1. Extracts from a Journal of Travels in Palestine &c., in 1838; Undertaken for the Illustration
of Biblical Geography
Author(s): Edward Robinson, Martin Dampies, E. Smith
Reviewed work(s):
Source: Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 9 (1839), pp. 295-310
Published by: Blackwell Publishing on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of
British Geographers)
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1797725 .
Accessed: 20/03/2012 15:08
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2. ( 09S )
XII._ EAC{raC&s a .Jo7eralfl1 'trat,clS
from Of ilt Pale.stine &(., in
1838; xwdert.t?en {hDfO7' [11t.(.SF1atos7, Wib7i((.1
of GeafJrclly.
?y tlle ll^X.E. ROBINSVS the Res. E. SA1ITTI.
antl DraBrn
up by the RPY.EDVARD ROBINSON, I).D., PIvfessor of
'rhenlogyin Nelv York.
I. :FRozt'Akabahto Jerusalem,throughthe Mltestern Deseit.
It hael lbeenour intentionto go cTirectly from'Akaballto Wti(li
3VIusa alongthe greatvalleyE1 'Aral}ah;lout circumstances in-
(luceclus to changeour plan; and xve (leterminedto lceepour
good TowoirGi guieles, take the roadacrossthe Great;Vestern
and
l)esert in the directionof GazaandHebron, -arouteas yet un-
trodelen moderntravellers. Besidesour five ToYvara
by Arabs
underthe direction Tuweileb,^sho travelled
of ha(l +^rith
Ruppell,
Laborde, LordLin(lsay, tooktwo Arales the 'AmrAn,
and we of a
tribe livinsr arounel'Al<abah to the S.E. of thatplace, as the
ancl
'I'o^ wele not acquainte(l the routewe proposed follow.
ara with to
We left 'Alvabah in the afternoon April 5th, 1838,and,re-
late of
crcessint, lain of Wadi 'Arabah,began to ascenalthe *vestetn
the
lnountains the grea.tHajj route. We soonencampe(lfor the
l)y
nit,ht;andfromthis point+vehad sevenlong days'journey svith
cawmels Hebron. Tlle ascentsoonbecomessteep alld diicult.
to
The wayis almostliterallystrewedwith the bonesof camels,anel
skirtedlvith the gravesof pilgrims; a11 testifying the difficulty
to
of the pass. On reaching, summit, SOOn out uponthe
the we came
greatplateau the Desert,probably
c)f from12()0to 1SC)O above
feet
the sea, and follnfl ourselveshigher than the mountain-peaks
shich ve had seen fronz below, andthroughsvhiclle ha.l just
ascen(led. Not far fromthe top of the pass,we left the Hajj
route; and,turningoW a direetion
in aboutN.N.W. we launcheel
forthagaininto ;'the greatanelterriblewilderness."
For the firsttwo daysthe generalcharacter this desertwas
of
sinzilar thatbetween(Cairo Suez,-a vastunbounded
to an{l -lain,
a hardgravellysoil, irregular ridges of limestonehills in vflrious
directions, mirage,and especially Wa(lisor +vatercourses.
the the
Our Aral)sgaveto this part of the l)esert the llame Et-TSh, the
I?esert Wandering.The Waclisare here frequent:atfirstthey
of
all rall N.W. into the main watercourse of this part of the Desert,
VVa(li Jerafeh; ^shich, having its head far to the south,rllnsin a
N.E. course to join the ltalley 1 'Arabah nearly opposite to
Mount Hor. We crossedWa(lf Jerafeh about the mi(ldle of
tlle second day, and were struck with the traces of the large
-c)lume watervEich appalentlyflowsthrough in the winter
of it
seasoll. On the morning the thirdday we reacheel ^rater-
of the
shed of the I)esert; afterxvhich the Wadis run in a westelly
all
lirectioll into the great watercoursewhich drains the snore

3. 296 Qc
Dr. ROBINSON'S Travels Patestine,
in [1838.
westernpart of the Desert, and flows down to the sea near E1
nAraish.
Almostfromthe time we enteredupon this vast plain,ws had
beforeus as a landmark,a high conical mountain,apparently
isolated,alon^, western base of which we were to pass. It
the
bears the name 'ArGifen-Nakah; and a lower ridge extends
fromit eastward. For nearly three days this mountainof the
Desert was beforeus. As we approached on the thirdday the
it
country became undulatingand unes7enSand the hills morefre-
quent. I estimated heightof Jebel 'Araifalsovethe plainat
the
about500 feet; it is composed whollyo?limestone,covered with
pel)blesof flint and has no traces of volcanicaction. It forms
the south-western corner or bulwarkof the mountainous region
which extends hence to the northward;antl from it a ridge
stretcheseast, terminatingin a bluS called Makrah,near E1
'Arabahand oppositeMountHor, as we saw, on a subsequent
journey,fromthe passof Nemellah.
The generalelevation the greatplateaucontinues
of nearlythe
same,except where traversedljy the Wadls; and the gradual
ascentto the water-shed not perceptible,
is and can only be dis-
coxtered the courseof the streams the valleys.
by in
To the S.S.Ww Jebel 'Araif is a mountain
of called Ikhrim,
lying l;)etween route and Wadi 'Arxiish,
our and fartherto the
north sawthemountains andEl-Helal. Afterpassing
we Yelek
Jebel 'Araif,our courseturned moretowardsthe N.N.E., an(l
the character the Desert vvas
of changed. On our rightwasnow
a mourltainous district, composedof irregularlimestolleridges,
runnint in directions arld occu)y-ing whole region
*7arious the
quiteto Wadi 'Arabah;as we had aftervvards opportunity
an of
observing. This mountainous districtis penetratedby noneof
the roadswhichlead frotnthe v-icinity the Re(l Sea to Gazaor
of
Jel usalem:but these roadsall fall into the one we weretravelling
beforereachingJebal'Araif;ornot far frojnthatmountain. All
these circumstances to showthatour route csould no otller
go be
thanthe ancient Roman roadfromAilah to Hebronand Jeru-
salem;whichalso, like the present roa(l,couldnot well havebeen
anything morethana caravan routefor beastsof bur(len.
The road passes along the westernside of this mountainous
district,crossingmany broad WAdiswhich flow dowll from it
svestsvard, elevatedridges of table-land
with betweentllem. VVe
ma(le frequentand minuteinquiryafterthe names of placesor
stations which are known to have existed anciently upon this
Romanroad. Of the more southern ones, Rosa and Sypsaria,
we could frld no trace. Early on the fourth day we crosseda
broadWadi called El-Lisan marking perhaps site of ancient
the
T>yssa; we coulddiscover traceof ruins. In the forenoon
13ut no

