Motor funcionando con agua

2013
HHO Manual

John Niemann
For Water4Gas

Water4Gas™ HHO Manual 2013

Table of Contents
CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ............................................................... 3
CHAPTER 2. INTRODUCTION TO MAJOR COMPONENTS ........................... 5
CHAPTER 3. PLANNING ....................................................................... 8
CHAPTER 4. LAYOUT ......................................................................... 11
CHAPTER 5. MOUNTING..................................................................... 14
A) Flash chip ..................................................................... 14

B) Mounting the cell ........................................................... 14
C) PWM ............................................................................ 19

D) Tank ............................................................................ 22

E) Filter ............................................................................ 28
F) PWM Display ................................................................. 28

G) Voltage Sensing Wire ..................................................... 31
H.) Connect the HHO to the Air Intake System ...................... 32

CHAPTER 6. MIXING THE ELECTROLYTE SOLUTION ............................... 33
CHAPTER 7. UNDERSTANDING WHAT THE PWM IS TELLING YOU ............ 35
CHAPTER 8. CHECKING YOUR SYSTEM ................................................ 38
CHAPTER 9. PROGRAMMING THE PWM ................................................ 40
CHAPTER 10. CREDITS ........................................................................ 41

Order systems at: www.Water4Gas.com 2


CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION
This “information manual” explains how to install an ES4000 premiere kit in a 2007
Mitsubishi Spyder Eclipse GS. I decided on using the premiere systems for two reasons:

1. The premiere systems are easier to install (less components) and easier to
use (the PWM). I can only conclude that as HHO moves forward, the PWM
and other more advance electronics will become standard equipment,
because who doesn’t want the same savings with less headaches?
2. I own a 2007 Mitsubishi Spyder Eclipse GS, and have installed the ES4000
premiere kit. This gives me first hand knowledge that I hope to share.

I understand that every vehicle is different. However what I hope to accomplish in this
manual is to bring you (the reader) some first hand knowledge of what I did and how it
worked. In this manner I endeavor to give the reader a stating point, for your HHO
installation.

I hope that if you find this manual helpful in your HHO endeavor, you would consider
making a small donation. I would greatly appreciate it, as this manual did take quite a
bit of time, and I will do my best to use all donations in my effort to lessen America’s
dependence on foreign oil. If you would like to make a donation you can do it through
paypal with or without an account. If you have an account simply log in and click the
send money tab (next to My Account at the top of the page) and then send it to the
following email: Johnkim2jl@yahoo.com If you don’t have a account go to
www.paypal.com and click on where it says transfer or send money at the bottom of the
page. When it asks you for the email you wish to send it to, use the email mentioned
above.

Thank you.

Important

HHO (hydroxy gas) is highly combustible, volatile, and explosive however, it is no more
dangerous than any other fuel when it is used properly. The most important single
element in your installation is to make sure that HHO is only being produced when the
engine is actually running. For instance, you don’t want HHO being produced when you
are sitting in your car with the accessory switch on, listening to your CD player. The key
is to find a circuit that is only on when the engine is actually running. We have made it
easy to achieve this with our PWM design. The PWM will only operate when 12 volts are
applied to that wire. In this way, we have created a safety shutdown circuit for the
system. We recommend connecting this wire to the output of your fuel pump relay (I will
go over an alternative later). The fuel pump relay will only be powered on when the
engine is actually running, and is designed to shut off when the engine dies or is turned
off.



You should test the behavior of this circuit in your own vehicle to make sure it is only
activated when the engine is running. This point is very important. You don’t want to be
producing hydroxyl gas when the engine is not running.

Other safety points to consider:

• NO spark or flame should be allowed near HHO gas.
• All one-way valves must be installed.
• Do not operate the Dry Cell indoors.
• Use eye and skin protection when mixing or handling electrolyte.
• In the event of eye or skin contact with the electrolyte (KOH), flush with plain
water. Always consult the MSDS.
• Mix and store in heavy-duty plastic containers - keep away from children
• Assemble the following items in addition to those provided in the Dry Cell Kit:
• Voltmeter or multi-meter
• Basic tools: wire stripper, screwdriver, pliers, sockets (metric and standard),paint
striper/hair dryer, Drill and bits, hack saw, etc.
• Any terminals needed to connect power cables to battery
• 1 Gallon steam distilled water for electrolyte (make sure it says "steam distilled)

Before we begin you must ask yourself two questions:

1. Do I want to drill holes in my vehicle and have a quicker instillation?

OR

2. Do I want to take longer and drill few if any holes?

If you chose the first one you will be able to find spots all over where you can mount
things. If you chose the second one, it is a bit more challenging but still do able, as we
will discuss later on.

