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The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight
4th Edition
Milan, February 16th, 2017
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 1Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight panel
Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Consumer Insight
10
Nationalities
~36 k€
Avg. luxury spend
12 000+
Consumers
Vs.
2016 Ed.
1
• +1 000 in China
• +1 000 in US
• +15 k€
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 2Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
We push to be relevant on the highest segments of
the luxury consumers
Luxury yearly spend1
(k€ per consumer)
> 100 k€
50 - 100 k€
20 - 50 k€
10 - 20 k€
5 - 10 k€
Average Spend for
overall sample
3rd edition
1 %
6 %
28 %
35 %
30 %
~21 k€
1. Expenditure includes personal luxury (e.g. handbags, shoes, sunglasses and other accessories, clothing) and experiential luxury (e.g. hotels, wine and
spirits, exclusive vacations). Excluded cars, yachts, smartphones & tablets
Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight
True-Luxury Consumers sample distribution (% respondents)
Clusters size evolution 4th vs 3rd Edition
7 %
18 %
30 %
25 %
20 %
~ 36 k€
4th edition
7% 25%
2
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 3Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
We set higher thresholds by category vs previous
edition to identify a "True Luxury Consumer"
>400 € / eachSmart watches
Threshold Price
>1 000 € / each
>300 € / each
>180 € / each
>180 € / each2
>1 400 € / each
>1 200 € / each
>1 600 € / each
>400 € / each
>200 € / each
>250 € / each
>100 € / each
>2 000 € / each
>100 000 € / each
>750 000 € / each
>450 € / night
>4 000 € / pers./ week
>3 000 € / each
>100 € / bottle
>1 200 € / each
>200 € / person
Category
Handbags
Shoes
Sunglasses
Other accessories1
Outerwear / Coats
Dresses for women
Suits for men
Sweaters / Knitwear
Shirts / Topwear
Jeans / Pants / Skirts
Fragrances & Cosmetics
Watches
Cars
Luxury Boats / Yachts
Hotels (leisure)
Cruise / resort
Design furniture
Wine & Spirits
Jewelry
Restaurants
>1 000 € / eachLighting
>1 000 € / eachSmartphones / Tablets
1. "Other accessories " includes scarves, wallets, belts and ties 2. > 180€/each for Small Leather Goods, >150 €/each for Silk Goods
Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight; BCG
Minimum spent 5 k€ in the past year
on personal luxury goods
Threshold PriceCategoryvs. '16 vs. '16
Personal Luxury Goods Experiential Luxury Goods
3
Other Luxury Goods
Threshold PriceCategory vs. '16
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 4Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition
Main Outcomes
Steady market, True luxury consumers growing
A rising perception of price-value misalignment
More casual, more customized!
True luxury consumers buying more at home
Luxury goes omnichannel
Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience
#Luxurygoessocial
Behavioral consumer segment evolution
4
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 5Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Steady market, True-Luxury Consumers growing
primocapitolo.pptx 6Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
The global luxury market worth ~860Bn€ in 2016,
experiential growing faster than personal luxury
1. Personal goods include accessories, apparel, watches & jewelry, fragrances & cosmetics
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
Global luxury goods market (B€)
305 317 366 412 445 464 522 542
807207 233
257
280 285 291
322 318
380
2010
551511
2009
1 187
2023F
623
2011
860
2016
9.3%
5.6%
844
2015
755
2014
730
2013
692
2012
@ Retail value
09-13
6
Personal1 Experiential
13-16 16-23F
CAGR
8.3%
9.9%
3.8% 2-3%
6.8% 5-6%
4-5%
primocapitolo.pptx 7Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Out of ~400 Mn Luxury Consumers only 17Mn
identified as "True-Luxury Consumers"
Absolute
Top Absolute
Entry Absolute
4.5
1.3
11
6
2.0
14
Total True-Luxury 17 22
CLUSTER 2016
# (M) Bn(€) Bn(€)# (M)
2023
Top Aspirational 21 28
Other Aspirational 375 440
~415 ~490Total Luxury
Consumers
+5
+72
+75
2 k€
5 k€
20 k€
10 k€
Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
7
50 k€ Beyond money 0.4 0.5
primocapitolo.pptx 8Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
A further polarizing pyramid ahead: True-Luxury
Consumers up from ~29% to ~32% of global market
4.5
1.3
11
6
2.0
14
17 22
2016
# (M) Bn(€)1 Bn(€)1
2023
93
30
107
250
141
53
147
381
21 2861 92
375 549 715
+131
+196
~415 ~860 ~1185
+325
Total Luxury
Consumers
# (M)
~490
440
1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts
Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
8
CLUSTER
2 k€
5 k€
20 k€
10 k€
50 k€ 0.4 0.520 40
Absolute
Top Absolute
Entry Absolute
Top Aspirational
Other Aspirational
Beyond money
Total True-Luxury
primocapitolo.pptx 9Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and
steadier growth for the future
Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
9
2 k€
5 k€
20 k€
10 k€
50 k€ Personal Experiential
True
Luxury
CAGR 2016 - 2023
2-3% 5-6%
6-7%
~4%
7-8%
5-6%
4-5%
1-2%Aspirational
4-5%
Total
primocapitolo.pptx 10Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
In a slower personal luxury market, there will be
clear winners and losers among Brands
2009 - 2013 2013 - 2016
Turnover growth for 20 leading personal luxury brands1
Strong Growth
CAGR >10%
Flat
CAGR 0% to +4%
Decreasing
CAGR < 0%
Growth
CAGR 4% to 10%
2
1
3
14
8
1
6
5
2016 - 2023
# brands
1. Sample of 20 leading brands in personal luxury
Source: Press Search; BCG Analysis
10
8.3% 3.8%
Average Market
Growth
...
~2-3%
primocapitolo.pptx 11Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
In a slower personal luxury market, winners and
losers expected also among categories
21%
33%
40%
10%15%
-7%
0%
-25%
True Luxury Consumers net appetite by category1
(net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%)
Shoes
Fragrances &
Cosmetics
Watches
& Jewelry
Handbags Sunglasses
Small leather
goods
Silk
goods
Clothing2
1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category (Positive – Negative).
Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) 2. Including jeans / pants; shirts / topwear; dresses / suits; coats / outerwear; knitwear
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
11
primocapitolo.pptx 12Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Appetite driven by Millennials with shoes and F&C
key to recruit them - Handbags polarized
Overall
-25%
-7%
0%
10%
15%
33%
40%
21%
By generation
24%
-22%
-3%
3%
14%
23%
36%
43%
-11%
0%
10%
10%
18%
-27%
32%
43%
-14%
-16%
-10%
-16%
13%
22%
13%
-33%
12
Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials
Net appetite by category1
1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category
(Positive – Negative). Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
primocapitolo.pptx 13Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Chinese and Americans will continue to drive the
appetite for luxury consumption
11%
18%
13%
-10%
5%
11%
20%
24%
41%
46%
Overall
24%
True Luxury Consumers net appetite by nationality1
(net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%)
1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative)
2. Share of nationalities in terms of luxury market value
Source: BCG Luxury Market model; BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries)
13
primocapitolo.pptx 14Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
True-Luxury Consumers showing a good appetite
for 2017
"Do you expect to spend more or less on luxury products in the next year?"
Less
(-20%)
Same
More
(+20%)
True Luxury
Barometer®1 24pp
2017E
1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative).
The index represents a proxy of the expected growth of spend in Luxury by Top Luxury consumers
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries)
9pp -5pp 13pp
20152013 2014
17pp
2016
33%
43%
29%
48%
23%
24% 24%
39%
37%
21%
41%
38%
14
43%
17%
40%
True Luxury Barometer®
primocapitolo.pptx 15Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Only 17% of true luxury consumers declare they will
spend less in 2017
• Luxury prices increase
• Personal luxury saturation
• Less special occasions to attend
• Lower interest in luxury brands
• Partial shift to premium / fast fashion brands
• Brands selling too much non core categories
• Economic instability
• Travel less frequently
• Lower confidence in future income
• Fear of terroristic attacks
Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
" What are the key reasons for which you
have spent less?"
