Industrial attachment of mitali fasions ltd

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF INDUSTRIAL TRAINING IN MITALI FASIONS LTD. (MITALI GROUP)

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TABLE OF CONTENT
CHAPTER NO.
CHAPTER NAME
PAGE NUMBER
01
Introduction
07
02
Over View of the Company
08-20
03
Raw Materials
21-56
04
Laboratory
57-69
05
Batch Section
70-74
06
Dyeing Section
75-98
07
Printing Section
99-105
08
Finishing Section
106-117
09
Garments Section
118-142
10
Quality Control Services
143-149
11
Maintenance
150-152
12
Utilities Services
153-156
12
Social & Environmental Information
157-160
13
Discussion &Conclusion
161

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INTRODUCTION
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility.
Textile education can‘t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. We got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at Mitali Fashions Ltd. In the field of ever changing moderns fashion work Mitali Fashions Ltd. considers it prime mission to every new test. Which & demand of customers from around the World & all strains human culture Mitali Fashions Ltd acts on the basis premise that fashion is an exploration in to the images people seek to convey about themselves & the way they live. It has well planned & equipped Knit fabric dyeing-finishing and Garment units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing.
We have prepared this report as required in competition of my attachment course in regarding guideline given by the university authority which will lead to a strong guideline and milestone for our future carrier.

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AT A GLANCE
Name of Company : Mitali Fashions Ltd.
Address : Hatimara Road, Barenda, Kashimpur,
Gazipur - 1346, Bangladesh.
Tel: 880-2- 9297771-2, 9297351, 9298570-1
Fax: 880-2-9297352
Web: www.mitalifashions.net
Head Office : Road # 22, House # 19 , Block – K, Banani,
Dhaka - 1213, Bangladesh.
Tel: 880-2- 8820200, 9892999, 9861197

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FACTORY INFORMATION
Factory Type : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite Industry.
Year of Establishment : 2000
Investor : Mr. Syed Abu Yousuf Abdullah
Location : Kashimpur, Gazipur.
Annual Turnover : Tk. 10, 00, 00,000 to 12, 00, 00,000
Certification &Awards : ISO 9001:2000 & WRAP
Production Capacity : Knitting 16,000 SFT 12 Tons/Day
Embroidery 2,000 SFT 5,000 Unit/Day
Dyeing 12,500 SFT 8 Tons/Day
Sewing 58,000 SFT 40,000 Pcs/Day
Cutting 15,000 SFT 45,000 Pcs/Day
Finishing 24,000 SFT 40,000 Pcs/Day
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Tank top, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Shorts, Pajama, Set, Ladies ,Kids Knitwear& all kinds of knit garments & Knit fabrics.

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MITALI FASHIONS LTD.
A BSCI, WRAP, OEKO-TEX, ISO & SEDEX STANDARD COMPANY

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MITALI has been established since 2000 and has rapidly become a major supplier of
ready-made garments from Bangladesh.
When it comes to ready-wear manufacturing, Mitali Fashion is a cut above the rest. Mitali
Fashion is a 'tells a tale of' a company that has everything right about it -its people, its
technology, its systems, its customers and its location.
At Mitali Fashions Ltd we endeavor to provide our customers with an exceptional service of
the highest standard and quality to guarantee client satisfaction.
Today, Mitali‘s success is a result of state of the art equipment and experienced personnel
from the management team to the factory force. With a team of such quality Mitali is able to
run a highly efficient and competitive production unit, enabling us to meet the industries
continuous increasing standards and demands.
As Mitali‘s reputation grows, so does interest from other countries.
Our high quality product ranges include Knitwear, Woven and Sweaters for Ladies,
Mens and Children.

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Mr. Syed Abu Yousuf Abdullah,
Managing Director of the Group.
Mitali Fashions Ltd. was established in 2000s under the leadership of Mr. Syed Abu Yousuf Abdullah, Managing Director of the Group. From humble beginnings, Mitali Fashions Ltd. became a Group of companies. With their leadership, Mitali has expanded rapidly over the years & become one of the largest and 100% export oriented composite knit garments industry in Bangladesh. Mr. Syed Ehsan Abdullah, Mrs. Mafruza Chowdhury, Mrs. Maisha Abdullah Ahammad and Mrs. Tania Ahmed are the Directors of the Group.
Mitali Fashions Ltd is one of the few elite private sector business groups, which contributed wealth as well as welfare to the struggling economy of Bangladesh.
As time is essential to space so is taste to its products. The secret is love-which, paired with meticulous efficiency and a keen sensitivity to style, makes Mitali Fashions Ltd an emerging brand destined to light up horizon of fashion.
Mitali Fashions Ltd has team of skilled and dedicated technocrats backed by adequate number of modern USA and European machinery and equipments to match international standard of all kinds of knitwear products.
The mission and vision of Mitali Fashions Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by

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providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. has decided to adopt the following-
1. To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization.
2. By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
3. To collect customer‘s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action.
4. To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum‘s implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the organization.
West
East
North
South

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Mitali Fashions
1. Security office
2. Gas Pump
3. Knitting sectionUnit – I & Air Compressor Room (1st Floor) + Garment section (2rd -4th Floor)
4. Color Store (1st Floor) + Medical Care (2nd Floor) + Quarter (3rd Floor)
5. Chemical Store
6. Fabric dyeing (Unit – I ) &Tube finishing section + Boiler Room
7. Dyeing Lab + Open Finishing Section
8. Fabric Dyeing Unit – II +Boiler Room
Main Gate of the Mitali Fashions
1
2
3
6
7
8
12
4
5
9
10
6
11
13
13
14
Gate

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9. Generator
10. Yarn & Hanger Store
11. WTP Plant
12. Dyes & Chemical Store (Under Ground) + Kniting& Fabric Inspection Section& Air Compressor Room (1st Floor) + Garment Section (2nd – 6th Floor) + Garment Printing Section (&th Floor) + Office Room, Mercendiser Section, HR Department (8th Floor)
13. ETP Plant
14. Under Constructed Building

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Mitali Fashions Ltd. was established in 2000s under the leadership of Mr. Syed Abu Yousuf Abdullah, Managing Director of the Group. From humble beginnings, Mitali Fashions Ltd. became a Group of companies. With their leadership, Mitali has expanded rapidly over the years & become one of the largest and 100% export oriented composite knit garments industry in Bangladesh. Mr. Syed Ehsan Abdullah, Mrs. Mafruza Chowdhury, Mrs. Maisha Abdullah Ahammad and Mrs. Tania Ahmed are the Directors of the Group.
Dyeing & Finishing Section
GM
AGM
Manager
Batch Incharge
Finishing Incharge
Lab Incharge
Incharge
Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Sewing man
Turning m/c Operator
Helper
Sewing man
Squeeze Operator
Dryer Operator
Helper
Lab Technician
Q.C. Technician

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Knitting section
AGM
PM
Store In charge
Knitting Master
Supervisor
Fitter man
Operator
Fitter man
Operator
Garments Department
Managing director
Director
General manager
Finance
HRD
Factory Manager
Merchandiser Manager
Senior Merchandiser
Junior Merchandiser
Sewing
Cutting
Finishing
Quality

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Department Manpower Knitting 300 Dyeing & Finishing, Lab & QC Yarn Fabric 309 405 Garments 3325 Power, Boiler, Utility & Maintenance 173 Inventory 15

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Mitali Group can produce wide range of products and they deals with some renowned buyers from Europe and USA market some of those are with whom they worked and those whom they are still working. Main buyers name of the company are given below-
 Stylex
 C & A
 Lindex
 Forever
 Mango
 Lidl
 Nazzal Tex
Administration 54 Security 135 Others 590 Total 5306

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Raw Material
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Types of Raw Materials:
1. Yarn
2. Grey Fabric
3. Dyes
4. Chemical
Raw Materials Sources and Costs:
1. Yarn:

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PARTY NAME
YARN CATEGORY
RATE $ (KG)
RATE (Tk. / KG)
QUANTITY (KGS)
Shameem Spinning
20s/1 CVC
2.70
158
400.00
Shameem Spinning
30s/1 CVC
2.80
163
500.00
Padma Textile Mills
30s/1 CVC
3.00
175
3628.80
Square Textile Mills
24s/1 Comb
2.95
172
850.00
12s/1 Card
2.05
120
500.00
10s/1 Card
1.65
96
1850.00
Prime Composite Mills
32s/1 Comb
2.95
172
2550.00
Pacific Textile Mills ltd.
20s/1 Card
2.58
151
2000.00
Luksme Textile Mills ltd.
26s/1 Card
2.62
153
2000.00
Mosharaf Textile Mills ltd.
30s/1 Card
2.62
153
3250.00
Prime Composite Mills
32S/1 Comb
2.95
172
22500.00
PHP Textile Mills ltd.
24S/1 Comb
3.02
176
10000.00
Badsha Textile Mills ltd.
34S/1 Comb
3.25
190
20000.00
Shamsuddin Spinning
24S/1 Comb
3.00
175
6700.00
Shamsuddin Spinning
26S/1 Comb
3.00
175
4350.00
Tara Textile Mills ltd.
20S/1 Comb
3.00
175
1500.00
Israq Textile Mills ltd.
30s/1 Card
2.55
149
661.84
Shamsuddin Spinning
30s/1 Comb
3.05
178
1150.00
Shamsuddin Spinning
26s/1 Comb
3.00
175
1800.00
Prime Composite mills
20s/1 Card
2.40
140
1400.00
24s/1 Comb
2.85
166
1900.00
26s/1 Card
2.82
165
650.00
30s/1 Card
2.82
165
350.00