There are several advantages to taking road number two.

1. Every time you add something, or drill on a car, you are introducing new spot
rust can start.
2. If for any reason you want to remove it, you can put the car back to the way it
was before.
3. If you have a warranty on your vehicle, it’s hard for them to say you caused the
problem when you used all their (factory) holes.



CHAPTER 2. INTRODUCTION TO
MAJOR
COMPONENTS
There are 6 major components to ES4000 system

1. Flash chip- This is relatively new; it takes the place of the EFIE and the MAP
sensor foolers of the old days. This goes inside the cab near your OBD-II port. It will
connect to the OBD-II’s wiring. It is not very heavy or large, and best of all it, will not
void your warranty.

.

2. Cell- You really do not have to be able to see this after it has been installed. The
ES4000 cell is about 6.5 inches by 6.5 inches



3. PWM- You will be connecting the battery to the PWM. You will want to mount
your display in the passenger compartment. Make sure you locate the PWM close
enough to the display for the cable to reach. However, if you come up short you could
always get a CAT5 to CAT5 connector, and an extension cable. Another consideration for
location of the PWM is that it shouldn't receive direct water spray. Try to find a location
that is relatively safe from water. If needed, it can be located in the passenger
compartment, but that will require additional 12 gauge wire. I mounted mine in the
engine compartment in a protected location. I placed mine behind the battery, This was
also great because it kept the distance between the PWM and the battery to a minimum

4. Tank- You will obviously want to have easy access to this since every few tanks
of gas you will want to refill the tank. Also, it must be above the cell.



5. Filter- The filter filters the gas before it enters the engine (great name huh). That
way you get the cleanest HHO gas possible for your engine.

6. PWM display- This is probably one of the last things you will install. You will
probably want this in the cab so you can adjust it as you go.



CHAPTER 3. PLANNING
Before starting this it's always a good idea to read through the list first to make sure all
the parts are included.

Complete Dry Cell Kit includes:

• Dry-Cell Hydrolyzer
• Pulse Width Monitor (PWM) with LCD Display.
• Reservoir (tank)
• (2) One-way valves (Check valves)
• Heavy-duty plastic tubing (1/2” outside diameter, 1/4” inside diameter)
• Wire
• One bottle of electrolyte
• Heavy duty cable ties for clamping hose to fittings
• Quick connectors
• Circuit breaker
• Filter
• Flash chip (sold separately).
Assess the space available in the engine compartment. You must find space for the
following components:

• Dry Cell(s)
• Reservoir (tank) The Reservoir should be installed above (i.e., higher than) the Dry
Cell(s) to facilitate flow within the system.
• PWM
• Filter.
While in the planning stage, you will make a list of material you might need from the
hardware store.

Before you start laying things out you must understand how all the pieces work
together. For this reason I created the below diagram.



As you can see above the flash chip goes in the vehicle. Next you have the tank. The
bottom connector on the tank carries the water to the bottom connector on the HHO cell
(Black Line). You will install a check valve in this line, and also you will install your quick
drain near the low connector on the HHO cell. Also you want the tank (reservoir) higher
than the cell. “Yes, this can be a small difference, but the bottom of the tank has to be
above the top of the cell.” When power is applied the DC voltage turns the water into
HHO Gas. The gas leaves the cell through the top connector on the cell (Red Line off the
Cell). The gas is then funneled (through hose) back into the tank; a check valve will be
installed in this line as well. Now the gas is in the tank the reason for this is to “dump”
as much moisture and electrolyte as possible back into the tank. From the tank the HHO
flows (through hose, the other red line of top of tank leading to the filter) to the line in
on the filter. The gas is then filtered, and moves out of the filter and into the engine (red
line connecting the filter to the engine). From there the engine burns the hydrogen, and
subsequently less gas!

Now, about the wiring; this is actually very easy. Two wires run off the HHO Cell (+-)
and connect to the PWM on the green and white wires (quick connectors are included);
which wire is positive and which is negative does not matter. Actually, if you switch the
wires coming off the cell (Red and Black) with the wires on the PWM (Green and white)
this cleans deposits on the cell plates, and will actually prolong the life of your cell. Now
the cell is wired to the PWM but the PWM needs power to run the cell. On your PWM you
will see a shorter black wire and the red wire that is about the same thickness as the
shorter black wire. These are the positive and negative leads to the battery. The black
goes either to the negative terminal, or you could hook it to somewhere on the frame
(since the entire body of the care is negative) as long as you have a good connection.
The red is then the positive, and gets hooked to the positive terminal of the battery. This
leaves two wires; one the really long black wire (cat5 cable) which will eventually get
hooked to the display of your PWM, and the other a skinny red wire which is a voltage
sensing wire. We will cover this one later, but you hook it to a 12 volt source that is
only on when the vehicle is running. What this does is “proves” your vehicle is running,
so that no hydrogen gas is being produced when your not using it.