4. 1838.] Arciif-en-Nclkah Khulasah
B*r Seba. 297
of the fifth (laywe divergeda little to the left, to visitruinswhich
had lJeen described us underthe namesAnJehand'Abdeh,and
to
whichare doubtlesstho remains ancientEboda. They consist
of
of the rralls of a large C>reek church,and an extensive fortress,
l?othsituatedupona long hill or ridgeoverlooking wide plain.
a
Connected withthe fortress cisternsand deep wells walledup
are
with uncommonly good masonry. On the southside of the hill
anallelow are the ruins of houses, surroun(led tracesof es-
by
tenslv-e anclerlt cultlvatlon.
We vere nowcrossinga moresandyportionof the Desert; and
in the afternoon the sameday we had our first specimenof the
of
simoomor southern winelof the Desert. It came over us with
violencelike the glow of :wn oven,filling the air with fineFarticles
of dllst and sand,so as to 013scure the sun an(l renderit difficult
to see objectsonly a few ro(ls distant. We eneampedin Vadl
Rulleibeh wherewe had neYerheard ruins; butn ascendirlg
of on
the hill on our left, we diseovered remains a city not much
the of
less than 2 miles in circuit. The houseshad been mostlybuilt
of hewrlstone; there +vereseveral pulblicbuildingsancl many
cisterns; but the whle is nosv thrownto,ether in unutterable
confusion,as if the city had been suddenlyoverthrown some by
tlemenclous earthqualie. Wllat ancient city this can havel)een,
I hcave yet been able to learn. The Aralic namesuggeststhe
not
Rellolsoth Scripture, name of one of Isaac'ssvells(Gen.
of the
SXVi. 00) bllt the othercircumstances not correspond.
do
VVellOW approache(l more fertile region. Towarflsnoonof
a
t]le Sixth daywe leached Khulasah, the site of ancientElusa. It
was a city of at least 2 miles in circuit. The fountlations of
buil(lings everywhere be traced;andseveral
are to largeunshapen
piles of stollesseem to markthe sites of public edifices. :Erag-
ments of coluluns are occasionallyseerl, but no cisterns. A
ululics-ell, still in use, seemsto havesuppliexl city.
the
After crossinganotherelevatecl plateau, the characterof the
surf.a.ce was againchangeel. We came uponan operlundulating
country all aroundwereswellinghllls,covered or(linary
* in seasons
Witil el8SS and rich pasturage;but now arid antl parched with
drought. We novv came to Wadl Sebl'; antlon the N. si(le of
its Matercoursewe ha(l the gratifieation diseoverin*, rlril
of (A
loth) the site of ancient Beersheba, thc celebratel b(?rder-city
of
P;llestirlestill bearingin Aral)iethe nameof Bir Seba'. Near
the watareourse two eireularwells of fine watern
are morethan
40 feet dLeep.They are surroun(lefl with (lrinking-troughsof
stone for the use of camels and floeks, sueh as weredollbtless
used of olclfor the flc)eksand herdswhieh thersfed orl the ad-
jaeent hills. Aseendingthe highergrounflN. of the wells,we
foundthese low hills strewedwith the ruinsof former habitations,

5. 298 Dr. ROBlNSON'S Travels Palestine,
in NfC.
[ 1838.
the foundations ^shich distinctly be traced. These ruins
of are to
extendovew spacehalf a mile lont,by a quarter a mile hroa(l.
a of
Here then is the spotwhere Abraham Isaacanfl.Jacob
an(l often
live(l! I4ere Samuel maelehis sons judges and from hence
Elijallwandered into the southern
out I)esert,and sat llownunder
the Rethem,or shrubof l;)room, as our Arabssat do+rn
just under
it everydayand everynight! Overthese swellinghills the flocks
of the ?atriarchs roredby thousan(ls; we now foundonly a few
camels,asses,andgoats.
From Eir Seltal to Hebron we tras-elled122 hours, here
equivalentto about 30 miles. The general course was N.E.
by E. After 12 hour we came out ul?ona wide open plain,
coveredwith grass, lzut now parchedwith (lrought. Fielelsof
xvheat barleywere seen all around;andlefore llSwerehills,
and
the beginningof the mountains Judah. At Dhoherlaeh,
of the
first Syrianillage, the hills aroundwere coveredwith mintled
flocks of sheep and goats,and herdsof neat cattle,horses,asses,
and camels,in the true patriarchal style of ancientdays. At this
p]ace our good Towara left us; we took other camels and pro-
ceededto Hebron. Here the pool over which Davidhungup
the assassins Ishbosheth remains,and fixes the site of the
of still
ancient city. The cave of Macphelahcannot well has-ebeen
withinthe city; an(ltherefore presentmosquecannotcoverits
the
site. We coul(lnot but noticethe fertility of the neighbourin^,
valleys,full of corn-fields and s-ineyards yiel(lingthe largest and
finestclustersof all Palestine;and likewisethe rich pasturage of
the hills, overwhich were scatterednumerousflocks anelherels.
w et to a carelessobserver the countrycan only appear steril and
forbi(lding; the limestone
for rockseverywhere comeout uron thc
surface, are strevvn it to SUCh degree,that a morestony
and over a
or rockyrebionis veryrarelyto be seen.
We tookthe directroadto Jerusalem. It is lai(l with stones
in manyplaces,andis doutlessthe ancientroad,whichpatliarchs
and kings of old haveoftentrod; but it is only a pathforbeasts;
no wheels haveeverpassedthere. Tlle distance Jerusalelnis
to
about21 miles,on a course between N.Al-.E. and N.E. by N.
We hurriedonward, reachedthe Holy City at sunset,April
and
14th,just before the closing of the gates con eveningbefore
the
EasterSunday.
II. JERUSALEM. journeyfo Palestinew-as completetl
Our now
and ourresearches and tlavels in Palestine were to begin. In
respectto these we adopte(lfor our futureguidance two fol- the
lowingprinciples) 1. To directour researches
viz., chieflyto those
parts of the countrswhich formertravellershad rlelre-r visite(l;
and 2. To obtain information, far as possible, not frolnthe
as
legends of lnonks and other foreigners,but directly from the

