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Coastal Environments: The Basics
• 97% of all water on our planet is in the
oceans.

• Fresh water represents the remaining 3%
(2/3 is snow and ice in glaciers / polar ice
caps).

• Liquid and solid water cover roughly 3/4 of
Earth's surface area.

• 29% of the earth’s surface is above sea level
(71% is below )
Unique properties of water
• Absorbs or releases more heat than most
  other substances for every temperature
  degree of change
• Water is a good solvent and can dissolve
  more substances than other fluids, even
  rocks
• Water exists in 3 physical states that can
  power thunderstorms/hurricanes and help
  transport the sun's energy, nutrients, and
  organisms
More than half the
 world's population
 live within 60km
 of a coastline

[In the US, half live within
   80 km, on less than 17%
   of the land area…]



                               South Florida, USA
Overview
• Chemical properties of water
   – H bonds
   – Ice
   – Salinity and Sources
• Physical properties of water
   – Biomechanics
   – Density
   – Temperature
• Major ocean basins of the world
   – Chemical signatures (depth and latitude)
• Coastal Systems
   – Sandy beaches, rocky coasts, estuaries, deltas, reefs
Chemical properties of water

A.   Hydrogen Bonds          E.   Specific Heat
B.   Crystalline Structure   F.   Evaporation
C.   Surface Tension         G.   Molecular Interactions
D.   Tensile Strength        H.   Movement and Transport
Chemical properties of water

A.   Hydrogen Bonds          E.   Specific Heat
B.   Crystalline Structure   F.   Evaporation
C.   Surface Tension         G.   Molecular Interactions
D.   Tensile Strength        H.   Movement and Transport
Hydrogen Bonds


        O d-

 d+ H          H d+
Hydrogen Bonds
Hydrogen Bonds
3 physical states of water:




      WATER VAPOR
Crystalline Structure
Crystalline Structure
Ice
Surface tension
Water has high surface tension due to
lateral and downward attraction between
individual molecules, which stretches the
water's surface, creating a thin skin


                   O d-

           d+ H           H d+
Surface tension
Water has high surface tension due to
lateral and downward attraction between
individual molecules, which stretches the
water's surface, creating a thin skin
Surface tension
• Water striders can walk upon the water's surface.

• Members of the neuston depend upon the surface film of
water for transport and food.

• Liquid water on surfaces to which it does not adhere well
"beads-up."

• Surface tension of the water allows wind to push against
it, generating waves in large water bodies.

• [Detergents reduce the surface tension of water (by as
much as 70%) and allows it to spread out on a surface.]
Tensile strength
           Water is strong under tension.

The force needed to pull pure water apart can be as
    much as 3 x 107 Newtons/m2

120 lbs = 530 Newtons

  Limpet attachment strength = 1 x 106 Newtons/m2
Specific heat
Water can absorb a great deal of energy which goes to
breaking hydrogen bonds but does not lead to measurable
temperature increases.

Because of the massive number of hydrogen bonds in water,
it requires a lot of energy to see even a small change in
water temperature.
Evaporation

   A water molecule makes the transition from
    a liquid phase into a gas phase.

Because the escaping molecule had a higher
 than average energy level, it leaves the
 liquid cooler (lower in energy) upon
 evaporation.
Hydrogen Bonds - Summary

•   High heat capacity (1 cal/g/C);
•   Heat of vaporization (540 cal/g);
•   Heat of fusion (-80 cal/g);
•   Solid less dense than liquid phase;
•   High surface tension
Molecular interactions
Solutes
  Dissociation of Water Molecules
      KD = [H+][OH-]/[H2O] = 1.8 x 10-16 M

where KD is the dissociation constant
 (equilibrium constant) for the dissociation
 of a proton from a water molecule (the
 smaller the KD, the stronger the binding)
pH of solutions
pH - an index of the relative concentration of
 H+ ions in solution

[H+] = [OH-] = 10-7 M in pure water    ([H2O] = 55 M)



pH  -log10[H+]

In pure water, pH = 7
pH of solutions
•   The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14
•   The higher the pH, the lower the [H+]
    (alkaline, basic solutions have a high pH)
•   The lower the pH, the higher the [H+]
    (acidic solutions have a lower pH)
pH of solutions
Examples:

Gastric juice = 1.0   Seawater  8.0
Orange juice = 4.3    Urine = 6-8.0
Blood plasma = 7.4    Ammonia = 12.0
pH and the sea
• A difference in pH from 8 to 7.8 can
  significantly decrease coral growth rates
• Increased CO2 in the atmosphere lowers pH
• Active photosynthesis and nitrogenous
  waste excretion can increase local pH
Water as a polar solvent and Salinity

