I was doing my usual stint at Internet research recently and found an interesting article about grass fed beef tenderness and its relationship to tasty beef.Meat Tenderness , by Richard J. Epley of University of Minnesota Extension.While I earlier had found an article from the University of Missouri, where studies of grass-fed and corn-fed beef (Martz) showed no real differences of when processed using methods to increase tenderness on both types of beef. Simply put, corn fed beef will result in more fat on a carcass which will allow it to be processed and prepared faster. The loss is in the taste. Corn fed (IMHO) has little to no taste compared with grass-fed.
1. How to make sure your grass fed beef is
tender - process it right.
I was doing my usual stint at Internet research
recently and found an interesting article about
grass fed beef tenderness and its relationship to
tasty beef.
Meat Tenderness, by Richard J. Epley of
University of Minnesota Extension.
While I earlier had found an article from the
University of Missouri, where studies of grass-fed
and corn-fed beef (Martz) showed no real
differences of when processed using methods to
increase tenderness on both types of beef. Simply
put, corn fed beef will result in more fat on a
carcass which will allow it to be processed and prepared faster. The loss is in the taste. Corn
fed (IMHO) has little to no taste compared with grass-fed.
Now the disclaimer I have to make right off is that there are differences from farm to farm and
from season to season. The idea is that you find a variety of beef which you are happy with and
then stick with that producer and processor. As you know your farmer, you'll know your food.
To explain this, let's use the Minnesota article as a base to develop a checklist:
Genetics
Per University of Minnesota (UMN), 45% of the tenderness is in the genes. While they talk
about purchasing "Mystery" beef cuts at a supermarket (because you don't know where they
came from or how they were raised) - you'll get varying tenderness because of the wide variety
of genetics out there. When Continental cattle breeds are crossed with African breeds,
toughness becomes an issue in their offspring (see linked study).
While we have started with some "mutt" Angus crosses, Worstell Farms has worked to
improve this by directly crossing Galloway into this mix. So we have the larger size of the
Angus along with the inherently higher-quality Galloway genes. The result is a medium-
framed animal which matures quickly on just grass and a mixed pasture forage program. The
Galloway breed is known for producing a particular genetic variant which enables them to
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2. more quickly tenderize under refrigerated aging conditions.
While some of our cows have more Hereford in their background, several also have some
Brahmin traits, as noted by their physique. And as we sample most of the beef leaving this
farm, we've found no real difference to date, nor has our customers.
Species and Age
Basically, younger is better. This is why veal is so noted. However, the production demands of
a farm say to raise a beef until it's fully grown in order to make the most beef. Corn fed beef is
sold by weight. When they get enough fat on them, they are shipped. We used to raise cattle
this way and it only took about 16 months to get to marketable weight. Grass fed beef will get
to full size in 20-22 months, that's steers anyway. Heifers (females) will get to full size in
about 3 years. The older the animal, the tougher they get. This is due to the connective tissue
(gristle). And is why older cows are usually processed as hamburger in order to bypass that
problem. (Think of it as mechanical tenderizing, much as Swiss steaks are prepared.)
Feeding
As this article points out, what they are fed doesn't make that much difference. Grass fed beef
has higher CLA's, which is gotten from the oils on the grass they are eating. Higher CLA's or
Omega 3/6 ratio makes the beef better for your heart (per some studies), but this doesn't
affect tenderness. (And cattle fed GMO corn gives you more a mystery of what's in that beef
and what it will do to/for you.)
Muscle to Muscle
The more a cow uses that muscle, the tougher it gets. So muscles off their legs or related
muscle groups will be inherently tougher than muscles around the spine, which are used for
support, "...the tenderloin provides a support function in the animal and therefore has less
connective tissue." So what cut you buy will determine it's tenderness considerably.
