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TEN LITTLE CHOCOLATE FACTORIES
                                                      A Study of the Passion Behind Chocolate Making and Chocolate Eating




TEN LITTLE CHOCOLATE FACTORIES


Copyright © 2010 by Lauren Baier
First Edition printed 2010.


Printed in the United States of America


Minneapolis College of Art & Design
2501 Stevens Avenue
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55404


Designed by Lauren Baier
Content by Lauren Baier and www.ChocolateSource.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS



 1 Introduction

 3 Bean-to-Bar Process

 5 Interviews

27 Glossary of Chocolate Terminology

31 Index of Chocolate Makers
INTRODUCTION
I have a fascination with candy stores. The cheerful tinkle of the bell when
you walk in, the shelves lined with jars filled with brightly colored sugary
baubles, the sound of metal scoops plunging into jellybeans, and the thick
smell of homemade fudge in the air. But it is not only my personal fondness
for these details that attracts me to the notion of candy stores. It is the joy
that others experience that keeps me interested. I have a theory that any
person can be going through any situation, but still crack a smile while in a
candy store. It just can’t be helped.

As someone who is interested in studying and designing human experiences,
it makes sense why this would be interesting to me. I am on a continual
quest to find the perfect candy store and visit as many as I can. The funny
thing is, I’m not even that big of a candy fan. Sure I like it, and I have my
favorites, but I definitely like candy stores more than I like candy itself.

The idea for this project stemmed from this idea about certain experiences
affecting people in emotional ways. Chocolate affects people in a similar
manner to the way candy shops do, perhaps on an even more personal level.
Everyone has an opinion on chocolate. Whether they hate it, love it, or can’t
function without it, everyone feels something about it. I was curious about
this deep-running passion, so I began asking people about their favorite
chocolate. It got me thinking about the many different types of chocolate
that exist. Aside from the many different flavor combinations that exist,
there are also several classes of chocolate. Beyond the standard Hershey
bar, there are also more high-quality choices. Local, Fair-Trade, Organic, etc.
There are a multitude of options.




                                                                                  1
BEAN-TO-BAR PROCCESS
    Through my investigation, I learned about a particular process of chocolate
    making that I had never heard of before. This process is called “Bean to Bar.”
    What this means is that the chocolate maker starts with the original ingre-
    dient, cacao beans, and turns them into finished chocolate products like
    bars, drinking chocolate, confections, and other tasty treats. Although this
    may be the way you imagine all chocolate making to be done, sadly that
    is not the case. At the time of publication, there are around one hundred
    chocolate manufacturers who use this process. The majority fall into two
    categories; those who are multi-million dollar corporations, and those who
    have been bought out by multi-million dollar corporations. The remaining
    few are those I have chosen to focus on.

    Some of these chocolate makers are based in countries where cacao is
    grown. They harvest the beans themselves and are thus actually known as
    “Tree to Bar” versus “Bean to Bar.”

    Surprisingly, although the Unites States is not necessarily regarded for its
    chocolate production, it is the country with the highest number of Bean
    to Bar chocolate manufacturers. At this time there are around twenty in
    operation.




2                                                                                    3
INTERVIEWS
    I wanted to find a way to capture the passion behind the people who make
    chocolate, these “experience designers” of sorts. Bean-to-bar chocolate
    makers seem to be even more emotionally invested in their chosen art
    form than the standard producer of chocolate. There may be a personal tie,
    a social belief, a political agenda, or a multitude of other hidden facets to
    their reasoning. I decided the only way to learn about how people feel about
    creating this object of desire would be to simply ask them about it.

    The following interviews were conducted over a three month period with
    bean-to-bar chocoalte makers from around the world. Over twenty were
    contacted, spanning twelve different countries. The special group that chose
    to participate became my ten little chocolate factories.

    I asked each chocolate maker to answer the same set of four questions in
    writing, through email. Although the questions were the same, the answers
    differed widely.




4                                                                                   5
AH CACAO REAL CHOCOLATE - MEXICO
    NAME: MÓNICA TELLO
    JOB TITLE: DIRECTOR OF GUEST EXPERIENCE




      1) How did you get into your profession?

         A combination of things all came together at the same time that
         myself and my husband to initiate a Mexican chocolate company:

                  A serious love of chocolate
                  A desire to introduce more people to the joys of REAL
                  chocolate made with fine tasting cacao
                                                                               4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                  A desire to share the story of chocolate and cacao:
                                                                                  you are offering to society?
                  where it comes from, who grows it, its prehispanic his-
                  tory, etc. and establish a deeper connection between           We started this proyect with a dream of helping conserve nature
                  the people who sweat in the cacao plantations and              by creating value from it, in this case by cultivating high quality
                  those who enjoy the exquisite taste of fine cacao              cacao which grows below the forest canopy. By expanding the
                                                                                 demand for high quality cacao products we increase the forested
      2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?                      areas in Mexico while simultaneously improving the quality of
                                                                                 life of the cacao producers.
         That I have the opportunity to serve people from all over the
         world and most of them leave with a chocolate or coffee in their        We also create jobs in Mexico along the entire value chain, which
         hands and a smile on their face.                                        includes our own Ah Cacao Chocolate Café stores. The consumers
                                                                                 of our products receive the health benefits of cacao with none of
      3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?                      the undesireable ingredients added by most mass market choco-
                                                                                 late producers (some of our products have no sugar, for example
         In our case it’s because we wanted a fine tasting 100% Mexican          and are sweetened only by natural fruits), in fact we consider
         product and producing ourselves from carefully selected beans was       that the real “product”(or benefit) we offer our consumers is
         the only way to achieve the quality and type of product we desired.     “natural well-being”.




6                                                                                                                                                      7
CHOCOLATES FÉNIX - ARGENTINA
    NAME: JOSE RODRIGO SALGADO
    JOB TITLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR


      1) How did you get into your profession?
         My family started making chocolate in 1889 when my great-
         grandfather built his first cocoa mill in the Spanish Galicia back
         in 1889. Since then the family continued with this profession.
         Our houses are located just beside and above the factory so even         origins. When the production area does not have a standard es-
         when being a child you start to appreciate the flavors, smells           tablished then you must travel personally to the place and make
         and rythms of the business. Naturally, I grew up knowing and             sure their fermentation and drying processes are done correctly.
         yearning to become part of this tradition. But the family’s policy
         is to make members as prepared as possible before receiving any          Secondly, buying the bean allows you to explore different flavor
         responsibility. I therefore studied my Engineering degree and            profiles, varieties, etc when bringing beans from different places
         afterwards took an MBA in Finance abroad before getting into             or origins. This can get as specific as buying beans only from a
         the decission making team.                                               single farm or plantation. Only small and medium manufacturers
                                                                                  can do this. Bigger ones find this small volumes not interesting
                                                                                  for their scale.
      2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?
         Processing a natural food which is healthy and gives people joy          Thirdly, buying the bean can give you a social and peaceful ex-
         when consuming is definitively a “child’s dream”. Besides, the           perience since you get to know the people you are buying from,
         need to supply the main ingredient from such places as Bolivian          the producers. In this way you can avoid buying cocoa that could
         amazonia, Brazilian Bahia or Ecuador’s Esmeraldas, gives me the          be obtained from child-labor activity, unfair trading practices
         opportunity to learn cultures, create human relationships, etc           or even slavery. We make sure to know exactly from where our
         that not every job offers.                                               cocoa comes.

