OCT - DEC 2014 ISSUE

October- December 2014 33 76
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Textiles to drive National Economy
The textile industry remained grounded for a long time due to various reasons.
The report of the Expert Committee appointed by the Ministry of Textiles under the
Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary, National Manufacturing
Competitive Council visualizes a dominant role for the textile and apparel industry in
the Indian economy. It is a momentous development which has electrified the textile
andapparelindustry,whichisnonawaitingthenewTextiles Policytobeannouncedby
theMinistryofTextiles.
It is really gratifying that the Expert Committee has realised the tremendous potential of the textile and
apparel industry. Technological innovation may replace conventional fabrics by smart fabrics, but clothing
willcontinuetobetheprimaryneedofthehumanbeingsforalltimestocome.
What a fantastic impact the new policy will make on the Indian economy! Shri Manikam Ramaswami an
astute, discerning and visionary millowner has recently observed that export of textiles and clothing worth
US $ 1 billion will create additional one lakh jobs, and the net additional Foreign exchange earned (after
adjusting for imports) will be nearly US $ 1 billion. The vision report estimates exports of textiles and
clothing at US $ 300 billion and domestic sales at US $ 350 billion. Thus, the report envisages that the
industry whose present size is US $ 120 billion will transform itself into a gigantic industry of the size of US $
650billionby2024-25.
The preliminary estimate of total exports in 2013-14 has been US $ 319 billion. The additional foreign
exchange earnings of US $ 260 billion [Export of US $ 300 billion less present exports of US $ 40 billion] by
2024-25 would be a substantial addition to Foreign exchange kitty. This will dispel anxiety of keeping
Current Account deficit at a sustainable level. If the goals are achieved there will be addition of 5.30 crore
newemployeestothepresentlabourstrengthof52crore.
The economic growth which has slowed down due to domestic structural and external factors will
revive with renewed vigour and enhanced confidence. More than
five crore persons with enhanced purchasing power would have a
tonic effect on all industries across the board. The textile and
apparel industry will once again be at the pinnacle of Indian
economy. Mr. Ajay Shankar deserves all kudos for articulating a
visionthatwillimpacteveryhouseholdinthecountry.
The road ahead is long and full of hurdles. It is not going to be a
smooth journey. A systematic analysis of what the textile and
apparelindustrywantsmustbetheimmediateexercise.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2014 ISSUE In this Issue...
EDITORIAL TEAM
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Advertising & Sales
Md. Tanweer
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Aditya Biyani
Marketing Director, Damodar Group
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
Ms. Jigna Shah
GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Editor & Publisher
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak
President,Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
9- Government News
10- Corporate News
COVER STORY : INDIA'S VISION FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY
11- The undiscovered of the industry by Shri V.Y. Tamhane
12- Vision, Strategy & Action Plan for industry by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
14- Roadmap for Indian Textile industry by Prof. M.D. Teli
20- National Employment Policy by Shri V.Y. Tamhane
TECHNICAL ARTICLES
26- Recycling of plastic bottles into yarn & fabric
35- Knitted Fabric Softness- Ways to Improve
38- Natural Dyes – Overviews
TRADESHOW REPORT
37- Outlook- EDANA
44- Shilp Kathaon 2014
45- BCH Technical Symposium
48- Yarnex/ Texindia 2014
49- Global Geosynthetic Summit by CII
52- ITMACH – Pre Show
52- Cotton USA Seminar
71- Upcoming Tradeshow Details
AGM MEET SPEECH
56- TEXPROCIL
57- WOOL INDUSTRY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL
58- SRTEPC
61- FAITMA
62- AEPC
64- CITI
REPORTS
66- FABRIC QUALITY
68- YNFX MONTHLY PRICE REPORT
74- Fashion Forecast

5
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8

9
GOVT NEWSHANDLOOM JOIN HANDS WITH FLIPKART
INDIA PVT. LTD.
Ministry of Tex les today an-
nounced that Ministry through DC
(Handlooms) has signed a Memoran-
dum of Understanding (MoU) with
Flipkart India Pvt. Ltd. to provide on-
line marke ng pla orm to handloom
weavers to boost the handloom sector,
empower the weavers and boost man-
ufacturing in the country.
Through this exclusive agreement,
Flipkart will provide weavers in India
online marke ng pla orm, infrastruc-
tural support in data analy cs and
customer acquisi on to help them get
remunera ve prices for their products
and scale up their business.
Ministry of Tex les, Government of
India, through the office of the Devel-
opment Commissioner for Handlooms,
is con nuously striving to develop a
strong, compe ve and vibrant hand-
loom sector to provide sustainable em-
ployment to handloom weavers. The
Ministry had adopted focused, flexible
and holis c approach to promote and
facilitate the con nuous overall growth
and development of the handloom
industry through formula ng, imple-
men ng, monitoring and reviewing of
handloom policies, programmes and
schemes; to support the handloom
sector at large in upgrading skill knowl-
edge, market infrastructure, living con-
di on etc.
For marke ng support, the Min-
istry of Tex les has taken many ini a-
ves from me to me such as organi-
za ons of domes c marke ng events,
par cipa on in interna onal fairs and
buyer-seller meets etc. However, in the
present scenario of online marke ng
and net savvy consumers, it has been
felt need to provide online market-
ing pla orm to handloom weavers so
that exquisite handloom products of
remote village is made available to dis-
cerning buyers.
This kind of a coordinated effort
has been planned and executed for the
first me with Flipkart for handloom
weavers which will bridge the missing
linkages of market intelligence, market
access and logis cs and help the Indian
weavers in ge ng remunera ve prices
for their products.” Flipkart will provide
online marketplace for sale of the prod-
ucts of the weavers / master cra s-
men/ na onal awardees/ state level
awardees and the others as advised by
Development Commissioner for Hand-
looms. Towards this end, they will go to
the doorsteps of the above said since
they do not have the brand, financial
wherewithal to have a store leave aside
in a town but not even in their village,
no wherewithal to travel to market
their products. Flipkart or their busi-
ness partners will also have a collec on
centers to collect their products.
The weavers will sell their products
under their brand name and evolve as
an entrepreneur selling his products
directly to buyers across the country
without stepping out of their work-
place.
Flipkart, with its access to the larg-
est customer base in the country, aims
to help weavers make op mal use of
the available data to guide entrepre-
neurs and ar sans on areas such as
deciding on the right selling price, pay-
ment automa on, proper packaging,
transporta on, brand building etc.
The DATA analy cs and market in-
telligence provided by Flipkart will help
the weavers focus only on producing
be er saleable product ranges. This in
turn will help them plan their produc-
on and inventory and expand their
business, thus revolu onizing manu-
facturing in rural India and encourage
entrepreneurship.
This partnership will connect the
ar sans directly to the buyer and the
hand holding by Flipkart in guiding,
packaging, collec ng and delivering to
the buyer will mo vate the ar sans in
rural India. North East has skilled weav-
ers with rich tradi onal mo fs and
designs, but due to the lack of market
linkages they are not able to exploit the
market poten al. Similarly, Paithani
and Himroo weaves from Maharashtra
have tremendous value but are a dying
art. Flipkart`s ABHIYAAN Flipkart – Kaar-
igar ke dwar to connect the weavers to
the buyers across the country will also
help arrest this dying art and change
the face of rural India. This ini a ve
will help rural weavers earn suitable re-
munera on for their products without
having to step out of their homes. Thus
the children of these weavers will be
mo vated to learn and con nue the art
and stay back in the rural areas instead
of migra ng to the urban areas for jobs,
thereby keeping alive the rich tradi on
of Indian art.
The Minister of State (Independent
Charge) for Tex les Shri Santosh Kumar
Gangwar honoured 54 women from
27 Indian states who have achieved
significant success in produc on, pro-
duc vity and adop on of best prac-
ces in the field of Sericulture across
the country in a Na onal Workshop on
“Empowering Women Through Sericul-
ture”. During the inaugural session, five
achievers shared their experience.
Inaugura ng the Workshop, Shri
Gangwar hear ly noted that sericul-
ture has been providing gainful liveli-
hood opportuni es to rural women.
Addressing the women achievers, the
Minister added that “through sericul-
ture, you have been able to provide
good educa on to your children and
spend the money earned out of it fruit-
fully for the be erment of your fami-
lies. This is indeed encouraging. You are
role models for other farmers. I would
appeal to you to promote sericulture
for enhanced silk produc on in the
country.”
Shri Gangwar said Wthat “it is the
right me for us to focus on high qual-
ity silk and become truly world class.”
He said that the Ministry would like to
take the development process through
par cipa ve approaches leading to in-
clusive growth. He also expressed hap-
piness about the innova ve prac ces
adopted by the women in sericulture
and hoped that this workshop will help
in augmen ng produc on of quality
silk in the country substan ally.
Making a presenta on on the mat-
ter, Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda, Secre-
tary, Ministry of Tex les, stressed that
that sericulture is an effec ve tool for
poverty eradica on in rural areas and
empowerment of women. He further
stated that the challenges ahead lies
in producing quality bivol ne silk for
mee ng the need of the silk weaving
industry. He further highlighted that
quality silk worm food plants, robust
silk worm races, produc on of quality
silk worm seed and effec ve marke ng
should be the focus areas.
Dr. Panda stated that the key to
success is good team work with syner-
gy with the schemes of other depart-
ments like Mahatma Gandhi Na onal
Rural Employment Guarantee Scheme
(MGNREGS), Rashtriya Krishi Vikas Yo-
jana (RKVY) and Na onal Aforesta on
Programme (NAP), appropriate tech-
nology and effec ve management.
T M H 54 W A S