External
Luxury
sector
related
43%
57%
43%
17%
40%
Less
(-20%)
Same
More
(+20%)
"This year have you spent more or
less on luxury products vs last year?"
15
Mainly low
spender
Millennials –
mostly European
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 16Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
A rising perception of price – value misalignment
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 17Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Over the last years the price of luxury iconic items
has increased by far more than inflation
155
118
100
2010 2012 2014 2016
3 x
Luxury iconic
bags price1
Global
inflation
1. Average luxury products price increase calculated based on 2010-2016 list prices of a panel of iconic luxury handbags
Source: Press search; World Bank; BCG analysis
Index: 2010 = 100
17
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 18Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
>50% of Luxury consumers perceive a price/value
misalignment. Americans & Millennials most disappointed
% of
respondents
Overall
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Do you feel a progressive separation between overall value of Luxury products and their price?"
By nationality By generation
52 %
48 %
58 %
51 % 49 % 44 %
42 %
49 % 51 % 56 %
55 % 50 % 46 %
45 % 50 % 54 %
Gen. X
18
Baby B. &
Silver
Millennials
No
Yes
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 19Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
2 / 3 of misalignment perception driven by price, 1 / 3
by exclusivity loss and product quality issues
Discrepancy
100 %
Product
value
decrease
63 %
37 %
Price
increase
1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Thinking about your favorite luxury brand, you told that you noticed a discrepancy
between the overall value and the price. What are the main reasons for this?"
19
Emerging Markets
Mature Markets
#1
#2
#3
Lower manufacture quality
Lower material quality
Iconic products' exclusivity loss
% of respondents perceiving
a price discrepancy
Key reasons1
#1
#2
#3
Lack of innovation
Iconic products' exclusivity loss
Overall Brand's exclusivity loss
Key reasons1
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 20Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
8 out of 10 disappointed consumers plan to react :
In ~50% of cases likely to translate in lost sales
Reaction
83 %
No reaction
17 %
Perceived
misalignment
100 %
"In case of a progressive separation between the price and the perceived product value,
what would you do?
20
17% 15%
13%
9%
25%
10% 10%
Buy lower
priced
from same
brand
Trade
down to
premium
brands
Renounce
to buy
Go to
brand’s
outlets to
find
discounts
Look for
discounts
offline
(multibrand)
Look for
discounts
online
Buy other
luxury
brand
Going off-price / lower priced itemsLost sales
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
% of respondents perceiving a price discrepancy
45%
Lost sales
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 21Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
As a result ~60 out of ~230 Brands surveyed losing
traction, especially total look ones
"Is there a brand on which you have the feeling that you have reduced /
you will probably reduce your luxury spending?"
Affected by
spend decrease
26%
Resilient
74%
Total personal
luxury brands
100%
Note: Out of the total 12,000 respondents, 79% mentioned a luxury brand on which they reduced their spend. Total personal luxury brands include 230 brands
spontaneously recalled by respondents. Brands affected by spending decrease include those mentioned by more than 50 respondents. Possible to mention
only one brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
21
Lifestyle /
total look
Category
specialists
19%
36%
% of brands recalled by respondents
Brands Affected by
spend decrease
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 22Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Trading down is an attitude also for beyond money
Luxury consumers . Americans the most active
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury
brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?"
Total
59%
41%
No
Yes
93%
43%
19%
7%
57%
81%
90%
10%
56%57%
63%
44%43%
37%
20-50 k€5-20 k€ > 50 k€
By luxury spend By nationality
22
% of respondents
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 23Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Luxury Consumers trading down to premium brands
almost 2x than to fast fashion ones
Note: Multiple options answer. In calculating the % of respondents trading down to premium and fast fashion brands, respondents trading down to both
premium and fast fashion brands were counted twice
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury
brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?"
Premium
Total
64%
Fast
fashion
36%
No
Yes
59%
Total
41%
23
70%
% of respondents trading down% of respondents
46%
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 24Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
More Casual, more Customized!
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 25Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal
for 2 / 3rd of True-Luxury Consumers
Decrease of
formal in favor
of casual
66 %
No change
perceived
in formal
34 %
Overall
100 %
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Has your attitude towards formal wear changed?"
25
% of respondents
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 26Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Casualwear fuelled by wardrobe saturation for the
eldest, higher appeal and acceptance for the youngest
Note: multiple options answer (up to three reasons)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
55%
37%
Formal wear now
too expensive
Follow casualization
at the office
More comfort
with casual
Casual suitable
to more occasions
Enough formal wear
for formal occasions
48%
51%
29%
"What are the key reasons driving the lower appeal for formal wear in your mind?"
26
% of respondents
with lower appeal
for formal wear
Overall By generation
33%
50%
40%
55%
52%
48%
36%
28%
50%
54%
40%
28%
19%
49%
61%
Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 27Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
The Luxurization of the Casualwear
Source: BCG Luxury market model
27
Market @ Retail value (Bn€)
Luxury sneakers
2009
9.3 Bn€
3.0
2016
Sneakers
Other shoes
16.0 Bn€
0.9
8.4
13.0
Luxury down jackets
Market @ Retail value (Bn€)
2009
9.6 Bn€
2.0
2016
Down jackets
Other outerwear
13.0 Bn€
0.5
9.1
11.0
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 28Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Growing demand for customization
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Is customization relevant for you when purchase luxury?"
18 %
2016
17 %16 %
20152014
13 %
2013
10 %
13 %
15 %
23 % 23 % 22 %
20 %
15 % 15 %
23 %
22%
28
% of respondents answering "Yes"
Avg.
14%
Avg.
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 29Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Bespoke is the most desired feature;
different customization priorities by product category
Service Initials or
writings
Product
configuration
Made to
measure
Bespoke
products
"Which are the elements of customization that you value the most?"
% of respondents considering each customization aspect relevant
1st category
by relevance
Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
29
57% 53% 52% 50% 47%
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 30Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Made-in Italy still leading, fuelled by Apparel,
Bags and Shoes
% of respondents
that check Made-in1
3%
6%
6%
10%
12%
23%
29%
"Which country of manufacturing do you consider the best for luxury products?"
...
11
4
5
0
-5
-2
0
Δ 2014-2016 (pp)
Drivers of the increase (2014-2016)
2014 2016
21% 18%
2014 2016
15% 10%
-3 pp -5 pp
2014 2016
20%
40%
+20 pp
2014 2016
19%
32%
+13 pp
2014 2016
16% 26%
2014 2016
35%
53%
+10 pp +18 pp
2014 2016
16% 17%
+1 pp
2014 2016
14% 20%
+6 pp
2014 2016
11% 11%
2014 2016
8% 10%
+0 pp +2 pp
2014 2016
8% 10%
+2 pp
2014 2016
10% 17%
+7 pp
1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
30
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 31Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Made-in Italy recognized worldwide, while
Made-in U.S. mainly appreciated by Americans
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
% of respondents
Made-in preference (Italy vs. US) by consumer nationality
Focus on Personal Luxury1
1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
31
Made-in
Made-in
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 32Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
True Luxury Consumers buying more at home
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 33Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
True-Luxury Consumers are buying more in their
home country
33
39%
65%
61%
35%
Local
Abroad
20162014
"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1
% of Chinese respondents
65%
77%
35%
23%
Local
Abroad
20162014
"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1
% of American respondents
1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in
2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options
answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
Of which
16%
online
Of which
20%
online
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 34Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
65%
41%
39%30%
2013 2014 2015 2016
Locally
(Mainland
China)
Chinese increasingly back home to buy luxury
34
"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"
% of Chinese buying locally1
1. Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan excluded
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
Daigou Effect
High Price Gap
Strong Yuan
Government Initiatives
(Duty Rates, Boarder Controls)
Global Pricing
Weak Yuan
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 35Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
True Luxury Consumers are buying more in their
home country
35
"Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1
Top destinations for luxury shopping2 Top destinations for luxury shopping2
Tokyo
London
Paris
New York
Milan
London
Tokyo
Paris
Dubai
Milan
% of American respondents
1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in
2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options
answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
#1
#3
#2
#4
#5
% of Chinese respondents
2015 2016
#1
#3
#2
#4
#5
Paris
Tokyo
New York
Milan
Dubai
2015 2016
Paris
London
Milan
Dubai
Hong Kong
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 36Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Luxury goes Omnichannel
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 37Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Online
solo
100%
Total
7%
Show
rooming2
38%
8%
Store
solo
ROPO1
47%
Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the
real trend vs. online solo sales
100
% of respondents on last purchase
100
"Where have you bought your last luxury item? Where have you researched it?"
