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Some Easy Dye Sources for Wool and Cotton – S. California Native Plants
Methods for Extracting the Dye
Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Achillea millefolium
Yarrow; Paswat
Flowers (3:1
flowers:wool)
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow
can cause skin rash;
Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; Fe Olive
Alnus rhombifolia
Inner bark
Chop into pieces & soak materials 2-
4 days; simmer; alum or no
mordant
Light red
Bark is high in tannins
(natural mordants)
Roots
Chop into pieces; simmer; soak 48
hr; alum
Tan
Arctostaphyllos species
Manzanita
Leaves
Chop; simmer; soak 48 hr; no
mordant
Yellow-brown to
gray-brown
Leaves high in tannins; dyes
have good permanence
Artemisia californica
CA Sagebrush
Entire branches
(leaves,
flowers, stems)
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow-gold
Asclepias species Entire plant Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green
Plant parts are toxic; use
precautions
Baccharis salicifolia or
B. pilularis
Mulefat; Coyote Bush
Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Gold-khaki
Yellow-orange
(from red
Mulefat stems)
Fe mordant makes color
slightly more brown
Ceanothus species
Flowers
Solar or cold-water soak to extract
dye and dye wool – a week or so
until color develops; alum
Green
Leaves, shoots
Cut to smaller pieces; simmer; soak
overnight; alum or no mordant
Tan-orange
Foliage contains tannins
(natural mordant)
Root
Pound to mash; soak 48 hrs; boil 1
hr., then cool ; alum
Red-brown
iv
Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Chrysothamnus
nauseosus / Ericameria
nauseosa
Rabbitbush
Flower heads,
fresh or dried
Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Bright clear
yellows
Yellow dye used by Navajo
weavers; green blossoms
and green inner bark can be
used for green dye
Clarkia species
Clarkia; Farewell-to-
Spring
flowers Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green & gold
Coreopsis gigantea
Giant Coreopsis
Flowers, stems,
roots
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight; alum
Bright orange to
red/orange
Bright, permanent dye
Fraxinus dipetala
CA Ash
Inner bark
Chop materials into pieces, pound
with hammer; simmer; soak up to 3
days; alum
Pink-red
Gnaphalium &
pseudognaphalium
Cudweeds
Whole plant or
just flowers
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight; alum
Yellows & greens
Grindelia species
Gum Plants
Flower heads
Simmer; soak overnight; alum; can
use ammonia rinse
Yellow
Use high plant/wool ratio.
Can also use Sn mordant
Stalks & leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum, Fe
or both; can use ammonia rinse
Green; khaki
Use high plant/wool ratio.
Can also use Sn mordant
Heteromeles arbutifolia
Toyon; Ashuwet
Leaves/ small
branches
Simmer; soak for up to several
weeks; alum. Or solar dye with
alum for 1-2 weeks.
Yellow to orange
Winter-collection produces
darker colors; for safety,
heat only outside
Berries
Mash ripe berries (winter); simmer
or solar dye with alum
orange
v
Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Oenothera elata
(hookeri)
Hooker’s Primrose
Foliage +/-
roots
Simmer; soak several days; alum Warm tan
Populus species
Cottonwood, Poplar
Flower buds or
Leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow, gold
Rhus integrifolia & R.
ovata
Lemonadeberry; Sugar Bush
Fallen leaves;
dried leaves
Simmer; soak 2-3 days; no mordant Brown, tan
Rich in tannins, so extract
can be used as a mordant
Salix gooddingii
Goodding’s Black Willow
Bark (inner) or
root
Chop into smaller pieces; soak 4-6
days; boil 1-2 hr; soak overnight
Apricot
Other Salix will also likely
produce good, fast dyes
Leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Alum/solar dye
Green
Gold
Sambucus nigra ssp.
