1. iii
Some Easy Dye Sources for Wool and Cotton – S. California Native Plants
Methods for Extracting the Dye
Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Achillea millefolium
Yarrow; Paswat
Flowers (3:1
flowers:wool)
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow
can cause skin rash;
Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; Fe Olive
Alnus rhombifolia
Inner bark
Chop into pieces & soak materials 2-
4 days; simmer; alum or no
mordant
Light red
Bark is high in tannins
(natural mordants)
Roots
Chop into pieces; simmer; soak 48
hr; alum
Tan
Arctostaphyllos species
Manzanita
Leaves
Chop; simmer; soak 48 hr; no
mordant
Yellow-brown to
gray-brown
Leaves high in tannins; dyes
have good permanence
Artemisia californica
CA Sagebrush
Entire branches
(leaves,
flowers, stems)
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow-gold
Asclepias species Entire plant Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green
Plant parts are toxic; use
precautions
Baccharis salicifolia or
B. pilularis
Mulefat; Coyote Bush
Leaves & stems Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Gold-khaki
Yellow-orange
(from red
Mulefat stems)
Fe mordant makes color
slightly more brown
Ceanothus species
Flowers
Solar or cold-water soak to extract
dye and dye wool – a week or so
until color develops; alum
Green
Leaves, shoots
Cut to smaller pieces; simmer; soak
overnight; alum or no mordant
Tan-orange
Foliage contains tannins
(natural mordant)
Root
Pound to mash; soak 48 hrs; boil 1
hr., then cool ; alum
Red-brown
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Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Chrysothamnus
nauseosus / Ericameria
nauseosa
Rabbitbush
Flower heads,
fresh or dried
Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Bright clear
yellows
Yellow dye used by Navajo
weavers; green blossoms
and green inner bark can be
used for green dye
Clarkia species
Clarkia; Farewell-to-
Spring
flowers Simmer; soak overnight; alum Green & gold
Coreopsis gigantea
Giant Coreopsis
Flowers, stems,
roots
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight; alum
Bright orange to
red/orange
Bright, permanent dye
Fraxinus dipetala
CA Ash
Inner bark
Chop materials into pieces, pound
with hammer; simmer; soak up to 3
days; alum
Pink-red
Gnaphalium &
pseudognaphalium
Cudweeds
Whole plant or
just flowers
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight; alum
Yellows & greens
Grindelia species
Gum Plants
Flower heads
Simmer; soak overnight; alum; can
use ammonia rinse
Yellow
Use high plant/wool ratio.
Can also use Sn mordant
Stalks & leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum, Fe
or both; can use ammonia rinse
Green; khaki
Use high plant/wool ratio.
Can also use Sn mordant
Heteromeles arbutifolia
Toyon; Ashuwet
Leaves/ small
branches
Simmer; soak for up to several
weeks; alum. Or solar dye with
alum for 1-2 weeks.
Yellow to orange
Winter-collection produces
darker colors; for safety,
heat only outside
Berries
Mash ripe berries (winter); simmer
or solar dye with alum
orange
3. v
Plant Species Plant Part Extraction method/ mordant Color Notes
Oenothera elata
(hookeri)
Hooker’s Primrose
Foliage +/-
roots
Simmer; soak several days; alum Warm tan
Populus species
Cottonwood, Poplar
Flower buds or
Leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum Yellow, gold
Rhus integrifolia & R.
ovata
Lemonadeberry; Sugar Bush
Fallen leaves;
dried leaves
Simmer; soak 2-3 days; no mordant Brown, tan
Rich in tannins, so extract
can be used as a mordant
Salix gooddingii
Goodding’s Black Willow
Bark (inner) or
root
Chop into smaller pieces; soak 4-6
days; boil 1-2 hr; soak overnight
Apricot
Other Salix will also likely
produce good, fast dyes
Leaves
Simmer; soak overnight; alum
Alum/solar dye
Green
Gold
Sambucus nigra ssp.
cerulea/ S. mexicana
Blue (Mexican)
Elderberry
Berries
Mash fruit; solar dye or cold-water
extraction for a week or more; alum
(violet) or alum & salt (lilac color)
Lavender to gray May not be lightfast ;
Leaves
Chop into pieces; simmer 45 min.;
soak overnight or longer; alum
green
Flower stems
(yellow or
orange colored)
Chop materials; simmer; soak
overnight or several days; alum
Orange/yellow
Solidago species
Goldenrods
Flower heads
Boil/simmer yellow (mature) flowers
(no leaves) 1 hr. or until color is
strong; soak overnight; alum
Pale to medium
yellows; may be
strong golden
yellow
Varying shades of yellow,
depending on the amt. of
dye, mordant used, etc.;
colorfast; exc. for wool, silk
Leaves, foliage
Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight;
alum
Khaki to green
Vitis species
Wild Grapes
Leaves (fresh or
dried)
Boil/simmer 1 hr.; soak overnight;
alum
yellow