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Vietnam Apparel Industry More
Competitive Than Bangladesh : Report
I
n terms of product quality, lead time, and
sustainability, Bangladesh's clothing sec-
tor is not as good as its neck-and-neck
market peer Vietnam, according to a recent
World Trade Organisation (WTO) competi-
tiveness report, as Dhaka scores remark-
ably lower than Hanoi on ten indices out of
a total of twelve.
A comparison of lead times reveals that
Vietnam is better able in sourcing raw mate-
rials, according to the report, and also can
release the imported consignment at its
ports within 24 hours.
In contrast, Bangladesh takes 48 hours
to one month to release raw material
imports for the apparel industry, said local
garment factory owners. They said
Vietnam's fashion industry on the ten leading indices logs at least one score
ahead of Bangladesh, while the gaps are 1.5 and 2 respectively on
sustainability and political stability.
...Contd. On Page 4
FEBRUARY, 2022 PAGES 24
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2
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Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 3
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Cover Story Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
4
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Vietnam Apparel Industry More...
Vietnamese workers are 10%-15% more efficient in manufacturing,
while the country can deliver the final product to European buyers
10-15 days earlier than Bangladesh.
Then comes the shipment time. Vietnam directly sends the prod-
ucts to the buyers from its seaports, but Bangladesh cannot. Due to
the unavailability of a deep-sea port, feeder vessels have to take the
products to countries such as Singapore and Sri Lanka, where the
products are transferred to mother vessels for shipment to Europe
and the USA.
Other major gauges of the recent WTO report, titled, Textiles and
clothing in Asian graduating LDCs: Challenges and options – pre-
pared after surveying at least 150 exporters and 30 global brands
and retailers – are ability to create value-added products, innovation,
efficiency, flexibility of order quantity, financial stability and political
stability.
Vietnam's fashion industry on the ten leading indices logs at least
one score ahead of Bangladesh, while the gaps are 1.5 and 2
respectively on sustainability and political stability, shows the report.
The report was prepared with data contributed by several UN agen-
cies including the United Nations Conference on Trade and
Development (UNCTAD).
Only on two indicators – price and tariff advantage, Bangladesh
is ahead of Vietnam and China thanks to duty-free access to key
global markets and local cheap labour. The country is a little ahead
in some indicators than three other least developed countries in Asia
including Cambodia, Laos and Nepal.
However, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, vice-president at the BKMEA,
said he does not agree with all the indicators showing Bangladesh
apparel behind Vietnam. None is supposed to be ahead of us in
terms of flexibility of order quantity. We accept orders so flexibly that
buyers can take several thousand pieces to only a few hundred
pieces from us, he claimed.
The BKMEA vice-president also defended the quality of made-in-
Bangladesh products by saying, We manufacture products as buy-
ers want. Since Bangladesh is capable of satisfying the brands with
the quality, the country is getting increasing work orders. He, how-
ever, agreed that Bangladesh has a lot to improve in terms of higher
value addition.
Faruque Hassan, president at the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), too said the
report in some cases surprisingly underrated the progress made by
Bangladesh garment industry over the past decade.
The report mentions environmental compliance related risks as
a downside for sourcing from Bangladesh, while the industry has
made a huge stride to transform workplace safety, workers' wellbe-
ing and environmental sustainability. The rating seems to be inappro-
priate, he noted.
Bangladesh will no longer be entitled for duty-free market access
after 2029, as the country will graduate from least developed coun-
try club in 2026 and its export will enjoy facility extension for anoth-
er three years until 2029.
According to the report, Bangladesh may concede a loss of US$
5.37 billion due to the impact of LDC graduation on export.
Still there will be orders
The WTO report says fashion brands and retailers adopt diverse
sourcing considerations, including cost, speed to market, flexibility,
agility and compliance risks.
With China and Vietnam as critical sourcing bases, fashion
brands mostly see the least developed countries Bangladesh,
Cambodia, Laos and Nepal as part of their diverse sourcing loca-
tions. According to the report, Turkey is another major sourcing des-
tination for European Union-based fashion companies, while EU-
based buyers source fewer complex products (such as dresses and
outerwear) from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Laos and Nepal due to their
limited production capacities.
The report mentions, fashion brands and retailers may still find it
attractive to source from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Laos and Nepal
after their LDC graduation. Major brands and retailers believe LDC
graduation may only modestly affect their sourcing. It also said that
in the next three to five years, they will increase their sourcing from
Bangladesh and Cambodia.
While there may be some hardships, some issues with adjusting
to a world without GSP benefits, the Bangladeshi RMG industry has
been learning lessons from its competitors, investing in the latest
technologies, and environmental and worker safety processes and
standards. Even without the GSP benefits, Bangladeshi RMG export
sector will be a force to reckon with. It’s time to graduate to a more
complex product mix.■
....Contd. From Page 1
LDC graduation presents an opportunity for the countries to position their textile
and clothing sector higher up the global value chain.
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cover Story 5
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A
sian countries graduating from the
category of least developed coun-
tries (LDCs) need to take measures
to bolster their textile and clothing sector,
according to a report prepared by the World
Trade Organization (WTO) and three UN
bodies.
The report titled The Textile and
Clothing Sector in Asian Graduating Least
Developed Countries: Challenges and Ways
Forward, focuses on countries such as
Bangladesh, Laos and Nepal, where the tex-
tile and clothing sector is a major industry
and will be significantly impacted by LDC
graduation.
Combined textile and clothing
exports from LDCs in Asia account for
8% of the global total, which contracted
in 2020 due to the pandemic. The sector
is an important source of employment,
especially for women.
LDC graduation offers opportunity
The report notes that the LDC gradua-
tion presents an opportunity to move higher
up the global value chain. Manufacturers
consulted for the report said they expected
graduation to impact their export perform-
ance. In addition to facing higher tariffs,
most garment manufacturers rely heavily on
imported textiles and will struggle to meet
more restrictive rules of origin criteria after
graduation.
How graduation will affect sourcing
Many major clothing brands and retail-
ers consulted for the report believe that LDC
graduation will only modestly affect their
sourcing and are planning to expand sourc-
ing from graduating LDCs over the next
three to five years.
Workplace safety, working conditions,
environmental compliance, innovation and
speed to market are increasingly becoming
major factors for brands in their long-term
sourcing.
We have consulted many brands and
retailers on their future sourcing plans and
how it affects graduating LDCs. What we
have found is that major buyers are consol-
idating their sourcing portfolio and, increas-
ingly, they are seeking to source from larger,
often multinational apparel manufacturers,
said Matthias Knappe, programme manager
of Fibres, Textiles And Clothing at the
International Trade Centre (ITC).
Bangladesh – A Case Study
● The study notes the lack of export diversi-
fication among the Bangladesh RMG
exporting units and limited market reach.
● More than one-third of the firms ship to 3-
5 countries only, while another 16%
Strengthening Garment Industry Vital For
LDC Graduation: Report
...Contd. On Page 6
Source: EPB
Growth rates of RMG and Non-RMG exports (%)
Cover Story Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
6
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export to 6-10 countries
● Export markets for woven manufacturers
was relatively more diversified than for
knitwear.
● Several firms reported that they were effec-
tively exploring new market opportunities
amongst others – in Brazil, China, India and
South Africa.
● The US is considered the second preferred
country in terms of marketing more prod-
ucts, followed by Japan, Russia, UK,
Canada and Korea.
Product complexity
● Several exporters produce complex items,
which require automated technology, and
versatile worker skills.
● One firm reported producing high-value
denim items which uses low ounce
stretch, sea plastic recycled fabrics, regen-
erated cotton fabrics, jute blended fabrics
and Tencel fibres, explaining its niche mar-
ket advantages.
● 40% of woven manufacturing firms believe
their products are difficult to produce by
other firms and countries.
Technology and skill upgradation
● 85% of sample firms have plans for
upgrading products and processes,
upgrading technology and worker skills.
● Firms are adopting energy saving and GHG
emission reduction technologies, soft-
ware-based production tracing, digitalising
administrative and other operations.
● Many reported producing and marketing
their own designs alongwith supplying the
regular import orders.
● One firm reported producing a complete
pair of denim trousers in 17 minutes, aim-
ing to bring it down to 14 minutes, at par
with global efficiency standards.
LDC graduation preparedness
Currently, Bangladesh enjoys preferential
market access in close to 50 countries. The
loss of tariff preferences after graduation
could thus trigger tremendous competitive-
ness pressure for Bangladesh. Another
important aspect of LDC graduation would be
a constrained policy space to support the
apparel sector.
● Many are of the view that as a bulk produc-
er, Bangladesh has tremendous depth and
competitiveness strength.
● They also believe that buyers probably
drive hard bargains in Bangladesh due to
the preferential tariffs.
● Moreover, business is already improving
due to the US-China trade war.
● Technology upgradation could happen at
the cost of employment generation.
● Seamless infrastructure is of course, much
needed, to reduce cost of doing business.
● Exporters could benefit from extended
transition period for graduating LDCs,
securing preferential trade deals. ■
Strengthening Garment Industry...
....Contd. From Page 5
Source: UNCOMTRADE  ITC Trade Map
Bangladesh'e market share in partner countries, 2000-20 (%)
Export subsidy as % of export earnings (FY2003-FY2019)
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cover Story 7
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Team Group Targets US$ 1 Billion
Export By 2026
T
eam Group, a leading garment
exporter, has targeted to export
goods worth US$ 1 billion by
2026, when Bangladesh is scheduled to
officially make the United Nations status
graduation from a least developed to a
developing country.
To put this into perspective,
Bangladesh earned US$ 4.85 billion
from merchandise exports in January
with apparel shipments accounting for
about 85% of it.
Apart from manufacturing textile and
clothing, the conglomerate has a gar-
ment buying house, a pharmaceutical
company and real estate development
firm. Among the ventures, the garment
buying house's exports last year stood
at US$ 270 million, said Abdullah Hil
Rakib, managing director of Team
Group.
Last year, the group's 4A Yarn
Dyeing exported garments worth US$
36 million and at the end of the current
year, Rakib expects to attain US$ 70
million. I am very much hopeful that
both the pharmaceuticals and buying
house would be very important compo-
nents in achieving the US$ 1 billion tar-
get, he said.
The group has been preparing for
the graduation challenges, such as ero-
sion of trade preferences, so that its
exports maintain robust growth. Mainly
producing outerwear for customers in
Europe and the US, 4A Yarn Dyeing has
made strong improvements in compli-
ance to laws and diversified its produc-
tion base, taking on high-end value
added garment items so that buyers pay
better prices.
As a result, almost all important
global clothing retailers and brands
have been placing work orders in bulk
quantity with 4A Yarn Dyeing. It has also
received the United States Green
Building Council's Leadership in Energy
and Environmental Design certification
of platinum standard.
Nearly all of the factory's 7,000
workers stay near the production facili-
ty at Kaichabari, Banchabarri, Baipail in
Savar under Dhaka district. So coming
to work does not require transportation
on vehicles, which helped reduced car-
bon emissions, said Rakib.
The factory is able to harvest 86.3%
of the rain that falls on it premises while
solar panels, LED lights and architectur-
al changes making better use of sunlight
saves up on around 50% in energy use.
With the higher inflow of work
orders from international retailers and
brands, Team Group is going for
a massive expansion of capacity, said
Rakib.
Currently, the factory's production
runs on a five lakh square feet space,
creating mainly outerwear for brands
like Guess, Next, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin
Klein, s. Oliver and many more
European and American retailers and
brands.
By 2025, the group plans on open-
ing another factory of the same size just
near the current one. The factory being
planned will mainly produce manmade
fibres to reduce import dependence on
China, India and other countries.
Rakib said the next business of
Bangladesh would be of manmade fibre
and the group would mainly produce the
garment items out of manmade fibre.
The company is also upgrading
machines to achieve higher productivity,
and finer production.
Rakib has been transforming the
production facility mainly targeting the
LDC graduation as the country will not
be able to enjoy the GSP benefit after
the graduation.
I have been gearing up my produc-
tion facility in such a way so that the
retailers and brands cannot ask any
question regarding the compliances and
production facilities, for bringing effi-
ciency and for getting better prices in
the time of fierce competition after the
graduation, Rakib said. ■
“
By 2025, Team Group plans on doubling its pro-
duction capacity, focussing on production of man-
made fibres and apparel. The company has begun
upgrading machines to achieve higher productivity,
and finer production. This is in preparation for
Bangladesh’s LDC graduation when many trade
preferences will disappear.
“
Logistics Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
8
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T
he container ship Songa Cheetah left
the Chattogram port for the Port of
Ravenna in Italy with 952 TEUs
(Twenty-Foot Equivalent Units) of export
goods last week. This is the first time a ship
will directly carry goods from the
Chattogram port to a European port, taking
only 16 days.
About 98% of the export products on
Songa Cheetah are readymade garments
and the remaining 2% are handicrafts,
leather and jute products. Once the goods
reach the Port of Ravenna, they will be deliv-
ered to various destinations in Europe as per
the buyers' demand, said Mohammed
Rashed, chairman of Reliance Shipping and
Logistics Limited.
According to shipping agents, current-
ly, feeder vessels first transport
Bangladeshi goods from the Chattogram
port to transhipment ports – Colombo,
Singapore, and Tanjung Pelepas and Port
Klang of Malaysia – and some ports in
China. There, the containers are loaded
onto bigger vessels before they are sent to
their final destinations in Europe. It takes
around 40 days to carry goods from
Bangladesh to Italy in this way.
