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Bdft ii, drafting & pattern making, unit-i, standard measurement
1. STANDARDIZING BODY MEASUREMENTS
IMPORTANCE ANDTECHNIQUES
Measurement surveys collect measurement data to produce sizing systems. They are very
costly. To obtain reliable data, thousands of subjects have to be measured and it is very
difficult to obtain public money for the task. The last comprehensive British survey of
women's body measurements, publicly available, was published in 1957. Many companies still
use this data, but modify it with reference to European surveys, their own sample surveys of
their particular product market, leaked information or other available data: e.g. an increase in
waist measurement and the height increase in younger women.
Measurement by different types of scanning has been developed. Experimental work is
taking place with the Hamamatsu Photonics Bodyline near infrared scanner in the
Department of Computer Science, University College, London. Recent surveys have been
undertaken at Loughborough University using a shadow scanner (LASS). This method creates a
measurable three-dimensional image. A slit of light is passed over a rotating body whilst cameras
record the image. Dimensions around and through the body can be recorded. The French system
TELMAT has updated its 2D body measurement system to 3D imagery in order to provide
more accurate calculations of body measurements.
Conversions of imagery into body measurements appear to have difficulties with complex
angular measurements,identifying body landmarks and a recognition of the changing state of
the body. Clothing technologists take this into account when taking body measurements
manually. A system of manual measurement using an anthropometric stand and special harness
has been developed by a researcher at the Manchester Metropolitan University.
Many measurement surveys are confirmed jointly by public research bodies and by
companies and they view the resulting data as commercial information which is privately
held. The flack of publicly available measurement data has meant that the British Standards
BS 5511 and BS 3666 have remained main guides to British size ranges and labeling
information. However,the handbook is now available for designers and manufacturers from
the Consumer Safety Unit (CSU) of the UK Department of Trade and Industry. The
handbook is a design resource produced by the Institute of Occupational Ergonomics at the
University of Nottingham. The handbook brings together all available anthropometric and
strength data on 266 anthropometric dimensions and 28 strength measurements. Data are
presented from a range of countries from Europe, Asia and the USA.
British Standards
Sizing: The British Standards Institution has established a size designation system that
indicates (in a simple, direct and meaningful manner) the body size of the woman that a
garment is intended to d. The size designation system is based on body and not garment
measurements.
Size Designation: The size designation of each garment should comprise the control
dimensions, in centimeters, of the intended wearer of that garment.
France (2003).
US standard clothing size
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
2. US standard clothing sizes for women were originally developed from statistical data in the 1940s–
1950s. At that time, they were similar in concept to the EN 13402 European clothing size standard,
although individual manufacturers have always deviated from them, sometimes significantly.
However,as a result of various cultural pressures,most notably vanity sizing, North American clothing
sizes have drifted substantially away from this standard over time, and now have very little connection to
it. Instead, they now follow the more loosely defined standards known as US catalog size.
Women's sizes
Women’s sizes are divided into various types, depending on height. These charts give an indication of
size only and are by no means exact as they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer,sometimes by a full
inch up and down.
Overview
There are multiple size types, designed to fit somewhat different body shapes. Variations include the
height of the person's torso (known as back length),whether the bust, waist, and hips are straighter
(characteristic of teenagers) or curvier (like many adult women), and whether the bust is higher or lower
(characteristic of younger and older women, respectively). These categories include:
Misses sizes
The most common size category. For women of about average height (5'4") with an average bust
height and an hourglass figure. Dress sizes may be given as girth at the bust in inches (e.g., 36),
but even-numbered sizes from 2 to 16 are more common. Categorical sizes range from XS (extra-
small) to XL (extra-large).
Junior sizes
For short women with higher busts and fairly straight bodies. Junior sizes are commonly given as
odd-numbered sizes from 1 to 15, which correspond to the next number up in misses' sizes.
Women's sizes or plus sizes
For larger, curvier women of average height, sometimes with lower bust lines. Like misses' sizes,
the sizes may be given as a dress size based on the bust measurement, but they are usually given
as even-numbered sizes from 18 up. Categorical sizes usually range from 1X (similar to extra-
large, but with slightly different proportions compared to the misses' size) up.
Misses petite
For short women with average busts and more hourglass body shapes. Sizes follow the misses'
standard and are marked with a P, as in 10P.
Junior petite
For very short women with average busts and fairly straight bodies. Size may be denoted as "5JP"
or as "5P".
