7. WElCOmE!
Congratulations on choosing to explore the unique Caribbean
islands of Trinidad and Tobago, and thank you for allowing us
to guide you on your journey. It might take a lifetime to truly
experience all that the islands have to offer, but we can at
least show you where to start!
abouT T&T house are all locally based, uses significantly less energy and
These two Caribbean islands so that our success ultimately paper during production.
have retained their individual benefits the local community.
characters, undiluted by large- We are also mindful of our explore…
scale tourism. In both Trinidad carbon footprint. Starting with The introductory section of this
and Tobago, distinct as they are, our 2009 edition, we’ve focused book gives you an overview of the
you will find a spectacular natural our print publication on the history and lifestyle of both islands
environment and a creative and most important information you together as a nation, before
self-reliant people, brimming with need on the go, while publishing helping you to discover what
humour and candour. additional information on our makes each island special.
Tobago is perfect for an idyllic website – and saving 2.2 million So whether you are from a
beach getaway, an escape into pages of paper over the last two neighbouring town or a distant
nature, or heart-pounding eco years. We have also adopted the country, we welcome you. There is
adventures on land or at sea. latest printing technology, which so much to discover!
Trinidad, meanwhile, is the
economic powerhouse (based on
oil and gas), with a unique culture
that spawns dynamic creative
STaNdardS & FEEdbaCk
industries and world-renowned • The country’s tourism authorities run an annual inspection
festivals like Carnival. programme called the Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry
Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval.
abouT Discover Current information can be found at www.gotrinidadandtobago.
This is the 21st edition of com. Advertising in Discover is open to anybody, but that does
Discover, the trusted guide to T&T, not imply editorial endorsement or participation in the TTTIC
produced by people who know programme; use of advertisers’ services is at your own discretion
this country and care about and risk.
getting it right. • Every effort has been made to ensure that information is
By trusting Discover, you can correct at press time. But things change swiftly, so we can make
be sure that you are investing no guarantees about its continued accuracy. If you have any
in the islands: our contributors, suggestions or queries, we would be delighted to hear from you.
production team and printing
Above A magnificent owl butterfly distracts predators by mimicking the head of a lizard (Brian Kinzie)
5
8.
9. TravEllErS’ TipS
International
travel
air: scheduled flights are
operated by Aeropostal, American
Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean
Airlines, Condor, Continental, Copa,
Delta, LIAT, Monarch, Suriname
Airways, and Virgin Atlantic. Others
offer charter flights
sea: the peak cruise ship
season is November–April, with
visits from Fred Olsen, Holland
America, Ocean Village, Princess,
Saga Travel, Seabourn, and
Windstar lines
enTry requireMenTs:
you need a passport valid for
three months beyond intended
stay. Non-residents require
documentation of return or
sea: daily inter-island
service between Port of Spain
Ground transport
onward travel and a valid local and Scarborough operated The Public Transportation Service
address. Visas are generally not by Port Authority of Trinidad & Corporation (PTSC: www.ptsc.
required for visits up to 30 days. Tobago (www.patnt.com), and co.tt) operates scheduled bus
For yacht arrivals, clearance water taxi service between services (TT$2–12) alongside
certificate from last port of Port of Spain and San privately operated, unscheduled
call and vessel’s registration Fernando operated by National maxi and route taxis (TT$2–15).
certificate (or authorisation for Infrastructure Development Legal, registered taxis have licence
use) required Company (www.trinywatertaxi. plates beginning with H and are
com): unmetered; confirm fare in advance
Domestic air & • Warrior Spirit (5.5hrs): airporT Transfers:
sea bridges TT$160 (cabin), TT$75 return
(economy), children 3-11
authorised taxis operate outside
arrivals halls at Piarco and Crown
years half price Point airports; check approved
air: daily flights between • T&T Express and T&T Spirit rates (on display at the taxi
Trinidad and Tobago (20 mins, (2.5hrs): TT$100 return, stands)
TT$300 round trip) on Caribbean children 3-11 years half price
Airlines (625-7200, www. • Water Taxi (45mins): TT$15 buses: operate from hubs
caribbean-airlines.com) one way in Port of Spain, Chaguanas,
Above A Caribbean Airlines Dash-8 comes in for a sunset landing at Crown Point, Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh)
7
10. Edison Boodoosingh
and King’s Wharf, San Fernando Chacon Street Maxi-Taxis: 12–25
(Trinidad); and Sangster’s Hill, • Curepe-Sangre Grande: lower Henry seat minibuses, similar set
Scarborough (Tobago) Street routes, departing downtown
• Diego Martin/Petit Valley: Port of Spain from City Gate;
car renTal: local and Abercromby Street San Fernando from “the Stand”
international companies operate • Maraval: Duke and Charlotte on Chancery Lane; and lower
nationwide: Streets Scarborough opposite the port.
• Budget: 669-1635, • San Fernando: Broadway and Bright colour bands indicate
www.budget.com South Quay service areas:
• Frankie’s (Tobago): 631-0369, • San Juan: lower Charlotte Street • Black (San Fernando–Princes
www.frankietours-tobago.com • St Ann’s/St James: Hart Street Town): connections to Mayaro
• Kalloo’s (Trinidad): 622-9073, • Wrightson Road/Long Circular Road: • Blue (throughout Tobago)
www.kalloos.com lower Chacon Street • Brown (San Fernando–La
• Sherman’s (Tobago): 639-2292, • Chaguaramas: Park and St Vincent Romaine–Siparia–Point Fortin)
www.shermansrental.com Streets • Green (Port of Spain–Curepe–
• Thrifty (Tobago): 639-8507, In Chaguanas (Trinidad): Chaguanas–San Fernando):
www.thrifty.com • Couva (and nearby towns): higher runs from City Gate; lower end
Southern Main Road of Southern Main Road (for
rouTe Taxis: stop to pick • Curepe: Chaguanas Main Road San Fernando) and Eleanor
up or put down as necessary, • Port of Spain: lower Southern Street (for Port of Spain) in
servicing specific routes from Main Road Chaguanas
designated taxi stands: In San Fernando (Trinidad): • Red (Port of Spain–Arima):
In Port of Spain (Trinidad): • All areas: “The Stand”, car park connections to Blanchisseuse,
• Cascade: Charlotte and Prince parallel Chancery Lane and Matelot via Sangre Grande
Streets In Scarborough (Tobago): • Yellow (Port of Spain–Diego
• Chaguanas: South Quay, opposite • Carrington Street Martin–Chaguaramas)
8 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
11. privaTe Taxis: listings
available in the Yellow Pages
Emergency Numbers
• Ambulance (public hospitals): 811
Tour operaTors: see • Crime Stoppers: 800-TIPS,
advertiser directory www.crimestopperstt.com
• EMS (emergency medical services): 624-4343 (north Trinidad),
general inforMaTion 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago)
• Division of Tourism • Fire: 990
(Tobago House of Assembly, • Hyperbaric Medical Facility: 660-4369 (Roxborough, Tobago)
Scarborough): 639-2125, www. • Office of Disaster Preparedness: 640-1285 (Trinidad),
visittobago.gov.tt 660-7489 (Tobago)
• Immigration Division: 625- • Police: 999 (Trinidad); 639-2520/5590 (Tobago)
3571 (Trinidad), 639-2681
(Tobago), www.immigration.
