3. 3
Timepieces made for the Chinese market
The subject of an ever‐increasing demand among worldwide collectors, enamel
pocket watches and automata made for the Chinese, Ottoman, Indian and Hispanic
markets feature strongly in the sale.
Leading this group are luxury timepieces specially designed for the Chinese market in
the late 18th
and 19th
centuries. The first commercial contacts of European
watchmakers with China were established in the late 16th
century. At first an object of
curiosity, European luxury timepieces, mostly Swiss and English, became highly
sought after among Chinese officials under the reign of Emperor Qianlong (1736‐
1796).
In the early 1800s, Swiss, English and French makers vied for the lucrative Chinese
market, creating pieces of great innovation and originality. Among them was Jean‐
Antoine Lépine (1720‐1814), a revolutionary Parisian watch and clockmaker who contributed to crucial inventions. An
example of his great creations is a fine yellow gold and moss agate scent flacon with inset clock watch made circa
1770 for the Chinese market (est. CHF 100,000‐150,000/ $111,000‐167,000, illustrated above).
Reflecting the extraordinary craftsmanship behind ornamental timepieces destined for
Chinese dignitaries is an 18K yellow gold, enamel and pearl open‐faced watch made
circa 1820 by the London watchmaker William Ilbery (1760‐1839). One of the most
prominent makers of “Chinese watches”, Ilbery organised the production of highly
engraved movements in Switzerland, mainly in Fleurier, while the cases of his watches
were decorated by the best Genevan enamellers. The present watch features a
polychrome enamel scene of Abelard and Heloise attributed to the Geneva‐based
enameller Hess (est. CHF 70,000‐100,000/ $78,000‐111,000, illustrated left).
Other fine examples of “Chinese watches” include a yellow gold, enamel and pearl
open‐faced centre second, quarter repeating watch, made in Switzerland circa 1825
(est. CHF 30,000‐40,000/ $33,300‐44,400, illustrated right) and a yellow gold and
enamel centre second watch realised circa 1785 by the Swiss Jaquet Droz, whose
automata were highly sought after in China (est. CHF 15,000‐25,000/ $16,700‐
27,700).
4. 4
Timepieces made for the Ottoman market
The group of antique timepieces will also be highlighted by enamel pocket
watches made for the Ottoman Empire ‐ another destination of choice for
enterprising European watchmakers in the late 18th
century. Commercial
relations between European watchmakers and the “Sublime Porte” were initiated
as early as in the 17th
century and consolidated over the 18th
and 19th
centuries.
During this period, the best European watchmakers produced high quality
watches which were often offered as aristocratic gifts to the Sultans3
. Among
these, recognisable through their dial with Turkish numerals, is a rare yellow gold
and diamond half‐hunter cased keyless watch made circa 1890 probably by
Louis Audemars, known for the fine workmanship of his movements (est. CHF
80,000‐120,000/ $89,000‐133,000, illustrated left).
Other fine examples of timepieces made for Ottoman market include
two pieces with a portrait of Sultan Abdülmecid I (1823‐1861).
Succeeding his father Mahmud II in 1839, he forged alliances with
France and the United Kingdom in the Crimean War against Russia,
thereby facilitating the entrance of the Ottoman Empire into the
Concert of Nations in 1853. Liberal‐minded, he is mostly remembered
for conducting major social and political reforms, heralding the
modernisation of the Ottoman Empire (known as “Tanzimat”).
The first watch is an 18K yellow gold and enamel hunting‐cased watch made circa
1846 by Robert Roskell, an important London watchmaker of the time. The cover of
the watch features a polychrome enamel portrait of Abdülmecid I in military uniform
wearing the order of Iftihar Nisani (est. CHF 17,000‐20,000/ $18,900‐22,000). Made
by Longines circa 1900, the other watch is an 18K yellow gold and enamel hunting
cased minute repeating keyless watch, with a portrait of Abdülmecid I on the cover
and an enamel scene of Saint Sophia on the back (est. CHF 30,000‐40,000/ $33,300‐
44,400, illustrated above).
In the 19th
century, pocket watches with “exotic” landscapes inspired by Orientalist paintings were highly
coveted. Characteristic of these watches is a yellow gold and enamel hunter cased watch dating from circa 1825
and decorated with an enamel scene representing the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most commonly known as the
“Blue Mosque” (est. CHF 6,000‐8,000/ $6,700‐8,900, illustrated left).
3
Fine examples of these luxurious gifts can still be seen in Istanbul at the Topkapi Palace, which has a collection of 300 timepieces made for the local elite
from the 16
th
to the 19
th
centuries.