                                                                                  Lastly, chosing to buy the bean can give you the possibility to buy
      3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
                                                                                  as natural production as possible, knowing which fertilization and
         It is not actually really a choice. We have been doing it that way       pesticides policy are used, etc.
         for more than 120 years, so why change? If a morning I woke up
         and the cocoa bean roasting smell does not reach my bed , then I       4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
         will feel half the thing is missing.                                      you are offering to society?

         Choosing to start from bean gives you many advantages:                   As I told you before I really enjoy what I am doing. People smile
         Firstly you can control the quality. It is not the same to buy an        at you when your profession is in discussion. People feel happy
         ASE (Arriba Summer Epoca) to an ASSS (Arriba Summer Superior             to talk about it, People feel interested to know more about your
         Selected) arriba bean from Ecuador. Industrial liquor you may            chocolate and how it is made. So why look into another job? We
         buy from multinationals is most probably made from the first.            are offering to society a historical food, healthy, an experience
         But if you want to really assure a good flavor profile you have to       to develop our own tastes, the possibility to create an inmense
         get at least an ASSS bean classification. This applies to almost all     range of other products with it . . .




8                                                                                                                                                       9
GRENADA CHOCOLATE COMPANY - GRENADA
     NAME: MOTT GREEN
     JOB TITLE: DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER



                                           1) How did you get into your profession?

                                              I lived in the woods here in Grenada in a bamboo house I built
                                              to grow food and live self sufficiently. Fell in love with cocoa
                                              trees and kitchen-style processing of hot chocolate. Developed
                                              dream of making fine eating dark chocolate with a cooperative or
                                              organic cocoa farmers. Been pursuing that for the past 10 years.


                                           2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?

                                              I enjoy making a delicious food that people enjoy so much and at
                                              the same time enjoy tinkering/designing the machinery and bits
                                              and pieces. Also a thrill to be on our cocoa farms a lot and direct
                                              the agricultural part of the project.

                                           3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
                                              I wanted to make a chocolate that was farmer-made at the farm
                                              because I believe this is the only true way to make sure the value
                                              of fine chocolate is shared with everyone who produces it includ-
                                              ing all the farmers.

                                           4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                              you are offering to society?

                                              I am helping Grenadian society by helping to encourage bringing
                                              back farming, this time with a sense of pride and in a more lucra-
                                              tive way. I am offering the whole world the chance to eat the
                                              most delicious dark chocolate with the purest ethics behind its
                                              production. Also, our project seems to inspire people in general.




10                                                                                                                  11
MALMÖ CHOKLADFABRIK - SWEDEN
      NAME: PETER HANSSON
      JOB TITLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR



                                         1) How did you get into your profession?

                                            I worked in the mobile telephone industry for many years and
                                            traveled a lot in cocoa producing countries. The last few years
                                            we lived in France, Belgium and the Netherlands where my wife
                                            learned how to make pralines. My family bought an old property
                                            which happened to be a chocolate factory and we felt it was time
                                            to move back home to Sweden and start a chocolate business
                                            after 11 years abroad.


                                         2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?



     “ IT WOULD BE MUCH WERE NOT
       MAKE MONEY IF WE
                        EASIER TO
                                            Taste, flavors, sounds, texture, colors. Also the fact that almost
                                            every person likes chocolate or at least has an opinion about it helps.


                                         3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?

       MAKING OUR OWN CHOCOLATE.     ”      Crazy idea, which we regretted many times. In Sweden, we are
                                            the only bean-to-bar maker and we understand now why. It is
                                            really hard work! Still, we think it is funny to be bean-to-bar. It
                                            would be much easier to make money, if we were not making our
                                            own chocolate.

                                         4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                            you are offering to society?

                                            Our main challenge is education. We are running chocolate
                                            tasting event almost every day, where we educate people on
                                            the topic of chocolate nad have a tasting afterwards. There is so
                                            much rubbish products in Sweden which people think is choco-
                                            late. Our mission is to educate as many people as possible.




12                                                                                                                    13
ORIGINAL HAWAIIAN CHOCOLATE COMPANY - USA
     NAME: PAM & BOB COOPER
     JOB TITLE: OWNERS


       1) How did you get into your profession?                                2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?

         In 1997 we accomplished our dream to live where the mountains            It has truly been an adventure from the beginning and no two
         meet the sea, by purchasing a “Cocoa Plantation” on the Big              days are ever the same. We love having people visit and do tours
         Island of Hawaii. There were no plans to farm as we had a won-           by appointment. It would be irresponsible for us not to share our
         derful caretaker that took care of the six acres we’d purchased          knowledge and experience and offering viewing of the process
         here for our semi-retirement. The cacao trees had just come              from tree to bar. This is the only place in our country where
         to fruition and they surely had a “life of their own”. As this is a      cacao trees will grow. We have people come from all over the
         very new crop for the State of Hawaii, we decided to encourage           world to see the cacao trees and our factory.
         others to grow cacao, but it would be necessary for us to create
         a market for the niche signature chocolate that would have to
                                                                               3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
         be produced to sustain such an industry here. Sugarcane and
         pineapple have run their course here and small family farmers            Our process is actually tree to bar and everything is done right
         needed a new crop to diversity their farms. Thus, we set about           here on the farm. We do buy wet cocoa beans from a number of
         hiring a consultant, had beans tested, transformed our ag-shed           growers (who we encouraged to plant) whose trees are coming
         into the smallest chocolate factory ever and so began America’s          to fruition now that completes a vertically integrated industry
         first homegrown and produced single origin chocolate.                    right here!


                                                                               4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                                                                  you are offering to society?

                                                                                  We offer and are giving back by supporting: local farmers, local
                                                                                  retailers (we have approx. 60 and growing), Hawaii Regional Cui-
                                                                                  sine Chefs, educational tours for senior citizens, school children,
                                                                                  college students) and now the agritourism industry. We are also
                                                                                  proud to be part of the American “Can Do!” mentality.




14                                                                                                                                                      15
PACARI CHOCOLATE - ECUADOR
     NAME: SANTIAGO PERALTA
     JOB TITLE: FOUNDER/OWNER




                                                                                “ EVERYDAY I COME TO
                                                                                  WORK EXCITED ABOUT
                                                                                  WHAT WE ARE DOING. ”
       1) How did you get into your profession?