Strong Electrolytes (substances that dissociate
    completely when dissolved in water - ions)
    Salts consist of ions:
   NaCl  Na+ + Cl- salt
             HCl  H+ + Cl- strong acid
             NaOH  Na+ + OH- strong base


      For strong electrolytes, KD  
Water as a polar solvent

Weak Electrolytes (substances that dissociate in
   water only to a small extent (KD  10-3 M to
   10-11 M)
  H2CO3  H+ + HCO3- KD = 1.7 x 10-4 M


            KD  10-3 M to 10-11 M
Carbon dioxide-carbonate equilibrium
         CO2(g)        CO2(aq)     (CO2 from the atmosphere
                                   dissolves into seawater)

CO2(aq) + H2O(l)       H2CO3(aq)     (Carbonic acid)

                                       bicarbonate
 H2CO3        H+ + HCO3-           KD = 4.2 × 10-7
                                       carbonate
 HCO3-         H+ + CO32-          KD = 4.8 × 10-11


 CaCO3(s) + 2 H+(aq)        Ca2+(aq) + H2CO3(aq)

             High CO2= low [CO32- ]
               Ocean acidification
Water as a polar solvent

Because of its small size and polar nature, water
   dissolves many materials, more than any other
   liquid

Oceans of water act as sink for CO2 molecules –
   leads to acidification

Seawater contains almost every known naturally
   occurring element
Seawater constituents
Component     Concentration Percentage of Salinity

 chloride         18.98              55.03

  sodium          10.56              30.59

  sulfate         2.65               7.68

magnesium         1.27               3.68

 calcium          0.40               1.18

potassium         0.38               1.11

bicarbonate       0.14                0
Seawater constituents




•Average ocean water has a salinity of 35.0
•This means that 1000 g of average seawater contains 965 g
of water and 35 g of salts.
Dissolved
                                        chemicals                Wind, water, and
                                                                 ice erosion



        Biological uptake, or
               absorption of
                 particles, or
                precipitation
                                             Eroded rock
                                              particles          Wind, water, and
                                                                 ice erosion


 Seawater                                    River and wind
                                             transport and
                                             deposition

constituents                     Sediments              Fallout of volcanic
                                                         ash over oceans
                                                                                    Volcanic ash and
                                                                                     igneous rocks
                                                                                        on land




            Compaction and
                water loss                                 Subduction, melting,
                                                             and vulcanism


                                                    Scraped of and uplifted
                                                      ot subduction zone
                            Sedimentary rock                                        Sedimentary rock
                             on oceanic crust                                           on land
Seawater constituents
Seawater constituents
Seawater constituents




From U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 03–028, January
2003 African Dust Carries Microbes Across the Ocean: Are They
Affecting Human and Ecosystem Health?
Movement and Transport


Diffusion – high concentrations  low concentration

    Air vs. water

Mass transport – particles carried by fluid flow
Diffusion

high concentration  low concentration




                       C = concentration
                       D = diffusion coefficient
                       x = length
                       t = time
Mass Transport
high concentration  low concentration
Physical properties of water
  •Viscosity
  •Reynolds number, Boundary
  Layers, and Mass transport
  •Density
  •Temperature
Water as a fluid
Fluid (flu·id) French fluide, from Latin fluidus,
from fluere to flow; akin to Greek phlyzein to boil
over):
  having particles that easily move and change their
relative position without a separation of the mass and
that easily yield to pressure; capable of flowing.
What is a fluid?
Viscosity (m): the resistance of a fluid to motion or internal
friction

Reynolds number (Re): the ratio of inertial forces to viscous
forces in a fluid

Density (r): the mass of a substance per unit volume
Viscosity
   The viscosity of liquids can vary drastically and
   decreases rapidly with an increase in temperature.

  m = 50 N s/m2   At 20º C        m = 1 x 10-3 N s/m2




m = 0.07 N s/m2    At 100º C
Reynolds number
Reynolds number
  Re = rUx/m
Reynolds number
                     Re = rUx/m