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Hanif Spinning Mills
28s/1 Comb
3.05
178
3800.00
26s/1 Comb
2.95
172
500.00
24s/1 Card
2.50
146
500.00
10s/1 Card
1.65
96
600.00
Shameem Spinning
30s/1 CVC
2.80
163
1600.00
30s/1 Comb
3.00
175
1000.00
2. DIFFERENT YARN AND COUNT FOR KNITTING: SL/No Yarn Type Composition Yarn Count Remark
01
Carded Yarn
100% Cotton
10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s, 34s,
02
Combed Yarn
100% Cotton
20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s, 50s, 60s.
03
G/M
(Viscose %)
1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40%
04
Spun Yarn
100% Polyester
36D, 70D, 72D, 75D,
05
PC
Polyster + Cotton
24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s,
06
CVC
Cotton + Polyester
24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s
07
C/M
Cotton 50% + Polyester 50%
26s, 28s, 30s,
08
Lycra
Synthetic
20D, 40D, 70D,
3. Grey Fabrics:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed-

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 Single jersey
 Double jersey
 Single jersey with lycra
 Interlock
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Rib
 Lycra rib
 1 x 1 rib & others
 Collar & cuff
 Polyester fabrics
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Terry Fleece
 Fleece
Sources:
The required grey fabric is produce in the industry.
4. Chemicals:
Chemicals
Rate per kg
01. Soda ash light
13
02. Caustic Soda
30
03. Common salt
7
04. Glauber Salt
9
05. H2O2
28
06. Acetic Acid
12
07. Oxalic Acid
44
08. Bleaching Powder
22
09. Hydrose
48
10. Leuphore BMB
520

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11. Uvtex BHT
309
12. Uvtex BHV
289
13. Uvtex BAM
310
14. Syno White 4BK
340
15. Uvtex BFE
919
16. Albatex FFC
344
17. CHTE nt. K50
249
18. InvadineLun
136
19. Feloson NOF
174
20. Invadine DA
180
21. Invatex CS
74
22. Cibacel DBC
107
23. Sarbid LDR
150
24. Mcropan DPE
126
25. Cibapon R
150
26. Ctobalance NSR
189
27. Rucozen RES
118
28. TinofixFRd
150
29. Lily XXL powder
40
30. RewanAcp
145
31. Cibatex ECO
150
32. Invatex CRA
200
33. Heptole EMG
114
34. Cibafluide C
89
35. Biovin 109
181

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36. Tinozym 44L
569
37. Beizym ULBD
347
38. Invatex PC
97
39. Invatex AC
117
40. Catalar BF
324
5. Dyes:
Dyes
Rate per kg
01. Solazol Black sp GRI
300
02. Reactofix Red ME4BL
262
03. Cottofix Red ME4BL
262
04. Reactofix Orange ME2RL
294
05. Reactofix N.ME2GL
354
06. Reactive Yellow H4GL
500
07. Reactive Deep Black N
200
08. Cottofix Black B
141
09. Reactive Blue R(SP)
950
10. Remazol Red RR
1080
11. Remazol Yellow RR
746
12. Remazol Blue RR
908
13. Remazol Blue BB NEW
2280
14. Remazol T. Blue G
344
15. Remazol B Yellow 3GL
1167
16. Remazol Red RGD
725

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17. Cibacron Red FN2BL
1488
18. Cibacron Red FB
918
19. Cibacron Red FN3G
1018
20. Cibacron Red WB
542
21. Cibacron Blue FNR
1488
22. Cibacron Blue FGFN
1540
23. Cibacron Navy WB
323
24. Drimarin Yellow CL2RL
510
25. Drimarin Red CL5B
494
26. Drimarin Violet K2RL
1600
27. Drimarin Navy CLB
743
28. Drimarin Blue CT2R
1647
29. Bezaktrive Yellow S3R
516
30. Bezaktrive Yellow SLF
975
31. Bezaktrive Yellow V GL
1321
32. Diss Yellow F5GL
400
33. Diss Red BF
600
34. Diss Blue FRL
1100
35. Diss Navy 2GL
300
36. Diss Black EXNSF
300
37. Terasil Black WNS
300
38. Terasil Red FB
600
39. Terasil Red WFS
600
40. Terasil Red W4BS
600

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Remarks:
The Mitali Fashions Ltd Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics from best quality yarn. They uses the best quality dyes like REMAZOL, REACTRON, REACTIVE, TERACIL etc. During the time of using dyestuff they give importance upon the quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and chemicals.

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PROCESS DEFINITION
Knitting is the interlocking or intermeshing of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth.
Lay-Out of Knitting Section
(Unit-I)
Rib m/c
Rib m/c
Rib m/c
Rib m/c
Table
Table
Self
Window
Window
Window
Window
Window
Self
M/c Room

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v
(Unit-II)
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
Rib m/c
West
East
North
South
Window
Window
Window
Window
Window
Entrance
Emergency Exit
Stair
Stair
Air Compressor m/cRoom
Checking Table
aid box
West
East
North
South
Office Room
Entrance
Stair
F.F.
Cylinder
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
S/J m/c
Rib m/c
Rib m/c
Engineering Stripe
Engineering Stripe
Engineering Stripe
Engineering Stripe
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W

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Process flow chart of knitting:
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Machine selection
Setting the machine for the specific design
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Dryer
Washing m/c
Entrance
Stair
Table
Table
Table
Table
S/J m/c
Air Compressor m/c Room
Window
Window
W
W

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Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Image of Knitting Machine in Mitali Fashions Ltd.
Fig: PAI LUNG Knitting Machine Fig: FUKAHARA Knitting Machine

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Fig: Mayer &Cieknitting machine
Fig: Image of Dust Removal Fan of Knitting M/c

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Fig: Image of VDQ Pulley of Knitting M/c
Fig: Image of Positive Feeder of Knitting M/c

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Fig: Image of Yarn Feeder Guide & Needle Action With Yarn of Knitting M/c
Fig: Image of Cam Box With Cam of Knitting M/c

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Fig: Image of Cam setting to the Cylinder
Fig: Image of Take down & Cloth Roller Fig:Image of Knitting M/c’s Meter
Sequence of yarn feeding:
Creel
Pipe line
Wheel
Yarn sensor
Yarn guide
Feeder
Needle

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Parts of knitting Machines:
Creel:Creel is used to place the cone of yarn.
Feeder:Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric.
Tensioning device:Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
VDQ pulley:VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
Guide:Guide is used to guide the yarn.
Sensor:Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.
Spreader:Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
Take up roller:Take up roller is used to take up the fabric.
Fixation feeder:These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the yarn at specific finger.
Rethom:These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine.
Terms of Knitting:
Course:
Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is called the course of the fabric. A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle called course. (Loop length * No of loop).

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Wales:
Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is called the Wales of the fabric.
A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting cycles. i.e. The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted fabrics is called wale.
Face loop:
If the legs of new loop is passes over the old loop is called face loop.
Back loop:
If the legs of new loop is passes under the old loop is called face loop.
Stitch density:
The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of courses or Wales; it is the total number of needles loops in a square area measurement such as a square inch or three square centimeters.
It is expressed as,
Course per inch × Wales per inch.
Stitch length:
Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm.
Number of needle:
Machine diameter × Machine gauge × 3.1416.
GSM:
The weight of one square meter of fabric express in gram is known as GSM.
Needle gauge:
The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of the needle bed or needle bar. As for example:

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1. In case of circular weft knitting machine & Tricot warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per inch.]
2. In case of Raschel warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per two inch.]
Needle:
There are three types of needle-
1. Bearded needle
2. Compound needle
3. Latch needle-
 One butt needle.
 Two butt needle.
 Three butt needle.
 Four butt needle.
The most widely used needle is latch needle.
Fig:Main parts of latch needle
Cam:
Cam is called the specific path of the needles to produce a specific type of fabric.

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There are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine:
1. Knit Cam.
2. Tuck Cam.
3. Miss Cam.
Knit Cam:
It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop and receive the new yarn.
Tuck Cam:
It moves the needle upward not enough to clear. The old loop but receive the new yarn.
Miss cam:
It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old loop nor receive the new yarn.

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Sinker:
It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective operation approximately at right angles at the hook side between adjacent needles.
Function of sinker:
In circular knitting m/c sinker helps to form the loop by holding down the yarn
Loop forming sequence of latch needle:

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Latch opening:
The needle goes upward and the sinker comes in action to hold down the loop. Then the old loop press down the latch and it gets open.
Yarn receiving:
The needle iscontinuous moving upward enough to receive the new yarn. The old loop remains on the open latch that is called tucking on the latch position.
Clearing:
The needle goes to its ultimate height to clear the old loop and the new yarn still within the reach of the needle.
Landing:
According to the path of cam, the needle starts moving downward. Being pushed by the old loop the latch gets closed and the new yarn is entrapped within the closed hook.
Knock off:
The needle continues moving downward. When it reaches at the down position, the old loop slides off from the back of the latch over the tip of the needle.This old loop then taken by the take up roller hangs from the new loop.