          Growing up with parents who appreciated the natural world, I
          decided that it would be wonderful to build a company based on
          some aspect of natural products. Being from Ecuador, which is
          blessed with one of the best cacao beans in the world, I thought
          this would be an interesting path.

          For several years, my wife Carla and I began selling bulk cacao     3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
          products in Europe and the US, and then developed a range of
                                                                                As Ecuadorians, we are able to source the best of the best beans
          couverture for some European chocolate companies. It was very
                                                                                that grow in our country, and. This enables us to work directly
          well-regarded, and so we decided to make finished product under
                                                                                with the cacao growers, providing training and capacity building
          our own brand, Pacari Chocolate. We wanted to create a high
                                                                                in how to achieve organic cacao of high quality. We get the qual-
          quality, organic chocolate that was made in our country, and
                                                                                ity of beans we need, and the growers get a higher price for their
          show that Ecuador not only has the arriba nacional bean, but that
                                                                                superior cacao.
          we can produce an exceptional product ourselves. This not only is
          a matter of pride for our country, but also helps to keep more of
          the jobs and profits where it counts.                               4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                                                                 you are offering to society?

       2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?                    I got my degree in law, thinking that I would work to promote
                                                                                justice. After a while I was disillusioned, realizing that law was
          Making a quality product that we all can be proud of, and experi-     not the same thing as justice. I decided I could have a direct im-
          menting with new ways to work with the cacao are the best parts       pact by creating a socially responsible company, which supports
          of making artisanal chocolate. We are a small, creative group         local communities and the environment, as well as the health of
          dedicated to quality and innovation, and of course promoting          our final customers. Every day I come to work excited about what
          organic agriculture.                                                  we are doing and have yet to do.




16                                                                                                                                                   17
RED STAR CHOCOLATE - ENGLAND
     NAME: DUFFY SHEARDOWN
     JOB TITLE: CHOCOLATE MAKER


                                    1) How did you get into your profession?

                                       After 25 years making racing cars I needed a change. I heard a
                                       radio programme stating that “Only Cadburys” make chocolate
                                       in the UK from beans - everyone else makes confections using
                                       couverture that they buy in. My background and arrogance led
                                       me to say “how hard can it be” and when yet another race team
                                       collapsed beneath me I decided to find out. I spent a year finding
                                       equipment and testing suppliers and recipes and then opened my
                                       own factory producing bars of chocolate made from beans.

                                    2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?
                                       I have total control over all aspects of the process and if anything
                                       goes wrong it is down to me. I also get to test a lot of chocolate
                                       and hope to make the best chocolate in the world - one day.


                                    3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
                                       If you want to control the taste of the final chocolate it makes
                                       sense to have control of as many of the processes as you can. I’m
                                       not a farmer so I can’t grow the beans and I can’t dry and ferment
                                       them either. Everything else I can and do control.

                                    4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                       you are offering to society?

                                       I chose to start this business because I can’t see myself in a
                                       “regular” job. I don’t respect authority particularly and I’m used to
                                       operating with a huge degree of autonomy that I wasn’t prepared
                                       to give up.

                                       I don’t think I am offering society anything other than good choc-
                                       olate. My web-site will have some information about the farm-
                                       ers and how they live and I will tithe my profits to return some
                                       money to the farming communities. I also pay extra for Fairtrade
                                       and good quality beans. Maybe I can help the cacau-growing
                                       farmers in some small way to have a less meagre existence.




18                                                                                                             19
SOMA CHOCOLATEMAKER - CANADA
     NAME: DAVID CASTELLAN
     JOB TITLE: CHOCOLATE MAKER




                                                                                    “ IT’S MORE LIKE LAB.
                                                                                                     AN
                                                                                                         ”
       1) How did you get into your profession?

          I got into chocolate from the pastry / baking end. My mother had            EXPERIMENTAL
          a bakery and I grew up baking. In the mid eighties I worked with
          a few European pastry chefs that really taught me how to make
          a proper ganache, temper etc. I did a stage in Cortina D’ampezzo
          where we often used a two roll granite refiner and a small coat-
          ing pan. The machines added another dimension to the work,
          using them required another set of skills but there was an artistry
          too, especially using the coating pan. I continued with chocolate
          after a long stint as a pastry chef in various restaurants.
                                                                                3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
                                                                                  It is a magical and yet technical process that is appealing in that
       2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?
                                                                                  there is so much to learn and yet it is so simple. In essence is it
          There is a huge amount of freedom especially because we sell            just roasting, grinding and creating an emulsion of cocoa beans
          most of our chocolate in our store. It is more like an experimen-       and sugar. but in that there are a million variables. Exploring the
          tal lab. I can work on any crazy chocolate idea and because we          variables is the job!
          have a steady clientele, it is on the shelf and purchased possibly
          on the same day. In the wholesale chocolate scenario, an idea
                                                                                4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
          would have to be worked out with sales in mind as well as a lot of
                                                                                   you are offering to society?
          money spent on packaging bar code etc. It takes the fun out of it.
          I have the pleasure of working with Cynthia my wife and partner.        We hope to offer an interesting new way to appreciate on ancient
          We work well together and as she does thedesign/packaging, we           substance. As far as our place in society, any way to do this in a small,
          can come up with products on the fly.                                   artesan, community oriented and non-corporate way is beneficial...




20                                                                                                                                                            21
TCHO - USA
     NAME: GRACE ERICKSON
     JOB TITLE: PRODUCTION MANAGER


                                     1) How did you get into your profession?

                                        I graduated college with a degree in Business Operations Man-
                                        agement and had my heart set on candy manufacturing. The Bay
                                        Area had numerous chocolate companies at that time - See’s,
                                        Schmidt, Scharffenberger, Guittard, Ghirardelli, Blommer, et al. I
                                        applied to all and ended up with a job in Production Planning at
                                        Ghirardelli Chocolate Company.

                                     2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?
                                        I enjoy the continuous movement and problem-solving aspects of
                                        my job. Manufacturing is exciting and ever-changing — it’s where
                                        the life of a product begins.

                                     3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?
                                        TCHO chooses the bean-to-bar process because it enables a com-
                                        pany to control quality at the highest level. We choose the beans
                                        we want and we fly out out of the country to roast our beans to
                                        our desired specifications and ship the milled liquor to our factory
                                        to finish the rest of the process. If we did not control the entire
                                        process from bean-to-bar then our options would be limited to
                                        the couverture that is available on the open market, which is not
                                        customized to our specifications.

                                     4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
                                        you are offering to society?

                                        I choose this job because I love working with chocolate and
                                        building those products for the marketplace.




22                                                                                                             23
THEO CHOCOLATE - USA
     NAME: NATHAN ROYSTON
     JOB TITLE: PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT


       1) How did you get into your profession?