gov.tt
• Ministry of Tourism (Port Ship Complex, Tobago); 669- • Kidnapping hotline: 623-6793
of Spain): 624-1403, www. 5196 (Piarco Airport) • Lifeline (suicide prevention):
tourism.gov.tt • ttconnnect (Trinidad & Tobago 645-2800, 645-6616
• Tobago House of Assembly government online): www.gov.tt • National AIDS hotline: 800-
(Scarborough): 639-3421, 4448, www.aidsline.tt
www.tha.gov.tt Help neTworks • National Family Services:
• Tourism Development • Childline: 800-4321, www. 624-8218 (Trinidad), 639-
Company (Barataria, Trinidad): ttcadv.net 1512 (Tobago)
675-7034, www.tdc.co.tt, www. • Domestic violence hotline: • Rape Crisis Society: 622-
gotrinidadandtobago.com 800-SAVE 7273 (Port of Spain), 657-
• Tourist Information offices: • Families in Action 5355 (San Fernando)
639-0509 (Crown Point hotline: 628-2333, www. • Rebirth House (substance
Airport); 635-0934 (Cruise familiesinaction.net abuse): 623-0952
9
12. prECauTiONS
Like much of the world, the islands are affected by crime,
particularly Trinidad.
Always: drive with extreme care and practise defensive driving;
leave valuables (jewellery, money, passports, credit cards, etc) at
home or well concealed; walk in company; lock your vehicle;
lock your room/house door; keep windows closed at night or if
you are going out; be aware of your surroundings; raise an alarm
and head to the nearest police station if you suspect you are
being followed
Never: venture into deserted or unfamiliar areas alone; wear
extravagant jewellery; leave handbags or wallets lying around;
use an ABM if you sense someone suspicious nearby (if your
card gets stuck, call the bank immediately); leave laptop
computers or other valuables in your car; leave car windows
down when stopping, especially at night; engage in any
altercations with strangers
SuSTaiNablE TravEl
Both climate change and globalisation can hit developing island
nations particularly hard. Here’s what you can do to safeguard the
islands’ natural and cultural treasures:
Buy local: buy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised
retailers (not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food and
souvenirs (not any made from endangered species)
Fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon dioxide
emissions from your flight
Mind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs when
renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; don’t let your
car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool; and when you can,
walk or cycle
Recycle: Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, and SWMCOL process plastic,
glass, aluminium, paper, cardboard and electronics (e-waste); some
sponsor receptacles around the islands. The International School of
Port of Spain also runs a recycling programme
Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid
plastic bags and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need;
reuse when you can
Right Palm Tanager (Atiba Williams)
10 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
13. Trinidad & Tobago:
ThE FaCTS
The islands
airporTs: Crown Point International Airport,
Tobago (10km/7 miles from Scarborough); Piarco
International Airport, Trinidad (27km/17 miles from
Port of Spain)
capiTal: national capital, Port of Spain
(population 45,000; 270,000 metropolitan); Tobago
capital, Scarborough (pop 17,000)
cliMaTe: tropical. Dry season January–May, wet
June–December (islands just south of hurricane belt).
Temperature range 72–95°F (22–35°C); average 83°F
(29°C), with 60–75% humidity
HigHesT poinT: Trinidad’s El Cerro del
Aripo (940m/3,085ft); Tobago’s Main Ridge
(549m/1,860ft)
locaTion: 11°N, 61°W. Trinidad & Tobago
33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from
Venezuelan coast at the nearest point
size: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or 48x16km
(30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles) or
105x80km (65x50 miles)
TiMe zone: GMT -4, EST +1
11
14.
15. Media & communications waTer: tap water safe to drink (boil to be
safer); bottled water widely available
counTry pHone coDe: +868
Mail: TTPost national mail service; plus FedEx, Public wi-fi
DHL, UPS and others
• Piarco Airport
lanDline TelepHone: • Rituals coffee shops (nationwide)
Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago • Sweet Lime Restaurant
(TSTT) and FLOW (Columbus Communications).
Prepaid international phone cards available
Society
Mobile TelepHone: bmobile (TSTT) and
Digicel operate on GSM networks; prepaid SIM governMenT: parliamentary democracy;
cards available for unlocked phones ruling party People’s National Movement under
Prime Minister Patrick Manning; President George
press: 3 daily national newspapers (Express, Maxwell Richards; United National Congress
Guardian, Newsday), 7 weeklies (including Tobago Alliance main opposition
News), 1 tri-weekly
language: English (official)
raDio: 37 FM stations; two AM stations. For
all-local fare, try Radio Trinbago 94.7FM populaTion: 1.3 million: 40% of Indian
descent, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed. 50,000
Television: 12 local stations, five free-to-air (primarily African descent) in Tobago
(NCC-4, CCN TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and C-TV), seven
available only via cable (ACTS, IBN, ieTV, Parliament religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other
Channel, Synergy, Tobago Channel 5, Win-TV); some Christian 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8%
only available on one island
Practicalities
currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$);
US$1=TT$6.3
Driving: on the left. Trinidad speed limits
80kph (50mph) highways and 55kph (34mph)
settled areas; 50kph (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts
required. Visitors can drive up to 90 days on valid
foreign/international licences
elecTriciTy: 115v/230v, 60Hz
Money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/debit cards in
general use
Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at
hotels; departure tax TT$100; VAT 15% on goods
and services
(Photo by Martin Farinha)
13
16. Identity we stand, islands of the blue
Caribbean Sea. This, our native
Heroes
land, we pledge our lives to
coaT of arMs: features thee. Here every creed and race sTepHen aMes: world
national birds scarlet ibis finds an equal place, and may top 25 golfer with three major
(Trinidad), cocrico (Tobago) God bless our Nation.” (Patrick PGA titles, including historic
and hummingbird; three ships Castagne, 1962) victory over all-star field with
of Columbus and Trinity Hills’ Tiger Woods at the Players
“three sisters” peaks; fruited naTional flag: strips Championship (2006)
coconut palm native to Tobago; of red (fire, vitality of the sun);
and national motto: “together we white (water, purity and power of aTo bolDon: four-time
aspire, together we achieve” the ocean); and black (earth, one Olympic medallist (2 silver, 2
people united on islands’ soil) bronze for 100m and 200m,
naTional anTHeM: 1996 and 2000), and 200m
“Forged from the love of liberty in naTional flower: World Championship gold
the fires of hope and prayer, with chaconia (“wild poinsettia” or medallist (1997). Current
boundless faith in our destiny we “pride of Trinidad & Tobago”), a broadcaster for NBC in the USA
solemnly declare: side by side flaming red forest flower
george bovell iii:
nation’s first Olympic medallist
in swimming, winning Olympic
bronze in the 200m individual
medley (2004)
Janelle penny
coMMissiong: Miss
Universe 1977
Hasely crawforD:
nation’s first Olympic gold
medallist, winning the men’s
100m dash (1976)
Talk dE Talk
Bacchanal: scandalous, social
commotion, a rowdy event
Fête: party (both noun and
verb)
Lime: hang out with friends
Maco: to be nosy (or someone
who is nosy)
Mas: Carnival, masquerade
Wine: both a noun and
verb, describing sensual
Trinbagonian dancing; ask for
a demonstration!