Ok now that you have an understanding of how things work you can start laying things
out.



CHAPTER 4. LAYOUT
Many locations exist especially if you do not care about drilling holes.

Some of these possibilities are:

• Behind the front grille
• Under the hood, near the firewall
• Along the chassis rails (accessible from under the vehicle)
• Under the battery box, or behind the battery box
• Inside fender wells
• Inside the front bumper
• Near windshield washer reservoir
• In the trunk or rear hatchback
Or if you drive a truck or a van you could put it:

• Behind the cab
• In the truck bed
• In the cargo area
• In the rear of the vehicle inside a toolbox to disguise it
For this section however I will show exactly what I did to install it in my 2007 Mitsubishi
Spyder Eclipse GS. This way you can see step by step where and why I placed the
components. Then you can decide what information you want to use and “adjust” where
you need to.



First let’s take a look at how I laid it out and why. I put the cell behind the fog lamp in
the front bumper on the left side. It fit nicely next to the windshield washer reservoir,
and it was “low” on the car making it easy to find space for the tank above. Also, it
happened to be the biggest space I had available in the engine compartment. I wanted
the tank close to the cell (less water/electro lit mix in the system if you have to drain it),
but farther from the filter this way any water would have a harder time reaching the
filter. For these reasons I placed the filter low on the right side , there was a support
bar that runs along the back of the engine compartment, so I ran the hose coming off
the tank along that and over to the filter . Another reason for placing the filter where I
did was that the gas must enter/leave the filter before the gas can go to the air intake.
As you can see from the diagram that is the side my air intake is on. From there the
only thing left would be connecting the other end of the filter to the air intake.

Ok at this point I felt I had all the components that had to be connected by hose (tank,
cell filter) laid out pretty well, so I turned my attention to laying out the wiring
components.

Laying out the wiring is fairly straight forward. Two wires are attached to the cell (red,
Black) these get run over to the PWM where you connect them to the white and the
green (on the PWM) using the quick connectors. I placed the PWM behind the battery
and near the air intake for 4 reasons:

1. PWM is protected from water behind the battery
2. The PWM gets wired to the battery
3. I used air intake for the voltage sensing line (this gets covered in the voltage
sensing line section)
4. I wanted the CAT5 cable to be on the driver’s side (I will go over this in PWM
display)

Now that we see how I laid things out, and you probably have a reasonable
understanding of where you are going to put things, I’ll move on to mounting.



CHAPTER 5. MOUNTING
For mounting what I ended up doing was to first choose 2 or 3 components (Tank, Cell,
PWM, Filter, and the PWM Display) per weekend and install them; wire tying any loose
wires or hoses (since I was not finished) so I could use my vehicle for work/school
transportation. Then on the next weekend I cut the wire ties off and installed the rest of
the components. During this process I did make several trips to the hardware store.

A) FLASH CHIP
I will not spend much time on the flash chip because it comes with great installation
instructions in the box. I will show where I mounted it (picture below), but other than
that this one is easy

I wire tied the flash chip to a wire bundle since it was light, to keep the wire ties from
sliding I used a short piece of adhesive Velcro (as you can see under the lower zip tie).

B) MOUNTING THE CELL
“The cell can be mounted horizontally or at a slight angle. However, it is important to



orient the highest connector (when sitting on a flat surface) so it is at the highest point
possible. This allows the water level to remain high inside the cell and produce make the
maximum contact with the plates.”

When you are choosing a place consider the following:

The water reservoir tank will need to be higher than the HHO generator, as the system
uses gravity to feed the water to the cell. This can be a small amount of difference, but
the bottom of the water tank should always be higher than the top of the cell.

Now onto what I did:

To get access to the lower front bumper area to mount the cell I had to remove the front
passenger side tire. I then removed the plastic mud guard that fits all the way around
the wheel well. Before I did all of this however I was able to remove 1 of the reservoir
bolts and took it to the hardware store (For size and thread).

I also had the following tools out and ready:

1. Socket Set (Metric/Standard)
2. Open End, Box End Wrenches (Metric/Standard)
3. Drill
4. Hack Saw
5. Portable Light
This is a diagram of what I saw:



As you can see in the diagram, there were 4 factory holes, 3 of which had bolts and
were holding the windshield washer reservoir. The fourth, the low one, was empty but
threaded. I would use these to support the cell. First I took 1 of the bolts that was
supporting the reservoir out (all 3 were the same) then took a ride to the hardware
store (Home Depot/Menards) they have a bolt/nut seizer. This is just a rectangle with all
the sizes of threaded bolts/ holes, where you can try your nut/bolt and see what size
and what thread you have; mine happened to be 10mm with a 1 mm twist. Since it was
metric, and not standard (Home Depot/Menards does not have a large metric section) I
ordered (and picked up) 2 lengths of threaded rod lock washers, regular washers, and
nuts from Mc Master. I cut the threaded rod to the lengths I need (around 8 inches).
The original bolts went into the car about 1 inch, so I put a nut with lock washer about 1
inch from the end of the threaded rod. I did this for both that were aligned.

