The issue #08 of the Jewellery Historian (www.jewelleryhistorian.com) the free e-magazine about jewellery, jewellery design, gemstones, luxury and auctions.
5. news
portraits
14 Basel World 2015 Elegance & Brilliance
16 Pasquale Bruni at Basel World 2015
18 Fabergé An objet d'art masterpiece
Omi Privé Grand prize 0f 2015 JCK Jewelers’ Choice
22 Sotheby's appoints David Bennett Jewelry Chairman
Meghna Patel Adventurous, luxurius & wearable
46 Chimento Hand-made beauty & versality
Gumuchian a collction for bees
20
32
72
musts Editor's Letter Passion for creativity
10 Issue Globe The designers at a glance
09
Mousson Atelier beauty setted in precious metals88
inspiration Adler introduces Flora, the fruit of artisanal expertise
138 Amethyst The breathtaking beauty of gems
Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden
128
146
March 2015
Jewellery Historian 005
Zolotas introduces the Love letter collection
28 Avakian at the Doha jewelry & watches exhibition
26
9. Founder & Editor-in-Chief
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
editor's letter
Thisissueisdefinitelyaspringissue.Itislikeagarden,featuringuniqueandtalenteddesignersfromallovertheworld,likeeach
one of our issues. Since our first issue our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for
designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. We are grateful to all brands
and designers that decided to share their creativity and vision with us all, since many refused our invitation.
With as a main goal to provide the highest-quality content for free on the internet, while keeping access to our e-magazine
free to all users worldwide, we believe in free education of every person. Education is the key to building better lives for
hundredsofmillionsworldwide.Foruseducationisafundamentalrightthatrequiresfreedeliveryandfreeaccesstomaterial
of high quality. But education is definitely the centre of huge economic interests. We believe in free education and we also
believe that brands should support, financially and morally, initiatives that want to offer free access and information in order
to promote designers & brands and educate readers for free. They should support "open source" initiatives instead of trying
only to sell something. To the ones that support us morally we are thankful.
One of our goals is to offer free knowledge, by offering free material to people interested in creativity, interested in
discovering the amazing universe, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons. We believe and work with the
goalofraisingtheawarenessofjewellery&watchdesignasaformofcreativeexpression.TheJewelleryHistorianisoneofthe
few free e-magazines worldwide, related to jewellery & timepieces, to offer for free such a quality of editorial line and
photographytoitsreaders.Allthisismadewithnofinancialsupportfromanyoneanditwillcontinuetobemadeforaslongas
we will be able to do it.
Passion
Jewellery Historian 009
10. Jewellery Historian010
issue globe
Meghna PATEL
Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by designer Meghna
Patel. After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011,
Patel transitioned into fine jewelry 2014. Inspired by her Indian
heritage, Patel uses bold precious stones, layering her designs
with her signature diamond pave arches. Overall, Patel’s
process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration
for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight,
her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her
life from the places she has lived and traveled.
GUMUCHIAN
Gumuchian is a gem of a jewelry
collection that’s treasured by the
cognoscenti who can spot true
European craftsmanship and superior
design a mile away. Owned and
operated with meticulous attention
to quality by Anita Gumuchian and
daughters Myriam and Patricia, this
boutique company is proud to do it all,
from the selection of brilliant
diamonds through their family-run
offices in Antwerp, to the actual
manufacturing in the heart of New
York.
In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and
artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all
aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.
11. Jewellery Historian 011
CHIMENTO
Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been
associated with unique and exclusive
creations using gold as the undisputed
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of
creativity, craftsmanship and attention to
detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have
become synonym with top quality 18k
gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO
collections are a perfect blend of tradition
and design, setting the new classic
benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their
elegant, refined and contemporary style.
Eva KOUNTOURAKI
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and
jewelers. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned
by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world
famous Gemological Institute of America.
Eva received special training from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more
than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA,
transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from
around world.
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva
Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month,
discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of
gems". In this issue discover and learn about the amethyst.
MOUSSON ATELIER
Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia.
Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with
over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting
unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family
tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern &
classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality
are the key principles of the company. They pay great
importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in
its beauty.
15. Brilliance & Elegance
Baselworld 2015
Baselworld, the most highly acclaimed
show in the world of timepieces and
jewellery is also the venue where all the
key global players of the diamonds,
pearls and gemstones industry unite
under one roof to display their most
spectacular items.