6. itceanonly loave lJelonged tlle bridgehich, accorclil-lg to
to
1838.] f:Iebron-Jerusalem
. 299
natixeAralJs the lanel. We remained
of
weeksin Jerusalem; and afterX7ards at firstmorethanthree.
made
l ointfromwhichto set off on excursions that city the central
country. In the meantime we diligently differentto parts of the
the city, andeven here sa+s- hear(lof cxplore(leverypart (f
or ses-eral things w-hich us
to
at leastwTere new.
On enterinbJerusalemI lvas r,repared,
of manytravellers, find the houses fiom the descril7tions
to miserable, streetsflthy,
the
an(lthe populajion squaliel; in all these respectsI vsras
but
ably (lisappointed. The houses are l)etter ae,ree-
cleaner, than those of Alexandria,Smyrna,or built, ancl the strcets
The hills andvalleyswhich markedthe Collstalltilaople.
aneientcity are still alistinctly different qualtersof the
visil)le.
paeum l}e tracedfromits heaelnearThe valley of the Tyro-
may
at the pool of Siloain. The hills of the ;aSa gate to its foot
Zion,
WIoriah, yet distinctand marked. The Akra, Bezetha, an(l
ale latter,on
tlleancient Temple,is nowoccupledby themosqueofwhichstoo(l
tlleextensive colirtor areaaround 'Omarand
it.
One of the earliestolJjects our attention
of
area, reference its antiquityarl(l
in was naturallythis
to connexion
Temple. It is an elevatedplateauc)rterrace, with the allcient
of a parallelogram, nearlyin the form
supported an(l ^X-ithin
by massivewalls built
upfromthe valleysor lower grourdon all
va11 about60 feet high. The uppel sides. The southern
is
walls olJviously modernorigin;but it part of these external
is of
ceive the lowerportions, the mostis not less easy to pel-
that fol
date. These are composed parta of an earlier
are
generallyof verylarge stones,many
oftllem 20 feet or morein lerlgthby 5 or 6
feet thick,
reculiar manncr. At tlse first siew of these walls, Ihewnin a
suacledl these lover portionshacl
that blt pel-
rl'emple, ls-ereto be referreel
alld l)elongeelto the ancient
back at
llero(l, not to the daysof NTehemi.lh least to the time of
if or
iction afternarllsstrengthene(l ourSolomon. This con-
xYas by
S.v.corner in the westernwall, the discow-ering, tlle
near
of immexlse
an remains,or ratherthe fc)ot,
archn springingout fromthe lvall in tlle cQirection
tOwards MountZion, acrossthe
of the
traces this archare toodistinct (lefinite Tyropeuln. The
of
07alley
antl to lJemistalien; tInd
Josehus, fromthis part of the Temple-area
led
Ziorl; )roving incontestably
thus to the Xystuson
the antiquityof that portionof
tlle
fromwhichit springs.
7all
We then examinedthe remarkable tower in
Yaffagate, which,even to the unpractise(lthe citatlelnear
the
marksantiquity. Someformer
of eye, bearsstrong
this the Hipicus of Hero(l; travellers
as havealreatly
an(l we fountl
regar(led
assenttllis conclusion. So far as we coulel every lOeasotl to
to
(liscover, lower
the

7. 300 Ro ts Qc.
Dr. n I N S ON 'S Trave in Palestine, S38.
[1
at
part the tower is whollysoli(l, as (lescril)e(lby Josephus;
of
least there is no knownor visibleentrance it, eitherfromabove
to
or below. 30()
The presentwalls of the moderncity were built aboutRe-
years as appearsfromnumerous
ago, Arabic inscriptions.
maills the forlner wall, whichprobably
of existed in the time of
thecrusades, are still a-isible the outsi(le, N.W. of the YaSi
on
of the
gate;also on the N. side of the city, and in the interior traces
N.W.corner. Of the ancient wall aroun(llMountZion,
may le seen for somedistance the scarpe(l
yet in rocksbelow the
S.07V. brow of Zion. On the high ground N. of the N.W.
corner the city we discovere(l
of evi(lenttracesof what musthave
in tllis
beenthe thirdor exteriorwall describedl)y Josephus stood
quarter, erectedafter the time of Christ. ISeremust have
to trace
thetowerPsephinos; and fromthis point we were able distance
the foundation the sameancient
of wall fora considerable
further a N.E. direction.
in
Of the second of J()sephus,
wall +hich at the timeof the Cruci-
fisionvTas exterior
the wall of the city on this si(le,we could find
nolemairling traces,unlessit be two squareancienttowerswhich
ve eliscovered connected with the wall insideof the Damascus
gate, one on each side of the gate. These towers are built of
lart,estonesprecisely like thosementioned above as belongingt<)
the ancientTemple walls. They have been much injuredin
ancient,
lluildingthe modernwall of the city, but are evidently
an(lapparently older than Hippicus; they were, mostprobably,
this
the guard-housesof an ancient gate upon this spot; and this
couXlwell onlyhavebelon^,ed the sai(l to secondwall. If
as to
hypothesisbe eorreet,it will go far to deeidethe question then
the site of the ehurchof the Holy Sepulchre,which must eity.
hclvefallen within this w-all,and so within the aneient Akra,
IncleedS churehstandsupon the veryritlt,eof the hill have
the
must
wl:ich,aceording Josephus,and to every
to probability,
the
forlned part of the lower eity, and beell enelosed within
secolo(l wall.
Anotherobjectof our attention the supplyof wateralmost
was in an(l
around the eity. At the present(layJerusalem supplied on
is
wholly by rain-water, preservedin eisternscut in the rock
which houses
the stand. Allnost eery house has one or more
very
cisterns; that in which we residedhad no less than foursame
lar<ge ones. The ancientcity was probablysur)plied the in
be any
nlalinel. Indeed,witha little attention,there can never from
wantof water within the walls. The aqueduet whiehcomes
to the
Solomon'spools beyond Bethlehem brings water only reser-
mosque XOInar.Outside
of of tlle eity,besidesthe ancient
yoirs,thereare wells in ^arious plaees,somewith waterandsome