Once I had these, I had to decide how I would connect it to the cell. I had some
unistrut lying around, so I removed the center 2 bolts on the sides of the cell. I made
the unistrut longer on both sides, as you can see in the diagram, this way I had
somewhere to connect the threaded rod. Next, I got some longer bolts (washers and
lock washers also) slipped them through the unistrut and through the cell and tightened
it back down. It is worth noting that the blue cell cover is only PVC, so DO NOT OVER
tighten or it will begin to bulge and eventually break. To the bracing. I test fitted the cell
(which now had the unistrut bolted to it; it fit good, but the threaded rod seemed a little
wobbly, so I came up with 2 types of braces.

One was made of Dexion that I got at Menards. Dexion is basically an L shaped piece of
metal with holes in it every inch or 2 to mount things off of. I measured the piece I
needed, than added 2 holes. I cut along the ridge (I did this on both ends), and then I
was able to bend either end (up or down) so it lined up with the factory hole.



The next brace was the L brace. I made this out of a flat piece of 1/8 inch steel (I also
bought this at Menards). I bent it into an L shape, and drilled a hole in either end, then
bolted it to the unistrut and to the car.

The important things to take a way from this section are

1. You can substitute threaded rod for bolts (and how you accomplish this)
2. That you might have to brace the threaded rod, and that you can make
homemade braces that fit the holes you have available.

Also, it is worth mentioning that before I put my cell on the homemade mounting
platform, I already connected the hoses and wires. I fed these up into the engine
compartment so that they were out of the way, but also already attached. This way I did
not have to struggle in the tight space.

When you attach the hoses I heated them using a paint striper (you probably could use
a hair dryer but it would take longer) this made the hose more flexible and made for a
tighter fit.



C) PWM

The PWM is much easier to install than the cell. I used the same flat steal I used for the
“L” bracket. This time I cut a piece about the size of the PWM, except longer on the top
and bottom.



I started by pulling the battery out, since I decided to put it behind the battery. As
always, I removed the negative lead and then the positive, and I slid the battery out.
There was what looked like the end of a threaded bolt sticking out of the fire wall about
4 inches long. I dug through our random nuts drawer, and found a nut that would fit
(8mm). Next, I took the piece of flat steel (1/8 inch thick by about 4 inches wide and a
few inches taller than the PWM) and test fitted it. It fit, so while I had it in there I
marked where the rod hit on the piece of steel. Next, I took it out and drilled the hole. I
then made sure the hole lined up with the threaded “bolt end” that was sticking out of
the firewall. Once I was sure it fit, I took it out and put the PWM on it, and marked the
steel through the holes in the PWM plastic case. I then drilled holes in the steel. Using
very small nuts and bolts (washers and lock washers also; these were 5/32) I then
bolted the PWM to the flat steel.

Note: Although there are holes behind the wires I would not use these. You do not need
to use all the holes since the PWM is so light; however, I used the 4-5 of them.

Next, I slipped the flat steel/PWM on to the piece of threaded “bolt” (that was sticking
out of the fire wall), and used a washer; then a lock washer; then a nut, and I tightened
it down to the fire wall.



D) TANK

“The water reservoir comes in different sizes depending upon your HHO system.
Typically, it can be fit within the engine compartment; sometimes mounted flat against
the firewall, but many times next to another accessory, or at a right angle to open
areas. You will need to be able to refill your water level after every few tanks of gas, so
it’s important to make it accessible. It’s also important to mount the tank higher than
the HHO generator. It does not have to be much higher, but the bottom of the tank
should be above the top of the fuel cell. The tank can be mounted directly above the
cell, but make sure there is good ventilation, so heat does not artificially raise the
operating temperature of the water or the overall system.”



This was probably the easiest component to mount for me. There was a support bar that
ran to the back of the engine compartment. I got 2 mini clamps from Menards; these
are usually are used for electrical (so you should look in the electrical section)

Then I got 2 short lengths of 5/16 thread rod, and bent in at about a 90° (if you can’t do
this you could probably use some sort of a J bolt). I put a nut on the threaded rod and
then a lock washer, then a washer. I then slid the rod though the clamp (that was
around the support bar. After the clamp, came another washer, then a lock washer, then
a nut.