Above Former Miss Universe 1998 Wendy Fitzwilliam in carnival array (Martin Farinha)
14 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
17. HeaTHer HeaDley: Trinidad-born Tony
Award-winning and Grammy-nominated singer and
actress
clr JaMes: prolific writer, historian, cultural
and political figure, and leading voice in Pan-
Africanist movement
lennox kilgour: Olympic bronze
medallist in weightlifting (1952)
brian lara: multiple record-holding
cricketer with two test match score records (375
runs not out in 1994 and 400 not out in 2004);
highest first class score (501 not out, also in
1994); all-time leading run scorer in test cricket
giselle laronDe-wesT: Miss World
1986
resolution for the establishment of the International
Josanne lucas: Tobago-born sprinter, Criminal Court
and the island’s first female World Championship
medallist (400m hurdles in 2009) Jizelle salanDy: won her first junior
WBA and WBC World Light Middleweight titles in
peTer MinsHall: mas designer, multiple 2006, adding IWBF and WIBA titles by 2007. Died
winner of Band of the Year titles, winner of T&T’s tragically in 2009
first Emmy Award for costuming of the 2002 Winter
Olympics opening ceremony leslie “Tiger” sTewarT: boxer lifted
the 1986 WBA Light Heavyweight belt; islands’
vs naipaul: Trinidadborn, knighted (UK, second World Champion
1990) Nobel Prize winner (Literature, 2000)
ricHarD THoMpson: double 2008
clauDe noel: Tobago native and nation’s Olympic silver medallist (men’s 100m dash and
first boxing World Champion, lifting the WBA’s World men’s 4x100m relay) and World Championship
Lightweight title in 1981 silver medallist (men’s 4x100 relay)
billy ocean: born Leslie Charles in kwaMe Ture: born Stokely Carmichael
Trinidad, international pop star with hits like in Trinidad, former prime minister of the Black
“Caribbean Queen” (1984) Panthers, leader of the All-African People’s
Revolutionary Party
Jean pierre: scored the most goals in
the 1979 World Netball Championships to lead roDney wilkes: nation’s first Olympic
T&T to victory, the first country to host and win the medallist for weightlifting (silver in 1948, bronze
championships in 1952)
renny quow: Tobago-born sprinter, winning DwigHT yorke: Tobago-born football star
the island’s first medal (bronze) in the men’s 400m and leading striker for UK teams like Manchester
at the World Championships (2009) United and Aston Villa. He was an integral part
of Trinidad & Tobago’s unsucessful World Cup
ria raMnarine: nation’s first female World campaign in 1989. Years later, he captained T&T
Champion (2005), and WIBA Mini Flyweight title to an impressive debut at the 2006 World Cup in
holder (2009) Germany, where the islands made history as the
smallest country ever to qualify
arTHur nr robinson: Former President
of the republic, launched UN General Assembly Above Stephen Ames, T&T’s US PGA Tour golf professional (Mark Meredith)
15
18. T&T: NOW aNd ThEN
THen 1884: Hosay Riots in Trinidad; Tobago’s sugar
c 15,000 islands part of South America; settled by industry collapses
-1,000 BC: Amerindians 1889-98: Tobago merged with Trinidad; Tobago
1498: Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad Assembly disbanded
on July 31, claims island for Spanish and 1903: Water Riots in Port of Spain; Red House
names it after Catholic Holy Trinity burns down
1596: Tobago claimed by British 1908: commercial oil production begins in
1627–1650: Courlanders settle Tobago’s west coast southern Trinidad
near Plymouth, and Dutch the east 1914: first calypso recorded in Trinidad
1699: Trinidad Amerindians rebel against 1925: first national elections (limited franchise)
Capuchin missionaries (Arena Uprising) 1931: Piarco International Airport opens
1757: Trinidad’s Spanish governor moves capital 1935-41: first steelpans emerge in Laventille,
to Port of Spain from St Joseph Trinidad
1768–9: first Tobago Assembly established; 1937: oilfield and labour strikes led in southern
Scarborough made island’s capital Trinidad by Tubal Uriah “Buzz” Butler
1776: oldest forest reserve in western 1940: Crown Point Airport opens in Tobago;
hemisphere designated in Tobago national airline British West Indies Airways
1781: French seize Tobago, convert it to sugar (BWIA) commences operations
colony 1941: Chaguaramas peninsula
1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula de 1945: public emergence of steelbands; universal
Población entices Catholic white and free suffrage implemented
coloured settlers to Trinidad with land 1951: repeal of ordinance prohibiting activities
incentives; rapid development begins of Spiritual “Shouter” Baptist faith
1790: great fire of Scarborough destroys much of 1956: self government under Eric Williams’
downtown; hurricane ravages island People’s National Movement (PNM)
1797: Trinidad captured by Sir Ralph 1958: islands join Federation of West Indies
Abercromby’s British fleet 1960: Trinidad campus of University of the West
1801: massive slave uprising in Tobago quelled Indies (UWI) established
1806: first Chinese workers imported to Trinidad 1962: islands leave Federation, gain
1807: slave trading abolished in British empire independence from Britain
1808: great fire of Port of Spain destroys much 1963: Hurricane Flora devastates Tobago
of the city 1970: “Black Power” uprising in Trinidad
1814: Tobago ceded to British under Treaty of 1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I) releases
Paris first soca album
1816: six companies of free blacks from the 1976: new republican constitution; president
United States (mainly Baptist) settle in replaces British monarch as head of state
southern Trinidad, and one in Tobago 1980: Tobago House of Assembly restored;
1834-8: slavery abolished – slaves apprenticed islands enjoy economic prosperity
(1834) then emancipated (1838) 1983: oil prices fall, crippling local economy
1834-1917: indentured labour imported to Trinidad 1990: unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-
from other islands, China, Portugal, Syria, Islamist Jamaat al Muslimeen
Lebanon, and India
1857: first oil well drilled in Trinidad near Pitch now
Lake 2007: Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA as
1858-84: Trinidad governor criminalises Carnival national carrier; record oil prices fuel
activities economic boom
1881: Canboulay Riots in Trinidad 2008: economic slowdown
Opposite page Design by Shurnel at T&T Fashion Week 2009 (Edison Boodoosingh)
16 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
20. January
• 1 (public holiday): New Year’s
Day
• Carnival season begins
• Harvest Festivals (Tobago):
Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring
Garden, Plymouth and Mt
Pleasant
• Sailing season begins
• Tobago Carnival Caravan
February
• Carnival countdown begins
• Harvest Festivals (Tobago):
Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo,
Franklyn and Bon Accord
• Tobago Carnival Caravan
• 12: Soca Monarch finals
(Trinidad)
• 13: Panorama finals (Trinidad)
Top Carnival Queens semi-finals: Kadaffi Romney plays “Manzandaba In Flight” from “Africa – • 14: Dimanche Gras (Trinidad);
Her People, Her Glory, Her Tears” (CaféMoka)
Above An Orisha elder and devotee perform a ritual in honour of Oshun at the Ojubo Orisa
Chinese New Year (year of the
Omolu shrine in Chaguanas (Mariamma Kambon) Tiger)
18 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
21. of the colonial ban on the June
“Shouter” Baptist faith, a
fusion of African and Christian • Ganga Dhaara River Festival:
traditions, with performances honours the descent of
and religious observances India’s sacred River Ganges
(Blanchisseuse, Trinidad)
• Harvest Festivals (Tobago):
April Lambeau, Bloody Bay and
• 2–5 (with public holidays): Roxborough
long Easter weekend features • Junior Tobago Heritage
hot cross buns, horse racing Festival
at the Santa Rosa track in • St Peter’s Day Fisherman’s
Arima (Trinidad), and goat Festival (Tobago)
and crab races in Tobago’s Mt • 3 (public holiday): Corpus
Pleasant (Monday) and Buccoo Christi celebrated by Catholics
(Tuesday) in honour of the sacramental
• Jazz Artists on the Greens Eucharist
(Pigeon Point, Tobago) • 4–12: WeBeat Festival (St
• Pan Jazz in de Yard James, Trinidad)
• Harvest Festival (Tobago): • 19 (public holiday): Labour
Goodwood Day, marked by trade union
• Jazz on the Beach (Tobago) marches and gatherings in
• Pan in the 21st Century Fyzabad (Trinidad)
• Point Fortin Borough Day
(Trinidad): full week of J’ouvert,
mas, pan and parties July
• Tobago Jazz Experience • Charlotteville Fisherman’s
• 11th Annual Trade & Fest (Tobago)
• 15–16: Carnival Monday and Investment Convention • Harvest Festivals (Tobago):
Tuesday (Trinidad) Castara and Black Rock
• Carnival cooldowns • Jazz on the Hill (Trinidad)
• 19–21: Tobago Carnival • Prime Minister’s Charity Golf
Regatta (Tobago) May Classic (Tobago)
• Beacon Cycling Series • Soca for Summer and other
• Harvest Festivals (Tobago): big concerts featuring local and
March Whim, Delaford, Belle Garden international stars
• Argyle Falls cool down and Mason Hall • South Caribbean Open Golf
(Tobago) • La Divina Pastora (Siparia, Tournament (Tobago)
• Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Trinidad) • Steelpan Music Festival
Mt St George, Mason Hall, • Maypole Festival (Tobago) (Trinidad)
Roxborough, Bon Accord • 29: Rainbow Cup • Tobago Games
• Missionary Love Feast in International Triathlon • Tobago Heritage Festival
Moriah on Palm Sunday (Tobago) • Tourism Adventure Park or T&T
• 20: Jazz Artists on the Greens • Taste Trinidad & Tobago: Road Trip: displays, tours, and
(St Augustine, Trinidad) celebrates the islands’ culinary live entertainment
• Phagwa (Holi) dexterity • 30–Aug 4: 11th Great Fête
• Tobago International Game • Tobago Culinary Festival Weekend (Tobago)
Fishing Tournament • Rapsofest: the Power of the
• 4–7: T&T Golf Open Oral Traditions
• Turtle nesting season begins • Trinidad & Tobago Fashion August
• 30 (public holiday): Spiritual Week • 1 (public holiday):
“Shouter” Baptist Liberation • 30 (public holiday): Indian Emancipation Day
Day commemorates the end Arrival Day • Arima Borough Day: J’ouvert,
19
22. steelpan, calypso and parties the goddess of love, fertility runs through December
marking the borough’s and inland waters (Trinidad)
anniversary (Trinidad) • 24: Santa Rosa Festival • San Fernando Jazz Festival
• Best Village competition (Arima, Trinidad) (Trinidad)
begins, runs through November • 31 (public holiday): • Tobago Fest: parties, street
• Carib Great Race Independence Day parade and J’ouvert
• Castara Fisherman’s Fête • Tobago International Gospel
(Tobago) Festival
• Harvest Festival (Tobago): September • Trinidad & Tobago Film
Speyside • Eid-ul-Fitr (public holiday) Festival
• Muhtadi International • International Open Water • Turtle watching season ends
Drumming Festival: started Swim • 24 (public holiday): Republic
in Canada by Trinidad- • Horse racing classics in Day
born Muhtadi Thomas, and Arima: Royal Oak Derby, Santa
highlights different cultures Rosa Oaks and Caribbean
around the call of the drums Champion Stakes (Trinidad) October
(Tobago) • Panyard Sensations • 14: Amerindian Heritage
• Osun River Festival: marked • Parang season: begins with Day, where descendants from
by Orisa devotees celebrating competition at month’s end, around the region gather for
20 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
20 Discover Trinidad & Tobago 2010 www.discovertnt.com
23. Opposite page Celebrating Divali in Felicity (Edison Boodoosingh) Above Part of the annual Independence Day Parade (Mariamma Kambon)
a smoke ceremony and street • Harvest Festivals (Tobago): recreation day
procession in Arima (Trinidad) Plymouth, Black Rock, Les • Paramin Parang Festival
• Blue Food Festival (Tobago) Coteaux, Moriah, Scarborough, (Trinidad)
• Coast-2-Coast Adventure Montgomery • Tobago Flying Colours: annual
Race (Trinidad) • Pan is Beautiful XII kite flying festival in Plymouth
• European Film Festival • Scarborough Cup Golf • Hosay (Trinidad)
(Trinidad) Tournament (Tobago) • 25 (public holiday): Christmas
• Harvest Festival (Tobago): • Tobago Christmas Caravan Day
Patience Hill • University of the West Indies • 26 (public holiday): Boxing
• National Tourism Week International Half Marathon Day, marked with horse racing
• Ramleela festival (Trinidad) and parties
• Steelpan & Jazz Festival
(Trinidad) Many dates are set just before
December the events are scheduled, and
• Assembly Day: Tobago House are always subject to change or
November of Assembly celebrates cancellation. For more, see our
• Divali (public holiday) and awards Tobagonians’ Festivals sections under each
• Best Village competition achievements, along with island, and visit us online at
finals exhibitions and a sports and www.discovertnt.com
21
26. TObagO
hOSpiTaliTy
Tobago offers something for everyone. From Where to start
the busy southwest to the rainforests of the • Abraham Realty
(Scarborough): 639-3325,
interior, you can find comfortable, quality www.abrahamrealty.com
lodging. • Belleviste Apartments
(Crown Point): 639-9351,
You can choose a luxury or budget hotel, www.belleviste.com
• Blue Haven Hotel
a beach resort, an elegant villa, a self- (Scarborough): 660-7400,
catering apartment, a homely guesthouse, www.bluehavenhotel.com
• Blue Waters Inn (Speyside):
or a simple cottage in a quiet fishing 660-2583,
www.bluewatersinn.com
village. Most choices offer airport transfers • Crown Point Beach Hotel
and visitor activities including tours led by (Crown Point): 639-8781,
www.crownpointbeachhotel.
