kosher cuisine
  • 23. Has a wine ever inspired you to create a dish? What was the wine? Herzog Single Vineyard Syrah, 2012. Around winter I had so many ideas, spice profiles on my mind and I didn’t know quite how to create/ categorize them into any one dish. That is until I tried the Herzog Special Reserve Syrah. Sometimes it takes a wine to help guide you and once you taste that amazing first sip the dish starts plating itself in your head, and all those ideas come together. A lamb tagine cooked with cinnamon, clove, coriander, and cumin is what ended up coming from those thoughts, and was a big hit at one of our wine club dinners. How do you think food and wine pairing has changed in the last few years? With so many varietals available and flavor profiles in food there is no end to being creative. I have always considered wine somewhat like technology; with varietals always changing depending on the year; I believe pairing food and wine is only as hard as you make it. I am just excited that we have so many varietals that we can broaden the field and bring multiple wines into any one dish. What suggestions do you have for guests picking a wine at a restaurant? Rule #1 is not to be scared! Ask for suggestions from your server, keep tasting wine until you find something your palate just loves. Keep an open mind. Just because you have never had that certain varietal, does not mean your palate won’t enjoy it. Any traditional wine pairing rules you want to throw out the window? The concept of “white with fish and chicken” or red’s with meat. All of this is based on your ingredients in a dish not to mention your palate. It sounds like something from the 80’s. Wine has evolved tremendously and so should people’s palates and knowledge of wine and food. Always keep that door open and explore new things when it comes to food and wine. Gabe Garcia Executive Chef Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 23
  • 24. Has a wine ever inspired you to create a dish? What was the wine? Years ago, I had a robust Barolo with heavy tannins and a full mouth feel. All I wanted was a hearty and rich lamb shank stew. A wine that has so many intricate flavors and aromas demands an equally complex dish. The two paired perfectly, and the dish was the special the following day. How do you think food and wine pairing has changed in the last few years? I have found that people have begun to be more willing to rotate through various varietals throughout a single meal, or even getting adventurous and going against the “rules” of wine by drinking fuller bodied reds with fish, for example. What suggestions do you have for guests picking a wine at a restaurant? Don’t always go for the mainstream wines and familiar brands. Boutique wineries are often able to offer wines made from unique or lesser-known varietals. Take a chance. You never know what you might discover. What do you like to drink when you’re enjoying a meal? I enjoy spicy food, and a dry, crisp rosé, such as the Goose Bay Blanc de Pinot Noir, goes nicely with a spicy Asian dish. Hok Chin Executive Chef Reserve Cut NYC
  • 25. How do you think food and wine pairing has changed in the last few years? I feel it has become more to the point and on a more approachable front. These days not so many people can spend four solid hours on food and wine tastings. If you do it right, all the contrasts will come together in an approachable way. Most are a bit scared to go in for food and wine pairings. Keep it real and approachable and people open up. What suggestions do you have for guests picking a wine at a restaurant? Stay in your budget. Know the body of your favorite wine, the fruit and acidity. Are they bold and fruit driven? Tannic? Long lived? You can find affordable and amazing wines in your budget. You don’t have to go into your savings for a good bottle if you know your likes. And a true good sommelier will be able to help you to achieve this. What do you feel is the most underrated varietal? Zinfandel, a true full bodied red Zin. Most think it’s the sweet white or even rosé Zin. Some Zinfandels can even stand up to “the over-popular Cabernet”. Any traditional wine pairing rules you want to throw out the window? Like a movie critic telling you which flick is good and entertaining. One man’s interests or likes aren’t always the same as another’s. Wine pairing rules were made as guidelines. Why put rules to a person’s likes or tastes? Just because a knowledgeable person wrote it doesn’t mean it has to be followed. David Kolotkin Executive Chef The Prime Grill Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 25
