Companion Planting - Foodshed Project, Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

Companion Planting
Many plants have natural substances in their roots, flowers, leaves etc. that can alternately repel
(anti-feedants) and/or attract insects depending on your needs. In some situations they can also help
enhance the growth rate and flavor of other varieties. Experience shows us that using companion
planting through out the landscape is an important part of integrated pest management. In essence
companion planting helps bring a balanced eco-system to your landscape, allowing nature to do its'
job. Nature integrates a diversity of plants, insects, animals, and other organisms into every
ecosystem so there is no waste. The death of one organism can create food for another, meaning
symbiotic relationships all around. We consider companion planting to be a holistic concept due to
the many intricate levels in which it works with the ecology.
By using companion planting, many gardeners find that they can discourage harmful pests without
losing the beneficial allies. There are many varieties of herbs, flowers, etc. that can be used for
companion plants. Be open to experimenting and find what works for you. Some possibilities would
be using certain plants as a border, backdrop or interplanting in your flower or vegetable beds where
you have specific needs. Use plants that are native to your area so the insects you want to attract
already know what to look for! Plants with open cup shaped flowers are the most popular with
beneficial insects.
Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an enjoyable, healthy environment.
Have fun, let your imagination soar. There are many ways you can find to incorporate these useful
plants in your garden, orchard, flower beds etc.

ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium,
phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve just about
any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through rocks!
Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural
rainfall to survive.
AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it's
leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory ground beetles. Eat the
young leaves in salads.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also
said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of
any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant
with coriander.
ARTEMISIAS: see wormwood.
ASPARAGUS: Friends: Aster family flowers, dill ,coriander, tomatoes, parsley, basil, comfrey and
marigolds. Avoid: Onions, garlic and potatoes.
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well with peppers,
oregano, asparagus and petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and
mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and
moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good
combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.
For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they are getting in
and congregating. They should leave.

BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company
for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and
cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants because beans fix
nitrogen from the air into the soil so the nitrogen used up by the corn and grains are replaced at the
end of the season when the bean plants die back. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a
good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep beans away
from the alliums.
BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Great for
attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making
them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Beets are also beneficial to
beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.
Companions for beets are lettuce, onions and brassicas. Beets and kohlrabi grow perfectly together.
Beets are helped by garlic and mints. Garlic improves growth and flavor. Rather than planting
invasive mints around beets use your mint clippings as a mulch.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato
hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals
to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in
calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via
increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and
strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance
the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you
have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil
with plenty of lime to flourish. Avoid planting with mustards, nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, etc).
BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts
hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)
CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth
and health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and
cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number
of predatory ground beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor.
Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue, grapes and pole
beans.
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots so it's also compatible next to
shallow rooted crops. Plant it with strawberries. Caraway can be tricky to establish. The flowers
attract a number of beneficial insects especially the tiny parasitic wasps. Keep it away from dill and
fennel.
CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill and parsnips away from
carrots. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One
drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the
carrots will still be of good flavor.
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have
found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of
mint throughout and the mice split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice
and ants. Smells good and very safe.

CELERY: Companions: Bean, cabbage family, leek, onion, spinach and tomato. Flowers for celery:
cosmos, daisies and snapdragons. Foe: Corn.
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to
hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil.
Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will
reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil
conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you
grow in the garden.
CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes, lettuce and broccoli for improved growth and flavor. Keeps
aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples, carrots, tomatoes,
brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away
from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly.
Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will
need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of
chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews. Avoid
planting near beans and peas.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with
those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum)
White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a picture of the painted
daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.
CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion and is especially good to plant under
grapevines. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the
woolly aphid. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid
and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the
number of predator ground beetles.
COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in.
Comfrey is beneficial to avocado and most other fruit trees. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap
crop for slugs.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray
for spider mites. A partner for anise.
CORN: Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium, lamb's quarters, melons, morning glory,
parsley, peanuts, peas, potato, pumpkin, soybeans, squash and sunflower. A classic example is to
grow climbing beans up corn while inter-planting pumpkins. The corn provides a natural trellis for
the beans, pumpkins smother the weeds and helps corn roots retain moisture. Corn is a heavy feeder
and the beans fix nitrogen from air into the soil. The beans do not feed the corn will it is growing but
when the bean plants die back they return nitrogen to the soil that was used up by the corn. A win-
win situation. Another interesting helper for corn is the weed Pig's Thistle which raises nutrients
from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them. Keep corn away from celery and tomato plants.
COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.
CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same
conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn
plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for
the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent
against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial

predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from
cucumbers.
DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels
nematodes!
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots, caraway or tomatoes. Best
friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some
degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are
suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn
and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere
away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. Do plant dill in an
appropriate spot for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are
beautiful.
EGGPLANT: Plant with amaranth, beans, peas, spinach, tarragon, thyme and marigold. Eggplant is
a member of the nightshade family and does well with peppers. Avoid planting fennel near eggplant.
ELDERBERRY: A spray made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly,
cucumber beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them.
Elderberry leaves added to the compost pile speeds up the decomposing process.
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the
Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self
sows.
FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draws Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The
foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have dessert! It is important to mention that
Four O'clock are also poisonous to humans and animals. Please be careful where you plant them if
you have children and pets. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a
bushy growth form.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. It also benefits apple trees, pear trees, cucumbers, peas,
lettuce and celery. Garlic accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the
garden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their
pores and when garlic tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the plant roots. Has value in
offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers
have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer
away. It's certainly worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill
whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is safe for
use on orchids too.
GERANIUM: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn,
tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Geraniums help to distract beet leafhoppers, carrier of the curly top
virus.
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil, beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas, or
blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the soil fertility
for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your vines under Elm or Mulberry trees.
HEMP: Repels many types of beetles which attack brassicas.
HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato bugs.
Horseradish increases the disease resistance of potatoes. There are some very effective insect sprays
that can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also

repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield anti-fungal properties when a tea is
made from it.
HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the many tiny
flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and Syrid flies. The larval forms of
these insects parasitize or otherwise consume many other insects pests. It grows where many others
fail to thrive and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a long season, attracting beneficial insects
almost as long as you are likely to need them. For best results use horehound directly as a companion
plant. Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.
HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea beetles. Do not
plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one preference among bees and some beekeepers rub
the hive with it to encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of
the mint family making it safer for interplanting.
KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel
insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and
Japanese beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If you
have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.
KOHLRABI: May be planted with cucumber, onion and chives. Kohlrabi and beets are perfect to
grow with one another! Do not plant kohlrabi with pole beans, pepper, strawberry or tomatoes.
LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!
LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract Japanese beetles.
They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too.
LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding
and beneficial insects. Lavenders can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly, and
lavender planted under and near fruit trees can deter codling moth. Use dried sprigs of lavender to
repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.
LEEKS: Use leeks near apple trees, carrots, celery and onions which will improve their growth.
Leeks also repel carrot flies. Avoid planting near legumes.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs.
Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to
keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!
LETTUCE: Does well with beets, bush beans, pole beans, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, onion,
radish and strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground beetles. A large
plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in flavor.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad
nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds
you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract
spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate
vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have
been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the
plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be
used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds. Do not plant
French marigolds next to bean plants.

