UK Travelogue - Day Three

Nanc & Reubie’s Trip to the UK
A celebration of 20 & 50 years
London
Edinburgh

Day Two - Friday
Edinburgh
20 May 2011

Up at 3:30 am to get ready then catch our 6:45 am flight from Heathrow to
Edinburgh. (Reub a little fuzzy from night before.)
While waiting for the bus around 5am-ish, we watched three girls back their car
into the building. CRUNCH!! Clearly they were arriving back from a night on
the town.
Waiting with us was
an elderly woman
traveling to Italy. Her
husband recently
passed and she was
traveling for the first
time alone. She
seemed to be rather
feisty and a total
close-talker. Before
we new it, she had
nudged Reub quite a
few feet down the
sidewalk as she told
us how crappy her
travel had been so
far. Don’t get us
wrong, she certainly
was sweet and really
made us laugh. Nanc & Reubie’s Trip to the UK

The flight to Edinburg was a bit cramped, but quick. Once on the ground and
loaded like pack-mules again, searched for the correct bus to the hotel. After
some friendly banter with an AirLink driver, I located the right one. We boarded
just as the skies opened up…and did it pour!!!


Upon arrival at the Ramada-Jarvis Mount Royal, we were totally thrilled when
we walked up to the hotel. Facing Princes Street, it looked out over the
gardens toward Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile! It would be fantastic if
we can get a room facing THAT!!!

We were told we would not be
able to check in until 2:00 pm.
It was only 9 am-ish and Reubie
needed GREASE!! Fortunately,
the sky had cleared so we
stowed our bags at the front desk
and went off to find a bite to eat.

The Ramada-Jarvis Mount Royal


We walked all over New Town looking for a cool place for breakfast.
Mental note: nothing, I mean NOTHING decent opens for business until
noon in Edinburgh. We walked all over to find a place open…
Princes Street… Rose Street…
Waverly Bridge… Market Street…
Cockburn Street….
NUTHIN’! Not one place was open until noon.

The only thing open were
coffee shops; we wanted
a bit more than that.


Circling back toward the hotel along Prince’s Street, we dropped down to
walk along the Prince’s Street Gardens.


Nice view of The Castle on a clear spring day.

The Gardens were created in the
1820s following the long draining of the
Nor Loch and the creation of the New
Town. The Nor Loch was a large loch
in the centre of the city. It was heavily
polluted from centuries of sewage
draining downhill from the Old Town.
The street is named Princes Street This is the oldest working floral clock in the world.
after King George III's two eldest sons, Using thousands of flowers, it is re-created each year.
the Prince George, Duke of Rothesay
(later King George IV) and the Prince
Frederick, Duke of York and Albany.

One pass around New Town brought
us back to our hotel and we decided
to offload our coats and grab our
camera from the bags. Reub asked
at the desk if they happened to have
a room ready…and they did!
YIPPIE!!!
We took everything up, dropped it in
the room, looked out the window,
Our room
and were greeted with this
panoramic view!!
Scott
Monument

Salsibury
Craigs Edinburgh
Castle

The Dric Pub
(Nancy’s 1st haggis
Reub’s 1st fish & chips)


Since we still had time to kill before the eateries opened up, we started up
to Edinburgh Castle at the top of the hill. (PHEW!! Boy are we out of
shape!!)
Starting at the top of the Royal Mile, (oh, and a special thx to all those who
suggested that!) we walked castle parade grounds. We chose to take the
audio tour of the castle when we return to Edinburgh after our week up
north.

Edinburgh Castle Parade Grounds


Next stop was Geoffrey (Tailor)
Kiltmakers and Weavers just outside
The Castle gates. For some reason,
I could not get Reub interested in
getting a kilt. Personally, I think he
would look totally HOT in a kilt and
jacket!
I’ve never been a huge fan of
tartans, but they had some really
beautiful patterns. DAMN my wool
allergy!!!