experienced nature guides. com
arounD crown poinT THeMeD HoliDays price & availabiliTy
Hotels and resorts are thick on There are lodgings geared to Tobago is working to extend its
the ground in Crown Point, near specific interests, whether you’re accommodation options. Two
the airport, including Blue Haven, on a diving trip (try the Blue new large hotels are in the works,
Crown Point Hotel and Tropikist. Waters Inn in Speyside), a golfing including the island’s first five-star
There are self-catering apartments holiday (luxurious villas like Sans facility at Culloden Reef.
at Belleviste and Store Bay Holiday Souci will help you rest up before Until then, make sure you book
Resort, and stunning villas like teeing off), or an escape into ahead for traditionally popular
those at Stonehaven, Seahorse Inn nature (try the Footprints Eco times of the year such as Easter,
and Plantation Beach Villas a little Resort). Carnival, the Jazz festival and
way up the coast. holiday weekends.
24 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
27. • Footprints Eco Resort
(Golden Lane): 660-0416,
www.footprintseco-resort.com
• Ocean Point Resort (Lowlands): 639-0973,
www.oceanpoint.com
• Plantation Beach Villas
(Black Rock): 639-9377,
www.plantationbeachvillas.com
• Seahorse Inn (Black Rock): 639-0686,
www.seahorseinntobago.com
• Store Bay Holiday Resort (Crown Point): 639-
8810,
www.storebayholidays.com
• Tropikist Beach Hotel
(Crown Point): 639-8512, Crown Point Beach Hotel
www.tropikist.com
Tel: (868) 639-8781/3 • Fax: (868) 639-8731
• Villa Sans Souci (Lowlands): 639-3325, E-mail: reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com
www.villassanssouci.com www.crownpointbeachhotel.com
• Villas at Stonehaven Set on seven acres of beautifully landscaped
(Black Rock): 639-0361, grounds overlooking Store Bay, we offer
www.stonehavenvillas.com ocean view accommodation with kitchenette.
The Chart House poolside restaurant and
Sundowners bar cater for your entire food
planTaTion beacH villas and beverage requirements. Recreational
The Caribbean sea, a beautiful beach, 6 facilities include tennis courts, table tennis,
luxurious villas, a grove of trees. Ideal for shuffleboard and free internet facilities for
families, weddings and reunions. We assure you our guests. From our grounds you can walk
a taste of paradise. down steps that lead to Store Bay Beach.
28.
29.
30.
31. muSiC
and the arts
Once, Tobago was strictly a
place to relax and unwind. Not
any more. The entertainment
landscape has been expanding,
and Tobago is attracting
international acts and patrons
Veteran calypsonian Winston Bailey (The Mighty Shadow) performs as a
special guest at Dimanche Gras, 2009 (Mark Lyndersay)
29
32. bars & clubs
For chilling out after sunset,
there are plenty of bars, clubs,
hotels and restaurants that offer
good drinks, live performances,
tasty food and good company.
For happy hours, try
Sundowners Bar with its sunset
views of Store Bay, or the Pavilion
Restaurant and Seahorse Inn
which both offer exquisite views
of Stonehaven Bay.
Sports bars like the snazzy
folk perforMance new Bar Code in Scarborough
The Itsy Bitsy Folk Theatre presents dinner theatre several (639-CODE, www.barcodetobago.
Tuesdays during the year. The dance and music communities com) are an emerging format
(particularly the drummers) are quite vibrant on the island: in Tobago. Here you can enjoy
many groups meet regularly every week for practice, and guest an array of signature drinks and
at various events. These are also the groups who take the stage local or international dishes,
at the Tobago Heritage Festival in July – not to be missed if you while taking in a seaside view.
really want to know Tobago. You can shoot some pool
30 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
33. afterwards, catch one of the cineMas aficionados descending on the
sports games on their big-screen There is one cinema in island for the annual jazz festival.
TV, or enjoy a live performance. Scarborough, and a multiplex
While the clubs are really cinema at the new Gulf City visual arTs
pumping on the weekends, some – Lowlands Mall. There is a small but impressive
especially in the Crown Point area visual arts community in
– present mid-week entertainment, Music Tobago. Artists like Luise Kimme
with local bands, drummers, Tobago is staging big music (639-0257, www.luisekimme.
dance groups and theme nights. concerts these days, often com) and Martin and Rachael
In season, Golden Star presents featuring Jamaican dancehall or Superville (owners of The Art
variety shows and the Scouting for reggae singers – more choices on Gallery) have impressive studios
Talent competition (followed by DJ the entertainment menu. with original artwork on display
music and dancing). Not that music is confined or for sale. The Tobago Museum
Friday and Saturday are big to big events. Bars, clubs, hotels (639-3970) at Fort King George
nights at The Shade nightclub, and restaurants feature local in Scarborough exhibits local art.
while Tobago’s other club, The performers as regular and rotating Other well-known artists include
Deep, is open every night. And of headliners, with theme nights Jim Armstrong, Kevin Ayoung-
course, you can’t forget “Sunday reserved for hip-hop, jazz, Latin, Julien, Edward Hernandez, David
School” every Sunday night at reggae, R&B, and of course Knott, and Earl Manswell.