10
Compact yarn is one of the growing
high-value yarn segments that spinners
are increasingly vying for, so as to suc-
ceed in a compe ve yarn market. Re-
alising the huge poten al for compact
yarn, A.T.E. has ed-up with Ningbo
Dechang Precision Tex le Machinery
Co. Ltd., China, to bring a range of high
quality retrofit compact spinning sys-
tems to Indian spinners.
Dechang, one of the leading com-
pact conversion manufacturers, is
known for its high quality equipment
which is based on suc on and perfo-
rated nylon apron concept. Dechang
has a patent for its complete compact
modifica on kit. Dechang can supply
and install its en re compact systems
on almost all makes of ring frames.
They have a reference base of 2 million
spindles in China and more than half a
million in other markets.
Expressing his enthusiasm for this
e-up, Mr Laxmikant Rathi, Vice Presi-
dent – Spinning Accessories & Exports,
A.T.E. Enterprises, said, “We were look-
ing for a reliable and technologically
advanced compact retrofit system that
can produce high quality compact yarn,
which we have found in the Dechang
compact system. This partnership will
bring the best technology to the Indian
compact yarn market”.
Mr Xu Shiping, Vice General Man-
ager, Ningbo Dechang, expressed that,
“Having A.T.E. as a partner gives us an
opportunity to reach the en re tex le
sector, as A.T.E. is a complete solu on
provider for all the tex le machinery
needs of the Indian tex leindustry,
and hence known to allcustomers. This
e-up will help us topromote our high
quality, cost effec vesolu ons in com-
pact systems to theIndian market.”
As per the arrangements, A.T.E. will
maintain a stock of cri cal and import-
ant components like la ce aprons, suc-
on tubes and gear box assemblies for
the compact yarn system. The Indian
spinners can thus look forward to fast
and excellent sales and service sup-
port from A.T.E. for the Dechang com-
pactspinning system.
CORPORATE NEWS A.T.E. I
From L to R: Laxmikant Rathi ( A.T.E.), Xu
Shiping, Su Xiaoguang (Dechang), Anuj Bhagwa
(A.T.E.), Zheng Jianping, Xu Jun (De-chang)and P
K Govil (TeraSpin)
Reading fabric appearance: the
yarn tells the story
Tes ng with USTER® TESTER 5 and
USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 shows how a fab-
ric will look and feel…
Total customer sa sfac on is every
spinner’s goal and reputa ons depend
on it. Every cri cal yarn parameter
must to be tested to ensure that the
resultant fabric meets expecta ons,
whatever level of the market is being
supplied. All the evidence confirms it,
from the world’s most successful yarn
producers, and from detailed prac cal
analysis.
There are two main types of yarn
user: those commi ed to weaving or
kni ng high-quality fabrics, and those
which serve ‘commodity’ applica ons.
Both groups have their own specif-
ic requirements – and it’s essen al
that spinners understand these needs
and how to meet them. What is clear,
though, is that yarn tes ng is funda-
mental to customer sa sfac on, in ev-
ery case.
Major customers, demanding re-
quirements
The PALLAVAA Group is a success-
ful spinning company in India, special-
izing in Viscose, MicroModal, Modal,
Polyester, Bamboo, Supima and its
blends, and pure co on. They are sup-
plying big brands like NEXT, Marks &
Spencer, H & M, Victoria’s Secret etc.
PALLAVAA is not alone in its desire to
work with major retailers.
In fact, long-standing customer re-
la onships, based on high standards,
call for a whole range of yarn quality
parameters to be controlled: even-
ness, imperfec ons (neps, thin and
thick places), hairiness, remaining de-
fects and foreign fibers. Measurements
from the USTER® TESTER 5 provide re-
ports and analysis on evenness, imper-
fec ons and hairiness, while remaining
defects and foreign fibers are covered
by the USTER® CLASSIMAT 5. Quali-
ty-conscious spinners have trusted in
these two instruments for decades for
reliable and accurate data. These lab-
oratory tes ng instruments’ data can
tell the yarn quality story – and even
predict how the final fabric will look.
tes ng at the Uster Technologies
laboratory in Switzerland has shown
that yarns with comparable CVm val-
ues can produce fabrics with obvious
differences in appearance. In the tests,
Ne24 co on yarns from 10 different
suppliers had insignificant differences
in their CVm values, which could lead
wrongly to the conclusion that the fab-
rics would look the same. Further test
datafromtheUSTER®TESTER5showed
results for neps which were close in 8
of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had
a nep value below the 25 USTER® STA-
TISTICS Percen le (USPTM). But one of
the yarns had a much higher nep val-
ue, even exceeding 50 % of the USTER®
STATISTICS value.
“We know from experience that
fabric kni ed from yarn with a nep
level over 50 % will show li le pilling
on the surface,” says Peters. The yarns
were also tested for hairiness – and
here the test results varied even more
widely. Values ranged from below 25 %
USPTM to above 95 %.
“Fabric made from yarns with such
different hairiness values will never
ever look the same, and as these test
results demonstrate, spinners tes ng
only yarn evenness are making a poten-
ally serious error. They would clear-
ly be wrong to place any confidence
in producing yarns to meet customer
needs under these circumstances.”
Common prac ce or best prac ce?
Some yarn users have developed a
policy of taking sample packages from
a yarn lot and ‘tes ng’ them by run-
ning the yarn through their weaving
or kni ng machines. “The effort of
kni ng or weaving a fabric can be re-
duced to the minimum or eliminated if
you have a yarn test report containing
reliable informa on rela ng to fabric
appearance,” says Peters. “The USTER®

11
COVER STORYTHE UNDISCOVERED , OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Shri V.Y.Tamhane
H D A
To say that, the Vision, Strategy and
Ac on Plan for Indian Tex le and Apparel
Sector dra ed by the Expert Commi ee
under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shan-
kar, Member-Secretary Na onal Manu-
facturing Compe veness Council has brought cheer to the
industry is a gross understatement. The Vision statement
has radically transformed the mood of the en re industry
and inspired confidence in it. It has started feeling that it is
on cloud nine, and it is now looking forward to climbing the
commanding heights of the interna onal trade in tex les
and clothing. The statement is music to ears and assurance
of happy days ahead.
The export target of US$ 300 billion and projected do-
mes c demand of US $ 350 by 2024-25 making a total of
US $ 650 billion from the present level of US $ 120 billion is
certainly highly ambi ous, very lo y and seemingly difficult.
But one may recall that in the medieval period the industry
trumped all compe tors in the interna onal market. Its ex-
port performance in early nineteen fi ies was mind-blow-
ing. All that is required is the posi ve approach.
To make the policy a ground success, Government is
bound to pull out all the stops and open all windows and
doors.
Exports largely depend upon, monsoon, China factor,
par value of rupee, fibre-neutral taxa on policy and im-
port-walls raised by impor ng countries. An important issue
will be the development of domes c raw material base for
achieving the gigan c export target and mee ng the domes-
c demand.
We have to accept the fact that in comfort, style and
fashion, it is difficult to beat Indian tex les and clothing. To
meet the upmarket demand par cularly in the developed
countries the industry must aspire to become the epitome
of luxury. At the same me, industry should not overlook the
demand pa ern of the society at large, the world over. What
is now required is the se ng up of large produc on capac-
i es of man-made fibres, yarns and processed cloth and
garments. The leading corporates will not chase awards, but
market leadership through talented strategies, with relent-
less focus on the world requirement of tex les and clothing.
H :
It is fortuitous that, interna onally things are changing
for the be er. The U.S. economy is normalising. Europe is
restructuring and Japanese economy is becoming be er. If
we put all that together, the world economy is looking up.
P
There are 24 lakh powerlooms in the powerloom sector
and 52,000 looms in the mill sector. However, the number
of shu leless looms in not more than 1.10 to 1.20 lakh. The
worse part of it is that a large chunk of shu leless looms is
second-hand.
Shu leless looms are a pre-requisite to manufacture
fabrics which are flawless and faultless and which have good
dimensional stability. A small popula on of 1.10 to 1.20 lakh
shu leless looms is too inadequate for mee ng the demand
of garment sector for the manufacture of garments for ex-
port purposes as well as domes c demand.
The powerloom sector is the weakest link and has no
wherewithal for installa on of shu leless looms. Further,
this sector finds it difficult to get term loans even under
TUFS, because of their inability to furnish collateral security.
The sector is in need of viability-gap funding. Hence, if Gov-
ernment takes steps to set up pools of imported shu leless
looms of different mix of water-jet, air-jet, and rapier shut-
tleless looms at different powerloom centres in the country
for giving such looms on lease to powerloom owners, with
the lease rent being as low as possible, many powerloom
owners will come forward. Thus, there will be adequate
supply of grey cloth manufactured on shu leless looms.
No duty, neither custom duty nor CVD nor SAD should be
charged on such looms to keep its cost as low as possible so
that the lease rent will not become a burden on the power-
loom sector. A special scheme with liberal incen ves should
also be devised for construc ng factory buildings for power-
looms, which today func oning in sub-standard condi ons.
P S
Now comes the issue of upgrada on of processing tech-
nology.
A processing unit of economic capacity with imported
machinery costs Rs 100 crore. If good processing machines
giving results comparable to interna onal standards are pur-
chased from domes c sources and the balance machines,
which are not available domes cally only are imported,
then the investment may be about Rs 80-85 crore. Of the
project cost of Rs 100 crore, machinery would cost Rs 40-50
crore and the balance Rs 50-60crore will be required for the
purchase of land, buildings and to cover cost of installa on
of machinery, equipment, u li es, and effluent treatment
plant, etc including the incidence of customs duty, excise
duty, sales tax aggrega ng to about 20-22%.
At present, processing machinery is en tled to 5% in-
terest reimbursement and 10% capital subsidy for specified
processing machinery. Investments in items like land, facto-
ry buildings u li es, installa on charges etc and pre-oper-
a ve expenses and margin money are not eligible for the
benefit of reimbursement under the scheme, unlike for han-
dloom and apparel sectors, with a cap of 50% of total new
eligible investment. The subsidy is also not available on the
tax por on of the price of machinery etc. Hence, capital sub-
sidy for a processing project of Rs 100 crore would be only
Rs 4 crore. In addi on, interest reimbursement at 5% is only
available for seven years. This is not an a rac ve proposal
for investment.
A –
1) To set up exclusive Tex le Processing Parks at Power-
loom Clusters like Bhiwandi, Ichalkaranji, Surat, Malego-
an, Burhanpur etc.
2) IR should be given on all excluded costs like, du es, and
cost, building cost, u li es etc.
3) Government should set up co-genera on facili es to
supply power and steam and provide for centralized ETP,
as is done in China. While power should be supplied at
cost, steam should be supplied free of charge.