We meandered down the Royal Mile to see what was there. (BTW…The mile
long road that stretches between Edinburgh Castle and the Holyrood Palace
actually changes names 4 times?!? What the…??) The street is full of little
shops selling kilts & cashmere scarves, museums of all sorts, oddball shops,
cafes, and pubs. Each one with a personality all it’s own.

The Royal Mile - The Royal Mile -
Looking down Looking Up

We “took 5” on a bench and took the pix above. Across the street, we noticed a
young street musician playing guitar and singing. I commented to Reub that if
he started singing “Bad, Bad Leroy Brown” I would fall off the bench laughing!!!
(Those of you with us on our trip to Germany will understand that one.)
Actually, we both broke out laughing at the prospect!!

While exploring one of the many closes that run off the
main street, we found this tiny door. Boy were they
short back then!!!


FINALLY it was time to head to The Doric for lunch. We wound our way thru the streets,
closes, and arcades to the pub. Built in the 17th century, adapted as a gastro-pub in the
18th century, The Doric Tavern comprises the Doric Bar on Market Street and the Doric
Bistro on the floor above. Claiming to be the oldest gastro-pub in the area, we heard
raves about it on the FoodNetwork.


Reub had his first dish of true UK fish & chips with mushy peas . Not a bad
place to have your first try, tho. It was really, really good! Every time he
turned his head, I’d find a way to steal a chip with tartar sauce.


NEEPS
and

TATTIES

I had my first taste of true Scottish Haggis Neeps & Tatties. Yes, I know what
your are thinking… it looks like a cross between baby food and puke, and you
would be right. The taste, however, was fantastic… well, except for the orange
goo. Not too sure what that was, but it was not very nice.


After lunch we continued down the Royal Mile. By this time, it was really getting to be a
hoppin’ place. Lots of people. We couldn’t get over the ladies wearing some of the most
inappropriate high heels. On those cobble streets?!? REALLY???
We got all the way down near Holyrood Palace when we saw the impressive Salisbury Crags.
Reub and I were approximating at what point in that hike each of us would have our heart-
attack! For logical reasons, we opted NOT to attempt the crag on our first day out.

Reub’s
Heart Attack

Nancy’s
Heart Attack


The cliff face of Salisbury Crags looks down on Edinburgh like a grand fortress. Situated in Holyrood Park, less
than a half-mile (1 km) southeast of Princes Street, the Crags represent the glaciated remains of a Carboniferous
sill, injected between sedimentary rocks which formed in a shallow sea some 340 million years ago. Glaciers
sweeping outwards from the centre of Scotland have left a classic crag-and-tail, descending gently towards
Arthur's Seat and Whinny Hill in the East. Salisbury Crags are of great significance in the development of modern
geology. At Hutton's Section, the Edinburgh geologist James Hutton (1726-97) recognised that the rock now
forming the Crags had been injected in a molten state. He was able to use this evidence to disprove the
suggestion of the influential German, Abraham Werner, that all rocks had crystallised from a supposed primordial
sea.


Looking back at the Royal Mile from the Salisbury Crags


Palace of Holyroodhouse

We were unable to tour
Holyroodhouse because they
were having a ‘do’ that day.
We did, however, walk around
the perimeter to see it from all
sides.


Palace of Holyroodhouse

Founded as a
monastery by
David I, King of
Scots in 1128, it has
served as the
principal residence
of the Kings and
Queens of Scotland
since the 15th
century. Queen
Elizabeth II spends
one week in
residence at
Holyrood Palace
at the beginning of each summer, where she carries out a range of official
engagements and ceremonies.


Making our way around the backside of Holyrood Palace we saw the
ruins of Holyrood Chapel where Mary, Queen of Scots married her
husband Lord Darnley1565.


Queen Mary’s Bath House… or not?