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also
overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild
bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.
MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet
marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
MELONS: Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash. Other suggested helpers for melons are
as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general
pest protection.
MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health
of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts
hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where
you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial. We have found that placing mint (fresh or
dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them off!
MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the
garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them away. This is a poisonous plant.
MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to
cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Do
not plant near cauliflower. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other
pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does
attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer.
It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of
fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is
among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to
grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds
of nasturtiums are all edible and wonderful in salads!
NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and
calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it
then makes an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the
nettles' leaves contain formic acid which "stings" you.
ONIONS: Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other
companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes.
Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted
with strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!
OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli,
cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle.
Also benefits grapes.
PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on
tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go
to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses
when planted around their base. Rose problems? Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away
from one another.
PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn. Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole
Beans, Carrots, Celery, Chicory, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish, Spinach,
Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Do not plant peas with onions.

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the menthol content in
mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.
PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, geraniums,
marjoram, lovage, petunia and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They
do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant them
near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the
pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so
tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is
harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be
harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until maturity.
PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium
diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as
insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra,
Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano, parsley and rosemary.
PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel
chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Warning: Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It should not
be planted where cats might ingest it and never rubbed onto their skin.
PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican
bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The
leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and
hover flies eat aphids.
POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage family, carrot, celery,
corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas, petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect
them from scab by putting comfrey leaves in with your potato sets at planting time. Horseradish,
planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Don't plant these around
potatoes: asparagus, cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash family, sunflower,
turnip and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight
contaminating each other.
PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters
bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves
and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper substitutes. If purslane is growing in your
garden it means you have health, fertile soil!
RADISH: One of the workhorses for the garden. Companions for radishes are: radish, beet, bush
beans, pole beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip, peas, spinach and
members of the squash family. Why plant radishes with your squash plants? Radishes may protect
them from squash borers. Anything that will help keep them away is worth a try. Radishes are a
deterrent against cucumber beetles and rust flies. Chervil and nasturtium improve radish growth and
flavor. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed will also help fight corn borers.
Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle radishes are favorites of flea beetles. Plant these at 6 to 12 inch
intervals amongst broccoli. In one trial, this measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Radishes will
lure leafminers away from spinach. The damage the leafminers do to radish leaves does not stop the
radish roots from growing, a win-win situation. Keep radishes away from hyssop plants, cabbage,
cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and turnips.
RHUBARB: A good companion to all brassicas. Try planting cabbage and broccoli plants your

rhubarb patch watch them thrive. Rhubarb protects beans against black fly. Some other interesting
companions for rhubarb are the beautiful columbine flowers, garlic, onion and roses! It helps deter
red spider mites from the columbines. A spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves, which contain the
poison oxalic acid may be used to prevent blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean
beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and
colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.

RUE: Deters aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and Japanese beetles
in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are roses, fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and
lavender. To make it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the
smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage.
A pretty perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may
cause skin irritation in some individuals.
RYE: An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The
allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm
transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter
cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or
rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many
beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with
variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities.

SPINACH: Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the spinach. Gets along with
cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion, peas, strawberries.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony
scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a
perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back in
not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.

SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to corn. They repel
chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Why not try soybeans, they are good for you. They are many tasty
ways to prepare them.

SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage
deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs
and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage,
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects
and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages
cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love it.
SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a
problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in the garden. Step back and watch the
ants herd the aphids onto them. We have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The
sunflowers are so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and you will have nice seed heads
for the birds to enjoy. Sunflowers also attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Talk about a
symbiotic relationship!
SWEET ALYSSUM: Direct seed or set out starts of sweet alyssum near plants that have been
attacked by aphids in the past. Alyssum flowers attract hoverflies whose larva devour aphids.
Another plus is their blooms draw bees to pollinate early blooming fruit trees. They will reseed freely
and make a beautiful groundcover every year.

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is
not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only
work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen.
At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying
insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a
bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid
to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition
to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.

Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock can feed on it as it
is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed either as it may germinate in livestock
fields.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance
growth and flavor of vegetables.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You may want to
use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to
grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.

TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber,
garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and
sow thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your
carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth
and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm,
improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards
tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato
growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating
each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as
they will get walnut wilt: a disease of tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.

WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast
on the foliage which in turn kills them.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent
to most insects. Don’t plant wormwood with peas or beans. A tea made from wormwood will repel
cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively. The two best varieties for
making insect spray are Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs
which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the most toxic
wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on food
crops.
YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of
yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory
wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted
among them. Yarrow has so many wonderful properties to it and is an ingredient in our own
ZINNIA: Pretty zinnias attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Alternately the pastel varieties of
zinnias can be used as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. All zinnias attract bees and other insect
pollinators.

Plant Disease

Spraying Basics  1. It is best to use any type of spray in the early morning or the cool of evening.
Do not spray when temps are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit! Your plants may "burn" or have a
reaction to what you are using in excessive heat. This is known as "phytotoxicity."  2. Always
perform a test on a small portion of the plant material first. Wait 24 hours to observe any negative
reaction. Proceed if there is no damage.  3. Really and truly...more is not better. If you are not
getting good results don't increase the strength of these remedies without testing first.  4. Target just
the area you need to treat. Be careful... try not to harm the good bugs! You don't want to run off your
allies.  5. When working with sprays or dusts always protect your exposed skin and face. Some of
these ingredients can be very irritating to your skin, eyes and mucous membranes, especially any hot
pepper sprays.

Specific Disease Controls
Apple tree scab: Grow any member of the onion family around the base of the tree. Chives work the
best. You can also make a tea from chives and use as a spray on your apple trees to help protect from
scab.
Brassicas: Keeping the soil pH around 7.0 to prevent club root disease.
Peach tree leaf curl: This is a common disease of peach trees. Sprays of horsetail tea, garlic (look
further down the page for recipes) and seaweed can help to prevent this problem. Growing chives
underneath them also helps.
Neem Oil will help prevent rust disease, black spot and can act as a general fungicide.
Potato scab: When planting your potato sets put some wilted comfrey leaves in with them to prevent
scab. Also keeping the soil for your potato patch with a pH of 5 or below (acid) or a pH of 7 or above
(alkaline) to prevent scab.
General Disease Controls
Apple Cider Vinegar Fungicide  For leafspot, mildew, and scab

Mix 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar (5% acidity) with one gallon water and spray in the morning on
infested plants. Good for black spot on roses and aspen trees too.
Baking Soda Spray  For anthracnose, early tomato blight, leaf blight and spots, powdery mildew,
and as a general fungicide  Sodium bicarbonate commonly known as baking soda has been found to
posses fungicidal properties. It is recommended for plants that already have powdery mildew to hose
down all the infected leaves prior to treatment. This helps to dislodge as many of the spores as
possibly to help you get better results. Use as a prevention or as treatment at first signs of any of the
diseases.