The new direct shipping route between
Bangladesh and Italy will decrease the trans-
portation time by around 24 days and save
costs by 40%.
Italian shipping company Kalypso
Compagnia di Navigazione has introduced
the direct service with two vessels: Songa
Cheetah and Cape Flores. The Cape Flores
arrived at the Chattogram port on 24
December 2021 with empty containers but
did not carry any exports on the way back
to Europe.
Considering the importance of garment
exports, the Chattogram Port Authority will
prioritise ships on Italy-Bangladesh route in
providing facilities, including berthing and
key gantry crane, said Rear Admiral M
Shahjahan, Chairman, Chattogram Port
Authority, at the inauguration of the
Bangladesh-Italy direct route.
The direct shipping route has started a
landmark chapter in our economy. If other
shipping lines want to launch such a direct
route, the port authorities will extend all pos-
sible cooperation, he added.
Mahbubul Alam, President, Chattogram
Chamber of Commerce and Industry, said,
Bangladesh would be ahead of Vietnam in
terms of garment exports if direct container
shipping on the Italy-Bangladesh route can
be kept uninterrupted because it will save
lead time and cost. ■
D
anish shipping company Maersk Bangladesh, in part-
nership with Ispahani Summit Alliance Terminals
Limited (ISATL), is all set to build a 200,000 sq. ft
custom bonded warehouse in the port city of Chittagong even
as the new warehouse will double the existing capacity at
ISATL and add around 8% additional space to the existing
ecosystem in Chittagong.
According to reports, construction of the new CFS has
already started and is expected to be completed by the end of
2022 in a phased manner. Said Angshuman Mustafi,
Managing Director of Maersk Bangladesh, “Maersk’s commit-
ment to connect and simplify our customers’ supply chains
means that we look at long-term solutions.” Maersk will also,
reportedly, offer customers barcode and RFID scanning,
Garment on Hanger facility, sorting, product audit, labelling,
etc. Further, the new facility is, reportedly, being built by
benchmarking international best practices in terms of safety
and other compliance guidelines. ■
Direct Freight Route To Europe Starts As
Songa Cheetah Leaves Ctg
Maersk To Build Warehouse In
Chittagong: Reports
The new direct route will decrease transportation time by around 24 days,
and save costs by 40%
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 corporate update 9
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Robintex’s Mega Solar
Rooftop Project
MJ Group Adopts H2H
Solution
R
obintex Group, a Germany-
Bangladesh joint venture,
has set up the country’s
largest industrial solar rooftop
project. Robintex has set up a
mega 3.2 MWp rooftop solar plant,
on its 11 buildings. The company
has partnered with Joules Power
Ltd (JPL).
With this mega solar power
plant, it expects to reduce GHG
emission at least by 40% and off-
set 81,446 tons of carbon emis-
sions during the plant’s 20 years
of operation.
Renewable energy makes busi-
ness sense as power supply and
price is unstable in the country.
More importantly, the company
realises the urgent need to adopt
practices that save the environ-
ment. The current project will meet
almost 50% of the company’s
daily power demand. ■
H
SBC Bangladesh has
established a Host-to-Host
Integration (H2H) solution
for MJ Group, one of the largest
RMG manufacturers in the coun-
try.
The digital service will enable
MJ Group to process a variety of
local payments directly from their
ERP (Enterprise Resource
Planning) system, said a press
release.
Inauguration of the virtual
event was attended by MJ Group
Managing Director Salahuddin
Ahmed, HSBC Bangladesh
Country Head of Wholesale
Banking Kevin Green and seniors
from both the organisations.
Our company continuously
welcomes value addition for the
betterment of business so that we
can pass on the benefits to the
society. HSBC's paperless solution
will help MJ Group significantly
to fullfil our objective, MJ Group
Managing Director Salahuddin
Ahmed said.
He also appreciated the bank's
support and smooth implementa-
tion within the planned turnaround
time.
Customers' expectations and
technology capability are evolving
at speed, so we work in agile, cus-
tomer-focussed, cross-functional
teams to test, learn and launch
new products and features at a
faster pace. With our innovative
financial solutions, I am sure that
MJ's H2H connectivity will
ensure a seamless end-to-end
flow in their working capital man-
agement, said HSBC Bangladesh
Country Head of Wholesale
Banking Kevin Green ■
Paramount Textile To Raise
Tk 1.50 Bln Through
Preference Shares
Paramount Textile, a sister concern of Paramount
Group, has decided to issue 150 million fully
redeemable non-convertible cumulative preference
shares, to raise funds worth Tk 1.50 billion for five-
year tenure, the company said in a filing. The funds
will be utilised for the upcoming project expansion
and to pay-off a portion of high-cost short term
loan.
Ring Shine Textiles Needs
Tk 30 Cr To Stay Afloat
Ring Shine Textiles has sought BSEC’s
approval to utilise Tk 30 crore of its IPO funds to
run the business. It has utilised Tk 90 crore of its
Tk 150 crore in IPO funds, raised upon listing on
the stock exchanges in 2019. The company spent
Tk 50 crore on debt servicing and Tk 40 crore on
its factory which was out of operation for a long
time.
CA Textiles To Issue New
Shares To Alif Group
Troubled CA Textiles wants to increase its
paid-up capital by Tk 50 crore through issuing new
shares to Alif Group, for reopening its factory
which has not been in operation for more than four
years. The company will seek approval from its
shareholders in its EGM on March 30.
Alltex Shares Jump 19% On
Sudden Profit
The troubled home textile exporter, which had
been consistently incurring huge losses since
2017, posted Tk 1.36 in earnings per share (EPS)
for the second quarter of the current fiscal year.
The company reported profits for the October-
December quarter alongside a meagre 1% cash
dividend only for the general shareholders. ■
News In Brief
Cotton Update Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
10
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Cotton Prices To Pick Up 5% In 2022 On
Rising Demand, Limited Crops In India, US
A
new report from IndexBox -
World - Cotton Lint - Market
Analysis, Forecast, Size, Trends
and Insights, estimates a 5% increase in
global cotton prices in 2022. Here is a
summary of the report's key findings.
In 2022, cotton prices are expected
to gain 5% y/y, as last year's ending
stocks are rapidly reduced amid strong
global demand outpacing available sup-
ply. Last year, the average cotton price
soared by 41% y/y to US$ 2.23 per
kg. In 2021, the average cotton
price surged by 41% y/y to US$ 2.23
per kg.
Despite the global cotton production
rebounded after a 2020's drop last year,
reaching the pre-pandemic level of 26.3
million tonnes, growing demand out-
strips supply. In H1 2022, cotton prices
are projected to increase, as global pro-
duction at the beginning of the year is
lower than in the previous months due
to smaller crops in India and the US.
This year, the average annual cotton
price is expected to pick up 5% y/y to
approx. US$ 2.34 per kg. Instigated by
boosting demand and high domestic
cotton prices, China is forecast to ramp
up imports sharply, also stimulating the
price rally.
Global Cotton Lint Exports by Country
In 2020, the amount of cotton lint
exported worldwide was estimated at
9.4 million tonnes, picking up by 5%
compared with the previous year's fig-
ure. In value terms, supplies contracted
to US$ 14.6 billion (IndexBox esti-
mates). The US (3.8M tonnes) repre-
sented the major exporter of cotton lint,
mixing up 41% of total exports. Brazil
(2.1M tonnes) held the second position
in the ranking, distantly followed by
India (960K tonnes). All these countries
together held near 33% share of total
supplies.
Greece (289K tonnes), Benin (280K
tonnes), Nigeria (212K tonnes),
Australia (170K tonnes) and Burkina
Faso (167K tonnes) followed a long way
behind the leaders. In 2020, the most
notable rate of growth in terms of ship-
ments amongst the key exporting coun-
tries was attained by India (+55.9% per
year), while exports for the other global
leaders experienced more modest
paces of growth. In value terms, the US
($6B), Brazil ($3.2B) and India ($1.4B)
appeared to be the countries with the
highest levels of exports in 2020, with a
combined 73% share of global supplies.
Turkey’s cotton textile and product
exports spur record consumption
Turkey’s 2021/22 cotton consump-
tion is forecast at a record 8.5 million
bales and use is expected to grow more
than 10%, well above the 3% consump-
tion growth forecast for the world.
Turkey is forecast to contribute a
significant portion of the world’s record
2021/22 consumption, behind only
India in its year-over-year increase of
0.8 million bales. Logistical advantages,
changes in global retailers’ sourcing
strategies, and duty-free access to the
European Union (EU) are supporting
robust cotton product and textile
exports.
Despite global issues with ocean
freight, Turkey’s location is ideal relative
to other cotton product and textile
exporters. Turkey is near European and
Middle East markets, with the EU being
the world’s second largest importer of
cotton products. Turkish exporters can
also ship by rail or truck versus relying
solely on ocean transit. Additionally,
Turkey’s Customs Union with the EU
means that most textiles and clothing
products can be exported duty-free to
the EU and European Free Trade
Association countries.
Outside of logistics, EU and US
retailers are actively restructuring their
supply chains to rely less on manufac-
turers in Asia (particularly China). The
United States is the world’s largest
importer of cotton products, and US
...Contd. On Page 11
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cotton Update 11
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Cotton Prices To Pick Up 5% In 2022...
Indian Industry Demands Duty-Free Cotton
Import With Quantitative Restrictions
T
he textile and clothing industry has
sought duty-free import of cotton
with quantitative restrictions.
Textile machinery manufacturers are
delivering almost two lakh spindles a
month, said T. Rajkumar, chairman of
Confederation of Indian Textile Industry.
This means that substantial addition of
production capacity has been taking
place. Thus, cotton consumption by tex-
tile mills during the current cotton sea-
son, which ends on September 30, is
likely to be higher at close to 340 lakh
bales while cotton production is estimat-
ed to be almost 350 lakh bales, com-
pared with 360 lakh bales in the previous
season.
Every year, 40-45 lakh bales turn out
to be of poor quality, which is unusable.
This year, the yield is said to be lower,
apart from quality issues. Cotton prices
have reached Rs 80,000 a candy, rising
from Rs 43,300 in January 2021 and Rs
57,000 a candy on October 1, 2021.
There is hardly any cotton arriving at the
markets, according to Ravi Sam, chair-
man, Southern India Mills’ Association.
“The best of mills have just one-and-
a-half months’ cotton stock,” he added.
The Centre must permit 30 lakh bales of
duty-free import of cotton for April-
September, and that too only by end-
users of cotton, Rajkumar urged.
Mills have to start booking cotton
now to ensure shipments in April-May.
“If this is not done, textile industry will
face a disaster in March-April,” Sam
said. Atul Ganatra, president, Cotton
Association of India, said there are indi-
cations that the area under cotton would
increase 20-25% for the next season.
The government should increase the
minimum support price for extra long
staple varieties by 25% and for other
varieties by only 3-5 %. ■
retailers are seeking to comply with the
US Withhold Release Order (WRO) on
products containing any derivative of
Xinjiang cotton. Compared with China
and other major exporting countries in
South and Southeast Asia (e.g.,
Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia),
Turkey’s supply chain from lint to fin-
ished fabric is mostly absent of
Xinjiang lint.
Turkey cotton product and textile
exports are booming despite wide-
spread economic concerns. These
include exchange rate fluctuations, ris-
ing energy costs, electricity cuts, cotton
prices more than doubling (in local cur-
rency), and slower tourist activity (a
significant contributor to domestic eco-
nomic growth).
Although the lira’s plunge makes
cotton lint imports and other inputs
more expensive, the lower-valued cur-
rency also makes textile and product
exports more affordable for foreign buy-
ers. Despite these economic head-
winds, lower priced exports continue to
surge. With global retailers seeking
alternative sources outside Asia and
with Turkey’s logistical advantages,
these factors provide a strong founda-
tion for 2021/22 consumption and
beyond
2021/22 outlook
Global production is lowered from
last month with smaller crops in India
and Tanzania. Use is mostly unchanged
and ending stocks are down more than
700,000 bales for the second consecu-
tive month.
Global trade is down slightly with
lower US exports and China imports for
the second consecutive month.
US production is unchanged at 17.6
million bales. Exports are reduced for
the second consecutive month to 14.8
million bales, and the US season-aver-
age farm price is unchanged at 90 cents
per pound.
Global cotton prices rose since last
month’s WASDE with the A-Index
exceeding 140 cents per pound, more
than 50 cents above the same period
last year.
Brazil witnessed the most significant
rise this month, climbing over 14 cents,
owing to rapidly rising exports. Strong
export sales, logistical constraints, and
unfixed mill positions continue to sup-
port prices on the Intercontinental
Exchange. Spot prices in China were
marginally higher amid the slowdown
from Lunar New Year. The A-Index is
roughly 20 cents lower than domestic
prices in China, compared with 30
cents last month, as the bulk of
classed newcrop enters the domestic
market. ■
....Contd. From Page 10
International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
12
www.TextileExcellence.com
India, UAE Finalise Free Trade Pact
U
nited Arab Emirates (UAE) could
once again become India’s largest
apparel market, following the signing
of the free trade agreement between the two
countries. India may get duty concessions
on textiles and apparel, gold jewellery, engi-
neering goods, food products, and other
labour-intensive sectors under
the free trade agreement (FTA) with the UAE.