Buccoo Village, where both tourists calypso, soca and steelpan music.
and locals gather along the streets April is jazz month, with for much more, visit
of the village to enjoy local food, local, regional and international us online at www.
steel band music, and popular DJs. jazz (and non-jazz) talent and discovertobago.com
Opposite page (top) Folk Fiesta Heritage dancer doing the belè (Oswin Browne)
Opposite page (bottom) Tambrin drums are warmed by the fire which gives them their unique sound (Oswin Browne)
31
34. Buccoo Bay (Mark Meredith)
32 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
36. Around Crown Point food stalls, changing rooms grange beacH (aka
THe wall): Just past the Mt
pigeon poinT: Tobago’s canoe bay: Tobago’s Irvine Golf Course, this is an ideal
most famous beach. Protected calmest and shallowest bathing beach for swimming
by Buccoo Reef, the calm waters beach, perfect for young families.
make it ideal for families. Great Rarely crowded, with excellent sToneHaven bay:
for watersports enthusiasts; facilities including bar and magnificent, rugged beach with
some glass-bottom boat tours beachfront cabanas. Entrance fee good facilities
start from here. Entrance fee
MT irvine: a pair of Leeward coast
sTore bay: extremely beaches offering excellent
popular (and busy) beach for facilities, snorkelling and surfing casTara: stunning, quiet
both locals and visitors. Great for (in season). The Mt Irvine Beach and unspoilt beach in a friendly
swimming, and snorkelling under Hotel side offers refreshments and fishing village, with calm water
coral cliffs at southern end. Glass- beach amenities. Snorkelling gear, and fine golden sand. Enjoy the
bottom boat tours leave from canoes and hobie cats can be sight of fishermen bringing in their
here. Excellent craft shopping, hired onsite nets (“pulling seine”) or bread
baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens.
Excellent facilities including a
restaurant, stores and craft stalls.
Accommodation nearby
englisHMan’s bay:
quiet and secluded crescent-
shaped bay, hidden by trees. Its
deep, clear waters offer good
swimming and snorkelling. Craft
shopping and restaurant onsite
culloDen beacH: good
snorkelling. Follow the signs to
Footprints Eco Resort
king peTer’s bay: quiet,
calm bay with dark sand. Good
snorkelling and spear fishing
parlaTuvier: fishing
village with a tranquil beach and a
few snackettes
blooDy bay: secluded,
breezy beach with clear blue
waters, nothing at all like its name!
Man o’ war bay: main
beach near Charlotteville, ideal for
swimming. Accommodation nearby
piraTe’s bay: stunning
and unspoilt beach with crystal-
clear water and a fabulous view.
Accessed via half-mile long dirt
track, or by sea
34 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
37. Windward coast
bacoleT bay: used as a
location in the 1960s Swiss Family
Robinson film, this black-sand
beach is popular with surfers
bellevue bay: accessed
off the Belle Garden Bay Road
junction, the waters here are
calm by windward-side standards
king’s bay: picturesque
long stretch with calm water and
good facilities. Fresh fish on sale;
fisherman “pull seine” in the
evenings
speysiDe: Tobago’s dive
capital. Speyside and Blue
Waters beaches both offer
tranquillity and great snorkelling; bE iN ThE kNOW…
the offshore reef is within
swimming distance. Glass- Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm
bottom boat trips to Angel Reef, where available, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate
Goat Island and Little Tobago unsafe bathing areas
start here. Watersports facilities,
accommodation and restaurants Permits are required both for camping and for turtle-watching
abound on the nation’s beaches. Contact a reputable tour guide, your
hotel, or the Forestry Division to make arrangements
for much more, visit
us online at www. Tropical sun can quickly give light skins a bad burn, even
discovertobago.com through cloud, so use your sunscreen
From top Store Bay, Crown Point (Mark Meredith), Carnival visitor Tomas Mikuzis from Miami relaxing in Tobago after
enjoying his first Carnival (Peter Sheppard) Opposite page Pigeon Point, Tobago (Peter Sheppard)
35
38. lET’S
EaT OuT
As in every culture, food and festivity
go hand in hand in Tobago.
36 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
39. Many of Tobago’s good
restaurants take advantage
of the island’s exquisite
landscape. Breathtaking
hillside or ocean views,
waterwheels and sugar mills
can all be part of the dining
experience.
Most restaurants are in the
island’s touristy southwestern
tip, Scarborough and the
northeast. Roadside eateries
abound, serving home-style
Tobagonian dishes, while
trendy sports bars offer their
own cocktails of food, drink,
and entertainment.
No matter where you eat,
you’re unlikely to go wrong
if you choose fresh seafood,
Tobago’s signature crab-and-
dumpling, or freshly squeezed
tropical juices. And Tobago’s
snacks and desserts will
indulge any sweet tooth.
Where to start www.crownpointbeachhotel. entertainment at peak times
com of year. 639-0686, www.
• Bar Code Sports Bar & Grill • Cocoa House Restaurant seahorseinntobago.com
(Scarborough): this stylish & Bar (Golden Lane): 660-
new sports bar is located 0416, www.footprints-resort.
right at the Scarborough port, com
giving you relaxing views of • Sea Horse Inn Restaurant
the ships and ferries coming & Bar (Black Rock): featured
and going. Enjoy a range of on the UK’s Richard & Judy
signature drinks and local and show (GMTV) and the Travel
international dishes (including Channel, there’s a little
a local staple, fish broth); something for any palette
shoot some pool; watch big – from seafood to steaks,
sports games on their big- local creole to international sHore THings
screen TV; or rock to the beat and fusion. Enjoy beautiful 25 Milford Road, Lambeau.
of their live music acts. 639- oceanside breezes and views T: 635-1072
CODE, www.barcodetobago. of Stonehaven beach, where Delightful seaside verandah
com giant leatherbacks come dining for brunches, lunches
• Blue Waters Inn Restaurant ashore March–August. Sip and teas in a setting of
(Speyside): 660-2583, www. delicious cocktails at the Caribbean craft and rhythm.
bluewatersinn.com bar, or dive in to a delicious Mon-Fri 10am–6pm, Sat
• Chart House Restaurant 3-course meal under 8am–4pm.
(Crown Point): 639-8781, the stars. There’s nightly
Above A selection of herbs, seasonings and vegetables used in local cooking (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Opposite page
This local creation of sliced baigan (melongene) topped with sliced onion, fresh tomato, cheese and local herbs is
a tasty appetiser (Marc Seyon/Very Caribbean Limited – verycaribbean.com)
37
41. Bon Accord Lagoon (Oswin Browne)
Small island,
big advENTurE
Tobago has been voted the world’s top eco-tourism destination (World
Travel Awards, 2003). Fertile and pristine, and blessed with continental
biodiversity from the time when Tobago (and Trinidad) were joined to the
South American mainland, Tobago is home to a wealth of ecosystems. It
brims with activities and adventures to satisfy the most active eco-explorer
– and there’s plenty to interest the more laid-back nature lover too.
39
42. World-renowned biodiversity
For centuries, Tobago’s unique worth has been appreciated and protected,
on both land and sea.