Note: Before attaching the tank to the bracket, I connected the bottom hose (the water
line) to the bottom of the tank so that I had no trouble heating and wire tying the hose
onto the fitting. Once the hose was on, I turned my attention to attaching the tank to
the bracket. I put a nut on, and then a lock washer, then a regular washer (are you
seeing a pattern?). Next, I slide the tank on, put on another regular washer, then
another lock washer, then a nut, and tightened everything up. It should also be noted
that the threaded rod might be too high to close the hood, after you tighten it
up. I took a hack saw and cut it off below where the cars hood would be when closed.
Be very careful with this so you do not scratch anything.



Things to take away from this:

That by using clamps you can avoid drilling holes in the support bar, but still have an
effective mounting platform.



E) FILTER
I will not spend too much time on this one at this point as I believe you probably are
getting into the swing of things. I opened up the right side (driver’s side) front bumper;
the same as I did the left side and evaluated what factory holes I had available to me. I
then used the threaded rod, like I did with the cell, to replace the factory bolts and to
give me something to build off of without drilling. The filter was relatively light
compared to the cell, so therefore it required a lot less bracing than the cell did. An
instruction manual can only go so far, so I would recommend taking what you hopefully
learned up to this point and putting it to work.

If you decide to mount you PWM on the driver side, and you mount something in the
front bumper (in my case the filter), before you put the tire and wheel well mud guard
back in place make sure you check out the PWM display section.

F) PWM DISPLAY
In this section I will concentrate on how to run the CAT5 cable (on the PWM) for the
display without drilling holes in the firewall.

On the driver side of the car, if/when you pull the tire and the plastic mud guard in the
wheel well (driver side front), you will be able to see a rubber dust boot with wires and
cables running toward the engine compartment, this is back toward the cars cab. This is
where the hood release cable runs to the hood release in the front of the car. I DID NOT
try to force the wire through the middle instead I notched the edge of the dust boot.
Since the dust boot is rubber, it is flexible. It is a good idea to pull/push the dust boot
toward the bundle of wires in the center of the dust boot with a screw driver. This gives
you more room to get the connector on the end of the CAT5 cable through without
making the hole larger than the cable. To help fish this through I used a fish tape, but
you could probably use just about anything stiff and skinny like a wire coat hanger bent
strait. Although, if you use a coat hanger you might want to bend the end over so that
you do not scratch/scrape and wires or paint with the sharp tip. Once you feed it
through you have to go under the dash find it, and run it to where ever you decide to
mount the display.

Note: After cutting the hole in the boot and running the wire into the cab, I took a bottle
of rubberized 3M spray (I got mine at my local auto parts store), and sprayed around
where the wire went into the dust boot to make sure no water or salt could get in. Also,
I ran the PWM display wire with other wires, or near things that I could wire tie it too.



G) VOLTAGE SENSING WIRE
To start with, I have included the below directions to ensure this installation manual is
as complete as I can make it. However, I personally do not like this solution, and we will
discuss this below.

“When selecting the best 'ignition on' power source there a many options. Think about
things on the vehicle that only receive power with the key turned to the 'ignition'
position (not 'accessory'). A simple source can sometimes be the windshield wiper
motors. This is an example finding wire and splicing your power lead onto it. You can
also inspect the fuse box with a voltmeter. Turn the key to the 'on' position, and take
readings on which fuses turn on and off with the key. You do not need much amperage
to activate a relay or solenoid. However, if you can start with higher rated fuses and
work to the smaller, you may have quicker results. There are also ways to connect the
activation wire to the oil pressure sending unit that only produces power when the
engine is running. If you have a good understanding of what we are looking for, then the
best thing to find is the power to the vehicle's fuel pump. The manufacturers design the
vehicle's fuel pump to only activate while the engine is running.”

I don’t know about the rest of you, but I felt that I did not know enough about my cars
wiring in order to cut into the wiring. Not to mention that (I would think) cutting into the
wiring would probably void your warranty. You also introduce a great spot for rust and
wire trouble (kind of like trailer wiring for those of you with trailers). I originally just
wired the voltage sensing line to the battery, and every time I turned the car on or off I
would have to pop the hood and flip the toggle switch on the PWM off or on. Needless to
say this gets old fast (and if you DON’T flip the switch every time this is unsafe)! So
here is my alternative. I got my hand on a vacuum switch. A vacuum switch turns on
when there is a vacuum, and shuts off when the vacuum goes away. I hooked the
vacuum switch’s low port to the vacuum line of the crank case. Note: anywhere there is
a vacuum present this switch will work (it comes factory set at .5 inches of water column
and you can adjust it from .2-5.0 inches of water column. If at all possible, use the
factory setting, but if needed you can adjust it down. The switch’s bust pressure is 3.5
psi (about 1423 inches of water column). My little inline 4 (2.4L) pulls about .75 to 1
inch of water column. No way you are going to break this with engine vacuum!! DO NOT
put this on the hydrogen line. It is not made for constant hydrogen use.