On the Hunt for Greyfriar’s Bobby

Cemetery

d oo y o H
rl
I was on a mission to locate Greyfriars Bobby. I knew it was near a
cemetery but was having a difficult time locating it on our map. Since
there was a cemetery close to Holyroodhouse, we walked toward it.
Worst case scenario: no Bobby, but an interesting cemetery to
explore.

On the Hunt for Greyfriar’s Bobby

There was a very tall
wall surrounding the
cemetery with no way
to get in (insert “dying
to get in” joke here.) As
it turns out, this is the
Calton New Cemetery.
Not the one associated
with Greyfriars Bobby.
We could not get in from
here so decided to
continue back to the
mile. Too bad tho, we
found out later there
were interesting things
here like…..

Calton New Cemetery
A focal point of the graveyard, just in front of
Hume’s tomb, this piece of statuary was erected in
1893. It depicts a standing figure of Abraham
Lincoln, with a freed slave giving thanks at his feet.
A bronze shield bears the old US flag, and is
wreathed in thistles to the left, and cotton to the
right. Two regimental flags lay furled, the battle
being over. The black man holds a book, indicating
that he is not only free, he is also now educated.
This was the first statue to an American President
in any country outside the USA. It is the only statue
of Lincoln in Scotland, and the only monument to
the American Civil War outside the USA. The
monument was erected at American expense to a
small group of Scots (only one of whom, William
Duff, is buried under the monument, the rest being
nearby) to whom it felt indebted, and wished their
graves to be marked, despite their later poverty.
They had all fought for the Union (the North) in the
American Civil War. The inscription, "To preserve
the jewel of liberty in the framework of Freedom" is
a quotation from the writings of Abraham Lincoln.


We continued up Calton Rd. and saw this building called ‘Studio 24’. Check out the
weird things hanging on the building.
Found out that this place is an alternative night club. Here is an interesting review
about it: “It is a grimy little club down around the back of Waverley but has some
amazing club nights on and just is one of those filthy places that are awesome.”


Back to the Royal Mile

Knowing we were on the wrong track to find
Bobby, we took this road back up to the Royal
Mile. On the other side of the wall on the left
is another graveyard and just ahead of us is
the Old Tolbooth Wynd.


Back to the Royal Mile

This close, built in 1591,
takes its name from the
Auld Tolbuith of the
Canongate.
Subsequent to its
original function, the
Tolbooth was the council
chambers of the old
Burgh of Canongate, a
police court, and latter a
prison.
The turreted steeple and
clock make this building
instantly recognizable.
The building now
the Tolbooth Tavern and a houses which tells 'The
museum
People's Story'. In doing so it provides the visitor with a
fascinating insight to the sounds, sights and smells of life
in the City's past.


Canongate Kirk

Just east of the old Tolbooth Wynd, we decided to
check out the Canongate Kirkyard.
Opened in 1691 this 17th
century kirk designed
by James Smith is unique
among Scottish churches
of this period.
Recently restored, it holds
a new Frobenius organ
1000, which is the first in
Scotland. Buried in the
kirkyard are several
famous Scots…


Canongate Kirkyard
The church was founded in 1688 and completed in 1691. A
large area of ground was purchased beyond that simply
required for the erection of the church. This appears to have
been used for burial immediately from the church's
foundation in 1688. This area is now fully occupied as a
burial ground.

The Canongate Churchyard is the resting place of several
Edinburgh notables including the economist Adam Smith,
the philosopher and Smith's biographer Dugald Stewart,
Agnes Maclehose (the "Clarinda" of Robert Burns), David
Rizzio, the murdered private secretary of Mary, Queen of
Scots, and the poet Robert Fergusson, whose statue in
bronze by David Annand stands outside the kirk gate.
Bishop James Ramsay
is also buried here.


Doctor Who Lands on the Royal Mile?