                 Re = 108

Re = 1
Copepod swimming
      Low Re
Boundary Layers and Mass Transport




Re = 101




              Laminar       Turbulent
Boundary Layers
Boundary Layers and Mass Transport


Re = 103




Re = 108
Major basins
Major basins
        4




                     2

    1
                           3


5
Major basins –
               General Characteristics
Pacific Ocean                           Indian Ocean
• average depth 3,940 m                 • average depth 3,840 m
• extensive marginal seas, volcanic     • large sediment input (Indus and Ganges
   island systems, and trenches         River Deltas)
                                        Arctic Ocean
• considerable mountain building and
   earthquake activity along            • average depth 1,038 m
   boundaries (Ring of Fire)            • centered on the north pole
• little freshwater input               • shallow and land-locked
                                        • covered by sea ice
Atlantic Ocean
                                        • large sediment input from active glaciers
• average depth 3,310 m
                                        Southern Ocean
• large freshwater input (Amazon,       • average depth 4,000 m
   Congo, Mississippi, Niger, Orinoco
                                        • continuous ring of water around Antarctica
   Rivers)
                                        • coldest of all oceans (near freezing)
                                        • extensive winter sea ice coverage
                                        • most biologically productive ocean
Marginal Seas




Surrounding the Atlantic Ocean is the Sargasso Sea (1), Weddell Sea (2), the
   Caribbean Sea (3), the North Sea (4), and the Mediterranean Sea (5).
   Surrounding the Pacific Ocean is the Ross Sea (6), the Coral Sea (7), the
   South China Sea (8), the Sea of Japan (9), the Sea of Okhotsk (10), the Bering
   Sea (11), and the Sea of Cortez (12) (also called the Gulf of California).
   Surrounding the Indian Ocean is the Red Sea (13), the Arabian Sea (14), and
   the Bay of Bengal (15). Surrounding the Arctic Ocean is the Bering Sea (11),
   the Laptev Sea (16), the Barents Sea (17), and the Beaufort Sea (18).
Largest, smallest, deepest, saltiest
The Arctic Ocean is the
smallest (area = 9,485,000
sq km, or < 1/10 Pacific)




 Pacific Ocean =
 1/3 globe (18 x US)
 1/2 world ocean
Top 10 Deepest Trenches
1 Mariana
2 Tonga
3 Philippine
4 Kermadec            81                   9
                    35
5 Bonin              7 10
                       6 2
6 New Britain
                             4
7 Kuril
8 Izu
9 Puerto Rico
10 Yap
                Mariana Trench = 35,802 ft (10,912 m)
Puerto Rico Trench




               8,400 m (5.2 miles)
Highest Salinity


Red Sea salinity ranges
between 36 and 38 psu



Dead Sea salinity = 360 psu
Ocean basins
Ocean basins
Ocean basins

To “sail the seven seas” (< 1400’s) =

   1. Adriatic Sea
   2. Black Sea
   3. Caspian Sea
   4. Mediterranean Sea
   5. Red Sea
   6. Persian Gulf
   7. Indian Ocean