          I always loved chocolate ever since I was a little kid and that was       It also means we have control over driving innovation and
          a love that never left me. When I moved to Seattle about four             maintaining our own quality, because we are actually doing the
          years ago and found out there was an actual chocolate factory in          manufacturing, each step of the way. It is a source of great pride
          the city, I went to check it out. I was really inspired after getting     for me and all the employees here that we get to have a hand in
          a tour of the facility and asked if there were opportunities to vol-      making something truly unique.
          unteer for a few hours a week. I was offered a job a couple days
          later and it felt like an opportunity that was too good to pass up.
                                                                                  4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think
          I have been working here ever since.
                                                                                     you are offering to society?

                                                                                    At this point, even though chocolate manufacturing is not what
       2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most?
                                                                                    I intended to do in my life, the excitement I receive from work-
          At this point Theo is only about 50 employees, which means that           ing for a small, growing company is more than enough to keep
          you really get to feel the impact of your work. This can be both          me at this job. I have seen huge changes here over the past few
          positive or negative but is always a great motivator. It is easy to       years and can’t wait to see what happens next. Even jobs that
          see when you make mistakes but also easy to see the effects of            may offer more pay, or fewer hours, could not offer the environ-
          your successes. Also, the small number of employees means that            ment that Theo offers right now. I feel like I am a large part of
          you can be involved in anything that you put your energy into             something that is growing and has the potential to be successful.
          whether it be developing new products, participating in events            As far as social contribution, working for a company that have
          outside of work, or improving internal processes.                         social and environmental sustainability components in their mis-
                                                                                    sion statement, helps keep me motivated to do a good job. What
                                                                                    Theo is trying to do by empowering consumers with chocolate
       3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do?                        knowledge, and helping farmers at origin is very rare in an
                                                                                    industry that is traditionally not transparent on any level and not
          One of the interesting things about chocolate manufacturing in            concerned with social and environmental issues.
          general is how few people are actually making chocolate from
          bean to bar. There are a small handful of manufactures that


                                                                                  “ CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURING
          supply chocolate to the world.

          Being able to produce chocolate from bean to bar gives us so
          much more control over the type of chocolate we’d like to make.
                                                                                    IS NOT WHAT I INTENDED TO

                                                                                                     ”
          For Theo in particular, we get the option of sourcing Organic and
          Fair Trade cocoa beans, something no other American chocolate
          maker is currently doing.                                                 DO WITH MY LIFE.



24                                                                                                                                                        25
GLOSSARY OF CHOCOLATE TERMINOLOGY
     A list of terms related to chocolate making and chocolate eating.



     Bittersweet
     Bittersweet chocolate, not to be confused with unsweetened or semisweet
     chocolate, is primarily used for baking. A slightly sweetened dark chocolate,
     it has many uses such as making shiny chocolate curls as garnishes or rich,
     dense chocolate cakes. Both it and semisweet chocolate are required by the
     U.S. FDA to contain at least 35% chocolate liquor.


     Cacao
     A term used for a cacao plant but also for the unprocessed product (pods) of
     the cacao plant.


     Chocolate Liquor
     Chocolate liquor is made up of the finely ground nib of the cocoa bean. This
     is technically not yet chocolate. This type of chocolate is also known as un-
     sweetened chocolate and is also referred to cocoa mass or cocoa liquor.


     Cocoa Beans
     Source of all chocolate and cocoa, cocoa beans are found in the pods (fruit)
     of the cocoa tree, an evergreen cultivated mainly within twenty degrees
     north or south of the equator.


     Cocoa Butter
     Cocoa butter is a complex, hard fat made up mostly of triglycerides, it re-
     mains firm at room temperature, then it contracts as it cools and solidifies.
     It is ideal for molding.


     Cocoa Pods
     Between the blossoms of the permanently flowering cocoa tree we can see
     fruit at various stages of development. The egg-shaped
     cocoa pods measure between 6 and 12 inches and hang from the trunk and
     the largest branches. Each fruit contains between 30 and 40 beans of about
     1 cm (about 0.5 inch) in length.




26                                                                                   27
Cocoa Powder                                                                      Nibs
     The result of extracting cocoa butter from cocoa paste. Cocoa powder is           The kernels of coc0a beans are usually called ‘nibs’ and are the basic ingredi-
     used to prepare chocolate drinks or to sprinkle truffles and chocolate tarts.     ent of which chocolate is made. Sometimes, nibs are used to add texture to
                                                                                       chocolate bars or chocolate deserts.

     Conching
                                                                                       Organic
     The processing step called ‘conching’ reduces the moistness of the cocoa
                                                                                       The word ‘organic’ refers to how these food products are produced. Organic
     mass and removes the volatile acids. At the same time, this step allows for
                                                                                       production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replen-
     specific aromas and smoothness to be associated with chocolate. Conching
                                                                                       ishes the fertility of the soil. Organic foods are produced without the use
     is the process where the chocolate is “plowed” back and forth through the
                                                                                       of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. They are processed without artificial
     liquid chocolate which smoothes the chocolate and rounds out the flavor,
                                                                                       ingredients, preservatives or irradiation. Organic chocolate contains a mini-
     essential for the flavor, the texture and the overall quality of the chocolate.
                                                                                       mum of 95% naturally grown and certified raw materials.

     Couverture                                                                        Semisweet and Sweet Chocolate
     Couverture is a term used to describe professional-quality coating chocolate
                                                                                       Prepared by blending chocolate liquid with varying amounts of sweetening
     with a high percentage of cocoa butter, at least 32%, and as high as 39%
                                                                                       and added cocoa butter. Flavorings may be included. After processing, the
     for good quality couverture. The extra cocoa butter allows the chocolate to
                                                                                       chocolate is cooled. Sweet chocolate is usually molded into bars. Semisweet
     form a thinner coating shell than non-couverture chocolate.
                                                                                       chocolate is also available in bar form, but most popularly as pieces. This is
                                                                                       the generic term. Different manufacturers use different names such as blocs,
     Dark Chocolate                                                                    squares, bits, etc. Chocolate is also granulated and known as “shot,” used for
                                                                                       decoration by candy makers and confectioners.
     Dark chocolate must contain a minimum of 43% cocoa to be called “dark”
     according to European norms. A “70% cocoa chocolate” is considered quite
     dark while 85% and even 88% cocoa dark chocolates have become quite               Tempering
     popular for dark chocolate lovers.                                                Tempering is the process of bringing the chocolate to a certain temperature
                                                                                       whereby the cocoa butter reaches its most stable crystal form. There are
                                                                                       several forms in which the butter can crystallize, only one of which ensures
     Lecithin
                                                                                       the hardness, shrinking force and gloss of the finished product after it has
     A natural product extracted from the soy bean that is used as a thinner in        cooled. If the chocolate is melted in the normal way (between 40 and 45°C)
     chocolate. During the manufacturing of chocolate, lecithin controls flow          and then left to cool to working temperature, the finished product will not
     properties through the reduction of viscocity.                                    be gloss. Proper tempering, followed by proper cooling produces a nice shine
                                                                                       and good eating properties
     Milk Chocolate
     The best known kind of eating chocolate. Milk chocolate is made by combin-        White Chocolate
     ing the chocolate liquid, extra cocoa butter, milk or cream, sweetening, and      White chocolate is not considered real chocolate, because although it has
     flavorings.                                                                       cocoa butter (at least 32% to be considered of good quality), it does not
                                                                                       have chocolate liquor. White chocolate is made from cocoa butter, milk,
                                                                                       sugar and vanilla.


