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PresentationPresentation
onon
Garment and garmentGarment and garment
defectsdefects
By Muhammad Zubair
IntroductionIntroduction
ofof
Knitted and Woven Garment StylesKnitted and Woven Garment Styles
Garment Styles IntroductionGarment Styles Introduction
Styles for Tops.Styles for Tops.
•• Crew neckCrew neck
•• V neckV neck
•• Mock neckMock neck
•• Turtle neckTurtle neck
•• Base ball crewBase ball crew
•• PoloPolo
•• RugbyRugby
•• HenleyHenley
•• HooderHooder
Styles for bottomsStyles for bottoms
•• MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant
•• KidsKids ¾¾ pantpant
•• Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant
•• MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda
••
Crew neckCrew neck
V neckV neck
Mock neckMock neck
Turtle neckTurtle neck
Base ball crewBase ball crew
Polo ShirtPolo Shirt
RugbyRugby
HenleyHenley
HooderHooder
Hooder
MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant
KidsKids ¾¾ pantpant
Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant
MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda
Flow Chart of Textile IndustryFlow Chart of Textile Industry
Fabric
Cutting
Finishing
Sewing
Packing
Dyeing
QualityQuality
““ To make garment according to buyersTo make garment according to buyers
requirement.requirement. ””
Make garments free of any defects.Make garments free of any defects.
Keep garment measurements according to buyerKeep garment measurements according to buyer’’s requirement.s requirement.
Make garment aesthetically goodMake garment aesthetically good..
FabricFabric
used in Garmentsused in Garments
Knitted fabricKnitted fabric
Woven fabricWoven fabric
Wale
“Columns of knitted loops
along the length of fabric”
Unit: Wales / cm
Knitted fabric:Knitted fabric:
•• CourseCourse
““Rows of knitted loopsRows of knitted loops
across the width of fabricacross the width of fabric””
Unit: Course / cmUnit: Course / cm
Main Knitted fabric typesMain Knitted fabric types
•• JerseyJersey
•• RibRib
•• InterlockInterlock
•• PiquePique
•• FleeceFleece
Woven fabric:Woven fabric: weaving is the process of interlacingweaving is the process of interlacing
two or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woventwo or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woven
fabicfabic..
The yarn whichThe yarn which
run in the lengthrun in the length
wise direction arewise direction are
called warp (End)called warp (End)
.While those.While those
which run crosswhich run cross
wise are calledwise are called
Filling or weftFilling or weft
(Pick).(Pick).
Main woven fabric typesMain woven fabric types
•• PlainPlain
•• TwillTwill
•• SatinSatin
•• CanvasCanvas
Cutting ProcessCutting Process
Contents of cutting processContents of cutting process
•• Introduction of patternsIntroduction of patterns
•• Understanding of lay plans and consumptionUnderstanding of lay plans and consumption
•• Spreading TechniquesSpreading Techniques
•• cutting techniques and equipmentcutting techniques and equipment
Cutting Flow chartCutting Flow chart
Fabric
receiving
Trim sheet
making
(roll to roll)
Mock ups
verification
Lot to lot
Continuity shade
cards making
Lot to lot
Cutting plans
gives to master
Lay spreading
Specs &
consumption
Random cutting
audit
Bundling
In house
embellishments
100 % cut
panel audit
Induction in
Sewing
commercial
embellishments
Re bundling
Automatic SpreadingAutomatic Spreading
Cutting TechniquesCutting Techniques
Automatic CutterAutomatic Cutter
SewingSewing
Sewing IntroductionSewing Introduction
•• Sewing needlesSewing needles
•• Stitch types & their characteristicsStitch types & their characteristics
•• Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
Sewing Machine TypesSewing Machine Types
•• Single needle lock stitch machineSingle needle lock stitch machine
•• Double needle lock stitch machineDouble needle lock stitch machine
•• Three thread over lock machineThree thread over lock machine
•• Four thread over lock machineFour thread over lock machine
•• Flat lock machineFlat lock machine
•• Buttonhole making machineButtonhole making machine
•• Button attach machineButton attach machine
•• Bar tack machine.Bar tack machine.