Wiring the Switch
This is simple you have 3 tabs on the switch; common (com), normally open (NO),
normally closed (NC). You run a wire from the positive lead on the battery to the
common (com) tab on the switch. Then you take your voltage sensing wire on the PWM,
and connect it to the normally OPEN (NO) tab. Then I put an unused connector over the
normally closed (NC) tab, just so it was not exposed, and that’s it! Wasn’t that a lot
easier than tracing and cutting into your wiring? The switch is very light, and only about
3.5 by 3.5 inches so you can mount it almost any where (anywhere you have factory



bolts that is).

If any of you who read this would like a switch please email me at
(johnsemporium@yahoo.com). In the subject line of your email put HHO all caps so I
know, and I’ll try to get back to you the same day. The company that makes them will
only sell to businesses (to the best of my knowledge), but a relative owns an AC
business, and can get them though it for our use. If we can get an order of 10 together
it figures out to about $35 per switch with shipping and everything! We can get them 1
at a time, but they will be more per switch. That’s a pretty good deal. When I went
looking I could not find any under $50 (plus S&H), and next to none without a minimum
order.

H.) CONNECT THE HHO TO THE AIR INTAKE
SYSTEM
It's important to find the 'best' connection point available for good results, and a
professional looking installation.

Generally on gasoline powered engines, we are looking for a point between the air filter
box, and the throttle body. The throttle body is a butterfly valve that opens and closes
via cables and linkage from the accelerator pedal.

The system does not require much vacuum pressure, but we do need to make sure the
HHO is being pulled into the engine, and not getting lost or dispersed beforehand. A hole
drilled into the intake system before the throttle body is the best approach. The hole can
be from 6 inches to 18 inches away depending on the amount of vacuum pressure.

Start with a test hole as close to six inches as the design of the air system will allow. If
the hole seems to provide a slight vacuum pull, both at idle and when accelerating the
engine, go ahead and increase the size of the hole to accommodate your connector
fitting.

Most modern systems are manufactured using a rubberized plastic material. This
material allows you to 'screw' the connector into the hole, usually without the need to
thread or 'tap' the hole first. A secure fit can be accomplished without the need for any
glues or adhesives.



CHAPTER 6. MIXING THE
ELECTROLYTE
SOLUTION
You’re past the hard part! Now onto the fun stuff!

“It’s very important that you use steam distilled water only. Look closely at the label.
Filtered water is not good enough. Do not use tap water, mineral water, spring water, or
purified water; it must be "steam distilled"! The proportion of potassium hydroxide to
distilled water is about 15-35%. We provide a container of 16 oz that you can use with 1
gallon of distilled water. This will last for about a dozen full tanks of gas or more. In
freezing climates you may substitute up to 1/3 of the distilled water with denatured
alcohol, such as you will find at Home Depot. Only use about 12% alcohol for temps of 0
degrees Fahrenheit and above, and 25% for areas where it gets colder. Use up to 33%
in extreme climates (but you should think about moving South!). Despite the
substitution of alcohol for water, the amount of potassium hydroxide remains the same.
Acceptable alternative catalysts are potassium carbonate or sodium hydroxide. But be
careful with these chemicals. Flush your skin with water if you come in contact with it.
Do NOT use baking soda or salt. These are not as good of a catalyst, and salt causes
chlorine gas to be produced. When filling the Reservoir, keep the water level at least 2”
from the top. If you drive on bumpy roads you may want to hold the water level even
lower. This is so water will not get into the HHO gas output hose to your filter. You
should refill the electrolyte when the level gets to within 1” from the bottom.”

“Note: To get the electrolyte flowing into the Dry- Cell(s), it may be necessary to
evacuate air in the lines. Sometimes when you fill it for the first time the water has
trouble pushing the air out of the line (or if you drain it completely for any reason). If
you uncap your drain line this helps, then when the water solution starts to flow recap it.
Otherwise you will have to disconnect the hose from the top of the HHO unit. Do this by
loosening or removing, the hose connection at the top of the cell, which will allow
gravity to feed electrolyte in from the bottom fitting. This can also be accomplished by
opening the drain line until the cell starts to fill. If water doesn't fill the cell it won't hurt
anything, but it won't make much gas until the cell gets filled with water. The symptom
will be very low amperage. To replenish the water level, add water mixed with the
electrolyte as needed.”