The deal will not only boost India’s
exports, but also facilitate easier movement
of Indian workers and professionals to the
UAE. It is also expected to give Indian
industry access to other markets in the
region.
The FTA negotiations had started in
September 2021. Engineering exports to the
UAE are expected to double in the next five
years from the current US$ 4-5 billion and
create 100,000 jobs on account of tariff
concessions.
India’s exports to the UAE grew by 77%
year-on-year in April-December 2021 to
US$ 20 billion, accounting for 6.6% of
India’s total outbound shipments.
Experts said the deal is expected to
boost job creation and economic growth,
provide cheaper products to Indian con-
sumers and lead to lower input costs for
many products. ■
Duty concessions soon on textiles, apparel, jewellery, engineering
goods, food products.
Indian TC May Gain Duty-Free
Entry Into Australia
US Terminates AGOA Programme for
Ethiopia, Mali, Guinea
I
n lieu of opening up India's dairy and agri-
culture industries through low or zero tar-
iffs, Australia has offered tariff cuts on
99% of its traded items with India under the
proposed bilateral free trade settlement.
India is keen on dairy products, cereals,
oilseeds, and processed foods, which
Canberra is eager to sell. By the end of this
month, the two sides hope to have reached
an interim deal, termed early harvest in
trade parlance.
Australia has stated that their import
tariffs will be zero on 99% of products at the
time the deal enters into force, an official
said.
India's exports to Australia in FY21
reached US$ 4.04 billion, including refined
petroleum, pharmaceuticals, railway auto-
mobiles including hovertrains, gems, and
jewels, textile goods, while imports amount-
ed to US$ 8.24 billion. Imports included
coals, ores and extracts, gold, greens, wool,
fruits and nuts, and lentils.
Indian exports of agriculture products,
materials, clothing, footwear, and machine
tools, among other things, may be eligible
for zero-duty advantages.
Commerce and Trade Minister Piyush
Goyal indicated that the interim deal with
Australia will cover huge areas of interest,
notably our labour-oriented industries like as
textiles,?footwear,? pharma,??leather prod-
ucts, and agricultural products. The two
sides agreed to finalise a long-stalled FTA
known as a comprehensive financial coop-
eration settlement?by the end of 2022. ■
T
he United States has terminated
Ethiopia, Mali and Guinea from the
AGOA trade preference pro-
gramme due to actions taken by each of
their governments in violation of the
AGOA Statute. The Biden-Harris
Administration is deeply concerned by
the unconstitutional change in govern-
ments in both Guinea and Mali, and by
the gross violations of internationally
recognised human rights being perpe-
trated by the Government of Ethiopia and
other parties amid the widening conflict
in northern Ethiopia. Each country has
clear benchmarks for a pathway toward
reinstatement and the Administration will
work with their governments to achieve
that objective. ■
Australia grants tariff exemptions on 99% Indian imports
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 13
www.TextileExcellence.com
International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
14
www.TextileExcellence.com
China Explores FTA With Gulf
Cooperation Council
C
hina recently hosted the foreign
ministers from major oil produc-
ers and exporters in the Middle
East to discuss boosting energy ties
and a possible free trade agreement.
Beijing’s concerns with the unrest in
central Asian oil producer Kazakhstan
were also discussed.
The Gulf countries and China will be
seeking to progress negotiations over a
free trade agreement (FTA) and cooper-
ation in areas including energy. The
GCC includes Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman,
Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United
Arab Emirates (UAE).
China-GCC FTA negotiations had
started in 2004.
To date, China and the GCC have
held five rounds of negotiations and
have reached agreement on the majori-
ty of issues concerning trade in goods,
with the concentration being on energy
related products, although not exclu-
sively. Negotiations on trade in services
have also been launched.
China has been the largest export
market for GCC countries since 2012
and has upgraded relations with all of
them to ‘strategic economic partner-
ships’ and all have joined the Belt and
Road Initiative.
According to the US Department of
Commerce, by 2030, China will import
almost 80% of its oil needs, while by
2019, Saudi oil exports to China
increased to 47%.
The RMB possesses an advanced
status in the GCC foreign exchange
markets, and especially in the UAE and
Qatar. In 2018, several of Dubai’s
banks issued international bonds in
RMB.
There are further consolidations.
Saudi Arabia, with their 2030 Vision,
and Kuwait, with their Vision 2035 as
well as Bahrain and Oman’s national
development plans are all aligned
with Belt and Road Initiative develop-
ment. ■
T
extile maker Interloop Ltd has
said it’s going to set up its sixth
hosiery plant in 2023-24, one
year ahead of the original plan, in view
of “increased demand” from global
customers. This would entail an invest-
ment of US$ 100 million.
In a regulatory filing with the
Pakistan Stock Exchange, the company
said its fifth hosiery plant recently
started production and is currently
operating at full capacity. “Despite the
addition of plant 5, the company is
unable to meet the order requirement of
customers.”
“By advancing hosiery plant 6, the
company’s profitability will increase
substantially, which will be helpful for
setting up other projects as
per Vision 2025,” said the regulatory
filing.
The board of Interloop Ltd advised
the company management to “work out
possibilities of arranging new capital by
either bringing in foreign investors or
further issuance of shares through a
right issue”.
According to a stock filing, the firm
plans to begin civil work on an apparel
project with a capital outlay of US$ 100
million for which the company has
secured a Rs 5 billion LTTF, with the
remainder funds coming from internal
cash flow.
Interloop Limited manufactures and
sells socks, leggings, denim, yarn, gar-
ments, and allied products, and also
offers yarn dying services, while pro-
ducing its own electricity. The company
made a profit of Rs 2.69 billion in the
first quarter of 2021-22, up by 94%
year on year. ■
Interloop To Invest US$ 100 Million
In Sixth Hosiery Unit
● Significant breakthroughs expected in
trade, infrastructure and RMB interna-
tionalisation.
● China has been the largest export mar-
ket for GCC countries since 2012 and
is the main oil and commercial partner
to the GCC.
● China has upgraded relations with all of
them to ‘strategic economic partner-
ships’ and all have joined the Belt and
Road Initiative.
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 International trade 15
www.TextileExcellence.com
N
IKE x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple Collection has won
the Best Collaboration by PETA Fashion Awards 2021.
The Nike x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple collaboration was
launched in June 2021 and was comprised of five sneaker
models across eight colourways; the Free Run Trail Premium,
the Air Max 90, the Air Max 95, the Air-Zoom Type and the icon-
ic Air Force 1.
Head of Sales  Business Development at Ananas Anam,
Meliza Ann Mendoza says, “The collection was a result of a
great team effort between everyone involved in the project. We
are delighted to know that the collaboration is being recognised
by PETA because I see this as an important step in working
together to create more impact at scale. We look forward to
building more collaborations in 2022 that will create positive
change within the fashion industry.” ■
NIKE x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple
Collection Wins PETA Fashion Award
T
he FIBRAL Material Alliance is an
international organisation established
by three founders: Dr Carmen Hijosa
from Ananas Anam, Hannes Schoenegger
from Bananatex® and Ricardo Garay of
Regenerate Fashion. It exists to bring
together companies and individuals work-
ing with ancient underrepresented and new
plant-based fibres to give a strong voice,
and to help provide a solution to the textile
crisis.
The textile industry is dominated by a
material mix that relies on fossil-based
resources or fibres that are associated with
intensive water, chemical and land use. In
the face of global climate change, there is a
growing need for alternative materials as
the Earth’s finite resources diminish and
natural systems continue to degrade.
The Fibral™ Material Alliance seeks to
align plant-based fibres under a common
umbrella to provide support and to foster
solutions to heal Earth’s ecosystems and
address the textile industry’s detrimental
impacts through increasing use of Fibral™
Materials.
These natural materials are derived
from precious renewable resources, such
as abaca, pineapple leaves, oilseed
flax/hemp, novel agricultural wastes, and
by-products. But, despite evolutions within
the textile industry over the last decade, the
benefits of natural fibres have been over-
looked in favour of the readily available and
defined biosynthetic materials and man-
made cellulosics.
FIBRAL looks to change this and bring
forward the next paradigm of materials.
Carmen Hijosa says, “FIBRAL™ is the
result of a fellowship of like-minded individ-
uals whose vision, work and life purpose is
to inspire change by bringing awareness to
plant-based fibres, regenerative systems,
local and indigenous communities and cul-
ture, and the importance of biodiversity.
With this alliance we wish to activate a
sense of community, sharing and collabo-
rating by focussing on plant-based solu-
tions, in particular the potential of underrep-
resented fibres in the marketplace – today”.
■
FIBRAL™ Material Alliance Set Up For
Plant-Based Textile Industry
To consolidate and provide a home for the plant-based textile industry,
Ananas Anam, Bananatex and Circular Systems have founded the FIBRAL™
Material Alliance.
International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
16
www.TextileExcellence.com
Saitex To Set Up New Fabric Mill In Vietnam
S
aitex is opening a new fabric mill 40 minutes from its cut and
sew factory outside Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam.
Encompassing 100,000 square metres – 40% of which is
reserved for farming – the site’s capabilities include the spinning,
weaving, dyeing, and finishing of fabric sourced from responsible
cotton producers.
The mill has created 630 jobs to date, and at full capacity will
employ 1,000 people, with plans to have 20% of jobs dedicated to
people with disabilities – an initiative first started in the cut and sew
factory to create upcycled merchandise for the Rekut product line.
Building on the recent opening of its Factory of the Future in Los
Angeles and its denim facility in Vietnam, the integration of the new
mill into the Saitex value stream gives the company unprecedented
control and traceability of the life cycles of its garments.
Seed to shelf
A “seed to shelf” approach to manufacturing starts with close
partnerships with cotton farmers, utilises eco-efficient spinning,
weaving, and dyeing machinery, and incorporates a production cre-
ation centre (PCC) with the capability to create and prototype gar-
ment samples on-site. Brand partners are now offered one of the
most sustainable and transparent “seed to shelf” processes,
globally.
The company’s spinning capabilities allow for the blending of dif-
ferent materials with dual-core, multiple-core and SiroSPUN
technology.
Dyeing takes place at the yarn phase with the Smart-Indigo sys-
tem, to develop hydrosulphite-free indigo dye baths that only use
indigo pigment, caustic soda, water and electricity. The Smart-Indigo
system utilises an electrochemical dye bath preparation that emits
90% less CO2, consumes 70% less energy, and 30% less water
where the only waste product is oxygen.
The mill uses energy-efficient Karl Mayer rope dyeing machines
which enable a minimum 30% reduction in indigo and chemical
usage. Finishing systems include singeing, mercerizing, pad batch
dyeing, pad steam dyeing, stentering, sanforizing and fabric tum-
bling. The mill’s machinery uses less energy, fewer chemicals, and
less water in environmentally friendly processes with a capacity of
24 million metres of fabric per year.
LEED Gold
The facility was constructed with a roof that reflects sunlight and
installed natural ventilation, and it employs materials that adhere to
LEED Gold Certified specifications. The solar panel system consists
of nearly 15,000 panels with 3-4 MW capacity, which equates to
2,000+ tons of CO2 reduction yearly. Additional energy is derived
from industrial sludge which is used to generate 40% of the facility’s
steam power.
Greywater is collected from the industrial park, run through the
custom reverse osmosis (RO) ultrafiltration recycling system and is
then used in the production processes, allowing the mill to operate
without the use of fresh water and achieving a closed water loop.
Additionally, rainwater is collected for use by flushing factory toilets
irrigation, and a sprinkler system. Within the mill compound, a
hydroponic farming system and organic farming fields occupy 40%
of the space and will produce six tons of clean vegetables per year
to feed employees and local communities.
Furthermore, 6,000 trees have been planted in the industrial park
and 50 hectares of mangroves were planted in the country to offset
carbon emissions, helping to progress the mill to carbon neutrality
by 2025. It is also in the process of obtaining ZDHC, Oeko-Tex,
GOTS, GRS, B Corp., and LEED certifications and has future plans
to apply for bluesign and Fair Trade status.
“It has been our long-term vision to close the loop on our oper-
ations,” said Saitex CEO and founder Sanjeev Bahl. “With the open-
ing of the mill and the upcoming launch of our Stelapop textile upcy-
cling facility, our vision will be complete. “We will close the circle,
allowing us to provide unprecedented transparency in denim produc-
tion and the ability to turn apparel and textile waste into high-quality
goods.” ■
New mill has an annual capacity of 24 million metres of fabric.
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Industry News 17
www.TextileExcellence.com
BGMEA To Set Up Apparel Innovation Centre
T
he Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA) is estab-
lishing the first Apparel Innovation
Centre in the country. Abdullah Hil
Rakib, Managing Director of the Team
Group and a director of BGMEA will be
the director in-charge of the BGMEA
Innovation Centre.
Many factors have led to the need
for an innovation centre. According to
Rakib, “The clothing industry has
reached an `evolve or die’ situation
because disruptive technologies are
frequently challenging conventional
ways of conducting business. Besides,
consumers' changing appetite and
increasing competition in the global
retail supply chain has made the pursuit
of innovation all the more important.
