1. WORKSHOP
TECHNOLOGY
BME 1023
PREPARED TO :
• EN.MUKHTAR
PREPARED BY :
• MUHAMMAD AMIR BIN MUDIN
(13B02012)
• AMMAR IRSYAD JUFRI BIN JOHARI
(13B02003)
• HASBULLOH BIN MOHD NOOR
(13B02005)
• MUHAMMAD AMIR BIN AWANG
JAAFAR (13B02011)
• NOR AJUAR BT ABDULLAH (13B02022)
• NANI SHAJIEHA BT ZAWAWI
(13B02021)
• SITI ZULAIKHA BT MOHD ROSLI
(13B02024)
BASIC
HAND
TOOLS

2. BASIC HAND TOOLS
• A basic hand tool is any tool that is not
a power tool – that is, one powered by hand
(manual labour) rather than by an engine.
• Some examples of hand tools
are hammers, spanners, pliers,screwdrivers
and chisels.
• Hand tools are generally less dangerous than
power tools.

3. Advantages of BASIC HAND TOOLS.
• Hand tools offer the advantage of precision.
• Fine carving and detailed work such as cabinetry,
building of musical instruments and decorative work
requires minute control over a tool that is sometimes
easier with hand tools.
• Hand tools also always work. You require no power,
fuel or air pressure and can utilize the tool at any
time.
• The smaller and more compact nature of hand tools
compared to power tools makes them easier and
lighter to transport as well.

4. Disadvantages of BASIC HAND TOOLS.
• The primary disadvantage of hand tools is the time that it takes to
complete simple tasks.
• Hammering shingles into a roof by hand, for instance, takes much
more time than nailing down shingles with an air-nailer.
• Industrial woodworking companies could never meet demand
with handsaws.
• Also, more skill is required to use hand tools than most power
tools.
• Making a clean and straight cut using a handsaw is much more
difficult than when using a tool like a table saw with guides and a
high cutting speed

5. EXAMPLE OF
BASIC HAND
TOOLS.

6. 1.HAMMER
• Hammers are often
designed for a specific
purpose, and vary in
their shape and
structure.
• The term hammer is
also used for some
devices that are
designed to deliver
blows
• The hammer is a
basic tool of many
professions. The usual
features are a handle
and a head, with most
of the weight in the
head.

7. WAY TO USE???
• Check the hammer before use
• Get a firm grip on the handle.
• Hold the hammer at the end of the handle.
• Hit your surface squarely with the hammer.
• Use your whole arm and elbow.
• Place your work against a hard surface.
• Work in a natural position.
• Check before you swing.

8. 2. NAIL
SET
Tool used to
drive nail
heads
below the
surface.

9. WAY TO USE ??
• Grab a pair of ear plugs too because it’s
loud. It’s important to get a nail set that has a
dimple on the end. That way it won’t slip off the
nail head so easily.
• Place the nail set over the nail.
• Hammer until the nail is sunk and you have
enough of a depression in the wood to fill with
wood filler
• Sand down the wood that pushed out around
the nail set and then fill with wood filler, prime
and paint. That spot should disappear.

10. 3. CROSSCUT
SAW
A saw with
small teeth
(more teeth
per inch) for
cutting across
the grain of
wood.

11. WAY TO USE??
• Hold the wood down so it will not move. Mark the location where you will make the cut.
• Extend the end to be cut about one foot past the end of the sawhorse.Make sure the cut
location is off the sawhorse.
• Hold the saw in your dominant hand, using the other hand to hold the wood.Keep fingers
clear of the area to be cut.
• Slowly draw the blade of the saw on the mark on the wood at a 45 degree angle.
• Do this a couple of times until a groove is started in the wood.
Then slowly start to saw the wood, keeping the blade against the wood at all times. Do not
let the blade come off the wood
• Be consistent with your strokes and use most of the length blade. It is not a knife, so do not
try to use it as one.
• Let the saw do the work. As long as you see sawdust coming from the wood, it is being cut
• When you get almost all the way through, continue sawing and try to avoid breaking the
wood.