I recommend you first mix an initial batch of electrolyte that is on the 'weak' side, and
increase output from there.

The amount of electrolyte you add increases the conductivity of the water, and therefore
allows more current to run through it. This means high 'amps' will create more HHO, and



fewer amps will produce less.

There is an important point when tuning these systems: You are looking for the
optimum output for your engine while maintaining the lowest current draw possible.
“You will notice that as you come up to operating temperature, the draw will increase.”

“You will hear many stories of people running '50 amps' through their tiny HHO
generator. While in fact some units are designed to run this high, most will generate too
much heat, and most of the production is simply steam and not HHO gas.”

I mixed my 1st batch at about 30% KOH. This was a little strong. I would say 15%-
20% would be a pretty good start (remember this is for the ES4000).

Changing your solution
“For changing/ replacing your solution we recommend using the quick disconnect to
drain the system into a clean bucket. If the solution is clean, you can add more
electrolyte (or more water if you need to dilute it).

After running the system for a while, you may find the solution is too weak or too
strong. Also, at some point you may see discoloration appearing in the water. Some
'rusty' color is okay from mineral deposits and contaminates in the system.



CHAPTER 7. UNDERSTANDING
WHAT THE PWM IS
TELLING YOU
In this section I would like to show the different things the PWM displays and how it
effects HHO production.

As you can see in the above picture, the top 2 values (6.1 amps, 52.3%) are the ones
we need to understand for now. The number of amps is what gives your cell the “ability”
or power to make the HHO gas (no amps no gas). The percentage is the amount of time
your cell is running/ working to produce the HHO gas. This is important, here is why:

The ES4000 produces approximately 733 ml of gas at 12 amps. This means for every
amp I increase HHO production by about 61.1ml (I got this by taking the 733 divided by
the 12 amps).

So say for example your cell is running 3.2 amps and it’s running/working 100% of the
time, how much gas is it producing? To figure it out you would take the 3.2amps x



100% = 3.2 amps. Now we know that for each amp the cell produces about 61.1ml of
gas so we would take the 3.2amps x 61.1ml = 195.5ml of gas (we will round to 196ml).

Now, let’s say your cell is running 6.1 amps at about 52%. How much gas is being
produced?

Again you would take the 6.1amps x amount of time your cell’s working, in this case
52% (or .52 expressed as a decimal) = 3.17amps (we will round to 3.2). This is the
number of amps your cell would be using if it were running at 100%. So from here we
take the 3.17amps that we rounded to 3.2 and multiply it by the 61.1ml: 3.2 x 61.1
=195.5ml (we will round to 196ml)

O Look the cell produces just as much gas at 6.1 amps at 52% as it does at 3.2amps at
a 100%.

Why is this relevant you ask? Well ok I’ll tell you (You caught me on a good day)

Well most of the time you will not be running at 100%. It’s great in theory, but
impractical in the real world. So, in your first batch you mix up then you go out and you
test it for a couple of tanks and find out “Oh mine likes 8.1 amps at 55%”, or whatever.
Well, when you mix up a new batch and you’re off a little how do you compensate? With
figuring out how much HHO gas you need the first time, you then can figure out how to
adjust and not just take a shot in the dark. Also, when the weather changes your unit
might run less/more at a given amperage (the amperage will remain constant because
the PWM is controlling the amount of runtime of the cell to keep it constant), and if not
adjusted your gas mileage will suffer. Now for those of you with an ES4000 like me (or
any unit that puts out about 733ml at about 12amps) you’re lucky. Not like you won the
lotto or anything, but lucky all the same. I created a line graph that shows the
correlation between amperage and runtime (expressed as a percentage just like on the
PWM display) and the correlating gas output.



If you have trouble viewing the above table, you can go to view to zoom to 200% and it
is easily read.



CHAPTER 8. CHECKING YOUR
SYSTEM
Many obvious points should now be inspected:

Are all the fittings secure and leak free?
Recognize all the connectors are high grade fittings that can be removed and replaced
with standard plumbing Teflon tape.

Are all the wires securely attached, and are they running
cool?
Loose wires will cause heat and shorts. Check all your crimp connections and confirm the
wires are not dangling loose or touching parts of the vehicle that can melt or damage
them.

Review your ignition on choice, and any electronics.
Make sure your system only comes on when you want, and not when somebody puts the
key in the 'accessory' position to listen to the radio.

Can you notice any difference at idle?
By switching the system 'on' after the engine is started, you can notice a difference in
the engine's idle speed, or it becoming smoother. I did not notice this personally.

Do you notice a power increase?
I did notice this one, it had more power “off the line”, as well as increasing the top
speed by 10%.