  • 26. Has a wine ever inspired you to create a dish? What was the wine? A couple of years ago I had stopped by my local farmers market and picked up some just-picked fruit. My car smelled of the perfectly ripe cantaloupes and strawberries. On my way to work I passed a giant billboard advertising the Bartenura Moscato...you know the one, in the blue bottle. With the sight of the billboard and the scent of the fruit, I just knew that the first thing I’d cook that day would be a cold, refreshing soup. The wine was just the right amount of sweet-fruitiness and effervescence that I needed. Very rarely does a billboard really speak to me, but there it was, and I couldn’t wait to get to work! How do you think food and wine pairing has changed in the last few years? The kosher clientele has become more educated about wine, as well as food. No longer is wine just considered a celebratory beverage. Wines are more prevalent on a menu and are offered as a more integral part of the meal. Our guests are willing to add the flavors and nuances of wine to their ever evolving palate’s repertoire. I notice that a lot of our regular customers like to change it up. They don’t even look at the menu anymore, but only order from the specials list. This in turn holds true for their choice of wine. They are experimenting with new flavors from my kitchen, and new wines from the cellar. What do you like to drink when you’re enjoying a meal? This is a tough question! There’s just so much to choose from. With summer just around the corner, when I’m cooking more of the lighter fish and salads, a Sauvignon Blanc is my go-to wine. Any traditional wine pairing rules you want to throw out the window? Open that window wide, and throw out the red with meat and white with fish rule! There are so many wonderful flavors to wine—why lock into a narrow category? Many people start with light wines, and increase the depth as their meal moves along. This is not always so for me. I can appreciate a rib eye with a big Cabernet, followed by a salad with a crisp and lighter Chardonnay. Just as the rules of food have changed, so can the rules of wine. Jeff Nathan Executive Chef Abigael’s on Broadway
  • 27. give your glass a raise. kosher for passover and all year round. P
  • 28. 28 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 Did You Know?All about Herzog Wine Cellars Herzog Wine Cellars opened in 2005, but Baron Herzog wines have been made in California since 1985. Herzog Wine Cellars is the largest winery outside of Israel dedicated exclusively to Kosher wines. When opened, Herzog Wine Cellars was the most modern winery built in Ventura County. The winery continues to use the most innovative wine producing technology available while main- taining a connection to their wine producing roots dating back 9 generations. Herzog Wine Cellars is located in Oxnard, California, the southern gateway to the Central Coast wine region about an hour north of Los Angeles. At any given time, there are over 3,500 wine barrels aging at the winery. Herzog Wine Cellars uses the best fruit possible from the best vineyards in the regions of the state best suited to growing each grape variety. We work directly with winegrowers in all the major Californian appellations in- cluding Sonoma, Napa, Lodi, Santa Barbara County, Monterey County and Paso Robles. The dedication to using only the finest fruit throughout California was the inspiration behind this year’s newest Herzog Wine Cellars introduction, Variations, a series of wines made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from some of California’s most storied wine regions. The Tank Room at Herzog Wine Cellars has 70 different tanks which hold about 500,000 gallons of wine. Each tank is temperature controlled and individually monitored to produce ideal conditions for each varietal of wine. Head Winemaker Joe Hurliman has been with Herzog Wine Cellars for nearly 20 years and has played a central role in the design and construction of the winery. His wine- making philosophy produces balanced and elegant wines that celebrate the subtleties of both the grape varietals and the regions in which they are grown. Herzog Wine Cellars is home to Tierra Sur, a perennial award winner and the highest Zagat rated restaurant (kosher or otherwise) in Ventura County, California! Both the Herzog Wine Cellars and The Herzog Wine Club offer exclusive limited edition wines you won’t find in any stores. “The Herzog family heritage and passion for truly excellent wine making is inspiring to me. From the grapes that we use, to the dedication that our cellar crew pours in to each bottle, every aspect allows the wine to evolve freely – really letting the wine ‘speak’ and shape the process.” Joe Hurliman, Head Wine Maker, Herzog Wine Cellars Herzog Wine Cellars has produced either a gold medal, 90+ rated or Best Buy wine every year since they opened their doors.