cerulea/ S. mexicana
Blue (Mexican)
Elderberry
Berries
Mash fruit; solar dye or cold-water
extraction for a week or more; alum
(violet) or alum & salt (lilac color)
Lavender to gray May not be lightfast ;
Leaves
Chop into pieces; simmer 45 min.;
soak overnight or longer; alum
green
Flower stems
(yellow or
orange colored)
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight or several days; alum
Orange/yellow
Solidago species
Goldenrods
Flower heads
Boil/simmer yellow (mature) flowers
(no leaves) 1 hr. or until color is
strong; soak overnight; alum
Pale to medium
yellows; may be
strong golden
yellow
Varying shades of yellow,
depending on the amt. of
dye, mordant used, etc.;
colorfast; exc. for wool, silk
Leaves, foliage
Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight;
alum
Khaki to green
Vitis species
Wild Grapes
Leaves (fresh or
dried)
Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight;
alum
yellow

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Easy natural dye sources table

  • 1. iii Some Easy Dye Sources for Wool and Cotton – S. California Native Plants Methods for Extracting the Dye Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes Achillea millefolium Yarrow; Paswat Flowers (3:1 flowers:wool) Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow can cause skin rash; Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; Fe Olive Alnus rhombifolia Inner bark Chop into pieces & soak materials 2- 4 days; simmer; alum or no mordant Light red Bark is high in tannins (natural mordants) Roots Chop into pieces; simmer; soak 48 hr; alum Tan Arctostaphyllos species Manzanita Leaves Chop; simmer; soak 48 hr; no mordant Yellow-brown to gray-brown Leaves high in tannins; dyes have good permanence Artemisia californica CA Sagebrush Entire branches (leaves, flowers, stems) Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow-gold Asclepias species Entire plant Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green Plant parts are toxic; use precautions Baccharis salicifolia or B. pilularis Mulefat; Coyote Bush Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; alum Gold-khaki Yellow-orange (from red Mulefat stems) Fe mordant makes color slightly more brown Ceanothus species Flowers Solar or cold-water soak to extract dye and dye wool – a week or so until color develops; alum Green Leaves, shoots Cut to smaller pieces; simmer; soak overnight; alum or no mordant Tan-orange Foliage contains tannins (natural mordant) Root Pound to mash; soak 48 hrs; boil 1 hr., then cool ; alum Red-brown
  • 2. iv Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes Chrysothamnus nauseosus / Ericameria nauseosa Rabbitbush Flower heads, fresh or dried Simmer; soak overnight; alum Bright clear yellows Yellow dye used by Navajo weavers; green blossoms and green inner bark can be used for green dye Clarkia species Clarkia; Farewell-to- Spring flowers Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green & gold Coreopsis gigantea Giant Coreopsis Flowers, stems, roots Chop materials; simmer; soak overnight; alum Bright orange to red/orange Bright, permanent dye Fraxinus dipetala CA Ash Inner bark Chop materials into pieces, pound with hammer; simmer; soak up to 3 days; alum Pink-red Gnaphalium & pseudognaphalium Cudweeds Whole plant or just flowers Chop materials; simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellows & greens Grindelia species Gum Plants Flower heads Simmer; soak overnight; alum; can use ammonia rinse Yellow Use high plant/wool ratio. Can also use Sn mordant Stalks & leaves Simmer; soak overnight; alum, Fe or both; can use ammonia rinse Green; khaki Use high plant/wool ratio. Can also use Sn mordant Heteromeles arbutifolia Toyon; Ashuwet Leaves/ small branches Simmer; soak for up to several weeks; alum. Or solar dye with alum for 1-2 weeks. Yellow to orange Winter-collection produces darker colors; for safety, heat only outside Berries Mash ripe berries (winter); simmer or solar dye with alum orange
  • 3. v Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes Oenothera elata (hookeri) Hooker’s Primrose Foliage +/- roots Simmer; soak several days; alum Warm tan Populus species Cottonwood, Poplar Flower buds or Leaves Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow, gold Rhus integrifolia & R. ovata Lemonadeberry; Sugar Bush Fallen leaves; dried leaves Simmer; soak 2-3 days; no mordant Brown, tan Rich in tannins, so extract can be used as a mordant Salix gooddingii Goodding’s Black Willow Bark (inner) or root Chop into smaller pieces; soak 4-6 days; boil 1-2 hr; soak overnight Apricot Other Salix will also likely produce good, fast dyes Leaves Simmer; soak overnight; alum Alum/solar dye Green Gold Sambucus nigra ssp. cerulea/ S. mexicana Blue (Mexican) Elderberry Berries Mash fruit; solar dye or cold-water extraction for a week or more; alum (violet) or alum & salt (lilac color) Lavender to gray May not be lightfast ; Leaves Chop into pieces; simmer 45 min.; soak overnight or longer; alum green Flower stems (yellow or orange colored) Chop materials; simmer; soak overnight or several days; alum Orange/yellow Solidago species Goldenrods Flower heads Boil/simmer yellow (mature) flowers (no leaves) 1 hr. or until color is strong; soak overnight; alum Pale to medium yellows; may be strong golden yellow Varying shades of yellow, depending on the amt. of dye, mordant used, etc.; colorfast; exc. for wool, silk Leaves, foliage Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight; alum Khaki to green Vitis species Wild Grapes Leaves (fresh or dried) Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight; alum yellow