Repurposed as a coffee shop

A police box is a British telephone kiosk or callbox located in a public place for the use of members of the
police, or for members of the public to contact the police. Unlike an ordinary callbox, its telephone is
located behind a hinged door so it can be used from the outside, and the interior of the box is, in effect, a
miniature police station for use by police officers. Used in the UK since 1891, the iconic boxes underwent
may incarnations until they were phased out in the 1970’s.
Today the image of the blue police box is widely associated with the BBC program “Doctor Who”, in which
the protagonist's time machine, a TARDIS, is in the shape of a 1960s British police box. In the context of a
TARDIS, the image of the blue police box is a trademark of the BBC.


WE HAVE DECLARED THAT IT IS BEER:30!!

We stopped for a few at The Mitre
Pub and spent a while resting and
people watching.

They had a cider on tap called
“Aspall” which was the best one of
the entire trip!

MMMMMM…
Tennant’s is my
new favourite!


STILL BEER:30!!
We wandered down another street and had one at The Malt Shovel. A real nice gal
behind the bar suggested another bar to visit called The Banshee. She said that there
was a really cool room there that was actually part of the original catacombs.
She also showed
where there was a
bead shop one block
over from The
Banshee and well as
where Greyfriar’s
Bobby was located.


The Banchee Labyrinth

I sent Reuben to The Banshee while I went over a block to check out the bead
shop that didn’t exist.


The Banchee Labyrinth

Returning to The Banshee to meet up with Reub I found a …
ehm …well …let’s just say, it was a rather gothic-style bar with
severe slant toward the S&M crowd. Needless to say, Reuben
was nowhere to be found in any of the inner catacombs.
Wandering around in a place like that just before all the
‘regulars’ started to get there is pretty interesting, I can even
imagine what it would be like during peek-time. Wait, make
that….I DON’T want to imagine that!!!

I found Reub at the top of the street
looking a little weirded-out.

Did I see the original catacombs?
Ehm……Yes I did…‘Nuf said. Nanc & Reubie’s Trip to the UK

Greyfriars Bobby

Intent on visiting The Greyfriar’s Bobby Pub and the associated kirkyard, I dragged Reub
around the off-streets just north of Edinburgh Castle. (for those paying attention, that is
actually back to the top of the Royal Mile…I can tell you, our dogs were barking!!)
Completed in 1620, the structure holds a key role in the
history of Scotland. This is where the National Covenant
was signed in 1638, marking the Protestant stand against
the imposition of an Episcopal church by King Charles I.
Despite many key historical happenings at The Greyfriar’s,
it is mostly known for the story of a dog named Bobby.
Bobby’s master was buried in the kirkyard behind the pub
and lived by the grave from his master’s death in 1858 until
his own death in 1872. He was fed and watered by the
people of the pub for as long as he lived in the kirkyard.
Bobby was laid to rest in the kirkyard of his master and
his statue stands outside the
Greyfriar’s Kirk, just in front
of the pub.


The Story of Greyfriars Bobby
Bobby was a black Skye Terrier who belonged to John Gray, a night watchman for the
Edinburgh City Police. Bobby and John were inseparable. They were both frequent
visitors to the café at #6 Greyfriars Place.

When John died of tuberculosis in 1858, Bobby was two years old. John was buried
unceremoniously in Greyfriars Kirkyard in the old town of Edinburgh without a
gravestone. It is said that from then on, Bobby stayed in this graveyard guarding over
his master’s grave. He left the grave only for his midday meal at the same restaurant at
#6 Greyfriars Place at the sound of the one o’ clock gun. The keeper of the graveyard,
after many attempts to remove Bobby, gave up and finally provided a make shift shelter
Bobby
space for him next to John Gray’s grave. The dog soon became the talk of the town

The restaurant was taken over by John Traill in 1862, as The Refreshment Rooms & Temperance
Coffee House. The restaurant’s employees and clientele looked after Bobby and John Traill did
not complain about the additional business that was drawn to his establishment. A by-law passed
in 1862 dictated that dogs must have a license or they would be destroyed and Bobby was in
danger of being put down in 1867 when Traill refused to pay for his license. Sir William Chambers
(The Lord Provost of Edinburgh) paid Bobby’s license himself, and presented him
with a collar with the brass inscription “Greyfriars Bobby from the Lord Provost 1867 licensed”.