8. 1838.] Jerusalem_Siloam.
301
without. The brook lQidron, the valleyof Jehosaphat,
in flows
only whenthe rain-water (lescends into it fromthe adjacent hills.
Fountains runningwaterexistonly in this valley; an(lof these
of
thereare three, viz.:-1. the fountain the Virgin or of Siloam,
of
just southof the site of the Temple; 2. the pool of Siloam7 just
withinthe entrallce the Tyropoeum;3. the well of Nehemiall,
of
or of Jol), oppositethe entranceof the valleyof Hinnom. This
last is a deep well of livirlgwater,whichin the rainyseasorl over-
flows: it isabeyon(l(loubt,the En Rogel of Scripture. The pool
of Silcalnis whollyartificial, receives watersfromthe foun-
and its
tain of the Virginrthrougha subterraneous channelcut throut,h
the solid rock. We cra+vlefl through this channeland tneasured
it. The fountain the Virginis also evidently artificial
of an exca-
vation in the rock; but wrhence rateI is (lerivetlis a mys-
the
tery. It has a swe?etish, slightlybrackishtaste; an(l flows irre-
gularly,or only at irregular intervals. We wrere witnesses this
of
irregular flow; andweretol(l by the womenwho camefor water
that sometimes,(luring summer, it ceases to flow for several
weeks; wrhen, a sudden,the watercomesgushingout againin
on
abundance.
Ancient writershave spokenof a fountainof living vvater as
existing under the Temple; though their assertionshave, in
gener.al,obtainedlittle credit. Soon after our arrivalin Jeru-
salem,we were told of a similar fountainun(lerthe mosque of
'Omar, tlle watersof which were used to supplya bath in the
vicinity of the mosque. We went to the bath, an(l foundtwo
men Elrawing water froIna deep well. They told us that tile
water fl()svsinto the well froln a passage cut il] the rock, and
lea(lin>un(lerthe mosque,whereis a chamber a livingfoun-
an(l
tain. In summer,when the water is so low as not to flosvout
intothe well, they go (lowrl bringit out by hanal. The taste
and
of the wateris preciselylike thatof the fountain the Virt,inin
of
the valley helow. Ve madeall our preparations descen(l
to into
the svellanalexaminethe fountain, were hindere(l the time,
but at
analwere unableafterwards resulnethe investigation. Is, per-
to
halls,the waterof this fountain broughtdown by a subterraneous
channelfrom some higherpoint? Is therea connesionbetween
this fountain underthe mosqueandthatin the vallevbelow; ancl
is the irregul.lr
flow of the latterin someway(lependenton this
circumstance? These questionsmay, not improbably, somc at
futuretime, be answered the affirlrlative.
in
When we arrive(lat Jerusalemwar was ragiDgin the north
betweenthe Druses and the forcesof the Pasha; an(l,as if we
wereto havea specimenof all the evils of the Orientalworld,in
a few daysafterour arrival plaguelaroke
the out; at first doult-
fully, then decided]y,th(>ugh miklly. Other travellersleft the

9. voe Dr. RonznsoN's
TscGvelsPelestine,
tn &c. [1848.
city immediately and some+ho wereon theirwaythitherturned
>
leack. We continueel ins-estigations
(lur withoutinterruption;alld
a kind Provielence
preserveel fromthe danger.
us
III. FROAX Jelausalem Gazw Hebror arldWadl Nlvisa
t-o
On returningto Jertlsalell frorllan ?xcursion eight elays
of
to Engeddi and the Dead Seas *ve found the pla,>ue slonsTly
but constantly increasing antlit was rumoured
i that the Gity lvas
soonto he shut up. VVe thelsefore remainedbut a sirlglellay, in
orderto makepreptlratlons ouI longerj}urneyto WadiNlusc'.
bls
NVeset oS, l!/IayJ7th,on llorsesand mules; and,orl lEIay 19th,
the city was shut upsanel none sufferedto go outyWitilOUt first
performlug quarantine ses-en
a of d<ays. Our excursion occupie(l
in all :3 (lays.
Ve madeat first a slight detour,in orderto pass 7ay Beit Jalll,
a Christian village,half an laourNT?V BethleEleln; then
Of and
continuedS.W. across tlle mountains the dilect ancient roa(l
to
kom 3erusalem Eleutheropolis Gaza throvaghregion as
to and a
yet unxtisited moderntraxrellers.At a distanceon our right
by
was the (leepvalleyof Turpentirle called by monksandtravel-
(so
lers), or, as the Arabs nameit in this part, Wadi Surar,which
r;Tns a $. W. directlcxnS it opens out into the great plsn
in 1lntil
lJetweell mountains the Mediterranean. On our left was
the alld
another sirnilarralley, WadiSunnet. The regionis full of ruineel
siJtesand ruinetl desertel axlclsoine partially
villagesy some inha-
titecl; whieh are still foundsexreral
amoIlg aneientnames. On
)v1rright,beyvndVVatll Surar,we eouldsee the hill and ruined
tillage Soha,whiell it hils pleased the monks to assumeas the
ane;ent NIc)din, burial-plaeeof the Maeeabees againstthe
the
EXpl'ESS testimolly of EuseSius and Jerome. We cameat night
t>)Beit Netif a largevillage on a higll part of the ridge between
the two valleysabovementioned.
The nest daywasclesoted a visit to Beit Jibrftl,the aneient
to
Bet)?abrisof Greek alld Ronan wlitelts, whichandits fortress
of
sre haelheald muchfiom the Arabs and to a searchfor the site
7
of anciel1tEleutheropolis. Froln the elevated spot where we
lodgedtthe sheikhof the villat, poinfedout to us severalplaces
still bearing,in Aral)ic, naules colrespondingto tllcir ancient
He7orew appellationsand eelebrater1 Scripture the scerlesof
in as
Samsonts exploitsanalhistory:SUCh xvere Zorah,
Timnath,Sokho,
and others. Fourplaceswsiere pointedout,respecting
also whiel
Euselius and Jerome have specifiedtheir distances Som Eleu-
theropolis, viz., Zolah and Bethshemesh, towards Nicoalis; an(l
Jarmahand Solsho} the wtlyto Jerusalemv Folloring out the
on
specifieddistances along tlle ancientroad,we came directlyupon
Beit Jibrfrlwhielllies among hills betweenthe mountairls and