  • 29. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 29 Fine Wine The story of a frum, female enologist by Bracha Rosman “I’m not the winemaker,” she clarifies. “Joe does that. I’m the enologist. Joe makes vineyard decisions—what to buy, when to pick, etc. He’s like a director, giving all of us the instructions and guid- ance to do our individual tasks.” Without all the scientific terms and jar- gon, enology is the science of winemaking. “Our understanding of winemaking allows us greater control over quality. People have been making wine for thou- sands of years; the scientific understand- ing of the components and the process allows modern winemakers to know the reasons they may experience certain sit- uations, and why certain wines age well and others don’t.” Alicia’s work is fascinating, as is the story of her becoming frum. Her eyes sparkle as her tale unfolds. “There were Fine Wine several moments that brought me to observant Judaism. I grew up seeking more than my family was practicing, but I didn’t know where to find it. I went to Paris as an au pair (nanny) and was placed with a secular Jewish family. Around Chanukah time, I was speaking with the youngest, a boy of seven, about the holiday and traditions surrounding it. He didn’t know what the letters on the dreidel meant. It was shocking to me; even then, I understood the tragedy of a young boy not knowing anything about a well-known Jewish holiday. When I came back to the U.S., I started keeping kosher after reading books by Rabbi Joseph Telushkin. I had no idea I would end up talking to the author 20 years later, working as a kosher wine- maker and covering my hair!” Early Friday morning, I set out for an hour-long drive to Oxnard, California, to the renowned Her- zog Wine Cellars. There, among the strawberry fields and rich farmland, I am scheduled to interview Alicia Wilbur, who is, in all probability, the only frum woman to hold the position of enologist. The first thing I notice upon meeting Alicia is the stylish tichel she’s wear- ing. Later, I find out that she generally wears a tichel to the lab because she wants to be easily identified as a reli- gious woman, and because exposure to various chemicals and compounds is not too sheitel-friendly. Alicia takes me to a nicely furnished conference room, where we shmooze about her work and personal life. It is ev- ident that Alicia loves her work. e · nol’o · gist A specialist in winemaking Enologist Reprinted with permission from Binah Magazine
  • 30. 30 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 “To me, kosher wine was sweet Con- cord grape wine. I thought I would go into winemaking to expand kosher wine, to make it elegant and serious.” Little did Alicia know just how sophis- ticated kosher wine had become. “I was just beginning to learn about wine in general, and getting to know a new wine every week. I loved working in Jewish communal service, but I wasn’t interested in pursuing that as a career. I moved to Sonoma, started working as a harvest intern and in a tasting room, and decided to go to school to learn how to make wine. “I went to Fresno State because they have a working commercial winery, and I was more interested in practical expe- rience versus research. It was a rigorous, scientific program. We learned microbi- ology, chemistry, and plant physiology, along with winemaking practices. I grad- uated with a B.S. in Enology and a minor in Chemistry. I also became a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2012.” A sommelier is a trained wine profes- sional, normally working in a restaurant directing the wine program and/or acting as the expert guide for diners in choosing their meal pairings. Certified is level two of four (fourth level, or Master Sommelier, is exceedingly difficult to ob- tain. Only 21 U.S. women hold the title). After meeting with Alicia, I speak to Mr. Motty Herzog, vice president of Herzog Winery, to get his take on work- ing with Alicia. He states that he is proud of the work Alicia performs. “She has a sophisticated palate, which is a must for an enologist and winemaker. She’s educated, articu- late, and excellent at what she does. She’s also very hands-on.” Joe, the head winemaker, isn’t Jewish, so he is not allowed to touch the wine or, for that matter, the grapes once the process begins. Now that Alicia is there, they no longer have to employ a Jewish middleman to handle the grapes and wine. She has gone the extra mile, Herzog Wine Cellars So where do winemaking and Yiddish- keit tie together? “It was an obvious connection for me to combine my passion for Judaism with my budding passion for wine. Wine has a central role in our rituals and in our simchos. I believe what we do is holy. Being involved on a daily basis in bringing a necessary and holy thing into people’s lives is a responsi- bility I take very seriously.” Alicia’s interest in wine at the time of her becoming frum was truly a gift from Hashem. It allowed