                                                                                       “ChocolateSource.com About Chocolate - Glossary.” The premier source for gourmet chocolate. Order Gourmet
                                                                                       Chocolate on-line: Belgian, American and French, baking chocolate, truffles, gift box of Nirvana Chocolates, bars
                                                                                       from Callebaut, Cote D’Or, Valrhona, Scharffen Berger, chocolate spread and many other items. <http://www.
                                                                                       chocolatesource.com/glossary/>.



28                                                                                                                                                                                                         29
INDEX OF CHOCOLATE MAKERS


     Ah Cacao Real Chocolate
     www.ahcacao.com

     Chocolates Fénix
     www.chocolatesfenix.com

     Grenada Chocolate Company
     www.grenadachocolate.com

     Malmö Chokladfabrik
     www.malmochokladfabrik.se

     Original Hawaiian Chocolate Company
     www.ohcf.us

     Pacari Chocolate
     www.pacarichocolate.com

     Red Star Chocolate
     www.redstarchocolate.co.uk

     SOMA Chocolatemaker
     www.somachocolate.com

     TCHO
     www.tcho.com

     Theo Chocolate
     www.theochocolate.com




30                                         31

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Ten Little Chocolate Factories

  • 1.
  • 2. TEN LITTLE CHOCOLATE FACTORIES A Study of the Passion Behind Chocolate Making and Chocolate Eating TEN LITTLE CHOCOLATE FACTORIES Copyright © 2010 by Lauren Baier First Edition printed 2010. Printed in the United States of America Minneapolis College of Art & Design 2501 Stevens Avenue Minneapolis, Minnesota 55404 Designed by Lauren Baier Content by Lauren Baier and www.ChocolateSource.com
  • 3. TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 Introduction 3 Bean-to-Bar Process 5 Interviews 27 Glossary of Chocolate Terminology 31 Index of Chocolate Makers
  • 4. INTRODUCTION I have a fascination with candy stores. The cheerful tinkle of the bell when you walk in, the shelves lined with jars filled with brightly colored sugary baubles, the sound of metal scoops plunging into jellybeans, and the thick smell of homemade fudge in the air. But it is not only my personal fondness for these details that attracts me to the notion of candy stores. It is the joy that others experience that keeps me interested. I have a theory that any person can be going through any situation, but still crack a smile while in a candy store. It just can’t be helped. As someone who is interested in studying and designing human experiences, it makes sense why this would be interesting to me. I am on a continual quest to find the perfect candy store and visit as many as I can. The funny thing is, I’m not even that big of a candy fan. Sure I like it, and I have my favorites, but I definitely like candy stores more than I like candy itself. The idea for this project stemmed from this idea about certain experiences affecting people in emotional ways. Chocolate affects people in a similar manner to the way candy shops do, perhaps on an even more personal level. Everyone has an opinion on chocolate. Whether they hate it, love it, or can’t function without it, everyone feels something about it. I was curious about this deep-running passion, so I began asking people about their favorite chocolate. It got me thinking about the many different types of chocolate that exist. Aside from the many different flavor combinations that exist, there are also several classes of chocolate. Beyond the standard Hershey bar, there are also more high-quality choices. Local, Fair-Trade, Organic, etc. There are a multitude of options. 1
  • 5. BEAN-TO-BAR PROCCESS Through my investigation, I learned about a particular process of chocolate making that I had never heard of before. This process is called “Bean to Bar.” What this means is that the chocolate maker starts with the original ingre- dient, cacao beans, and turns them into finished chocolate products like bars, drinking chocolate, confections, and other tasty treats. Although this may be the way you imagine all chocolate making to be done, sadly that is not the case. At the time of publication, there are around one hundred chocolate manufacturers who use this process. The majority fall into two categories; those who are multi-million dollar corporations, and those who have been bought out by multi-million dollar corporations. The remaining few are those I have chosen to focus on. Some of these chocolate makers are based in countries where cacao is grown. They harvest the beans themselves and are thus actually known as “Tree to Bar” versus “Bean to Bar.” Surprisingly, although the Unites States is not necessarily regarded for its chocolate production, it is the country with the highest number of Bean to Bar chocolate manufacturers. At this time there are around twenty in operation. 2 3
  • 6. INTERVIEWS I wanted to find a way to capture the passion behind the people who make chocolate, these “experience designers” of sorts. Bean-to-bar chocolate makers seem to be even more emotionally invested in their chosen art form than the standard producer of chocolate. There may be a personal tie, a social belief, a political agenda, or a multitude of other hidden facets to their reasoning. I decided the only way to learn about how people feel about creating this object of desire would be to simply ask them about it. The following interviews were conducted over a three month period with bean-to-bar chocoalte makers from around the world. Over twenty were contacted, spanning twelve different countries. The special group that chose to participate became my ten little chocolate factories. I asked each chocolate maker to answer the same set of four questions in writing, through email. Although the questions were the same, the answers differed widely. 4 5
  • 7. AH CACAO REAL CHOCOLATE - MEXICO NAME: MÓNICA TELLO JOB TITLE: DIRECTOR OF GUEST EXPERIENCE 1) How did you get into your profession? A combination of things all came together at the same time that myself and my husband to initiate a Mexican chocolate company: A serious love of chocolate A desire to introduce more people to the joys of REAL chocolate made with fine tasting cacao 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think A desire to share the story of chocolate and cacao: you are offering to society? where it comes from, who grows it, its prehispanic his- tory, etc. and establish a deeper connection between We started this proyect with a dream of helping conserve nature the people who sweat in the cacao plantations and by creating value from it, in this case by cultivating high quality those who enjoy the exquisite taste of fine cacao cacao which grows below the forest canopy. By expanding the demand for high quality cacao products we increase the forested 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? areas in Mexico while simultaneously improving the quality of life of the cacao producers. That I have the opportunity to serve people from all over the world and most of them leave with a chocolate or coffee in their We also create jobs in Mexico along the entire value chain, which hands and a smile on their face. includes our own Ah Cacao Chocolate Café stores. The consumers of our products receive the health benefits of cacao with none of 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? the undesireable ingredients added by most mass market choco- late producers (some of our products have no sugar, for example In our case it’s because we wanted a fine tasting 100% Mexican and are sweetened only by natural fruits), in fact we consider product and producing ourselves from carefully selected beans was that the real “product”(or benefit) we offer our consumers is the only way to achieve the quality and type of product we desired. “natural well-being”. 6 7