Suspension of Carcass
Cattle are hung by their hind legs, generally. So this puts more tension on certain muscle
groups and they tenderize less in the aging process. Again, this doesn't affect the tenderloin,
which is why it's called that. Some plants use pelvic suspension, but this is rare, due to
necessary changes in plant layout and cutting procedures.
Chilling Rate
The carcass is chilled immediately after slaughter to prevent spoilage. If the carcass
is chilled too rapidly, the result is "cold shortening" and subsequent toughness.
Cold shortening occurs when the muscle is chilled to less than 60°F before the
completion of rigor mortis. If the carcass is frozen before completion of rigor
mortis, the result is "thaw rigor" and subsequently extremely tough meat.
The article goes on to say that beef well-covered in fat resists this cooling problem. This is a
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3. point to watch out for with grass-fed beef, as it has less of a fat covering. While we've had no
problems with any beef we've processed due to this, it opened our eyes as well to what can
possibly happen in some of these mass-production facilities. We use only local processors and
so verify this on every plant we use.
Aging
This is the most controversial areas. It is subject to opinion. And as such, we disagree with this
article at that point. The longer it is hung, the more it ages. The muscle tissues break down.
However, this also increases the chance and amount of spoilage which can/will occur. While
most depends on the cleanliness of the room itself, the beef can absorb odors from
surrounding material and can also be affected by mold which grows at 35-degrees. While any
affected areas can be cut off, this loss also doesn't guarantee that it didn't absorb some odor
(which affects taste) from that situation.
Most of the lockers we use agree on 7-10 days to age beef. Some people prefer 3 weeks aging.
One processor told us that in order to prevent mold, they spray the older carcasses with a ph-
lowering enzyme spray, but this then simply slows down the natural process of aging.
So tenderness is more how it is raised than how long it hangs - unless you don't mind a wider
variance in taste.
Quality Grade
In the late 70's the USDA changed grading to align with the majority of the beef being corn-
finished. So they added characteristics of intramuscular fat into their grading process.
Marbling, the visible specks of fat in the lean, also is a factor used in determining
the USDA quality grade. However, information in the last decade indicates that
marbling exerts only a small influence on tenderness of meat, primarily by acting
as a lubricant during chewing.
The fat enables faster cooking and higher temperatures - so you can have a medium-rare with
a crispy exterior if you want it. Grass fed beef is cooked at lower temperatures and (as is
common with most beef) is better prepared by marinading for hours beforehand or overnight.
Some prefer to cook their beef in crock-pots to preserve the nutrients (as you'll find on many
recipes for this site.)
Mechanical
As mentioned above, when you grind beef, you are eliminating the connective tissue problem.
Steak is often cubed, which is pulverizing it with small blades. Swiss steak is run through a
tenderizer, which in your home is a small hammer with a pointed surface. Same result.
As well, when you cut your beef into small pieces and cook them, this also then satisfies this
scene. More heat (and any surrounding juices) can enter the beef to soften the connective
tissue. As well, the beef flavor enters the stew to enhance the other vegetables, etc.
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4. Chemical
Salt is a chemical that at certain concentrations increases the tenderness of meat.
The presence of salt is one of the reasons that cured meats such as ham are more
tender than uncured meats. Salt apparently exerts its influence on tenderness by
softening the connective tissue protein, collagen, into a more tender form.
There are a number of vegetable enzymes such as papain (papaya), bromelin
(pineapple), and ficin (fig) used to tenderize meat both commercially and in the
home. These tenderizers can be applied either in liquid form or in powder form.
Their primary effect is to dissolve or degrade the connective tissues collagen and
elastin. The limitation of vegetable enzymes is that their action is sometimes
restricted to the surface of meat. Also, on occasion, they can impart a characteristic
"tenderized" flavor to meat.
So that steak you eat in a fancy restaurant may only "taste" tenderized. The last one I ate
certainly wasn't inherently tender - and the taste didn't last past the thin layer of spices on the
surface...