1. Researched Online, Purchased Offline 2. Researched Offline, Purchased Online
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
37
53%
46%
2013
10%
Show
Rooming
2
100%
Online
solo
Total
9%
ROPO1Store
solo
39%
42%
61%
51%
2016
Omnichannel
Digitally Influenced
Omnichannel
Digitally Influenced
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 38Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Digital influence growth fuelled by Americans
1. Considering the last luxury purchase
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
By nationality
"Where have you bought the last item purchased? Where have you researched it?"
38
Digitally influenced
purchases1 2016 (%)
( On line solo + Show
rooming + ROPO)
61%
Overall
Trend 2013-2016
(Δ pp)
64% 72% 54%
8 pp
22 pp
6 pp
9 pp
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 39Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Millennials the most digitally influenced
% of respondents on
last purchase
Overall
Baby B. & SilverGen. X
By generation
1. Mainly personal items (~90%), among experiential includes wine & spirts, furniture, smartphones,..
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
10%
9%
42%
39%
10%
6%
28%
56%
10%
7%
41%
42%
10%
12%
46%
32%
"Where have you bought the last luxury item purchased? Where have you researched it?"1
Millennials
Store solo
ROPO
Showrooming
Online solo
Digitally influenced
purchases (%)
39
68% 58% 44%61%
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 40Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
39%
61%
60% of online purchases are perceived to be
additional to physical retail purchases
"Do you have the feeling that your spending online is in addition to or
cannibalizing your luxury spending in physical stores?"
1. Considering the online channel among the top 3 channels used over the last 12 months
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
By nationalityOverall
Cannibalization 44% 38% 34%
23%
56% 62% 66%
77%
2016
online purchases
19% 15%21% 22%
40
17%
In addition
to physical
% of respondents1
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 41Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Full price multibrand eShops key for Millennials :
Brands' websites and Marketplaces for the eldest
% of respondents Overall
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Which kind of online store did you buy the product from?"
Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials
By generation
5%
15%
46%
34%
Brand owned online
stores
Full price multi-brand
online stores
(e.g. Net à Porter, Dept.
Store e-commerce)
Discount specialized
online stores (e.g. Yoox)
14% 15%
20%
49% 46% 36%
33%
7%6%
37%
4%
33%
41
Online marketplace
(e.g. Amazon, TMall, JD.com)
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 42Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Demand for an omnichannel experience is growing
fast , driven by Chinese and Americans
% of respondents
Overall
1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"How important is it for you that a brand can be
reached through different channels?"
By nationality (2016)
46%
39%
15%
37%
38%
25%Not important
Somehow
important
Not negotiable /
very important
2014 2016
54% 51%
40% 39%
38%
36%
41% 38%
8% 13%
19% 23%
42
% of respondents considering omni-
channel not negotiable/very important
"What you would expect when
interacting with your preferred luxury
brand through multiple channels?"1
Consistent Brand
Image
54%
Same Rewards39%
Integrated Delivery
and Service Level
49%
Customer relationship
Management
38%
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 43Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
-50%
0%
50%
100%
How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the
omnichannel expectations? (I)
43
1. Only personal luxury goods, Included only brands with statistical significant observations in total satisfaction
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016)
Omnichannel Satisfaction Index = (People mentioning as the best brand – people mentioning as the worse brand)
~100 brands included
in the analysis1
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 44Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the
omnichannel expectations? (II)
44
1. Only personal luxury, Included only brands with statistical significant observations 2.# respondents who selected the brand as best brand –
# respondents who selected the brand as worst brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
Consistent brand image
Integrated delivery
and service level
Same Rewards
across channels
Customer relationship
management
Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016)
Satisfaction Index2
Omnichannel needs
~100 brands included
in the analysis1
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 45Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 46Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales;
Japan and China more resilient
% of respondents
Overall
"Have you bought your last luxury item from a monobrand store?"
By nationality (2016)
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
2014
35%
2016
27%
6%
32%
26%
12%
26%
9%
11%
6%
21%
12%15%
20%20%
30%
3%
29%
7%
19%
27%
36%
11%
46
At homeAbroad
Trend '14-'16
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 47Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Too many stores opened in the past vs. market growth
1. # stores
Source: BCG Analysis, "Luxury Goods Store Wars 2016" - Bernstein
47
... 201620152014
3x
5.0%
0-1%
2x
1.9%
1.6%
0.0%
4.0%
Market Growth Retail Footprint Growth (Store #)
Global retail footprint1 growth vs. Personal Luxury Market growth (2014-2016)
@ Constant Exchange Rate
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 48Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Shopping experience and product assortment the
main reasons for monobrand disaffection
% of respondents
"Do you have the feeling that you will
purchase more or less frequently in
monobrand stores?"
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
21%
52%
27%
48
Less
frequently
More
frequently
Same
frequency 16%17%
32%33%
ProximityLack of
product
assortment
newness
Monotonous
shopping
experience
Price
"Which are the reasons for which you
are purchasing less frequently
in mono-brand physical stores?" 1
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 49Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
But monobrand still at the heart of an omnichannel
True-Luxury consumer experience around the Brand
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
% of respondents
on last purchase
49%
15%
7%
27%
Monobrand
Solo
Researched in
Monobrand
Purchased Online
Researched in
Monobrand
Purchased in other
physical channel
Monobrand
Influence
Reasons to buy in Monobrand
Try & touch the product
Product customization
Offer range of the brand
Experienced / trustable
sales staff
Presence of signature /
exclusive items
Monobrand influence
#1
#3
#2
#4
#5
49
22%
Monobrand influencing 22% of purchases
done in other channels
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 50Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
#luxurygoessocial
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 51Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Word of Mouth the 1st influence lever on True Luxury
Consumers, thanks to digital /social media
% of respondents
Seen
Worn
12%
Celebrities 16%
Events 17%
TV &
Movies
23%
Store
windows
26%
Brand
websites3 33%
Magazines2
39%
WoM1
57%19% 38%
13%
Seen
Worn
Celebrities 20%
Events 20%
TV &
Movies
24%
Brand
websites3 34%
Store
windows
39%
WoM1
43%32% 11%
Magazines 2
50%
Note: Multiple options answer (ranking of five levers) 1 Includes physical Word Of Mouth, Social Media and Other online blogs 2. Editorials and
Commercial in Magazines. Includes both traditional & digital magazines 3. Includes also Brand's App
Source: BCG 2014 ad hoc study (10'000 respondents in 10 countries)
51
"Which of these levers has an impact on how you develop opinions or purchase decisions?"