AttheupcomingBaselworld2015,from
March 19 to March 26, 2015, the crème
de la crème of diamonds, gemstones
and pearls will be showcased for the
world's top jewellers, designers and
manufacturers to discover.
Baselworldhasbecomethelifebloodof
the watch and jewellery industry, and
dominates the annual schedule of
luxury brands.
The worldwide impact of the show is
tremendous and brands presenting
their products at Baselworld, are sure
that the most important buyers from all
over the world will be there to see them.
Baselworld is poised once again to
capture the hearts and minds of
everyone interested in the global
watch and jewellery industry. With
around 1,500 prestigious brands
representing every sector expected to
participate, Baselworld 2015 will bring
together all the key players from
watchmakers to jewellers, from
diamond,pearlandgemstonedealers
through to machinery manufacturers
and other suppliers.
Itisthesinglemostimportanteventthat
helps companies strengthen their
business and establish new
partnerships, sign important contracts
or diversify their supply chain.
The 2014 edition attracted more than
1,500 exhibitors from 40 countries,
150,000 visitors from 100 countries and
4,000 journalists from 70 countries.
The big diversity attendees coming
from all five continents is what makes
the exhibition tick. More importantly
the world`s most renowned brands
showcase their collections exclusively
at Baselworld and do not attend any
other exhibitions, further adding value
to visiting professionals and company
representatives.
Baselworld 2015
March 19 to March 26, 2015
Messe Basel, Switzerland
Opening times:
Daily from 9 am to 6 pm
(except Thursday, March 26: 9 am to 4 pm)
Jewellery Historian 015
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld
PhotocourtesyofBaselworld
22. Business
In his new global role, Bennett — who is based in Geneva, Switzerland,
will help design and implement a strategy of continued expansion and
business development for the jewelry branch of the auction house.
Jewelry sales at Sotheby’s in 2014 garnered $603 million, the highest
annual total for the category ever. It also marked the third year in a row
of record jewelry sales for Sotheby’s.
SOTHEBY'S appoints
David Bennett
Jewelry Division Chairman
Jewellery Historian022
24. Daryl Wickstrom, International Managing Director of
Sotheby’s Jewellery & Watch Divisions, on March 5,
2015 announcedtheappointmentofDavidBennettto
the newly- created position of Worldwide Chairman of
Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division.
Mr. Wickstrom commented: “David Bennett has led
Sotheby’sjewellerysalesinEuropetoanincrediblelistof
historic results over the course of his four decades with
the Company. He is celebrated and respected
throughout this field for his impressive scholarship,
extensive knowledge of jewellery and precious stones,
and consummate skills as an auctioneer. Sotheby’s
global sales of jewellery are experiencing some of the
fastest growth among the many collecting categories
we offer, and in this new global role David will help
design and implement a strategy for the continued
expansion and development of this critical arm of our
business. With the support of a network of jewellery
expertsthatisunparalleledintheauctionmarket,ledby
Lisa Hubbard, Chairman North & South America,
Sotheby’s Jewellery, Quek Chin Yeow, Chairman Asia,
Sotheby’s Jewellery, and Patti Wong, Chairman of
Sotheby’s Diamonds, the Company stands in a unique
position to serve our rapidly-expanding client base.”
Mr. Bennett said: “Sotheby’s jewellery sales are in an
excellent position to experience continued growth
beyond our recent record results, which culminated in
2014 with our highest-ever annual total of more than
$600 million in sales. Our client base is constantly
expanding – buyers from more than 74 countries
participated in our auctions last year in New York,
Geneva, Hong Kong and London, with a quarter of all
biddersparticipatinginaSotheby’sauctionfortheirfirst
time. I look forward to working with Lisa, Chin Yeow,
Patti, and our international senior specialist team to
continue building an exciting, diverse and innovative
jewellerybusinessthatservesbothnewandestablished
collectors and influential members of the trade on a
global basis."
Under Mr. Bennett’s leadership, Sotheby’s Geneva has
presented many jewels of supreme historical
importance, among them the legendary “Beau
Sancy”, a diamond that had once graced the
collection of Henry IV of France, and the magnificent
emeraldanddiamondtiaraformerlyinthecollectionof
PrincessKatharinaHenckelvonDonnersmarck.Heisthe
co-author, with Daniela Mascetti, of the celebrated
reference book Understanding Jewellery, in print since
1989, and Celebrating Jewellery (2012).