Today more than ever, it is imperative to
focus on product design, reducing lead
time, increasing productivity, adapting
to the latest technologies, minimising
production costs and making manufac-
turing plants more sustainable. With
this in mind, the BGMEA is going to
launch the new Centre for Innovation,
Efficiency and Occupational Safety and
Health at the newly built headoffice
of the BGMEA in Uttara, which
will work as a knowledge hub for the
industry.”
The Centre will also serve as an
extended display centre of the collec-
tions developed there and by partici-
pants from individual factories. The
structural and interior investments for
the Innovation Centre amount to about
US$ 250,000. In addition to that, the
BGMEA will bear the operational
expenses of the Centre, including the
salaries of its staff. The major techno-
logical and knowledge showcasing at
the Centre will happen through partner-
ship with technology providing compa-
nies, embassies and development
partners. ■
3 Foreign Firms To Invest US$ 49 Million At
BEPZA Mirsarai Economic Zone
W
ith a US$ 37 million invest-
ment plan, a leading Sri
Lankan apparel maker is
among the first batch of export-orient-
ed companies that have leased plots
in the Mirsarai economic zone in
Chattogram.
Four firms – three foreign and one
local have signed deals with the
Bangladesh Export Processing Zones
Authority (BEPZA) to set up factories to
manufacture apparel, garment acces-
sories, camping equipment and shoe
accessories at the BEPZA economic
zone in the Bangabandhu
Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar in
Chattogram.
The companies altogether will
plough in around US$ 50 million and
employ 23,453 people, it is learnt.
The firms are Sri Lanka-based
Univogue Garments Company Ltd, US-
based Campex (BD) Limited, Chinese
Fengqun Composite Material Company
(BD) Ltd, and Bangladeshi TexTrim
Labels (BD) Limited.
Md Hafizur Rahman, BEPZA
Economic Zone project director, said
Sri Lankan Univogue Garments will
invest around US$ 37 million to pro-
duce woven bottoms and woven jack-
ets. With a more than US$ 2 million
investment plan, Chinese Fengqun
Composite will set up a shoe accesso-
ry-making and packaging industry at
the economic zone. US-based Campex
(BD) Limited will set up a tent, tent
accessories and outdoor garment man-
ufacturing industry with an investment
of US$ 10 million, while Bangladeshi
TexTrim will set up a garment acces-
sories and paper converting industry
with an investment of US$
1.27 million.
Under Bepza, there are now eight
EPZs across the country – Chattogram
EPZ, Dhaka EPZ, Mongla EPZ, Ishwardi
EPZ, Comilla EPZ, Uttara EPZ, Adamjee
EPZ, Karnaphuli EPZ.
Ali Reza Mazid, member
(Investment Promotion) at BEPZA, said
some 453 industries have been set up
at the EPZs with a total investment of
US$ 6 billion. The industries employ
around 5 lakh people, while 66% of
them are women. BEPZA now con-
tributes about 20% to the country's
total annual exports.
The Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib
Shilpa Nagar is located on about
30,000 acres of land in Mirsharai and
Sitakunda upazilas of Chattogram and
Sonagazi upazila of Feni. ■
Industry News Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022
18
www.TextileExcellence.com
Huntsman Corporation To Invest US$ 20
Million In Abdul Monem EZ
Dr Rubana Huq New VC Of Asian
University For Women
W
ith a wide range of lucrative fea-
tures, such as suitable location,
river connectivity, eco-friendly
environment, and all required amenities, pri-
vate sector industrial hub Abdul Monem
Economic Zone is attracting giant investors.
In a recent breakthrough, the under-con-
struction economic zone on the banks of the
Meghna in Munshiganj's Gazaria allotted 5
acres of land for a facility of the US-based
multinational chemical producer Huntsman
Corporation.
Huntsman Corporation will set up a
bonded warehouse soon. After having the
necessary approvals, it will start construc-
tion of the manufacturing plants. A design
has already been finalised, said ASM
Mainuddin Monem, managing director and
chief executive officer at the economic zone.
Huntsman will produce chemicals used
in the apparel industry, with an initial invest-
ment of US$ 20 million, he said, adding that
local RMG manufacturers will be greatly
benefitted once the facility goes into opera-
tion. Currently, the country imports these
chemicals from China, India and a few other
countries. The availability of local apparel
industry chemicals will reduce the lead time
as well, added Mainuddin.
Prime Textile and Basundhara too have
shown keen interest in setting up factories in
the economic zone. We are scrutinising the
proposals. We hope we will have over US$
1 billion investment and can create at least
50,000 jobs in the zone.
The authorities are prepared to build a
power plant for their own electricity, install
jetties for utilising river connectivity and
develop a system for rainwater preservation.
Besides, a solar power grid will be built
there. Officials said the industrial hub, 37km
from the capital city and adjacent to the
Dhaka-Chattogram Highway, is being devel-
oped as a green economic zone at a budget
of Tk 5,000 crore. The Bangladesh
Economic Zone Authority approved the zone
in 2017 for assembling motor parts, pro-
ducing food and beverage, and manufactur-
ing light engineering, packaging and chemi-
cal products. We hope we can complete
the development work of the zone within the
next two years, Mainuddin Monem said.
Abdul Monem Economic Zone is one of
the country's existing 11 privately run eco-
nomic zones. The BEPZA is working toward
establishing 100 economic zones across
the country by 2030. The goal is to create
employment for 10 million people. The
BEPZA also expects to produce and export
products worth $40 billion annually in and
from these economic zones. Investors can
avail of tax holiday, duty-free imports of raw
materials and machinery, exemption from
dividend tax, VAT-free electricity, gas and
water and other fiscal facilities in the
zones. ■
D
r Rubana Huq has been appointed
vice chancellor of the Asian
University for Women (AUW),
Chattogram, Bangladesh, with effect from
February 15, 2022, the AUW said in a press
release. Dr Huq succeeds noted political sci-
entist Professor Nirmala Rao, who retired
from the AUW after serving as its vice chan-
cellor for five years.
She is the first woman to have led the
Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers’ and
Exporters’ Association (BGMEA) as its pres-
ident. Dr Huq has been a trustee of the AUW
and, was more recently, elected vice chair-
man of the Board of Trustees.
She was instrumental in launching the
AUW’s Pathways for Promise programme
that enables exceptionally talented workers
from Bangladesh’s RMG factories to enroll
at the AUW.
She was named as one of BBC’s top
100 women in the world in 2013 and again
in 2014. Dr Huq is currently also a visiting
fellow at the Stern School of Business at
New York University and the Asia Center at
Harvard University. Founded in 2008, the
AUW is the first of its kind: a regional institu-
tion dedicated to women’s education and
leadership development through liberal arts
and sciences education. ■
Dr. Rubana Huq, Chairperson, Mohammadi
Group.
Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Industry News 19
www.TextileExcellence.com
BKMEA Demands Raise In Wastage
Rates Yet Again
MiB Maps 3,630 Export-Oriented RMG
Factories In Bangladesh
M
iB (Mapped in Bangladesh), a 5-
year project to develop a digital
database of RMG workers, has
mapped and compiled the data of 3,630
export-oriented ready-made garment
(RMG) factories in Bangladesh, as of
January 2022.
Centre for Entrepreneurship
Development (CED) of Brac University
(BracU) conducted the survey using the
factory census method all over
Bangladesh, reads a press release.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and
Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BKMEA) are the
strategic partners of the project MiB,
which is being implemented by Brac
University.
The project is also supported by the
Department of Inspection for Factories and
Establishments (DIFE) under the Ministry
of Labour and Employment.
MiB aims to provide accurate, credible,
and updated RMG factory information to
all industry stakeholders in a manner that
enables greater efficiency, productivity,
accountability, and transparency.
With its robust data verification and
validation protocol, the digital repository
can be utilised to design significant inter-
ventions and formulate policies for the
wellbeing of workers.
While there is further research scope
on MiB database, this data also can be
used for policy formulation of the govern-
ment and for the planning of different
development activities related to the facto-
ries and workers inRMG sector, said
Afshana Choudhury, CED-BracU joint
director and MiB lead operation officer.
A recent publication of MiB
researchers has demonstrated that the
male to female workers ratio in
Bangladesh RMG is 42:58 as per analysed
data of 2,565,761 workers in 3,212
export-oriented RMG factories.
One of its rapid surveys, on the basis
of responses from 2,334 factories com-
municated over phone in June 2020 using
contacts in the MiB database, revealed
that the member RMG factories (factories
that are members of BGMEA and/or
BKMEA) were able to utilise 70.55% of
their production capacity, compared to
59.83% by non-member RMG factories
during the pandemic period. ■
T
he Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA) has demanded
that the government raise the wastage rates
of raw materials used in producing ready-
made garments, particularly for knitwear
items, yet again as the trade body believes
the recently revised rates are not realistic.
The commerce ministry usually sets the
rate to curb irregular practices in cotton and
yarns that are allowed to be imported duty-
free.
The Commerce Ministry has revised the
maximum wastage rates to 27% from 16%
for the production of basic knit items – such
as t-shirts, polo shirts, trousers, shorts,
skirts, pyjamas. The revision was made as
per the recommendation of a committee that
the ministry formed a year ago following
requests of the manufacturers.
Apart from the basic items, the authori-
ties for the first time, creating separate cate-
gories, set a wastage rate of 4% for
sweaters, socks and similar items, 30% for
special items including rompers, gowns,
and hoodies.
However, the BKMEA Executive
President Mohammad Hatem, in a letter to
the Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi,
expressed his concern over the newly-set
rates and said the actual wastage was high-
er than the newly set rates.
In the letter, the apex trade body of the
knitwear producers urged the government to
raise rates to 30% for basic knit items, 35%
for special items, and 12% sweaters and
socks items.
In the meeting, stakeholders concerned
presented detailed data on the actual
wastage rates with practical explanations.
Sadly, the reevaluation of the rates did not
reflect it, said the letter. Around 90% of
knitwear are basic items.
The letter also reads that no sweater fac-
tory has been inspected by the committee
so far but the wastage rate is fixed at 4% for
the items, which is completely unreason-
...Contd. On Page 20

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Textile excellence bangladesh edition february 2022

  • 1. www.TextileExcellence.com Vietnam Apparel Industry More Competitive Than Bangladesh : Report I n terms of product quality, lead time, and sustainability, Bangladesh's clothing sec- tor is not as good as its neck-and-neck market peer Vietnam, according to a recent World Trade Organisation (WTO) competi- tiveness report, as Dhaka scores remark- ably lower than Hanoi on ten indices out of a total of twelve. A comparison of lead times reveals that Vietnam is better able in sourcing raw mate- rials, according to the report, and also can release the imported consignment at its ports within 24 hours. In contrast, Bangladesh takes 48 hours to one month to release raw material imports for the apparel industry, said local garment factory owners. They said Vietnam's fashion industry on the ten leading indices logs at least one score ahead of Bangladesh, while the gaps are 1.5 and 2 respectively on sustainability and political stability. ...Contd. On Page 4 FEBRUARY, 2022 PAGES 24
  • 2. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 2 www.TextileExcellence.com
  • 3. !
