The Joy of Bitterness by Philip Duff

the Joy of Bitterness
by
Philip Duff
@philipduff @GruppoCampari
@philipsduff @CampariUkraine @Barometer_show
#JoyOfBitter #BitterCampari #CampariLovers #BarometerBarShow

@philipduff @GruppoCampari #JoyOfBitter #BitterCampari
“In the desert ,
I saw a creature, naked, bestial,
Who, squatting upon the ground,
Held his heart in his hands,
And ate of it.

I said, “Is it good, friend?”
“It is bitter—bitter,” he answered;

“But I like it .
Because it is bitter,
And because it is my heart.”

@philipsduff @CampariUkraine @Barometer_show #JoyOfBitter #BitterCampari

- TAS2R family – chromosome 7 & 12

- Bitter Is Bitter

- Bitter Is Bitter
- TAS2R38 receptors Supertaster/ Taster / Non-taster,
linked to alcohol consumption

- Bitter Is Bitter
- Quinine: 8 μM (micromolar)
- Denatonium 1000 μM

- Bitter Is Bitter
- Evolutionary role – but declining

- Bitter Is Bitter
- Evolutionary role – but declining
- Repeated exposure reduces perception

- Bitter flavors make us judgmental! 2011 research,CUNY

- Bitter medicines – for digestion
- Wine infusions
- Wormwood wine – Hippocrates,
450-370 BC, Greece

- Quinine (cinchona) 1638, Peru
1640, Jesuits

- Quinine (cinchona) 1638, Peru
1640, Jesuits
- Unregulated medicines China marziale

- Unregulated medicines Heroin for coughs
Cocaine for toothache

- Taste receptors in stomach, digestive system –
“last defense” against chewed poison – or medicine
- Cooking & farming = detoxifying
- Bitter medicines stabilized in (bitter) C2H5OH

- 1686, Café de Procope, Paris (also ice-cream)
- 1650, The Angel coffeehouse, London
- 1696, The King’s Arms, New York
- 1786: Vermouth, Turin

- 1720: Tea affordable in UK, sugar added
- 1760-1840: Industrial Revolution

- 1773: Boston Tea Party – USA switches to coffee!

- 1780: Invention of IPA (UK, Hodgson)
- 1800s: Chocolate affordable in Europe
- 1806, New York state:
“Cock-tail…. spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters,
vulgarly called a bittered sling”

- 1860: Gaspare Campari, Novara
“Bitter all’Uso di Hollanda”

- 1862, Caffe Campari, Milan, Milano-Torino (Mi-To)
- 1874: Sugar tax abolished in UK, sugar becomes cheap
- 1880: Sugar beets compete with sugarcane, sugar even cheaper

The Count
- Born 1868, noble Italian and Anglophile family
- Rebellious – sent to military school
- Fathered a child aged 17!
- USA 1887- Cowboy in Wyoming
1898 – Moved to New York
1905 - Moves back to Italy

The Count in New York
- USA 1898 – Moved to New York
Fencing instructor on 59th & Madison!
Dry vermouth led to rise of dry gin
Jerry Thomas era

- 1917: Bartender Fosco Scarselli arrives
in Florence at Caffe Casoni
- 1917-1919: Scarselli makes the first
Negroni for Count Camillo Negroni.
(Same period: Mi-To – Americano)
- 1920: “you must not take more than 20
negronis in one day”

The Count’s Negroni in 1919
- Total volume 3-4½cl (1-1½ oz)
- Equal parts
- 1-2 icecubes
- Dash of seltzer (club soda)?
- Garnish (distinguish from Americano?)

The Count’s Negroni in 1919
- Total volume 3-4½cl (1-1½ oz)
- Equal parts
- 1-2 icecubes
- Dash of seltzer (club soda)?
- Garnish (distinguish from Americano?)
The Negroni in 2017
- Total volume usually 9cl (3oz)
- 1¼ gin, ¾ Campari, ¾ sweet vermouth
- Ice cubes or sphere/rock
- No seltzer
- Hotly debated garnish!

- 1927: The Boulevardier (expat American Erskine Gwynne)

- 1950: Campari advertisements
in America
- 1953: Casino Royale (book),
James Bond’s first-ever
alcoholic drink – an Americano
- 1960 Risico, (short story),
Bond drinks a Negroni

- 1950s: Court case in Italy over bottled Negronis
- Fosco Scarselli expert witness
- Campari led the lawsuit – and won

- 1965: Singles bars born, exported around the world

- 1971: Starbucks opens, sells coffee beans
- 1984: First Starbucks coffeehouse opens
- 1997: 1, 415 Starbucks branches
- 2015; 22, 519 branches

- 1993: First modern IPA beers brewed, in US
- 2014: IPA is 11% of all US beer sales (=$2.53bn/year

- 1995: Cocktail renaissance begins NY & London

Cocktail Renaissance – small, strong, cold, intensely flavoured, classic-style

- 2011: Amor y Amargo, New York: no sugar, no juice, all bitters!

- Left: Loretta Bar (Munich) right: Billy Sunday’s, Chicago!

- The return of the drink – a - ceutical?

- 2013: First Negroni Week, Imbibe magazine, USA
- 2017: 7700 bars around world join Negroni Week

by
Philip Duff
thank you!
slideshare.net/philipduff
@philipduff @GruppoCampari
@philipsduff @CampariUkraine @Barometer_show
#JoyOfBitter #BitterCampari #CampariLovers #BarometerBarShow

The Joy of Bitterness by Philip Duff

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The Joy of Bitterness by Philip Duff