10. 18 }8.] Beit Jibrz't- G/cl.raHebro12. sos
the plain. I-Iereale the remainsof a large Romanfortressof
immense strength,whichlvas built up a^,ain the time of thein
crusacles:alorlnrl are the tracesof an extensivecity.
it
We had receive(lthe imlzression we lnust look for Eleu-
that
theropolisfurther west upon the plain; antl accordingly turned
oubcoursethat wayto Safiyell, a conspieuous villate, lying on an
isolateelllill. ISere, however,we could {inelno trace of any
ancientsite. We then }roceeded to Gaza; whence, after tsrl)
I>a-s, retulne(lby a different
we route,searchino eliligently the
for
sites of ancientLachish,Gath, alldlevther cities,but fintlin<, none
exceptEglon, on a mountlstrewed^^;ith stones,still calleel'Ajlcin.
Again arriveelat Beit Jibrin, we visitetl several very singtllar
artificialcClverns the vicinity. fEuseliusan(l Jerome lalelltioll
in
also Jeelnaan(l :Nazibas leing distantfrom lileuthelopolis,olle
6 and the othel 7 miles, oll the way to Hebron. These namen
still exist; and, takingthe Hebron route,we found Je(lnato be
just 6 miles from Beit Jibrin. N azil) lies yet a little furtheron
anotherparallel roa(l. This circurnstance seems to decide tEle
i(lentityof Beit Jilarin witll Eleutheropolis. The former the was
ancient :ame; the latter xYaS osed by the Romans.anc:l
iml has
heen since forgotten, in so manyother instances. It is also
as
lemarkablethat those ancientwritersxvhospeak of Eleuthero-
polis do not mentionBetogabris; while thoseho speak of the
latter are silent as to the fortner. Elejoicing this result,xre
in
pursued otlr way to Hclaroll; antl, aftcr a steep an(l toilsome
(scellt on a rielge13etween (leep valleys,we rested for a tirne
two
at TaSilh,the 13ethTaplauall Ju(lcah;
of antl arrivedtatISebron
in alvut 6 hoursfIom Beit Jibrin. I4ere, elismissing Xlule- our
teers, we engaged camels for W;icliMusti from the sheikll of
thc Jehcilin, a Bedal.ri tribe itlhabitingthe territorvS.E. of
liiebron.
Ve haellongbeivreforme(lthe )lan to procee(l vatli Muscito
l}y *vayof the south en(l of the Dead Sea, and so soutllwal(ls
(R OX1t vadi Al tlbah, the hope of being able to solvethe pend-
in
ing question, whetilerthe Jordancoul(leverhaveflowecltllrouCh
this valley to the Gulf of 'Akabah. Here, too, s-e hatl hopefl
.lgain to haYe been tlle first; lJut were anticipateel the by
Countele Bertou,^shoprecetletl 11ythreeol four weeks, an(l
us
w-llom had seen at Jerusalemafter his return. After leing
we
eletained daysat I4ebronn set ofE,
to we WIay 24th, anel,l assint,
in sightof ancientZipilon the left, andXJutta (ancientJutta) on
the right,and nearthe ruinscxf(ScarIllel Alaon,we continuezl
and
acrossan undulatin^, llesertin a S.E. eiirection, came,towarcls
clnd
the close c)f the secontl elay's journey, to the broxX- the steep
of
(lesceni; lea(lingtlo^in the Dea(l Ssea. Tllis elescent in a11
to is not
less than loOO feel;; but here, anal to tlie south,it is dia-i(leal
far
intv twc)pA1'tS 014 oFsets of neally etual heitht: bettleexlthese

11. 304 Dr. ROBIN Tratels Palesttne,
SON'S in Qc. [18.38.
lies a terrace or plain nearly three hours broad, the surface of
which is covered with low ridges and conical hills of soft cha]ky
limestone, xerging into marl. At the foot of the second descent
is a small deserted Turkish fort, in the narrow Wadi Zuweireh
(not Zoar), which leads out to the sea in about half an hour. We
reached the shore not far from the northern end of Usdum, a low,
long mountain ridge, running here from N.N.W. to S.S.E., an(l
giving the same direction to the shore of the sea. This ridge,
Usdum, is, in general, not far from 150 feet high, an(l continues
to run in this direction for two hours to the southern extremity
of the sea, where it trends to tlle S.S.W. for an hour more, and
then terminates. The striking peculiarity of this mountain is,
that the whole body of it is a mass of solid rock-salt; covered
over, indeed, with layers of soft limestone and marl, or the like,
tllrough which the salt often breaks out, and appears on the sides
in precipices, 40 to 50 feet high, and several hundred feet long.
Often also it is broken of in large an(l small pieces, +hich are
strewed like stones along the shore, or fallen doxvnas dCbliS.
The south end of the sea is very shallow, and the shore conti-
nues quite flat for some distance further south; so that there are
traces of its being overflowed by the sea for two or three luiles
south of the water-line, as we saw it. The western si(le of this
southern valley, or ?;hor, is wholly naked of vegetation; but on
the easternside, where streams come down Som the easternmoun-
tains, there is a lusuriant vegetation an(l some tillage. We conti-
nued on the western si(le, along the base of Usdu?l. crossing
several purling rills of transparentwater, flowing from the moun-
tain towardsthe sea, but salt as the saltest brine. Before us, as
we advanced southwardsn appeared a line of cliSs, 50 to 150 feet
high, stretching across the whole broa(l valley, and apparent]y
barring a11further progress. These cliSs are mentionetl by Irby
and AlIangles, who supposed them to be s,and-hills. Bte a)-
proached their western end in 2i hours from the south end of tlle
sea. They proved to l)e of marl, and run off from this point in a
general course S.S.E. across the valley. All along their base are
fountains of brackish water oozing out, an(l forming a tract of
marshy land towards the north. Our route now lay along the
base of these cliSs; and, after resting for a time at a fine gushing
fount2lin, came, in two hours, to the mouth of Wadi Jib, a deep
we
valley coming down from thc south through the cliSs, and showing
the latter to be only an oSset between the lower plain which we
had just crosse(l, and the higher level of the same great valley
further south. The name E1 Ghor is applied to the w-alley be-
tween the Dead Sea and this oSset; further south the wllole of
the broa(l valley is calleel E1 'Arabah, quite to 7Akabah. These
apparent cliSs are not improbably the 'Akrabbim of Scripture.
'lahe Widi 3ib begins far to the south of Mount Hor) beyond