12. 4. STEEL
FILE
A steel hand
tool with
small sharp
teeth used
for
sharpening
or shaping.

13. Way to use??
• Procure the workpiece, plan the operation, and layout lines indicating where
material is to be removed.
• Select a file that is best for the job.
• Clean the file.
• Chalk/oil/lard the file.
• Clamp the work in the vice.
• Now, for the actual filing, we diverge (the following 3 steps are not to be taken in
order - you may indeed only do one of them:
• For heavy cross filing, to remove material, grab the handle of the file with the
dominant hand and place the palm of the other hand on the end of the file.
Orienting the file so that it points away from you, press down firmly (so that the
file digs in and cuts the metal) and make long, slow strokes away from your body,
removing downward pressure on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file.
• For light cross filing, to remove material with a small file (as for detail work), grab
the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the fingers of the other
hand on the end of the file. Orienting the file so that it points away from you,
press down firmly (so that the file digs in and cuts the metal) and make long,
slow strokes away from your body, removing downward pressure on the return
stroke to prevent dulling the file.
• For draw filing, to make a highly finished surface, grab each side of the file with
your hands only somewhat further apart than your workpiece. Orienting the file
so that it points to your side, press down firmly (so that the file digs in and cuts
the metal) and make long, slow strokes away from your body, removing
downward pressure on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file.

14. 5. WOOD
CHISEL
A woodworking
tool for cutting,
shaping, or
smoothing
wood.

15. Way to use??
• Use a paring chisel for fine light woodwork, such as
shaving or sculpting.
• Secure the woodwork firmly on your workbench or in
your vise.
• Position the the blade at a slight slant to the line of the
wood.
• Place one hand on the chisel's blade and press it against
the surface of the wood.
• Drive the chisel with the other hand placed on the handle.
• Raise or lower the chisel handle to control the depth of
the cut.
• Repeat action and sharpen the blade as needed

16. 6. SCREW
DRIVER
• Hand-tool for
turning
(driving) screws
and sometimes
bolts or
other machine
elements with a
mating drive
system.

17. Way to use??
• Create a pilot hole. Place the screw on the driver
tip and hold both screw and tip together with
the fingers of one hand.
• Start the screw. Place the screw on the driver tip
and hold both screw and tip together with
the fingers of one hand.
• Keep driving. When the screw’s thread engages
with the wood, move your fingers that were
holding the screw in place to the screwdriver
shank

18. 7. ARCHITECT
RULER
A tool
used to
measure
"to
scale".

19. Way to use??
• Determine the scale of your plans. It will be labeled on the
plans and should be found in the bottom corner.
• Turn the ruler to the corresponding scale factor. For instance,
if the plans read ¼ inch equals one foot, you will use the ¼
inch scale on the ruler.
• Measure the desired line starting from zero on the correct
scale. In this case, you would need to use the ¼ inch scale.
• The measurement you calculate equals how many feet the
line actually is at full scale dimensions.
• Try it out several times until you get the hang of it. This will
increase your understanding of the scale ruler so you can use
it with ease.

20. 8. CHALK LINE
A tool used in
the building
trades to
make a
straight line
on a vertical
surface.

21. Way to use??
• Decide which color of chalk to use. Blue is for general purpose use. Red is
for more permanent jobs that need to last out in the weather for a few
days. White is a good choice for interior walls since it comes off easily.
There is also florescent chalk that is easier to see on certain surfaces.
• Fill the chalk reel with chalk. Open the side door on your chalk line. Pull
out about 12 inches of your line and insert the tip of the chalk bottle into
the side door. Fill about half full and close your side door.
• Pull out a large portion of the string and wind it back up 6 to 8 times to
help coat the string before the first use.
• Place the hook at the end of your first mark, using a nail or hooking it to
the end of a board. It is faster if another person can hold the end on the
mark.
• Place the reel end on the string on the other mark.
• Make sure the string is tight. Hold it up about 12 inches and let go. The
string should then snap back to the surface and make a chalk line
between the two marks.
• Wind up your string when you have finished.