LockLock--Stitch MachineStitch Machine
OverOver--lock Machinelock Machine
FlatFlat--Lock MachineLock Machine
Buttonhole machineButtonhole machine
Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
Button attach machineButton attach machine
Sewing machine typesSewing machine types
Packing inspectionPacking inspection
Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection
Packing inspection is an important part of qualityPacking inspection is an important part of quality
assurance system.assurance system.
Packing indicates how many product will be shippedPacking indicates how many product will be shipped
together in the same box or container.together in the same box or container.
Some critical buyerSome critical buyer’’s have very specific requirement fors have very specific requirement for
packaging because of their automation systems and thepackaging because of their automation systems and the
number of items that are processed on a daily basis.number of items that are processed on a daily basis.
Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection
For exampleFor example
Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion ofSome buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of
carton or side portion of carton according to ware housecarton or side portion of carton according to ware house
requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong orrequirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or
unreadable barcode stickers.unreadable barcode stickers.
Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
The following are the inspection points for garmentThe following are the inspection points for garment
presentation.presentation.
Garment balancingGarment balancing
a) Even shouldersa) Even shoulders
b) Even sleevesb) Even sleeves
c) Even armholesc) Even armholes
d) Even Under armsd) Even Under arms
e) Even sidese) Even sides
f ) Even sleeve / cuff openingf ) Even sleeve / cuff opening
g) Even side ventsg) Even side vents
Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection
Garment pressingGarment pressing
a) No wrinklesa) No wrinkles
b) No iron marksb) No iron marks
c) No press folding marksc) No press folding marks
Garment shapeGarment shape
a) Even neck / collar shapea) Even neck / collar shape
b) Even arm hole shapeb) Even arm hole shape
c) even back moon shapec) even back moon shape
d) Even hem bottom shaped) Even hem bottom shape
Final inspectionFinal inspection
•• Check packingCheck packing
•• Choose samplesChoose samples
•• Check against style sheetCheck against style sheet
•• Check against approvalsCheck against approvals
•• Check garment QualityCheck garment Quality
•• Check garment measurements.Check garment measurements.
•• Make inspection report.Make inspection report.
AQL INTRODUCTIONAQL INTRODUCTION
AQL INTRODUCTIONAQL INTRODUCTION
AQL introductionAQL introduction
AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.
AQL charts containsAQL charts contains
1) Lot size1) Lot size
2) Sample size2) Sample size
3) Acceptance / Rejection Level3) Acceptance / Rejection Level
AQL 0.065
Tighter
2.5
AQL 6.5
Easier
AQL introductionAQL introduction
AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.
1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection.1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection.
2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.
3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment is pass.is pass.
4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is fail.fail.
Sample size for a given lot size will change with the change ofSample size for a given lot size will change with the change of levels. Thelevels. The
acceptance and rejection levels will also change according to leacceptance and rejection levels will also change according to levels.vels.
The AQL levels for inThe AQL levels for in--line, during production and final inspections forline, during production and final inspections for
different buyers can be different.different buyers can be different.
Types of DefectsTypes of Defects
A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects
B.B. Knitting and Weaving DefectsKnitting and Weaving Defects
C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects
D.D. Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects
E.E. Trims DefectsTrims Defects
F.F. Stitching DefectsStitching Defects
A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects
•• Fluff / ContaminationFluff / Contamination
•• KnotKnot
•• Yarn Variation / BarreYarn Variation / Barre
•• Contrast SeedsContrast Seeds
•• HairinessHairiness
FluffFluff
contaminationcontamination
KnotKnot
Yarn variation / Yarn band.Yarn variation / Yarn band.
104.104. Trash / Contrast seedsTrash / Contrast seeds
105.105. HairinessHairiness
B.B. Knitting and weaving DefectsKnitting and weaving Defects
•• HoleHole
•• Fabric / Needle RunFabric / Needle Run
•• Incorrect Fabric WeightIncorrect Fabric Weight
•• Stop markStop mark
•• MisMis pickpick
•• Loose endLoose end
HoleHole
Fabric/ Needle runFabric/ Needle run
Incorrect fabric weightIncorrect fabric weight
460 GSM
(Approved)
160 GSM
(Reject)
Stop markStop mark
MisMis pickpick
Loose endLoose end
C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects
•• Color ShadingColor Shading
•• Dye / Finishing streaks / creasesDye / Finishing streaks / creases
•• Shade patchesShade patches
•• PillingPilling
•• Yellowing of white fabricYellowing of white fabric
Color shadingColor shading
Approved Reject
Dyeing or finishing streaksDyeing or finishing streaks
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing
.. Shade patches / Uneven dyingShade patches / Uneven dying
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing
116 .116 . Calendar lineCalendar line
Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing
117 .117 . PillingPilling
Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects
Unraveling embellishmentUnraveling embellishment
Peeling EmbellishmentPeeling Embellishment
Cracking EmbellishmentCracking Embellishment
Poor coveragePoor coverage
Approved
Reject
Incorrect color shadeIncorrect color shade
EmbellishmentEmbellishment
Approved Reject
Incorrect size EmbellishmentIncorrect size Embellishment
Approved
Reject
Incorrect placement ofIncorrect placement of
EmbellishmentEmbellishment
Approved
Reject
Untrimmed thread EmbroideryUntrimmed thread Embroidery
Hoop Pleat MarksHoop Pleat Marks
Embellishment MissingEmbellishment Missing
Embellishment not as specifiedEmbellishment not as specified
Approved
Reject
Trims defectsTrims defects
Missing trimMissing trim
Insecure trimInsecure trim
Broken trimBroken trim
Inoperable trimInoperable trim
Incorrect color / shade / Code trimIncorrect color / shade / Code trim
Incorrect size trimIncorrect size trim
Trim not as specifiedTrim not as specified
Misaligned trimMisaligned trim
Illegible trimIllegible trim
Incorrect placement of trimIncorrect placement of trim
Sewing DefectsSewing Defects
DamagesDamages
•• Broken stitchesBroken stitches
•• Skip stitchSkip stitch
•• Open seamOpen seam
•• Needle holeNeedle hole
•• Needle chewNeedle chew
•• Poor reworkPoor rework
Sewing defectsSewing defects
ConstructionConstruction
Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck
Crooked collarCrooked collar
High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point
High / Low placketHigh / Low placket
Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket
Exposed underExposed under--placketplacket
Pleat / Hole at placket boxPleat / Hole at placket box
High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Raw edgesRaw edges
Overrun stitchOverrun stitch
Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings
Incorrect tension / GrainingIncorrect tension / Graining
Uneven stitchingUneven stitching
PuckeringPuckering
PleatPleat
MisalignmentMisalignment
OverlappingOverlapping
RopingRoping
Sewing problemsSewing problems
NegligenceNegligence
Strip mismatchingStrip mismatching
Uneven hemUneven hem
Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count
Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance
Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component
Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination
Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads
Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified
Sewing problemsSewing problems
FabricFabric
Twisted garmentTwisted garment
Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used
Shading within garmentShading within garment
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Broken stitchesBroken stitches
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Skip stitchesSkip stitches
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Open seamOpen seam
Needle holeNeedle hole
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Needle chewNeedle chew
Summary SlideSummary Slide
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Poor reworkPoor rework
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Crooked collarCrooked collar
Sewing problemsSewing problems
High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point
Sewing problemsSewing problems
High / Low placketHigh / Low placket
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Exposed under placketExposed under placket
Sewing problems & RemediesSewing problems & Remedies
Pleat / hole at placketPleat / hole at placket
Sewing problemsSewing problems
High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Raw edgesRaw edges
Overrun stitchOverrun stitch
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Incorrect tension / grainingIncorrect tension / graining
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Uneven stitchingUneven stitching
Sewing problemsSewing problems
PuckeringPuckering
Sewing problemsSewing problems
PleatPleat
Sewing problemsSewing problems
MisalignmentMisalignment
Sewing problemsSewing problems
OverlappingOverlapping
Sewing problemsSewing problems
RopingRoping
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Stripe mismatchingStripe mismatching
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Uneven hemUneven hem
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Approved Reject
Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Approved Reject
Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Approved Reject
Twisted garmentTwisted garment
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Approved Reject
Shading with in garmentsShading with in garments
Sewing problemsSewing problems
Clock WiseClock Wise
Garment InspectionGarment Inspection
L
L
L
L
R L
R
R
R
R
Thank YouThank You

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