3. Women's petite
For larger, curvier, shorter women, sometimes with lower bust lines. Sizes are marked the same
as women's with a P, as in 20P.
Young junior
For short women with high busts and fairly straight bodies.
Tall sizes
For taller women (usually 5'8" or above), usually with a proportionately average bust height and
an hourglass figure. Sizes are usually written with the corresponding misses' size and a T to
indicate tall, as in "10T".
Half sizes
For short women with lower busts and more hourglass body shapes. Sizes are written with a ½, as
in "10½".
Details
Please compare to your favorite fit charts. These measurements conflict with many other size charts.
These charts are significantly smaller than many current US clothing companies.
Misses’ sizes (PS 42-70)[1]
(1971)
5'2½"–5'6½" tall, average bust, average back
Dimension/size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Bust 31½ 32½ 33½ 35 36½ 38 40 42 44
Waist 22½ 23½ 24½ 26 27½ 29 31 33 35
Hip 33½ 34½ 35½ 37 38½ 40 42 44 46
Back-waist length 14½ 15 15¼ 15½ 15¾ 16 16¼ 16½ 16¾
Misses’ sizes (ASTM D5585 95(R2001)) (1995, revised 2001)
5'3½" - 5'8" tall
Dimension/size 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Bust 32 33 34 35 36 37½ 39 40½ 42½ 44½
8. Chest 26 27 28 30 32 33½ 35 40
Waist 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Hip 27 28 29½ 31 32½ 34 35½ 37
Neckband 11¾ 12 12½ 13 13½ 14 14½ 15
Height 48 50 54 58 61 64 66 68
[citation needed]
Children's sizes
Children's sizes
Dimension/size 1 2 3 4 5 6 6X
Chest 18.5 20 20.5 21.5 22 23
Waist 17 18.5 19 20 20.5 21 21.5
Hip 19 20 21 22 23 24 24½
Height 31 34 37 40 43 46 48
Back-waist length 8¼ 8½ 9 9½ 10 10½ 10¾
Finished dress length 17 18 19 20 22 24 25
[citation needed]
Baby sizes
Infant sizes
Dimension/size NB 0-3 mo 3-6 mo 6-9 mo 9-12 mo 18 mo 24 mo
Weight 5–8 lb 8–12½ lb
12½–16½
lb
16½-20½
20½–24½
lb
24½–27½
lb
27½–30 lb
Height
less than 21½
in
21½–24
in
24–26½ in
26½–28½
in
28½–30½
in
30½–32½
in
32½–34
in.
[citation needed]
9. Toddlers' sizes
Dimension/size 1/2 1 2 3 4
Chest 18.5 19 19.5 20 20.5
Waist 17 17.5 18 19.5 20
Height 28 31 34 37 40
Finished dress length 14 15 16 17 18
[citation needed]
Conversion from catalog sizes
Companies who publish catalogs may provide the measurements for their sizes, which may vary even
among different styles of the same type of garment. The sizes seen in catalogs generally have roughly the
following measurements:
Catalog misses' sizes: 5'5"-5'6" (165–168 cm) tall, average bust, average back
Dimension/siz
e
4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Closest
standard size
10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Est. height
5'4"
(162.5 cm
)
5'4"
(162.5 cm
)
5'4.5"
(164 cm
)
5'5"
(165 cm
)
5'4"
(162.5 cm
)
5'6.5"
(169 cm
)
5'6"
(168 cm
)
5'6"
(168 cm
)
5'6.5"
(169 cm
)
Est. weight lb
(kg)
115 (52) 125 (57) 135 (61) 145 (66) 155 (70) 165 (75) 175 (79)
180
(81.5)
195
(88.5)
Bust 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 41.5 43 44.5
Waist 25 26 27 28 29.5 31 32.5 34 35.5
Hip 35.5 36.5 37.5 38.5 40 41.5 43 44.5 46
[citation needed]
11. With the average American woman's height (20 years and older) at about 63.8" or approximately 5'4"
(162.1 cm) (Department of Health 2012), both standard and catalog size ranges attempt to address a
variety of weights / builds as well as providing for the "shorter-than-average" height woman with "petite"
and "half-sizes". However "taller-than-average" women may find their size-height addressed by
manufacturers less frequently, and may often find themselves facing issues of slightly too short pant legs
and sleeve cuffs, as well as waist lengths.
References-
1. http://www.b-u.ac.in/sde_book/fashion_design.pdf
2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/US_standard_clothing_size
3. Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong