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Elective	
  fashion	
  and	
  culture	
  –	
  Chinese	
  political	
  art	
  
and	
  fashion	
  
Done	
  by:	
  Sarah	
  Lee	
  Shan	
  Yun	
  
	
  
	
  
Figure	
  1	
  –	
  Cao	
  Youcheng.	
  The	
  army	
  loves	
  the	
  people,	
  the	
  people	
  support	
  the	
  army,	
  the	
  
army	
  and	
  the	
  people	
  are	
  as	
  dear	
  to	
  each	
  other	
  as	
  members	
  of	
  one	
  family.	
  June	
  1957.	
  
Shanghai	
  renmin	
  meishu	
  chubanshe.	
  Print.	
  
	
  
	
   The	
  title	
  of	
  the	
  poster	
  itself	
  seems	
  to	
  summarize	
  the	
  sense	
  of	
  enforced	
  unison	
  
that	
  was	
  propagated	
  during	
  the	
  early	
  stages	
  of	
  the	
  Great	
  Leap	
  Forward.	
  Before	
  
China’s	
  Cultural	
  Revolution,	
  the	
  Communist	
  Party	
  of	
  China	
  (CPC)	
  campaigned	
  
aggressively	
  to	
  reorganize	
  the	
  society	
  from	
  a	
  predominantly	
  agrarian	
  one1,	
  to	
  a	
  
communist	
  one2.	
  In	
  this	
  picture,	
  a	
  soldier	
  wears	
  a	
  standard	
  military	
  uniform	
  tunic	
  of	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
1	
  "China".	
  Encyclopædia	
  Britannica.	
  Encyclopædia	
  Britannica	
  Online.	
  
Encyclopædia	
  Britannica	
  Inc.,	
  2014.	
  Web.	
  19	
  Mar.	
  2014	
  
<http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71844/Reconstruction-­‐and-­‐Encyclopædia	
  Britannica	
  Inc.,	
  2014.	
  Web.	
  19	
  Mar.	
  2014	
  
<http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71844/Reconstruction-­‐and-­‐
consolidation-­‐1949-­‐52>.	
  
2	
  Teiwes,	
  Frederick,	
  and	
  Sun	
  Warren.	
  China's	
  road	
  to	
  disaster:	
  Mao,	
  central	
  politicians,	
  and	
  provincial	
  
leaders	
  in	
  the	
  unfolding	
  of	
  the	
  great	
  leap	
  forward.	
  Armonk,	
  N.Y.:	
  Contemporary	
  China	
  papers,	
  1955-­‐
1959.	
  52-­‐55.	
  Print.	
  
the	
  People’s	
  Liberation	
  Army3	
  known	
  as	
  the	
  Zhongshan	
  suit4.	
  The	
  Zhongshan	
  suit,	
  
one	
  of	
  the	
  early	
  versions	
  of	
  the	
  Mao	
  suit,	
  is	
  a	
  significant	
  symbol	
  of	
  proletarian	
  unity.	
  
According	
  to	
  Hongdu,	
  the	
  Chinese	
  manufacturer	
  of	
  Zhongshan	
  suits	
  since	
  1956,	
  the	
  
stiff	
  collar	
  of	
  the	
  suit	
  represents	
  the	
  rigorous	
  representation	
  of	
  the	
  state,	
  the	
  five	
  
buttons	
  in	
  the	
  middle	
  of	
  the	
  suit	
  represent	
  the	
  five	
  powers	
  of	
  administration,	
  
legislation,	
  jurisdiction,	
  examination	
  and	
  supervision,	
  the	
  three	
  buttons	
  on	
  the	
  cuff	
  
of	
  the	
  suit	
  symbolize	
  nationalism,	
  democracy	
  and	
  people’s	
  livelihoods	
  and	
  the	
  four	
  
pockets	
  represent	
  prosperity,	
  justice,	
  integrity	
  and	
  a	
  sense	
  of	
  shame5.	
  In	
  addition,	
  
Gu	
  Mingtian,	
  the	
  general	
  manager	
  of	
  Beijing	
  Hongdu	
  group	
  notes	
  that	
  the	
  singularity	
  
of	
  the	
  suit’s	
  back	
  piece	
  signifies	
  the	
  “peace	
  and	
  unity”	
  of	
  the	
  country6.	
  On	
  the	
  collar	
  
of	
  the	
  suit	
  lies	
  an	
  embellishment	
  containing	
  two	
  stars	
  on	
  a	
  red	
  background	
  –	
  
dominant	
  symbols	
  of	
  Chinese	
  communism7.	
  