2013 2016
Physical Social Media & Online Blogs
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 52Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
72% of true luxury consumers use Social Media to
interact with their favourite luxury brands
1. At least one Social Media used more than once per day
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"Do you use Social Media to interact with luxury brands?"
% of respondents
Overall
Baby B. & SilverGen. X
By generation
Millennials
By nationality
57%
15%
28%
64% 56%
29%
16%
24%
23% 28%
47%
13%
70%
62%
51%
32%
12%
16%
15%
17%
18%
34%
51%
22%
52
No
Yes,
occasionally
Yes,
frequently1
72%
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 53Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Facebook, YouTube, Instagram the hottest Platforms
Instant messaging with very high frequency
1. Tencent QQ 2. Sina Weibo
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
"How frequently and which Social Media do you use to interact with luxury brands or
social media peers to share opinions?"
53
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
Users (% of respondents)
Frequency
of usage
Facebook
≥1 time per day
≤1 time per week
1)
2)
Focus on Content
Focus on
Interaction/Service
primocapitolo.pptx 54Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Behavioral Consumer Segments Evolution
primocapitolo.pptx 55Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Where does behavioral segmentation apply?
2 k€
5 k€
20 k€
10 k€
1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts
Note: rounded numbers
Source: BCG Luxury Market model
55
50 k€
Top Aspirational
Other Aspirational
True-Luxury
Consumers
Occasional Luxury Consumers
Behavioral Segmentation
primocapitolo.pptx 56Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
14
5
6
13
16
22
-4
312
-3-1-1-1
255
Absolute Luxurer, Megacitier and Social Wearer have
driven market growth over the last years
Contribution to luxury market growth by segment (2013-2016)
Abs.
Luxurer
Megacitier
Social
Wearer
#LITTLE
PRINCE
Experiencer
Rich
Upstarter
Status
Seaker
Timeless
Proper
Luxe
Immune
Fashionista
Omni
Gifter
Class-
pirational
56
of total
growth
Total P & E Market generated by True Luxury & Top Aspirational consumers – Bn€
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
Absolute Luxurer growing by spend increase, Megacitier
and Social Wearer growing by luxury consumer number
83 54 23 21 38 9 17 20 5 20 16 6
Segment Value
Size, Bn€
2013 2016
~90%
primocapitolo.pptx 57Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Each geography has its own segment mix
Overall
Classpirational
Experiencer
Timeless Proper
8%
8%
9%
10%
9%
11%
5%
11%
8%
8%
9%
6%
Status Seeker
Social Wearer
Absolute Luxurer
Rich Upstarter
#LITTLEPRINCE
Luxe Immune
Fashionista
Megacitier
Omni Gifter
10%
14%
9%
10%
10%
8%
11%
9%
4%
6%
8%
0%
6%
0%
5%
22%
6%
8%
7%
6%
4%
7%
16%
12%
7%
7%
9%
1%
10%
8%
9%
11%
13%
7%
9%
9%
3%
11%
21%
0%
3%
3%
9%
15%
10%
15%
3%
6%
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
Segment distribution by nationality
% of # of luxury
consumers
57
Top 3 Segments
primocapitolo.pptx 58Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Working well on a segment pays back
17%
10%
8%
+7pp
20162013Overall
2016
15%
12%
11%
+3pp
20162013Overall
2016
13%
4%
8%
+9pp
20162013Overall
2016
Absolute
Luxurer
Megacitier Social Wearer
Share of # of luxury consumers, %
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
5 brands with highest
penetration in the
segment
5 brands with highest
penetration in the
segment
5 brands with highest
penetration in the
segment
58
primocapitolo.pptx 59Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Example: a Brand successfully changing its consumers
mix towards more attractive behavioral segments
Absolute Luxurer
+6pp
Brand share
14%
Overall
8%
Avg. Spend 40k€
Growing1 +11% p.a.
Tends to be very loyal
Classpirational
Avg. Spend 3k€
Diminishing1 -15% p.a.
Less loyal to a brand
-5pp
Brand share
5%
Overall
10%
59
1. Segment Generated Market
Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries)
Example for an high-end
personal luxury brand
Segment with highest penetration vs. segment with lowest penetration
for a successful and growing brand
Segment Share of # of luxury consumers, %
The luxury brand here represented achieved a
+ 16 % revenue growth p.a. in the last 3 years
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 60Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition
Main Outcomes
In a moderate growth luxury market, True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and steadier pace
In a slower personal luxury market expected winners and losers both among Brands and among Categories
Discrepancy between perceived value and price puts at risk affection of ~50% of consumers
Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal for 2 / 3 of True-Luxury Consumers
Customization a growing request and purchase driver, especially in Apparel
Consumers buying more in their home country, especially Chinese
Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the real trend vs. online solo sales
Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales, not only for online effect
True-Luxury Consumers massively engaging on Social Media with their favorite Brands
Strong differences in Brands performances within winning Luxury Consumers BCG Behavioral segments
1
2
3
6
8
9
60
4
5
7
10
Thank you
bcg.com | bcgperspectives.com
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 62Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
Launch an ad hoc survey on True Luxury Consumer of the brand to bring
insight to the next level on key topics relevant for the business
• e.g. Categories, Geographical Markets, Consumer generations
• e.g. Digital, retail execution, megacities penetration,
• ....
Launch an ad hoc consumer study tailored on the specific target consumer
of a Brand to inform key business decisions
• e.g. Possible merge / demerge of two lines
• ...
Develop a tailored and proprietary consumer behavioral segmentation for
the brand, applying BCG behavioral segmentation to Brand CRM data
• To capture future organic growth and boost LFL retail sales
– Inform key decisions in merchandising, assortment, CRM, marketing,...
– Define and launch pilots
– Measure and scale up
The True Luxury Consumer: What BCG could do for
Luxury Companies leveraging the study
Brand Equity
to support
sales boost
Voice of
consumers to
inform key
decisions
Actionable
consumer
segmentation
1
2
3
62
BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 63Draft—for discussion only
Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
BCG Authors
Nicola
Pianon
Senior Partner
and Managing
Director
- Milan
Leading Fashion & Luxury Division
in Italy
26 years @ BCG
Expertise areas
• Business planning, strategy
definition and implementation in
Fashion and Luxury
• Retailing and retail development
• Go to market strategy definition for
luxury brands in Europe, US & Asia
• Deep expertise in Digital strategy
Contacts
Pianon.nicola@bcg.com
Tel. +39 02 65599 204
Mobile +39 335 237556
Federico
Bonelli
Principal
- Milan
Fashion & Luxury Division Core
Member
8 years of Strategy Consulting in F&L
Expertise areas
• Focus on luxury and premium
industry in all categories
• Assisted 40+ luxury groups
• Led large transformations, focusing
on distribution, retail, merch., ...
