5. What is Soil
• Soil is a mixture of materials that
supports plant growth
• Soil Components
• Inorganic – Weathered rock , air , and
water
• Organic – Living , and dead animals ,
and plants
7. Sand
• Soils with lots of sand have big spaces
between the particles.
• It does not hold water or nutrients. Sand
doesn't react with other chemicals.
• Sandy soils don't stick together very well.
Plant roots can't hold onto this soil.
• But the big spaces do allow air into the soil.
There are some plants that are able to grow in
sandy topsoil by putting their roots deep,
through the sand to the subsoil.
8. Silt
• Too Light. Its finer than sand, but still feels
gritty.
• Silt is commonly found in floodplains and is
the soil component that makes mud.
• Soils with a lot of silt make excellent farm
land, but erode easily. This is the soil blown
away in dust storms and carried down stream
in floods.
9. Clay
• Too Fine. clay makes the soil heavy and dense.
• The spaces between soil particles are very tiny.
• Dry Clay is like concrete roots can't push through it.
• No air can get in from the surface.
• Most bacteria and other soil organisms that need
oxygen
• But clay is important because it can change the soil
chemistry. Clays give off minerals and absorb acids.
10.
11. Loam • The perfect soil for plants
and organisms
• This soil has enough large
and small spaces for air and
water to flow in. It also has
enough clay to let it stick
together and holdhumus.
• When gardeners call a soil
"loamy." It's the nicest thing
they can say about soil.
12. Soil Structure
• Soil structure describes the arrangement of
the solid parts of the soil and of the pore
space located between them (Marshall &
Holmes, 1979). It is dependent on: what the
soil developed from; the environmental
conditions under which the soil formed; the
clay present, the organic materials present;
and the recent history of management
13. Soil Compaction
• Soil compaction changes the structure
of the soil.
• Water pools on top, and inhibits Oxygen
from getting to roots
14. Prevent soil compaction
• Step gingerly
• Wet soil compacts easier
• Bark , Mulch, grass clippings
between rows can help prevent
compaction
• Mulch also increases worm
activity
• Raised beds
15. Repairing soil compaction
• Soil compaction is hard
to repair …So prevent
it.
• Till or turn organic
material into top 6 to 8
inches of soil
16. All soil is not equal
• Have soil tested
• Best is 6.0 to 6.8
• 7.0 is Neutral
• Lower = acid
• Higher= Alkaline
• Organic Content
• Get it tested
18. Primary Macronutrients
• nitrogen (N)
• phosphorus (P)
• potassium (K).
• These major nutrients usually are
lacking from the soil first because
plants use large amounts for their
growth and survival.
19. Secondary Macronutrients
• calcium (Ca)
• magnesium (Mg)
• sulfur (S).
• There are usually enough of these nutrients in
the soil
• Also, large amounts of Calcium and
Magnesium are added when Lime is added to
acidic soil.
• Sulfur usually comes slow decomposition of
soil organic matter.
20. Micronutrients
• boron (B)
• copper (Cu)
• iron (Fe)
• chloride (Cl)
• manganese (Mn)
• molybdenum (Mo)
• zinc (Zn).
• Organic matter such as grass clippings and
tree leaves is an excellent way of providing
micronutrients (as well as macronutrients)
to growing plants
21. Mycorrhizal fungi are well
known for their role in
assisting plants in the uptake
of phosphorus.
Ectomycorrhizal fungi can
benefit plants by
promoting root branching
and increasing nitrogen,
phosphorus and water
uptake due to their large
surface area and internal
cellular mechanisms.
24. • Mushroom Compost
• Worm Castings • Leaves
• Compost Tea ( activates soil ) • The list is long
• Leaf Mulch/ Mold • Organic Material , Organic
• Pine Bark Fines Material , Organic Material
• Peat Moss (retains water)
• Sand Bad things for healthy soil
• Coir • No bare soil
• Leaves • No Pesticides
• Grass Clippings • No over tilling
• Aged Manure , Chicken , Cow , • Soil Compaction
Horse , Bunny
25.
26. When to work your soil
• Make sure the soil has dried sufficiently
before you work it.
• Working wet soil will damage the soil's
structure. Squeeze a handful of soil, and if it
crumbles away easily, it's ready. If it sticks
together in a muddy ball, its not ready.
• First year gardens work the soil at least 6
inches deep.
27. Why not till Every Year
• Soil is more than just dirt its alive
with worms, spiders, small
invertebrate animals Fungi,
bacteria.
• All this Supports Soil Structure.
• Deep tilling means repeatedly
cutting up soil with a roto-tiller.
• This does not apply to Hoeing,
Shovel turning soil, or tilling in a
new garden
• This does not apply to tilling in
green manure. Or organic soil
amendments.
28. Basics for a New
Garden
• Always Call Underground Utilities 811
29. Now We Are Ready
• Mark out your garden
• Remove all weeds using a shovel.
• Remove as much of the root as possible.
• Do not chop up weeds with a rototiller for quicker
removal--you're simply making hundreds of little
weeds.
• If you decide on chemical removal. Follow
directions, know the risk
30. Deep Till 8” to 12”
•Break up dirt clods with the
shovel as needed.
• Till the entire garden plot from
front to back, and repeat
31.
32. • Rake the garden to level the surface.
• Clean out weeds, roots etc..
• Add Soil Amendments
33. Step 4
• Pour soil amendments onto the soil,
spreading them along the entire top
surface of the soil.
• Peat moss aerates the soil and helps with
moisture absorption.
• Compost will boost the soil nutrients.
• Sand can help poor draining soil ( mix well)
• Add Fertilizer now if needed
34. • Till or use a shovel to turn over the entire
garden again.
• Move slowly if you're using a rototiller to
allow the additives to be worked throughout
the soil.
• Break up clods with a rake and shovel. Level
the garden as much as possible.
• Now you are ready to plant your new garden.
35. Preparing your Existing Garden
• If you have a small area cover it with a tarp,
black plastic, cardboard etc.
• This will keep weeds from getting a early
hold.
• Putting down leaves or grass clippings in the
fall will keep weeds down
36. Preparing your Existing Garden
• Hand pull weeds, Make sure to get roots
• Pull out debris with garden rake
• Hoe or turn with a shovel top 2-4” of soil
• Level out with rake
• Now you are ready to plant
37. Try a Lasagna Garden
• Layers on top of grass
• Cardboard or newspaper
on bottom
• Then Layers of Green &
Brown
• Top with soil
• Water each layer in
38. Keep weeds down with mulch
• Grass Clippings – Cut grass before it goes to
seed. Clippings will add nitrogen to the soil.
About 2” at a time , not near stems.
• Newspaper – Avoid using paper with colored
inks; it can blow away in the wind.
• Yard waste – Cut up any branches or woody
material. . Takes a long time to decompose.
• Compost – Needs to be ‘finished’ compost so as
not to attract pests. Compost is a good early
season mulch, but as the plant begins fruiting,
you should withhold sources of nitrogen.
39.
40. More Mulches
• Hay – Good mulch – weed seeds may be introduced.
• Straw – Good source of carbon; excellent mulch
• Fine bark – Can be acidic. You may need to add lime
• Wood Shavings – Avoid shavings from chain saws or
tools that leave oil .
• Leaves – A valuable source of carbon, leaves make
excellent mulch.
• Forest duff – Pine needles, twigs, woody bits are
useful, but can be acidic.
• Woody mulches are great in walkways …not planting
beds.