12
COVER STORY
The proposed project will, on an average, process
70,000 metres of cloth per day i.e. 210 lakh metres in a
year of 300 working days. Assuming that an average gar-
ment requites 2.5 metres of cloth, 84 lakh garments could
be s tched from 210 lakh metres of cloth. At US$ 5 per gar-
ment (f.o.b) the foreign exchange earning would be US$ 40
million per annum. One processing unit can process cloth of
20 shu leless looms, producing 200 metres per day.
The above calcula on is at 100% efficiency, with 100%
produc on and 100% exports and no wastages have been
assumed.While actual produc on would depend upon ef-
ficiency, intensity of use of machines, work stoppages, ma-
chine stoppages, overhauling, maintenance,etc, exports will
depend on export orders, and f.o.b prices.
There should be a sizeable number of clusters of im-
ported shu leless looms at different powerloom des na-
ons and adequate number of Tex le Processing Parks at
such places.
G S
Once the number of shu leless loom for produc on of
grey fabrics is increased to the required extent and process-
ing facili es of interna onal standard are made available,
garment manufacturers would get adequate supplies of
fabrics of interna onal standard at most economic prices
and they would be in a posi on to increase exports in a sig-
nificant manner. Addi onally, this route will not increase
import content of export produc on and the industry will
contribute significantly large amounts in foreign exchange
for growth and development of na onal economy.
If the produc on base of processed fabrics is enlarged,
the remaining problem of the garmen ng sector would be
the availability of skilled workers, the withdrawal prohibi-
on imposed on engagement of women workers between
10 pm and 6 am (next day), the restricted number of hours
for doing over me work, etc
It is a ma er of gra tude that Government is giving
due emphasis on skill development programmes. The Gar-
ment industry with the support of Apparel Export Promo-
on Council has taken a lead for training. It is reported that
about 1 lakh workers have already been trained. Skill devel-
opment ac vity should be enlarged and supported by firing
on all cylinders.
Let us look forward to a tex le industry, which will dom-
inate the Indian economy by earning loads of foreign ex-
change and providing jobs to teeming millions.
Avinash Mayekar
MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd
Recently “Navaratri fes val” has
added colours to the lives of all Indians.
We are fortunate to born in the country
of colours and colours reflect in our cul-
ture and in to our clothings. Every State
in India has its specific cultural a re, matching style and
colour combina ons. Our woman has got great affinity to-
wards colour and has sense& choice for her colour. To help
her, tex le industry is present in our country since ancient
mes and contribu ng a lot to the fashion industry.
The Indian Tex le Industry is playing an important role
in country’s economy by genera ng large employment base
since decades. It is also a prime source for foreign exchange
earnings for years. Hence, it is of paramount importance
to chalk out our Country’s vision, strategy & ac on plan to
carve out be er future. Somehow, the efforts in this regard
have been of very low scale and have not come to the ex-
pecta ons of the globe ll date. At interna onal scenario,
China is s ll a big brother and India has all its merits to take
a bigger pie of the cake from China. However, the efforts
are not in right direc ons far away from value addi ons and
targets. We need to design our master plan in more appro-
priate way.
The very first step to the ladder of success would be to
study our resources in terms of raw materials, work culture,
skill sets& infrastructure. We can map our country into the
module of each and every State thoroughly for type, quality
& quan ty of fibres produced & how the levels of produc-
ons can further be improvedin the region, what challeng-
es are faced by the people while producing fibres & how
these problems can be overcome. e.g. co on yield is s ll a
big challenge across India and there is a huge scope for im-
provement by using latest cul va ng techniques.
It is equally important to study prevailing industries
in that par cular State& whether there is a balance in the
supply chain management e.g. if only spinning industry is
grown exponen ally in the par cular region but weaving &
processing industry has not any presence in the region, then
the producer will be directly selling the yarn in the neigh-
boring state or foreign countries. But instead, if cluster is de-
veloped in such a way that ginning, spinning, weaving, pro-
cessing & garmen ng sector are based in one cluster, then
value chain can be easily balanced. This will help in reducing
transporta on, logis cs, administra on and overhead costs
dras cally giving more profit margins. Integrated Tex le
Park Scheme envisages the vision to bring en re value chain
at one place with all suppor ng infrastructure. Mini Tex le
Park concept can definitely boost this scheme. The other im-
portant aspect is presence of ginning &spinning industries
near co on growing regions. This would facilitate reduc on
inlogis c costs as well as contamina on& wastage thereby
giving superior quality products. Similarly, other fibres like
silk, wool, jute etc. have their own importance and can be
developed in the respec ve States for value addi on.
It is very important to use various tools such as SWOT
analysis, PESTEL analysis, compe tor’s analysis, geograph-
ic analysis & demographic analysis for each & every State.
We have to study the market gaps, growth drivers, products
having interna onal markets etc. whether our strategy is in
line with the global trends or not. e. g. China is the biggest
player in the global tex le industry but because of increas-
ing labour cost in China, industry players are eyeing on other
Asian countries for produc on & this can be a good oppor-
VISION, STRATEGY & ACTION PLAN FOR INDIAN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRY

13
C S
tunity for India. Study & Implementa on of similar business
models of States like Maharashtra and Gujarat where Tex le
Industry has shown tremendous growth will definitely add
to success of Indian Tex le Industry.
Once we have all data pertaining to Tex le Industry of
en re country based on various segments in tex le value
chain, organized ordecentralized sectors, fibre-wise indus-
tries, scale of economy, technology level; we can arrive at
the exis ng scenario of IndianTex le Industry. This will fa-
cilitate us in understanding our vision statement. Our vision
should not only be in numbers indica ng market share or
export values, but it should be derived based on various
factors likeresource availability, growth drivers, level of in-
frastructure development, level of skill development & level
of technology advancement and probable investment pos-
sibili es.
Next step is to devise roadmap for our vision. This road-
map can be formed by iden fying investment opportuni es
in the region, based on segment analysis. Once we iden fy
industries to be developed, it is very necessary to chalk out
the ac on plan for development. This plan will be integra-
on of all aspects like value chain, infrastructure develop-
ment, skill development, technology levels, policy reforms&
crea on of marke ng pla orms. e.g. if a par cular State has
to be developed for produc on of export oriented garment
industry, it is necessary to develop skill sets and suppor ng
infrastructure like design studios, crea vity related ac vi-
es, roads, ports, labour training schools& marke ng plat-
forms to a ract global brands. Absence of any one of these
aspects can lead to a failure. Hence, it is crucial to pursue
holis c approach which will cover all parameters.
Extensiveandefficientroadnetwork,availabilityofgood
quality water, uninterrupted power supply& other u li es,
well developed ports are important factors contribu ng to
infrastructure development. Likewise, highlyskilled labours
trained with interna onal skills and standards will help to
achieve higher produc vi es & good opera onal manage-
ment. It is necessary to check whether exis ng educa onal
programs are capable to create such high skilled human re-
source. Educa onal seminars & training programs can also
helpto create good resources. In fact,there are interna onal
consul ng firms who are specialists and have experience in
training to tex le experts and workers. Such kind of train-
ing programs can develop a good skilled workforce in our
country.
Technology advancement plays crucial role for growth
of the any industry e.g. if our vision is to double our exports
in next 5 years, but we do not have state-of-the art tech-
nology to produce interna onal standard goods, then we
can never achieve our vision. Some of the tex le sectors like
Ginning, are s ll using very obsolete technologies.With the
obsolete machineries, we cannot achieve desired standards
of products as impuri es in co on can lead several prob-
lems like less absorbency, harsh hand-feel & less brightness
etc. We have to update ourselves with the latest state-of-
the ar echnology. Government has launched TUFS scheme
to support technology development which is an appreciable
ini a ve. However, it needs efficient implementa on and
promo on across the value chain. More such Government
schemes are needed to bring about technology advance-
ment.
Government policies & ini a ves should be in tune with
the vision e.g. if a par cular cluster has to be developed for
Fabric processing industry, Government policies should cre-
ate conducive environment for growth of the processing in-
dustry, such as CETP plants and water availability. Benefits
like tax exemp on, tax holidays, capital & interest subsidies
should be given to promote tex le sector. This will help to
create posi ve environment amongst investors. Once the
cluster is developed, the next step is to create marke ng
network for businesses like arrangement of events & exhi-
bi ons which will promote the products. This can create a
pla orm to bring about awareness & marke ng of products
& help in business development. The last but not the least is
con nuous monitoring of ac on plan. No ac on plan is com-
plete if it is not monitored at various stages. So it is neces-
sary to decide milestones & me frames. These milestones
have to be implemented within me frames to achieve the
vision. A con nuous dialogue with all stake holders is need-
ed to boost the sector. Similarly financial ins tu ons play
very important role in sanc oning commercial values for
the future projects. They need to be guided properly for ap-
praisal systems and faster financing procedures.
Today, Indian economy is in transi on phase. Our Prime
Minister Mr. Narendra Modi is taking good ini a ves to at-
tract foreign investments from Japan, China, USA and other
developed countries. Many other foreign na ons are eyeing
on Indian economy for investments. Our Vision for tex le &
apparel sector should bring the right environment for inves-
tors by crea ng good infrastructure, skill development, Gov-
ernment policies & marke ng pla orms. We can definitely
lead the globein future by devising right and appropriate
strategies to create our Vision and Ac on Plan.
Tex le Consul ng firmshaving in depth knowledge of
Indian and global tex le industrycan add value in the efforts
of the Government ini a ves todevise appropriate ac on
plan, strategy and vision statement for Indian tex le indus-
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14
Prof. M.D.Teli,
Sanket Valia & Pintu Pandit
I
Indian Tex le Industry is the mother
industry of this country as over 35 million
popula on is directly dependent on its
growth. Hence its growth not only cons tutes the GDP
growth but also it impacts the life of a large popula on of
this country. The growth of this sector thus does not con-
fine to economic reasons, but it is a social responsibility is-
sue too, as it provides employment to a large number of
popula on next to agricultural sector. Among the various
strengths of this Tex le sector, one of them is availability
of diverse variety of fibre raw materials. Co on, silk, wool,
jute and manmade fibres like polyester, nylon, acrylic and
viscose rayon are widely available in India. India is the
world’s second largest producer of tex les and garments
a er China. India, is world’s second largest producer of cot-
ton a er China and also the second largest co on consum-
er a er China. India is the second largest producer of raw
silk a er China and at the same me India is the top most
consumer of silk based fancy materials.
Due to the liberaliza on the of trade and economic
policies ini ated by the Government in the 1990s the last
decade saw considerable growth much more than the that
observed in previous decades. Over the last 10 years, India’s
tex le and apparel exports have grown at the rate of 11%.
However, a er the phasing out of export quotas in 2005
India’s export performance has been below expecta ons.
Apparel is an ideal industry for examining the dynamics of
buyer-driven value chains. The rela ve ease of se ng up
clothing companies, coupled with the prevalence of devel-
oped-country protec onism in this sector, has led to an un-
paralleled diversity of garment exporters in the third world.
In the domes c market, which is over 1.2 bn popula-
on, sustaining an annual growth rate of 12% should not
be difficult. This implies that with a 12% CAGR in domes c
sales the industry should reach a produc on level of US$
350 billion by 2024-25 from the current level of about US$
100 billion for the domes c market. With a 20% CAGR in
exports India would be expor ng about US$ 300 billion of
tex le and apparel by 2024-25.
This would of course imply that growth rates in exports
of fibre and yarn would start declining and growth rates of
apparel, homes furnishing, technical tex les and other fin-
ished products should grow very rapidly. This is going to be
the trend as everyone is crystal clear about the benefits of
climbing up on value chain and then expor ng the prod-
ucts. The profitability is much more significant when you
supply the finished garments as compared to supplying the
yarns, and raw fabrics. This would also maximize employ-
ment genera on and value crea on within the country in
the tex le and apparel industry.
With regards to domes c market, within certain states
such as West Bengal and North-Eastern states there exists a
good room to develop the market in these areas. On certain
exis ng problems in India in the field of fiber research, de-
velopment and industrializa on, India needs an altera on
in research environment to bring in the needed radical
change.
1. T A M :
India has overtaken Germany and Italy to emerge as
the world’s second largest tex le exporter.
But it lags China, whose exports are nearly seven mes
higher. Data released by the Apparel Export Promo on
Council, the industry body for garment exporters, showed
that India’s tex les exports were es mated at $40 billion in
2013, compared with China’s $274 billion. Tex les include
everything from fibre and yarn to fabric, made-ups and
readymade garments made of co on, silk, wool and syn-
the c yarn. Over the past few months the Indian garment
industry has staged a recovery of sorts which can be seen in
the 23% rise in exports of shirts, trousers, skirts and other
ready-mades during 2013.
Increasing labor cost and stringent environmental laws
China is compelled to bring down its produc on; non-com-
pliance of large number of factories in Bangladesh also pro-
vides India a big opportunity in view of its rela ve advan-
tage and risk appe te of Indian entrepreneurs. A small push
from the Government may help India to get more business
as overseas buyers are looking at India as safe and reliable
op on for the sourcing. But to capture the space in market
le by China and Bangladesh, we have to be compe ve in
price, be er quality and delivery in proper me and there-
fore, Government agencies’ ac ve support is very crucial.
In consulta on with the Industry, meanwhile, the Min-
istry of Tex les has fixed an export target of USD 45 billion
for tex le products for the year 2014-15. Exports of tex le
products are supported through different schemes under
Foreign Trade Policy e.g. Focus Market Scheme, Market
Linked Focus Product Scheme, Focus Product Scheme and
Duty Drawback Scheme. Exporters of tex le products can
also avail duty free import of capital Goods under EPCG and
raw material under Advance Authoriza on Scheme.
1.1 T B 2014-15
Everyone accepts the fact that India has to increase
its share in export basket. In order to encourage exports
of readymade garments it has been announced in “Union
COVER STORY ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND
APPAREL INDUSTRY

15
Budget 2014 – 15” to increase the duty free en tlement for
import of trimmings, embellishments and other specified
items from 3% to 5% of the value of exports.
The Prime Minister Narendra Modi government, in its
first budget exuded its intent to kick start the investment
cycle to nurse India’s ailing economy back to good health.
Coming amid high expecta ons from the tex le and garment
industry, the Finance Minister Arun Jaitley, in his maiden
Union Budget 2014-15, charmed the industry par cipants
with an array of encouraging proposals.
The Central Plan for Ministry of Tex les has been fixed at
Rs 4,326 crore for 2014-15, about Rs 425 crore higher than
the revised es mates for 2013-14, but Rs 305 crore lesser
than the budget es mates for that year. A major por on of
this has been allocated for Technology Up grada on Fund
Scheme (TUFS) at Rs 2,300 crore. Compara vely, TUFS has
got Rs 344 crore more than what was spent last year but
Rs 100 crore lesser than what was intended for spending in
2013-14.
1.2 M I
Technology Upgrada on Fund Scheme (TUFS) is one
of the flagship schemes of the Ministry of Tex les and has
helped the industry to garner investments of Rs. 243,000
crore for Moderniza on of its set up. The scheme was
launched in 1999 and has been instrumental in helping In-
dia achieve new heights in the development of the tex le
sector and par cularly in the spinning segment. Personally I
was involved in evalua ng this scheme at some point of me
and I can vouch that indeed this scheme has been a turning
point in India’s moderniza on efforts of Tex le Industry. It
has definitely brought the industry to gain the compe ve
edge. In his Budget Speech of February, 2013, the Finance
Minister had announced con nua on of TUFS in the 12th
Plan with a major focus on moderniza on of the powerloom
sector. Higher subsidies for weaving / powerloom sector
have accordingly been planned in the con nued TUFS.
The tex les industry is provided credit at minimum rates
both in the organized and the unorganized sector. In the 12th
Plan period (2012-17), the past government had approved
Rs 11,900 crore for the con nua on of TUFS and so far more
than 15000 crore has been spent on this scheme.
1.3 S T C
Development of various tex le clusters has been one of
the strategic path the Government is encouraging to boost
the decentralized economy. The government proposed to
set up mega tex le clusters at Varanasi, Bareilly, Lucknow,
Surat, Ku ch, Bhagalpur, Mysore and one in Tamil Nadu with
a sum of Rs 200 crore.
It is claimed that the Budget recognizes the aspira ons
of a new India which is looking towards the government for
decisively moving towards high growth, low infla on and
more jobs. As per the minister, this budget aims for a 7 %
or higher growth rate in a sustained manner within the next
few years and will also usher in macro-economic stability in
the near future.
1.4 E
To encourage exports of readymade garments, the Fi-
nance Minister announced an increase in duty free en tle-
ment for import of trimmings, embellishments and other
specified items from 3 % to 5 % of the value of their exports.
The Government has fixed an export target of $17.2 billion
for readymade garments during 2014-2015. The Scheme for
Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP) was launched in 2005 to en-
courage private investments and employment genera on
in the tex le sector by facilita ng world class infrastructure
for common facili es, such as roads, water supply treatment
and distribu on network, power genera on and distribu on
network, effluent collec on treatment and disposal system,
design centre, warehouse, first aid centre, etc. The tex le
parks are at different stages of implementa on. Fourteen
of the first 40 parks have been completed and 13 parks are
opera onal. Investment in parks ll date is Rs. 5,025 crores
with direct employment of 47,167. Sixteen tex le parks
were sanc oned in the 11th Five-Year Plan, of which 11 tex-
le parks have become func onal. Five tex le parks were
sanc oned in the 11th Plan for Maharashtra, of which four
are func onal now.
1.5 B T D -
Basic Customs Duty on raw materials (PTMEG etc.) re-
quired for manufacturing of spandex yarn reduced from 5
% to Nil. To encourage new investment in the chemicals and
petrochemicals sector, the Budget has reduced the basic
customs duty on reformate from 10 % to 2.5 %; on ethylene,
propylene, and ortho-xylene from 5 % to 2.5 %. Adding to
it, the government proposed faster clearance of import and
export cargo which will help in minimizing transac on costs
and improving business compe veness. The FM also an-
nounced exemp on of co on transport loading and unload-
ing services from the purview of service tax. Southern India
Mills’ Associa on (SIMA) considers that this development
will offer considerable relief to the industry and also to cot-
ton growers.
1.6 S A H S
In a move to carry forward the rich tradi on of hand-
looms of Varanasi, the FM announced to set up a Trade Fa-
cilita on Centre and a Cra s Museum with an outlay of Rs
50 crore to develop and promote handloom products. Gov-
ernment also proposed to set up a Hastkala Academy for the
preserva on, revival, and documenta on of the handloom/
handicra sector in PPP mode in Delhi, for which it has set
aside a sum of Rs 30 crore. Further, to provide employment
to the people of Jammu and Kashmir, the government pro-
posed to invest Rs 50 crore to start a Pashmina Promo on
Programme and a programme for the development of other
cra s in the state. Someone has rightly said that “It’s impos-
sible to please everyone.” While the Union Budget 2014-
2015 succeeded in fetching praises from almost the en re
tex le industry, there seemed to be a few who expected s ll
more from the Budget.
1.7 FDI I
Resurgence has been witnessed in the Indian tex le
sector with the introduc on of Foreign Direct Investment
(FDI). The government is providing grants under market ac-
cess ini a ve and market development assistance scheme
for maximum u liza on of FDI.
C SROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND
APPAREL INDUSTRY