her to grow as a Jewish woman and as a skilled, frum enologist, as wine plays a key factor in Yiddishkeit. She is as passionate about winemaking as she is about Yiddishkeit, and finds the two incredibly intertwined. “I didn’t consider myself fully a baalas te- shuvah before my wedding… and even after that, it was a long journey to becom- ing frum. My interest and knowledge of wine was well developed before I became religious, even though I was growing in observance the entire time. “My first exposure to fine wine was serving at an upscale restaurant. I was working concurrently as the program di- rector for Santa Cruz Hillel Foundation, where for the first time, I had to consider the kashrus of food, and schedule events around the Jewish calendar. “I grew up in a Reform household where those things just weren’t even on my radar. I had no idea Shabbat had offi- cial start and ending times until my job with Hillel. So I had this great exposure to living authentic Judaism, and still be- ing part of the world around me. “Hillel did a wine-tasting event in LA, and we brought Benyamin Cantz of Four Gates winery with us. I used some of my newly acquired wine words, something like ‘Wow, this wine is really jammy.’ Benyamin said, ‘I didn’t know you knew about wine.’ That moment changed the course of my life. I thought, ‘This is it—a winemaker thinks I know something about wine—he must be right!” It was hubris, of course; I knew absolutely nothing about wine, but that was the moment of epiphany for me. It was an obvious connection for me to combine my passion for Judaism with my budding passion for wine. Fine Wine
  • 31. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 31 A typical day for me is performing analysis in the lab, ensuring stable fermentations during crush, and making sure the wine is ready to bottle after crush. driving forklifts from harvest, crushing grapes, and then some, even though it’s not in her official job description. All in all, the Herzogs are just as thrilled with Alicia as she is with being Herzog Winery’s enologist. “It is exciting to be a frum woman in my position. I feel it is important for women to remain visible, to be well educated, and committed to their val- ues. I have a box on my desk, and I put money in it every time I get the comment, ‘You’re a woman!’ followed by, ‘And you do this?’ I intend to do- nate the money to a nonprofit organi- zation that supports STEM—Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math— education for young girls and STEM careers for women.” Aliciatakesmeupstairstoadoormarked “restricted authorized personnel only.” “Wow!” is my first reaction. Wine- making has really evolved from the foot-stomping method of yesteryear! The lab is filled with beakers and cyl- inders, an incubator, microscope, wine samples, a variety of machinery, and so much more. She names each appara- tus as we pass it, and gives me a brief explanation as to its function. She in- troduces me to the winemaker and as- sistant winemaker, then shows me her desk, where photos of her adorable chil- dren are displayed. Her white lab coat, pressed and starched, is hanging on a hook together with her purse. Alicia is just as at home in the lab as most wom- en are in the kitchen. “A typical day for me is performing analysis in the lab, ensuring stable fer- mentations during crush, and making sure the wine is ready to bottle after crush. We spend a lot of time down in the cellar tasting the barrel lots, and bringing samples upstairs for blending trials. Blending is a unique and magical thing, and a very fun part of winemak- ing. Even a small percentage of a differ- ent barrel lot or wine type can make a huge difference in the overall blend.” Alicia is part of the blending team. The winemaker, assistant winemaker, and Alicia can spend months blending sam- ples of wine to create the perfect recipe. Then Alicia continuously analyzes each barrel to assure the wines are sound. She monitors them on a monthly basis to make sure the wine is bacteria-free. I wonder how many new combina- tions can be thought up. I find out that winemaking is kind of like songwriting, and the combinations are almost infinite. Alicia surprises me with the fact that there are between three and five thou- sand varieties of grapes in the world. The Herzogs use one to two dozen varieties to make their wine. Every element of winemaking, from the grapes to the cli- mate, wind, and soil, results in a differ- ent tasting wine. Of course, Hashem in His greatness is the deciding factor. “A kosher winery is closed during Shabbos and Yom Tov. That may not seem significant from the outside, except when you think about when harvesting traditionally takes place— which is smack in the middle of our holidays. It creates a scheduling co- nundrum. When Yom Tov begins on Sunday, we are away from the winery Friday through Tuesday. That’s a big deal when we have several tons of fruit out in the vineyard ready to be