Are you checking the water level?
Ideally the water level should be kept between half and two thirds full. If it's too high,
you run the risk of sending water into the filter, and when it's on the low side, your HHO
production may decrease.

The easiest way to maintain your electrolyte is to mix your 'recipe' into a gallon jug of
distilled water and keep this in the garage or in the vehicles rear cargo area. This allows
for easy topping off and keeping the solution strength consistent over time. I have found



that the KOH eventually dries out or cracks the plastic of the thin gallon water jugs. I
would recommend storing it long term in glass or a chemical safe plastic container. Also,
if your regions climate changes drastically from the summer to the winter months you
may have to add more KOH during the winter to get the same amperage that you had
during the summer.

Is the lid of the tank screwed on tightly?
Failure to screw down the lid to the reservoir properly can allow your HHO gas to
escape.

Make it a point to always screw down that lid firmly.

Expected mileage gains
“We expect that to be at least 25%, and as high as 50% gains or more. 35% is a
reasonable average expectation.”

Is your system giving you next to no mileage gains?
This could be caused by many things; below I have listed a few. I had the spark plug
issue. I would recommend checking a few of the basic ones like plugs and filters.

Old/bad oxygen sensors, clogged EGR circuits, dirty throttle bodies, ignition components
that are not up to par (defective spark plugs), partially clogged catalytic converters,
defective sensors, clogged air filters and more. The vehicle usually runs like normal with
no codes, and the mileage typical for that vehicle. Consult you maintenance manual and
see what you have not done that the manufacture recommends.



CHAPTER 9. PROGRAMMING THE
PWM
To do this, turn on the engine and let it idle. This will activate the control circuit, and
allow the PWM to power up. This will also light up the display/controller unit. You'll see
some statistics for your PWM on the screen after a short intro. Press the knob once to
enter setup. Now you can turn the knob to cycle through the different functions that can
be set up. When you get to one you want to change, press the knob once, and you'll
enter that setup screen. Turn the knob to make any changes you want, and then press
the knob again to accept the setting. Some screens have multiple settings, and you turn
the knob to make any needed changes, and press the knob to accept each setting.
Finally, none of your changes will remain in memory unless you turn the knob to the
final screen that is labeled, "Exit". You must press the knob at this screen for your
changes to be recorded in memory. Now lets go through the screens:

1. Lifetime timer. There is nothing to set for this one, but it will show you the
number of hours the PWM has been running. Press the knob again to exit this
screen.
2. PWM Constant Amps. Use this screen to set the maximum amps that the PWM
will allow. This should be set for 12 amps for 1 cell systems, and 24 amps for 2
cell systems. We do not recommend putting any more than 12 amps per cell, as
overheating can occur and damage the cell.
3. Volt Sensing. This item has several settings. The first is "Y" or "N", and sets
whether volt sensing is activated. If not activated, the system will not shut down
on low voltages, and will only shut down if turned off by the switch, or if 12 volts
are removed from the control wire. If "Y" is selected then the next 2 screens will
allow you to adjust the On and Off voltages. Start out with 13.5 volts for your "on
voltage", and 12 volts for your "off voltage". You may need to adjust these later,
but this will be a good starting point.
4. Level alarm. This is a new function that will cause the display to sound an alarm
when the level gets too low. It requires some additional setup of your reservoir,
and is not yet fully implemented. For now, set this to "N".
5. Calib. amp meter. This is used to calibrate the amp meter. Before pushing the
button on this setting, you must disconnect the cells from the PWM (just unplug
them). We want 0 amps to be passing through the PWM. Then press the button;
the controller will then calibrate itself.
6. Exit. If any changes are made in the above steps, you must hit end.

This will cause your settings to be saved. When in normal run mode, the display shows
some key operating statistics. The top line, labeled "A" and "D", stands for amperage
and duty cycle. You will see these values in real time to the right. The next line has "V"
and "R", and these show system voltage and fan revolutions.



CHAPTER 10. CREDITS
For this manual I drew upon the original manuals information. Then edited, altered, add,
and changed it. In this manner I hope I have provided you with a complete and
comprehensive (at least for the most part) guide to HHO installation.

I hope you have found this helpful in your HHO endeavor. If it has I hope you would
consider making a small donation. I would greatly appreciate it this manual did take
quite a bit of time, and I will do my best to use all donations in my effort to lessen
America’s dependence on foreign oil. If you would like to make a donation you can do it
through paypal with or without an account. If you have an account simply log in and
click the send money tab (next to My Account at the top of the page) and then send it to
the following email: Johnkim2jl@yahoo.com If you don’t have a account go to
www.paypal.com and click on where it says transfer or send money at the bottom of the
page. When it asks you for the email you wish to send it to, use the email mentioned
above.


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