5. 5
Timepieces made for the Indian market
Following the success, in Sotheby’s May 2011 sale, of “Rajah Watches”, November’s
session will present a further selection of luxurious pocket watches destined for the
Indian market. Reaching their apogee in the latter half of the 19th
century, the “Rajah
watches” were decorated with enamel portraits of their commissioners, often taken
from photographs sent from India.
The sale comprises an 18K yellow gold and enamel hunting cased triple calendar
keyless chronograph watch made circa 1890 by the London watchmaker J.W.
Benson and featuring a portrait of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II (est. CHF 20,000‐
30,000/ $22,200‐33,300, illustrated above). The ruler of the Jodhpur State from
1873 until 1895, Jaswant Singh II was created a Knight Grand Commander of the
Most Exalted Order of the Star of India, an order of chivalry founded by Queen
Victoria in 1861 to honour Indian Chiefs and British officers who served in India.
Timepieces produced for the Indian market often combined precious material and great technical complexity, as
seen in an 18K yellow gold, diamond, enamel and pearl‐set hunting cased minute repeating keyless watch.
Dating from circa 1895, this delicate piece is signed by Marcks & Co. Ltd which specialised in the retail of fine
timepieces in India, often featuring highly complicated Swiss movements (est. CHF 45,000‐55,000/ $49,900‐
61,000, illustrated left).
Timepieces made for the Hispanic market
In the late 19th
century, European watchmakers started producing
timepieces tailored for the Spanish and South American markets. These
pieces were often characterised by highly engraved cases, as
demonstrated in the highlight of this section ‐ an 18K yellow gold and
enamel hunting‐cased minute repeating watch with a spectacular
automaton scene of bullfighting and a case with a medieval armoury trophy. This watch was made circa 1890 by
Sandoz Frères, Swiss watchmakers based in Le Locle which was, at the time, a centre
for the production of cases with elaborate gold work and engraved decoration (est. CHF
30,000‐50,000/ $33,300‐55,500, illustrated above). Other highlights of this section
include two 18K yellow gold hunting‐cased minute repeating keyless watches dating
from 1876 and 1878 (illustrated left) and signed by Jose R. de Losada, a Spaniard
working in London from 1835 until 1881 and specialised in pocket watches for the
Hispanic markets (each estimated at CHF 10,000‐15,000/$11,100‐16,700).
9. 9
ROLEX
At the centre of the sale is also an outstanding group of Rolex models. Following
the auction records achieved for rare Daytona models in November 2010 and
May 20117
, this session will comprise various Daytona vintage models, covering
different references and dial combinations.
Leading this section are two rare Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” ref. 6264, both
dating from circa 1967 and estimated at CHF 100,000‐150,000/ $ 111,000‐167,000. The
first, in stainless steel, is illustrated in Paolo Gobbi’s I Cronografi Rolex ‐ La Leggenda, the
reference book on the history of Rolex chronographs8
(illustrated above). The second ‐ an
18K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with registers ‐ formerly belonged to the
prestigious Mondani Collection of Rolex Wristwatches (illustrated left).
Capturing the essence of Rolex as the adventurer’s watch is the “Mystery Cross”
Daytona enjoys a rather unusual story. Dating from circa 1969, this stainless
steel chronograph wristwatch (Ref. 6265/6262) with engraving on the case back
depicting a mysterious cross was given by a guerrillero to the photographer
Sergio Leoni in exchange of his watch in the midst of the Amazonian forest (est.
CHF 50,000‐70,000/ $55,500‐79,000, illustrated right).
Among the other rare Daytona models is a stainless steel Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
ref. 6263/6262 made circa 1972 and featuring the Sultanate of Oman’s official coat of
arms on its dial (est. CHF 32,000‐38,000/ $35,500‐42,100, illustrated left).
In addition, passionate collectors of Rolex chronographs will have the opportunity to find
other rare models, including a rare Sea‐Dweller ref. 1665 with gas escape valve made in
1981 for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise), a Marseille‐based company
specialised in underwater engineering for the oil industry. In 1972, COMEX divers wore
Rolex Sea‐Dwellers in a world record‐setting dive which took them down to 2000 feet (610 meters) for 50 hours.
Following this success, COMEX decided to exclusively used Rolex diving watches and chronometers9
. The present
stainless steel centre seconds wristwatch with date, bracelet and Rolex patent back comes to the market with
an estimate of CHF 50,000‐70,000/ $55,500‐78,000.
7
In November 2010, Sotheby’s Geneva sold a very rare stainless steel Oyster Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” with brown dial, circa 1969 for CHF
464,500 ($476,805) (est. CHF 60,000 – 80,000) – a world auction record for a Rolex Daytona Paul Newman. In May 2011, the “Daytona 13” set a world
record for a reference 16528 when it sold for CHF 122,500 ($138,291) (est. CHF 80,000‐120,000).