Noticeably,	
  there	
  is	
  a	
  stark	
  contrast	
  between	
  the	
  dress	
  of	
  the	
  male	
  soldier	
  
and	
  that	
  of	
  the	
  old	
  woman	
  that	
  stands	
  beside	
  him,	
  providing	
  him	
  with	
  food	
  and	
  
drink.	
  She	
  wears	
  a	
  robe	
  of	
  the	
  ‘old	
  society’,	
  known	
  as	
  the	
  Cheongsam8,	
  
characteristically	
  representative	
  of	
  the	
  rural	
  and	
  pastoral	
  lifestyles	
  of	
  the	
  late	
  
republican	
  socialists9.	
  Also	
  known	
  as	
  the	
  Qipao,	
  the	
  traditional	
  dress	
  encompasses	
  
many	
  centuries	
  worth	
  of	
  historical	
  significance	
  in	
  China,	
  dating	
  back	
  to	
  the	
  early	
  
17th	
  century,	
  later	
  becoming	
  a	
  symbol	
  of	
  the	
  changing	
  political	
  climate	
  during	
  the	
  
1900s10.	
  The	
  garment	
  seen	
  in	
  the	
  image	
  is	
  loose	
  fitting	
  and	
  made	
  of	
  a	
  relatively	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
3	
  China.	
  Department	
  of	
  the	
  Army.	
  Handbook	
  on	
  the	
  Chinese	
  Communist	
  Army.	
  1960.	
  Print.	
  
4	
  Generalissimo	
  Chiang	
  Kai-­‐shek	
  (front	
  centre)	
  and	
  Mao	
  Zedong	
  (front	
  right)	
  both	
  dressed	
  in	
  the	
  
Zhongshan	
  suit	
  (1945).	
  1945.	
  Photograph.	
  Ugly	
  Chinese,	
  China.	
  Web.	
  19	
  Mar	
  2014.	
  
<http://www.uglychinese.org/civil_wars.shtml>.	
  
5	
  Huang,	
  Lan,	
  prod.	
  Zhongshan	
  suit:	
  Timeless	
  Chinese	
  style.	
  China	
  Daily,	
  2011.	
  Web.	
  19	
  Mar	
  2014.	
  
<http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/video/2011-­‐05/03/content_12432753.htm>.	
  
6	
  Ibid.	
  
7	
  Snow,	
  Edgar.	
  Red	
  Star	
  Over	
  China.	
  Canada	
  and	
  USA:	
  Grove	
  Press,	
  1968.	
  Print.	
  
8	
  Lee,	
  Chor	
  Lin,	
  and	
  May	
  Khuen	
  Chung.	
  In	
  the	
  Mood	
  for	
  Cheongsam:	
  A	
  Social	
  History,	
  1920s–Present.	
  
Singapore:	
  Editions	
  Didier	
  Millet	
  and	
  National	
  Museum	
  of	
  Singapore,	
  2012.	
  Print.	
  
9	
  "China".	
  Encyclopædia	
  Britannica.	
  Encyclopædia	
  Britannica	
  Online.	
  
Encyclopædia	
  Britannica	
  Inc.,	
  2014.	
  Web.	
  19	
  Mar.	
  2014	
  
<http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71838/The-­‐tide-­‐begins-­‐to-­‐shift>.	
  
10	
  Chiu,	
  Chu	
  Yang.	
  The	
  meanings	
  of	
  Qipao	
  as	
  Traditional	
  Dress:	
  Chinese	
  and	
  Taiwanese	
  Perspectives.	
  
Diss.	
  Iowa	
  State	
  University,	
  2007.	
  MI:	
  ProQuest	
  information	
  and	
  learning	
  company,	
  2007.	
  Print.	
  
inexpensive	
  fabric	
  when	
  compared	
  to	
  its	
  silk	
  and	
  georgette	
  counterparts11.	
  As	
  seen	
  
in	
  the	
  background	
  of	
  the	
  image,	
  the	
  rural	
  population	
  had	
  to	
  perform	
  farming	
  jobs	
  
and	
  agricultural	
  activity,	
  leading	
  to	
  a	
  more	
  practical	
  silhouette	
  with	
  little	
  or	
  no	
  
embellishments.	
  In	
  a	
  way,	
  the	
  Qipao’s	
  simplicity	
  represented	
  the	
  simplicity	
  of	
  rural	
  
life.	
  
According	
  to	
  Chen’s	
  article,	
  the	
  CCP	
  celebrated	
  such	
  minority	
  groups	
  and	
  
considered	
  them	
  as	
  part	
  of	
  the	
  socialist	
  society,	
  yet	
  at	
  the	
  same	
  time,	
  deemed	
  them	
  
as	
  being	
  “backwards”	
  with	
  regards	
  to	
  liberation	
  by	
  the	
  CCP12.	
  The	
  picture,	
  therefore,	
  
contains	
  an	
  abstruse	
  ulterior	
  meaning.	
  To	
  the	
  individual,	
  one	
  might	
  construe	
  an	
  idea	
  
of	
  servitude	
  between	
  the	
  peasant	
  and	
  the	
  soldier	
  and	
  therefore,	
  a	
  corresponding	
  
power	
  dynamic.	
  When	
  the	
  Cheongsam	
  and	
  the	
  military	
  uniform	
  donned	
  by	
  the	
  male	
  
individual	
  are	
  compared,	
  both	
  garments	
  seem	
  to	
  emphasize	
  functionality,	
  though	
  in	
  
considerably	
  different	
  ways.	
  The	
  embellishments	
  on	
  the	
  Zhongshan	
  suit	
  connote	
  a	
  
sense	
  of	
  a	
  higher	
  collectivist	
  purpose	
  as	
  opposed	
  to	
  a	
  more	
  independent,	
  self-­‐
serving	
  one.	
  On	
  the	
  other	
  hand,	
  from	
  the	
  perspective	
  of	
  the	
  collectivist	
  or	
  
communist,	
  the	
  image	
  could	
  also	
  suggest	
  that	
  the	
  army	
  and	
  people	
  should	
  be	
  united	
  
as	
  one	
  family,	
  relating	
  to	
  the	
  virtue	
  of	
  filial	
  piety	
  that	
  is	
  deeply	
  embedded	
  within	
  