  • 6. $ %
  • 8. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 3 www.TextileExcellence.com
  • 9. Cover Story Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 4 www.TextileExcellence.com Vietnam Apparel Industry More... Vietnamese workers are 10%-15% more efficient in manufacturing, while the country can deliver the final product to European buyers 10-15 days earlier than Bangladesh. Then comes the shipment time. Vietnam directly sends the prod- ucts to the buyers from its seaports, but Bangladesh cannot. Due to the unavailability of a deep-sea port, feeder vessels have to take the products to countries such as Singapore and Sri Lanka, where the products are transferred to mother vessels for shipment to Europe and the USA. Other major gauges of the recent WTO report, titled, Textiles and clothing in Asian graduating LDCs: Challenges and options – pre- pared after surveying at least 150 exporters and 30 global brands and retailers – are ability to create value-added products, innovation, efficiency, flexibility of order quantity, financial stability and political stability. Vietnam's fashion industry on the ten leading indices logs at least one score ahead of Bangladesh, while the gaps are 1.5 and 2 respectively on sustainability and political stability, shows the report. The report was prepared with data contributed by several UN agen- cies including the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). Only on two indicators – price and tariff advantage, Bangladesh is ahead of Vietnam and China thanks to duty-free access to key global markets and local cheap labour. The country is a little ahead in some indicators than three other least developed countries in Asia including Cambodia, Laos and Nepal. However, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, vice-president at the BKMEA, said he does not agree with all the indicators showing Bangladesh apparel behind Vietnam. None is supposed to be ahead of us in terms of flexibility of order quantity. We accept orders so flexibly that buyers can take several thousand pieces to only a few hundred pieces from us, he claimed. The BKMEA vice-president also defended the quality of made-in- Bangladesh products by saying, We manufacture products as buy- ers want. Since Bangladesh is capable of satisfying the brands with the quality, the country is getting increasing work orders. He, how- ever, agreed that Bangladesh has a lot to improve in terms of higher value addition. Faruque Hassan, president at the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), too said the report in some cases surprisingly underrated the progress made by Bangladesh garment industry over the past decade. The report mentions environmental compliance related risks as a downside for sourcing from Bangladesh, while the industry has made a huge stride to transform workplace safety, workers' wellbe- ing and environmental sustainability. The rating seems to be inappro- priate, he noted. Bangladesh will no longer be entitled for duty-free market access after 2029, as the country will graduate from least developed coun- try club in 2026 and its export will enjoy facility extension for anoth- er three years until 2029. According to the report, Bangladesh may concede a loss of US$ 5.37 billion due to the impact of LDC graduation on export. Still there will be orders The WTO report says fashion brands and retailers adopt diverse sourcing considerations, including cost, speed to market, flexibility, agility and compliance risks. With China and Vietnam as critical sourcing bases, fashion brands mostly see the least developed countries Bangladesh, Cambodia, Laos and Nepal as part of their diverse sourcing loca- tions. According to the report, Turkey is another major sourcing des- tination for European Union-based fashion companies, while EU- based buyers source fewer complex products (such as dresses and outerwear) from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Laos and Nepal due to their limited production capacities. The report mentions, fashion brands and retailers may still find it attractive to source from Bangladesh, Cambodia, Laos and Nepal after their LDC graduation. Major brands and retailers believe LDC graduation may only modestly affect their sourcing. It also said that in the next three to five years, they will increase their sourcing from Bangladesh and Cambodia. While there may be some hardships, some issues with adjusting to a world without GSP benefits, the Bangladeshi RMG industry has been learning lessons from its competitors, investing in the latest technologies, and environmental and worker safety processes and standards. Even without the GSP benefits, Bangladeshi RMG export sector will be a force to reckon with. It’s time to graduate to a more complex product mix.■ ....Contd. From Page 1
  • 10. LDC graduation presents an opportunity for the countries to position their textile and clothing sector higher up the global value chain. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cover Story 5 www.TextileExcellence.com A sian countries graduating from the category of least developed coun- tries (LDCs) need to take measures to bolster their textile and clothing sector, according to a report prepared by the World Trade Organization (WTO) and three UN bodies. The report titled The Textile and Clothing Sector in Asian Graduating Least Developed Countries: Challenges and Ways Forward, focuses on countries such as Bangladesh, Laos and Nepal, where the tex- tile and clothing sector is a major industry and will be significantly impacted by LDC graduation. Combined textile and clothing exports from LDCs in Asia account for 8% of the global total, which contracted in 2020 due to the pandemic. The sector is an important source of employment, especially for women. LDC graduation offers opportunity The report notes that the LDC gradua- tion presents an opportunity to move higher up the global value chain. Manufacturers consulted for the report said they expected graduation to impact their export perform- ance. In addition to facing higher tariffs, most garment manufacturers rely heavily on imported textiles and will struggle to meet more restrictive rules of origin criteria after graduation. How graduation will affect sourcing Many major clothing brands and retail- ers consulted for the report believe that LDC graduation will only modestly affect their sourcing and are planning to expand sourc- ing from graduating LDCs over the next three to five years. Workplace safety, working conditions, environmental compliance, innovation and speed to market are increasingly becoming major factors for brands in their long-term sourcing. We have consulted many brands and retailers on their future sourcing plans and how it affects graduating LDCs. What we have found is that major buyers are consol- idating their sourcing portfolio and, increas- ingly, they are seeking to source from larger, often multinational apparel manufacturers, said Matthias Knappe, programme manager of Fibres, Textiles And Clothing at the International Trade Centre (ITC). Bangladesh – A Case Study ● The study notes the lack of export diversi- fication among the Bangladesh RMG exporting units and limited market reach. ● More than one-third of the firms ship to 3- 5 countries only, while another 16% Strengthening Garment Industry Vital For LDC Graduation: Report ...Contd. On Page 6 Source: EPB Growth rates of RMG and Non-RMG exports (%)
  • 11. Cover Story Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 6 www.TextileExcellence.com export to 6-10 countries ● Export markets for woven manufacturers was relatively more diversified than for knitwear. ● Several firms reported that they were effec- tively exploring new market opportunities amongst others – in Brazil, China, India and South Africa. ● The US is considered the second preferred country in terms of marketing more prod- ucts, followed by Japan, Russia, UK, Canada and Korea. Product complexity ● Several exporters produce complex items, which require automated technology, and versatile worker skills. ● One firm reported producing high-value denim items which uses low ounce stretch, sea plastic recycled fabrics, regen- erated cotton fabrics, jute blended fabrics and Tencel fibres, explaining its niche mar- ket advantages. ● 40% of woven manufacturing firms believe their products are difficult to produce by other firms and countries. Technology and skill upgradation ● 85% of sample firms have plans for upgrading products and processes, upgrading technology and worker skills. ● Firms are adopting energy saving and GHG emission reduction technologies, soft- ware-based production tracing, digitalising administrative and other operations. ● Many reported producing and marketing their own designs alongwith supplying the regular import orders. ● One firm reported producing a complete pair of denim trousers in 17 minutes, aim- ing to bring it down to 14 minutes, at par with global efficiency standards. LDC graduation preparedness Currently, Bangladesh enjoys preferential market access in close to 50 countries. The loss of tariff preferences after graduation could thus trigger tremendous competitive- ness pressure for Bangladesh. Another important aspect of LDC graduation would be a constrained policy space to support the apparel sector. ● Many are of the view that as a bulk produc- er, Bangladesh has tremendous depth and competitiveness strength. ● They also believe that buyers probably drive hard bargains in Bangladesh due to the preferential tariffs. ● Moreover, business is already improving due to the US-China trade war. ● Technology upgradation could happen at the cost of employment generation. ● Seamless infrastructure is of course, much needed, to reduce cost of doing business. ● Exporters could benefit from extended transition period for graduating LDCs, securing preferential trade deals. ■ Strengthening Garment Industry... ....Contd. From Page 5 Source: UNCOMTRADE ITC Trade Map Bangladesh'e market share in partner countries, 2000-20 (%) Export subsidy as % of export earnings (FY2003-FY2019)
  • 12. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cover Story 7 www.TextileExcellence.com Team Group Targets US$ 1 Billion Export By 2026 T eam Group, a leading garment exporter, has targeted to export goods worth US$ 1 billion by 2026, when Bangladesh is scheduled to officially make the United Nations status graduation from a least developed to a developing country. To put this into perspective, Bangladesh earned US$ 4.85 billion from merchandise exports in January with apparel shipments accounting for about 85% of it. Apart from manufacturing textile and clothing, the conglomerate has a gar- ment buying house, a pharmaceutical company and real estate development firm. Among the ventures, the garment buying house's exports last year stood at US$ 270 million, said Abdullah Hil Rakib, managing director of Team Group. Last year, the group's 4A Yarn Dyeing exported garments worth US$ 36 million and at the end of the current year, Rakib expects to attain US$ 70 million. I am very much hopeful that both the pharmaceuticals and buying house would be very important compo- nents in achieving the US$ 1 billion tar- get, he said. The group has been preparing for the graduation challenges, such as ero- sion of trade preferences, so that its exports maintain robust growth. Mainly producing outerwear for customers in Europe and the US, 4A Yarn Dyeing has made strong improvements in compli- ance to laws and diversified its produc- tion base, taking on high-end value added garment items so that buyers pay better prices. As a result, almost all important global clothing retailers and brands have been placing work orders in bulk quantity with 4A Yarn Dyeing. It has also received the United States Green Building Council's Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design certification of platinum standard. Nearly all of the factory's 7,000 workers stay near the production facili- ty at Kaichabari, Banchabarri, Baipail in Savar under Dhaka district. So coming to work does not require transportation on vehicles, which helped reduced car- bon emissions, said Rakib. The factory is able to harvest 86.3% of the rain that falls on it premises while solar panels, LED lights and architectur- al changes making better use of sunlight saves up on around 50% in energy use. With the higher inflow of work orders from international retailers and brands, Team Group is going for a massive expansion of capacity, said Rakib. Currently, the factory's production runs on a five lakh square feet space, creating mainly outerwear for brands like Guess, Next, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, s. Oliver and many more European and American retailers and brands. By 2025, the group plans on open- ing another factory of the same size just near the current one. The factory being planned will mainly produce manmade fibres to reduce import dependence on China, India and other countries. Rakib said the next business of Bangladesh would be of manmade fibre and the group would mainly produce the garment items out of manmade fibre. The company is also upgrading machines to achieve higher productivity, and finer production. Rakib has been transforming the production facility mainly targeting the LDC graduation as the country will not be able to enjoy the GSP benefit after the graduation. I have been gearing up my produc- tion facility in such a way so that the retailers and brands cannot ask any question regarding the compliances and production facilities, for bringing effi- ciency and for getting better prices in the time of fierce competition after the graduation, Rakib said. ■ “ By 2025, Team Group plans on doubling its pro- duction capacity, focussing on production of man- made fibres and apparel. The company has begun upgrading machines to achieve higher productivity, and finer production. This is in preparation for Bangladesh’s LDC graduation when many trade preferences will disappear. “
  • 13. Logistics Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 8 www.TextileExcellence.com T he container ship Songa Cheetah left the Chattogram port for the Port of Ravenna in Italy with 952 TEUs (Twenty-Foot Equivalent Units) of export goods last week. This is the first time a ship will directly carry goods from the Chattogram port to a European port, taking only 16 days. About 98% of the export products on Songa Cheetah are readymade garments and the remaining 2% are handicrafts, leather and jute products. Once the goods reach the Port of Ravenna, they will be deliv- ered to various destinations in Europe as per the buyers' demand, said Mohammed Rashed, chairman of Reliance Shipping and Logistics Limited. According to shipping agents, current- ly, feeder vessels first transport Bangladeshi goods from the Chattogram port to transhipment ports – Colombo, Singapore, and Tanjung Pelepas and Port Klang of Malaysia – and some ports in China. There, the containers are loaded onto bigger vessels before they are sent to their final destinations in Europe. It takes around 40 days to carry goods from Bangladesh to Italy in this way. The new direct shipping route between Bangladesh and Italy will decrease the trans- portation time by around 24 days and save costs by 40%. Italian shipping company Kalypso Compagnia di Navigazione has introduced the direct service with two vessels: Songa Cheetah and Cape Flores. The Cape Flores arrived at the Chattogram port on 24 December 2021 with empty containers but did not carry any exports on the way back to Europe. Considering the importance of garment exports, the Chattogram Port Authority will prioritise ships on Italy-Bangladesh route in providing facilities, including berthing and key gantry crane, said Rear Admiral M Shahjahan, Chairman, Chattogram Port Authority, at the inauguration of the Bangladesh-Italy direct route. The direct shipping route has started a landmark chapter in our economy. If other shipping lines want to launch such a direct route, the port authorities will extend all pos- sible cooperation, he added. Mahbubul Alam, President, Chattogram Chamber of Commerce and Industry, said, Bangladesh would be ahead of Vietnam in terms of garment exports if direct container shipping on the Italy-Bangladesh route can be kept uninterrupted because it will save lead time and cost. ■ D anish shipping company Maersk Bangladesh, in part- nership with Ispahani Summit Alliance Terminals Limited (ISATL), is all set to build a 200,000 sq. ft custom bonded warehouse in the port city of Chittagong even as the new warehouse will double the existing capacity at ISATL and add around 8% additional space to the existing ecosystem in Chittagong. According to reports, construction of the new CFS has already started and is expected to be completed by the end of 2022 in a phased manner. Said Angshuman Mustafi, Managing Director of Maersk Bangladesh, “Maersk’s commit- ment to connect and simplify our customers’ supply chains means that we look at long-term solutions.” Maersk will also, reportedly, offer customers barcode and RFID scanning, Garment on Hanger facility, sorting, product audit, labelling, etc. Further, the new facility is, reportedly, being built by benchmarking international best practices in terms of safety and other compliance guidelines. ■ Direct Freight Route To Europe Starts As Songa Cheetah Leaves Ctg Maersk To Build Warehouse In Chittagong: Reports The new direct route will decrease transportation time by around 24 days, and save costs by 40%