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Ocean basics

  • 2. • 97% of all water on our planet is in the oceans. • Fresh water represents the remaining 3% (2/3 is snow and ice in glaciers / polar ice caps). • Liquid and solid water cover roughly 3/4 of Earth's surface area. • 29% of the earth’s surface is above sea level (71% is below )
  • 3. Unique properties of water • Absorbs or releases more heat than most other substances for every temperature degree of change • Water is a good solvent and can dissolve more substances than other fluids, even rocks • Water exists in 3 physical states that can power thunderstorms/hurricanes and help transport the sun's energy, nutrients, and organisms
  • 4. More than half the world's population live within 60km of a coastline [In the US, half live within 80 km, on less than 17% of the land area…] South Florida, USA
  • 5. Overview • Chemical properties of water – H bonds – Ice – Salinity and Sources • Physical properties of water – Biomechanics – Density – Temperature • Major ocean basins of the world – Chemical signatures (depth and latitude) • Coastal Systems – Sandy beaches, rocky coasts, estuaries, deltas, reefs
  • 6. Chemical properties of water A. Hydrogen Bonds E. Specific Heat B. Crystalline Structure F. Evaporation C. Surface Tension G. Molecular Interactions D. Tensile Strength H. Movement and Transport
  • 7. Chemical properties of water A. Hydrogen Bonds E. Specific Heat B. Crystalline Structure F. Evaporation C. Surface Tension G. Molecular Interactions D. Tensile Strength H. Movement and Transport
  • 8. Hydrogen Bonds O d- d+ H H d+
  • 10. Hydrogen Bonds 3 physical states of water: WATER VAPOR
  • 13. Ice
  • 14. Surface tension Water has high surface tension due to lateral and downward attraction between individual molecules, which stretches the water's surface, creating a thin skin O d- d+ H H d+
  • 15. Surface tension Water has high surface tension due to lateral and downward attraction between individual molecules, which stretches the water's surface, creating a thin skin
  • 16. Surface tension • Water striders can walk upon the water's surface. • Members of the neuston depend upon the surface film of water for transport and food. • Liquid water on surfaces to which it does not adhere well "beads-up." • Surface tension of the water allows wind to push against it, generating waves in large water bodies. • [Detergents reduce the surface tension of water (by as much as 70%) and allows it to spread out on a surface.]
  • 17. Tensile strength Water is strong under tension. The force needed to pull pure water apart can be as much as 3 x 107 Newtons/m2 120 lbs = 530 Newtons Limpet attachment strength = 1 x 106 Newtons/m2
  • 18. Specific heat Water can absorb a great deal of energy which goes to breaking hydrogen bonds but does not lead to measurable temperature increases. Because of the massive number of hydrogen bonds in water, it requires a lot of energy to see even a small change in water temperature.
  • 19. Evaporation  A water molecule makes the transition from a liquid phase into a gas phase. Because the escaping molecule had a higher than average energy level, it leaves the liquid cooler (lower in energy) upon evaporation.
  • 20. Hydrogen Bonds - Summary • High heat capacity (1 cal/g/C); • Heat of vaporization (540 cal/g); • Heat of fusion (-80 cal/g); • Solid less dense than liquid phase; • High surface tension
  • 21. Molecular interactions Solutes Dissociation of Water Molecules KD = [H+][OH-]/[H2O] = 1.8 x 10-16 M where KD is the dissociation constant (equilibrium constant) for the dissociation of a proton from a water molecule (the smaller the KD, the stronger the binding)
  • 22. pH of solutions pH - an index of the relative concentration of H+ ions in solution [H+] = [OH-] = 10-7 M in pure water ([H2O] = 55 M) pH  -log10[H+] In pure water, pH = 7
  • 23. pH of solutions • The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 • The higher the pH, the lower the [H+] (alkaline, basic solutions have a high pH) • The lower the pH, the higher the [H+] (acidic solutions have a lower pH)
  • 24. pH of solutions Examples: Gastric juice = 1.0 Seawater  8.0 Orange juice = 4.3 Urine = 6-8.0 Blood plasma = 7.4 Ammonia = 12.0
  • 25. pH and the sea • A difference in pH from 8 to 7.8 can significantly decrease coral growth rates • Increased CO2 in the atmosphere lowers pH • Active photosynthesis and nitrogenous waste excretion can increase local pH
  • 26. Water as a polar solvent and Salinity Strong Electrolytes (substances that dissociate completely when dissolved in water - ions) Salts consist of ions: NaCl  Na+ + Cl- salt HCl  H+ + Cl- strong acid NaOH  Na+ + OH- strong base For strong electrolytes, KD  
  • 27. Water as a polar solvent Weak Electrolytes (substances that dissociate in water only to a small extent (KD  10-3 M to 10-11 M) H2CO3  H+ + HCO3- KD = 1.7 x 10-4 M KD  10-3 M to 10-11 M