picked! Or when we have gorgeous, high-end cabernet we just inoculated for fer- mentation, and now we have to walk away! This is when we really have to place faith in Hashem, and trust that it’s all going to be okay.” Alicia is very spiritual and devout. She is happy her family lives close to her children’s school and her job. It makes things easier all around. Their Jewish upbringing is important to both her and her husband as well as a source of much pride. “When Joe called me about this posi- tion, my family was living in New York, where I was working as a wine director and sommelier. I interviewed with the Herzogs during Chol Hamoed Pesach. When they offered me the job, there was absolutely no question I would take it. I was scheduled to start the begin- ning of June, when two of my children would still be in school. In order to take the position, I moved back to Califor- nia with my eight-month-old, leaving my husband and other children in New York. I had to find a community, a house, and schools for the children all on my own, with a baby and a new job. I woke up every day feeling like I was about to jump off a cliff. But there was no ques- tion I was going to do it! It is a dream come true. It only happened because of Hashem. And everyday is an exercise in trusting G-d.” Alicia hopes to be a winemaker one day, and with her talent and sophisticat- ed palate, learning the business aspects of the industry, mentoring under Joe, perhaps we will see her signature on a wine bottle in the soon-to-be future, as the world’s first and only frum female winemaker. Bracha Rosman is a published author. Her latest novel, Never Too Late, is in bookstores now. Fine Wine
  • 32. 32 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 How does the origin of the wine impact the taste? Wine is a natural product, which means that each region has a distinct environ- ment that is conducive to various grapes and varying styles. Some countries, especially the old world wine growing areas, like France, Portugal and Spain, have legal requirements mandating the grower to grow certain grapes in specially designated areas. For example, if a grower owned land in Bordeaux (the name of a geographical area), France, and he wanted to farm Pinot Noir grapes on his land, that wouldn’t be le- gal. Each area has a unique climate and soil. The climate in the origin/region will influence the style and taste of the wine. The soil plays an important role in the taste and style of the wine. What makes a wine expensive? There are four factors that play a role in the ultimate price of a bottle of wine; the cost of the grapes, labor costs, the quality of the oak barrels the wine ages in and the time a wine must age at the winery before it is released. The price of grapes really has more to do with the price of real estate. As the old adage goes; location, location, location. Napa and Alexander Valley are considered to be some of the best wine growing regions in the world. Obvious- ly the price of land in those areas will be significantly higher than land in the lesser known areas. The grapes grown on this land will cost up to 20 times more than grapes grown 100 miles away in the central coast of California. Another factor related to the grapes is the yield. The yield is how many tons of grapes are grown per acre of land. Less is more in this case. If there are less grapes these grapes get more sun and better energy from the soil. Lower yield means higher prices. Barrels can cost anywhere from $600 to $4000 per barrel. Each barrel will have its own unique signature on the finished wine. The cost of labor for premium wines is generally higher as the grapes are hand-picked to make sure only the best grapes make it into the wine. Age; a premium wine can be aged in any combination of barrel and bottle for up to three years before it’s released by the winery. This means the manu- facturer invests 3 years into the product before he sells his first bottles. Some examples of premium wines are Herzog Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet and Alexander Valley Cabernet. I have been drinking wine on Shabbos and Yom Tov for the last year or so and know that I really like Cabernet Sauvignon. But this Yom Tov I want to try something new like a Merlot or Shiraz but I’m scared I won’t like it. Is there really such a differ- ence between these wines? People often get hooked on a certain wine and don’t really try new ones. That’s a mistake – the whole fun with wine is trying new things, different types of varietals and new regions. It’s like going on vacation – you want to see new places as often as possible. Each region has its own climate and soil, which influences the flavors of its wines. Of course, the wine maker also plays an important role in terms of style and character of the wine. As for different types of wine, mostly they are made of different grapes, each of which will have its own character. So yes, there are differences, but