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End products of Circular Knitting Machine:
Single Jersey M/C:
 S/J Plain
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Single pique
 Double pique
 Mini jacquard
 Terry
Interlock M/C:
 Interlock pique
 Eyelet fabric
 Mash fabric
 Honeycomb fabric
 Face/Back rib
Rib M/C:
 1*1 Rib fabric
 2*2 Rib fabric
 Separation fabric
 Honeycomb
End products of Flat Bed Knitting Machine:
 Stripping
 Plain
 Emboss

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Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-
 Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
 Finished G.S.M.
 Yarn count
 Types of yarn (combed or carded)
 Diameter of the fabric.
 Stitch length
 Color depth.
Analysis of the Fabric
Sample analysis:
After receiving an order first step is analysis the fabric. A sample is analysis as per following system.
Design analysis:-
Example:

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Relationship between knitting parameter:
1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease.

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3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch . increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM
Production Parameter:
 Machine Diameter;
 Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
 No. of feeds or feeders in use;
 Machine Gauge;
 Count of yarn.
Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
 By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
 By increasing the number of feeder:

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If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
 By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher
gauge production can be increased.
 By imposing other developments:
 Using creel-feeding system
 Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage
 Using yarn feed control device
 Using auto lint removal.
Production calculation:
 Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
Yarncount
RPM No of Feeder No of Needle SL mm

  

3527.80
. . ( )
 Production/shift in meter:

P a g e | 4 6
 Fabric width in meter:
/ 100
.
/ 100
.




Wales cm
Total no of Needlesused in knitting
Wales cm
Total no of wales
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape
 If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase.
 For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
Effect of stitch length on color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with
higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then.
Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:
 Brought good quality yarn
 Machines are oiled and greased accordingly
 G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately
 Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month
 Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system
Changing of GSM:
/ 100
. 60 8
/
/ min .

   


Course cm
RPM No of Feeder Efficiency
Course cm
Course

P a g e | 4 7
 Major control by QAP pulley
 Minor control by stitch length adjustment
 Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase
Other m/c in Knitting Section:
 Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine
 Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
 Electric Balance for GSM check.
 Compressor 2 pieces.
Image of fabric Inspection M/c
Faults & Remedies of knitting fabric:
 Hole Mark:
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

P a g e | 4 8
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
1.Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
2.Use proper count of yarn.
3.Correctly set of yarn feeder.
4.Knot should be given properly.
 Needle Mark:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
 Sinker Mark:
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.

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 Star Mark:
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
 Drop Stitches:
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
 Oil stain
Causes:

P a g e | 5 0
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
 Rust stain:
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
 Pin hole:
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.
 Grease stain:
Causes:
 Improper greasing
 Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
 Cloth fall- out:
Causes:

P a g e | 5 1
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
 Barre:
 A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different luster, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
 Fly Dust:
Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.

P a g e | 5 2
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
 Yarn contamination:
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
 Yarn Faults:
 Naps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness.

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DEFINITION

P a g e | 5 4
LAB dip development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer‘s requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production the dyeing planning done.
OBJECT OF LAB DIP
The main objectives in LAB dip are as follows.
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectroflash.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A B C).
Sequence of Operation:
Defining the color as buyer wanted
Recipe formula by spectrophotometer/from previous history
Lab dip preparation
Send to buyer for approval
Send the recipe of approved sample to dyeing section
DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP
Receiving standard swatch
Spectrophotometer reading
Recipe start up software
Start up recipe given
Manual dispersion (pipetting)

P a g e | 5 5
Pot dyeing
Unload
Normal wash
Acid wash
Hot wash
Cold Rinsing
Drying
COLOR MEASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods –
Color measurement
Manual method
Instrumental method

P a g e | 5 6
Manual Method:
In manual method, the standard sample‘s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the standard matched, that sample‘s color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This method‘s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color matching.
Instrumental method:
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of color measurement. ―Spectrophotometer‖ (Data color) interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
PREPARATION AND STORAGE OF STOCK DYES AND CHEMICALS
Preparation of Concentration of stock dye soln -
Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2% and 4% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily used.
Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical soln-
Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.
DYES AND CHEMICALS MEASURING FORMULA FOR LAB
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -
Amount of dye soln (ml) =
Example –

P a g e | 5 7
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[ If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes ] then ,
Amount of dye soln (ml) = = 20 ml .
The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow -
Amount of chemical soln (ml) =
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 1 : 10
[If taken 25 % stock soln of salt] then ,
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = = 4 ml
Lay Out Of Lab
Lay out of Dyeing lab West
South North
East
Chemical
Self
Basine
Steam Boiler
Table
Toilet
F.F. Cylinder

P a g e | 5 8
Dyesds
Table
Lay out of Dyeing& QC lab
Basin
Light Box
Sample dyeing m/c
Sample dyeing m/c
Sample dyeing m/c
Table
PH meter
Door
Office Table
Chair
Chair
Chair
Almirrah of file
1st aid box
F.F. Cylinder
Ironing Table
Dyes Self
Dyes Self
Dyes Self
Dyes Self
Dyes Self
Table
Balance
Pipette Box
Table
Prepared dyes &chemical Stock% in flask
Table
Table
Table
Bench
Table
Spectrometer Data Color
Computer
Computer
Table
Water Bath
Balance
Table
Table
Chair
Chair
1st aid box
T D
T D
Shaker Bath
Gyrowash
E W
E W
Electrolux
Wascator
Tumble Dryer
Basin
Chemicals flask
Wet Lab
Analytical Lab

P a g e | 5 9
East
NorthSouth
West
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINERIES IN DYEING LAB
01. Name : Auto Dispenser
Brand : Talos Robotics
Type : Robolab
Mfg. : ―Talos‖ – 66100 Drama GR
Store
Wash Room
Reception
Office Table
Chair
Office Table
Chair
Chair
Chair
Chair
Emergency Exit
Robolab
Computer
Chair
Light Fastness
m/c
Office Table
Chair
Chair
Chair
File’s Self
Basin
OD
LDM
LDM
LDM
Balance Lab Dyeing m/c Oven Dryer
OD
OD
OD
OD
Temp PHOven Crock PillingTruburst
Indicatormeter IncubatorMasterTester
Emerson
Table
Chair
PHVisco
metermeter
Self type Table
PhysicalLab
Dyeing Lab
Auto Dispensing Lab
F.F. Cylinder
Entrance

P a g e | 6 0
Origin : Greece.
Price : 35000 Uro
Mfg. Year : 2011
Total Weight : 800 Kg
02. Name : Lab Dyeing m/c
Brand : Datacolor (AHIBA IRTM)
Origin : Germany
Brand : Fong‘s
Origin : Hongkong
Brand : Infra RedPyrojec (2000 series)
Origin : England
05. Name : Lab Dyeing m/c (High Temp- 1400C)
Brand : Daclim Starlet
Mfg. : Daclim StarletCo., Ltd.
Origin : Korea
06. Name : Oven Dryer m/c

P a g e | 6 1
Brand : Daclim Starlet
Mfg. : Daclim StarletCo. Ltd.
Origin : Korea
07. Name : Digital Balance
Brand : Dhaus
08. Name : Tumble Dryer
Brand : SDL Atlas
Origin : England
09. Name : Shaker Bath
Brand : Rapid
10. Name : Gyro wash
11. Name : Electrolux - wascator
Brand : SDL Atlas
12. Name : Light Fastness Machine
Brand : Atlas Ci 3000+
13. Name : Strength Tester
Brand : Truburst2
Mfg. : James H. Heal Co. Ltd

P a g e | 6 2
Origin : England
14. Name : Pilling & Snagging Tester
Origin : England
15. Name : Crock master
Type : Color Fastness to Rubbing
16. Name : Oven Incubator
Type : Perspiration, Celebra Testing
17. Name : Viscotester
Type : Viscosity Test for Printing Paste
18. Name : Emerson m/c
Type : Humidity Control
19. Name : Spectrophotometer
Brand : Datacolor
Types of raw material:
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric. In lab dyeing the raw materials are-
1. Fabric
2. Dye stuff
3. Chemical and auxiliaries

P a g e | 6 3
Name and source:
Fabric:
1. 100 % Cotton fabric
2. CVC fabric
3. PC fabric
4. Lycra twill fabric
5. Canvas fabric
6. Poplin fabric
Pipette used in dyeing lab
0.01, 0.1, 0.5, 1, 2, 5,10, 20 ml etc.
STOCK SOLUTION PREPARATION
SHADE % STOCK SOLUTION %
0.0001-0.009
0.1
0.10-0.99
0.5
1-1.99
1
2-3.99
2
4 TO MORE
4
FOR PRODUCTION: SL. SHADE % SALT SODA WATER
01
0.0001-0.01
7
5
1:8
02
0.01-0.08
10
6
03
0.08-0.15
12
7

P a g e | 6 4
PROCEDURE OF LAB DIP:
A FOR 100% COTTON FABRIC (ALL IN ONE METHOD)
 Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
 Calculate the recipe.
 Keep the fabric in the pot.
 Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipetting.
 Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.
Program – 1: For light shade
Fixed temperature = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 2: For dark shade
Fixed temperature = 800c
04
0.15-0.8
15
8
1:7
05
0.8-1.5
18
9
06
1.5-2
20
10
07
2-2.5
30
13
08
2.5-3
40
15
09
3-3.5
50
16
10
3.5-4
60
18
11
4-4.5
70
20
1:6
12
4.5 and over
80
20

P a g e | 6 5
Time = 60 min.
 After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
 Acid wash for neutralization.
 Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
 Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.
B FOR POLYESTER/COTTON BLEND FABRIC (ALL IN ONE METHOD):
 Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
 Calculate the recipe for polyester part.
 Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate are taken to the pot by pipetting.
 Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 min. at 1300c.
 After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
 Then reduction clearing by hydrous, caustic & detergent for 20 min at 700c.
 Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,
 Calculate the recipe for cotton part.
 Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipetting .
 Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends on what types of dyes are being used.
 Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
 Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample.
Program –01:
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 02 :
Fixed temp. = 800c
Time = 60 min.