12. ] 838.] El Ghor-Wade Jlb-MountHor Petra. oos
vti(ll Gharandel,an(l flons (lown in a wintlingcoursethrough
the mi(lstof El 'Arabah,draining .all its watersnorthward
of to
the T)eadSea. NVhere enteredWaellJ1b, at its northern
we sicle,
it is half a mile broa(l,withprecipitous banksof chalky earth or
marl, 100 to 150 feet high; and exhibitingtracesof an immensc
olume of waterin the rainyseason,flowingnorthwarlls. It may
l)e recollecte that the xvaters Wa(li Jersifeh, tlle western
(l of in
(lesert,wllich(lrainstlle S.E. )art of that (lesert,faln the south-
to
+srar(l 'Akal:ah,alsoflownorthwards El'Arabah, antlso, of
of into
cvourse, throughW;ixli J1b. Herlce,insteadof the Jor(lanflowing
southwarzls the Gulf of 'AkalJah, fin(l the watclsof the
to wre
elesertfurthersouth than Altabah flowing northwar(ls tlle illtO
I)ead Se. The natureof the countryshows,+^7ithout measure-
ment,that the surfaceof the DeaelSea must be lower than tl-1at
of the Re(l Sea or the Me(literranean.
We continue(lour course up the Wa(li Jlb southwarcls for
severalhours, its banlis l)ecoming gra(lually lower,an(lat length
perluitting to emergefromit. We werenow not far fromthe
us
eastern mountains,nearly opposite the broad Wa(li Ghuveir,
while before us was Mount ISor,lising like a cone irreFularly
truncate(l. We turne(l into these mountainsat some (listance
northof MountHor, in ortlertvo approach Wa(li NIusafromthe
east,throughits celebrate(lanciententrance. A long an(lsteep
ascent the passof Nemellah brouglltus out upon the plateaus
of the porphyry formation; abovewhich are still the hills of scln(l-
stone amongwhich Petra as situated. The entranceto tllis
ancient city, through the long ch(aslll cleft in the san(lstone
or
rock,is trulymagnificent,an(l not less splendidandsurprisingly
beautifulis the vie+v the Khazinah, temple hen in tl1e
of or
oppositerock,as the traveller emergesfromthe western estremity
of the passage. Then followlong rangesof tombs llewnin the
rockysides of the valleyn with ornamental faqalles, a style of
irl
striking though flori(l architecture. What we sought in VVadi
Musa was more the generalimpressionof the whole; since the
detailshavebeen correctly given by the pencil of Labor(le. We
examine(l rhether anyof these excasations
particularly were per-
haps intendellas dwellingsfor the living; but coulflsee no marks
of such (lesign nothingbut habitations the dead,or temples
of
for the gods. There lvas,in(:leed, neeel of their being thus
no
used; for the numerousfoun(lations dvellings show that a
of
largecity of housesbuilt of stoneonce stoo(lin the valley.
We had nearlycomplete(l observations, werepreparing
our arld
soonto set ofT our returnby wayof MountHor, whenthe old
on
sheikhof WA(liMusGi, Abu Zeitun, who cause(lso lnuch (lifE-
culty to Mr. Bankes and his companions 1817, came (lown
ill
uponus witllthirtyarme(l men,deman(ling tril)uteof a thousand
a
piastres forthe pri+-il(?,e visiting his territory. We declined
of

13. 306 Dr. ROBINSON'S Travels Palestine,
in Qc.
[1838.
paymentof eourse; but, after iong and repeatedaltereation, it
GaRne to this result,that, ulllesswe paid this full sum, he woul(l
not suSer us to visit Mount Hor. VVeattempted, nevertheless,
to set of in this direbtion, own she;ilihleading the forward
our
eflmel; lout the hostile party elosed around,an(l sror(ls were
Irawn and lJrandished; which, however, among these A1alJs,
lneansnothingmore thanto malve flourish. As it was in vain
a
fol us to use foree agairAst large a party,*ve deeide(lto set ofF
so
on our returnhy the w-(ywe eame. This took tlle old man lJy
surprise,an(l thssartecl plans. Messengers
his soonfollowe(:l us,
saying ss-emight returnfor tlle half; antl, at last, for nothing.
We replied, that he hal driven us fro3:ll Wadi S1i:isa, ar(l xve
sllouSlnot retuln,but should reporthis eonductat Cairo. The
01(1 manthen camehilrtself, get ourgood-vill, he saiel,
to as whicll
+1YaS wolth more to him than money. WVe thoughtit better to
keep oll our way; anclsufferecl furtherinterruption. It was
no
robably the fear of the PashSof Eg1; alonethat withheldthese
uiscreantsfrom plun(leringus outrigLlt, we afterwards
and re-
ceived complimentsfromthe Arabs in an(l aroun(lLIebronfol
the bol(lnessan(l ad(lress *s-ith
whichwe had extricatetl ourselves
fromthe old sileihh'spower.
T)escellding ass of N emellah,we struck
the across El-'Arabah
in a W.N.W. direction, trasellin^, greaterpart of tlle night
the
In the lmorning reachedWadi Jib, here quite on the western
we
si(le of El-'Arabah, an(l stopped for a time at the fountainE1
VeilJi. Otherfountains occurat intervals alont the valleyat the
fot of the western hills, both rlorth and south of E1 Weibi.
Froin here a path strikesup the westernmoulltain the (lirec-in
tionof LIebroll, whichis usedljythe soutllern Arabs. Our guides
took a more northern- road, leatlingup a very steep pass called
Suftih, overa broadsurface shelvintrockextending
of nearlyfrom
the lJottc)m the top, an elevation l000 or 1200 feet. This is
to of
larolJaluly hill Zephath,afterwards
the ISormah, wherethe Israel-
ites attemptetl ellterPalestine,but were drivenback,and were
to
also attackecl the kingof Arad; Num. xiv. 40, seq.,sxi. 1, seq,
ly
3ucltes i. 17. Solue miles N.X.W. of this pass is a corlieal hill
still lbearillg name of rI'el Ara(l, plobably the site of the
the
a:neXent to^^n. All these eireumstanees me to place the sit?
leatl
OfWadesh the ,reat valleybelow,neal tlle fountainE1 Weibi
in
01 one of the neighbouring s)rirlgs. Here it w-ould nearthe
lJe
13order liclom,olzposite a broacl
of to passage leadingup through
the easteln mountains, antl ill full sight of Mount Hor. That
the Israelifesmust has-e apploacheel P;wlestinethrough Waeli
the
'Aral)ah, a necessary
is conclusioIl the mountainous
frolm eharaeter
of the diStliCt the wsJest this valley, thlougllwhieh no roael
on of
haseverpassed. But no traceof tlle nauleKaelesh to be founcl,
is
ne;therin the valleyl;elownor on the talule land above.

