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1. The Effect of a Hydrolyzed Collagen Nutraceutical
on the Cosmetic Appearance of Skin:
Results of a 12 week Clinical Study
by
Heidi Gilchrist, MD
Gilchrist Aesthetic and Medical Dermatology, Encinitas, CA
&
Sarah Ehrlich
Ashieda, LLC, Beverly Hills, CA
Introduction
Collagen is the protein that composes 70-80% of the
dry weight of human skin. The body is capable of
making at least 28 different types of collagen. The
two types mainly relevant to skin health and appear-
ance are collagen type I and collagen type III. These
are the two types that make up most of the collagen
in the second layer of skin, which is known as the
dermis.
At birth, 75% of the collagen in the dermis is type
III and only 25% is type I. Type III collagen is found
in growing children. In adults, those percentages are
reversed and there is mainly type I collagen in the
dermis. The exception is in a healing skin wound,
which reverts back to making type III until a scar has
completely formed.1
Collagen is a structural protein. Fibers of collagen
support the shape of the skin. Collagen formation
and breakdown takes place in the dermis, the thick-
er, firm layer of skin that lies beneath the paper-thin
outer layer, or epidermis, like a mattress lies beneath
a sheet. In youthful skin, collagen is firm, taut, and
abundant, like a new mattress. Just as a foam mattress
over time becomes flatter in places and creased as its
structure breaks down, aging skin begins to sag and
wrinkle when the collagen is diminished and frag-
mented. As skin ages, reactive oxygen species (which
are associated with ultraviolet radiation, environmen-
tal pollution, poor diet, and just normal aging) lead
to increased production of the enzyme collagenase,
which breaks down collagen. Then fibroblasts, the
cells that make collagen, lose their normal stretched
state. The fibroblasts collapse, and then more break-
down enzymes are produced. People in their 80’s
have four times more broken collagen than people in
their 20’s.2 In the elderly, in whom the dermis has lost
two-thirds or more of its youthful thickness through
collagen loss, skin tears and bruises easily.
In recent years, there has been increased scientific
interest2,3,4
in what can be done to slow the break-
down of collagen and build new collagen, even as the
skin ages chronologically. Nutraceuticals are prod-
ucts, often dietary supplements, which have been
demonstrated to have noticeable physiologic effects
or prevent chronic disease. Other studies5,6,7
have
shown that ingestion of hydrolyzed collagen protein

2. supplements can affect moisture content of the skin
(hydration), fine lines, and smoothness by stimulating
collagen production “from the inside out.”
Whole collagen proteins are not easily absorbed in
the gastrointestinal tract. In order to be useful (bio-
available) to the body, the collagen has to be hydro-
lyzed, or broken down into smaller strings of amino
acids that can be digested by enzymes and incorpo-
rated into the body.8
The resulting fragments of col-
lagen protein, called peptides, are easily absorbed and
almost completely absorbed.9
Once in the skin, these collagen peptides may trigger
the body to make more of its own natural collagen
by activating cells called fibroblasts.10
The peptides
also cause the existing collagen to become more or-
ganized, making it stronger and more resilient at the
molecular level11,12
which may mean increased skin
smoothness and suppleness clinically. Finally, colla-
gen is a hygroscopic molecule, which tends to attract
and hold moisture, leading to increased skin hydra-
tion clinically.13
The available research suggests that there is a strong
role for oral supplementation with hydrolyzed colla-
gen in an approach to anti-aging using nutraceuticals.
Methods
Ten otherwise healthy female volunteers aged 29-
60 years, mean age 42 years, consumed a drink
(Beauty Nectar™, Ashieda®, Beverly Hills, Cali-
fornia) containing 3023 mg of hydrolyzed bovine
collagen combined with proprietary amounts of
antioxidants (including vitamin C, resveratrol, kiwi
seed extract, and grape seed extract) and a food
grade ceramide (Oryza Ceramide®-PT, Oryza Oil
& Fat Chemical Co, Ltd, Tokyo, Japan). Subjects
consumed one 50 ml serving three times daily and
were followed over 12 weeks. Clinical photographs
were taken at baseline, 6 weeks, and 12 weeks with
a dermatoscope (ProScope Mobile™, Bodelin
Technologies, Lake Oswego, Oregon). Subjects
were asked to rate eleven specific criteria (Table 1)
about their skin on a scale of 1 to 10 at baseline
and 6-week and 12-week intervals. The same crite-
ria were also subjectively recorded by a board-cer-
tified dermatologist at the same intervals.
Subjective Criteria
Brightness
Deep lines
Elasticity
Fine lines
Firmness
Nourished
Plumpness
Pore size
Skin hydration
Skin smoothness
Suppleness
Collagen Cell

3. Results
Figure 1. Average percent improvement from baseline at 6 weeks and 12 weeks of the subjective criteria as
evaluated by the subject and a dermatologist.
Figure 2. Average improvement on self-assessment (subjective rating 1 to 10) from baseline to 12 weeks of
select criteria.

4. Figure 3. Before and 12 weeks after consuming Beauty Nectar™ 3 times daily for 12 weeks. Dermatoscopic
photographs of the skin of glabella of subject # 1.
Discussion
Anti-aging medicine can include dietary supplemen-
tation, lifestyle changes, herbal products, hormonal
therapies, caloric restriction, and other modalities.
Over the last thirty years, there has been increased
scientific interest in the effects on skin of ingestion
of hydrolyzed collagen peptides. The peptides trig-
ger increased collagen production in the skin, thicker
collagen fibrils, and stronger organization of the col-
lagen.
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a cofactor in several
enzymatic reactions in the body, including collagen
synthesis. It also serves as an antioxidant to protect
the body by neutralizing free radicals produced by
exposure to ultraviolet radiation, environmental pol-
lutants, and consumption of some processed foods.
Vitamin C has been shown to decrease sunburn cell
formation, thymine dimer formation and p53 pro-
tein expression (both of which signify DNA dam-
age), and expression of matrix metalloproteinase-9
(an enzyme that breaks down collagen).14
Resveratrol is an antioxidant and nutritional supple-
ment. Found in the skin of red grapes as well as in
other fruit, resveratrol has been shown to be anti-in-
flammatory15
and to have anti-cancer activity.16
Grape seed extract contains polyphenols, vitamin
E, and linoleic acid. Polyphenols include flavonoids,
which are potent antioxidants found in red wine. Vi-
tamin E is an antioxidant, and linoleic acid is an ome-
ga-3 fatty acid essential to the body.
Kiwi seed extract contains alpha-linolenic acid, an
omega-6 fatty acid, which is essential to the body.
Ceramides are lipid-based compounds normally
found in human skin and decreased in dry skin with
eczema. Ceramides may help to repair the skin and
replenish the skin barrier.17
Beauty Nectar™ is a hydrolyzed collagen supplement
that also contains vitamin C, resveratrol, grape seed
extract, kiwi seed extract, and ceramides. Our clinical
study found subjective increases in skin hydration,
firmness, smoothness, and suppleness, and decreases
in the appearance of fine lines and pores. Subjects
also reported that their skin looked more nourished,
plump, and bright with improved skin tone. Beauty
Nectar™ is a nutraceutical with a potent role in an
anti-aging regimen.
before after

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Conflict of Interest. Dr. Heidi Gilchrist is a consultant for Ashieda, LLC.