22. 9. LEVEL
A tool with an
indicator that
establishes the
horizontal or
vertical, when a
bubble is
centered in a
tube of liquid.

23. Way to use??
• The surface to be levelled should be straight so the level will not
rock. Place the level in the centre of the job and adjust one end of
the work so the bubble is between the lines. The bubble rises to
the high end.
• When you think the work is level, turn the level around end to
end. Place the level back on the work in the same position. Check
the bubble again. If the level is accurate, the reading will be the
same. If not, the level may require adjusting.
• For levelling over larger areas, place a straight edge (a piece of
timber with both edges perfectly straight and parallel) along the
work. Use the level in the centre of the straight edge. Over large
distances, a string line and line level may be used.
• A more accurate method is the water level. This is a clear plastic
tube filled with water and is often used for levelling around
corners.

24. 10. SPEED
SQUARE
A trianglular
marking tool
containing both
90 and 45
degree angles. It
has a flange on
one side so you
can "square" it
against the
material.

25. Way to use??
• Draw square lines. Use the speed square to mark lines on wood at exactly 90
degrees to the wood's edge. Hold the tool against the end of the board. The lipped
edge on the speed square will help line it up. Use the side of the square to mark
the needed lines on the wood. Use the square to locate and mark studs,
positioning floor joists, and laying out stair stringers.
• Align pieces of wood at a right angle.When building cabinets, boxes, or other
furniture pieces, hold the speed square against the wood to measure angles
before cutting or attaching pieces of wood.
• Make a 45 degree line. Put the square firmly against the board and mark the
location of the diagonal edge to create a 45 degree line. As an isosceles triangle,
the square's diagonal edge is exactly at 45 degrees angle. Read and mark
angles. Look for the pivot point at the corner of the speed square. Each line along
the diagonal edge represents 1 degree, and they go from 0 to 90. Hold the pivot
point against the board, and adjust the square until the degree gradation needed
is aligned with the edge of the board. Use a pencil to draw a line along the square.
• Mark a parallel line. Press the square against the edge of the wood and place a
pencil tip into the notch that measures the number of inches needed. Slide the
square along the wood with the pencil in the notch. This will produce a straight
line that runs parallel to the edge of the wood.
• Guide a portable circular saw. Position the square flatly on the board to be cut.
Slide the saw shoe against the square, and cut. The saw will cut steadily and
accurately because the speed square is thicker than a framing square or
combination square.

26. 11. COMBINATION
SQUARE
A sliding square
mounted on a
steel rule, used
to mark a
"square" line,
find level, or
measure.

27. Way to use??
• Test for squareness.
• Adjusting the square.
• Retest for squareness.

28. 12. HAND
DRILL
A small
portable drill
held and
operated by
hand.

29. Way to use??
• The hand drill is held vertically.
• One hand holds the handle at the top whilst the second hand
rotates the other handle in a clockwise direction. This turns the
chuck and drill bit.
• Only light pressure should be used to push down on the hand drill,
if a lot of pressure is needed the drill bit is probably blunt (change
it for a sharp drill bit).
• When using the hand drill for the first few times a second person
can stand at the side to check that the hand drill is held vertically.
• As the drill bit turns through the wood, dust and chippings are
brought up to the surface where they collect. This should be
brushed away. Do not be tempted to blow it away as the dust
usually ends up in the eyes which can be very painful.

30. 13. BRACE
AND BIT
A type of
hand drill
consisting of
a bit and a
brace to hold
and turn it.

