In October 2008 I visited Samangan's Takht-i Rostam, in northern Afghanistan, on my way from Mazar-i Sharif to Kabul with Qais, a Pansheri driver kindly provided by People in Need (a Czech NGO that has been already for a long time in Afghanistan, providing exellent help to people - many thanks to them!). This area includes a great stupa, hidden in the mountain - only the top slightly popping up - and a vast net of monastic cells in a nearby, lower hill. The Buddhist archeological area is relatively well preserved, also due to the fact that locals thought the meditation cells in a row to be an ancient bazar - which made them utterly uninteresting and spared them from any possible outburst of religius zeal...