Confucianism	
  and	
  Chinese	
  philosophy13.	
  It	
  communicates	
  the	
  notion	
  that	
  it	
  was	
  also	
  
the	
  duty	
  of	
  the	
  collectivist	
  soldier	
  to	
  include	
  and	
  influence	
  the	
  rural	
  population	
  in	
  
the	
  country’s	
  progression	
  towards	
  “liberation”.	
  Why	
  did	
  the	
  artist	
  choose	
  to	
  portray	
  
an	
  elderly	
  woman	
  in	
  the	
  “old”	
  fashion	
  and	
  a	
  young	
  man	
  in	
  what	
  was	
  considered	
  the	
  
“new”	
  fashion?	
  Evidently,	
  the	
  political	
  propaganda	
  hidden	
  within	
  this	
  image	
  can	
  also	
  
be	
  thought	
  of	
  as	
  an	
  elimination	
  strategy,	
  and	
  that	
  the	
  old	
  ways	
  of	
  thinking	
  will	
  
slowly	
  fade	
  away	
  with	
  time,	
  and	
  that	
  new	
  strength	
  will	
  arise	
  from	
  the	
  passing	
  of	
  the	
  
old.	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
11	
  Lee,	
  Chor	
  Lin,	
  and	
  May	
  Khuen	
  Chung.	
  In	
  the	
  Mood	
  for	
  Cheongsam.	
  Singapore:	
  Didier	
  Millet,	
  Csi,	
  
2012.	
  Print.	
  
12	
  Chen,	
  Tina	
  Mai.	
  Dressing	
  for	
  the	
  Party:	
  Clothing,	
  Citizenship	
  and	
  Gender-­‐formation	
  in	
  Mao's	
  China.	
  
United	
  Kingdom:	
  Berg,	
  2001.	
  149.	
  Print.	
  
13	
  Huang,	
  Kuang-­‐Kuo.	
  Asian	
  Journal	
  of	
  Social	
  Psychology:	
  Filial	
  piety	
  and	
  loyalty:	
  Two	
  types	
  of	
  social	
  
identification	
  in	
  Confucianism.	
  Taiwan:	
  Department	
  of	
  Psychology,	
  National	
  Taiwan	
  University,	
  1999.	
  
163-­‐183.	
  Web.	
  <http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/store/10.1111/1467-­‐839X.00031/asset/1467-­‐
839X.00031.pdf?v=1&t=htitnkn2&s=99747929fbb063ec2240a5c4889294cdcb21203a>	
  	
  
 
	
  
Figure	
  2	
  –	
  Uniforms	
  worn	
  by	
  all	
  students	
  at	
  ACS	
  (International),	
  Singapore	
  
	
  
	
   In	
  my	
  country,	
  Singapore,	
  all	
  primary	
  and	
  secondary	
  level	
  students	
  are	
  
required	
  to	
  wear	
  uniforms	
  in	
  school,	
  whether	
  in	
  private	
  or	
  public	
  institutions.	
  
Although	
  the	
  uniforms	
  vary	
  between	
  each	
  school,	
  they	
  are	
  a	
  way	
  to	
  promote	
  
equality	
  amongst	
  students	
  when	
  they	
  are	
  in	
  an	
  academic	
  environment.	
  
Racial	
  and	
  ethnic	
  harmony	
  is	
  a	
  major	
  part	
  of	
  the	
  value	
  system	
  in	
  Singapore	
  as	
  
the	
  city	
  has	
  always	
  been	
  and	
  continues	
  to	
  be	
  particularly	
  multicultural,	
  since	
  its	
  
founding	
  in	
  181914.	
  In	
  1965,	
  Singapore’s	
  population	
  was	
  made	
  up	
  of	
  about	
  75%	
  
Chinese,	
  13%	
  Malays,	
  7%	
  Indians	
  and	
  5%	
  others15.	
  This	
  ethnic	
  composition	
  of	
  its	
  
citizens	
  remains	
  similar	
  today16	
  although	
  there	
  is	
  a	
  considerably	
  bigger	
  presence	
  of	
  
foreign	
  workers	
  (over	
  1	
  million	
  in	
  December	
  201317).	
  Although	
  the	
  pre-­‐dominant	
  
race	
  in	
  Singapore	
  is	
  Chinese,	
  the	
  national	
  identity	
  of	
  Singaporeans	
  has	
  always	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
14	
  Barbara,	
  Leitch	
  Lepoer.	
  Singapore:	
  A	
  Country	
  Study.	
  Washington:	
  GPO	
  for	
  the	
  Library	
  of	
  Congress,	
  
1989.	
  Print.	
  
15	
  Chan,	
  Sek	
  Keong.	
  Multiculturalism	
  in	
  Singapore.	
  Diss.	
  Singapore	
  Academy	
  of	
  Law,	
  2013.	
  Singapore:	
  
Singapore	
  Academy	
  of	
  Law	
  Journal,	
  2013.	
  Print.	
  <http://www.sal.org.sg/digitallibrary/Lists/SAL	
  
Journal/Attachments/625/(2013)	
  25	
  SAcLJ	
  84-­‐109	
  (multiculturalism).pdf>.	
  
