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Puntadas y costuras

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Puntadas y costuras

  1. 1. PUNTADAS YCOSTURASTALLER DE CONFECCIÓN BÁSICAPROGRAMA DE DISEÑO DE MODASUniversidad de BoyacáMg. Mónica Marcela Sánchez
  2. 2. DEFINICIONESTOMADAS DEL DICCIONARIO TEXTIL Y DEL VESTIR - MANUEL ESTANY PUNTADA (stitch) Es la unidad de entrelazado de uno o varios hilos entre sí o a través o dentro de un material, a intervalos más o menos uniformes. COSTURA (seam) Es el conjunto constituido por una o varias series de puntadas que pueden unir dos o mas piezas de material. PESPUNTE(stitching) Una serie de puntadas cuya función es simplemente servir como adorno o realce o dar terminación. COSIDO (sewing). Proceso de formar pespuntes o costuras. ISO 4915
  3. 3. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 100PUNTADA DE CADENETA SIMPLE ( SIMPLE CHAIN STITCH) Se forma por una o varias agujas en donde el hilo se entrelaza consigo mismo o con el de otras agujas. Costura elástica Se deshace fácilmente. Derecho y revés son diferentes. Usos: cerrado de costales, hilván, costura invisible, pegado de botones, adorno.
  4. 4. GRUPO 100PUNTADA DE CADENETA SIMPLE ( SIMPLE CHAIN STITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  5. 5. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 200PUNTADAS A MANO ( HAND STITCHES) Se forma por una aguja y un solo hilo. Pueden ser definitivas, provisionales o de adorno. Usos: según el propósito: bordado, unión de piezas, dobladillos, ojales. En este grupo también se encuentra las puntadas hechas a máquina para decoración.
  6. 6. GRUPO 200PUNTADAS A MANO ( HAND STITCHES)
  7. 7. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 300PUNTADA DOBLE, DE PESPUNTE ( LOCKSTITCH) Se forma por una o varias agujas y dos series de hilos que se entrelazan entre ambos con lo que se asegura el material y se cierra la puntada ( generalmente son aguja y caja bobina). Costura rígida. No se deshace fácilmente. Igual aspecto por el derecho y revés. Usos: unión de piezas, presillado, bolsillos, dobladillos.
  8. 8. GRUPO 300PUNTADA DOBLE, DE PESPUNTE ( LOCKSTITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  9. 9. GRUPO 300PUNTADA DOBLE, DE PESPUNTE ( LOCKSTITCH)http://www.wireworld.com/amefird/stitchtypematrixflyersp.pdf
  10. 10. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 400PUNTADA DE CADENETA MULTIPLE ( DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH) Se forma con una o varias agujas y dos o más series de hilos, entrelazándose los hilos de la segunda serie entre sí y este conjunto con los de la primera serie.( aguja y garfio-looper). Puntada de seguridad. Costura elástica y resistente. No se deshace tan fácilmente. Derecho y revés diferentes. Usos: adorno, unión de piezas, recubierto.
  11. 11. GRUPO 400PUNTADA DE CADENETA MULTIPLE ( DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  12. 12. GRUPO 400PUNTADA DE CADENETA MULTIPLE ( DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH)http://www.wireworld.com/amefird/stitchtypematrixflyersp.pdf
  13. 13. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 500PUNTADA DE SOBREORILLAR (OVEREDGE STITCH, OVERLOCK STITCH)sobrehilar Conocida también como costura de rematar, sobrehilar, porque da terminado a las orillas del material(2). Para estos casos no se cortan los bordes. Se forma con una o varias agujas y dos o más series de hilos, que se entrelazan entre sí en el borde del material. Pueden ser 2, 3, o 4 hilos. Costura plana y poco visible. Usos: unión de extremos de tejidos, no permitir deshilachado, géneros de punto.
  14. 14. GRUPO 500PUNTADA DE SOBREORILLAR (OVEREDGE STITCH, OVERLOCK STITCH)sobrehilarhttp://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  15. 15. GRUPO 500PUNTADA DE SOBREORILLAR (OVEREDGE STITCH, OVERLOCK STITCH)sobrehilarhttp://www.wireworld.com/amefird/stitchtypematrixflyersp.pdf