  • 28. Carbon dioxide-carbonate equilibrium CO2(g) CO2(aq) (CO2 from the atmosphere dissolves into seawater) CO2(aq) + H2O(l) H2CO3(aq) (Carbonic acid) bicarbonate H2CO3 H+ + HCO3- KD = 4.2 × 10-7 carbonate HCO3- H+ + CO32- KD = 4.8 × 10-11 CaCO3(s) + 2 H+(aq) Ca2+(aq) + H2CO3(aq) High CO2= low [CO32- ] Ocean acidification
  • 29. Water as a polar solvent Because of its small size and polar nature, water dissolves many materials, more than any other liquid Oceans of water act as sink for CO2 molecules – leads to acidification Seawater contains almost every known naturally occurring element
  • 30. Seawater constituents Component Concentration Percentage of Salinity chloride 18.98 55.03 sodium 10.56 30.59 sulfate 2.65 7.68 magnesium 1.27 3.68 calcium 0.40 1.18 potassium 0.38 1.11 bicarbonate 0.14 0
  • 31. Seawater constituents •Average ocean water has a salinity of 35.0 •This means that 1000 g of average seawater contains 965 g of water and 35 g of salts.
  • 32. Dissolved chemicals Wind, water, and ice erosion Biological uptake, or absorption of particles, or precipitation Eroded rock particles Wind, water, and ice erosion Seawater River and wind transport and deposition constituents Sediments Fallout of volcanic ash over oceans Volcanic ash and igneous rocks on land Compaction and water loss Subduction, melting, and vulcanism Scraped of and uplifted ot subduction zone Sedimentary rock Sedimentary rock on oceanic crust on land
  • 35. Seawater constituents From U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 03–028, January 2003 African Dust Carries Microbes Across the Ocean: Are They Affecting Human and Ecosystem Health?
  • 36. Movement and Transport Diffusion – high concentrations  low concentration Air vs. water Mass transport – particles carried by fluid flow
  • 37. Diffusion high concentration  low concentration C = concentration D = diffusion coefficient x = length t = time
  • 38. Mass Transport high concentration  low concentration
  • 39. Physical properties of water •Viscosity •Reynolds number, Boundary Layers, and Mass transport •Density •Temperature
  • 40. Water as a fluid Fluid (flu·id) French fluide, from Latin fluidus, from fluere to flow; akin to Greek phlyzein to boil over):  having particles that easily move and change their relative position without a separation of the mass and that easily yield to pressure; capable of flowing.
  • 41. What is a fluid? Viscosity (m): the resistance of a fluid to motion or internal friction Reynolds number (Re): the ratio of inertial forces to viscous forces in a fluid Density (r): the mass of a substance per unit volume
  • 42. Viscosity The viscosity of liquids can vary drastically and decreases rapidly with an increase in temperature. m = 50 N s/m2 At 20º C m = 1 x 10-3 N s/m2 m = 0.07 N s/m2 At 100º C
  • 44. Reynolds number Re = rUx/m
  • 45. Reynolds number Re = rUx/m Re = 108 Re = 1
  • 47. Boundary Layers and Mass Transport Re = 101 Laminar Turbulent
  • 49. Boundary Layers and Mass Transport Re = 103 Re = 108
  • 51. Major basins 4 2 1 3 5
  • 52. Major basins – General Characteristics Pacific Ocean Indian Ocean • average depth 3,940 m • average depth 3,840 m • extensive marginal seas, volcanic • large sediment input (Indus and Ganges island systems, and trenches River Deltas) Arctic Ocean • considerable mountain building and earthquake activity along • average depth 1,038 m boundaries (Ring of Fire) • centered on the north pole • little freshwater input • shallow and land-locked • covered by sea ice Atlantic Ocean • large sediment input from active glaciers • average depth 3,310 m Southern Ocean • large freshwater input (Amazon, • average depth 4,000 m Congo, Mississippi, Niger, Orinoco • continuous ring of water around Antarctica Rivers) • coldest of all oceans (near freezing) • extensive winter sea ice coverage • most biologically productive ocean
  • 53. Marginal Seas Surrounding the Atlantic Ocean is the Sargasso Sea (1), Weddell Sea (2), the Caribbean Sea (3), the North Sea (4), and the Mediterranean Sea (5). Surrounding the Pacific Ocean is the Ross Sea (6), the Coral Sea (7), the South China Sea (8), the Sea of Japan (9), the Sea of Okhotsk (10), the Bering Sea (11), and the Sea of Cortez (12) (also called the Gulf of California). Surrounding the Indian Ocean is the Red Sea (13), the Arabian Sea (14), and the Bay of Bengal (15). Surrounding the Arctic Ocean is the Bering Sea (11), the Laptev Sea (16), the Barents Sea (17), and the Beaufort Sea (18).
  • 54. Largest, smallest, deepest, saltiest The Arctic Ocean is the smallest (area = 9,485,000 sq km, or < 1/10 Pacific) Pacific Ocean = 1/3 globe (18 x US) 1/2 world ocean
  • 55. Top 10 Deepest Trenches 1 Mariana 2 Tonga 3 Philippine 4 Kermadec 81 9 35 5 Bonin 7 10 6 2 6 New Britain 4 7 Kuril 8 Izu 9 Puerto Rico 10 Yap Mariana Trench = 35,802 ft (10,912 m)
  • 56. Puerto Rico Trench 8,400 m (5.2 miles)
  • 57. Highest Salinity Red Sea salinity ranges between 36 and 38 psu Dead Sea salinity = 360 psu
  • 60. Ocean basins To “sail the seven seas” (< 1400’s) = 1. Adriatic Sea 2. Black Sea 3. Caspian Sea 4. Mediterranean Sea 5. Red Sea 6. Persian Gulf 7. Indian Ocean