• Interim General Manager of Recarlo
in 2012
Contacts
Bonelli.federico@bcg.com
Tel. +39 02 65599 608
Mobile +39 335 8495649
63
Olivier
Abtan
Partner and
Managing
Director
- Paris
Global Lead of Fashion & Luxury
Division
17 years @ BCG
Expertise areas
• 20+ fashion & Luxury (vendor) due
diligences in the last 3 years alone
• Deep expertise in digital strategies
• Retail transformation and concept
definition across Europe and Africa
• Deep expertise in Merchandising,
Category Management and Product
Development
Contacts
Abtan.olivier@bcg.com
Tel. +33 1 4017 4381
Mobile +33 6 03 61 61 00
Thank you
bcg.com | bcgperspectives.com

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Bcg true luxury global cons insight 2017 - presentata

  • 1. The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition Milan, February 16th, 2017
  • 2. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 1Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight panel Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Consumer Insight 10 Nationalities ~36 k€ Avg. luxury spend 12 000+ Consumers Vs. 2016 Ed. 1 • +1 000 in China • +1 000 in US • +15 k€
  • 3. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 2Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. We push to be relevant on the highest segments of the luxury consumers Luxury yearly spend1 (k€ per consumer) > 100 k€ 50 - 100 k€ 20 - 50 k€ 10 - 20 k€ 5 - 10 k€ Average Spend for overall sample 3rd edition 1 % 6 % 28 % 35 % 30 % ~21 k€ 1. Expenditure includes personal luxury (e.g. handbags, shoes, sunglasses and other accessories, clothing) and experiential luxury (e.g. hotels, wine and spirits, exclusive vacations). Excluded cars, yachts, smartphones & tablets Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight True-Luxury Consumers sample distribution (% respondents) Clusters size evolution 4th vs 3rd Edition 7 % 18 % 30 % 25 % 20 % ~ 36 k€ 4th edition 7% 25% 2
  • 4. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 3Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. We set higher thresholds by category vs previous edition to identify a "True Luxury Consumer" >400 € / eachSmart watches Threshold Price >1 000 € / each >300 € / each >180 € / each >180 € / each2 >1 400 € / each >1 200 € / each >1 600 € / each >400 € / each >200 € / each >250 € / each >100 € / each >2 000 € / each >100 000 € / each >750 000 € / each >450 € / night >4 000 € / pers./ week >3 000 € / each >100 € / bottle >1 200 € / each >200 € / person Category Handbags Shoes Sunglasses Other accessories1 Outerwear / Coats Dresses for women Suits for men Sweaters / Knitwear Shirts / Topwear Jeans / Pants / Skirts Fragrances & Cosmetics Watches Cars Luxury Boats / Yachts Hotels (leisure) Cruise / resort Design furniture Wine & Spirits Jewelry Restaurants >1 000 € / eachLighting >1 000 € / eachSmartphones / Tablets 1. "Other accessories " includes scarves, wallets, belts and ties 2. > 180€/each for Small Leather Goods, >150 €/each for Silk Goods Source: BCG-Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight; BCG Minimum spent 5 k€ in the past year on personal luxury goods Threshold PriceCategoryvs. '16 vs. '16 Personal Luxury Goods Experiential Luxury Goods 3 Other Luxury Goods Threshold PriceCategory vs. '16
  • 5. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 4Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition Main Outcomes Steady market, True luxury consumers growing A rising perception of price-value misalignment More casual, more customized! True luxury consumers buying more at home Luxury goes omnichannel Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience #Luxurygoessocial Behavioral consumer segment evolution 4
  • 6. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 5Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Steady market, True-Luxury Consumers growing
  • 7. primocapitolo.pptx 6Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. The global luxury market worth ~860Bn€ in 2016, experiential growing faster than personal luxury 1. Personal goods include accessories, apparel, watches & jewelry, fragrances & cosmetics Source: BCG Luxury Market model Global luxury goods market (B€) 305 317 366 412 445 464 522 542 807207 233 257 280 285 291 322 318 380 2010 551511 2009 1 187 2023F 623 2011 860 2016 9.3% 5.6% 844 2015 755 2014 730 2013 692 2012 @ Retail value 09-13 6 Personal1 Experiential 13-16 16-23F CAGR 8.3% 9.9% 3.8% 2-3% 6.8% 5-6% 4-5%
  • 8. primocapitolo.pptx 7Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Out of ~400 Mn Luxury Consumers only 17Mn identified as "True-Luxury Consumers" Absolute Top Absolute Entry Absolute 4.5 1.3 11 6 2.0 14 Total True-Luxury 17 22 CLUSTER 2016 # (M) Bn(€) Bn(€)# (M) 2023 Top Aspirational 21 28 Other Aspirational 375 440 ~415 ~490Total Luxury Consumers +5 +72 +75 2 k€ 5 k€ 20 k€ 10 k€ Note: rounded numbers Source: BCG Luxury Market model 7 50 k€ Beyond money 0.4 0.5
  • 9. primocapitolo.pptx 8Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. A further polarizing pyramid ahead: True-Luxury Consumers up from ~29% to ~32% of global market 4.5 1.3 11 6 2.0 14 17 22 2016 # (M) Bn(€)1 Bn(€)1 2023 93 30 107 250 141 53 147 381 21 2861 92 375 549 715 +131 +196 ~415 ~860 ~1185 +325 Total Luxury Consumers # (M) ~490 440 1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts Note: rounded numbers Source: BCG Luxury Market model 8 CLUSTER 2 k€ 5 k€ 20 k€ 10 k€ 50 k€ 0.4 0.520 40 Absolute Top Absolute Entry Absolute Top Aspirational Other Aspirational Beyond money Total True-Luxury
  • 10. primocapitolo.pptx 9Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and steadier growth for the future Note: rounded numbers Source: BCG Luxury Market model 9 2 k€ 5 k€ 20 k€ 10 k€ 50 k€ Personal Experiential True Luxury CAGR 2016 - 2023 2-3% 5-6% 6-7% ~4% 7-8% 5-6% 4-5% 1-2%Aspirational 4-5% Total
  • 11. primocapitolo.pptx 10Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. In a slower personal luxury market, there will be clear winners and losers among Brands 2009 - 2013 2013 - 2016 Turnover growth for 20 leading personal luxury brands1 Strong Growth CAGR >10% Flat CAGR 0% to +4% Decreasing CAGR < 0% Growth CAGR 4% to 10% 2 1 3 14 8 1 6 5 2016 - 2023 # brands 1. Sample of 20 leading brands in personal luxury Source: Press Search; BCG Analysis 10 8.3% 3.8% Average Market Growth ... ~2-3%
  • 12. primocapitolo.pptx 11Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. In a slower personal luxury market, winners and losers expected also among categories 21% 33% 40% 10%15% -7% 0% -25% True Luxury Consumers net appetite by category1 (net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%) Shoes Fragrances & Cosmetics Watches & Jewelry Handbags Sunglasses Small leather goods Silk goods Clothing2 1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category (Positive – Negative). Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) 2. Including jeans / pants; shirts / topwear; dresses / suits; coats / outerwear; knitwear Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries) 11
  • 13. primocapitolo.pptx 12Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Appetite driven by Millennials with shoes and F&C key to recruit them - Handbags polarized Overall -25% -7% 0% 10% 15% 33% 40% 21% By generation 24% -22% -3% 3% 14% 23% 36% 43% -11% 0% 10% 10% 18% -27% 32% 43% -14% -16% -10% -16% 13% 22% 13% -33% 12 Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials Net appetite by category1 1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend on the category (Positive – Negative). Multiple options answer (up to 5 categories ) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries)
  • 14. primocapitolo.pptx 13Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Chinese and Americans will continue to drive the appetite for luxury consumption 11% 18% 13% -10% 5% 11% 20% 24% 41% 46% Overall 24% True Luxury Consumers net appetite by nationality1 (net appetite = people increasing spend in the future > +20% – people decreasing spend in the future > - 20%) 1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative) 2. Share of nationalities in terms of luxury market value Source: BCG Luxury Market model; BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries) 13