P a g e | 6 6
Batching:
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot of a Particular order.

P a g e | 6 7
Types:
Batching
Solid Batch Ratio Batch
 Solid Batch: It is a process to get ready the same dia fabrics that should be dyed.
 Ratio Batch: It is a process to get ready the different dia fabrics that should be dyed.
Batch process follow-up:
Grey Fabric Inspection
Batch m/c (From back side to face side)
Batch
Fabric Turning
Stitch the fabric
Storing for dyeing
Purpose of Batch Section:
 To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.
 To turn out the tubular fabric in its grey stage and to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction during the time of dyeing.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-
 Order sheet (Receive from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (Color or white, light or Dark)
 M/c available

P a g e | 6 8
 Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC)
 Emergency.
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Criteria of proper batching
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Grey fabric inspection
The batch section of the Mitali Fashions Ltd. inspects the following parameters of the received fabric-
 Knitting Hole
 Oil Spot
 Tara
 Shade UP
 Star Mark
 Patta
 Lack out.
According to Rope Length Uses The Following Nozzles :
Rope Length(m)
Nozzle

P a g e | 6 9
5-150
1
151-230
2
301-500
3
501-700
4
701-1000
6
1001-1500
10
Calculation:
Rope Length = = Result
Suppose m/c has 4 nozzles then the result should be divided by 4.
Or,
Dia (cm) × 2 / 100 × G.S.M = Result
1000 / Result = per kg Rope length in Meter
Say buyer requirements:
Red color:
21‖ 22‖ 23‖ 24‖ 25‖ 26‖ Rib (4%): 30‖.
500.0 800.0 300.0 600.0 200.0 100.0 100.0
Total:2600 Kg
Rib: 4% (25 Kg)
Say m/c Capacity:630 Kg
Total Body:2600-100=2500Kg
 Solid Batch: Body- 605 kg
Rib- 25 kg
630 kg
 Ratio Batch( 21”): 500×630
2600

P a g e | 7 0
= 121 kg
To apply the same requirements
21‖=121.0
22‖=144.0
23‖=73.0
24‖=73.0
25‖=48.0
26‖=24.0
Rib (30‖) = 25.0
Total= 630 Kg
Rope Length = = = 2784
Suppose m/c has 4 nozzles then the result should be divided by 4.
Rope Length= = 696 m (Length per Nozzle)
Remarks
Batch section is well. Properly Fabric inspection report to maintained.Fabric rake is not well any time it will crumb on the floor.

P a g e | 7 1
Dyeing

P a g e | 7 2
Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.
Lay Out of Dyeing Section
Unit- I
Unit- II
Asst. Manager Room
Chemical Store Room
Tube Finishing Incharge Room
AGM Room
Power Distribution Room
Chemical Store Room
Tube Finishing Section
Emergency Exit
Entrance
Dilmenler
1400 Kg
Dilmenler
1050 Kg
Dilmenler
1050 Kg
Dilmenler
750 Kg
Dilmenler
750 Kg
DM 25 Kg
Dilmenler
175 Kg
Dilmenler
300 Kg
25 Kg
Fong’s
25 Kg
Fong’s
Boiler Water Reserve Tank
West
South North
East
East
North South
West

P a g e | 7 3
FLOW CHART FOR KNIT DYEING
Asst. Manger Room
Auto Dispensing Premises For Dyeing Unit I & II
Entrance
Batching Incharge
Table
Thies m/c
25 Kg
25 Kg
Thies
300 Kg
Thies
500 Kg
Thies
500 Kg
Thies
800 Kg
Turning m/c
Turning m/c
Emergency Exit

P a g e | 7 4
Fabric Receive From Inspection Section
Batching
Fabric Turning
Sewing & Fabric Loading
Pretreatment
Dyeing
After Treatment
UNLOAD
Production parameters:
Particulars
PH
Temperature
Time
Scouring bath
11.00
980C
40-50 min
Enzyme bath
4.5-5.0
500-550C
50 min
Dye bath
5.5-6.5
---
---
Soaping bath
6.5-7.0
900C-980C
20 min
Softening bath
6.0
400C-450C
20 min
Fixing bath
5.5-6.0
450-500C
20 min
Liquor ratio:
Scouring: 1: 8
Dyeing : Light and critical color : 1: 8
Normal and dark color : 1: 7
Turquoise Color : 1: 10

P a g e | 7 5
Soaping: 1: 8
Softening: 1:5 – 6
Pretreatment Process
Process Flow Chart for Demineralization (If necessary)
Fabric load
↓
Water fill
↓
Felosan NOF + A. Acid (Run time10´)
↓ At 60ºC
Drain bath
Process Flow Chart for Scouring & Bleaching
Water fill
↓
Fabric Load
↓
Detergent/wetting agent + S.A + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) at 500c
↓ At 600C
Caustic (Linear dosing 5´)
↓At 700C
H2O2 dosing 10 min
↓At 70ºC
Then temp. raised to 1100C & run 30´
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 5 ‘
↓
Drain& Fill Water
↓
Normal Hot 900c at 10 min
↓
Rinse 5’ (Sample check)
↓
Water drain& Fill Water
↓

P a g e | 7 6
H2O2 Killer at 500C
↓
Acetic Acid (PH check – 4.5)
↓
Enzyme (Dosing for 10´ )
↓Run 60´ at 55ºC
Drain & Fill water
↓
Normal Hot at 800C
↓ Run 10´
Rinse 10’
↓
Water drain
Example of Recipe for Pretreatment (Approximately):
Demineralizing:
 Detergent(KappawetBos)- 0.1 g/l
Scouring & Bleaching:
 Detergent(KappawetBos) - 0.3 g/l
 Ant creasing( Anticrease-D) – 0.5 g/l
 Antifoaming ( Kappasol AF-200 ) - 0.1 g/l
 Stabilizer (Antisil CONZ) – 0.6 g/l
 Oil remover( Avolan- IS W) – 0.5 g/l
 Sequestering (Denstar Ex) – 1.0 g/l
 Caustic soda ( caustic Soda L/C) – 2.0 g/l
 Peroxide(Antiper R) -7.0 g/l
Neutral:
 Peroxide killer (Antiper R)
 Acetic acid– 0.8 g/l
Enzyme:
 Acetic acid L/C – 0.4 g/l
 Enzyme(Bio Touch – C 39) – 0.6 g/l
Enzyme wash

P a g e | 7 7
Pretreatment Process for Viscose
Water fill &Fabric Load
↓
Detergent/wetting agent + S.A. + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) at 500c
↓ At 600C
Soda Ash (dosing 5´)
↓ At 600C
Viscobleach 10’
↓At 700C
H2O2 dosing 10 min
↓
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 5 ‘(Sample Check)
↓
Drain & Fill Water
(For Turquoise dyeing 2nd time scouring bleaching should be done)
↓
↓
Rinse 5’
↓
Water drain & Fill Water
↓
Acetic Acid + H2O2 Killer+ Enzyme 550c at 20’(PH check – 4.5)
↓
Normal Hot at 800C
↓ Run 10
Rinse 10’
↓
Water drain
Half Bleach
Detergent : (0.80 gm/l)
Sequestering agent : (0.10 gm/l)
Antifoaming agent : (0.70 gm/l)
Ant creasing agent : (1.0 gm/l) [only for S/J, Lycra S/J]
Stabilizer : (0.20 gm /l)
Caustic Soda : (2.0 gm/l)
Soda : (1.0 gm/l)
H2O2 : (2.0 gm/l) [dosing at 700C, 6 min]