Tobago’s central mountain range (rising to 876m/1,890ft)
encompasses the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere,
which became a reserve in 1776. In 1973, Buccoo Reef was designated a
nationally protected marine area.
The Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon Complex is the island’s first
Ramsar Site, recognised as a wetland of international importance. It
embraces the ancient inshore coral reef system on the leeward coast and
the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds, where the rarely
seen green sea turtle may be found.
Here are some of our favourite eco adventures.
Eco adventures on land
Trails: hiking, mountain biking and horseback trails carry you into
the heart of the island. The most frequented hiking area is the Main Ridge
forest, easily accessibly by the Gilpin and Niplig trails. Biking enthusiasts
can opt for easy trails, like those passing through the boardwalk around
the Lowlands area, or extreme mountain trails that can be reached only on
foot – all offer spectacular vistas. Guides are recommended or required
waTerfalls: experienced guides can escort you through the
rainforest or to the 3-tiered Argyle Falls near Roxborough. Visitors to
Rainbow Waterfall can experience local cultivation techniques while
literally sharing in the fruits of their labour
Tobago cocoa esTaTe: a working cocoa plantation and
heritage park, where visitors can participate in the fermentation and
drying processes. Once considered a dying art, these techniques are being
revitalised for the first time since Hurricane Flora decimated Tobago’s
cocoa crops in 1963
grafTon caleDonia wilDlife birD sancTuary:
formerly a cocoa plantation, it is now a nature centre complete with
winding trails frequented by the ‘king of the woods’, or mot mot. Twice
daily feedings guarantee excellent bird sightings
offsHore islanDs: superlative places for bird watching. The
imposing frigate birds seen circling high above the ocean roost on St
Giles. Rare red-billed tropic birds nest December–July on Little Tobago
aDvenTure naTure reserve: a 12-acre estate in Arnos
Vale shelters many wild birds. The prolific flora attract butterflies, and there
are established organic orchards including mango and citrus
TurTle waTcHing: one of Tobago’s best-known nature activities
is watching the ancient nesting ritual of the sea turtles (March–August).
40 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
43. Although five species of marine
turtles are either native to
or migratory to Tobago, the
most common are the giant
leatherback, hawksbill and
green. All (and their eggs) are
legally protected. Leatherbacks
come ashore primarily in Black
Rock, while the coral reefs of the
northeast welcome hawksbills.
Greens can be found near
seagrass beds around the island
Eco adventures at
sea
glass-boTToM boaT
Tours: one of the most
popular marine activities,
suitable for all ages and fitness
levels. A tour of Buccoo Reef
includes the intriguingly named
Nylon Pool, and the other-worldly
Coral Gardens replete with
staghorn and star coral, sea fans
and other octocorals. Speyside
visitors have a chance to see the
world’s largest brain coral
Above A newly hatched turtle makes a dash
across Grafton Beach Tobago for the safety
of the sea (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Below Gilpin
Trail, one of many in Tobago’s Main Ridge
(Oswin Browne)
41
44. snorkelling &
Diving: available island-wide
bE iN ThE kNOW…
for every level of expertise. Drift • Permits are needed for some locations and activities (like
snorkelling and diving in coastal camping and turtle-watching), but any reputable guide or
areas minimises damage to tour operator will arrange these
the living reefs. In addition to
an assortment of tropical fish, • Don’t attempt a long hike or eco adventure without a
in November–June huge manta reputable, certified guide: it’s easy to get lost or have an
rays glide silently alongside the accident
undersea visitor
• Snakebites and scorpion stings are rare; the biggest
waTersporTs: enjoy kite natural danger is the Portuguese Man-o’-War (vinegar
surfing, kayaking, and jet skiing: is good if you get stung), and the sap and fruit of the
popular spots are Pigeon Point, manchineel tree (most common on beaches). Seek local
Mt Irvine and Charlotteville. For advice on whether these are present
traditional surfboarding, Mt Irvine
and Grange Bay are exceptional; • Wear long trousers for lengthy bush treks and never wear
and the wind is just right for kite open-toed sandals. Comfortable shoes with good grip are
surfing at Little Rockly Bay. There recommended
are chartered boats that sail up
the coast serving refreshment in a • Take a little knapsack with a change of clothes, socks and
wonderful Caribbean atmosphere something to eat, stored in a waterproof bag. If you carry
a camera that’s not waterproof, you’ll want to keep it here
gaMe fisHing: for those too
who prefer catching fish to
swimming alongside them, the • Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes and if you’re in
T&T Game Fishing Association the open, soaks up the heat
has six fishing tournaments
scheduled for 2010. For two • When turtle watching, do not use flash photography, touch
years running, blue marlin or otherwise disturb nesting turtles, as this can cause them
over 800lbs have been caught severe distress
here. Environmentally sound
techniques are employed; a • Please keep Tobago clean: don’t discard your rubbish in
catch and release programme waterways and in the outdoors
ensures that non-champion sized
catches are tagged and returned Whatever your pleasure, you are far more likely to run short
to the sea. Tobago’s peak fishing of time than of things to do in Tobago; perhaps this is why so
season runs November–May many visitors return, year after year.
Opposite page A cocrico (Ortalis ruficauda), the national bird of Tobago, Grafton Bird Sancuary, Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh)
42 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
45. Where to start
• Footprints Eco Resort
(Golden Lane): 660-0416,
www.footprints-resort.com
• Frankie’s Tours & Rentals
(Mt Irvine): 631-0369,
www.frankietours-tobago.com
• Ocean Experience
(Crown Point): 631-8430,
A world of diversity oceanexperiencetgo@yahoo.com
Tobago has an incredible degree of biodiversity for its small size. Its • Plantation Beach Watersports
abundance of flora and fauna include: (Bon Accord): 639-SAIL,
• 210 recorded bird species www.sailtobago.com
• 133 species of butterflies (including the impressive blue emperor)
• 25 species of snake (none of them poisonous) • Sherman’s Auto Rentals &
• 17 species of bats Ground Tours
• 14 species of frog (Lambeau): 639-2292,
• 12 species of mammals www.shermansrental.com
• 5 species of marine turtles (including the endangered giant
leatherback) for more, visit us online
• 6 species of lizard at www.discovertobago.
com
43
46. buSiNESS
braNChES OuT
Tobago’s economy is almost equally divided between the public sector
and tourism, and the global economic climate, including a new travel tax
implemented in the UK, has significantly impacted the tourism industry.
The Airports Authority tallied
international visitor air arrivals
to Tobago at 56,517 for 2008,
down 15% from 66,266 in 2007.
Tobago has also suffered from
inflationary pressures over the last
few years, particularly in the area
of food prices. While the tourism
industry is expected to recover
and rebound strongly after the
downturn, economic diversification
is not only desirable but necessary.