  • 15. primocapitolo.pptx 14Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. True-Luxury Consumers showing a good appetite for 2017 "Do you expect to spend more or less on luxury products in the next year?" Less (-20%) Same More (+20%) True Luxury Barometer®1 24pp 2017E 1. Index calculated as percentage of customers who see growth in spend less the percentage who foresee a decrease in spend (Positive – Negative). The index represents a proxy of the expected growth of spend in Luxury by Top Luxury consumers Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers respondents in 10 countries) 9pp -5pp 13pp 20152013 2014 17pp 2016 33% 43% 29% 48% 23% 24% 24% 39% 37% 21% 41% 38% 14 43% 17% 40% True Luxury Barometer®
  • 16. primocapitolo.pptx 15Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Only 17% of true luxury consumers declare they will spend less in 2017 • Luxury prices increase • Personal luxury saturation • Less special occasions to attend • Lower interest in luxury brands • Partial shift to premium / fast fashion brands • Brands selling too much non core categories • Economic instability • Travel less frequently • Lower confidence in future income • Fear of terroristic attacks Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) " What are the key reasons for which you have spent less?" External Luxury sector related 43% 57% 43% 17% 40% Less (-20%) Same More (+20%) "This year have you spent more or less on luxury products vs last year?" 15 Mainly low spender Millennials – mostly European
  • 17. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 16Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. A rising perception of price – value misalignment
  • 18. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 17Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Over the last years the price of luxury iconic items has increased by far more than inflation 155 118 100 2010 2012 2014 2016 3 x Luxury iconic bags price1 Global inflation 1. Average luxury products price increase calculated based on 2010-2016 list prices of a panel of iconic luxury handbags Source: Press search; World Bank; BCG analysis Index: 2010 = 100 17
  • 19. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 18Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. >50% of Luxury consumers perceive a price/value misalignment. Americans & Millennials most disappointed % of respondents Overall Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Do you feel a progressive separation between overall value of Luxury products and their price?" By nationality By generation 52 % 48 % 58 % 51 % 49 % 44 % 42 % 49 % 51 % 56 % 55 % 50 % 46 % 45 % 50 % 54 % Gen. X 18 Baby B. & Silver Millennials No Yes
  • 20. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 19Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 2 / 3 of misalignment perception driven by price, 1 / 3 by exclusivity loss and product quality issues Discrepancy 100 % Product value decrease 63 % 37 % Price increase 1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Thinking about your favorite luxury brand, you told that you noticed a discrepancy between the overall value and the price. What are the main reasons for this?" 19 Emerging Markets Mature Markets #1 #2 #3 Lower manufacture quality Lower material quality Iconic products' exclusivity loss % of respondents perceiving a price discrepancy Key reasons1 #1 #2 #3 Lack of innovation Iconic products' exclusivity loss Overall Brand's exclusivity loss Key reasons1
  • 21. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 20Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 8 out of 10 disappointed consumers plan to react : In ~50% of cases likely to translate in lost sales Reaction 83 % No reaction 17 % Perceived misalignment 100 % "In case of a progressive separation between the price and the perceived product value, what would you do? 20 17% 15% 13% 9% 25% 10% 10% Buy lower priced from same brand Trade down to premium brands Renounce to buy Go to brand’s outlets to find discounts Look for discounts offline (multibrand) Look for discounts online Buy other luxury brand Going off-price / lower priced itemsLost sales Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) % of respondents perceiving a price discrepancy 45% Lost sales
  • 22. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 21Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. As a result ~60 out of ~230 Brands surveyed losing traction, especially total look ones "Is there a brand on which you have the feeling that you have reduced / you will probably reduce your luxury spending?" Affected by spend decrease 26% Resilient 74% Total personal luxury brands 100% Note: Out of the total 12,000 respondents, 79% mentioned a luxury brand on which they reduced their spend. Total personal luxury brands include 230 brands spontaneously recalled by respondents. Brands affected by spending decrease include those mentioned by more than 50 respondents. Possible to mention only one brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 21 Lifestyle / total look Category specialists 19% 36% % of brands recalled by respondents Brands Affected by spend decrease
  • 23. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 22Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Trading down is an attitude also for beyond money Luxury consumers . Americans the most active Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?" Total 59% 41% No Yes 93% 43% 19% 7% 57% 81% 90% 10% 56%57% 63% 44%43% 37% 20-50 k€5-20 k€ > 50 k€ By luxury spend By nationality 22 % of respondents
  • 24. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 23Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Luxury Consumers trading down to premium brands almost 2x than to fast fashion ones Note: Multiple options answer. In calculating the % of respondents trading down to premium and fast fashion brands, respondents trading down to both premium and fast fashion brands were counted twice Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Do you have the feeling that you have partially shifted your spending from luxury brands to premium and / or fast fashion brands?" Premium Total 64% Fast fashion 36% No Yes 59% Total 41% 23 70% % of respondents trading down% of respondents 46%
  • 25. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 24Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. More Casual, more Customized!
  • 26. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 25Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal for 2 / 3rd of True-Luxury Consumers Decrease of formal in favor of casual 66 % No change perceived in formal 34 % Overall 100 % Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Has your attitude towards formal wear changed?" 25 % of respondents
  • 27. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 26Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Casualwear fuelled by wardrobe saturation for the eldest, higher appeal and acceptance for the youngest Note: multiple options answer (up to three reasons) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 55% 37% Formal wear now too expensive Follow casualization at the office More comfort with casual Casual suitable to more occasions Enough formal wear for formal occasions 48% 51% 29% "What are the key reasons driving the lower appeal for formal wear in your mind?" 26 % of respondents with lower appeal for formal wear Overall By generation 33% 50% 40% 55% 52% 48% 36% 28% 50% 54% 40% 28% 19% 49% 61% Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials
  • 28. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 27Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. The Luxurization of the Casualwear Source: BCG Luxury market model 27 Market @ Retail value (Bn€) Luxury sneakers 2009 9.3 Bn€ 3.0 2016 Sneakers Other shoes 16.0 Bn€ 0.9 8.4 13.0 Luxury down jackets Market @ Retail value (Bn€) 2009 9.6 Bn€ 2.0 2016 Down jackets Other outerwear 13.0 Bn€ 0.5 9.1 11.0
  • 29. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 28Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Growing demand for customization Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Is customization relevant for you when purchase luxury?" 18 % 2016 17 %16 % 20152014 13 % 2013 10 % 13 % 15 % 23 % 23 % 22 % 20 % 15 % 15 % 23 % 22% 28 % of respondents answering "Yes" Avg. 14% Avg.