P a g e | 7 8
Run at 950C, 40 min
Hot wash (without chemical)
↓Run at 800C, 10 min
Neutralization (bleaching)
Acetic acid (1.20 gm/l)
Hot wash (with chemical)
Per-oxide killer (0.20 gm/l) [PH Check 5.6 to 7]
Then Dyeing
Different Fabric’s Scouring – Bleaching Runtime Process
For White Fabric- Temp : 1000c Run Time: 30 min
Lycra Fabric – Temp : 1050c Run Time: 30 min
Fleece - Temp : 1100c Run Time: 30 min
Single Jersey - Temp : 1100c Run Time: 30 min
Viscose - Temp : 850c Run Time: 30 min
Temp : 850c Run Time: 25 min
Dyeing process Dyeing process of Cotton:
After Pretreatment Fill Water
Cotton Leveling agent+S.A. (Denstar Ex) (500C X 10´)
Color dosing (500CX 10´)
(Run time: 10/15´)
Salt dosing (500C X 10´)
(Run time: 20´)
(Salt Sample Check)
Soda dosing (500CX 40´), [PH: 9-12]
(Run time: 10´)
For Turquoise 2 Times S & B Should Be Done

P a g e | 7 9
Color steam, 60-700C(20/min)
(Run time: 60´)
Sample check
If Ok (Fixing & softening should be done)
If not ok then it will take more time about 40´ or 60´& if remain light shade 1st acid wash then hot wash & if remain dark shade 1st hot wash then acid wash should be done.
Rinsing wash (15´/20´)
B.D& Fill water
Acetic acid (400C)
R.t:20´
Rinsing wash 10/15´
Drain & Fill Water
Washing agent
Hot wash for deep shade, 950C X 15/20´
For normal shade 900/800C X 10/15´
Cooling (Sample Check )
(If OK)
Rinse-10’
Drain & Fill water
Fixing Agent (for deep shade, R.t:15´ X 400C)
Rinsing wash 10/15´
Drain & Fill water
Softening at 40/450 C X 20/25´
Final Sample check (if ok)
Rinse 10’
Unload
Example of Recipe (Approximately):
Dye bath: Dyestuff:
 Levelling(Eksagal – REB) – 0.4 g/l S/fix yellow SPD : 1.4%
 Ant creasing (Anticrease D) – 0.5 g/l S/fix Red SPD :1.1%

P a g e | 8 0
 Sequestering (Denstar Ex) – 0.5 g/l S/fixN Blue SPD :1.8%
 Glubersalt(G.salt L/C) – 70 g/l
 Soda ash L/C – 17 g/l
Aftertrearment:
 Acetic acid L/C– 0.8 g/l
 Washing agent (Avolan IS W) – 0.5 g/l
 Fixing agent (Kappafix-GG 100) – 1.5%
 Softener AWSP – 5%
Dyeing Procedure of polyester fabric
After Pretreatment Water is filled
Detergent (Kappawet- BOS) 15’ at 950c
Cooling at 800 C& Rinse wash 10’
Drain& Fill water
Acetic acid added for PH- controlled
Check PH at 4.5
Polyester Leveling agent ( Rucogal POL ) +S.A. (Denstar Ex) for 10 min at 600c
Color/Dyes dosing for 15 min.(Run for 10 min).
Steam up 80oc & then Steam up at 1000c by 1.50/min
Temperature increase at 1300 C by 10/min
Run for 50 min.
Cooling at 1000 C by 10/min
Direct cooling at 800(Shade check)
Rinsing for 15 min.
Drain&water filled
Caustic dosing 60oc x 10 min & run time- 10’

P a g e | 8 1
Hydrose at 90oc (Inject). Runtime - 20’
Cooling at 800c &Shade check
Rinsing for 15 min.
Drain & Fill water
Normal hot at 900c 10’
Cooling at 800c & Rinse 10’
Drain & Fill water
Acetic acid added for PH- controlled (PH– 4.5) at 500c 10’
Rinsing for 10 min
Drain & Fill water
Softener dosing 10’ at 400c
Run time 10’
Rinse 10’ & drain
Unloading
Dyeing Procedure of PC / CVC fabric
The dyeing process is similar to polyester and cotton fabric dyeing. For this fabric at first polyester part should be dyed like the dyeing process of polyester fabric then cotton part should be dyed as like as the dyeing process of cotton fabric. Dyeing Procedure of Viscose fabric
After Pretreatment Water is filled
Leveling agent (Saragal- CFTRH) & S.A. (Denstar Ex) Inject at 550C
Run for 20 min
Color was dosing for 30 min at 600C
Run for 20 min

P a g e | 8 2
Salt dosing for 30min by 3 times (1/10 + 2/10 + 7/10)
Run for 10 min
NaHCO3 dosing at 600c x 15’
Soda dosing by 3 times for 40 min at 600C
Run for 10 min
Temperature increase at 800C
Run for 1 hrs
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing for 15 min.
Drain & fill water
Acetic acid dosing for neutralization for 10 min (PH check at 5.5)
Run for 15 min. at 40 0C
Shade check (ok)
Rinsing for 10 min
Drain
Water was filled at required amount
Hot wash at 950C for 10 min.
Drain
Water was filled at required amount
Rinsing -20 min.
Drain
Fixing agent dosing - 500c x 10’. Run time – 10’
Softener dosing at 500Cx 10’
Run for 10 min

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Rinse 10’ & drain
Unloading the dyed fabric
Flow chart of White fabric dyeing:
After pretreatment Fill water
↓
Detergent/wetting agent + S.A + Stabilizer + Anticreasing agent (inject) at 500c
↓ At 600C
Caustic (Linear dosing 5´)
↓At 700C
H2O2 dosing 10 min
↓At 800C
Synowhite- 4BK (Iris)
↓
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 5 ‗
↓
Drain & Fill Water
↓
↓
Rinse 5‘ two time (Sample check)
↓
Water drain & Fill Water
↓
H2O2 Killer at 500C
↓
Acetic Acid (PH check – 4.5)
↓
Enzyme (Dosing for 10´ )
↓Run 60´ at 55ºC
Drain & Fill water
↓
Normal Hot at 800C
↓ Run 10´
Rinse 10‘
↓
Water drain& Fill
↓
Softener dosing at 500Cx 10’
↓
Run for 10 min
↓

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Rinse 10’ & drain
↓
Unload the fabric
Flow chart of Fluorescent Color:
After Pretreatment Fill Water
Soda Ash Inject at 400c (PH - 8.5-9)
Anti Foaming agent (NS). Dosing- 5’, Runtime- 5’
At 750c
Catanizer (Recfix HM 38M) 3 times
(For ;Dosing- 10’, Runtime-10’
For ;Dosing- 10’, Runtime-10’
For ; Dosing- 15’, Runtime-20’)
BD & Rinse 2 times
Drain & Fill Water
At 400c
Anti Foaming agent (NS). Dosing- 5’
Dispersing agent(Emacol CTF 1101). Dosing- 10’, Runtime- 5’
Color dosing (750C) 3 times
(For ; Dosing- 10’, Runtime-10’
For ; Dosing- 10’, Runtime-10’
For ; Dosing- 15’, Runtime-30’)
At 600c Drain
Rinse 5’ / 10’
Drain & Fill water
2 times Normal Hot 10’ at 70/ 800c

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Drain & Fill water
At 400c
Binder (Reczol HK 800M).Dosing- 20’, Runtime- 20’
If Shade remain deep then hot wash should be done
Rinse 10’
Drain & Unload
Flow Chart for Turquise color:
After salt dosing the temperature will raised 60ºc
↓
Dyes dosing (40min)
↓
The run time (20min)
↓
(80ºc, 10min)
↓
Cooling at 60ºc temp
↓
Soda dosing (40min)
↓
After 10 min cut sample
↓
B.D
Dyeing process for Remazol RR-series dyestuff/Normal shade:
600C
5’
25’ 15’ 10’ 5’ 15’ 25’ 25’ 30’ 30’-60’
Dyes 1/3
salt
2/3
salt
1/5
soda
4/5
soda
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
Run
time
5’
Run
Level ling
PH-6.5

P a g e | 8 6
To added leveling, Ant creasing, Sequestering, Glaubersalt, Soda ash, at 600C. Run the bath 5 mins.To require PH-6.5.
 To added Dyes by 25 mins. Run the bath 15 mins.
 To added 1/3 salt by 10 mins. Run the bath 5 mins.
 To added 2/3salt by 15 mins and also run the bath 25mins.
 To added 1/5 soda by 25 mins and run the bath 5 mins then added to 4/5 soda by 30 mins.
 Run the bath 30-60 mins matches the shade percentage and drop the bath.
Recipe (Approximately):
Dye bath: Dyestuff:
 Levelling– 0.4 g/l R/M yellow 3GL : 0.4416%
 Ant creasing– 0.5 g/l R/M Red RR :0.00735%
 Sequestering– 0.5 g/l R/M Blue RR :0.0084%
 Glaubersalt(G.salt) – 20 g/l
 Soda ash – 5.0 g/l
Aftertrearment:
 Acetic acid(P.2900) – 0.5 g/l
 Soaping(prowash1011) – 0.5 g/l
 Softener(5300) – 1.5%
Dyeing Sequence for Dark Shade
Loading fabric after pretreatment with Detergent (600c)
Leveling agent (600c, 10min). Check ph 4-4.5
Salt dosing (600 c x 10 min dosing)
Color dosing (600 c x 30 min dosing)
Run 20 min
Soda dosing (if high temp 70ºc, dosing 30min)
Sample check
Run time 10 min