8
Gobbi Paolo,Vinardi Filippo, Papaleo Salvatore, I Cronografi Rolex, La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, 2004, 450 pages.
10. 10
Vintage Timepieces
Vintage wristwatches by the most innovative horologists of the 20th
century make
for an essential addition to the sale. Displaying Breguet’s timeless elegant design
and defining mechanical complexity is a possibly unique white and pink old
octagonal open‐faced watch with triple calendar, power reserve and moon‐phases.
Made in 1949, this exceptional watch clearly shows the influence of legendary
watchmaker Abraham‐Louis Breguet (1747‐1823) who counted among his most loyal
clients Marie‐Antoinette, Napoleon and Tsar Alexander I (est. CHF 40,000‐60,000/
$44,400‐66,500, illustrated right).
Audemars Piguet’s innovative style is reflected in an extremely rare and unique 18K
yellow gold octagonal minute repeating wristwatch. First used in 1927, the movement of
this watch was cased in 1975. This watch represents the quintessence of the minute
repeating device, while its design is very characteristic of the 1970s (est. CHF 120,000‐
180,000/ $133,000‐200,000, illustrated left).
Lange and Söhne’s superb craftsmanship is represented in a fine and rare Tourbillon
“Pour le Mérite” with a pink dial made circa 1994 upon request of the present owner.
One of the first models by A. Lange & Söhne and perhaps one of the highest quality
tourbillons ever created, the Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” was only produced between
1994 and 1998. This fine and rare limited edition platinum tourbillon wristwatch with
chain and fusée and power reserve indication is part of the 50 pieces in platinum created
over this period (est. CHF 150,000‐250,000/ $167,000‐277,000, illustrated right).
Demonstrating Omega’s pioneering spirit is a gilt brass plated prototype
central tourbillon wristwatch presented in 1994 to celebrate the
company’s 100th
anniversary. Codenamed Project 33 (P33), the project
begun in 1991 under the direction of Moritz Grimm and André Beyner who
found their inspiration in three of Omega's past achievements: the
"Montres des Sables" pocket watches, the “Dinosaure”, and Omega's
famous 30mm automatic movement (est. CHF 30,000‐50,000/ $33,300‐55,500, illustrated left).
9
About 300 models of the Sea‐Dweller reference 1665 with gas escape valve were supplied to COMEX from the late 1960s to the early 1980s.
11. 11
Modern Timepieces
Complementing the offer is a section dedicated to highly complicated modern
timepieces by today’s greatest watchmakers. Among them is a Greubel Forsey Double
Tourbillon 30°. Dating from circa 2005, this very fine and rare 18K white gold semi‐
skeletonised double tourbillon wristwatch with four fast‐rotating co‐axial barrels
and 120‐hour power reserve carries an estimate of CHF 250,000‐350,000/ $277,000‐
388,000 (illustrated right).
Richard Mille is represented by two pieces from circa 2005 marrying cutting edge
techniques with a strong artistic and architectural dimension. The first ‐ one of the
five examples of the RM 012 set with diamonds ‐ is an exceptional limited edition
oversized platinum and diamond set tourbillon curved tonneau skeleton
wristwatch (est. CHF 300,000‐400,000/ $333,000‐444,000, illustrated left); the
second – an 18K white gold semi‐skeletonised watch with power reserve ‐ is a fine
example of RM 020, the first pocket watch ever built using a baseplate structure of
carbon nanofiber (est. CHF 150,000‐200,000/ $167,000‐222,000).
A further highlight of this section is a Royal Oak Concept CW1 watch made by
Audemars Piguet circa 2002. This fine oversized limited edition alacrite and titanium
tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, dynamograph and function selector is one
of the 150 examples of Royal Oak Concept CW1 produced between 2002 and 2004 to
celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak model (est. CHF 110,000‐130,000/
$122,000‐144,000, illustrated right).
IMPORTANT WATCHES
Sale:
Hôtel Beau‐Rivage, Geneva
Sunday 13 November 2011 at 8pm
Pre‐sale exhibition:
Hôtel Beau‐Rivage, Geneva
Friday 11 November, 3pm – 6pm
Saturday 12 November, 10am – 6pm
Sunday 13 November, 10am – 6pm
ALL PRESS RELEASES ARE PUBLISHED ON WWW.SOTHEBYS.COM
IMAGES ARE AVAILABLE ON REQUEST
* Pre‐sale estimates do not include buyer’s premium
Vente dirigée par le Ministère de Maîtres Claude Naville et Marco Breitenmoser, Huissiers Judiciaires.