14. 1838w] SufAh-KadesAi-Bethhoron-A*alon. 307
Our furtherway to Hebronled us by the sites of 'Ararah,the
Aroerof Judah; and Melh, whereis a fine well and the tracesof
a town,notimprobably ancientAloladah
the or Malatha. Nearer
to fIelaronwe passedSelnu'ah,perhapsthe Hebrew Sema; and
Yuttah, the ancientSutta, the probablebirthplaceof John the
Baptist,and still a town of some importance. At Hebron we
remained day and a half, being obliged to send for horses to
a
Jerusalem.
We left Hebron againon the ?th of June, taking now a S.W.
course by the large village Diirah,the Adora of Josephus;and
descending mountain E1 Burj,a ruirled
the to castle of whichwe
had heard much, but where we found nothing of antiquity.
Hence we bent our coursenorthward amongthe hills; and pass-
ng again throughJe(lna,resteelfor a time at Terkumieh,the
.
Tricomias formerages, leavingBeit Jibrinon our left. We
of
lodged a second time at Beit Neitif; and the next morningde-
scending N.N.W., we cameto the site of the ancient
in tlle openingof Wa(li Surarinto the }Lulain. Bethshemesh
Here are evident
traces of a large city. From this point we turned our course
N.W. into the plain,in searchof the ancientand long-lostEkron.
After travellingin this direction four hours,we cameto the
for
largevillate 'Akir, an Arabicnamecorresponding the Hebremr
to
Ekron. The situation corresponds tothe accounts Eusebius
also of
andJerome. Nothingof antiquity remairls;
perhapslecausc the
ancienthouses,like the modernhovels,werebuilt, not of stone.,
but of earth.
From Ekron to Ramlell is two hours: here we lodged; and
the next alayproceededto Jerusalem l)y the camel-roacl, whicl
alsois the axlcientJewishand Romanway, over Ludd (Lydda),
Gimzo,Lowerand Upper Bethhoron (nowBeit-Utr), and Jib or
Gibeon. The pass betweenthe two villages of Bethhoron a is
steep and rugge(l ascent of some 1500 feet, up the point of a
ridgebetween deep valleys. It is the ancientroad which the
Romanarmiesascended,and has in several places steps cut in
therock The presentshorter less practicable
and route betweerl
Hamlehand Jerusalem apears not to hanze been in use in the
timeof the Romans. Looking down from Uppe} Bethlloron, a
br<)ad valleyis seen irlthe S.W. issuing fromthe mountainsand
hillsinto the plain; while on the ridge that skirts its S.W. sides
is seen a village calle(lYalonf the Aralic formfor the Hebrew
Ajalon. Here then is proloably s)ot whereJoshuain pursuit
the
ofthe five kings,havingarrived Upper Bethhoron,
at lookedback
toward Gibeon,an(l down upon the valley lefore him, and ut-
tered comman(l: Sun, stan(lthou still on Gileon; and thou,
the (;
Moon in the valleyo? AJalorl" !
We foundJerusalemstill shut up oll account of the plague
VOL. IX.

15. 308 Dr. ROBINSON'S tn Palestine,
Tratels Qc.
[ 1838.
andtherefore
pitched tentin theolive-grove of the citys
our north
before Damascus
the gate. $ * * 8
In other excursionsfromJerusalem,and on our subsequent
journeynorthward Beirutswe nsited the villages and sites of
to
Anothoth, Gibeah,Micmash,and Bethel,all N.E. and N. of the
Holy CityX still bearingin Arabicthe names Anatah,Jeba'
and
MukhmAs, Beit-in. The extensiveruinsof the latterplace,
and
Bethel, lie 45 minutes N.E. of Bireh, just on the rightof the
Nablus road. Farther north we turned aside to Jiftlah, the
Gophna of Josephus; and also to Seilum, the site of ancient
Shiloh, which Josephus also writesSilun. (zkow.) Along the
westernshoreof the Lake of Tiberias,we mademinuteand per-
severinginquiriesafterthe ancientnamesGapernaum, Bethsaida,
and Chorazin;but no trace of them remainsamong tlle Arab
population.If formertravellers heard
have thesenames, must
it
haveheenfrom monks Nazareth their dependents.
the of or
On the vay from$afet to Tyre,nearlytwo hoursN.W. of
Safet,we passed thecrater anextinct
near of volcano;
which was
probal)ly central-point the greatearthquake Jan. 1st,
the of of
1837,by which Safetandthe adjacentvillageswYere
destroyed.
Extractfro7n Letter Professor
a of BERGHAUS.
Potsdamn
iIpril30, ] 8Ss9.
SIR, In accordance former
with communications Professor
from
E. Robinson, NewYork,he willtransmit youthisdayone
of to
of the maps, which the fruits the travels himself his
are of of and
companion, Rev. E. Smith, Arabia};etrzea, theHoly
the in and
Land. I cannot permit opportunitypass without
the to by accom-
panying sketch
this witha fewwords.
In the courseof my life I havehadin myhands many docu-
ments reference geographical, especially
in to and cartographical
objects, from
and themhaveacquired conviction among
the that,
all orientaltravellers thetimeof Niebuhr, prizeis due
since the
to the late lamented iECurokhardt,far as it respects minute
so
attention, to things
even apparently
indifirent, also accuracy
and
in themeasurement bearings angles, in the specifica-
of and and
tionof timeforthe determination distances. This conviction
of
I has-e expressedpubliclyand unreservedly,perhaps, other
in
words, the Memoirs
in accompanying mapsof Asia.
my
Thisw-iew,however, mustnowessentially
I modify, having
after
carefullyexamined Journals Messrs.
the of Robinscyn Smith
and
during theirtravels the peninsula Mount
in of Sinai,
through the
great(lesertEt-Tihs and in Palestine. The obserarations of
these two travellers so full and comprehensive, notes
are their