To this end, the much-
publicised Cove Eco-Industrial
Estate and Business Park (CEIDP),
brainchild of the Tobago House
of Assembly (THA), is nearing
completion. Promoting light
industry, CEIDP will accommodate
knowledge-based industry
including information technology,
light manufacturing, agro-
processing and export as well as
selected downstream activities
related to natural gas. It will also
Where to start house a receiving/metering facility
for natural gas from Trinidad.
Cove Eco-Industrial & Business Park: Tobago House of Assembly Investment is encouraged
(Scarborough): 631-2683, www.tobagocove.com through various tax holidays,
Tobago Hotel & Tourism Association (Carnbee): 639-9543, www. incentives and exemptions,
tobagohoteltourism.com including those on import duty.
Trinidad & Tobago Chamber of Industry & Commerce: Tobago Division Additional incentives apply to the
(Scarborough): 639-2669, www.chamber.org.tt export-processing zone. Potential
Trinidad & Tobago Entertainment Company: 624-0514, www. investors are invited to apply
ttentonline.com for space in the business park
Trinidad & Tobago Film Company: 625-FILM (3456), www. and can contact Vernie Shield,
trinidadandtobagofilm.com Chairman, Tobago Division of the
T&T Chamber of Commerce, for
for much more, visit us online at www. information concerning investment
discovertobago.com in Tobago.
44 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
47. Above Goat racing at Buccoo (Oswin Browne)
Opposite page Unit Trust building, Scarborough
(Oswin Browne)
ThE
FESTivE
SpiriT
Tobago stages a major festival or
event every few months and mini-
festivals every month. It’s a wonder
there’s time to rest. Here are some of
the biggest.
45
48. HarvesT & fisHMerMan’s fesTivals
There are Sunday harvest festivals in one of the island’s villages every
month, where villagers share food and drink and communal celebration.
Fisherman’s festivals take place in the coastal villages during the year,
mainly on St Peter’s Day (June 29). Both events begin with church
services in the morning and end with eating, drinking, and partying in
the night!
carnival
Tobagonians enjoy a Carnival season that is more laid back than the
sister isle’s, and focuses more on the theatrical and folk elements of
Carnival. Most play traditional mud mas (said to be therapeutic for the
skin) – which of course necessitates an ocean swim afterwards. The
THA’s Inter-department Queen and Calypso Show, and the Roxborough
Afro-Queen and Windward Calypso Show, are staple seasonal events.
The legend of Gang Gang Sarah
It’s a story that has been passed down for generations. Gang Gang
Sarah was a wise witch (or, depending on who you ask, a soucouyant
– a noctural bloodsucking creature of local folklore that can turn
itself into a ball of fire) who flew from Africa to Tobago centuries
ago in search of her family. In her old age, after her husband’s death,
she climbed a giant silk cotton tree (sacred in many indigenous
religions) hoping to fly back to her homeland. But having eaten
local salt she was unable to fly, and fell to her death. The “Witch’s
Grave” marks where she fell.
goaT & crab racing
At Easter time, only Friday and Monday are official holidays, but Easter
Tuesday is not really a day for work in Tobago: everyone heads to Buccoo
for the Family Day and Goat and Crab Races. There is special training for
the goat ‘jockeys’, and a track has been constructed especially for this
race; even Virgin Atlantic’s Richard Branson has taken part. The Festival
has been hosted in Buccoo for nearly 80 years, and in fact is so nice it’s
done twice: first from Easter Sunday to the following Tuesday, and then
again for the Heritage Festival mid-year.
Jazz fesTival
April’s Tobago Jazz Experience replaced the Plymouth Jazz Festival in
2009. While it still has international headliners as part of the show, like
its predecessor, the new focus is more on local, regional, and “world
music” artists. A few shows are free, and there is a Caravan feature
which takes some performances to different villages around Tobago.
Tobago culinary fesTival
Produced each May by the Tourism Department of the THA, this free
international culinary event invites you to sample dishes from around
the world, and especially those native to Tobago, all in the beautiful and
relaxed environment of Pigeon Point.
46 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
49. FESTival TradiTiONS
Moriah Wedding: signature Tobago Heritage Festival event,
featuring groom in stovepipe hat and tailcoat and bride with
trousseau on head, processing slowly with the distinctive
three-step “brush back”
Tambrin: quintessential Tobagonian music, driven by three
shallow goatskin tambrin drums (high pitched cutter, roller,
and boom bass), fiddle, and steel triangle. Accompanies
social events
Reel, Jig and Saraka: indigenous dances from Pembroke,
with roots in West African rituals invoking the ancestors,
and accompanied by tambrin music. Libations are offered at
the beginning of reels. Saraka feast held in Pembroke during
Tobago Heritage Festival
Speech bands: Tobago Carnival tradition, featuring cast of
costumed characters speechifying in rhyme.
Left A belè dancer performs during the visit of HRH the Prince of Wales to Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh)
Right Royal Sweet Fingers, the most popular tambrin band in Tobago, warm their tambrins over
an open flame (Oswin Browne)
47
50. Below The Great Race takes place at greaT feTe & carib greaT race
the end of August (Martin Farinha)
Opposite page Tobago’s new The Great Race (August) is a major event that draws Trinidadians to Tobago
Lowlands Mall in droves. First held in 1969, this 84-mile speed-boat race from Trinidad’s
Gulf of Paria to Crown Point in Tobago ends in the ultimate beach party
(which starts well before the boats reach the finish line and ends in the
wee hours of the next morning). The race starts early in the morning, and
the first boats normally arrive at about 9am on the beach.
Originally tied to the Great Race festivities, Tobago’s Great Fête
Weekend (July/August) is now a separate five-day beach party at Store
Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine.
HeriTage fesTival sees the dasheen plant – all of
The Heritage Festival (July) is it – used to prepare all kinds of
the premier cultural event on the mouth-watering dishes, including
island, with a new theme every bread, cookies, lasagne, and
year. Each village produces an even ice-cream. The festival takes
event showcasing the island’s place in the countryside amidst
unique mores and traditions in the lush green forest of the Main
dance, music, cuisine, story- Ridge, and includes a culinary
telling, drama and more. The competition, a cultural show, a
festival serves not only as an mini zoo and sometimes a queen
entertainment event, but a way show.
of teaching and passing on
communal values and customs. for a full listing of
annual events and
blue fooD fesTival public holidays, visit the
This October event brings the calendar section of this
whole island to Bloody Bay on book. and for much more,
the northwest coast. A truly visit us online at www.
unique culinary experience, it discovertobago.com
48 Discover Tobago 2010 www.discovertobago.com
51. a NEW
lEvEl
of shopping
in Tobago
Tobagonian ingenuity ensures that your
shopping experience here will be unique.
Rustic or elegant, utilitarian or ornamental,
there is truly something for everyone’s taste
and shopping list (including yours!).
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