P a g e | 8 7
Bath drop Process flow chart for polyester dyeing (Light shade):
Water loading
Fabric loading
Scouring chemicals (98°C, 40min)
Rinsing (95°C, 30min) ;( 80°C, 10min) ;( 60 °C, 5min)
Neutralization (60° C, 12min)
Rinsing (60°C, 15min)
Leveling chemicals (60°C, 10min)
Ph check (4.5~4.8)
(80°C-mixing)Adding dyes (60°C, 15min-dosing)
Running (60°C, 10min)
Temp. Rise (60°C to 95°C, 1.5-Gradient)
Temp. Rise (95°C to 130°C, 1.0-Gradient)
Hold time (40min)
Cool down (130°C to 95°C, 1.0-Gradient)
Cool down (95°Cto 80°C, 1.5-Gradient)
Sample cutting
Shade match (ok)
Rinsing (until water clean)
Reduction clearing (80°C, 30min)
Reduction clearing (80°C, 30min)
Cooling (80°C to 60°C, 1.0-Gradient)
Neutralization (60° C, 10min)
Rinsing (60° C, 10min)
Hot wash (70° C, 15min)
Rinsing (60° C, 10min)
Temp. Down (60°C-40°C)
Sample cutting
Shade match

P a g e | 8 8
Apply softener (40°C, 10min)
Fabric unload
Topping:
In addition, color matching not control, topping or re-dyeing or re-processing:
Bath drain
↓
Washing (400C)
↓
Leveling (1 gm/l)
↓
Salt transfer (less)
Color dosing (as required shade)
Soda dosing
Addition:
Soda dosing
↓
Sample check
↓If not OK
Cool to 400C
↓
Color dosing
Temperature rise to 600C
↓
Sample check
FLOW CHART FOR STRIPPING
Inject 0.5% detergent 500C
↓
Dosing Caustic (600C)
↓
Dosing Kappatex- R98 (15min, 800C)
↓
Steam Up (950C x 45’ )
↓
Cooling 800C
↓

P a g e | 8 9
Drain & Fill
↓
Normal Hot (900c x 10’)
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 10’ (Sample Check)
↓
Drain
Stripping For Viscose:
Inject 0.5% detergent 500C
↓
Dosing Soda Ash (500C)
↓
Dosing () Kappatex- R98 (10min, 600C). Run Time - 5’
↓
Dosing () Kappatex- R98 (15min, 800C). Run Time 20’
↓
Steam Up (950C x 45’ )
↓
Cooling 800C
↓
Drain & Fill
↓
Normal Hot (900c x 10’)
↓
Cooling 800c
↓
Rinse 10’ (Sample Check)
↓
Drain
Color or salt which should be dosed first:
 -In case of 0-1.0% (light) shade color is dosed first then salt dissolving is performed.
 -In case of 1-2.5% (medium) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.
 -In case of 3 & above% (dark) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.

P a g e | 9 0
DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART
 Water level before fabric loading(Lit)
 Loading Time(min)


 Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min)
 Dosing time of caustic

 Run time



 Dosing time of per-oxide

 Total time need to raise temp of 105ºC
 Gradiant (Degree/min)


 Total run time(min)


 Total time need to cooling at 80c

 Gradiant (Degree/min)


 Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c

 Total run time after acid dosing

 Check PH


 Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing
 Check residual per-oxide (ppm)

LIST OF THE MACHINERY:
M/C NO
M/C TYPE
BRAND NAME
ORIGIN OF MACHINE
MANUFACT- URING YEAR
CAPACITY
Kg
No. of Nozzle
Max. Temp
01
WINCH
THIES
GERMANY
2000
300
02
1400C
02
WINCH
THIES
GERMANY
2000
500
02
1400C
03
WINCH
THIES
GERMANY
2000
500
04
1400C
04
WINCH
THIES
GERMANY
2003
800
04
1400C
05
(Sample)
THIES
GERMANY
2000
25
01
1400C
06
(Sample)
THIES
GERMANY
2000
25
01
1400C
07
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2013
300
02
1350C
08
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2010
700
04
1350C
09
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2007
700
04
1350C
10
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2007
1050
06
1350C
11
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEEY
2007
175
01
1350C

P a g e | 9 1
12
H.T. D.M (Sample)
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2007
25
01
1350C
13
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2010
1050
06
1350C
14
H.T. D.M
DILMENLER
TURKEY
2010
1400
06
1350C
15
SAMPLE
FONG‘S
SHENZHEN
2002
25
01
1400C
16
SAMPLE
FONG‘S
SHENZHEN
2002
25
01
1400C
Dyeing m/c and their different parts:
Fig: Dyeing m/c Fig: Dosing Tank
Fig: Winch Roller Fig: Color mixing

P a g e | 9 2
Common dyeing faults with their remedies 1.Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature.
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
 Dyes lot variation.
 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
 Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Maintain the same liquor ratio.
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
 Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
 - Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process.
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
3. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dyes.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Hardness of water.

P a g e | 9 3
 Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Proper m/c speed.
 Use of soft water
4. Crease mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
 maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the m/c load
 Higher liquor ratio
5. Dye spot:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
6. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.

P a g e | 9 4
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Higher liquor ratio
7. Softener Mark:
Causes:
 Improper mixing of the Softener.
 Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
 Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
 Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
8. Patchy dyeing effect:
Causes:
 Entangleent of fabric.
 Faulty injection of alkali.
 Improper addition of color.
 Due to hardness of water.
 Due to improper salt addition.
 Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
 Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper pretreatment.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
 Proper salt addition.
Remarks:
The Mitali Fashions Ltd Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. strictly follows the production parameters like the time, temperature, M: L ratio pH etc. As they do some difficult shade, it takes more time for the production of the batch. Because of the trolley shortage and generator failure, the production process is sometime hampered. Considering these limitations, the Asst. Manager and the AGM try their best to reduce the production time.

P a g e | 9 5

P a g e | 9 6
To add value in color Divine Group has in-house Garments printing facility. Its printing section is well equipped with necessary equipment from film to screen development. Printing section has the ability to print Pigment, Silicon, Puff, Flock, Glitter, Metal stone and Rubber. Divine Printing unit has printing capacity of 15,000 pieces per day per design and is capable to print up to 10 colors.
All over printing machine

P a g e | 9 7
Printing System
Hand screen printing
Screen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
Automatic Rotary Screen Printing
Flow chart of Printing section
Artwork from merchandiser
↓
Design input
↓
Design development
↓
Positive/film
↓
Print taken
↓
Requisition by merchandiser
↓
Panel (cutting fabric parts)
↓
Expose (frame adjusted)
↓
Fila and frame adjusted
↓
Water spray
↓
Panel send to buyer
↓
Buyer approval
↓
Sale sample
↓
Counter sample
↓
P P production
↓
Accessories booking
↓
Requisition by merchandiser for fabric
↓

P a g e | 9 8
Fabric received and store
↓
Count the fabric
↓
Inspection the fabric
↓
Fabric adjusted
↓
Bulk production start
↓
Hydro extractor from dryer
↓
Inspection
↓
Finishing
↓
Delivery
Types of print
 Rubber print
 Pigment print(Water base print)
 Foil print
 Discharge print
 Puff print
 Glitter print
 Afsan print
 High density print
 Plastisol print
 Crack print
 Gel print
 Sticker/transfer print
 Reflective
Design
Artwork receive from development
↓
Detail design perform & analyze by Adobe Photoshop & illustrate
↓
Prepare individual film for different color by work express software
↓
Send to expose room

P a g e | 9 9
Screen Preparation:
Mesh fabric tight with frame
Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.
Placed design paper under the mesh.
Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.
Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
Sequence of printing
Count garment parts
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion
Printing the garment part by using screen
Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c
Inspection is done in qualify control department
Process for Foil Printing
Add adhesive on the require design by screen
Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C
Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
Garments Printing Chemicals :
1. White paste- i) Asublanc E-BT
ii) Asublanc E-V 375
iii) Asulak E 961

P a g e | 1 0 0
2. Matt clear paste- i) Asulak E-BT
ii) Asulak 250
iii) Asulak E-pu
iv) Asulak E-po
3. Paste for m/c print : i) Asublance P
ii) Asulak E-ns
iii) Asulance E-ns
4.pigment paste:
i.Asuprint E-BT
ii.Asuprint E-NS
5.Binder: i.Asucryl EAP 50 NEW
6. Thickener:i.clear EPG AC
7.Discharse paste
8.Pearl paste
9.Alternate of Flock print: Asulak E-peach Coat
10.Cross linking / Fixing agent
11. Radium paste
12.Foil paste
13.Glitter Binder
14.Reflective paste
15.Pritig softener
16.Table gum/Adhesive
Common print defects
# Measuring fault
# Print missing
# Wrong color
# Hand feel not correct
# Color migration problem
# Not properly attach
# Dirty marks
# Uneven print
# Air bubble
# Air hole
# Shade variation
Major causes of print defects
# Screen & print body are not in same axis
# Irregular wash of screen frame
# Wrong color recipe

P a g e | 1 0 1
# Insufficient drying of previous color
# Inaccurate composition of fixture
# Improper heat & pressure
# Dirty environment
Auto screen shot
 Faster production
 High color combination
 Immediate drying between two consecutive print
Not suitable for-
Large & complete body print
High density, flock & multiple colour, discharge print.
Manual screen shot
 Generally all types of print are performed
 More time consuming
 Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
HEAT PRESS M/C
 GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print
 Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique
 Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure
Drying
 Hand drying
 Auto drying
It is performed to dry previous color temporally
Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
Curing
Curing is the ultimate drying of print. Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print. Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.