  • 14. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 corporate update 9 www.TextileExcellence.com Robintex’s Mega Solar Rooftop Project MJ Group Adopts H2H Solution R obintex Group, a Germany- Bangladesh joint venture, has set up the country’s largest industrial solar rooftop project. Robintex has set up a mega 3.2 MWp rooftop solar plant, on its 11 buildings. The company has partnered with Joules Power Ltd (JPL). With this mega solar power plant, it expects to reduce GHG emission at least by 40% and off- set 81,446 tons of carbon emis- sions during the plant’s 20 years of operation. Renewable energy makes busi- ness sense as power supply and price is unstable in the country. More importantly, the company realises the urgent need to adopt practices that save the environ- ment. The current project will meet almost 50% of the company’s daily power demand. ■ H SBC Bangladesh has established a Host-to-Host Integration (H2H) solution for MJ Group, one of the largest RMG manufacturers in the coun- try. The digital service will enable MJ Group to process a variety of local payments directly from their ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) system, said a press release. Inauguration of the virtual event was attended by MJ Group Managing Director Salahuddin Ahmed, HSBC Bangladesh Country Head of Wholesale Banking Kevin Green and seniors from both the organisations. Our company continuously welcomes value addition for the betterment of business so that we can pass on the benefits to the society. HSBC's paperless solution will help MJ Group significantly to fullfil our objective, MJ Group Managing Director Salahuddin Ahmed said. He also appreciated the bank's support and smooth implementa- tion within the planned turnaround time. Customers' expectations and technology capability are evolving at speed, so we work in agile, cus- tomer-focussed, cross-functional teams to test, learn and launch new products and features at a faster pace. With our innovative financial solutions, I am sure that MJ's H2H connectivity will ensure a seamless end-to-end flow in their working capital man- agement, said HSBC Bangladesh Country Head of Wholesale Banking Kevin Green ■ Paramount Textile To Raise Tk 1.50 Bln Through Preference Shares Paramount Textile, a sister concern of Paramount Group, has decided to issue 150 million fully redeemable non-convertible cumulative preference shares, to raise funds worth Tk 1.50 billion for five- year tenure, the company said in a filing. The funds will be utilised for the upcoming project expansion and to pay-off a portion of high-cost short term loan. Ring Shine Textiles Needs Tk 30 Cr To Stay Afloat Ring Shine Textiles has sought BSEC’s approval to utilise Tk 30 crore of its IPO funds to run the business. It has utilised Tk 90 crore of its Tk 150 crore in IPO funds, raised upon listing on the stock exchanges in 2019. The company spent Tk 50 crore on debt servicing and Tk 40 crore on its factory which was out of operation for a long time. CA Textiles To Issue New Shares To Alif Group Troubled CA Textiles wants to increase its paid-up capital by Tk 50 crore through issuing new shares to Alif Group, for reopening its factory which has not been in operation for more than four years. The company will seek approval from its shareholders in its EGM on March 30. Alltex Shares Jump 19% On Sudden Profit The troubled home textile exporter, which had been consistently incurring huge losses since 2017, posted Tk 1.36 in earnings per share (EPS) for the second quarter of the current fiscal year. The company reported profits for the October- December quarter alongside a meagre 1% cash dividend only for the general shareholders. ■ News In Brief
  • 15. Cotton Update Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 10 www.TextileExcellence.com Cotton Prices To Pick Up 5% In 2022 On Rising Demand, Limited Crops In India, US A new report from IndexBox - World - Cotton Lint - Market Analysis, Forecast, Size, Trends and Insights, estimates a 5% increase in global cotton prices in 2022. Here is a summary of the report's key findings. In 2022, cotton prices are expected to gain 5% y/y, as last year's ending stocks are rapidly reduced amid strong global demand outpacing available sup- ply. Last year, the average cotton price soared by 41% y/y to US$ 2.23 per kg. In 2021, the average cotton price surged by 41% y/y to US$ 2.23 per kg. Despite the global cotton production rebounded after a 2020's drop last year, reaching the pre-pandemic level of 26.3 million tonnes, growing demand out- strips supply. In H1 2022, cotton prices are projected to increase, as global pro- duction at the beginning of the year is lower than in the previous months due to smaller crops in India and the US. This year, the average annual cotton price is expected to pick up 5% y/y to approx. US$ 2.34 per kg. Instigated by boosting demand and high domestic cotton prices, China is forecast to ramp up imports sharply, also stimulating the price rally. Global Cotton Lint Exports by Country In 2020, the amount of cotton lint exported worldwide was estimated at 9.4 million tonnes, picking up by 5% compared with the previous year's fig- ure. In value terms, supplies contracted to US$ 14.6 billion (IndexBox esti- mates). The US (3.8M tonnes) repre- sented the major exporter of cotton lint, mixing up 41% of total exports. Brazil (2.1M tonnes) held the second position in the ranking, distantly followed by India (960K tonnes). All these countries together held near 33% share of total supplies. Greece (289K tonnes), Benin (280K tonnes), Nigeria (212K tonnes), Australia (170K tonnes) and Burkina Faso (167K tonnes) followed a long way behind the leaders. In 2020, the most notable rate of growth in terms of ship- ments amongst the key exporting coun- tries was attained by India (+55.9% per year), while exports for the other global leaders experienced more modest paces of growth. In value terms, the US ($6B), Brazil ($3.2B) and India ($1.4B) appeared to be the countries with the highest levels of exports in 2020, with a combined 73% share of global supplies. Turkey’s cotton textile and product exports spur record consumption Turkey’s 2021/22 cotton consump- tion is forecast at a record 8.5 million bales and use is expected to grow more than 10%, well above the 3% consump- tion growth forecast for the world. Turkey is forecast to contribute a significant portion of the world’s record 2021/22 consumption, behind only India in its year-over-year increase of 0.8 million bales. Logistical advantages, changes in global retailers’ sourcing strategies, and duty-free access to the European Union (EU) are supporting robust cotton product and textile exports. Despite global issues with ocean freight, Turkey’s location is ideal relative to other cotton product and textile exporters. Turkey is near European and Middle East markets, with the EU being the world’s second largest importer of cotton products. Turkish exporters can also ship by rail or truck versus relying solely on ocean transit. Additionally, Turkey’s Customs Union with the EU means that most textiles and clothing products can be exported duty-free to the EU and European Free Trade Association countries. Outside of logistics, EU and US retailers are actively restructuring their supply chains to rely less on manufac- turers in Asia (particularly China). The United States is the world’s largest importer of cotton products, and US ...Contd. On Page 11
  • 16. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Cotton Update 11 www.TextileExcellence.com Cotton Prices To Pick Up 5% In 2022... Indian Industry Demands Duty-Free Cotton Import With Quantitative Restrictions T he textile and clothing industry has sought duty-free import of cotton with quantitative restrictions. Textile machinery manufacturers are delivering almost two lakh spindles a month, said T. Rajkumar, chairman of Confederation of Indian Textile Industry. This means that substantial addition of production capacity has been taking place. Thus, cotton consumption by tex- tile mills during the current cotton sea- son, which ends on September 30, is likely to be higher at close to 340 lakh bales while cotton production is estimat- ed to be almost 350 lakh bales, com- pared with 360 lakh bales in the previous season. Every year, 40-45 lakh bales turn out to be of poor quality, which is unusable. This year, the yield is said to be lower, apart from quality issues. Cotton prices have reached Rs 80,000 a candy, rising from Rs 43,300 in January 2021 and Rs 57,000 a candy on October 1, 2021. There is hardly any cotton arriving at the markets, according to Ravi Sam, chair- man, Southern India Mills’ Association. “The best of mills have just one-and- a-half months’ cotton stock,” he added. The Centre must permit 30 lakh bales of duty-free import of cotton for April- September, and that too only by end- users of cotton, Rajkumar urged. Mills have to start booking cotton now to ensure shipments in April-May. “If this is not done, textile industry will face a disaster in March-April,” Sam said. Atul Ganatra, president, Cotton Association of India, said there are indi- cations that the area under cotton would increase 20-25% for the next season. The government should increase the minimum support price for extra long staple varieties by 25% and for other varieties by only 3-5 %. ■ retailers are seeking to comply with the US Withhold Release Order (WRO) on products containing any derivative of Xinjiang cotton. Compared with China and other major exporting countries in South and Southeast Asia (e.g., Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia), Turkey’s supply chain from lint to fin- ished fabric is mostly absent of Xinjiang lint. Turkey cotton product and textile exports are booming despite wide- spread economic concerns. These include exchange rate fluctuations, ris- ing energy costs, electricity cuts, cotton prices more than doubling (in local cur- rency), and slower tourist activity (a significant contributor to domestic eco- nomic growth). Although the lira’s plunge makes cotton lint imports and other inputs more expensive, the lower-valued cur- rency also makes textile and product exports more affordable for foreign buy- ers. Despite these economic head- winds, lower priced exports continue to surge. With global retailers seeking alternative sources outside Asia and with Turkey’s logistical advantages, these factors provide a strong founda- tion for 2021/22 consumption and beyond 2021/22 outlook Global production is lowered from last month with smaller crops in India and Tanzania. Use is mostly unchanged and ending stocks are down more than 700,000 bales for the second consecu- tive month. Global trade is down slightly with lower US exports and China imports for the second consecutive month. US production is unchanged at 17.6 million bales. Exports are reduced for the second consecutive month to 14.8 million bales, and the US season-aver- age farm price is unchanged at 90 cents per pound. Global cotton prices rose since last month’s WASDE with the A-Index exceeding 140 cents per pound, more than 50 cents above the same period last year. Brazil witnessed the most significant rise this month, climbing over 14 cents, owing to rapidly rising exports. Strong export sales, logistical constraints, and unfixed mill positions continue to sup- port prices on the Intercontinental Exchange. Spot prices in China were marginally higher amid the slowdown from Lunar New Year. The A-Index is roughly 20 cents lower than domestic prices in China, compared with 30 cents last month, as the bulk of classed newcrop enters the domestic market. ■ ....Contd. From Page 10
  • 17. International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 12 www.TextileExcellence.com India, UAE Finalise Free Trade Pact U nited Arab Emirates (UAE) could once again become India’s largest apparel market, following the signing of the free trade agreement between the two countries. India may get duty concessions on textiles and apparel, gold jewellery, engi- neering goods, food products, and other labour-intensive sectors under the free trade agreement (FTA) with the UAE. The deal will not only boost India’s exports, but also facilitate easier movement of Indian workers and professionals to the UAE. It is also expected to give Indian industry access to other markets in the region. The FTA negotiations had started in September 2021. Engineering exports to the UAE are expected to double in the next five years from the current US$ 4-5 billion and create 100,000 jobs on account of tariff concessions. India’s exports to the UAE grew by 77% year-on-year in April-December 2021 to US$ 20 billion, accounting for 6.6% of India’s total outbound shipments. Experts said the deal is expected to boost job creation and economic growth, provide cheaper products to Indian con- sumers and lead to lower input costs for many products. ■ Duty concessions soon on textiles, apparel, jewellery, engineering goods, food products. Indian TC May Gain Duty-Free Entry Into Australia US Terminates AGOA Programme for Ethiopia, Mali, Guinea I n lieu of opening up India's dairy and agri- culture industries through low or zero tar- iffs, Australia has offered tariff cuts on 99% of its traded items with India under the proposed bilateral free trade settlement. India is keen on dairy products, cereals, oilseeds, and processed foods, which Canberra is eager to sell. By the end of this month, the two sides hope to have reached an interim deal, termed early harvest in trade parlance. Australia has stated that their import tariffs will be zero on 99% of products at the time the deal enters into force, an official said. India's exports to Australia in FY21 reached US$ 4.04 billion, including refined petroleum, pharmaceuticals, railway auto- mobiles including hovertrains, gems, and jewels, textile goods, while imports amount- ed to US$ 8.24 billion. Imports included coals, ores and extracts, gold, greens, wool, fruits and nuts, and lentils. Indian exports of agriculture products, materials, clothing, footwear, and machine tools, among other things, may be eligible for zero-duty advantages. Commerce and Trade Minister Piyush Goyal indicated that the interim deal with Australia will cover huge areas of interest, notably our labour-oriented industries like as textiles,?footwear,? pharma,??leather prod- ucts, and agricultural products. The two sides agreed to finalise a long-stalled FTA known as a comprehensive financial coop- eration settlement?by the end of 2022. ■ T he United States has terminated Ethiopia, Mali and Guinea from the AGOA trade preference pro- gramme due to actions taken by each of their governments in violation of the AGOA Statute. The Biden-Harris Administration is deeply concerned by the unconstitutional change in govern- ments in both Guinea and Mali, and by the gross violations of internationally recognised human rights being perpe- trated by the Government of Ethiopia and other parties amid the widening conflict in northern Ethiopia. Each country has clear benchmarks for a pathway toward reinstatement and the Administration will work with their governments to achieve that objective. ■ Australia grants tariff exemptions on 99% Indian imports
  • 18. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 13 www.TextileExcellence.com
  • 19. International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 14 www.TextileExcellence.com China Explores FTA With Gulf Cooperation Council C hina recently hosted the foreign ministers from major oil produc- ers and exporters in the Middle East to discuss boosting energy ties and a possible free trade agreement. Beijing’s concerns with the unrest in central Asian oil producer Kazakhstan were also discussed. The Gulf countries and China will be seeking to progress negotiations over a free trade agreement (FTA) and cooper- ation in areas including energy. The GCC includes Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates (UAE). China-GCC FTA negotiations had started in 2004. To date, China and the GCC have held five rounds of negotiations and have reached agreement on the majori- ty of issues concerning trade in goods, with the concentration being on energy related products, although not exclu- sively. Negotiations on trade in services have also been launched. China has been the largest export market for GCC countries since 2012 and has upgraded relations with all of them to ‘strategic economic partner- ships’ and all have joined the Belt and Road Initiative. According to the US Department of Commerce, by 2030, China will import almost 80% of its oil needs, while by 2019, Saudi oil exports to China increased to 47%. The RMB possesses an advanced status in the GCC foreign exchange markets, and especially in the UAE and Qatar. In 2018, several of Dubai’s banks issued international bonds in RMB. There are further consolidations. Saudi Arabia, with their 2030 Vision, and Kuwait, with their Vision 2035 as well as Bahrain and Oman’s national development plans are all aligned with Belt and Road Initiative develop- ment. ■ T extile maker Interloop Ltd has said it’s going to set up its sixth hosiery plant in 2023-24, one year ahead of the original plan, in view of “increased demand” from global customers. This would entail an invest- ment of US$ 100 million. In a regulatory filing with the Pakistan Stock Exchange, the company said its fifth hosiery plant recently started production and is currently operating at full capacity. “Despite the addition of plant 5, the company is unable to meet the order requirement of customers.” “By advancing hosiery plant 6, the company’s profitability will increase substantially, which will be helpful for setting up other projects as per Vision 2025,” said the regulatory filing. The board of Interloop Ltd advised the company management to “work out possibilities of arranging new capital by either bringing in foreign investors or further issuance of shares through a right issue”. According to a stock filing, the firm plans to begin civil work on an apparel project with a capital outlay of US$ 100 million for which the company has secured a Rs 5 billion LTTF, with the remainder funds coming from internal cash flow. Interloop Limited manufactures and sells socks, leggings, denim, yarn, gar- ments, and allied products, and also offers yarn dying services, while pro- ducing its own electricity. The company made a profit of Rs 2.69 billion in the first quarter of 2021-22, up by 94% year on year. ■ Interloop To Invest US$ 100 Million In Sixth Hosiery Unit ● Significant breakthroughs expected in trade, infrastructure and RMB interna- tionalisation. ● China has been the largest export mar- ket for GCC countries since 2012 and is the main oil and commercial partner to the GCC. ● China has upgraded relations with all of them to ‘strategic economic partner- ships’ and all have joined the Belt and Road Initiative.