16	
  Wong,	
  Kee	
  Kim.	
  "Population	
  Trends	
  2013."	
  Department	
  of	
  Statistics,	
  Ministry	
  of	
  Trade	
  &	
  Industry,	
  
Republic	
  of	
  Singapore	
  (2013):	
  3.	
  Web.	
  2	
  Apr	
  2014.	
  
17	
  "Foreign Workforce Numbers." Ministry of Manpower. MOM, 14 03 2014. Web. 2 Apr 2014.
<http://www.mom.gov.sg/statistics-publications/others/statistics/Pages/ForeignWorkforceNumbers.aspx>	
  
remained	
  diverse	
  through	
  rigorous	
  social	
  control	
  by	
  the	
  government18.	
  Part	
  of	
  this	
  
effort	
  to	
  promote	
  equal	
  opportunity	
  and	
  racial	
  amicability	
  in	
  Singaporeans	
  was	
  the	
  
enforcement	
  of	
  official	
  uniform	
  laws	
  in	
  schools	
  by	
  the	
  Ministry	
  of	
  Education	
  in	
  
195719.	
  In	
  addition,	
  Singaporean	
  primary	
  and	
  secondary	
  students	
  celebrate	
  racial	
  
harmony	
  day	
  each	
  year	
  on	
  the	
  21st	
  of	
  July	
  to	
  commemorate	
  the	
  unfortunate	
  deaths	
  
of	
  those	
  involved	
  in	
  the	
  race	
  riots	
  of	
  196420.	
  
	
  
	
  
Figure	
  3	
  –	
  1964	
  Racial	
  riots	
  in	
  Singapore21	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
18	
  Chua, Beng Huat. Multiulturalism in Singapore. Diss. National University of Singapore, 2003.
Singapore: Institute of Race relations, 2003. Print.	
  
19	
  Singapore	
  Education	
  Act.	
  Revised	
  edition.	
  Singapore:	
  Attorney-­‐General's	
  Chambers,	
  1985.	
  Part	
  61.	
  
Web.	
  2	
  Apr.	
  2014.	
  <http://statutes.agc.gov.sg/aol/search/display/view.w3p;ident=1f5ec256-­‐c27f-­‐
4386-­‐86ba-­‐834d19ecca94;page=0;query=DocId%3A%22acab79b8-­‐6671-­‐4ed8-­‐a984-­‐
4eb09060e314%22%20Status%3Ainforce%20Depth%3A0;rec=0#pr61-­‐he-­‐.>	
  
20	
  Clutterbuck,	
  R.	
  L.	
  Conflict	
  and	
  violence	
  in	
  Singapore	
  and	
  Malaysia:	
  1945-­‐1983.	
  Singapore:	
  G.	
  Brash,	
  
1984.	
  Print.	
  
21	
  1964 racial riots in Singapore. 1964. Photograph. Internal Security Department, Singapore. Web. 2 Apr
2014. <http://www.mha.gov.sg/isd/ct.htm>.	
  
Like	
  the	
  Mao	
  suit	
  in	
  communist	
  China,	
  the	
  uniform	
  seems	
  to	
  promote	
  a	
  sense	
  
of	
  equality	
  and	
  homogeneity	
  amongst	
  its	
  citizens,	
  or	
  in	
  this	
  context,	
  its	
  students.	
  
However,	
  it	
  is	
  important	
  to	
  note	
  that	
  unlike	
  communism,	
  the	
  uniform	
  celebrates	
  the	
  
diversity	
  of	
  Singapore	
  as	
  a	
  nation	
  and	
  its	
  ability	
  to	
  exist	
  harmoniously	
  and	
  
peacefully	
  as	
  a	
  community	
  despite	
  encompassing	
  many	
  heterogenic	
  identities.	
  
Education,	
  to	
  most	
  communities,	
  represents	
  the	
  growth	
  potential	
  of	
  individuals	
  and	
  
thus	
  the	
  development	
  of	
  a	
  society,	
  especially	
  in	
  a	
  meritocratic	
  political	
  climate22	
  like	
  