16
Various schemes like Technology Upgrada on Fund
Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP),
Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), Scheme for
development of Technical Tex les, and Schemes for the de-
velopment of the Powerloom Sector etc. have been imple-
mented in the tex le sector.
India had shipped $ 36.69 billion worth during 2013
showing an upward trend of 11.58 percent. Tex le, clothing
and handicra s worth $ 34.93 billion were shipped during
April-March, 2012-13. Foreign direct investment (FDI) of
worth $199 billion was also made in India’s tex le sector in
the financial year 2013-14. Especially for the period April-
May 2014, the country’s tex le sector a racted FDI worth
$ 11.70 million. The tex le ministry beckons a posi ve shi
in India’s tex le export. The industry con nues to gain help
as the government explores new markets by holding exhibi-
ons in the Russian Federa on, Israel, Eastern Europe, La n
American countries and other non-tradi onal markets.
1.8 A E P C ’ V
2015
The world apparel market was worth US$ 345 bn in
2007. The market has grown at a rate of 8% during this de-
cade. However, post quota the rate of growth has increased
and for the last two years it has grown at a rate of 12%.
There are two possibili es of growth from here on : First,
the high growth scenario with average annual growth rate of
12% - In this case, growth trajectory remains same, at 12%.
This could be because of supply side push of low cost ap-
parel from China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and other emerging
suppliers. Under this scenario, world apparel exports would
be worth US$ 854 bn by 2015. Second, a moderate growth
scenario with average annual growth rate of 8% - Modera-
on due to recession in 2008 & 2009 as also possibility of
market satura on can result in growth of 8%. Under this
scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 640 bn
by 2015. Thirdly, low growth scenario with average annual
growth rate of 6% - In this case, under this scenario, world
apparel exports would be worth US$ 550 bn by 2015.
With the moderate growth in world market, the likely
scenario in 2015 will be as follows:
Global Apparel Trade : India vis-a-vis compe tors in
2015
Trade in US$ Bn Avg Growth rate% Share
World 640 8 100
Bangladesh 26 12 4
India 18 10 2.8
Vietnam 32 20 5
This scenario is based on the present growth trends pre-
vailing in the above listed countries including India. At pres-
ent it is ranked sixth, a er China, EU, Hong Kong, Turkey and
Bangladesh. With exports of US$ 18 bn, India is likely to fall
behind Vietnam, Indonesia and Mexico and rank ninth in the
world. With lower cost of labor and industry friendly labor
laws in other countries as well as special trea es exis ng
between US and EU and these countries, India is likely to
slide down in this ranking.
2. T P
2.1 S T T P
Several states in India have been proac ve in promo ng
the technical tex les sector in the country. States like Guja-
rat, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh,
Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Punjab have especially wit-
nessed some success in this effort. Contribu ng 25% to the
na onal technical tex le industry, Gujarat is a major player
in the na onal technical tex le sector. Gujarat’s nearly 900
technical tex le units are engaged in each of the 12 sub-
sectors of technical tex les, and the state is a key producer
of commodity products for the technical tex le and down-
stream industries.
Similarly Tamil Nadu, in turn, is also a fast-growing epi-
center of technical tex les and is producers of agrotex les,
medical technical tex les, sport technical tex les, nonwov-
ens. Coimbatore is also home to one of the country’s eight
Centers of Excellence for technical tex les, COE: Meditech
(SITRA), which specializes in medical technical tex les. Fur-
thermore, the state’s investor-friendly environment has
enabled the development of tex le parks dedicated exclu-
sively to technical tex les. The Government of Tamil Nadu
approved the establishment of US$ 21.30 million technical
tex le park in Pallavada, which is expected to commence
produc on in 2013.
Maharashtra is providing significant s mulus to the do-
mes c technical tex les industry. Maharashtra is a key pro-
ducer of agrotex les, woven technical tex les, ropes and
cordages, indutech, and coir fibre. There are four Centers
of Excellence on technical tex les in the state: COE: Geo-
tech (BTRA), COE: Agrotech (SASMIRA), COE: Non-wovens
(DKTE), and, COE: Sportech (WRA).
The state is developing its first technical tex les park in
Ichalkaranji, which hosts a large number of stakeholders in
the en re tex le value chain, with an investment of US$ 20
million.
Karnataka is a growing player in the Indian technical tex-
les sector. During the state’s Global Investor Meet 2012,
held from June 6-8, 2012, the state a racted US$ 891 million
in investments in its tex le sector alone; these investments
included proposals for the establishment of two technical
tex le mega projects for US$ 60 million and US$ 18.2 million
in Hassan SEZ and Bellary, respec vely.
Rajasthan is yet another state char ng new fron ers in
the na onal technical tex les sector. The state is a renowned
leader in the global tex les sector, and is now encouraging
the growth of technical tex les to advance its leadership
throughout the tex le value chain. Bhilwara has especially
emerged as one of the largest manufacturing centres for vis-
cose-polyester tex les.
COVER STORY ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND
APPAREL INDUSTRY

17
Punjab is also proving to be a promising market for Indi-
an sportech manufacturers. The state hosts amongst India’s
largest sports industries, and is a key supplier to the Indi-
an Raffia, ropes and cordages industries. The state demon-
strates significant poten al for the development of a vibrant
and thriving industry for sports technical tex les.
Madhya Pradesh is another state that is demonstra ng
promising growth in the technical tex les sector.
The above eight states’ industrial, MSME, and tex le
policies have been instrumental in driving the growth of the
technical tex les industry not just locally, but throughout
the country.
3. N N T P R
T A I
The Ministry of Tex les had ini ated the process of re-
viewing the Na onal Tex le Policy, 2000 in order to facilitate
the Indian Tex le Industry gain and sustain a global posi on
in the manufacture and export of clothing and keeping in
view the various changes both on the domes c and interna-
onal fronts. Accordingly, an expert commi ee was set up
to make fresh recommenda ons for the tex le sector reviv-
al. The dra Vision, Strategy and Ac on Plan has been sub-
mi ed a er a detailed process of stakeholder consulta ons
across the en re value chain.
Mr. Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State for
Tex les (Independent Charge)Santosh Kumar Gangwar.
Considering the recommenda ons and feedback re-
ceived at different consulta on mee ngs, the commi ee
iden fied basic concerns in the tex les sector and iden fied
the na onal priori es in the form of a Vision & Strategy and
the Ac on Plan for a aining the targets set for 2024-25. The
Vision projects Indian tex le and apparel exports to grow
from $39 billion at present to $300 billion by 2024-25. This
translates into addi onal investment required of the order
of $120 billion, and in the process around 35 million addi-
onal jobs crea on is expected to take place. Through this
new and improved Tex le Policy, the Government wants
to address concerns pertaining to the availability of skilled
work force, new labor reforms, and to a ract investments in
the tex le sector, in order to provide a future road map for
the tex le and clothing industry.
The growth programme surely appears ambi ous. The
chart compares the projected growth rate, in dollars, over
the next 11 years with the actual growth rate of apparel ex-
ports in the past eleven.
Apparel exports by China to the EU and US in the eleven
years from 2000 grew 6.1 mes but at the beginning of the
period China were not even in the WTO, and tex le exports
from prac cally all developing countries to the EU and US at-
tracted fierce quota barriers. China’s eleven years of growth
coincided with the withdrawal of these barriers, while Ban-
gladesh’s 3.3-fold export increase coincided with a drama c
reduc on in EU import du es levied on Bangladeshi gar-
ments. India, by contrast, apparently expects its tex le and
apparel exports to grow 7.7 mes over eleven years.
No one can disagree with the importance of India creat-
ing 35 million new manufacturing jobs. However, the Indian
tex le and apparel businesses, if they’re going to increase
their share of the world market at all, have to demonstrate
to foreign buyers that they can compete with the kind of
compe on they’ll be up against in the 2020s.
4. R F A P D -
An interna onal study group opined to approach proper
u liza on of money and me by concentra ng upon some
chosen categories of research rather than to approach all
areas. To develop right products, right scien sts, right tech-
nologists and right market are vital and decision makers
should look into it. In todays’s market the product should
be customer driven and be designed and developed in such
a fashion in order to reflect customers percep on of ‘quality
of value’.
4.1. E
Quality of design is a prac ce of using conceptual think-
ing, product designing and produc on planning all being
done at one me. Since the customer evaluates the prod-
uct in terms of value for money and expects quality product
from the manufacturer, these aspects of maintaining the
authen city of product and its quality are extremely import-
ant.
4.2. P G
The customer’s percep on of quality and value –many
a mes taken as ‘product goals’ are required to be met.
Hence there has to be process of evalua on of quality pro-
file of the product.
4.3. N M – R D
Innova on is a key to nay flourishing business and hence
market driven R&D for exploring poten al new products has
to be in place. Naturally custmers’ need analysis has to be
there before undertaking such efforts. While cost compo-
nent has to be also considered, the novel approach in de-
signing such products got to be there to achieve compe ve
edge.
4.4 NW E T C
The organized sector should start diversifying the prod-
uct – mix by arranging produc on of conven onal prod-
ucts with improved a ributes or altogether newer prod-
ucts. They should undertake the gradual strengthening of
technological capability of their manufacturing sector as a
whole and hence they need to install high produc ve new
genera on machinery for producing yarns and fabrics of im-
proved quality at compe ve costs.
4.5 N M P
Presently most of the manufacturers are not fully aware
of all the aspects of today’s market demands, especially ex-
port and they are following ‘product driven marke ng’ in-
stead of ‘market driven produc on’. In today’s market, it is
the ‘consumer delight’ that is preferred over ‘consumer sat-
isfac on’ with product quality. Hence, aggressive strategy
for marke ng has to be adopted, specially for crea ng a new
brand image in order to exploit the new market opportuni-
es likely to be created for sustainable development.
C SROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND
APPAREL INDUSTRY