To make: Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil with one gallon of water.
Shake this up very thoroughly. To this mix add 1/2 teaspoon of pure Castile soap and spray. Be sure
to agitate your sprayer while you work to keep the ingredients from separating. Cover upper and
lower leaf surfaces and spray some on the soil. Repeat every 5-7 days as needed.

Chive Spray:  For preventing apple scab and downy mildew on cucumber, pumpkin and zucchini.

To make: Put a bunch of chopped chives in a heat proof glass container, cover with boiling water.
Let this sit until cool, strain and spray as often as two to three times a week.
Compost and Manure Teas  Many people have success with manure tea keeping blight and other
pathogens away from plant. Soak the area around plants and use as a foliar spray. Do not use on
seedlings as it may encourage damping-off disease.  Fill a 30 gallon trash can with water. Let sit for
24 hours to evaporate the additives (use rain water if you can). Add about 4 shovels worth of manure
to this and cover. Let it sit for 2-3 weeks, stirring once a day. Strain and apply as needed.

Various manures supply nutrients as follows:
Chicken manure: nitrogen rich: use for heavy feeders such as corn, tomatoes and squash.
Cow Manure: potash: use for root crops.
Rabbit manure: promotes strong leaves and stems.
Horse manure: leaf development.
Compost Tea: Make and use just the same as you would the manure tea. This is another terrific
reason to compost all those prunings, grass clipping and kitchen wastes. Or you can use our
HumAcid for a ready made foliar spray with all the goodness of compost!
Corn and Garlic Spray Fungus Preventative  This blend is surprisingly potent preventative spray
to protect your plants.
To make: Gather a handful of corn leaves, clematis leaves (any kind) and as much of the papery
outer leaves of garlic as you can. Process thoroughly in a blender. The mix with sufficient
water to make a thin liquid. Let sit for an hour, strain and spray on plants as a preventative.
Couch Grass Rhizome Tea:  for preventing mildew and fungus disease  To make: Put a handful of
fresh rhizomes in a glass pot. Pour 1 quart of boiling water over rhizomes, cover and let steep for 10
minutes. Strain, let cool and use right away.

Elder Leaf Spray:  Elder leaves have fungicidal properties and may be useful against mildew and
black spot diseases.

To make: simmer 8 ounces of leaves in 16 ounces of water for 30 minutes. Stir this thoroughly,
then strain. Take 16 ounces of warm water and mix with 1 tablespoon of Castile soap. Add
soap mixture to the elder water, spray as needed. Note: Set your sprayer to a coarse or large
droplet setting as this mixture will tend to plug a fine setting.
Garlic Fungicide Spray 1:  For leaf spot and mildews
To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24
hours or longer. Strain.
Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castile soap to
this.
Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container
this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1
pint of water and spray.
Garlic Fungicide Spray 2:   Fungicide and Insect repellent

Put in a blender: 1 whole head of garlic, 3 cups water, 2 Tbs canola oil, 4 hot peppers and a whole
lemon. Blend until finely chopped. Steep mixture overnight. Strain through fine cheesecloth. Use at a
rate of 4Tbs per gallon of water. Store unused portion in the refrigerator.
Horseradish  (preventative for fungal disease)  Penn State University announced in 1995 that
minced horseradish holds promise in decontaminating wastewater and now says it may clean
contaminated soils as well!  Penn State's center for Bioremediation and Detoxification reports that
minced horseradish combined with hydrogen peroxide can completely remove chlorinated phenols
and other contaminants found in industrial wastes. Experiments involve applying the mixture directly
to tainted soils or growing horseradish in contaminated soil and roto-tilling the roots just before
applying hydrogen peroxide!    The cleansing properties of horseradish have been known for more
than a decade, however creating a purified form has been far too expensive. This method has proved
to be just as effective, but at a fraction of the cost!    Horseradish Tea: You can also make a tea
from horseradish roots to use as a preventative spray for fungal diseases. This is especially useful
against brown rot in apple trees. The white flesh of the horseradish root also contains significant
amounts of calcium, magnesium and vitamin C.  To make: Process one cup of roots in food
processor till finely chopped. Combine this with 16 ounces of water in a glass container and let soak
for 24 hours. Strain liquid, discard the solids. Now mix the liquid with 2 quarts of water and spray.
Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment  To prevent bacterial and fungal problems on outdoor plants use
hydrogen peroxide! Hydrogen peroxide will prevent the disease spores from adhering to the plant
tissue. It causes no harm to plants or soil, however don't use on young transplants or direct seeded
crops until they have become established. Warning: Always test on a small portion of plant tissue
first to check for any negative reactions. Do not proceed if there is any damage to plant tissue. Do not
substitute food grade H2O2 for the common H2O2. Spray plants with undiluted 3 percent hydrogen
peroxide that you can buy most anywhere. Be sure to cover tops and bottoms of leaves. Do this once
a week during dry weather and twice a week in wet weather. This works as a preventative. If you
already have problems use this as a direct treatment.
Milk for Mildew  Milk with its' natural enzymes and simple sugar structures can be used to combat
various mildews on cucumber, asters, tomato, squash and zinnia foliage. This works by changing the
pH on the surface of the leaves, so they are less susceptible to mildew. Use a 50/50 mixture of milk
and water. Thoroughly spray plants every 3 to 4 days at first sign of mildews or use weekly as a
preventative measure.
Milk can also be mixed at a rate of 2 ounces milk to 18 ounces of water and used as a spray every 7
to 10 days to treat mosaic disease on cucumber, tomato and lettuce.
Tomato Virus Protective Spray  To prevent the many viruses that attack tomato plants this simple
remedy really works! The antitranspirant protects the plant surface against disease spores. The skim
milk provides the tomato plant with calcium. A calcium deficiency is common in tomato
plants.  Antitranspirants can be used to protect many plants against bacterial disease before they
attack. They are harmless and will not block the pores of the plant tissue.  To make: Mix 1/2
teaspoon of antitranspirant (like Cloudcover, Wiltpruf etc.) with 8 ounces of skim milk, and 1 gallon
of water. Spray plants. Clean out your sprayer when done and flush with fresh water..  NOTE: an
equivalent of prepared powdered milk may be substituted for the skim milk.  Removing leaves on
the lower portion of the plant may help lessen contact with disease spores and certainly won't hurt
the plant.