Singapore.	
  Could	
  the	
  school	
  uniform,	
  thus,	
  represent	
  equal	
  opportunity	
  in	
  the	
  
context	
  of	
  national	
  education?	
  Personally,	
  I	
  felt	
  certain	
  benefits	
  of	
  wearing	
  a	
  uniform	
  
to	
  school,	
  including	
  not	
  having	
  to	
  worry	
  much	
  about	
  perceived	
  social	
  hierarchy	
  or	
  
racial	
  status	
  in	
  terms	
  of	
  appearances.	
  However,	
  it	
  also	
  imposes	
  a	
  muting	
  of	
  ones	
  
personal	
  identity,	
  not	
  just	
  racially	
  or	
  culturally,	
  but	
  also	
  in	
  terms	
  of	
  individual	
  
expression.	
  Could	
  the	
  enforcement	
  of	
  a	
  uniform	
  also	
  have	
  had	
  the	
  effect	
  of	
  stifling	
  
individual	
  freedom	
  of	
  choice	
  in	
  a	
  society?	
  By	
  complying	
  with	
  the	
  rules	
  to	
  wear	
  a	
  
uniform	
  to	
  school,	
  students	
  are	
  in	
  actuality	
  creating	
  a	
  political	
  identity	
  for	
  
themselves,	
  whereby	
  they	
  are	
  willing	
  to	
  sacrifice	
  individual	
  expression	
  for	
  the	
  
collective	
  efforts	
  of	
  the	
  nation	
  in	
  the	
  promotion	
  of	
  racial	
  harmony.	
  By	
  choosing	
  to	
  
wear	
  a	
  uniform	
  to	
  school,	
  students	
  of	
  a	
  certain	
  race	
  are	
  indirectly	
  giving	
  students	
  of	
  
another	
  race	
  the	
  consideration	
  and	
  respect	
  to	
  share	
  a	
  public	
  space	
  and	
  a	
  collective	
  
vision.	
  This	
  notion	
  relates	
  back	
  to	
  our	
  understanding	
  of	
  the	
  way	
  collectivism	
  is	
  
enforced	
  through	
  fashion	
  and	
  dress,	
  although	
  not	
  as	
  dire	
  or	
  consequential	
  as	
  in	
  the	
  
context	
  of	
  communist	
  China.	
  
In	
  the	
  modern	
  day,	
  as	
  traditional	
  clothing	
  is	
  no	
  longer	
  the	
  predominant	
  dress	
  
on	
  the	
  streets	
  of	
  Singapore,	
  and	
  everyday	
  wear	
  is	
  a	
  result	
  of	
  the	
  globalization	
  of	
  
multi-­‐national	
  fashion	
  companies	
  and	
  the	
  proliferation	
  of	
  westernized	
  ideals,	
  could	
  
the	
  original	
  purpose	
  of	
  the	
  school	
  uniform,	
  perhaps,	
  be	
  made	
  redundant?	
  In	
  some	
  
sense,	
  much	
  like	
  the	
  hijab	
  garment	
  in	
  Marrakech23,	
  the	
  school	
  uniform	
  no	
  longer	
  
	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
22	
  Tay,	
  A.	
  (2013,	
  09	
  22).	
  [Web	
  log	
  message].	
  Retrieved	
  from	
  
<http://www.yourcommonwealth.org/2013/09/22/equality-­‐in-­‐singapore-­‐society-­‐is-­‐far-­‐from-­‐a-­‐
reality/>	
  
23	
  Taymour	
  Grahne	
  Gallery.	
  (2014).	
  Hassan	
  hajjaj:	
  'kesh	
  angels	
  exhibition	
  press	
  release.	
  Retrieved	
  from	
  
<http://images.taymourgrahne.com/www_taymourgrahne_com/HH_Press_Release_2014.pdf>	
  
possesses	
  the	
  same	
  advantage	
  and	
  power	
  to	
  effect	
  homogeneity,	
  particularly	
  when	
  
young	
  people	
  are	
  no	
  longer	
  dressing	
  according	
  to	
  their	
  racial	
  groups,	
  but	
  rather	
  to	
  
suit	
  their	
  personal	
  tastes	
  or	
  ideals.	
  It	
  is	
  not	
  uncommon	
  to	
  hear	
  complaints	
  about	
  the	
  
rigidity	
  and	
  strictness	
  of	
  the	
  rules	
  regarding	
  the	
  school	
  uniform	
  from	
  Singaporean	
  
students	
  today.	
  However,	
  the	
  significance	
  of	
  the	
  school	
  uniform	
  in	
  establishing	
  
racial	
  equality	
  amongst	
  youths	
  makes	
  the	
  possibility	
  of	
  the	
  abolishment	
  of	
  those	
  
laws	
  questionable	
  and	
  highly	
  bureaucratic.	
  Whether	
  noticed	
  or	
  unnoticed,	
  students	
  
become	
  political	
  subjects	
  in	
  Singapore	
  and	
  will	
  remain	
  that	
  way	
  so	
  long	
  as	
  the	
  rules	
  
governing	
  school	
  uniforms	
  continue	
  to	
  be	
  enforced.	
  