20
C
The Government of India through the Ministry of Tex-
les is giving all-round policy support to strengthen the po-
si on of Indian Tex le, Apparels and Technical tex le indus-
try, so that a compe ve advantage can be provided to this
mother industry while expor ng their goods. The domes c
market is also expanding and it is important that the do-
mes c consumer also gets their chosen goods with value for
money. The support from state governments for modern-
iza on and infrastructure development over and above that
from the Union government is also quite encouraging and
looking at the vision and goals ,it is understandable that the
industry is strongly backed by the policy support. From the
industry point of view they need to invest in moderniza on,
designing and innova on as well as R&D for being not only
compe ve in quality and costs ,but also innova ng in de-
ligh ng the customers of modern era. The kind of business
opportunity which is going to be created due to China’s de-
cline in produc on capacity as well as worsening situa on in
Bangladesh, the industry should gear itself to deliver such
demands. In the present era of the globalised trade, their
brand image and product value offered are also important.
Sooner or later the tag of sustainability is also going to be
one more emerging factor for providing an edge to newly
offered product.
A :
• “Authors have vastly depended on the informa on provided in
public domain from the sites of MOT (PIB), AEPC, Yarns and Fibres
news bureau Delhi and Mumbai, etcand are gratefully acknowl-
edging these sources”
COVER STORY
COVER STORY
ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND
APPAREL INDUSTRY
NATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICY
BY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE
Employees are the decisive factor for efficient opera-
on of any industry. Hence in the present days, all industries
give emphasis on ‘Human Rela ons’ and not on ‘Industrial
Rela ons’. Due to limited job opportuni es and a sizeable
backlog of unemployment, coupled with the steep increase
in the cost of living, dra ing of a sa sfactory Employment
Policy at the na onal level is essen al.
In earlier days, the work force was available from ru-
ral areas in the state or through migra on of persons from
underdeveloped regions in other states. With the spread
of industrializa on in backward areas under the policy of
balanced growth, there is an in-built check on migra on.
Hence, shortage of workers is felt by almost all industries.
A number of factors are responsible for the development
of this situa on of shortage of workers. With the spread of
educa on and introduc on of beneficial legisla ons like
the Right to Educa on Act, and increased opportuni es to
get educa on with the se ng up of a large number of ed-
uca onal ins tutes, there are signs of aversion on the part
new entrants in the labour market for manual jobs, while
the number of educated-unemployed is bloa ng. MNREGA
is another factor which has resulted in the decline of rural
youths going to towns and ci es for employment. The push
for industrializa on of the underdeveloped areas in differ-
ent States has also curtailed migra on to some extent.
S A
A raw person is recruited as an appren ce. The training
of appren ces is the subject-ma er of the Appren ces Act.
There should not be any cap on the number of appren c-
es for a designated trade, and the individual managements
should be at liberty to recruit as many appren ces as they
deem fit.
The s pend to the appren ces should be paid as per
the policy of individual managements. As a thumb rule, it
could be 60% of minimum wages in the first 3 months, 70%
in the next 3 months on sa sfactory comple on of the 1st
semester of 3 months, 80% in further 3 months on sa sfac-
tory comple on of the 2nd semester of another 3 months
and full minimum wages on successful comple on of the ap-
pren ceship and absorp on as a regular worker. However,
as stated earlier, this rate of payment should only be indica-
ve and without any statutory compulsion.
S
.
Government is rightly giving emphasis on skill develop-
ment. The process of developing voca onal training as a dy-
namic vehicle for enhancing produc vity is proposed to be
accelerated through the network of over 10,000 Industrial
Training Ins tutes[ITIs].
It is a ma er of gra fica on that the tex le industry’s
central body the Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry
has lost no me in se ng up the Tex le Sector Skill Council.
The council should focus on strengthening the innova on,
performance, compe veness and job-crea ng power of
tex le mills. The Council should bring together industry, ac-
ademia including technical ins tutes and HR Personnel. The
objec ve of the Skill Council should be to educate and train
the workforce for advanced manufacturing processes.
Gone are the days when the tex le industry was con-
centrated in some ci es like Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Baroda,
Indore, Delhi, Kolkata etc. Now, the industry is fairly spread
out and exists at a number of centres, and even in rural ar-
eas.
It will be difficult for individual mills to depute workers
to ITIs for training purposes. The reason is that in a com-
posite mills there are 15-20 types of different machines or
even more and to a lesser extent in the case of spinning mills
and powerloom factories. Now, due to lack of mul -skilling,
a worker working on one type of machine is not able to work
on other types of machines. Hence to spare workers directly
responsible to give produc on is a difficult job.
Another issue is that all ITI’s do not have machines re-
quired for tex le mills. In fact, no ITI has any tex le machine.
But, training has to be arranged on the machines on which
the worker is currently working or going to work in future. In
this context, the need for mul -skilling requires no over-em-
phasis.
Hence, a be er op on would be to provide for training

21
SKILLNATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICY
BY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE
within industry (TWI). Under this op on, workers will get
trained on the machines on which they have to work. Gov-
ernment should make available support desired by mills for
introduc on and running of TWI. However, training in some
trades like electrician, plumber, motorman etc could be ar-
ranged in a nearby ITI, where emphasis is on skill develop-
ment in the engineering-related trades.
Apart from improving skills of workers, training must in-
s l in them that progress in life is the fruit of commitment,
dedica on and devo on. The object of training must be to
induce workers to achieve higher job produc vity, reduc on
in wastage and controlling the usage of inputs like power,
water, steam etc, and adop on of disciplined way of life.
B /
.
The Skill Development Council should develop in the
minds of workers a deep sense of commitment and to iden-
fy themselves with the organiza on in which they are
working. There should be no militancy on the part of work-
ers and demands should not be made at the cost of the unit
itself. It is also necessary to decide whether there should be
collec ve bargaining or unit-wise bargaining.
S -
If there are clusters of tex le mills, it will be easier to
implement skill development programmes.
At such clusters, ITI’s should be set up with the installa-
on of a model tex le mill, where workers could be trained
for ugrada on of skills, in different trades.
To promote development of clusters, there should be
schemes to be implemented jointly by Central and State
Governments to provide for following infrastructure -
i) Improved connec vity to nearby towns and ci es by
construc ng good motorable roads
ii) Good motorable roads for interconnec ng different fac-
tories in a cluster with each other.
iii) Providing the facili es of schools, colleges, and other
educa onal ins tutes, and hospital of ESIC.
iv) Uninterrupted supply of potable water and power
v) Establishment of banks, market for day-to-day require-
ments, etc.
Development of such infrastructure facili es will lead to
development of rural areas, considerably reducing migra-
on of popula on to ci es and towns for employment, and
pressure of ever increasing popula on on ci es and towns,
etc. This will go a long way to achieve the objec ve of MN-
REGA.
F L L
The focus of the Labour Laws should be to create ad-
di onal jobs and not reten on of exis ng jobs at any cost.
Labour laws should not overlook the stake of the employer
in the industry.
C /
When one talks about star ng of new factories, one has
also to take into account the possibility of failure of some
factories to run successfully. In some such cases, closure
may become inevitable. For closure of an establishment, it
is necessary to take permission of Government. The denial
of permission for the closure of mills o en leads to illegal
closures and the workers are denied even their statutory
dues. Therefore, closure should be allowed without strings
and permission to sell land without any restraint but with
adequate compensa on to workmen.
C L
Outsourcing is a worldwide phenomenon including hir-
ing contract labour. Of course, regulatory provisions should
be strengthened to enlarge the responsibility of the contrac-
tor and to ensure that contract workers are paid minimum
wages and enjoy the statutory cover of social security mea-
sures provided under the ESI and EPF. This would lead to
a win-win situa on both for the labour and the employer.
Thereupon, the Contract Labour (Regula on and Aboli on)
Act should be renamed as Contract Labour Regula on Act.
M W A .
It is recommended that the minimum wages should be
fixed industry-wise taking into the paying capacity of the en-
terprise. Minimum wages are fixed by a Commi ee which
is specially cons tuted by State Government and which
includes representa ves of State Government, Employers
and Employees. All the stakeholders should have the same
percentage of representa on on the Commi ee. The tex-
le industry consists of organized sector, and decentralized
sector. The representa ves of both the organized sector and
powerlooms should find a place on such Commi ees.
The purpose of the Na onal Labour Policy should be to
create a dynamic and highly collabora ve environment in all
manufacturing units.
ACME -
Reliable 24/7 Power Solu on you can
rely on for all your tex le applica ons
Tex le industries as we know are power
intensive, and are always at a suffering
end due to gap in demand and supply of
power. There are huge losses due to un-
availability of a con nuous power supply
that is free of interrup on or disturbance
as is demanded by their cri cal con n-
uous produc on processes. Unplanned
stops means loss of produc on me.
This in turn leads to compromise on the
quality. Studies have shown that a lot
of tex le mills had to shut down due to
heavy losses caused by frequent power
interrup ons and all other power quality
disturbances
ACME’s breakthrough Lithium-ion
based technology helps tackle power
interrup ons & loss due to power res-
tora on me by providing dependable
back-up power to Tex le Industry. The
technology is built to prevent unforeseen
stops. The solu on handles power-cuts,
varying power quality and even stop in
op mal ways.
We possess a profound knowledge of
tex le industry requirements. The solu-
ons ACME offers are therefore geared
towards ensuring a con nuous and reli-
able power supply, process con nuity, re-
duced costs as well as an op mal balance
between energy produc on and process
requirements.
Precision combined with flexibility
and robust reliability makes LiB technol-
ogy solu on the op mal choice for the
industry.