  • 8. CHOCOLATES FÉNIX - ARGENTINA NAME: JOSE RODRIGO SALGADO JOB TITLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR 1) How did you get into your profession? My family started making chocolate in 1889 when my great- grandfather built his first cocoa mill in the Spanish Galicia back in 1889. Since then the family continued with this profession. Our houses are located just beside and above the factory so even origins. When the production area does not have a standard es- when being a child you start to appreciate the flavors, smells tablished then you must travel personally to the place and make and rythms of the business. Naturally, I grew up knowing and sure their fermentation and drying processes are done correctly. yearning to become part of this tradition. But the family’s policy is to make members as prepared as possible before receiving any Secondly, buying the bean allows you to explore different flavor responsibility. I therefore studied my Engineering degree and profiles, varieties, etc when bringing beans from different places afterwards took an MBA in Finance abroad before getting into or origins. This can get as specific as buying beans only from a the decission making team. single farm or plantation. Only small and medium manufacturers can do this. Bigger ones find this small volumes not interesting for their scale. 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? Processing a natural food which is healthy and gives people joy Thirdly, buying the bean can give you a social and peaceful ex- when consuming is definitively a “child’s dream”. Besides, the perience since you get to know the people you are buying from, need to supply the main ingredient from such places as Bolivian the producers. In this way you can avoid buying cocoa that could amazonia, Brazilian Bahia or Ecuador’s Esmeraldas, gives me the be obtained from child-labor activity, unfair trading practices opportunity to learn cultures, create human relationships, etc or even slavery. We make sure to know exactly from where our that not every job offers. cocoa comes. Lastly, chosing to buy the bean can give you the possibility to buy 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? as natural production as possible, knowing which fertilization and It is not actually really a choice. We have been doing it that way pesticides policy are used, etc. for more than 120 years, so why change? If a morning I woke up and the cocoa bean roasting smell does not reach my bed , then I 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think will feel half the thing is missing. you are offering to society? Choosing to start from bean gives you many advantages: As I told you before I really enjoy what I am doing. People smile Firstly you can control the quality. It is not the same to buy an at you when your profession is in discussion. People feel happy ASE (Arriba Summer Epoca) to an ASSS (Arriba Summer Superior to talk about it, People feel interested to know more about your Selected) arriba bean from Ecuador. Industrial liquor you may chocolate and how it is made. So why look into another job? We buy from multinationals is most probably made from the first. are offering to society a historical food, healthy, an experience But if you want to really assure a good flavor profile you have to to develop our own tastes, the possibility to create an inmense get at least an ASSS bean classification. This applies to almost all range of other products with it . . . 8 9
  • 9. GRENADA CHOCOLATE COMPANY - GRENADA NAME: MOTT GREEN JOB TITLE: DIRECTOR AND FOUNDER 1) How did you get into your profession? I lived in the woods here in Grenada in a bamboo house I built to grow food and live self sufficiently. Fell in love with cocoa trees and kitchen-style processing of hot chocolate. Developed dream of making fine eating dark chocolate with a cooperative or organic cocoa farmers. Been pursuing that for the past 10 years. 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? I enjoy making a delicious food that people enjoy so much and at the same time enjoy tinkering/designing the machinery and bits and pieces. Also a thrill to be on our cocoa farms a lot and direct the agricultural part of the project. 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? I wanted to make a chocolate that was farmer-made at the farm because I believe this is the only true way to make sure the value of fine chocolate is shared with everyone who produces it includ- ing all the farmers. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? I am helping Grenadian society by helping to encourage bringing back farming, this time with a sense of pride and in a more lucra- tive way. I am offering the whole world the chance to eat the most delicious dark chocolate with the purest ethics behind its production. Also, our project seems to inspire people in general. 10 11
  • 10. MALMÖ CHOKLADFABRIK - SWEDEN NAME: PETER HANSSON JOB TITLE: MANAGING DIRECTOR 1) How did you get into your profession? I worked in the mobile telephone industry for many years and traveled a lot in cocoa producing countries. The last few years we lived in France, Belgium and the Netherlands where my wife learned how to make pralines. My family bought an old property which happened to be a chocolate factory and we felt it was time to move back home to Sweden and start a chocolate business after 11 years abroad. 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? “ IT WOULD BE MUCH WERE NOT MAKE MONEY IF WE EASIER TO Taste, flavors, sounds, texture, colors. Also the fact that almost every person likes chocolate or at least has an opinion about it helps. 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? MAKING OUR OWN CHOCOLATE. ” Crazy idea, which we regretted many times. In Sweden, we are the only bean-to-bar maker and we understand now why. It is really hard work! Still, we think it is funny to be bean-to-bar. It would be much easier to make money, if we were not making our own chocolate. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? Our main challenge is education. We are running chocolate tasting event almost every day, where we educate people on the topic of chocolate nad have a tasting afterwards. There is so much rubbish products in Sweden which people think is choco- late. Our mission is to educate as many people as possible. 12 13
  • 11. ORIGINAL HAWAIIAN CHOCOLATE COMPANY - USA NAME: PAM & BOB COOPER JOB TITLE: OWNERS 1) How did you get into your profession? 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? In 1997 we accomplished our dream to live where the mountains It has truly been an adventure from the beginning and no two meet the sea, by purchasing a “Cocoa Plantation” on the Big days are ever the same. We love having people visit and do tours Island of Hawaii. There were no plans to farm as we had a won- by appointment. It would be irresponsible for us not to share our derful caretaker that took care of the six acres we’d purchased knowledge and experience and offering viewing of the process here for our semi-retirement. The cacao trees had just come from tree to bar. This is the only place in our country where to fruition and they surely had a “life of their own”. As this is a cacao trees will grow. We have people come from all over the very new crop for the State of Hawaii, we decided to encourage world to see the cacao trees and our factory. others to grow cacao, but it would be necessary for us to create a market for the niche signature chocolate that would have to 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? be produced to sustain such an industry here. Sugarcane and pineapple have run their course here and small family farmers Our process is actually tree to bar and everything is done right needed a new crop to diversity their farms. Thus, we set about here on the farm. We do buy wet cocoa beans from a number of hiring a consultant, had beans tested, transformed our ag-shed growers (who we encouraged to plant) whose trees are coming into the smallest chocolate factory ever and so began America’s to fruition now that completes a vertically integrated industry first homegrown and produced single origin chocolate. right here! 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? We offer and are giving back by supporting: local farmers, local retailers (we have approx. 60 and growing), Hawaii Regional Cui- sine Chefs, educational tours for senior citizens, school children, college students) and now the agritourism industry. We are also proud to be part of the American “Can Do!” mentality. 14 15
  • 12. PACARI CHOCOLATE - ECUADOR NAME: SANTIAGO PERALTA JOB TITLE: FOUNDER/OWNER “ EVERYDAY I COME TO WORK EXCITED ABOUT WHAT WE ARE DOING. ” 1) How did you get into your profession? Growing up with parents who appreciated the natural world, I decided that it would be wonderful to build a company based on some aspect of natural products. Being from Ecuador, which is blessed with one of the best cacao beans in the world, I thought this would be an interesting path. For several years, my wife Carla and I began selling bulk cacao 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? products in Europe and the US, and then developed a range of As Ecuadorians, we are able to source the best of the best beans couverture for some European chocolate companies. It was very that grow in our country, and. This enables us to work directly well-regarded, and so we decided to make finished product under with the cacao growers, providing training and capacity building our own brand, Pacari Chocolate. We wanted to create a high in how to achieve organic cacao of high quality. We get the qual- quality, organic chocolate that was made in our country, and ity of beans we need, and the growers get a higher price for their show that Ecuador not only has the arriba nacional bean, but that superior cacao. we can produce an exceptional product ourselves. This not only is a matter of pride for our country, but also helps to keep more of the jobs and profits where it counts. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? I got my degree in law, thinking that I would work to promote justice. After a while I was disillusioned, realizing that law was Making a quality product that we all can be proud of, and experi- not the same thing as justice. I decided I could have a direct im- menting with new ways to work with the cacao are the best parts pact by creating a socially responsible company, which supports of making artisanal chocolate. We are a small, creative group local communities and the environment, as well as the health of dedicated to quality and innovation, and of course promoting our final customers. Every day I come to work excited about what organic agriculture. we are doing and have yet to do. 16 17
  • 13. RED STAR CHOCOLATE - ENGLAND NAME: DUFFY SHEARDOWN JOB TITLE: CHOCOLATE MAKER 1) How did you get into your profession? After 25 years making racing cars I needed a change. I heard a radio programme stating that “Only Cadburys” make chocolate in the UK from beans - everyone else makes confections using couverture that they buy in. My background and arrogance led me to say “how hard can it be” and when yet another race team collapsed beneath me I decided to find out. I spent a year finding equipment and testing suppliers and recipes and then opened my own factory producing bars of chocolate made from beans. 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? I have total control over all aspects of the process and if anything goes wrong it is down to me. I also get to test a lot of chocolate and hope to make the best chocolate in the world - one day. 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? If you want to control the taste of the final chocolate it makes sense to have control of as many of the processes as you can. I’m not a farmer so I can’t grow the beans and I can’t dry and ferment them either. Everything else I can and do control. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? I chose to start this business because I can’t see myself in a “regular” job. I don’t respect authority particularly and I’m used to operating with a huge degree of autonomy that I wasn’t prepared to give up. I don’t think I am offering society anything other than good choc- olate. My web-site will have some information about the farm- ers and how they live and I will tithe my profits to return some money to the farming communities. I also pay extra for Fairtrade and good quality beans. Maybe I can help the cacau-growing farmers in some small way to have a less meagre existence. 18 19
  • 14. SOMA CHOCOLATEMAKER - CANADA NAME: DAVID CASTELLAN JOB TITLE: CHOCOLATE MAKER “ IT’S MORE LIKE LAB. AN ” 1) How did you get into your profession? I got into chocolate from the pastry / baking end. My mother had EXPERIMENTAL a bakery and I grew up baking. In the mid eighties I worked with a few European pastry chefs that really taught me how to make a proper ganache, temper etc. I did a stage in Cortina D’ampezzo where we often used a two roll granite refiner and a small coat- ing pan. The machines added another dimension to the work, using them required another set of skills but there was an artistry too, especially using the coating pan. I continued with chocolate after a long stint as a pastry chef in various restaurants. 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? It is a magical and yet technical process that is appealing in that 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? there is so much to learn and yet it is so simple. In essence is it There is a huge amount of freedom especially because we sell just roasting, grinding and creating an emulsion of cocoa beans most of our chocolate in our store. It is more like an experimen- and sugar. but in that there are a million variables. Exploring the tal lab. I can work on any crazy chocolate idea and because we variables is the job! have a steady clientele, it is on the shelf and purchased possibly on the same day. In the wholesale chocolate scenario, an idea 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think would have to be worked out with sales in mind as well as a lot of you are offering to society? money spent on packaging bar code etc. It takes the fun out of it. I have the pleasure of working with Cynthia my wife and partner. We hope to offer an interesting new way to appreciate on ancient We work well together and as she does thedesign/packaging, we substance. As far as our place in society, any way to do this in a small, can come up with products on the fly. artesan, community oriented and non-corporate way is beneficial... 20 21
  • 15. TCHO - USA NAME: GRACE ERICKSON JOB TITLE: PRODUCTION MANAGER 1) How did you get into your profession? I graduated college with a degree in Business Operations Man- agement and had my heart set on candy manufacturing. The Bay Area had numerous chocolate companies at that time - See’s, Schmidt, Scharffenberger, Guittard, Ghirardelli, Blommer, et al. I applied to all and ended up with a job in Production Planning at Ghirardelli Chocolate Company. 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? I enjoy the continuous movement and problem-solving aspects of my job. Manufacturing is exciting and ever-changing — it’s where the life of a product begins. 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? TCHO chooses the bean-to-bar process because it enables a com- pany to control quality at the highest level. We choose the beans we want and we fly out out of the country to roast our beans to our desired specifications and ship the milled liquor to our factory to finish the rest of the process. If we did not control the entire process from bean-to-bar then our options would be limited to the couverture that is available on the open market, which is not customized to our specifications. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think you are offering to society? I choose this job because I love working with chocolate and building those products for the marketplace. 22 23