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Elective fashion and culture – chinese political art and fashion

  • 1. Elective  fashion  and  culture  –  Chinese  political  art   and  fashion   Done  by:  Sarah  Lee  Shan  Yun       Figure  1  –  Cao  Youcheng.  The  army  loves  the  people,  the  people  support  the  army,  the   army  and  the  people  are  as  dear  to  each  other  as  members  of  one  family.  June  1957.   Shanghai  renmin  meishu  chubanshe.  Print.       The  title  of  the  poster  itself  seems  to  summarize  the  sense  of  enforced  unison   that  was  propagated  during  the  early  stages  of  the  Great  Leap  Forward.  Before   China’s  Cultural  Revolution,  the  Communist  Party  of  China  (CPC)  campaigned   aggressively  to  reorganize  the  society  from  a  predominantly  agrarian  one1,  to  a   communist  one2.  In  this  picture,  a  soldier  wears  a  standard  military  uniform  tunic  of                                                                                                                   1  "China".  Encyclopædia  Britannica.  Encyclopædia  Britannica  Online.   Encyclopædia  Britannica  Inc.,  2014.  Web.  19  Mar.  2014   <http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71844/Reconstruction-­‐and-­‐Encyclopædia  Britannica  Inc.,  2014.  Web.  19  Mar.  2014   <http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71844/Reconstruction-­‐and-­‐ consolidation-­‐1949-­‐52>.   2  Teiwes,  Frederick,  and  Sun  Warren.  China's  road  to  disaster:  Mao,  central  politicians,  and  provincial   leaders  in  the  unfolding  of  the  great  leap  forward.  Armonk,  N.Y.:  Contemporary  China  papers,  1955-­‐ 1959.  52-­‐55.  Print.  
  • 2. the  People’s  Liberation  Army3  known  as  the  Zhongshan  suit4.  The  Zhongshan  suit,   one  of  the  early  versions  of  the  Mao  suit,  is  a  significant  symbol  of  proletarian  unity.   According  to  Hongdu,  the  Chinese  manufacturer  of  Zhongshan  suits  since  1956,  the   stiff  collar  of  the  suit  represents  the  rigorous  representation  of  the  state,  the  five   buttons  in  the  middle  of  the  suit  represent  the  five  powers  of  administration,   legislation,  jurisdiction,  examination  and  supervision,  the  three  buttons  on  the  cuff   of  the  suit  symbolize  nationalism,  democracy  and  people’s  livelihoods  and  the  four   pockets  represent  prosperity,  justice,  integrity  and  a  sense  of  shame5.  In  addition,   Gu  Mingtian,  the  general  manager  of  Beijing  Hongdu  group  notes  that  the  singularity   of  the  suit’s  back  piece  signifies  the  “peace  and  unity”  of  the  country6.  On  the  collar   of  the  suit  lies  an  embellishment  containing  two  stars  on  a  red  background  –   dominant  symbols  of  Chinese  communism7.   Noticeably,  there  is  a  stark  contrast  between  the  dress  of  the  male  soldier   and  that  of  the  old  woman  that  stands  beside  him,  providing  him  with  food  and   drink.  She  wears  a  robe  of  the  ‘old  society’,  known  as  the  Cheongsam8,   characteristically  representative  of  the  rural  and  pastoral  lifestyles  of  the  late   republican  socialists9.  Also  known  as  the  Qipao,  the  traditional  dress  encompasses   many  centuries  worth  of  historical  significance  in  China,  dating  back  to  the  early   17th  century,  later  becoming  a  symbol  of  the  changing  political  climate  during  the   1900s10.  The  garment  seen  in  the  image  is  loose  fitting  and  made  of  a  relatively                                                                                                                   3  China.  Department  of  the  Army.  Handbook  on  the  Chinese  Communist  Army.  1960.  Print.   4  Generalissimo  Chiang  Kai-­‐shek  (front  centre)  and  Mao  Zedong  (front  right)  both  dressed  in  the   Zhongshan  suit  (1945).  1945.  Photograph.  Ugly  Chinese,  China.  Web.  19  Mar  2014.   <http://www.uglychinese.org/civil_wars.shtml>.   5  Huang,  Lan,  prod.  Zhongshan  suit:  Timeless  Chinese  style.  China  Daily,  2011.  Web.  19  Mar  2014.   <http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/video/2011-­‐05/03/content_12432753.htm>.   6  Ibid.   7  Snow,  Edgar.  Red  Star  Over  China.  Canada  and  USA:  Grove  Press,  1968.  Print.   8  Lee,  Chor  Lin,  and  May  Khuen  Chung.  In  the  Mood  for  Cheongsam:  A  Social  History,  1920s–Present.   Singapore:  Editions  Didier  Millet  and  National  Museum  of  Singapore,  2012.  Print.   9  "China".  Encyclopædia  Britannica.  Encyclopædia  Britannica  Online.   Encyclopædia  Britannica  Inc.,  2014.  Web.  19  Mar.  2014   <http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/111803/China/71838/The-­‐tide-­‐begins-­‐to-­‐shift>.   10  Chiu,  Chu  Yang.  The  meanings  of  Qipao  as  Traditional  Dress:  Chinese  and  Taiwanese  Perspectives.   Diss.  Iowa  State  University,  2007.  MI:  ProQuest  information  and  learning  company,  2007.  Print.  