Seedlings: Damping off disease  Always use a sterile growing medium like mixes with vermiculite
and perlite for your seed starting as these should not contain the fungi that cause damping-off. Water
your seedlings with warm water that has been left to sit for an hour or more to dissipate most of the
chemicals that are present in tap water. Using cold water stresses the seedlings leaving them
vulnerable to harmful organisms.
1. Chamomile Spray: Chamomile tea is an excellent preventative for damping-off. Use on seed
starting soil, seedlings and in any humid planting area. Chamomile is a concentrated source of
calcium, potash and sulfur. The sulfur is a fungus fighter. This can also be used as a seed soak prior
to planting.  To make: Pour 2 cups boiling water over 1/4 cup chamomile blossoms. Let steep until
cool and strain into a spray bottle. Use as needed. This keeps for about a week before going rancid.
Spray to prevent damping off and anytime you see any fuzzy white growth on the soil. Chamomile
blossoms can be purchased at health food stores and usually grocery stores.
2. Seaweed Spray: A seaweed spray which is so rich in nutrients and everything that seedlings
require can also be used to prevent damp-off. Make a strong mixture adding 2/3 cup of kelp
concentrate to 1 gallon of water, spray.
3. Horsetail Tea (Equisetum arvense)  The common horsetail plant, which is very invasive, is rich
in silicon and helps plants to resist fungal diseases via increasing their light absorbing capabilities.
Use on peach trees to control peach leaf curl. Use on most plants to combat powdery fungi, and on
vegetables and roses to control mildew. You can use this on seedlings and plants in closed
environments too! Great in greenhouses! Prevents damping off. Horsetail is one of the ingredients in
Golden Harvest Fertilizer.
To make:
In a glass or stainless steel pot, mix 1/8 cup of dried leaves in 1 gallon of unchlorinated water.
Bring to a boil, then let simmer for at least 1/2 hr. Cool and strain.
Store extra concentrate in a glass container. Will keep for a month.
Dilute this mix, adding 5-10 parts of unchlorinated water to one part concentrate. Spray plants that
show any symptoms of fungal type disease once every 4 days. Spray your seed starting
mixtures to prevent damping off.
4. Spread finely milled sphagnum peat moss on the soil surface of your seed beds or flats.
5. The best damping off remedy: Powdered cinnamon!  Sprinkle powdered cinnamon on the
soiless medium surface. Don't worry if you get cinnamon on your plants as it will not hurt the tender
seedlings. We have been using this method for years with near 100% effectiveness.

African violets: Use chamomile tea to produce the best blooms they have ever had! Another plus is
the tannic acid in the tea helps the plants retain moisture making this a good choice for other plants
too. This works almost as well as our Golden Harvest Natural Fertilizer does for violets.

To make: Pour 2 cups boiling water over 1/4 cup chamomile blossoms. Let steep until cool and
strain bottle. Use as needed. This keeps for about a week before going rancid. Chamomile
blossoms can be purchased at health food stores and usually grocery stores. Use as you would
any African violet fertilizer.
Brassicas: Keeping the soil pH around 7.0 to prevent club root disease.

Chapped hands: Make a very strong tea of spearmint leaves. Rub on your hands to heal them.

Cut flowers: To make them last longer try this: Combine 8 ounces of water with 8 ounces of
gingerale or clear soda (7-Up) and 1/2 teaspoon bleach. The sugar in the soda provides the flowers
with carbohydrates (energy) and the bleach acts to control bacteria.

Ferns Ailing? A bit of caster oil can help save your ferns: add 1 tablespoon of castor oil, 1
tablespoon of mild shampoo to a quart of warm water. Treat each fern with a 4 ounces of the tonic.

Onions: To raise onions for winter storage grow them from seeds. For summer eating grow them
from sets.

Plant Markers: If you write on your wooden or plastic plant markers with pencil instead of a
permanent marker they will last much longer!

Potato scab: When planting your potato sets put some wilted comfrey leaves in with them to prevent
scab. Also keeping the soil for your potato patch with a pH of 5 or below (acid) or a pH of 7 or above
(alkaline) to prevent scab. As an alternative pine needles may be used instead of comfrey leaves.

Rhizome or tuber rot: When dividing perennials with rhizomes or tubers dust the freshly cut parts
with sulfur to prevent rotting.

Natural Rooting Hormone:  Rooting hormones available as liquids or powders contain a synthetic
form of indolebutyric acid (IBA). IBA in it's natural state is a plant hormone or growth regulator.
You can make your own rooting hormone from the ever versatile willow tree. Willow contain a high
concentration of IBA however the effectiveness can vary by the amount of twigs you use, the level of
IBA that is present when you take your cuttings and the amount of time that you soak your mixture.

Any willow (salix) trees or shrub species will work.

Cut a good handful of willow twigs. Then cut them into two to three inch pieces. Put them in a glass
or plastic container with a few inches of lukewarm water. Soak for 24-48 hours. You will then use
the water to soak your cuttings in overnight. Another method is to water your soil with willow water
into which you have placed your cuttings. Two applications should be sufficient. Other types of
cuttings may be rooted directly in a jar of the water. You will need to make a fresh batch of willow
water for each use.

Plant Willows: Why?  Willows consume carbon as they grow. This means they effectively reduce
the amount of atmospheric carbon dioxide!

When the catkins open in early spring they provide an abundant food source for pollinating insects
when little else is available to them.

Willows can be planted as a sound barrier, to filter waste and as a wild bird habitat.

Willows are also humus builders for the soil provided from their leaves falling at the end of the
season. A good excuse not to rake them up.

Little Bits of Trivia

Monarch Butterflies and Milkweed Plants  The growing larvae (caterpillars) eat milkweed leaves.
These leaves contain toxins- poisonous chemicals. These toxins don’t hurt the caterpillar, but they do
make the caterpillar poisonous to most predators. Because it eats milkweed leaves as a caterpillar, the
monarch butterfly is also poisonous. The survival of the monarch butterfly depends on this self-
defense system provided by the milkweed.

Sap from milkweed was used by pioneers as a cure for warts

The airborne fluffy parachute of the seed was used by Native Americans to insulate moccasins.

The dried empty seed pods were used as Christmas tree decorations by early pioneers.

The boys and girls from Wisconsin schools collected 283,000 bags of milkweed fluff for use in
military life jackets during World War II.

It is used as an indicator of ground-level ozone air pollution.

BIRDS!  Woodpeckers are voracious ant eaters. You may see them also pick up ants in their beaks
and crush them on their feathers. What are they doing this for? Crushing the ants bodies releases
tannic acid which in turn protects the bird from parasites!

Hummingbirds, those wonderful creatures, favor brilliant red and orange flowers the most.
Following are some of their favorite flowers:

Perennials: Coral Bells (heuchera), Indian paintbrush, columbine, hollyhock, jewelweed, bee Balm
(monarda), phlox, daylilies, cardinal flower, lupines, penstemons, butterfly weed- which is
very pretty and attracts butterflies too like it's name.
Annuals: 4 O'clocks, cleome, petunias, impatiens, scarlet runner bean, red salvia, verbena, zinnias,
lantana
Shrubs and Vines: Butterfly bushes, creeping trumpet vine, rose-of-sharon, flowering quince,
trumpet honeysuckle
BEES!!  Did you know that the flowers bees love usually close at night? The reason is bees only fly

during the daytime. Bees are attracted to flowers that are bright in color and have strong fragrance.

Bees are responsible for the existence of many flowers. without bees over 100.000 plant species
would cease to exist!

Bees, feeling the rise in humidity, will usually go back in their hive to avoid a coming rainfall.

FLOWERS!!!  The largest rose in the world resides in Tombstone, Arizona. Rosa Bankiae planted
in 1855 at the Rose Tree Inn now covers over 8,000 square feet on a massive trellis. If you are ever
in Tombstone this would be worth seeing.

The most expensive flowers: a hyacinth bulb from a variety called " king of Great Britain" sold in
1774 for L100. This equates to over 200,000 dollars in today's economy!