24
Arvind es up with Gap to bring Iconic American Retail-
er to India First stores to open in Mumbai and Delhi in 2015
Mumbai - Arvind announced that its subsidiary Arvind
Lifestyle Brands Ltd, has ed up with Gap Inc., to open Gap
stores in India. The first stores are expected to open in In-
dia’s two largest ci es - Mumbai and Delhi - star ng with
Gap’s Summer 2015 collec on for adults, kids and babies.
Arvind plans to open about 40 franchise-operated Gap
stores in India.
“India is an emerging, vibrant market and an important
next step in our global expansion strategy,” said Steve Sun-
nucks, Global President of Gap. “Gap is loved around the
world for our American casual style and enduring value and
quality, and we are so pleased to bring our brand and prod-
ucts to life for customers in India.”
As the world’s second most populous country with
more than 1.2 billion people, India represents an import-
ant pla orm to bring American casual style to consumers
around the world.
“More than half of India’s popula on is under 25 and
they are ac vely embracing fashion in today’s retail environ-
ment,” said Ismail Seyis, Vice President of Gap Global Fran-
chise. “We are thrilled to know that our brand awareness is
very high and there is a deep affinity for Gap in India. We
look forward to gaining a deeper understanding of the mar-
ketplace and consumer needs to create the best possible
Gap brand experience for the local consumers.”
“We have a long and successful associa on with Gap
as their vendor partner. Now I am delighted to extend this
partnership to retail and bring Gap stores to India. We see
the addi on of Gap in our por olio as a significant step to
becoming the leading apparel retailer in India” said Mr. San-
jay Lalbhai, Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind Lim-
ited.
“Gap has a huge recall in India and is a favourite of many
Bollywood stars in movies. Our goal is to leverage this huge
awareness, to quickly scale up and build a large business for
Gap Franchise in India” said J. Suresh, Managing Director &
CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd.
Since launching its first franchise-operated store in
2006, Gap Inc. has quickly expanded the interna onal reach
of its brands, which now includes over 300 franchise-oper-
ated stores along with over 3,200 company-owned stores.
The Gap brand now has a presence in nearly 50 countries,
due to the rapid accelera on and commitment to the global
expansion strategy.
ARVIND GAP ARVIND GAP PARTNERSHIP
Tyco Fire Protec on Products Edu-
cates Indian Building Safety Industry on
Fire Detec on
Tyco Fire Protec on Products (“Tyco”)
held a series of seminars in August en -
tled ‘SIMPLEX – Building Safety’, focusing
on the latest advancements in fire detec-
on and alarm systems, across India. The
events held in five major ci es, brought
together more than 700 architects, engi-
neers and end users, such as facility man-
agers and building owners. The seminars
provided insights into the most recent
updates to interna onal fire detec on
codes and standards and showcased the
latest innova ons in fire detec on from-
SIMPLEX – the market-leader in helping
people protect large-scale, complex proj-
ects.
The seminars were part of a broader
programme of ac vi es by Tyco and its
expert distributors in suppor ng speci-
fiers, design engineers and end users in
India. Industry specialists from Tyco, in-
cluding Peter Ryan, Senior Commerciali-
sa on Manager globally responsible for
the SIMPLEX brand, and Rodger Reiswig,
Director of Industry Rela ons, shared
their extensive knowledge on the latest
technological developments and provid-
ed prac cal analysis of the latest updates
to the Na onal Fire Protec on Associa-
on (NFPA) Codes and Standards.
Par cipants learnt about theSIMPLEX
brand’s world-leading, integrated range
of fire protec on solu ons that include
control panels, ini a ng devices, system
accessories, worksta ons and no fica on
appliances. Highlights included“TrueAlert
ES” addressable no fica on appliances,
which offer revolu onary automated self-
test capabili es, and the latest enhance-
ments to “TrueSiteWorksta on”, such as
its mobile client applica on for secure,
convenient access to important life safety
system data at any me, from any loca-
on.
Peter Ryan commented: “The rate of
economic and commercial development
in India brings with it many opportuni es
and some dis nct challenges; ensuring fa-
cili es are safe and well equipped to han-
dle risk is cri cal. As the number of large-
scale, complex construc on projects
increase, specifiers, engineers and end
users need trusted experienced partners
with technological capabili es to help
them protect their people and facili es
efficiently and effec vely.”
“With a networkable, modular de-
sign, fault tolerant architecture and lead-
ing-edge tes ng and service capabili es,
SIMPLEX fire detec on products can
handle the most challenging facili es.
Cost-effec ve to maintain, the products
are upgradable for the life of the facility
and compa ble with past and future SIM-
PLEX fire detec on products.”
Rodger Reiswig added: “We are com-
mi ed to helping end users, specifying
engineers and members of India’s build-
ing and construc on community to keep
informed about interna onal codes and
standards and give them access to mar-
ket-leading fire protec on products. The
seminars provide us with the perfect op-
portunity to share our knowledge and en-
sure our services and products con nue
to meet and an cipate the unique needs
of the Indian market.”

Great Quality
Makes Great Fashion

26
P Y A (A .P ) ,
P . R K (A .P ),
P . T M (A .P ) ,
M V R
S V I T S , I (MP)
. .
A
In this project report I am going to discuss about the
recycling of the plas c bo les into the yarn and fabric. In
this report it is describe how the plas c bo les that are a
non degradable waste which is increasing the waste and one
of the reasons for global warming can be converted into a
useful product that is fiber and than it can be further used
for making yarn and into fabric.
In this report it will be discussed about the making of
the fiber from the plas c bo les and then forma on of yarn.
Further we will study the proper es of the yarn and its appli-
ca on in different field.
I
Today, the u liza on of recycled materials is ma er-of-
fact, although in virtually no other sector is it quite as ad-
vanced as it is in the case of the manufacture of manmade
fibers. Compared to using new plas cs, u lizing recycled ma-
terials can lead to a significant reduc on in energy consump-
on and CO2 emissions. Furthermore, valuable raw material
resources such as oil are preserved and the amount of waste
at dumps is reduced
The clothing industry is a heavy user of resources and
an equally heavy polluter. It is a consumer industry that by
its nature encourages people to buy and discard clothing
according to the fashion of the day rather than in terms of
durability or environmental impact. Environmental fashion,
organic fashion, and recycled fabrics are a empts to alter
the status quo. Organically produced co on avoids the use
of chemicals and poisons but is s ll a minority of what is
available. On the other hand, Australian company INSTYLE
selects wool over recycled PET for its tex les because wool
is locally produced and doesn’t contain the hazardous chem-
icals which are present in PET.
“The fabric made out of the PET fibre is basically poly-
propylene and it is ten mes stronger than a normal poly-
ester fabric. But to weave or knit the yarn made out of PET
bo les needs very heavy machines and ll now Europeans
have mastered in this technology and the looms/kni ng
machines are very expensive,” points out Gautam. Howev-
er, the company is exploring the possibility of manufacturing
PET based fabrics in India.
L :
• Fiber and filaments, expert’s magazine, August, 2013
• Scrap-pet-bo les-to-re-generated-polyester-staple.
O :
1. To make the yarn and fabric from plas c bo les.
2. To study the various proper es of the yarn and fabric
formed.
H
“There’s been a fundamental change in our culture
when it comes to recycling and sustainability,” remarked Wil-
liam L. Jasper, president and CEO of Greensboro, N.C.-based
Unifi Inc., manufacturer of Repreve® recycled fibers and
yarns. “The younger genera on thinks about it differently
than the older genera on. It’s really much more important
now, and it’s going to con nue to be. People are star ng to
recognize there are only so much landfill space and only so
much oil.”
Post-industrial (PI) recycling has been prac ced for
years, and the first recycled-content tex le products con-
tained primarily or exclusively PI materials, which would in-
clude trimmings le on the cu ng room floor in apparel and
other tex le product manufacturing facili es.
In recent years, post-consumer (PC) content has in-
creased as more and more consumer recycling programs
have been established in communi es across the United
States and in other countries worldwide.
T :
W ?
• polyester fleece or polar fleece is a so , fluffy,
two-sided pile fabric which is really warm, really
durable, resists moisture and dries quickly
• popular for outdoor wear since the early 1990s be
cause it’s lighter and warmer than wool
• has also been used for more unusual garments
e.g. underwear for astronauts, ear-warmers for
winter-born calves
• the polymer used to make polyester fibres is known
as polyethylene terephthalate or PET; the same is
used for drink bo les
• some or all of the yarn can be made from recycled
bo les
W PET?
• PET is the name of the resin used to make transpar
ent, light, sha erproof bo les for so drinks, juices,
alcohol, water, detergents, soap etc
• PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate
• bo les are the most significant use for PET
• PET is fully recyclable
M :
The recycling process – the basis for further processing:
Expert processing of waste is the decisive prerequisite
for manufacturing high-end recycled yarns. It enables the
u liza on of recycled materials in place of new material
with merely a small change to the processing method. To
this end, there are two different processing approaches, de-
scribed as chemical or mechanical recycling.
In the case of chemical recycling, the old plas c is bro-
ken down into its original monomers by means of glycolysis,
hydrolysis or methanolysis. These monomers are then used
to manufacture new plas c granulate through polymeriza-
on. To this end, the quality of the recycled product is very
close to that of new materials and it can be used to spin
high-end yarn.
Compared to mechanical recycling, the chemical pro-
cedure requires greater energy consump on. Add to this the
fact that due to the high capital investment requirements,
this op on is only available to large-scale manufacturers, as
cost efficiency can only be achieved from annual capaci es
of 50,000 tons and more.
For this reason, mechanical recycling has been the
TECHNICALRECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC

27
clearly predominant recycling method to date. Here, plas c
waste is melted directly without any chemical decomposi-
on. The melt can then be either processed directly into the
end product or first granulated into chips. There is a current
trend towards systems for in-house recycling of produc on
waste in the form of chips. Recycling systems available on
the market can process various forms of waste, including
solid start-up lumps, for instance. To this end, the waste is
shredded, melted and re-granulated. Processed in this way,
it can then be simply reintroduced to the produc on cycle.
H -
?
It all starts when you toss a PET bo le (labeled #1) into
a recycling bin. These bo les are sorted at a recycling facility
and bundled together in large bales. The bales of PET bot-
tles are then taken to a PET reclaiming facility. The bo les
are thoroughly cleaned, the labels and caps are removed,
and the bo les are separated by color (the clear bo les will
produce a white-ish polyester yarn and the green bo les
produce a green-ish yarn).
Once they’re sorted, the bo les go into a grinder where
they are ground into small flakes. The flakes are tossed in
hot air to give them a hard candy coa ng and then dried to
remove any remaining moisture. Next, the dry, crispy flakes
are shoved through hot pipes to melt them into a thick liq-
uid. That liquid gets filtered through a dye plate with 68 ny
holes. As the liquid polyester flows through the holes, it
forms filaments that are more than five mes finer than hu-
man hair. The filaments pool and harden and are then sent
over rollers where air entangles the filaments to create a
dental floss-like yarn. The machine spools the yarn and then
pulls it over hot metal rollers to stretch it and realign the
polyester molecules. The resul ng yarn is ready to be woven
into polyester clothing.
PET
• PET bo les are sorted from other recyclable plas cs
such as PVC and HDPE, as the reclaimed material (PET
flakes) is most valuable when it is most pure
• bales of recycled bo les are sorted manually or auto-
ma cally on the basis of colour, and to remove any for-
eign material or non-PET lids and bases
• the plas c is washed in a sterilising bath, a er which
the clean containers are dried and crushed into ny
flakes
• the flakes are washed again to ensure the purest possi-
ble final product
• these flakes become the raw material for new prod-
ucts
• for yarn, the light-coloured flakes are bleached, while
flakes from darker bo les are used for yarn that will be
dyed a dark colour; the flakes are melted in a vat and
forced through spinnerets to produce fibres
P :
R F
• 10 plas c bo les = 1 pound of polyester fiber
• 1 ton (2000) lbs of plas c bo les recycled saves 3.8 bar-
rels of oil
• 1 million plas c bo les recycled saves 250 barrels of
oil
• 1 million plas c bo les recycled eliminates 180 metric
tons of CO2 emissions from being released into the at-
mosphere
• 10% of all US oil consumed (2 million barrels per day) is
used to make plas cs
• Recycling plas c bo les takes 8 mes less energy than to
produce an equivalent amount of new ones
• 150 fleece garments made from recycled plas c bo les
save 1 barrel of oil
• 500 t-shirts made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1
barrel of oil
• 50 back packs made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1
barrel of oil
• Supplying the plas c bo les that Americans consume
each year requires 47 million barrels of oil and releases
1.0 billion pounds of CO2 into the atmosphere
F Y C C
• FIBERS: All natural and manmade fibers and blends
• OPEN-END: .4Ne. to 14Ne. or .67Nm to 23.6Nm. in sin-
gles and plies
• DREF SPUN: Customized solu ons and proprietary capa-
bili es
• TWISTING: Up to 16 components
P
S
When the PET bo le is returned to an authorized re-
demp on center, or to the original seller in some jurisdic-
ons, the deposit is partly or fully refunded to the redeem-
er. In both cases the collected post-consumer PET is taken
to recycling centers known as materials recovery facili es
(MRF) where it is sorted and separated from other materials
such as metal, objects made out of other rigid plas cs such
as PVC, HDPE, polypropylene, flexible plas cs such as those
used for bags (generally low density polyethylene), drink car-
tons, glass, and anything else which is not made out of PET.
Post-consumer PET is o en sorted into different col-
or frac ons: transparent or uncolored PET, blue and green
colored PET, and the remainder into a mixed colors frac on.
The emergence of new colors (such as amber for plas c beer
bo les) further complicates the sor ng process for the recy-
cling industry.
P
TECHNICAL RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN &
P

29
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30
The sorted post-consumer PET waste is crushed, pressed
into bales and offered for sale to recycling companies. Co-
lourless/light blue post-consumer PET a racts higher sales
prices than the darker blue and green frac ons. The mixed
color frac on is the least valuable.
F
The further treatment process includes crushing, wash-
ing, separa ng and drying. Recycling companies further
treat the post-consumer PET by shredding the material into
small fragments. These fragments s ll contain residues of
the original content, shredded paper labels and plas c caps.
These are removed by different processes, resul ng in pure
PET fragments, or “PET flakes”. PET flakes are used as the
raw material for a range of products that would otherwise
be made of polyester. Examples include polyester fibers (a
base material for the produc on of clothing, pillows, carpets,
etc.), polyester sheets, strapping, or back into PET bo les.
M
Melt filtra on is typically used to remove contaminants
from polymer melts during the extrusion process. There is
a mechanical separa on of the contaminants within a ma-
chine called a ‘screen changer’ a typical system will consist
of a steel housing with the filtra on media contained in
moveable pistons or slide plates that enable the proces-
sor to remove the screens from the extruder flow without
stopping produc on. The contaminants are usually collected
on woven wire screens which are supported on a stainless
steel plate called a ‘breaker plate’ a strong circular piece of
steel drilled with large holes to allow the flow of the polymer
melt. For the recycling of polyester it is typical to integrate a
screen changer into the extrusion line. This can be in a pellet-
izing, sheet extrusion or strapping tape extrusion line.
Once the flakes are dried up, they pass through a process
called electrosta c separator, which produces magne c field
to separate PET flakes from metal, besides different kinds
of plas c par cles and other contamina ons. The cleaned
flakes of reclaimed PET are then forwarded to produc on
sec on for the final product to produce fibre. According to
Gopal Agarwal, CFO, GPL, the sor ng and processing of raw
material is a key factor for maintaining uniform quality of fin-
ished product on constant basis as raw material is not having
uniform characteris cs, and quality of finished goods may
have significant degree of varia ons.
H
?
Conver ng it into garment or home furnishing products
is an interes ng transi on. It actually happens by re-mel ng
the PET bo les and then thick material is pressed through
spinnerets, leaving them as filaments - just like in case of the
produc on of virgin synthe c fibres. Filaments can be used
as endless yarns or curled and cut into length-defined fibres
for spinning. A er weaving, the fabric is converted into gar-
ment, preferably fleece pullovers, jackets or sweatshirts.
The recycled PET thread or yarn can be used either alone
or together with other fibres to create a very wide variety
of fabrics. Tradi onally these fabrics were used to create
strong, durable and rough products, such as jackets, coat,
shoes, bags, hats and accessories. However, these fabrics are
too rough on the skin and could cause irrita on. Therefore,
they are not used on any clothing that may irritate the skin,
or where comfort is required. But in today’s new eco-friend-
ly world, there has been more of a demand for “Green”
products. As a result, many clothing companies have started
looking for ways to take advantage of this new market and
new innova ons in different ways to process the fabric, to
use the fabric, or blend the fabric with other materials for
be er finish so as to be more wearer-friendly.
T
The processing of the melt from recycled material can
in principle be carried out in the same way as in the case
of u lizing new granulate. The filaments are cooled, drawn,
textured and wound following mel ng and spinning. Fun-
damentally, recycling applica ons in yarn manufacturing in-
clude: staple fibers, carpet and tex le filaments as well as
TECHNICALRECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC
PET bo les are separated from other plas-
cs in a materials recovery facility.
Bales of crushed PET bo les sorted
according to color: blue, transparent,
and green.
Bales of crushed PET bo les.

OCT - DEC 2014 ISSUE

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