31. Way to use??
• A brace or brace and bit is a hand tool used to drill holes, usually
in wood. Pressure is applied to the top and the tool is rotated
withcgh a U-shaped grip.
• The U-shaped part is a kind of crankshaft. It gives the brace much
greater torque than other kinds of hand drill; a brace can be used
to drill much wider, and deeper, holes than can a gear-driven hand
drill.
• The price of the greater torque is lower rotational speed; it is
easy for a hand drill to achieve a rotational speed of several
hundred revolutions per minute, but it requires considerable
effort to achieve even 100 rpm with a brace. Due to the design of
the brace it tends to be easier than a power drill to keep at a
precise 90 degree angle.
• The front part of the brace consists of a chuck spindle with V-shaped
brackets or clamps inside. Turning the spindle of the chuck
in a clockwise direction tightens the drill bit in the chuck and
turning in a counter-clockwise direction loosens the bit for
removal.

32. 14. SCRAPER
A tool used
for removing
material
from a
surface.

33. Way to use??
• In use, the scraper is held at an angle of about 60° with
the surface of the work. If it is sharp and the edge
properly turned it will cut like a plane. Inexperienced
persons are often tempted to try to make the scraperdo
the work of the plane. This is a mistake for if much
material is removed the surface will become very uneven
due to the fact that the scraper tends to cut more on the
soft than on the hard spots.
• To counteract this tendency, the scraping should be done
so that the strokes of the scraper will cross one another at
an angle.

34. 15. WOOD
TURNING
TOOLS
A set of tools
used to cut
wood on a
wood lathe.

35. Way to use??
• The tool rest should be quite close to the
wood. Before turning on the lathe, spin the
wood by hand to ensure that it does not
‘catch’ on the tool rest.

37. 16.VISE

38. Way to use??
•

39. 17. SLIDING
T- BEVEL
An
adjustable
gauge for
setting and
transferring
angles.

40. Way to use??
• To originate and new angle:
• Loosen the wing nut adjustment so that the blade is free to rotate.
• Swing the blade until the desired angle between the handle of the bevel and the
blade side is made. This may be best achieved by placing a protractor on the
inside of the bevel itself (so that the protractor is resting on the wing nut) and
measuring out the desired angle.
• Lock the T bevel into place by tightening the wing nut.
• Lay the T bevel on your working surface and draw the angle by tracing along the
inside of the T bevel blade and handle.
• Cut away!
• To transfer an existing angle:
• Loosen the wing nut adjustment so that the blade is free to rotate
• Lay the T bevel against the surface of the angle cut to be copied.
• Rotate the inside edge of the blade to the existing angle until it matches the
angle being transferred.
• Tighten the wing nut until it locks the blade and handle in position.
• Place the T bevel on the working surface and transfer the angle.
• Draw out the angle by tracing along the bevel on the inside edge of the blade and
handle.

41. 18. KEY HOLE
SAW
Short hand
saw with a
tapered blade
used to cut
curves or
irregular
shapes.

42. Way to use??
• .

43. 19. SCRATCH
AWL
A sharp-pointed
tool
for marking
wood or
metal.

44. Way to use??
• Step 1
• Get the wood and use the scratch awl to mark a
point. Take the measurement twice.
• Step 2
• Position a straight edge next to the point you marked.
Firmly hold the straight edge so it doesn’t move.
• Step 3
• No matter which scratch awl size you use, make sure
to hold it at a slight angle. This way the point will be
on the straight edge. Now pull the scratch awl to you.
Use the straight edge as a guide.

45. 20. DIE
STOCK
A piece of
equipment that is
very important to
the process of
creating uniform
threads on
different types of
screw, bolts and
pipes.

46. Way to use??
• Step 1 – Clamp the Pipe on the Working Table
• To prevent the pipe from moving while you create the
threads, clamp the pipe on the side of the working
table.
• Step 2 – Insert the Pipe into the Hole of the Die Stock
• Insert the end of the pipe into the hole of the die
stock and lock it is place.
• Step 3 – Turn the Die Stock to Create the Threads
• Grasp the opposite ends of the die stock then slowly
turn the die stock clockwise. The die stock has razor
sharp blades that will cut into the pipe as you turn.

47. The End,
Thanks for lending your
attention friend and
lecturers.