A scarlet and white tipped tulip (Semper augustus) sold for the amount of 5,500 florins. This would
give it a current value of 70,000 dollars today!

TREES!!!!  The oldest living tree is the bristlecone pine (pinus aristata). The oldest one found is
4,900 years old. What an amazing specimen to have survived through so many eras! It resides in the
Wheeler Peak area of Nevada.

The gingko tree dates back to the Mesozoic era. The same tree today closely resembles its' ancestor
and is also known as the "maidenhair" tree. Possibly one of the first fruit trees the ginko produces an
edible fruit that is similar to a persimmon.

The fastest growing tree in the world is the acacia. Certain varieties can grow as much as 2 1/2 feet a
month, which translates into a little over an inch a day! Fast and furious the acacia does not live
much longer than 30 years.

Ever wonder where that cork in the wine bottle comes from?  It comes from the cork oak which is
the only tree that can survive "bark harvesting" as it has two layers of bark.

BEEFY TOMATO  The biggest tomato on record weighed in at a hefty 7 pounds 12 ounces. It was
grown by Gordon Graham of Oklahoma.

Did you know?  Slugs are hermaphrodites: they all have male and female reproductive systems.
Yes, they can mate with themselves!!! They can stretch to 20 times their normal length enabling
them to squeeze through openings to get at food.

Cinch bugs overwinter by producing an antifreeze chemical that protects their innards from
becoming frozen. A plant that everyone detests was found in an area where several feet of rock and
plastic sheeting were removed. This area had been untouched for at least 20 years. At the bottom was
pure white bindweed, quite alive!

Tall grass: The giant bamboo originating from Asia can reach heights of 50 feet! It is a true grass.

Earth Worms: Have the power to move stones that weigh 50 times their own weight. They also
ingest soil and organic matter equal to the amount of their body weight each day.

~

Companion Planting INCREASES Food Production by 250 Percent
One of the goals of research in South Africa is to look at ways to boost food production with the
practice of intercropping (companion planting, or growing crops together) a cereal grain crop, like
sorghum, with bean crops. We have been intercropping sorghum with legumes planted in row of zai
pits.

Why grow beans? Being legumes, bean crops can improve soils by converting nitrogen from the air
into forms that crops can use. The crops we are working with are quite tolerant of dry conditions and
produce vines that cover the ground, protect6ing it from the intense tropical sun and creating an
environments in which soil microorganisms, can thrive. Moreover, the legumes provide the farmer
with a harvest of dried, edible beans.

What are zai holes? The zai system originated in West Africa as a way to cope with drought and hard
encrusted soil. Drought tolerant grain crops such as sorghum or millet are planted in pits about 12
inches, 6 inches deep. With the excavated soil thrown to the downhill side, the pits act as tiny water
catchment basins, making maximum use of what little rainfall is received. Several handfuls of
manure are traditionally placed in each pit, concentrating nutrients near the crop roots.

Have we seen any benefits? The results we have so far are from year one of a sorghum-legumes
intercropping strategy within the zai system. Most of the legumes we have tried have grown very
well, but cowpea produced the most dried beans.

It increase total grain production from 400 kilograms per hectare when grown sorghum alone to
about 1400 kilograms per hectare when grown together with cowpeas.

It also increased soil nitrogen as well as nitrogen taken up by the sorghum plants.

All of this is very encouraging from the perspective of the smallholder farmer, because it means they
have a way to improve their soils while greatly increasing food production.

~
NATURAL SOLUTIONS in Africa by Using Companion Planting
Across East Africa, thousands of farmers are planting weeds in their maize fields (Companion
Planting). Bizarre as it sounds, their technique is actually raising yields by giving the insect pests
something else to chew on besides maize.

It is better than pesticides and a lot cheaper, said Ziadin Khan, whose idea it is.

And it has raised farm yields by 60-70 Percents.

In East Africa, maize fields face two major pests, and Khan has a solution to both. The first is an
insect called the stem borer. True to its name, it s larvae eat their way through a third of the regions'
maize most years.

But Khan discovered that the borer in even fonder of a local weed, napier grass. By planting napier
grass in their fields , farmers can lure the stem borers away from the maize and into a honey trap. For
the grass produces a sticky substance that traps and kills stem borer larvae.

The second major pest is Striga, a parasitic plant that wrecks 10 billion dollars worth damage on
maize crops every year, threating the livelihoods of one hundred million Africans.

Weeding Striga is one of the most time consuming activities for millions of African women farmers,
says Khan.

But he has an antidote: another weed, called Desmodium. It seems to release some sort of chemical
that Striga does not like. At any rate, where farmers plant Desmodium between rows of maize, Striga
will not grow.

Khan's cheap fixes for Striga and stem borer are spreading like wildfire through the fields of East
Africa.

Trials on more than 2,000 farms are finished. It is out of our hands now, says Khan's boss Hans
Herren , who is the director of the International Centre for Insect Physiology and Ecology in Nairobi.

The ideas are being taken up by framers in countries such as Ethiopia where we have never worked.

Khan's novel way of fighting pests is one of the host of Low-Tech Innovations boosting
production by 100 percent or more on millions of poor Thirds World farms in the past
decade.

This Sustainable Agriculture just happens to be the biggest movement in Third World Farming
today, dwarfing the tentative forays in genetic manipulation.
It seems peasant farmers have a long way to go before they exhaust the possibilities of traditional
agriculture

~

COMPANION PLANTING BOOKS
(Intercropping Gardening, Mixed Vegetables Gardening, Polycultures Gardening):

Carrots Love Tomatoes and Roses Love Garlic: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful
Gardening; by Louise Riotte
http://www.librarything.com/work/141405
http://books.google.com/books?id=MtFvQnYDy_sC
http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/37688263 bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

A-Z of Companion Planting; by Pamela Allardice
http://books.google.com/books?id=OD4iHQAACAAJ

A Crash Course on Companion Planting; by Ralph Cummings
~ Nook book allbookstores.com bing.com bookfinder.com yahoo.com

Bob's Basics Companion Planting; by Bob Flowerdew
http://books.google.com/books?id=LyWr_nVIKNYC

Biological Pest Control, including: Bird, Bacillus Thuringiensis, Predation, Companion Planting,
Disease Resistance In Fruit And Vegetables, Biocide, Parasitoid, Pyrethrum, Beetle Bank, Scoliidae,
Pyrethrin, Fire Ant, Integrated Pest Management, Tansy; by Hephaestus Books
http://books.google.com/books?id=OGmQSQAACAAJ

Companion Gardening in New Zealand: Working with Mother Nature; by Judith Collins
http://books.google.com/books?id=gvJIHQAACAAJ

Companion Planting; by Jeannine Davidoff - South African Organic Gardener
http://www.blurb.com http://www.yahoo.com http://www.google.com

~
Companion Planting; by Margaret Roberts
http://books.google.com/books?id=U4FZAAAACAAJ
http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/139975988

Companion Planting; by Richard Bird
http://books.google.com/books?id=5xsGAAAACAAJ

Companion Planting and Intensive Cultivation; by Nancy Lee Maffia
http://books.google.com/books?id=cQfatgAACAAJ