P a g e | 1 0 2

P a g e | 1 0 3
Finishing:
The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for their in tended end use.
Objective of finishing:
 Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc
 Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness , suppleness , fullness, etc.
 Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
 Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame proofing, etc.
 Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
 Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Finishing effects:
 Easy - care
 Crease recovery.
 Dimensional stability.
 Good abrasion resistance.
 Improved tear strength.
 Good sew ability
 Soft or stiff handle.
 Shine or luster
Types of Finishing Section:
Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are –
 Open Finish
 Tube Finish
A. The machine that are used for open line are given bellow –
 Slitting and Dewatering machine.
 Stenter machine
 Compactor machine.
B. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –.
 Dewatering machine
 Dryer
 Compactor machine.

P a g e | 1 0 4
Process flow Chart for Finishing Section:
Finishing
Open Finish Tube Finish
Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing
Stentering Drying
Inspection Compacting
Delivery Inspection
Delivery
Flow chart:
For Peach finish/Brush:
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Sueding/Raising
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting
For Lycra:
Slitting
↓
Heat Setting
↓
Sewing
↓
Drying
↓
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting

P a g e | 1 0 5
Machine Description for Finishing Section:
Dewatering machine:
Feature:
 Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
 Delivered fabric is crease free state
 Before squeezing ballon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle
 It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism
 To impart soft finish to the fabric
Main parts of the machine:
 Squeeze roller (to remove water)
 Stretcher (to control width)
 Over feeding wheels (to control GSM)
 De-twisting device (To deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form)
 Folding device (to deliver the fabric in folded form).
Fig : Fabric path in Dewatering Machine
Working principle of Dewatering:
After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. In dewatering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width. The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.- 35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it.

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Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,
- One for removing water and
- Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.
But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter.
Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase
Slitting machine:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing.
Features of the Machine:
 Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
 To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.
 Delivered fabric in crease free state.
 Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer.
 It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
Machine parts:
1. Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break Wales line.
2. Ring: To help cutting.
3. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting.
4. Plaiting: To plait the fabric.
5. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break Wales line.
Operational parameter:
-Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
-Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).

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Working principle:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.
Dryer:
Functions:
1. To dry the fabric with help of steam
2. To control the shrinkage
3. To prepare for next subsequent process
4. To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension

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1. Heating chamber (2)
2. Blower (8)
3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor
4. Folder
5. Exhaust fan
Heating system: Gas fired.
Utility:
1. Gas (to make fire)
2. Electricity (to rum the machine)
3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)
Working principle of dryer:
After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net .When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.
Setting according to fabric construction:
Fabric type
Speed m/min
Temperature
Over feed speed (%)
Single jersey
15
140
20
Interlock
20 – 22
140
25 – 30
Rib
10
140
15 – 20
T/C P/C Viscose
20 – 23
130
40 – 45
Lacoste
30
140
40 – 45
Collar
20
140
40 – 45
Lycra
17
130
M/C
Origin
Year of mfg
Brand Name
No of Dryer

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Lafer
Taiwan
2003
KS/S
02
 To dry the fabric.
 To control the overfeed system.
 To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
The temp. Of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric –
Shade
Chamber-1
Chamber-2
Light
1200c
1300c
Medium
1350c
1400c
Deep
1500c
1700c
Compactor m/c:
Control Point :
 Water pressure 2.5 lb
 Air pressure 4 lb
 Steam pressure 6 lb
Function:
1. To compact the fabric
2. To control the shrinkage
3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M.
1. Heating chamber
2. Blower (8)
3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,
4. Folder
5. Exhaust fan.
Heating system:Steam
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN OPEN COMPACTOR

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*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.
*Others fabric feed, straight.
Operational parameter:
-Set the temperature at 120 °C (as required)
-Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min).GSM m/c speed.
-Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit.
Raising m/c:
In which process a layer of fibers lifting from the body of the fabric to achieve soft and lofty effect on the surface is called raising.
Brand name
Country
Production / day
Lafer
Germany
2-3 tons
Fabric type
Color
Speed
Over Feed
Temperature
Blanket Pressure
Teflon Pressure
Single jersey
White Color
15-18 15-18
25-30 25-30
90-110 110-120
1.5-2bar
36psi
Pique (s/j,d/j)
White Color
15-18 15-18
30-35 30-35
100 110-120
1.5-2bar
36psi
Lycra s/j
White Color
12-16 12-16
Full over feed
100-110 100- 120
1.5-2bar
36psi
1x1 Rib
White Color
15-20 15-20
20-30 20-30
100 110- 120
1.5-2bar
36psi
2x2 Rib
White Color
12-15 12- 15
25-30 25- 30
100 110- 120
1.5-2bar
36psi
Interlock
White Color
12-16 12-16
Full over feed
100 110- 120
1.5-2bar
36psi

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Main parts:
 Pin roller
 Counter pole roller
 Blower
 Clean roller

SUEDING MACHINE
A sueder is sometimes referred to a s a sander since the machine consists of one or more rolls covered with sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics traveling over these rolls develop a very low pile and the materials surface can be made to feel like suede leather. The hand will depend on the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn and the intensity with which the fabric is worked.
Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will have a softer hand.
Strentering M/C:
Brand name
Country
No of Chamber
No of Burner
Production / day
Platinum
Korea
10
12
10 tons
Important parts:
 Burner (12)
 Suction Fan (12)
 Exhaust air fan (6)
 Over feed roller.
 Chain arrangement.
Function:
 Drying
 Shrinkage control
 Heat setting
 Width control
 Finishing chemical application.
 Loop control
 Moisture control, etc.
Parameters Used For Different Constructed Fabric :
For Polyester Fabric:

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Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed (m/min)
Stretch (%) Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Single Jersey
5 % to 10%
1750C
1550C
14~15
Depend on fabric G.S.M
Single Lacoste
45 % to 50%
1750C
1600C
14~15
Polo Pique
45 % to 50%
1700C
1600C
18~20
For Cotton Fabric:
Fabric Type
Overfeed %
Temperature0C
Speed (m/min)
Stretch (%) Inch
Light
Color
Deep
Color
Single Jersey
60 % to 75%
1650C
1600C
15~17
3~4
Single Lacoste
60 % to 70%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2.5~3.5
Polo Pique
60% to 65%
1650C
1600C
14~15
2~3

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Interlock
60 % to 70%
1700C
1550C
12~14
2
Rib
60 % to 70%
1650C
1500C
12~14
2
N.B:All this data‘s are suitable for this machine only. All this parameters are suitable for. Grey G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finished G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric.
N.B: If fabric is less Redder than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.
 If fabric is less Yellower than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam.
 If fabric is less Bluer than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase steam.
N.B:Polyester rib fabric is finished in tube form. All this data‘s are practiced in mills which may vary with the change of fabric type. The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
Remarks:
The average machineries in this factory are more or less same compared to the other knit dyeing factories but the finishing machineries are very much different from the other factories.

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Garment:

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The garment production processing steps and techniques involved in the manufacturing garments for the large scale of production in industrial basis for business purposes is called garments manufacturing technology.
Organogram of garments department :
Sequence of garments manufacturing process :
Side operation Operation Method
Design / Sketch Manual/Computerized
MD
Director
GM Quality
GM Merchandiser
GM Fabrics
Compliance
Department
Production Manager
Cutting
Manager
Sample Department
Manager
Commercial
Manager
Accounts
Shipping
Department
Communication
Buyer
Development dept.

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Basic Block Manual/Computerized
Working pattern Manual/Computerized
Sample section Sample making Manual
Basic manufacturing difference Manual
Approved sample Manual
Costing Manual
Production pattern Manual/Computerized
Marker making Manual/Computerized
Cutting section Fabric spreading Manual/Computerized
Cutting Manual/Computerized
Numbering Manual
Sorting & bundling Manual
Sewing Manual
Initial inspection Manual
Finishing / Pressing Manual
Final inspection Manual
Packing Manual
Cartooning Manual
Send to buyer Manual
Flow sequence of merchandising section:
Received PDF sheet

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Consumption
Costing
Negotiation with buyer
Order received
Purchase order sheet received
L.C opening
Purchase fabric & accessories
Time and action setting
Approval for bulk production
Related work to production planning
Start bulk production
Inspection
Handover to buyer nominated agents
Work done by Merchandiser:
 Sourcing
 Pricing (CM,C&F,CIF,FOB)
 Order follow up and execution
 Arranging final inspection
 Ensuring on time shipment.
Accessories:
Sewing thread and sew able item
a. Thread
b. Button
c. Main label
d. Size label
e. Care label
f. Velcro (Hook and loop fastener)
g. lace

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Finishing item:
a. Price ticket
b. Hang tag
c. Poly bag
d. Back board
e. Neck board
f. Collar inside
g. Butter fly (Single, Double)
h. Tag pin
i. Tissue paper
j. Draw string and stopper
Flow sequence of sample section is given below:
Receive developed sheet from buyer
Develop the sample
Send the sample to buyer for approval
Approval of sample/comments about the sample (if necessary)
Send pre-production sample to buyer
Start bulk production
Pattern making:
After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when buyer don not give any pattern.
Marker making:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize wastages.
Objects of marker making:
 To reduce cost;