Marinading
Marinading is a way consumers can improve tenderness and add taste variety to
the meat component of meals. The basic ingredients of a marinade include salt (or
soy sauce), acid (vinegar, lemon, Italian salad dressing, or soy sauce), and enzymes
(papain, bromelin, ficin, or fresh gingerroot). Some marinade recipes call for
addition of an alcohol source (wine or brandy) for flavor. The addition of several
tablespoonfuls of olive oil will seal the surfaces from the air and thus result in the
meat staying fresher and brighter in color for a longer period of time. The
tenderizing action of marinades occurs through the softening of collagen by the
salt, the increased water uptake, and the hydrolysis and breakage of the cross links
of the connective tissue by the acids and alcohols.
You'll also note that prime barbecue recipes call for marinading the beef, as well as constantly
basting them with a sauce that usually has salt, lemon, vinegar, and alcohol in it. This article
recommends marinading for 4-8 hours in a refrigerated earthenware dish before cooking.
Freezing
Freezing rate plays a small role in tenderness. When meat is frozen very quickly,
small ice crystals form; when meat is frozen slowly, large ice crystals are formed.
While the formation of large crystals may serve to disrupt components of the
muscle fibers in meat and thereby increase tenderness very slightly, the large ice
crystals result in an increased loss of juices upon thawing. This increase in loss of
juices results in meat that is less juicy upon cooking and therefore usually is
perceived as being less tender.
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5. Thawing
Thawing meat slowly in the refrigerator generally results in greater tenderness
compared with cooking from the frozen state. Slow thawing minimizes the
toughening effect from cold shortening (when present) and reduces the amount of
moisture loss. Thawing in a microwave is accomplished by using a lower power
setting or by manually alternating cooking and standing times. During the standing
time, some of the heat from the thawed areas moves toward the frozen area.
Cooking
The summation here is to cook according to where that cut came from. Don't expect a rump
roast to cook like a tenderloin.
As cooking progresses, the contractile proteins in meat become less tender, and the
major connective tissue protein (collagen) becomes more tender. Thus, for cuts
that are low in connective tissue—such as steaks and chops from the rib and loin—
the recommended method of cooking is dry heat, including pan frying, broiling,
roasting, or barbecuing...
For cuts with a high amount of connective tissue—such as those from the fore
shank, heel of round, and chuck—the recommended method of cooking is long and
slow at low temperatures using moist heat such as braising. The application of
moist heat for a long time at low temperatures (275-325°F) results in conversion of
tough collagen into tender gelatin and makes this type of cut more tender
compared with dry heat cooking of one of the less tender cuts of meat.
Degree of doneness significantly affects tenderness. As the lean is heated, the
contractile proteins toughen and moisture is lost. Both decrease tenderness.
Tender cuts of meat cooked to a rare degree of doneness (140°F) are more tender
than when cooked to medium (155°F), and medium in turn is more tender than
well-done (170°F).
Now, as covered on this site in various places, you don't cook lean beef (grass-fed) like fatty
beef (corn-fed). It will dry out and won't become tender. I included the above remarks to
explain how cooking can additionally make the beef more tender.
Get your crock-pot going for those less tender cuts and cook shorter and cooler in general.
This doesn't mean you get below temperatures the USDA recommends to kill any unwanted
bacteria. But read up on cooking grass fed beef. Use the recipes on this site to start with.
Develop and expand your culinary skills to include the wide varieties of cuts and finishes
which grass-fed beef enables.
Carving
Finally, this even surprised me. When you cut cross wise to the connective tissue, you are
mechanically tenderizing your beef even further as you serve it. Ever wonder why roast beef is
cut so thin?
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6. When cuts are made from carcasses and wholesale cuts, the normal procedure is to
cut at right angles to the length of the muscle. This procedure severs the maximum
amount of connective tissue and distributes the bone more evenly among all cuts in
that area. Likewise, consumers should carve cooked meat at right angles to the
length of the muscle fibers or "against the grain" to achieve maximum tenderness.