  • 3. inexpensive  fabric  when  compared  to  its  silk  and  georgette  counterparts11.  As  seen   in  the  background  of  the  image,  the  rural  population  had  to  perform  farming  jobs   and  agricultural  activity,  leading  to  a  more  practical  silhouette  with  little  or  no   embellishments.  In  a  way,  the  Qipao’s  simplicity  represented  the  simplicity  of  rural   life.   According  to  Chen’s  article,  the  CCP  celebrated  such  minority  groups  and   considered  them  as  part  of  the  socialist  society,  yet  at  the  same  time,  deemed  them   as  being  “backwards”  with  regards  to  liberation  by  the  CCP12.  The  picture,  therefore,   contains  an  abstruse  ulterior  meaning.  To  the  individual,  one  might  construe  an  idea   of  servitude  between  the  peasant  and  the  soldier  and  therefore,  a  corresponding   power  dynamic.  When  the  Cheongsam  and  the  military  uniform  donned  by  the  male   individual  are  compared,  both  garments  seem  to  emphasize  functionality,  though  in   considerably  different  ways.  The  embellishments  on  the  Zhongshan  suit  connote  a   sense  of  a  higher  collectivist  purpose  as  opposed  to  a  more  independent,  self-­‐ serving  one.  On  the  other  hand,  from  the  perspective  of  the  collectivist  or   communist,  the  image  could  also  suggest  that  the  army  and  people  should  be  united   as  one  family,  relating  to  the  virtue  of  filial  piety  that  is  deeply  embedded  within   Confucianism  and  Chinese  philosophy13.  It  communicates  the  notion  that  it  was  also   the  duty  of  the  collectivist  soldier  to  include  and  influence  the  rural  population  in   the  country’s  progression  towards  “liberation”.  Why  did  the  artist  choose  to  portray   an  elderly  woman  in  the  “old”  fashion  and  a  young  man  in  what  was  considered  the   “new”  fashion?  Evidently,  the  political  propaganda  hidden  within  this  image  can  also   be  thought  of  as  an  elimination  strategy,  and  that  the  old  ways  of  thinking  will   slowly  fade  away  with  time,  and  that  new  strength  will  arise  from  the  passing  of  the   old.                                                                                                                   11  Lee,  Chor  Lin,  and  May  Khuen  Chung.  In  the  Mood  for  Cheongsam.  Singapore:  Didier  Millet,  Csi,   2012.  Print.   12  Chen,  Tina  Mai.  Dressing  for  the  Party:  Clothing,  Citizenship  and  Gender-­‐formation  in  Mao's  China.   United  Kingdom:  Berg,  2001.  149.  Print.   13  Huang,  Kuang-­‐Kuo.  Asian  Journal  of  Social  Psychology:  Filial  piety  and  loyalty:  Two  types  of  social   identification  in  Confucianism.  Taiwan:  Department  of  Psychology,  National  Taiwan  University,  1999.   163-­‐183.  Web.  <http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/store/10.1111/1467-­‐839X.00031/asset/1467-­‐ 839X.00031.pdf?v=1&t=htitnkn2&s=99747929fbb063ec2240a5c4889294cdcb21203a>    
  • 4.     Figure  2  –  Uniforms  worn  by  all  students  at  ACS  (International),  Singapore       In  my  country,  Singapore,  all  primary  and  secondary  level  students  are   required  to  wear  uniforms  in  school,  whether  in  private  or  public  institutions.   Although  the  uniforms  vary  between  each  school,  they  are  a  way  to  promote   equality  amongst  students  when  they  are  in  an  academic  environment.   Racial  and  ethnic  harmony  is  a  major  part  of  the  value  system  in  Singapore  as   the  city  has  always  been  and  continues  to  be  particularly  multicultural,  since  its   founding  in  181914.  In  1965,  Singapore’s  population  was  made  up  of  about  75%   Chinese,  13%  Malays,  7%  Indians  and  5%  others15.  This  ethnic  composition  of  its   citizens  remains  similar  today16  although  there  is  a  considerably  bigger  presence  of   foreign  workers  (over  1  million  in  December  201317).  Although  the  pre-­‐dominant   race  in  Singapore  is  Chinese,  the  national  identity  of  Singaporeans  has  always                                                                                                                   14  Barbara,  Leitch  Lepoer.  Singapore:  A  Country  Study.  Washington:  GPO  for  the  Library  of  Congress,   1989.  Print.   15  Chan,  Sek  Keong.  Multiculturalism  in  Singapore.  Diss.  Singapore  Academy  of  Law,  2013.  Singapore:   Singapore  Academy  of  Law  Journal,  2013.  Print.  <http://www.sal.org.sg/digitallibrary/Lists/SAL   Journal/Attachments/625/(2013)  25  SAcLJ  84-­‐109  (multiculturalism).pdf>.   16  Wong,  Kee  Kim.  "Population  Trends  2013."  Department  of  Statistics,  Ministry  of  Trade  &  Industry,   Republic  of  Singapore  (2013):  3.  Web.  2  Apr  2014.   17  "Foreign Workforce Numbers." Ministry of Manpower. MOM, 14 03 2014. Web. 2 Apr 2014. <http://www.mom.gov.sg/statistics-publications/others/statistics/Pages/ForeignWorkforceNumbers.aspx>  