16. BERGHAUS NewMapofPalestine. SO9
PrOfeSSOr ona
uponthe formand the featuresof the country exact and defi-
so
nite, that the geographer in a situation,on the basis of these
is
specifications, construct special map of the territory,
to a which
mayperhapsleavelittle moreto be desired.
In support of these views,I may refer to the accompanying
sketch-mapof the route of the travellers from'Akabahthrough
the desert Et-Tih to Hebron, which I have constructed,and
which we, ProfessorRobinsonand myself, would commendto
the favourable noticeof the Royal GLeographical Society
ProfessorRobinsonhas placed his journals at my disposal,
and, on my recommendation, prepared
has from theman abstract
in a tabularform, particularly adaptedto serve as a foundation
for the construction the route-maps.
of
You will be able to appreciatethe impatiencewith which I
entereduponthe construction these maps,if you will havethe
of
goodnesstc)call to mirldthat I publisheda few years ago a map
of Sylria, whichwas so fortunateas to meet the approbatiorl of
yourSociety.[Journat, vii. ). 183.] My attention morc
vol. was
especially drawn to the tourfromSAkabah Hebron, lJecause
to
the traxTellers here passed througha real terraincoynita
have
whichis nowfor the first time represented a map. The ori-
on
ginalsketchof this routeis threetimes largerthan the copyhere-
with forwarde(l you. X wouldalso mentionthat severalpoints,
to
the positionof whichwas determinedby Messrs.Rc)binson anel
Smith, are not inserted,becausethey fall without the margirl of
the copy. These points are Jebel Ikhrim, Jebel Yelek, and
Jebel el-EXelal, lying westward the route,and adaptetlto
all of
determinethe course of the Wadi el-'Araish, and its distance
fromthe line of travel.
In my map of SyriaI have assumedHebron to be in long.
35? 12' 25" E. from Greenwich,accordingto the Azimuth o?
Jerusalem,supplieciby Seetzenss veryrough map. (Syristn Me-
moir, 34.) But I find this Azimuthto be erroneous,
p. sinee the
itinerary Messrs.Robinson Smithgivesthe long. of Hebron
of and
at 34? 57' 13" E., a diSerence morethana quarter a degree
of of
Yet I wouldremarkn even this positioncan only be regarded
that
as a first approximation the true longitudeof Elebron,inas-
to
muchas the subsequent routesof the travellers affiord means
the
of corroborating determinatiQu
the from toth 3erusalem and
Ramleh,and, aboveall, fromGaza,whichlies nearlyon the same
parallelwith Hebron,or El-Khulilv
The most inaccurate partof my map of Syria is the topogra-
phical delineation Judex becauseno traYeller
of withinmy reach
had then examined portionof the Holy Landwith the same
this
attention whichBurckhardt bestowell the country of the
had on E.
Jordan,and aroundMount Lebanon. It is thereforeeminently
Y 2

17. 310 BERGHAUS a NewMap Palestine.
Professor on of
credit&le the partof Messrs.
on Robinson Smith, respect
and in
te}:13iblical
geography, theyhavevisitedandinvestigated
that the
territc)y Judeain all directionsthislandof the earliest all
of of
history the nations Christian
for cxf civilization.In thiszay tlley
llavebecome fliscoverersthefieldof topography history.
real in and
Theirexaminationextends the wholecountry
over between the
shores the Mediterranean the DeadSea,fromthe parallel
of an(l
of aboutNablus to the southend of tlle AsphalticLale, andfrom
th(?se
points,on the one hand southwards far as to w adl Miisa,
as
anl on the othernorthwards far as to Safed,Saide,andBeiit.
asX
On tlle WIount Olives,Professor
of Robinson determined thc
lengthof a baseof 142o72 yards,by meansof whichn the and
application theirverynumerous
of bearings, havebeenalule
I to
construct calculate rletof triangles,
and a extending to Taii-
N.
beh, E. to the Dead Sea, S. (as yet) as far as to the Frank
Mountain, which mayproleably altleto carry as fal
and we be on
as to theregioll Raluleh Gaza, perhaps to Hel)ron,
of and and also
Carmel, 'Ain Jiddi. I finel distance
and the between Mol1rtt
the
of Olivesan(lthe N.W. corner the DeadSeato be 29()93
of 5
yaralsd 44 34 geographical
or miles. At 'ASin J;(l(litheymea-
sureda second basc,in orderto determine lareadth the
the of
DeadSea. This I find to be 139531 yar(ls, 7 86 geogra-
or
phical nziles.
I havealreaelyconstructeel a ?ortionf the itineraries Ju(leaR
in
on a scale threetimes,and in solrle parts times,
six lar*,er
than
thatof the accompanying sketchmap. Tllis was necessarys in
order exhibit full all the details.
to in
I am of opinion it wouldbe a greatlossfor geographvy,
that
werethematerials collected MessrsRobinson ,Smith
by and not
to be usedfortheconstruction a lnapon a largescale. Their
of
30urney, undelstaken forthe interests Bilolical
solely of geogIapha,
wouldbe deprived its finestfruits,and the manyhardships
of
theymusthaveendureel havebeel1 a measure
will ill supelfluous,
shoulel resultsof their measuremersts observations
the anal be
published in the formof a journal;foz this can neverpro-
onl)7
duce the livelyimpression is felt in looliing a goodand
that at
accurate map,ar;dthis greatdesideratumhope sholtlyto take
I
ln hantl.
Ix1conclusion, would
I remark, to the accompaLnying
as route-
map from'Akabah Hebrons tlle direction the Wadis
to that of
betweenBirsheta Hebron perhaps
and may requiresomeslight
correction,
whenall the itineraries the travellers
Of shall l1tave
beenfullyconstructed.
I hawre honour be, 8cc.
the to
HEINRICH
BERGICAUS3
For.Hoxl.
Mem. G.S. f)fIJondon.
P?.
TvCatatnWEbs7zington,Secrefary.
R.N,

18. l s
t
t t
> x i- f
t t 5 $5X
eg s
.
i

19. act t 4

20. b
,t
>
4 0
*Ut
'
. , .
l" a
X
,_$S ',;
*_'t X
; cn
.t A.!
_iS
b , -
v '''
il/S