  • 30. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 29Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Bespoke is the most desired feature; different customization priorities by product category Service Initials or writings Product configuration Made to measure Bespoke products "Which are the elements of customization that you value the most?" % of respondents considering each customization aspect relevant 1st category by relevance Note: multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 29 57% 53% 52% 50% 47% #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
  • 31. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 30Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Made-in Italy still leading, fuelled by Apparel, Bags and Shoes % of respondents that check Made-in1 3% 6% 6% 10% 12% 23% 29% "Which country of manufacturing do you consider the best for luxury products?" ... 11 4 5 0 -5 -2 0 Δ 2014-2016 (pp) Drivers of the increase (2014-2016) 2014 2016 21% 18% 2014 2016 15% 10% -3 pp -5 pp 2014 2016 20% 40% +20 pp 2014 2016 19% 32% +13 pp 2014 2016 16% 26% 2014 2016 35% 53% +10 pp +18 pp 2014 2016 16% 17% +1 pp 2014 2016 14% 20% +6 pp 2014 2016 11% 11% 2014 2016 8% 10% +0 pp +2 pp 2014 2016 8% 10% +2 pp 2014 2016 10% 17% +7 pp 1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 30
  • 32. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 31Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Made-in Italy recognized worldwide, while Made-in U.S. mainly appreciated by Americans 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% % of respondents Made-in preference (Italy vs. US) by consumer nationality Focus on Personal Luxury1 1. Excluding cars, luxury boats, design and lightening Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 31 Made-in Made-in
  • 33. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 32Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. True Luxury Consumers buying more at home
  • 34. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 33Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. True-Luxury Consumers are buying more in their home country 33 39% 65% 61% 35% Local Abroad 20162014 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 % of Chinese respondents 65% 77% 35% 23% Local Abroad 20162014 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 % of American respondents 1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in 2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) Of which 16% online Of which 20% online
  • 35. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 34Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 65% 41% 39%30% 2013 2014 2015 2016 Locally (Mainland China) Chinese increasingly back home to buy luxury 34 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?" % of Chinese buying locally1 1. Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan excluded Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) Daigou Effect High Price Gap Strong Yuan Government Initiatives (Duty Rates, Boarder Controls) Global Pricing Weak Yuan
  • 36. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 35Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. True Luxury Consumers are buying more in their home country 35 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 "Where did you buy your last luxury item?"1 Top destinations for luxury shopping2 Top destinations for luxury shopping2 Tokyo London Paris New York Milan London Tokyo Paris Dubai Milan % of American respondents 1. For Top 4 EU nationalities (French, German, Italian, British) local purchases from 48% in 2014 to 79% in 2016. For Japanese local purchases from 71% in 2014 to 82% in 2016 2. Includes both cities where respondents bought in the last 12 months and plan to buy in the next 12 months. Multiple options answer (all cities that apply) Note: Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau included in "Abroad" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) #1 #3 #2 #4 #5 % of Chinese respondents 2015 2016 #1 #3 #2 #4 #5 Paris Tokyo New York Milan Dubai 2015 2016 Paris London Milan Dubai Hong Kong
  • 37. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 36Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Luxury goes Omnichannel
  • 38. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 37Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Online solo 100% Total 7% Show rooming2 38% 8% Store solo ROPO1 47% Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the real trend vs. online solo sales 100 % of respondents on last purchase 100 "Where have you bought your last luxury item? Where have you researched it?" 1. Researched Online, Purchased Offline 2. Researched Offline, Purchased Online Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 37 53% 46% 2013 10% Show Rooming 2 100% Online solo Total 9% ROPO1Store solo 39% 42% 61% 51% 2016 Omnichannel Digitally Influenced Omnichannel Digitally Influenced
  • 39. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 38Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Digital influence growth fuelled by Americans 1. Considering the last luxury purchase Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) By nationality "Where have you bought the last item purchased? Where have you researched it?" 38 Digitally influenced purchases1 2016 (%) ( On line solo + Show rooming + ROPO) 61% Overall Trend 2013-2016 (Δ pp) 64% 72% 54% 8 pp 22 pp 6 pp 9 pp
  • 40. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 39Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Millennials the most digitally influenced % of respondents on last purchase Overall Baby B. & SilverGen. X By generation 1. Mainly personal items (~90%), among experiential includes wine & spirts, furniture, smartphones,.. Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 10% 9% 42% 39% 10% 6% 28% 56% 10% 7% 41% 42% 10% 12% 46% 32% "Where have you bought the last luxury item purchased? Where have you researched it?"1 Millennials Store solo ROPO Showrooming Online solo Digitally influenced purchases (%) 39 68% 58% 44%61%
  • 41. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 40Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 39% 61% 60% of online purchases are perceived to be additional to physical retail purchases "Do you have the feeling that your spending online is in addition to or cannibalizing your luxury spending in physical stores?" 1. Considering the online channel among the top 3 channels used over the last 12 months Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) By nationalityOverall Cannibalization 44% 38% 34% 23% 56% 62% 66% 77% 2016 online purchases 19% 15%21% 22% 40 17% In addition to physical % of respondents1
  • 42. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 41Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Full price multibrand eShops key for Millennials : Brands' websites and Marketplaces for the eldest % of respondents Overall Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Which kind of online store did you buy the product from?" Baby B. & SilverGen. XMillennials By generation 5% 15% 46% 34% Brand owned online stores Full price multi-brand online stores (e.g. Net à Porter, Dept. Store e-commerce) Discount specialized online stores (e.g. Yoox) 14% 15% 20% 49% 46% 36% 33% 7%6% 37% 4% 33% 41 Online marketplace (e.g. Amazon, TMall, JD.com)
  • 43. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 42Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Demand for an omnichannel experience is growing fast , driven by Chinese and Americans % of respondents Overall 1. Multiple options answer (ranking of three reasons) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "How important is it for you that a brand can be reached through different channels?" By nationality (2016) 46% 39% 15% 37% 38% 25%Not important Somehow important Not negotiable / very important 2014 2016 54% 51% 40% 39% 38% 36% 41% 38% 8% 13% 19% 23% 42 % of respondents considering omni- channel not negotiable/very important "What you would expect when interacting with your preferred luxury brand through multiple channels?"1 Consistent Brand Image 54% Same Rewards39% Integrated Delivery and Service Level 49% Customer relationship Management 38%
  • 44. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 43Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. -50% 0% 50% 100% How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the omnichannel expectations? (I) 43 1. Only personal luxury goods, Included only brands with statistical significant observations in total satisfaction Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016) Omnichannel Satisfaction Index = (People mentioning as the best brand – people mentioning as the worse brand) ~100 brands included in the analysis1
  • 45. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 44Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. How effectively are Luxury Brands responding to the omnichannel expectations? (II) 44 1. Only personal luxury, Included only brands with statistical significant observations 2.# respondents who selected the brand as best brand – # respondents who selected the brand as worst brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) Consistent brand image Integrated delivery and service level Same Rewards across channels Customer relationship management Brands' satisfaction distribution (2016) Satisfaction Index2 Omnichannel needs ~100 brands included in the analysis1
  • 46. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 45Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Monobrand at the heart of an omnichannel experience
  • 47. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 46Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales; Japan and China more resilient % of respondents Overall "Have you bought your last luxury item from a monobrand store?" By nationality (2016) Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 2014 35% 2016 27% 6% 32% 26% 12% 26% 9% 11% 6% 21% 12%15% 20%20% 30% 3% 29% 7% 19% 27% 36% 11% 46 At homeAbroad Trend '14-'16
  • 48. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 47Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Too many stores opened in the past vs. market growth 1. # stores Source: BCG Analysis, "Luxury Goods Store Wars 2016" - Bernstein 47 ... 201620152014 3x 5.0% 0-1% 2x 1.9% 1.6% 0.0% 4.0% Market Growth Retail Footprint Growth (Store #) Global retail footprint1 growth vs. Personal Luxury Market growth (2014-2016) @ Constant Exchange Rate