SOTHEBY'S app
oints
David Bennett
Jewelry Division
Chairman
Jewellery Historian024
PhotocourtesyofSotheby's
25. In the Geneva-based
role, Bennett will design
and implement a
strategy for the
continued expansion
and development of
Sotheby’s global jewelry
business, which the
auction house says is
one of its fastest
growing categories,
achieving $603 million in
sales in 2014.
During his tenure, Mr. Bennett has presided over many record-breaking
sales, including the “Graff Pink” that set the current auction record for
any diamond and any jewel when it sold for $46.2 million in November
2010, as well as an extraordinary seven 100+ carat diamonds. He has
beeninstrumentalinpresentingmanyofSotheby’smosticonicjewellery
auctions, including the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor (1987), the
PrincelyCollectionsofThurnandTaxis(1992),andthecollectionsofAva
Gardner, H.H. Begum Sultan Mohamed Shah Aga Khan, Maria Callas,
Gina Lollobrigida and, most recently, Dimitri Mavrommatis.
Jewellery Historian 025
InfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby'sInfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby's
42. Jewellery Historian042
Overall, Patel’s process is
simple and organic.
Receiving constant
inspiration for her designs
through anything she falls in
with at first sight, her pieces
embody all the little elements
that come into her life from
the places she has lived and
traveled.
47. C H I M E N T O
Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility
Jewellery Historian 047
Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with
unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity,
craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations
have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian
Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of
tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of
Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style.
88. MOUSSON ATELIER
Jewellery Historian088
Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little
rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the
beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in
what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of
them, making them a contemporary brand of Haute
Joaillerie.
cover story
90. Jewellery Historian090
Each bright personality is beautiful in
its uniqueness. We appreciate those
who can bravely make a statement
and does not hesitate to reveal his or
her identity every second. Mousson
Atelierjewelleryisunique,originaland
attractive - worthy setting for the
extraordinary person.
Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008
in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was
born as a result of an alliance of
professionals with over 20 years
experience in creating jewelry and
collecting unique gemstones.
Today Mousson Atelier keeps the
family tradition of innovation and
creates jewelry in a modern & classic
style. Innovation in design and
manufacturing quality are the key
principles of the company. We pay
great importance to creating
jewellery that is valuable ultimately in
its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a
search, it's always a little rebellion. For
this reason at Mousson Atelier they
have abandoned the beaten path
and stereotypes, and became
innovators in what they do. Creativity
has become an integral part of them,
and it allows them to give rise to more
and more new images!
A flash of inspiration allows them to
leave the narrow frames of the
ordinary life. They are able to find
something beautiful in everything -
and show it to others. Their creations
are a synonym of beauty, setted in
precious metals and stones.
They select the highest quality
materials:18 K gold of different colors,
precious stones of various shapes,
colors, sizes and cuts. Together these
componentsturnintoawidevarietyof
unique creatures. The flawless
creationofthejewelleryistheproduct
of advanced technologies of jewelry
industry & high-grade hand work.
At the Jewellery Historian we are
honored to showcase their unique
creations.
M O U S S O N A T E L I E R
Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
92. Jewellery Historian092
Life is limitless and
always unexpected.
This is fully reflected
in the Mousson Atelier
collections - a hymn to
nature and life.
95. Jewellery Historian 095
A flash of inspiration allows
Mousson Atelier to leave the
narrow frames of the ordinary
life. They are able to find
something beautiful in
everything – and show it to
others. Their creations are
beauty, set in precious metals
and stones.
98. Jewellery Historian098
Mousson Atelier is
definitely able to find
something beautiful in
everything - and show it
to others with a creation
of perfection.
101. Jewellery Historian 101
Perfection reflects in the
aesthetic sense of the
creations by Mousson.
Such a notable work, and
marvelous collections,
that you desire them all.
105. Jewellery Historian 105
Mousson Atelier
collections live and
constantly update. They
feature exclusive
jewellery pieces &
stylish elegant
products that are
available to a wide
audience with respect to
each bright personality
& its uniqueness.
107. Jewellery Historian 107
At Mousson Atelier,
collections are the expert
craftsmanship of the past and
high-tech processes that look
to the future.
108. Jewellery Historian108
The flawless creation of the
jewellery is the product of
advanced technologies of
jewellery industry, the best
traditional techniques & high-
grade hand work.
111. Jewellery Historian 111
Each piece in theMousson
Atelier's Haute Joaillerie
collection is a unique work of
jewellery art, that you will not find
anywhere in the world! These
pieces not only have high design
value but also an investment
appeal.