think of them like the differences between apple varieties or cuts of meat. They are all in the same family, but have subtle (or sometimes not so subtle) differences in taste, texture, etc. How does one pair a wine to food? Wine is the only beverage that enhances the taste of food, especially savory foods. While water is neutral to food, soda and juices are sweet and disrupt the flavor of any meat, fish, or cheese dish. Think about it, if a glass of cola spilled onto you fish would you still eat it? Probably not, because they don’t go well together. Conversely, many recipes call for cook- ing food with wine - wine and food are meant for each other. When you select a pairing for the food you should choose a wine that won’t overpower the flavor of the food. Instead, choose one that will complement the food. As a rule of thumb; Mordy with
  • 33. Passover 2015 | 5775 diVine 33 Herzog Executive VP of Royal Wine Corp. big wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon will go better with big foods like red meat. If you’re having veal, which is gentler, you may want a rich white wine or a Pinot Noir which is a gentle red. Another more minor factor is the style of the wine, like a spicy wine for a spicy food or a wine with smoky flavors (from the oak) with a blackened meat, etc. But that is not is as important and selecting the right “size” wine to fit the right “size” food. What are some of the differences in wines and what does it mean when wine is described as cherry, marshmallow, vanilla or oaky? Regarding wine description, I’d like to clarify something: wines are made out of grapes, nothing more, and nothing less. So when you read about a fruity or earthy wine it is not something that was added to the wine, it’s merely nuances that you can pick up as you become more experienced. There are three elements that impart flavor to finished wines. The grapes, the barrels and the soil. The Grapes Let’s remember that wine is fermented fruit juice. So it’s no surprise for wine to have fruity flavors, like cherries and black currant. These flavors aren’t added to the wine, they’re nuances, like hints of cher- ries but not actual cherries. Darker, rich wines are usually described as dark fruits, like blackberries or black currant. Softer wines might be milder or have fruit characteristics such as strawberries for red wines or melon and citrus fruit for whites. The Barrels When a wine is aged in wood it will pick up certain elements from the wood. Aromas such as vanilla, smoke, marshmallow and chocolate are all woody flavors derived from the oak barrel. The Soil Some wines have a more earthy nose. The type of soil that grapes are grown in can give the wine specific characteristics. Mushrooms, leather or wet leaves are common characteristics that soil can impart on a wine. Each wine will have different nuances. A well-made wine is one where all these flavors are harmonious and work togeth- er to create a well-balanced, structured wine. The differences aren’t just the different grapes, but also come about as a result of the region the wine came from. An example of different regions can be found in Israel; despite the fact that it is such a small country, it has many differ- ent microclimates. The Golan Heights used to be the primary wine region and is still important, producing wines such as the Gamla wines, which are of superb value. However, the Judean Hills have become very prominent with wines like Castel, the highest rated Israeli Winery for the past five years by world-famous wine critic Robert Parker. Though they don’t realize it, most people smell wines (and food) the same way an expert does. It’s just that as you become more experienced and attuned to the things you are smelling you can better decipher what you’re smelling and tasting. How long does wine last once opened? Wine, left open and exposed to oxygen, will spoil as early as within a day. Luck- ily, the spoilage rate may be slowed by the tannic makeup of the wine (reds will last longer thanks to the preserva- tive powers of tannins) and temperature (wines kept at lower temperatures will also last longer). Re-corking and keeping a wine in the refrigerator will extend its life for 3 days or longer. And removing the oxygen from the bottle with a device such as a pump can pre- serve it for a week or longer. Now that we are all experts, we are ready to go to our fa- vorite wine shop and pick up some wine for Yom Tov. Any final advice? I believe it’s important to look for wine that presents a good QPR (quality price ratio). That is, if you’re spending money on anything you want a good bang for your buck. Baron Herzog is the number one name in value and that is true about any wine that carries its name. Theirs are consistently great wines at afford- able prices. Even their Reserves, which are their higher priced expressions, are superb and provide the consumer with wines that can age for years and provide great value for their cost.