Bobby with the Bobby died in 1872 after fourteen years of
Traill family standing vigil for his master, John Gray.
Rightly so, everyone believed that Bobby should
be buried near his master. However, he could not be buried within the
kirkyard itself since it was regarded "consecrated" ground. To get around that, Bobby was buried just
inside the gate of Greyfriars kirkyard, about 75 yards from John Gray’s grave.


The Story of Greyfriars Bobby
A year after Bobby’s death, Baroness Burdett-Coutts was so moved by
the story she financed the erection of a granite fountain and statue of
Bobby in 1873. Designed as a water fountain for both humans and
dogs, she dedicated it to John Traill “the kind friend of poor faithful
Greayfriars Bobby.” Originally it was erected opposite the Kirkyard
facing the graveyard. But later it was turned around, allegedly by the
owner of the Greyfriars Bobby’s bar, so that the bar would appear in the
background of the statue in the countless photographs people took of
this faithful dog.

A red granite stone was erected on Bobby's grave by The Dog Aid
Society of Scotland, and unveiled by the Duke of Gloucester on 13 May
Baroness Burdett-Coutts
1981. In a shrine-like manner, people have paid their respects with
sticks (for Bobby to fetch) and occasionally dog toys, flowers etc. The headstone is engraved with
these words which are apt:
“Greyfriars Bobby – died 14th January 1872 – aged 16 years – Let his
loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all”.

Great story, doncha
think?


Greyfriars Kirkyard

After an enjoyable pint in the pub, we strolled
over to the Greyfriar’s kirkyard. In an odd twist
of fate, after seeing a monument to a dog, I
found myself having to remove doggie-poopie
from my boot.

It sure must have been from a large and healthy
pooch…It wouldn’t come off!! (Later that
evening found me in the loo of the hotel using
an extra toothbrush from the plane to get it off.)


Greyfriars Kirkyard

Some that know us may be aware of our interest
in old graveyards. Creepy, perhaps, but it is really
interesting to read about the people from the
epitaphs on the stones. The engravings can be
quite insightful and offer a small glimpse into the
life and times of the past.
From the simple to the extravagant, we find it just
fascinating to visit these hallowed grounds on a
beautiful day like this.


Rose Street

After the kirkyard, we trekked up and over High Street, back to
Rose Street to find a place for dinner. As we walked Rose Street,
we couldn’t help but notice the beautiful mosaic roses that
decorated the cobble street.

Hmmmmm… I’m inspired. Who knows
what sort of mosaics may show up in our
back yard!


The Milnes of Rose Street
What a dilemma! There are sooooo many restaurants and pubs on Rose Street to
choose from. We did get a couple of suggestions from one of the street performers
so we picked one of them. Milnes of Rose Street pub.
The building housing Milnes arrived with the first phase of Edinburgh's New Town
in about 1790. It started life as the home of an advocate, and later of two sisters
who worked as dressmakers. In 1880 it was purchased by John Norrie, a
chiropodist. In 1910 the company
Lomond and Milne opened a spirit
merchants in the cellars here. By the
mid 1900s this had become a pub known
as Daddy Milnes.


The Princes Lounge at the Mount Royal

After dinner we walked back to the hotel. Still spinning
from the day, we decided to wind down in the hotel bar with
a Stongbow and a Tennent.


What a long day! Had soooo much fun, but it seemed so
much longer than a single day. WOW! Once back in the
room, and after cleaning my shoe, we checked the old
pedometer …29,932 steps! That’s 16 miles!!! OMG!!!

End of Day Two


UK Travelogue - Day Three

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