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 To improve the quality of the garments;
 To reduce the cutting time;
 To facilitate large scale production.
CUTTING SECTION
Sequence of spreading and cutting
STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Cutting Section Quality Control:
The step by step process by which we check quality in the Cutting Section.
Quality Inspection for Marker:
 Every parts Measurement check,
Received Finished Fabric
Inspection
Marker making with the aid of CAD
Spreading (Manual or Spreading m/c)
Cutting
Received Pattern from Sample section
Sorting and Numbering
Inspection
Pieces sent to Sewing

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 Calculate the total no. of parts of each Garments,
 Marker length & width determined.
Fabrics Roll spreading Inspection:
 Roll number,
 GSM,
 Shade number,
 No. of lays,
 Ends of Bits
Spreading Quality Control (Defects):
 Table marking,
 Ends,
 Splices or Joints,
 Leaning,
 Tension,
 Counts,
 Remnants,
 Fabrics flaws,
 Marker placing,
During Cutting Quality Control:
 Miss cut,
 Matching plies,
 Ragged Cutting,
 Notches,
 Pattern Check
After Cutting
 100% part Checking.
 Numbering & Bundle Quality Control.
 Reject Panel Replacement.
SEWING SECTION
Sewing:
The process of joining fabric or seam is called Sewing.

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Elements of Sewing:
 Sewing Thread,
 Needle &
 Sewing Machine
Flow-Sequence of Sewing Section:
Cutting fabric load in sewing section
Line plan according to style or design
Marking
Matching according to bundle no.
Sewing according to Garments design or style
Quality inspection during sewing
Quality inspection after sewing
Excess Thread cutting
Remove dirt & dust from Gmts surface
Quality Audit
Send to next process.
Sequence of garment production
Sewing sequence of Jacket:
Contrast joint with the pocket by pressing.

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Pocket rolling
Number matching with body & Pocket
Pocket joint
ZigZag top sin over Pocket
Numbering & gathering back & front pants
Solder joint
Top sin on the solder joint line
Collar make
Chain stitching on collar marking line
Collar Joint
Collar over locked in joining line
Numbering sleeve and body part
Sleeve joins with body
Zigzag top sin on Arm hole
Zipper piping
Side sewing /body sewing by over lock
ZigZagtopsin (side sewing line)
Bottom hem tuck sewing
Tuck bottom hem with body parts
Arm hole tuck
Botton hem top sin Zigzag
Cuff making
Cuff joint
Cuff top sin ZigZag
Zipper joint with body part
Collar tape part joint with zipper side

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Collar taping part join with body part
Zipper top sin
Collar top sin
Label joint with body part
Quality Table
(Arm hole point, sleeve hem, Bottom hem, Top sin, side seam, Thread cutting. Spot etc are inspected)
SEWING SEQUENCE OF T-SHIRT
Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)
Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
Neck rib joins with body pant
Neck top sin
Solder to solder back tip
Size label sewing
Solder to solder back top sin
Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
Sleeve joint with the body part
Side sewing and care label joint
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
Bottom hem sewing
Arm bottom hem joint
Inspection

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Trouser sewing sequence
Number matching back & front pant
Back rise & Front rise joint
Pocket facing joint with pocket part by over lock m/c
Pocket part sewing by over lock m/c
Pocket tracing joint by plain m/c
Top stitch pocket with pocket facing
To sin Zigzag (pocket Rolling)
Pocket marking by catalog & scissor
Number matching pocket & body part
Pocket tuck (2 end side of the pocket)
Pocket joint with the body part
Pocket top sin (ZigZag)
Back & front matching (number)
Side sewing of the trouser
Side top sin (ZigZag )
In side sewing by over lock
Elastic tuck for waist belt
Eye lot at middle point of the belt
Rib tuck sewing for belt
Elastic cutting at size wise
Elastic + Rib (belt) tuck
Belt surfacing

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Belt & body tuck
Belt & body joint
Label joint
Top sin belt joining point
Bottom hem sewing
Dosting cutting &fildeng
Dosting tuck
Supporting tuck on bottom hem & belt top sin
Pocket Eye lot snap button M/C
Inspection
Polo- Shirt sewing sequence
Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing
Collar marking for open stitch
Collar inside open stitch
Collar marking
Collar ¼ top sin
Collar cutting
Band Rolling
Band joint with Collar
Band top sin 1/6
Placket lining
Placket marking
Placket Rolling

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Placket joint
Placket top sin 1/6
Placket Pattern top sin
Placket pattern top sin 1/6
Box Sewing
Pocket Rolling
Pocket iron
Pocket marking
Pocket joint with body
Yoke joint with back part
Yoke ¼ top sin
Back & front part matching number
Solder joint
Solder top sin
Collar marking
Collar & body number matching
Collar joint with body part
Collar top sin in jointing point
Sleeve marking
Sleeve over locked
Sleeve Rolling
Sleeve pair matching
Sleeve & body matching
Sleeve body tuck

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Sleeve joint with body part
Sleeve marking for batch
Sleeve batch joint (left & right side)
Body marking for batch
Batch joint with body part
Label make
Label Iron
Main label joint in back side
Sleeve opening tuck
Body hem sewing
Care label sewing
Side joint
Band tuck
Band tape joint
Band top sin
Sleeve chap tuck
Inspection
Sewing Defects:
 Needle damage,
 Skip stitches,
 Thread Breakages,
 Broken Stitches
 Seam Grin
 Seam Puckering

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 Pleated Seam
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
Line balancing:
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machine according to style and design of garment. It depends of that what type of garment we have to produce. The Objectives of Line Balancing:
Line balancing is a main part of a mass production. These kinds of systems, regardless of being different in details, are workstations in a sequence. Row material is included in the line at the beginning or in the middle. Parts included in the system transfers from one workstation through the other and at the end leaves the system as a completed product. Transfer lines uses manpower very little when compared to assembly lines. The certain properties of Transfer lines are transfer and process of a product automatically through a line.
Objectives that should be gained balancing an assembly line are as follows;
 Regular material flow;
 Maximum usage of man power and machine capacity;
 Minimum process times;
 Minimizing slack times;
 Minimizing workstations;
 Maximum outputs at the desired timed;
 Agreed quality maintenance of the garments;
 Reduce production costs.
Importance of Line Balancing:
The importance of line balancing could be summarized as follows –
 Good line balancing increases the rate of production;
 This is the pre-condition for smooth production;
 Line balancing helps to compare the required machinery with the existing one and make a balance;
 It also helps in the determination of labor requirement;
 Good balancing reduces production time;
 Profit of a factory can be ensured by proper line balancing;
 Proper line balancing ensures optimum production at the agreed quality;
 It reduces faults in the finished products;
 Line balancing helps to know about new machines required for new styles;
 It becomes easier to distribute particular job to each operator;
 It becomes possible to deliver goods at right time at the agreed quality for least costs.

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Steps in Line Balancing:
Now-a-days, Standard Minute Value (SMV) is used as a tool for the line balancing, production control and the estimation of efficiency. In a similar way, the time taken to do a job for making garments like shirt/trouser/blouse/dresses could depend upon a number of factors like –
 The length of the shirt/trouser/blouse/dress;
 The number of stitches per inch;
 The presentation of item;
 The pricing of garments. [8]
Some Images
Image of Piping Ribbon Image of Neck Rib by over lock M/c

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Image of servicing ribbon Image of servicing by over lock M/c
Image of Piping by Over lock M/c Image of Swing Operation
Image of Servicing Image Body Attaching

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Image Neck Joining Image of attaching mobilen tap
Image of Piping by feed of the M/c Image piping by over lock M/c
Image Sleeve Joining Image of Button Attaching
FINISHING SECTION
Flow chart of finishing section:
Garments wash
Loop cutting

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Thread trimming
Alter checking
Stitch others
Button attach
Ironing (In side)
Inspection (inside & outside)
Batch label attach
Final ironing
Joker tag attach
Needle detector check
Size tag attach
Waist belt attach
Hanger attach
Poly packing
Cartooning
Shipment
Sequence Work of Garments Finishing Section Side seam check: After thread sucking then the garments side seam are checked very carefully. If faulty side seams are found, the faulty garment is send to the sewing room. Due to seam pucker or stitch formation, the faulty side seam is occurred in the garments.

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Fig: Side Seam Check spot and remove: When checking the side seam is complete, the garments are checked for spot. If any spot is found in the garments, the spot will remove by chemical using. Fig: Remove the spot by using chemical Spot name and use remove chemical:
Oil spot : : A.D Max
Shing spot : G.R.O
Ink spot, etc. : B.T.S Ironing:

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After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension. Fig: Ironing Hang tag attach: After ironing is done then the sale price or tack packs are attached with the garments. Fig: Attached the tack pack Inspection: It is the last stage of inspection the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing.

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Fig: Final inspection Folding: When the metal free operation is complete then the folding is done. Fig: Folding Packing: After folding the garments then it‘s packed by poly bag. Fig: Packing Cartooning: After completing the packaging process of garments then cartooning is done.

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