  • 20. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 International trade 15 www.TextileExcellence.com N IKE x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple Collection has won the Best Collaboration by PETA Fashion Awards 2021. The Nike x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple collaboration was launched in June 2021 and was comprised of five sneaker models across eight colourways; the Free Run Trail Premium, the Air Max 90, the Air Max 95, the Air-Zoom Type and the icon- ic Air Force 1. Head of Sales Business Development at Ananas Anam, Meliza Ann Mendoza says, “The collection was a result of a great team effort between everyone involved in the project. We are delighted to know that the collaboration is being recognised by PETA because I see this as an important step in working together to create more impact at scale. We look forward to building more collaborations in 2022 that will create positive change within the fashion industry.” ■ NIKE x PIÑATEX® Happy Pineapple Collection Wins PETA Fashion Award T he FIBRAL Material Alliance is an international organisation established by three founders: Dr Carmen Hijosa from Ananas Anam, Hannes Schoenegger from Bananatex® and Ricardo Garay of Regenerate Fashion. It exists to bring together companies and individuals work- ing with ancient underrepresented and new plant-based fibres to give a strong voice, and to help provide a solution to the textile crisis. The textile industry is dominated by a material mix that relies on fossil-based resources or fibres that are associated with intensive water, chemical and land use. In the face of global climate change, there is a growing need for alternative materials as the Earth’s finite resources diminish and natural systems continue to degrade. The Fibral™ Material Alliance seeks to align plant-based fibres under a common umbrella to provide support and to foster solutions to heal Earth’s ecosystems and address the textile industry’s detrimental impacts through increasing use of Fibral™ Materials. These natural materials are derived from precious renewable resources, such as abaca, pineapple leaves, oilseed flax/hemp, novel agricultural wastes, and by-products. But, despite evolutions within the textile industry over the last decade, the benefits of natural fibres have been over- looked in favour of the readily available and defined biosynthetic materials and man- made cellulosics. FIBRAL looks to change this and bring forward the next paradigm of materials. Carmen Hijosa says, “FIBRAL™ is the result of a fellowship of like-minded individ- uals whose vision, work and life purpose is to inspire change by bringing awareness to plant-based fibres, regenerative systems, local and indigenous communities and cul- ture, and the importance of biodiversity. With this alliance we wish to activate a sense of community, sharing and collabo- rating by focussing on plant-based solu- tions, in particular the potential of underrep- resented fibres in the marketplace – today”. ■ FIBRAL™ Material Alliance Set Up For Plant-Based Textile Industry To consolidate and provide a home for the plant-based textile industry, Ananas Anam, Bananatex and Circular Systems have founded the FIBRAL™ Material Alliance.
  • 21. International trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 16 www.TextileExcellence.com Saitex To Set Up New Fabric Mill In Vietnam S aitex is opening a new fabric mill 40 minutes from its cut and sew factory outside Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. Encompassing 100,000 square metres – 40% of which is reserved for farming – the site’s capabilities include the spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing of fabric sourced from responsible cotton producers. The mill has created 630 jobs to date, and at full capacity will employ 1,000 people, with plans to have 20% of jobs dedicated to people with disabilities – an initiative first started in the cut and sew factory to create upcycled merchandise for the Rekut product line. Building on the recent opening of its Factory of the Future in Los Angeles and its denim facility in Vietnam, the integration of the new mill into the Saitex value stream gives the company unprecedented control and traceability of the life cycles of its garments. Seed to shelf A “seed to shelf” approach to manufacturing starts with close partnerships with cotton farmers, utilises eco-efficient spinning, weaving, and dyeing machinery, and incorporates a production cre- ation centre (PCC) with the capability to create and prototype gar- ment samples on-site. Brand partners are now offered one of the most sustainable and transparent “seed to shelf” processes, globally. The company’s spinning capabilities allow for the blending of dif- ferent materials with dual-core, multiple-core and SiroSPUN technology. Dyeing takes place at the yarn phase with the Smart-Indigo sys- tem, to develop hydrosulphite-free indigo dye baths that only use indigo pigment, caustic soda, water and electricity. The Smart-Indigo system utilises an electrochemical dye bath preparation that emits 90% less CO2, consumes 70% less energy, and 30% less water where the only waste product is oxygen. The mill uses energy-efficient Karl Mayer rope dyeing machines which enable a minimum 30% reduction in indigo and chemical usage. Finishing systems include singeing, mercerizing, pad batch dyeing, pad steam dyeing, stentering, sanforizing and fabric tum- bling. The mill’s machinery uses less energy, fewer chemicals, and less water in environmentally friendly processes with a capacity of 24 million metres of fabric per year. LEED Gold The facility was constructed with a roof that reflects sunlight and installed natural ventilation, and it employs materials that adhere to LEED Gold Certified specifications. The solar panel system consists of nearly 15,000 panels with 3-4 MW capacity, which equates to 2,000+ tons of CO2 reduction yearly. Additional energy is derived from industrial sludge which is used to generate 40% of the facility’s steam power. Greywater is collected from the industrial park, run through the custom reverse osmosis (RO) ultrafiltration recycling system and is then used in the production processes, allowing the mill to operate without the use of fresh water and achieving a closed water loop. Additionally, rainwater is collected for use by flushing factory toilets irrigation, and a sprinkler system. Within the mill compound, a hydroponic farming system and organic farming fields occupy 40% of the space and will produce six tons of clean vegetables per year to feed employees and local communities. Furthermore, 6,000 trees have been planted in the industrial park and 50 hectares of mangroves were planted in the country to offset carbon emissions, helping to progress the mill to carbon neutrality by 2025. It is also in the process of obtaining ZDHC, Oeko-Tex, GOTS, GRS, B Corp., and LEED certifications and has future plans to apply for bluesign and Fair Trade status. “It has been our long-term vision to close the loop on our oper- ations,” said Saitex CEO and founder Sanjeev Bahl. “With the open- ing of the mill and the upcoming launch of our Stelapop textile upcy- cling facility, our vision will be complete. “We will close the circle, allowing us to provide unprecedented transparency in denim produc- tion and the ability to turn apparel and textile waste into high-quality goods.” ■ New mill has an annual capacity of 24 million metres of fabric.
  • 22. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Industry News 17 www.TextileExcellence.com BGMEA To Set Up Apparel Innovation Centre T he Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is estab- lishing the first Apparel Innovation Centre in the country. Abdullah Hil Rakib, Managing Director of the Team Group and a director of BGMEA will be the director in-charge of the BGMEA Innovation Centre. Many factors have led to the need for an innovation centre. According to Rakib, “The clothing industry has reached an `evolve or die’ situation because disruptive technologies are frequently challenging conventional ways of conducting business. Besides, consumers' changing appetite and increasing competition in the global retail supply chain has made the pursuit of innovation all the more important. Today more than ever, it is imperative to focus on product design, reducing lead time, increasing productivity, adapting to the latest technologies, minimising production costs and making manufac- turing plants more sustainable. With this in mind, the BGMEA is going to launch the new Centre for Innovation, Efficiency and Occupational Safety and Health at the newly built headoffice of the BGMEA in Uttara, which will work as a knowledge hub for the industry.” The Centre will also serve as an extended display centre of the collec- tions developed there and by partici- pants from individual factories. The structural and interior investments for the Innovation Centre amount to about US$ 250,000. In addition to that, the BGMEA will bear the operational expenses of the Centre, including the salaries of its staff. The major techno- logical and knowledge showcasing at the Centre will happen through partner- ship with technology providing compa- nies, embassies and development partners. ■ 3 Foreign Firms To Invest US$ 49 Million At BEPZA Mirsarai Economic Zone W ith a US$ 37 million invest- ment plan, a leading Sri Lankan apparel maker is among the first batch of export-orient- ed companies that have leased plots in the Mirsarai economic zone in Chattogram. Four firms – three foreign and one local have signed deals with the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) to set up factories to manufacture apparel, garment acces- sories, camping equipment and shoe accessories at the BEPZA economic zone in the Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar in Chattogram. The companies altogether will plough in around US$ 50 million and employ 23,453 people, it is learnt. The firms are Sri Lanka-based Univogue Garments Company Ltd, US- based Campex (BD) Limited, Chinese Fengqun Composite Material Company (BD) Ltd, and Bangladeshi TexTrim Labels (BD) Limited. Md Hafizur Rahman, BEPZA Economic Zone project director, said Sri Lankan Univogue Garments will invest around US$ 37 million to pro- duce woven bottoms and woven jack- ets. With a more than US$ 2 million investment plan, Chinese Fengqun Composite will set up a shoe accesso- ry-making and packaging industry at the economic zone. US-based Campex (BD) Limited will set up a tent, tent accessories and outdoor garment man- ufacturing industry with an investment of US$ 10 million, while Bangladeshi TexTrim will set up a garment acces- sories and paper converting industry with an investment of US$ 1.27 million. Under Bepza, there are now eight EPZs across the country – Chattogram EPZ, Dhaka EPZ, Mongla EPZ, Ishwardi EPZ, Comilla EPZ, Uttara EPZ, Adamjee EPZ, Karnaphuli EPZ. Ali Reza Mazid, member (Investment Promotion) at BEPZA, said some 453 industries have been set up at the EPZs with a total investment of US$ 6 billion. The industries employ around 5 lakh people, while 66% of them are women. BEPZA now con- tributes about 20% to the country's total annual exports. The Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar is located on about 30,000 acres of land in Mirsharai and Sitakunda upazilas of Chattogram and Sonagazi upazila of Feni. ■
  • 23. Industry News Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 18 www.TextileExcellence.com Huntsman Corporation To Invest US$ 20 Million In Abdul Monem EZ Dr Rubana Huq New VC Of Asian University For Women W ith a wide range of lucrative fea- tures, such as suitable location, river connectivity, eco-friendly environment, and all required amenities, pri- vate sector industrial hub Abdul Monem Economic Zone is attracting giant investors. In a recent breakthrough, the under-con- struction economic zone on the banks of the Meghna in Munshiganj's Gazaria allotted 5 acres of land for a facility of the US-based multinational chemical producer Huntsman Corporation. Huntsman Corporation will set up a bonded warehouse soon. After having the necessary approvals, it will start construc- tion of the manufacturing plants. A design has already been finalised, said ASM Mainuddin Monem, managing director and chief executive officer at the economic zone. Huntsman will produce chemicals used in the apparel industry, with an initial invest- ment of US$ 20 million, he said, adding that local RMG manufacturers will be greatly benefitted once the facility goes into opera- tion. Currently, the country imports these chemicals from China, India and a few other countries. The availability of local apparel industry chemicals will reduce the lead time as well, added Mainuddin. Prime Textile and Basundhara too have shown keen interest in setting up factories in the economic zone. We are scrutinising the proposals. We hope we will have over US$ 1 billion investment and can create at least 50,000 jobs in the zone. The authorities are prepared to build a power plant for their own electricity, install jetties for utilising river connectivity and develop a system for rainwater preservation. Besides, a solar power grid will be built there. Officials said the industrial hub, 37km from the capital city and adjacent to the Dhaka-Chattogram Highway, is being devel- oped as a green economic zone at a budget of Tk 5,000 crore. The Bangladesh Economic Zone Authority approved the zone in 2017 for assembling motor parts, pro- ducing food and beverage, and manufactur- ing light engineering, packaging and chemi- cal products. We hope we can complete the development work of the zone within the next two years, Mainuddin Monem said. Abdul Monem Economic Zone is one of the country's existing 11 privately run eco- nomic zones. The BEPZA is working toward establishing 100 economic zones across the country by 2030. The goal is to create employment for 10 million people. The BEPZA also expects to produce and export products worth $40 billion annually in and from these economic zones. Investors can avail of tax holiday, duty-free imports of raw materials and machinery, exemption from dividend tax, VAT-free electricity, gas and water and other fiscal facilities in the zones. ■ D r Rubana Huq has been appointed vice chancellor of the Asian University for Women (AUW), Chattogram, Bangladesh, with effect from February 15, 2022, the AUW said in a press release. Dr Huq succeeds noted political sci- entist Professor Nirmala Rao, who retired from the AUW after serving as its vice chan- cellor for five years. She is the first woman to have led the Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA) as its pres- ident. Dr Huq has been a trustee of the AUW and, was more recently, elected vice chair- man of the Board of Trustees. She was instrumental in launching the AUW’s Pathways for Promise programme that enables exceptionally talented workers from Bangladesh’s RMG factories to enroll at the AUW. She was named as one of BBC’s top 100 women in the world in 2013 and again in 2014. Dr Huq is currently also a visiting fellow at the Stern School of Business at New York University and the Asia Center at Harvard University. Founded in 2008, the AUW is the first of its kind: a regional institu- tion dedicated to women’s education and leadership development through liberal arts and sciences education. ■ Dr. Rubana Huq, Chairperson, Mohammadi Group.
  • 24. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Industry News 19 www.TextileExcellence.com BKMEA Demands Raise In Wastage Rates Yet Again MiB Maps 3,630 Export-Oriented RMG Factories In Bangladesh M iB (Mapped in Bangladesh), a 5- year project to develop a digital database of RMG workers, has mapped and compiled the data of 3,630 export-oriented ready-made garment (RMG) factories in Bangladesh, as of January 2022. Centre for Entrepreneurship Development (CED) of Brac University (BracU) conducted the survey using the factory census method all over Bangladesh, reads a press release. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) are the strategic partners of the project MiB, which is being implemented by Brac University. The project is also supported by the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) under the Ministry of Labour and Employment. MiB aims to provide accurate, credible, and updated RMG factory information to all industry stakeholders in a manner that enables greater efficiency, productivity, accountability, and transparency. With its robust data verification and validation protocol, the digital repository can be utilised to design significant inter- ventions and formulate policies for the wellbeing of workers. While there is further research scope on MiB database, this data also can be used for policy formulation of the govern- ment and for the planning of different development activities related to the facto- ries and workers inRMG sector, said Afshana Choudhury, CED-BracU joint director and MiB lead operation officer. A recent publication of MiB researchers has demonstrated that the male to female workers ratio in Bangladesh RMG is 42:58 as per analysed data of 2,565,761 workers in 3,212 export-oriented RMG factories. One of its rapid surveys, on the basis of responses from 2,334 factories com- municated over phone in June 2020 using contacts in the MiB database, revealed that the member RMG factories (factories that are members of BGMEA and/or BKMEA) were able to utilise 70.55% of their production capacity, compared to 59.83% by non-member RMG factories during the pandemic period. ■ T he Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) has demanded that the government raise the wastage rates of raw materials used in producing ready- made garments, particularly for knitwear items, yet again as the trade body believes the recently revised rates are not realistic. The commerce ministry usually sets the rate to curb irregular practices in cotton and yarns that are allowed to be imported duty- free. The Commerce Ministry has revised the maximum wastage rates to 27% from 16% for the production of basic knit items – such as t-shirts, polo shirts, trousers, shorts, skirts, pyjamas. The revision was made as per the recommendation of a committee that the ministry formed a year ago following requests of the manufacturers. Apart from the basic items, the authori- ties for the first time, creating separate cate- gories, set a wastage rate of 4% for sweaters, socks and similar items, 30% for special items including rompers, gowns, and hoodies. However, the BKMEA Executive President Mohammad Hatem, in a letter to the Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi, expressed his concern over the newly-set rates and said the actual wastage was high- er than the newly set rates. In the letter, the apex trade body of the knitwear producers urged the government to raise rates to 30% for basic knit items, 35% for special items, and 12% sweaters and socks items. In the meeting, stakeholders concerned presented detailed data on the actual wastage rates with practical explanations. Sadly, the reevaluation of the rates did not reflect it, said the letter. Around 90% of knitwear are basic items. The letter also reads that no sweater fac- tory has been inspected by the committee so far but the wastage rate is fixed at 4% for the items, which is completely unreason- ...Contd. On Page 20
  • 25. Industry News Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 20 www.TextileExcellence.com Latest Tech To Be Used For Water Reuse: BGMEA L atest technology will be used for water reuse at BGMEA Garment Village of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar at Mirsharai in Chattogram to cut water use in garment factories. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan said this after visiting the development works of plots at the Garments Village. About supplying groundwater to the factories, Faruque Hassan said that BGMEA was working on zero water dis- charge. We have reduced water use in the factories to one-third by using technology. We want to reduce it further in the Mirsharai factories. We will arrange for the water reservoir so that the groundwater level does not deplete, he said. He observed that the development works in the BGMEA Village have not yet been completed. The level of the village plots is lower than the adjacent plots. The protection wall beside the sea has not yet been constructed. The internal roads are also not completed yet, he added. We have not got our completed vil- lage. That's why we could not distribute the plots among our members. We will sit with Beza in Dhaka. We want our members who got allotment of plots to start the work soon, he said. As the industrial estate is close to the Chattogram Port, the export-import will be easier, Faruque observed. Referring to the success of the green factories, the BGMEA president said it has helped a lot in gaining confidence globally. We are now getting good work orders. Green factories will be constructed in Mirsharai too, he said. The Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (Beza) and the BGMEA signed an MoU on 21 March of 2018 for the allocation of 500 acres of land at the Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar. As many as 48 factories have got an allocation of 291 acres of land. BGMEA has paid Tk 209 crore to the Beza authorities. In March 2021, 41 factories applied for 190 acres of land allotment in the industri- al estate where they want to invest US$ 1,100 million. There will be an opportunity to generate employment for four lakh peo- ple in this garment village. ■ About supplying groundwater to the factories, Faruque Hassan said that BGMEA was working on zero water discharge. able. The rate in sweater production is usu- ally more than 12%, the BKMEA said. The new rates set by the order will pave a new way for the officials to make irregularities. Manufacturers will be harassed, said Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, vice-president of BKMEA. Meanwhile, some apparel manufactur- ers did not agree with the BKMEA and said the newly set rates were rational. Experts also said it was expected to reduce wastage rates thanks to the latest technology and machinery. Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Dr Khondaker Golam Moazzem believes that the wastage rates should be reduced thanks to modern tech- nology and machinery usage. Meanwhile, a revenue board senior offi- cial said the wastage rate for basic knit items should be fixed at 20%. The newly- set 27% is much higher. For the irrational maximum limit for wastage, the government would lose revenue, he said. ■ BKMEA Demands Raise In Wastage... ....Contd. From Page 19 “ BGMEA is working on zero water discharge in the Mirsharai factories. BGMEA has helped members reduce water usage to one-third with the use of technology. “
  • 26. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Techtalk 21 www.TextileExcellence.com L anificio F.lli Cerruti, a historical excellence of Made in Italy as well as one of the most prestigious Italian woolen mills, has selected Itema, leading manufacturer of advanced weav- ing solutions, for its new weaving expan- sion. Itema will supply thirty new weaving machines that will be installed in the Biella manufacturing plant. The new weaving machines are set to increase the produc- tion capacity and the overall manufactur- ing efficiency, but in the first place they will contribute to further enhancing fabric quality and processes sustainability. After a strategic study based on a careful market and competitors’ assess- ment, Lanificio Cerruti identified the Itema rapier weaving machine as the best tech- nology to meet its demanding needs and Itema as the ideal candidate to forge a partnership grounded on shared values. The Itema rapier R9500² ensures to Lanificio Cerruti the highest sustainability levels in three different fields: - Environmental, as it is designed to reduce energy consumption and waste of raw materials; - Social, thanks to the ergonomic fea- tures that simplify and protect weavers; - Economic, due to the delicate treat- ment of the yarns which leads to raw materials saving and quality improvement; furthermore, the remote monitoring allows to minimise interruptions and failures. With this agreement Lanificio Cerruti and Itema, excellences of Made in Italy respectively in the fashion and in the weaving machinery industries, start a cooperation based on the common orien- tation towards an increasingly sustainable innovation, meant to generate value while respecting the environment and people. Lanificio F.lli Cerruti joins with great satisfaction a partner of excellence as Itema to undertake a path that will help us to further enhance the concept of creative luxury, so inherent in the DNA of our com- pany, commented Filippo Vadda, President and CEO of Lanificio Cerruti. This partnership is the evidence of our strong commitment to an increasingly positive impact on the planet and on future generations - since at Lanificio Cerruti sustainability means looking ahead using the best available technology. “We are proud to work with Lanificio Cerruti. It is not just a technological part- nership, but the beginning of a co-devel- opment journey that will allow us to design and implement solutions of great value, added Ugo Ghilardi, CEO of the Itema Group. We firmly believe that together we will give prestige to the Made in Italy cre- ativity and innovation, which are admired all over the world. The new Itema weaving machines will be installed in the Biella plant of Lanificio Cerruti starting from March 2022. Itema is a leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. The compa- ny is the only manufacturer in the world to provide the top three weft insertion tech- nologies: rapier, air jet and projectile, with an ample product portfolio and a commit- ment to continuous innovation and tech- nological advancement of its weaving machines.. Itema is the sole shareholder of Lamiflex, leading producer of advanced composite products and owns majority stakes of Schoch, manufacturer of textile industry accessories. Sixty percent of Itema is held by Gianni Radici’s family heirs (the siblings Angelo, Maurizio, Paolo, Maria Grazia and Bruna). The remaining shares belong to the Arizzi and Torri families. ■ Lanificio Cerruti Selects ITEMA’s Pioneering Weaving Technology Filippo Vadda, President CEO, Lanificio Cerruti Ugo Ghilardi, CEO, ITEMA Group
  • 27. Techtalk Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 22 www.TextileExcellence.com Vandewiele nv, Savio India Finalise Merger Process Automatic Dosing Systems : Fast, Accurate And Eco-Friendly V andewiele nv and Savio India have announced finalisation of the merg- ing process, creating a global net- work for their customers. The two compa- nies will operate under the new name of VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED. “We are convinced that these joined forces provide a comprehensive network of integrated services that will better serve our customer’s needs for the Indian market”. This strategic alliance is set to immensely benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these two leading groups, offering complete weav- ing, winding, twisting solutions to the Indian customers, will give them a sus- tainable competitive advantage in their business. The merger of the Group activities has resulted in a wide range of synergies in the service, care solutions and developments, with benefits for the customers. VAN- DEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA is ready to provide the region with high class textile machines with cost effectiveness and the best support. ■ E stablished in 1987, Color Service is an Italian leading company in the development and production of automatic dosing systems of powder and liquid products. The technology is developed to solve problems associated with the manual weighing of products and it is designed with the aim to abandon tradi- tional and outdated production methods that inevitably would not allow to get a safe, fast and precise dosing. Dyeing right the first time is a mandatory condition to hold down costs, meet customer deliveries, to avoid uncontrolled weighing mistakes, and to avoid waste of products (both for chemicals, auxiliaries and for powder dyes). The different production phases needed to have the finished fabric or garment had to be monitored in order to retrace the origin of the eventual defect. Color Service offers solutions for both production and laboratory, from automatic dosing and dissolving system for dyestuffs, liquids, auxiliaries and powder chemicalsfor dyeing and print- ing houses. The company is the first to introduce into the market the first automatic dos- ing systems for dyestuffs, changing the approach of textile market towards the automation. Its weighing unit mod. TRS automatically weighs any type of dyestuff in powder or in granule form through high speed irrigation screws and with a special scraper a remarkable accuracy within small weighing can be achieved. This unit is combined with the wide range of automatic dissolving systems, which dissolve the dosed recipe and transfer it to the customer's destinations based on the dissolution parameters and the amount to feed dye- ing machines. In addition to this, Color Service produces gravimetric/volumetric auto- matic dosing system for liquid chemi- ...Contd. On Page 27
  • 28. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 Techtalk 23 www.TextileExcellence.com cals and auxiliaries, merging the speed of volumetric meas- urement with the precision of gravimetric dosing, as well as dosing/dissolving units for powder chemicals (Salt, Soda, Sodium), preparing the solution without alteration of the cor- rect liquor ratio. In the textile sector, the laboratory dyeing is fundamental to simulate the real dyeing production process. A wide range of laboratory equipment is designed and provided by Color Service such as automatic dyeing batches and solutions maker, volumetric solutions dosing system with pipetting, automatic dye and chemical dispenser for small machines. All Color Service dispensing systems are able to guaran- tee a high accuracy of the dosing, reproducibility of the recipes, high production speed that makes the production process repetitive 24/7 and reliable, allowing a “zero defects” production. Thus limiting the human intervention and reducing to zero the risk factors. All processes of the systems are traceable as well as automatically monitored and data are recorded in the software developed to be user friendly and intuitive. All Color Service production is entirely made in Italy on three premises (total production area 15.000 sqm, with 160 people working), a unique feature that is synonymous with cutting-edge systems and high technology. The solutions offered by Color Service are the result of continuous researches and studies, especially oriented to the environmental sustainability. For this reason, Color Service has invested heavily in research and development and is now able to guarantee a completely closed and aspirated system with absolute control of the dust emitted during the weighing and the suction of the product that are recovered and reintro- duced into the production cycle with obvious ecological and economic benefits. “Indeed, one of the cardinal goal of our technology is to drastically reduce environmental and ecological risks with the restraint of energy/water consumption, the reduction of envi- ronmental pollution and material wasting in order to create a sustainable finished product for customers,” says the company. With 35 years of activity, Color Service obtained reward- ing results such as widespread commercial net, constant technical assistance through remote or onsite support and a large clientele that includes the most renowned textile compa- nies in the world. “Thanks to our system’s automation, we guarantee our customers more production in less time, more coordination, reduction of the margins of error in all the processing phases, more energy saving, less wastes, more company profits and more safety for the operators.” ■ Automatic Dosing Systems... ....Contd. From Page 26
  • 29. Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition „ February 2022 24 www.TextileExcellence.com