  • 16. THEO CHOCOLATE - USA NAME: NATHAN ROYSTON JOB TITLE: PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT 1) How did you get into your profession? I always loved chocolate ever since I was a little kid and that was It also means we have control over driving innovation and a love that never left me. When I moved to Seattle about four maintaining our own quality, because we are actually doing the years ago and found out there was an actual chocolate factory in manufacturing, each step of the way. It is a source of great pride the city, I went to check it out. I was really inspired after getting for me and all the employees here that we get to have a hand in a tour of the facility and asked if there were opportunities to vol- making something truly unique. unteer for a few hours a week. I was offered a job a couple days later and it felt like an opportunity that was too good to pass up. 4) Why do you do this job versus something else? What do you think I have been working here ever since. you are offering to society? At this point, even though chocolate manufacturing is not what 2) What is it about your job that you enjoy the most? I intended to do in my life, the excitement I receive from work- At this point Theo is only about 50 employees, which means that ing for a small, growing company is more than enough to keep you really get to feel the impact of your work. This can be both me at this job. I have seen huge changes here over the past few positive or negative but is always a great motivator. It is easy to years and can’t wait to see what happens next. Even jobs that see when you make mistakes but also easy to see the effects of may offer more pay, or fewer hours, could not offer the environ- your successes. Also, the small number of employees means that ment that Theo offers right now. I feel like I am a large part of you can be involved in anything that you put your energy into something that is growing and has the potential to be successful. whether it be developing new products, participating in events As far as social contribution, working for a company that have outside of work, or improving internal processes. social and environmental sustainability components in their mis- sion statement, helps keep me motivated to do a good job. What Theo is trying to do by empowering consumers with chocolate 3) Why do you choose to do your craft the way you do? knowledge, and helping farmers at origin is very rare in an industry that is traditionally not transparent on any level and not One of the interesting things about chocolate manufacturing in concerned with social and environmental issues. general is how few people are actually making chocolate from bean to bar. There are a small handful of manufactures that “ CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURING supply chocolate to the world. Being able to produce chocolate from bean to bar gives us so much more control over the type of chocolate we’d like to make. IS NOT WHAT I INTENDED TO ” For Theo in particular, we get the option of sourcing Organic and Fair Trade cocoa beans, something no other American chocolate maker is currently doing. DO WITH MY LIFE. 24 25
  • 17. GLOSSARY OF CHOCOLATE TERMINOLOGY A list of terms related to chocolate making and chocolate eating. Bittersweet Bittersweet chocolate, not to be confused with unsweetened or semisweet chocolate, is primarily used for baking. A slightly sweetened dark chocolate, it has many uses such as making shiny chocolate curls as garnishes or rich, dense chocolate cakes. Both it and semisweet chocolate are required by the U.S. FDA to contain at least 35% chocolate liquor. Cacao A term used for a cacao plant but also for the unprocessed product (pods) of the cacao plant. Chocolate Liquor Chocolate liquor is made up of the finely ground nib of the cocoa bean. This is technically not yet chocolate. This type of chocolate is also known as un- sweetened chocolate and is also referred to cocoa mass or cocoa liquor. Cocoa Beans Source of all chocolate and cocoa, cocoa beans are found in the pods (fruit) of the cocoa tree, an evergreen cultivated mainly within twenty degrees north or south of the equator. Cocoa Butter Cocoa butter is a complex, hard fat made up mostly of triglycerides, it re- mains firm at room temperature, then it contracts as it cools and solidifies. It is ideal for molding. Cocoa Pods Between the blossoms of the permanently flowering cocoa tree we can see fruit at various stages of development. The egg-shaped cocoa pods measure between 6 and 12 inches and hang from the trunk and the largest branches. Each fruit contains between 30 and 40 beans of about 1 cm (about 0.5 inch) in length. 26 27
  • 18. Cocoa Powder Nibs The result of extracting cocoa butter from cocoa paste. Cocoa powder is The kernels of coc0a beans are usually called ‘nibs’ and are the basic ingredi- used to prepare chocolate drinks or to sprinkle truffles and chocolate tarts. ent of which chocolate is made. Sometimes, nibs are used to add texture to chocolate bars or chocolate deserts. Conching Organic The processing step called ‘conching’ reduces the moistness of the cocoa The word ‘organic’ refers to how these food products are produced. Organic mass and removes the volatile acids. At the same time, this step allows for production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replen- specific aromas and smoothness to be associated with chocolate. Conching ishes the fertility of the soil. Organic foods are produced without the use is the process where the chocolate is “plowed” back and forth through the of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. They are processed without artificial liquid chocolate which smoothes the chocolate and rounds out the flavor, ingredients, preservatives or irradiation. Organic chocolate contains a mini- essential for the flavor, the texture and the overall quality of the chocolate. mum of 95% naturally grown and certified raw materials. Couverture Semisweet and Sweet Chocolate Couverture is a term used to describe professional-quality coating chocolate Prepared by blending chocolate liquid with varying amounts of sweetening with a high percentage of cocoa butter, at least 32%, and as high as 39% and added cocoa butter. Flavorings may be included. After processing, the for good quality couverture. The extra cocoa butter allows the chocolate to chocolate is cooled. Sweet chocolate is usually molded into bars. Semisweet form a thinner coating shell than non-couverture chocolate. chocolate is also available in bar form, but most popularly as pieces. This is the generic term. Different manufacturers use different names such as blocs, Dark Chocolate squares, bits, etc. Chocolate is also granulated and known as “shot,” used for decoration by candy makers and confectioners. Dark chocolate must contain a minimum of 43% cocoa to be called “dark” according to European norms. A “70% cocoa chocolate” is considered quite dark while 85% and even 88% cocoa dark chocolates have become quite Tempering popular for dark chocolate lovers. Tempering is the process of bringing the chocolate to a certain temperature whereby the cocoa butter reaches its most stable crystal form. There are several forms in which the butter can crystallize, only one of which ensures Lecithin the hardness, shrinking force and gloss of the finished product after it has A natural product extracted from the soy bean that is used as a thinner in cooled. If the chocolate is melted in the normal way (between 40 and 45°C) chocolate. During the manufacturing of chocolate, lecithin controls flow and then left to cool to working temperature, the finished product will not properties through the reduction of viscocity. be gloss. Proper tempering, followed by proper cooling produces a nice shine and good eating properties Milk Chocolate The best known kind of eating chocolate. Milk chocolate is made by combin- White Chocolate ing the chocolate liquid, extra cocoa butter, milk or cream, sweetening, and White chocolate is not considered real chocolate, because although it has flavorings. cocoa butter (at least 32% to be considered of good quality), it does not have chocolate liquor. White chocolate is made from cocoa butter, milk, sugar and vanilla. “ChocolateSource.com About Chocolate - Glossary.” The premier source for gourmet chocolate. Order Gourmet Chocolate on-line: Belgian, American and French, baking chocolate, truffles, gift box of Nirvana Chocolates, bars from Callebaut, Cote D’Or, Valrhona, Scharffen Berger, chocolate spread and many other items. <http://www. chocolatesource.com/glossary/>. 28 29
  • 19. INDEX OF CHOCOLATE MAKERS Ah Cacao Real Chocolate www.ahcacao.com Chocolates Fénix www.chocolatesfenix.com Grenada Chocolate Company www.grenadachocolate.com Malmö Chokladfabrik www.malmochokladfabrik.se Original Hawaiian Chocolate Company www.ohcf.us Pacari Chocolate www.pacarichocolate.com Red Star Chocolate www.redstarchocolate.co.uk SOMA Chocolatemaker www.somachocolate.com TCHO www.tcho.com Theo Chocolate www.theochocolate.com 30 31