Companion Planting Boost Your Garden's Health, Secure It From Pests And Grow More Vegetables ;
by Ephraim Acre http://www.amazon.co.uk http://www.dealzilla.co.uk
http://www.yahoo.com http://www.google.com http://www.bing.com
~ Kindle book allbookstores.com bing.com bookfinder.com yahoo.com

Companion Planting for Australian Gardens; by Kelly Morris
http://books.google.com/books?id=OXicOO4HMFUC

Companion Planting For Beginners; by Wendi Eaton

Companion Planting for Successful Gardening; by Louise Riotte

Companion Planting for Veggies; by Annette Welsford
http://www.companionplantingguide.com http://www.librarything.com/work/8981096

Companion Planting Guide; by Julie Villani

~
Companion Planting In Australia; by Brenda Little
http://books.google.com/books?id=WcV0PQAACAAJ

Companion Planting in New Zealand; by Brenda Little
http://books.google.com/books?id=y0EtOAAACAAJ

Companion Planting Made Easy; by Editors of Organic Gardening Magazine
google.com bing.com bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

Companion Planting: Successful Gardening the Organic Way; by Gertrud Franck
http://books.google.com/books?id=C7M4AQAACAAJ

Companion Plants and How to Use Them: A Guide to Planting the Right Plants to Ward off Plant
Diseases; by Helen Louise Porter Philbrick
http://books.google.com/books?id=GqyMAAAACAAJ

Complete Guide to Companion Planting: Everything You Need to Know to Make Your Garden
Successful; by Dale Mayer
http://books.google.com/books?id=32xpkvpXyvIC

Garden Companion to Native Plants. Selecting, Planting and Caring for over 400 Australian Native
Plants; by Allan Seale
http://books.google.com/books?id=mW_gPAAACAAJ

~
Good Companions: A Guide to Gardening with Plants that Help Each Other; by Bob Flowerdew
http://books.google.com/books?id=AnF5qClHJqsC

Good Neighbors: Companion Planting for Gardeners; by Anna Carr
http://books.google.com/books?id=2yNIAAAAYAAJ

Great Garden Companions: A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful, Chemical-Free Vegetable
Garden; by Sally Jean Cunningham
http://books.google.com/books?id=bYOPlJt6SfAC

Growing Together: the A to Z of Companion Planting; by Susan Tomnay
http://books.google.com/books?id=zJafPQAACAAJ

How to Grow World Record Tomatoes: a Guinness World Record Holder, Reveals His
All-Organic Secrets. His organic methods work with other crops; by Charles Wilber
http://librarything.com/work/1752882
http://books.google.com/books?id=hQdIAAAAYAAJ
http://worldcat.org/oclc/40948283 bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

Intercropping: A Step Towards Sustainability; by Haseeb ur Rehman
http://books.google.com/books?id=0a8RTwEACAAJ

Jackie French's Guide to Companion Planting in Australia and New Zealand; by Jackie French
http://books.google.com/books?id=aAvWAAAACAAJ

~
List of Companion Plants; by Frederic P Miller
http://www.alibris.com
http://books.google.com/books?id=y1EzygAACAAJ

My Garden Companion: A Complete Guide for the Beginner, With a Special Emphasis on Useful
Plants and Intensive Planting in the Wayside, Dooryard, Patio, Rooftop, and Vacant Lot ; by Jamie
Jobb
http://books.google.com/books?id=MbhFAAAAYAAJ

Organic Gardening Books, Eco Farming Books, DVD's, Newsletter and Much More
http://www.acresusa.com

Planting The Future: Saving Our Medicinal Herbs; by Rosemary Gladstar
http://books.google.com/books?id=ndk42wxMBzUC

Primer of Companion Planting: Herbs and Their Part in Good Gardening ; by Richard B. Gregg
http://books.google.com/books?id=ZtXIMAEACAAJ

Principles and Practice of Plant Conservation; by David R. Given
http://books.google.com/books?id=tHvwAAAAMAAJ

Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening: Companion Planting; by Susan McClure
http://books.google.com/books?id=nRdVNgAACAAJ

~
Sharing the Harvest: A Citizen's Guide to Community Supported Agriculture ; by Elizabeth Henderson
librarything.com/4557502 books.google.com/13sDbCIz0ooC worldcat.org/oclc/144328213
http://localharvest.org

Secrets of Companion Planting: Plants That Help, Plants That Hurt; by Brenda Little
http://books.google.com/books?id=byjoAAAACAAJ

Soil Mates: Companion Plants for Your Vegetable Garden; by Sara Alway
http://books.google.com/books?id=TV_wRQAACAAJ

South African Planting and Companion Planting Guide; by Jeannine Davidoff

Sustainable Gardening, including: Raised Bed Gardening, Energy-efficient Landscaping,
Permaculture, Masanobu Fukuoka, Companion Planting, Biological Pest Control, Leaf Mold, Spent
Mushroom Compost, Green Roof, Agroecology, Wildlife Garden, Mulch ; by Hephaestus Books
http://books.google.com/books?id=qhaLtgAACAAJ

Tending The Wild: Native American Knowledge and the Management of California's Natural
Resources; by M. Kat Anderson
http://books.google.com/books?id=WM--vVFtnvkC

The A-Z of Companion Planting; by Jayne Neville
http://books.google.com/books?id=f80bQwAACAAJ

~
The Best Gardening Ideas I Know: Foolproof way to start any seed, Compost piles that work,
Practical companion planting, More vegetables in less space, Succession planting chart, Natural
weed controls, Mulching with weeds, Midsummer feeding; by Robert Rodale
http://books.google.com/books?id=H3esPwAACAAJ

Climate Change, Intercropping, Pest Control and Beneficial Microorganisms ; by Eric Lichtfouse
http://books.google.com/books?id=RNsyKTwTfgY

Intercropping And The Scientific Basis Of Traditional Agriculture; by Donald Quayle Innis
http://books.google.com/books?id=pPk4AQAAIAAJ

The Complete Book of Herbs: A Practical Guide to Cultivating, Drying, and Cooking With More
Than 50 Herbs; by Emma Callery
http://books.google.com/books?id=GehUsea2PqcC

The Complete Guide to Companion Planting: Everything You Need to Know to Make Your Garden
Successful; by Dale Mayer
http://books.google.com/books?id=32xpkvpXyvIC

The Cook and the Gardener: A Year of Recipes and Writings for the French Countryside; by Amanda
Hesser
http://books.google.com/books?id=7mYoAAAACAAJ

~

The Ecology of Intercropping; by John H. Vandermeer
http://books.google.com/books?id=CvyyTVq_o70C

The Huge Book of Organic Gardening and Companion Planting; by Billie Rex
http://books.google.com/books?id=ZuKIZwEACAAJ

The Natural Garden: A New Zealander's Guide to Companion Gardening, Natural Pest Control and
Soil Health; by Michael Crooks
http://books.google.com/books?id=0oS6AQAACAAJ

Your Backyard Herb Garden: A Gardener's Guide to Growing Over 50 Herbs Plus How to Use Them
in Cooking, Crafts, Companion Planting and More; by Miranda Smith
http://books.google.com/books?id=Zxxm0awYC3QC
http://www.worldcat.or/oclc/34722846 bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

SWAP your Books with Other People
http://www.scribd.com/doc/81071919
http://www.calameo.com/books/00115999712e89ac6bda5

~
ORGANIC GARDENING TECHNOLOGIES
INCREASING Plant Yields by over 400
PERCENT
http://www.scribd.com/doc/75160339
http://www.calameo.com/books/0010511867e619fa5b018

Remineralize your Soil ~ Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants, Healthy People
http://remineralize.org

Soil Regeneration with Volcanic Rock Dust
http://calameo.com/books/00062163120384c54b373
http://scribd.com/doc/30402511
Volcanic Rock Dust added to soil can double plant or lawn growth.