  • 5. remained  diverse  through  rigorous  social  control  by  the  government18.  Part  of  this   effort  to  promote  equal  opportunity  and  racial  amicability  in  Singaporeans  was  the   enforcement  of  official  uniform  laws  in  schools  by  the  Ministry  of  Education  in   195719.  In  addition,  Singaporean  primary  and  secondary  students  celebrate  racial   harmony  day  each  year  on  the  21st  of  July  to  commemorate  the  unfortunate  deaths   of  those  involved  in  the  race  riots  of  196420.       Figure  3  –  1964  Racial  riots  in  Singapore21                                                                                                                   18  Chua, Beng Huat. Multiulturalism in Singapore. Diss. National University of Singapore, 2003. Singapore: Institute of Race relations, 2003. Print.   19  Singapore  Education  Act.  Revised  edition.  Singapore:  Attorney-­‐General's  Chambers,  1985.  Part  61.   Web.  2  Apr.  2014.  <http://statutes.agc.gov.sg/aol/search/display/view.w3p;ident=1f5ec256-­‐c27f-­‐ 4386-­‐86ba-­‐834d19ecca94;page=0;query=DocId%3A%22acab79b8-­‐6671-­‐4ed8-­‐a984-­‐ 4eb09060e314%22%20Status%3Ainforce%20Depth%3A0;rec=0#pr61-­‐he-­‐.>   20  Clutterbuck,  R.  L.  Conflict  and  violence  in  Singapore  and  Malaysia:  1945-­‐1983.  Singapore:  G.  Brash,   1984.  Print.   21  1964 racial riots in Singapore. 1964. Photograph. Internal Security Department, Singapore. Web. 2 Apr 2014. <http://www.mha.gov.sg/isd/ct.htm>.  
  • 6. Like  the  Mao  suit  in  communist  China,  the  uniform  seems  to  promote  a  sense   of  equality  and  homogeneity  amongst  its  citizens,  or  in  this  context,  its  students.   However,  it  is  important  to  note  that  unlike  communism,  the  uniform  celebrates  the   diversity  of  Singapore  as  a  nation  and  its  ability  to  exist  harmoniously  and   peacefully  as  a  community  despite  encompassing  many  heterogenic  identities.   Education,  to  most  communities,  represents  the  growth  potential  of  individuals  and   thus  the  development  of  a  society,  especially  in  a  meritocratic  political  climate22  like   Singapore.  Could  the  school  uniform,  thus,  represent  equal  opportunity  in  the   context  of  national  education?  Personally,  I  felt  certain  benefits  of  wearing  a  uniform   to  school,  including  not  having  to  worry  much  about  perceived  social  hierarchy  or   racial  status  in  terms  of  appearances.  However,  it  also  imposes  a  muting  of  ones   personal  identity,  not  just  racially  or  culturally,  but  also  in  terms  of  individual   expression.  Could  the  enforcement  of  a  uniform  also  have  had  the  effect  of  stifling   individual  freedom  of  choice  in  a  society?  By  complying  with  the  rules  to  wear  a   uniform  to  school,  students  are  in  actuality  creating  a  political  identity  for   themselves,  whereby  they  are  willing  to  sacrifice  individual  expression  for  the   collective  efforts  of  the  nation  in  the  promotion  of  racial  harmony.  By  choosing  to   wear  a  uniform  to  school,  students  of  a  certain  race  are  indirectly  giving  students  of   another  race  the  consideration  and  respect  to  share  a  public  space  and  a  collective   vision.  This  notion  relates  back  to  our  understanding  of  the  way  collectivism  is   enforced  through  fashion  and  dress,  although  not  as  dire  or  consequential  as  in  the   context  of  communist  China.   In  the  modern  day,  as  traditional  clothing  is  no  longer  the  predominant  dress   on  the  streets  of  Singapore,  and  everyday  wear  is  a  result  of  the  globalization  of   multi-­‐national  fashion  companies  and  the  proliferation  of  westernized  ideals,  could   the  original  purpose  of  the  school  uniform,  perhaps,  be  made  redundant?  In  some   sense,  much  like  the  hijab  garment  in  Marrakech23,  the  school  uniform  no  longer                                                                                                                   22  Tay,  A.  (2013,  09  22).  [Web  log  message].  Retrieved  from   <http://www.yourcommonwealth.org/2013/09/22/equality-­‐in-­‐singapore-­‐society-­‐is-­‐far-­‐from-­‐a-­‐ reality/>   23  Taymour  Grahne  Gallery.  (2014).  Hassan  hajjaj:  'kesh  angels  exhibition  press  release.  Retrieved  from   <http://images.taymourgrahne.com/www_taymourgrahne_com/HH_Press_Release_2014.pdf>  
  • 7. possesses  the  same  advantage  and  power  to  effect  homogeneity,  particularly  when   young  people  are  no  longer  dressing  according  to  their  racial  groups,  but  rather  to   suit  their  personal  tastes  or  ideals.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  hear  complaints  about  the   rigidity  and  strictness  of  the  rules  regarding  the  school  uniform  from  Singaporean   students  today.  However,  the  significance  of  the  school  uniform  in  establishing   racial  equality  amongst  youths  makes  the  possibility  of  the  abolishment  of  those   laws  questionable  and  highly  bureaucratic.  Whether  noticed  or  unnoticed,  students   become  political  subjects  in  Singapore  and  will  remain  that  way  so  long  as  the  rules   governing  school  uniforms  continue  to  be  enforced.