  16. 16. GRUPO 500PUNTADA DE SOBREORILLAR (OVEREDGE STITCH, OVERLOCK STITCH)sobrehilarhttp://www.wireworld.com/amefird/stitchtypematrixflyersp.pdf
  17. 17. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 600PUNTADA DE RECUBRIR(COVER STITCH) Se forma con una o varias agujas y dos o más series de hilos, entrelazándose entre sí y sujetando y cubriendo el borde del material. Pueden ser 3, o más hilos (collarín) Costura elástica y resistente para tejidos de punto. Puntada de recubierto. Usos: adorno, unión de piezas en ropa interior y deportiva:recubierto.
  18. 18. GRUPO 600PUNTADA DE RECUBRIR(COVER STITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  19. 19. GRUPO 600PUNTADA DE RECUBRIR(COVER STITCH)http://www.wireworld.com/amefird/stitchtypematrixflyersp.pdf
  20. 20. CLASIFICACION DEPUNTADASGRUPO 800PUNTADA COMBINADA(COMBINED STITCH) Se forma por dos o mas filas de puntadas efectuadas simultáneamente y que cada una corresponde a los grupos ya descritos. Pueden ser 3, o más hilos. Costura elástica y resistente para todo tipo de tejidos. Usos: unión de piezas (puntada de seguridad).
  21. 21. GRUPO 800PUNTADA COMBINADA(COMBINED STITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  22. 22. GRUPO 800PUNTADA COMBINADA(COMBINED STITCH)http://themagazineapparelsourcing.com/magazine/un-vistazo-rapido-a-los-tipos-de-puntadas/?lang=es
  23. 23. CLASIFICACION DECOSTURASCOSTURAS GRUPO SSCOSTURAS SOBREPUESTAS /SOLAPADAS(SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS) Se dan con la unión de dos o más telas que se superponen y pueden estar unidas por una o más filas de puntadas. Hay diferentes tipos de costuras SS de acuerdo a la forma en que se unen.
  24. 24. COSTURAS GRUPO SSCOSTURAS SOBREPUESTAS (SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS)http://cursos.fadu.uba.ar/apuntes/Indumentaria%20I/unidad%20teorica%20n%204/18%20-tecnologia%20del%20sector%20costura%201%20Puntadas%20y%20pespuntes.pdf
  25. 25. CLASIFICACION DECOSTURASCOSTURAS GRUPO LSCOSTURAS SOBRECARGADAS / SOLAPADAS ( LAPED SEAMS) Las piezas de material están superpuestas por los orillos y unidas por una o mas filas de puntadas. Hay diferentes tipos de costuras LS de acuerdo a la forma en que se unen y se carga la costura.
  26. 26. COSTURAS GRUPO LSCOSTURAS SOBRECARGADAS / SOLAPADAS ( LAPED SEAMS)http://cursos.fadu.uba.ar/apuntes/Indumentaria%20I/unidad%20teorica%20n%204/18%20-tecnologia%20del%20sector%20costura%201%20Puntadas%20y%20pespuntes.pdf
  27. 27. CLASIFICACION DECOSTURASCOSTURAS GRUPO BS: COSTURAS DE RIBETEAR ( BOUND SEAMS) Las costuras están formadas por un ribete doblado que recubre el orillo de una o mas piezas y están unidas a el mediante una o mas filas de puntadas. Ese elemento puede ser un sesgo o un ribete. Hay diferentes tipos de costuras BS de acuerdo a la forma en que se unen y las puntadas que tengan.
  28. 28. COSTURAS GRUPO BS: COSTURAS DE RIBETEAR ( BOUND SEAMS)http://cursos.fadu.uba.ar/apuntes/Indumentaria%20I/unidad%20teorica%20n%204/18%20-tecnologia%20del%20sector%20costura%201%20Puntadas%20y%20pespuntes.pdf
  29. 29. CLASIFICACION DECOSTURASCOSTURAS GRUPO FS: COSTURAS PLANAS ( FLAT SEAMS).COSTURAS GRUPO OS: COSTURAS DE PESPUNTE DE ADORNOCOSTURAS GRUPO EF: COSTURAS DE CANTO FS: Formadas uniendo los bordes de tal forma que las puntadas cubren el orillo u orillos de las piezas cosidas. OS: pespuntes que siguen una línea recta, curva o adorno. EF: serie de puntadas situadas en, sobre orillo del material doblado o sin doblar. Hay diferentes tipos de costuras FS, OS, EF de acuerdo a la forma en que se unen.
  30. 30. COSTURAS GRUPO FS: COSTURAS PLANAS ( FLAT SEAMS).COSTURAS GRUPO OS: COSTURAS DE PESPUNTE DE ADORNOCOSTURAS GRUPO EF: COSTURAS DE CANTO
  31. 31. PUNTADAS YCOSTURASTALLER DE CONFECCIÓN BÁSICAPROGRAMA DE DISEÑO DE MODASUniversidad de BoyacáMg. Mónica Marcela Sánchez

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