  • 49. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 48Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Shopping experience and product assortment the main reasons for monobrand disaffection % of respondents "Do you have the feeling that you will purchase more or less frequently in monobrand stores?" Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) 21% 52% 27% 48 Less frequently More frequently Same frequency 16%17% 32%33% ProximityLack of product assortment newness Monotonous shopping experience Price "Which are the reasons for which you are purchasing less frequently in mono-brand physical stores?" 1
  • 50. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 49Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. But monobrand still at the heart of an omnichannel True-Luxury consumer experience around the Brand Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) % of respondents on last purchase 49% 15% 7% 27% Monobrand Solo Researched in Monobrand Purchased Online Researched in Monobrand Purchased in other physical channel Monobrand Influence Reasons to buy in Monobrand Try & touch the product Product customization Offer range of the brand Experienced / trustable sales staff Presence of signature / exclusive items Monobrand influence #1 #3 #2 #4 #5 49 22% Monobrand influencing 22% of purchases done in other channels
  • 51. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2017 Edition_Draft PPT_v44(Storyline).pptx 50Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. #luxurygoessocial
  • 52. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 51Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Word of Mouth the 1st influence lever on True Luxury Consumers, thanks to digital /social media % of respondents Seen Worn 12% Celebrities 16% Events 17% TV & Movies 23% Store windows 26% Brand websites3 33% Magazines2 39% WoM1 57%19% 38% 13% Seen Worn Celebrities 20% Events 20% TV & Movies 24% Brand websites3 34% Store windows 39% WoM1 43%32% 11% Magazines 2 50% Note: Multiple options answer (ranking of five levers) 1 Includes physical Word Of Mouth, Social Media and Other online blogs 2. Editorials and Commercial in Magazines. Includes both traditional & digital magazines 3. Includes also Brand's App Source: BCG 2014 ad hoc study (10'000 respondents in 10 countries) 51 "Which of these levers has an impact on how you develop opinions or purchase decisions?" 2013 2016 Physical Social Media & Online Blogs
  • 53. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 52Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 72% of true luxury consumers use Social Media to interact with their favourite luxury brands 1. At least one Social Media used more than once per day Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "Do you use Social Media to interact with luxury brands?" % of respondents Overall Baby B. & SilverGen. X By generation Millennials By nationality 57% 15% 28% 64% 56% 29% 16% 24% 23% 28% 47% 13% 70% 62% 51% 32% 12% 16% 15% 17% 18% 34% 51% 22% 52 No Yes, occasionally Yes, frequently1 72%
  • 54. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 53Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Facebook, YouTube, Instagram the hottest Platforms Instant messaging with very high frequency 1. Tencent QQ 2. Sina Weibo Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 respondents in 10 countries) "How frequently and which Social Media do you use to interact with luxury brands or social media peers to share opinions?" 53 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% Users (% of respondents) Frequency of usage Facebook ≥1 time per day ≤1 time per week 1) 2) Focus on Content Focus on Interaction/Service
  • 55. primocapitolo.pptx 54Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Behavioral Consumer Segments Evolution
  • 56. primocapitolo.pptx 55Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Where does behavioral segmentation apply? 2 k€ 5 k€ 20 k€ 10 k€ 1. Including Experiential and Personal luxury, excluding cars and Yachts Note: rounded numbers Source: BCG Luxury Market model 55 50 k€ Top Aspirational Other Aspirational True-Luxury Consumers Occasional Luxury Consumers Behavioral Segmentation
  • 57. primocapitolo.pptx 56Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. 14 5 6 13 16 22 -4 312 -3-1-1-1 255 Absolute Luxurer, Megacitier and Social Wearer have driven market growth over the last years Contribution to luxury market growth by segment (2013-2016) Abs. Luxurer Megacitier Social Wearer #LITTLE PRINCE Experiencer Rich Upstarter Status Seaker Timeless Proper Luxe Immune Fashionista Omni Gifter Class- pirational 56 of total growth Total P & E Market generated by True Luxury & Top Aspirational consumers – Bn€ Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries) Absolute Luxurer growing by spend increase, Megacitier and Social Wearer growing by luxury consumer number 83 54 23 21 38 9 17 20 5 20 16 6 Segment Value Size, Bn€ 2013 2016 ~90%
  • 58. primocapitolo.pptx 57Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Each geography has its own segment mix Overall Classpirational Experiencer Timeless Proper 8% 8% 9% 10% 9% 11% 5% 11% 8% 8% 9% 6% Status Seeker Social Wearer Absolute Luxurer Rich Upstarter #LITTLEPRINCE Luxe Immune Fashionista Megacitier Omni Gifter 10% 14% 9% 10% 10% 8% 11% 9% 4% 6% 8% 0% 6% 0% 5% 22% 6% 8% 7% 6% 4% 7% 16% 12% 7% 7% 9% 1% 10% 8% 9% 11% 13% 7% 9% 9% 3% 11% 21% 0% 3% 3% 9% 15% 10% 15% 3% 6% Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries) Segment distribution by nationality % of # of luxury consumers 57 Top 3 Segments
  • 59. primocapitolo.pptx 58Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Working well on a segment pays back 17% 10% 8% +7pp 20162013Overall 2016 15% 12% 11% +3pp 20162013Overall 2016 13% 4% 8% +9pp 20162013Overall 2016 Absolute Luxurer Megacitier Social Wearer Share of # of luxury consumers, % Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries) 5 brands with highest penetration in the segment 5 brands with highest penetration in the segment 5 brands with highest penetration in the segment 58
  • 60. primocapitolo.pptx 59Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Example: a Brand successfully changing its consumers mix towards more attractive behavioral segments Absolute Luxurer +6pp Brand share 14% Overall 8% Avg. Spend 40k€ Growing1 +11% p.a. Tends to be very loyal Classpirational Avg. Spend 3k€ Diminishing1 -15% p.a. Less loyal to a brand -5pp Brand share 5% Overall 10% 59 1. Segment Generated Market Source: BCG 2016 ad hoc study (12,000 luxury consumers in 10 countries) Example for an high-end personal luxury brand Segment with highest penetration vs. segment with lowest penetration for a successful and growing brand Segment Share of # of luxury consumers, % The luxury brand here represented achieved a + 16 % revenue growth p.a. in the last 3 years
  • 61. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 60Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. The True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 4th Edition Main Outcomes In a moderate growth luxury market, True-Luxury Consumers maintaining a healthier and steadier pace In a slower personal luxury market expected winners and losers both among Brands and among Categories Discrepancy between perceived value and price puts at risk affection of ~50% of consumers Casualwear with increasing appeal vs. formal for 2 / 3 of True-Luxury Consumers Customization a growing request and purchase driver, especially in Apparel Consumers buying more in their home country, especially Chinese Store solo sales decreasing but omnichannel the real trend vs. online solo sales Monobrand stores losing traffic and sales, not only for online effect True-Luxury Consumers massively engaging on Social Media with their favorite Brands Strong differences in Brands performances within winning Luxury Consumers BCG Behavioral segments 1 2 3 6 8 9 60 4 5 7 10
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  • 63. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 62Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. Launch an ad hoc survey on True Luxury Consumer of the brand to bring insight to the next level on key topics relevant for the business • e.g. Categories, Geographical Markets, Consumer generations • e.g. Digital, retail execution, megacities penetration, • .... Launch an ad hoc consumer study tailored on the specific target consumer of a Brand to inform key business decisions • e.g. Possible merge / demerge of two lines • ... Develop a tailored and proprietary consumer behavioral segmentation for the brand, applying BCG behavioral segmentation to Brand CRM data • To capture future organic growth and boost LFL retail sales – Inform key decisions in merchandising, assortment, CRM, marketing,... – Define and launch pilots – Measure and scale up The True Luxury Consumer: What BCG could do for Luxury Companies leveraging the study Brand Equity to support sales boost Voice of consumers to inform key decisions Actionable consumer segmentation 1 2 3 62
  • 64. BCG Altagamma True-Luxury Global Cons Insight 2017 Ed v69 14feb17 Final No BUP.pptx 63Draft—for discussion only Copyright©2016byTheBostonConsultingGroup,Inc.Allrightsreserved. BCG Authors Nicola Pianon Senior Partner and Managing Director - Milan Leading Fashion & Luxury Division in Italy 26 years @ BCG Expertise areas • Business planning, strategy definition and implementation in Fashion and Luxury • Retailing and retail development • Go to market strategy definition for luxury brands in Europe, US & Asia • Deep expertise in Digital strategy Contacts Pianon.nicola@bcg.com Tel. +39 02 65599 204 Mobile +39 335 237556 Federico Bonelli Principal - Milan Fashion & Luxury Division Core Member 8 years of Strategy Consulting in F&L Expertise areas • Focus on luxury and premium industry in all categories • Assisted 40+ luxury groups • Led large transformations, focusing on distribution, retail, merch., ... • Interim General Manager of Recarlo in 2012 Contacts Bonelli.federico@bcg.com Tel. +39 02 65599 608 Mobile +39 335 8495649 63 Olivier Abtan Partner and Managing Director - Paris Global Lead of Fashion & Luxury Division 17 years @ BCG Expertise areas • 20+ fashion & Luxury (vendor) due diligences in the last 3 years alone • Deep expertise in digital strategies • Retail transformation and concept definition across Europe and Africa • Deep expertise in Merchandising, Category Management and Product Development Contacts Abtan.olivier@bcg.com Tel. +33 1 4017 4381 Mobile +33 6 03 61 61 00
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