115. Jewellery Historian 115
At Mousson Atelier, you can find
the colors of every season in their
unique jewelry pieces! Select the set
of your favorite color combination
but remember - the seasons change
and jewelry stays forever.
119. Jewellery Historian 119
Mousson Atelier
jewellery is unique,
original and
attractive - worthy
setting for the
extraordinary
person.
120. Jewellery Historian120
Mousson Atelier keeps
the family tradition of
innovation and creates
jewelry in a modern &
classic style, ultimately
in its beauty.
123. Jewellery Historian 123
Mousson Atelier – is a
unique jewelry design
brand, producing
jewelry of creative
design and high
quality, as only few
brands worldwide do.
124. Jewellery Historian124
Mousson Atelier is
passionate about creating
stunning jewellery for their
clientele; they consider
themselves your partner.
they consider a client’s
success is their best reward.
126. Subscribe for FREE
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130. Jewellery Historian130
As the proverb rightly says, one swallow does not
make a summer. Yet, is it not flowers that
mesmerise and herald the arrival of warm
weather? Flora, the Roman goddess of spring
and vegetation, is one of the most important
Roman deities. Every year, a great festival was
held in her honour across the Empire to
encourage a bountiful harvest.
Inspired by these Floralia festivals, Adler’s new
collection breathes life into delicate, twinkling
buds. Each one blooms forth, revealing its
colourful attire and unique beauty with each
passing day. The magic emanating from these
precious bouquets can be perceived in the
details: sapphire, ruby, and yellow and white
diamond petals shine clear and bright, adorning
several sets of jewellery. The necklaces, earrings
and rings are perceptively set; composed of a
dozenstones,theseblossomingjewelscanreach
up to thirty carats, with cuts that vary between
round, pear and oval.
The fruit of artisanal expertise, these 18kt white-
gold creations set with exceptional gemstones
blossom at a woman’s touch and give rise to
spring on Earth.
T h e f r u i t o f a r t i s a n a l e x p e r t i s e
138. Jewellery Historian138
Gold pin with amethyst
by Jean Baptiste Bonnard,
c. 1824 - c. 1829
J.G. de Groot Jamin Bequest, Amsterdam
Photo courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
139. Dionysus was the god of wine and fertility in
ancient Greece, and just like the wine he
represented, he had a dual nature. On one
side he would bring joy and divine ecstasy
and on the other side he would be brutal with
a violent rage. One of those “angry” days
when he was enraged with the mortals, he
swore that he would release his tigers
against the first human he would encounter.
This is when he met Amethystos, a young and
beautiful maiden, on her way to Diana’s
temple. When the goddess saw the fierce
animals running towards the girl, she
instantly transformed her into a statue of
colorless quartz in order to protect her.
Dionysus awoke from the fierce rage he has
fallen into, realized what he has done, and
ashamed of his action he wept tears of wine
over the statue. His tears stained the quartz
and gave it a purple colour, creating the
gemstone Amethyst.
Ancient civilizations praised amethysts,
sometimes even more than other expensive
gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink
wine from amethyst-laden cups as they
thought that the gems would protect them
from getting drunk and intoxicated.
Actually, the term amethyst means not-
drunk, sober. It was said that St. Valentine
wore a ring that featured an amethyst with a
carved cupid in it, while we meet amethysts
in many religious jewelry, still today, as
purple is thought to be the colour of Jesus
Christ. Biblical references mention that
amethyst is one of the twelve gems found in
Aaron’s breastplate and that the twelfth
foundation of the Holy City was built on
amethyst. Amethysts are also protagonists in
many royal regalia, like the beautiful
amethyst tiara of Queen Mary of England
and the Napoleonic amethyst parure of
Queen Josephine of Leuchtenberg. >
Amethyst
Jewellery Historian 139
The unique breathtaking beauty of gems
by Eva Kountouraki
142. Jewellery Historian142
“Ancient civilizations praised amethysts,
sometimes even more than other expensive
gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink
wine from amethyst-laden cups as they
thought that the gems would protect them from
getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the
term amethyst means not-drunk, sober.”
This amazing Kara Ross cuff bracelet,
has been previously shown in our issue 3
146. Jewellery Historian146
Our Faves
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery
for you to choose , enabling you to add a
sophisticated, elegant touch to the most
important times of your life. In this issue we
invite you in our "Jardin Secret".