Compost Tea Making: For Organic Healthier Vegetables, Flowers, Orchards, Vineyards, Lawns; by
Marc Remillard
librarything.com/11197572 books.google.com/PZHObwAACAAJ worldcat.org/oclc/744677817

A Worm Tea Primer: how to make and use worm tea for a vibrant organic garden; by Cassandra
Truax
http://vermico.com

SoilSoup Compost Tea ~ Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants, Healthy People
http://soilsoup.com
SoilSoup Compost Tea is an excellent soil builder and organic fertilizer.
Soil Soup is very easy to handle and use.

Growing Solutions ~ Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants, Healthy People
http://www.growingsolutions.com

Zing Bokashi: Recycling Organic Waste with Effective Microorganisms (EM)
http://www.zingbokashi.co.nz

An Earth Saving Revolution (Volume 2) EM: Amazing Applications to Agricultural,
Environmental, and Medical Problems; by Dr. Teruo Higa ~ EM = Effective Microorganism
http://books.google.com/books?id=drOMQQAACAAJ

~

ORGANIC GARDENING and Eco Gardening
~ Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants, Healthy People

Advanced Aeroponics; by Chad Peterson

20 Best Small Gardens: Innovative Designs for every Site and Situation; by Tim Newbury
http://books.google.com/books?id=2i2qQgAACAAJ

101 Ideas for Veg from Small Spaces: Delicious Crops from Tiny Plots; by Jane Moore
http://books.google.com/books?id=VcYUOgAACAAJ

101 Organic Gardening Tips; by Sheri Ann Richerson
http://books.google.com/books?id=UDI-YgEACAAJ

300 of the Most Asked Questions About Organic Gardening; by Charles Gerras; Rodale Organic
Gardening Magazine
http://books.google.com/books?id=94VFAQAAIAAJ

365 Down-To-Earth Gardening Hints and Tips; by Susan McClure
http://books.google.com/books?id=EvJL7JsrCq8C

1,001 Old-Time Garden Tips: Timeless Bits of Wisdom on How to Grow Everything Organically,
from the Good Old Days When Everyone Did; by Roger Yepsen
http://books.google.com/books?id=UzQHAAAACAAJ

~
A Beginners Guide to Organic Vegetable Gardening: Introduction to Composting, Worm Farming,
No Dig Raised and Wicking Gardens Plus More; by Mel Jeffreys

A Brief Guide to Organic Gardening; by Irish Seed Savers Association
http://www.irishseedsavers.ie
http://www.google.com http://www.bing.com

A Child's Organic Garden: Grow Your Own Delicious Nutritious Foods, Australia ; by Lee Fryer
http://books.google.com/books?id=QFPfAQAACAAJ

A Guide to Organic Gardening in Australia; by Michael J. Roads
http://books.google.com/books?id=ZNGaAQAACAAJ

A Patch of Eden: America's Inner-City Gardeners; by H. Patricia Hynes
http://books.google.com/books?id=QqBHAAAAMAAJ

A Treatise on the Management of Peach and Nectarine Trees: Either in Forcing-Houses, or on Hot
and Common Walls. Containing an Effectual and Easy Process for Preventing Them from Being
Infected with Any Species of Insects; by Thomas Kyle
http://books.google.com/books?id=kTREAAAAYAAJ
http://www.echobooks.org

A Year on the Garden Path: A 52-Week Organic Gardening Guide; by Carolyn Herriot
http://books.google.com/books?id=5y9VYgEACAAJ

~
Adobe and Rammed Earth Buildings: Design and Construction; by Paul G. McHenry
http://books.google.com/books?id=q4GU71IMn3kC

Advanced Organic Gardening (Rodale's Grow-It Guides); by Anna Carr
http://books.google.com/books?id=nhrSAAAACAAJ

Advancing Biological Farming: Practicing Mineralized, Balanced Agriculture to Improve Soils and
Crops; by Gary F. Zimmer
http://books.google.com/books?id=nifUZwEACAAJ

Agriculture in the City: A Key to Sustainability in Havana, Cuba; by Maria Caridad Cruz
http://books.google.com/books?id=qySx0yq9Jd4C

Agricultural Options of the Poor: A Handbook for Those Who Serve Them; by Timothy N. Motts
http://www.echobooks.org http://www.google.com http://www.bing.com

All-Time Best Gardening Secrets; by the Editors of Organic Gardening Magazine
http://books.google.com/books?id=jpFHYAAACAAJ

Allergy-Free Gardening: The Revolutionary Guide to Healthy Landscaping; by Thomas Leo Ogren
http://books.google.com/books?id=UnAlAQAAMAAJ

~
Allotment Gardening: An Organic Guide For Beginners; by Susan Berger, the Organic Centre, Ireland
http://books.google.com/books?id=gtlYoks42I4C

Alternatives to Peat; by Pauline Pears
http://books.google.com/books?id=O6KaXwAACAAJ

Amaranth to Zai Holes: Ideas for Growing Food Under Difficult Conditions; by Laura S. Meitzner
http://books.google.com/books?id=__RHAAAAYAAJ

An Earth Saving Revolution (Volume 2) EM: Amazing Applications to Agricultural,
Environmental, and Medical Problems; by Dr. Teruo Higa ~ EM = Effective Microorganism
http://books.google.com/books?id=drOMQQAACAAJ

Any Size, Anywhere Edible Gardening: The No Yard, No Time, No Problem Way to Grow Your
Own Food; by William Moss
http://books.google.com/books?id=G2D8TmIR_agC
~ Kindle book ~ Nook book allbookstores.com bing.com bookfinder.com

Anything Grows: Ingenious Ways To Grow More Food In Front Yards, Backyards, Side Yards, In
The Suburbs, In The City, On Rooftops, Even Parking Lots; by Sheryl London
http://books.google.com/books?id=je44AQAAIAAJ

~
Apartment Gardening: Plants, Projects, and Recipes for Growing Food in Your Urban Home; by
Amy Pennington
librarything.com/11367320 books.google.com/UNa9bwAACAAJ worldcat.org/oclc/759838812

Aquaponic Gardening: A Step-By-Step Guide to Raising Vegetables; by Sylvia Bernstein
http://books.google.com/books?isbn=1550924893

Asphalt to Ecosystems: Design Ideas for Schoolyard Transformation; by Sharon Gamson Danks
http://books.google.com/books?id=GzhxmxBsn5oC