Summary
And now, there you have it. A fairly complete layout of what it really takes to serve up tasty
and tender beef for your family or guests. This has been quite an education for me, and I hope
to share this more broadly with others.
Feel free to do your own research. Check out the original UMN article for yourself. Study up
on the various cuts, cooking procedures, and carving methods. Ask your farmer where your
beef is processed and then call them to find the methods they use.
Again: know your farmer, know your processor, and you'll know your food.
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For more data on raising pasture fed beef, as well as other information on prime beef as
health food – visit http://worstellfarms.com
Visit http://worstellfarms.com for more information.
7. About Worstell Farms
Our family goes back on both sides with
farmers. As far as we can trace.
And that tradition came to Mexico,
Missouri around 1960 to purchase the
current farming operation.
Jim and Laura Worstell established a
working farm there and then, and raised a
big family of 8 kids, along with several
dogs, cats, and an occasional pet squirrel
or raccoon. And don't forget the llama's
and peacocks...
In 2000, Robert Worstell returned to the
farm to take over operations management
(as well as the day-to-day chores) and
shares these duties with his mother and sister (well, not the chores, so much.)
On approximately 250 acres of land, which is mixed hillsides, bottom, and woods, we raise a
combination of annual row-crops and also our beef. Typical of this area, we have marginal
land which is better suited to cattle than cultivation (which is typical of most cattle-farming).
We've found that where we run our cattle actually improves the soil and its health - as long as
we pay attention and actually manage how long and when they graze where. As we continue to
study and learn about and from our cattle, our daily lessons help us to improve the quality and
quantity of beef we raise.We practice managed grazing and are transitioning over to ultra-
high-density stocking, as this is even better for the land and actually requires more cattle per
acre to keep up with the lush growth and pasture renovation.
All our beef is from local stock. Mostly black Angus cross-bred cows, with our current Belted
Galloway bull named "Gene Autry" is servicing these well.
Ordering Our Beef
We only take local orders, so contact us via the website or call directly. Due to Federal laws,
we cannot sell our beef out of Missouri – you'll have to buy it here. Generally, our beef is
spoken for well before it's ready for processing. However, contact us for what we have coming
up and we can give you an estimate on when the next one is coming available.
We are also offering La Cense beef, which is USDA inspected and can be shipped anywhere
in the US. Please see http://worstellfarms.com for details.
Visit http://worstellfarms.com for more information.
8. Related Articles from the Worstell Farms Web Site:
• Worstell Farms – Finest Missouri Grass Fed Beef
• Raising Missouri Pasture-Fed Beef
• What's All-Natural, Humane, Pasture-Raised?
• How does a Beef Ranch Stay in Business?
• Why our Missouri prime beef is striped...
• Missouri Beef: Heathy is as Healthy Eats
• What are "CLA's" and "Omega 3 and 6's"?!?
• How Missouri Beef is Your Best Health Food
• Missouri Grass Fed Meat For You to Buy
• The Surprising Taste of Grass Fed Meat
• Dry Aged Vs. Wet Aged
• What are the beef cuts?
About the Author:
Dr. Robert Worstell retired from a corporate career in graphic design to the much calmer and
healthier American Midwest, to inherit running the family farm. His constant work and
research has been to improve the sustainability of this Missouri “beef ranch”. The results show
that grass fed beef, locally and directly marketed is the route to profitability, not following
commodity trends.
Dr. Worstell's training in web design has helped him move the operation more online, as well
as giving him new networking opportunities to promote Worstell Farms beef products. He is
also a prolific author and has recently completed research into the all-time best self help
books, with his “Freedom Is – (period).” Out of the 7 books published this year, he's also
produced a fiction work, “The Dreamer Dreamed” - itself a breakthrough use of fiction to
explore the metaphysical aspect of dream meaning. All of these are available at
http://midwestjournalpress.com
Dr. Worstell may be contacted through his several blogs and websites for interviews and
appearances.
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