  • 34. 34 diVine Passover 2015 | 5775 “It has always been with reluctance that they have taken us in; they are very proud winemakers. However, and this has been the secret of our success, Royal Wine has become known throughout the world as a company with serious respect for wine and winemaking tradition. Word has gotten around to the winemakers that we are not just Rabbis who are here to authorize; we do have a rigorous kashrus procedure, but we also bring with us a serious winemaking tradition. Moreover, rather than pop in at harvest time, I retain a personal friendship with the winemakers throughout the year.” Highlighting the success of this partnership, Menachem notes that it has happened that some of our barrels have come out better—and the winemakers asked to blend the kosher bar- rel into the regular blend of the château. Looking Ahead Menachem addresses the burning question; how did the raging anti-Semitism in France affect the French wine market, and the ability to produce kosher wines in France. “While sales of kosher wine within France may have come down a bit because some in France have emigrated, the overall relationship with the winemakers could not be stronger. The winemakers have supported us throughout these times, and reached out to us in the wake of the Hyper Cacher tragedy. They have known us for decades and have worked with us very closely, and we will be’ezras Hashem keep working together for many years.” Menachem speaks of his friend and mentor, Pierre Miodow- nick. Pierre had established the partnership with Royal Wine over three decades ago with the many châteaux in Bordeaux and the winemaking regions, and is known throughout the world as a master winemaker. Seven years ago, Pierre made Aliyah and has since launched Netofa Winery, a French style winery nestled in the mountains of the Galilee. Since that time Menachem has become the chief winemaker. His voice takes on a tone of reverence, as he says, “Pierre is my mentor, and I have learned much from him—much of what I have is through his gracious mentorship. Everything I do here in winemaking is a continuation of his work. We meet frequently at conferences and wine festivals through- out the world, and I hope to continue his work, walking the hills of the Bordeaux region, as well as the other areas of French Wine Country and other European wine locales, to bring the kosher consumer the best that the French wine market has to offer.” Vineyards of Bordeaux continued from page 12 each château determines its own wine blends each vintage, based on the quality of their grapes and the traditional “house” style that their faithful consumers will be looking for. A château, by the way, is the French word for “manor house”, but in the region it is customary for every wine growing estate, no matter how humble the house, to add “château” to their name. The plural is “châteaux” and is pro- nounced the same. Now on top of all of this are the various “classification” systems that purport to distinguish and mark hierarchies amongst many of the châteaux—hence talk of First Growths, French Kosher Wines continued from page 7 Second Growths, and the like. While this is all designed to make consumer choice easier and bring a measure of clarity to the picture, it has actually tended to make everything a bit more complicated than necessary for most consumers. Certainly for those at the start of their French wine explora- tion, none of that is strictly necessary. Thankfully, there are châteaux from both the left and right bank, classed and unclassed, that are producing some fabulous kosher wines, some of the very best of which are available here in the United States. With Passover on the horizon, now is the time to start this wonderful journey of discovery. Château des Laurets A Baron Edmond de Rothschild Winery
  • 35. BEST AWARDED BY THE BUYS! Carmel Selected Wines have been chosen as “Best Buys” by the prestigious Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Carmel Selected Israel’s Best Selling Wine BEST AWARDED BY THE BUYS! Carmel Selected Wines have been chosen as “Best Buys” by the prestigious Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Carmel Selected Israel’s Best Selling Wine
  • 36. O N O R