Attracting Native Pollinators: The Xerces Society Guide Protecting North America's Bees and
Butterflies
http://books.google.com/books?id=iTwPEDL3nvMC

Australia and New Zealand Guide to Compost Gardening: A Guide to Gardening Without Digging:
by David Hornblow
http://books.google.com/books?id=QyanAQAACAAJ

Backyard Farming: Growing Your Own Fresh Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs in a Small Space; by Lee
Foster
http://books.google.com/books?id=ZINjAAAACAAJ

Back to Eden; by Jethro Kloss - he was curing cancer in the 1930's
librarything.com/86035 books.google.com/blIQgUVUy_8C worldcat.org/28157353

~
Backyard Organic Gardening in Australia; by Brenda Little
http://books.google.com/books?id=KpGlYgEACAAJ

Backyard Bounty: The Complete Guide to Year-Round Organic Gardening in the Pacific Northwest;
by Linda A Gilkeson
http://books.google.com/books?id=xSOTCeV_m4gC
~ Kindle book ~ Nook book bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

Balcony Gardening : Growing Herbs and Vegetables in a Small Urban Space; by Jeff Haase
http://books.google.com/books?id=DrJ-lwEACAAJ

Basic Book of Cloche and Frame Gardening; by W E Shewell-Cooper
http://books.google.com/books?id=YYmbAAAACAAJ

Basic Book of Natural Gardening; by Wilfred Edward Shewell-Cooper
http://books.google.com/books?id=oqTpRwAACAAJ

Basic Vegetable Gardening: Small-Scale Vegetable Production in Tropical Climates; by E.D. Adams
http://www.google.com
http://www.bing.com

Best Ideas for Organic Vegetable Growing; by Glenn F. Johns
http://books.google.com/books?id=p_V-ntrP768C

~
Best Methods for Growing Fruits and Berries; by Rodale Organic Gardening Magazine
http://books.google.com/books?id=SFwrlAEACAAJ

Better Vegetable Gardens the Chinese Way: Peter Chan's Raised-Bed System; by Peter Chan
http://books.google.com/books?id=TVsjAQAAMAAJ

Bible Plants for American Gardens; by Eleanor Anthony King
http://books.google.com/books?id=M1FfDLxT_DoC

Big Ideas for Northwest Small Gardens; by Marty Wingate
http://books.google.com/books?id=66yNsFIpGNoC

Biodynamics for the Home Garden, New Zealand; by Peter Proctor
http://books.google.com/books?id=NQtlLwEACAAJ

Biofertilizers for Sustainable Agriculture; by Arun K. Sharma
http://books.google.com/books?id=d7WOAAAACAAJ

Biological Transmutations; by C. Louis Kervran
http://books.google.com/books?id=FFoGAAAACAAJ

Bioshelter Market Garden: A Permaculture Farm; by Darrell Frey
librarything.com/10703491 books.google.com/Vx8enVBW5jwC worldcat.org/oclc/601130383

~
Botanica's Organic Gardening: The Healthy Way to Live and Grow; by Judyth McLeond.
http://books.google.com/books?id=5N1yjCNM8fIC

Breaking Through Concrete: Building an Urban Farm Revival; by David Hanson
http://books.google.com/books?id=pW1r0u95OLEC

Building and Using Cold Frames; by Charles Siegchrist
http://books.google.com/books?id=_YZgFQ4fwSUC

Building Soils Naturally: Innovative Methods for Organic Gardeners; by Phil Nauta
http://books.google.com/books?id=aJdtMAEACAAJ

Building With Cob: A Step-by-step Guide; by Adam Weismann
http://books.google.com/books?id=ri45AQAAIAAJ
~ Kindle book allbookstores.com bing.com bookfinder.com

Bush-Fruits: A Horticultural Monograph of Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries, Currants,
Gooseberries, and Other Shrub-Like Fruits; by Fred W. Card
http://books.google.com/books?id=NHP3f3W2hH0C

Charles Dowding's Vegetable Course; by Charles Dowding
http://books.google.com/books?id=IPeNZwEACAAJ

~
Chico's Organic Gardening and Natural Living; by Frank Bucaro
http://books.google.com/books?id=G9axOAAACAAJ

City Bountiful: A Century of Community Gardening in America; by Laura J. Lawson
http://books.google.com/books?id=lgopAQAAMAAJ

City People's Book of Raising Food; by Helga Olkowski
http://books.google.com/books?id=t04WPwAACAAJ

City Permaculture, Volume 1: Sustainable Living in Small Spaces; by Earth Garden Publication
http://www.bing.com

City Permaculture, Volume 2; by Earth Garden Publication
http://www.bing.com

Clay Soil Gardening - Australasian Edition; by Michael Carr

Cold-Climate Gardening; by Lewis Hill
http://books.google.com/books?id=YYac91iUGr8C

Comfrey: Fodder, Food and Remedy, United Kingdom; by Lawrence Donegan Hills
http://books.google.com/books?id=VfQ4AQAAIAAJ

~
Comfrey Report: The Story of the World's Fastest Protein Builder and Herbal Healer; by Lawrence D.
Hills
http://books.google.com/books?id=BGc4RAAACAAJ

Commonsense Gardening in Australia: Organic Growing for All Gardeners ; by Panorama Books
http://books.google.com/books?id=MtkAuAAACAAJ

Common Sense Organic Gardening; by Warner Fremont Bower

Community Gardening, New Zealand; by Stephen Trinder
http://books.google.com/books?id=WYrpLQAACAAJ

Complete Organic Gardening: A Comprehensive Guide to Better Gardening and Increased Self
Sufficiency; by Jonathan Sturm
http://books.google.com/books?id=pFsAAQAACAAJ

Compost and Mulch Gardening; by Rodale Organic Gardening Magazine
http://books.google.com/books?id=0lrWAAAAMAAJ

Compost Gardening: A New Time-Saving System for More Flavorful Vegetables, Bountiful Blooms,
and the Richest Soil You've Ever Seen; by by Wilfred Edward Shewell-Cooper
http://books.google.com/books?id=oHJlNQAACAAJ

~
Compost, Vermicompost, and Compost Tea; by Grace Gershuny
http://books.google.com/books?id=Xub8aChfFsIC

Composting: The Ultimate Organic Guide to Recycling Your Garden, Australia; by Tim Marshall
http://books.google.com/books?id=lGpz4mFf6-QC

Composting for Manure Management; by The Staff of BioCycle
http://books.google.com/books?id=U44dAQAAMAAJ

Composting Inside And Out: The Comprehensive Guide To Reusing Trash, Saving Money And
Enjoying The Benefits Of Organic Gardening; by Stephanie Davies
http://books.google.com/books?id=ITTfPbwXyNkC

Country Wisdom and Know-How: Everything You Need To Know to Live Off the Land; by Storey
Publishing
http://books.google.com/books?id=x1wezh3aP34C

Contour Farming with Living Barriers; by World Neighbors
http://books.google.com/books?id=5sXdlAEACAAJ

Converting to Organic Farming; by Nicolas Lampkin
http://books.google.com/books?id=CPZHAAAAYAAJ

~
Converting to Organic Farming; by David Younie
http://books.google.com/books?id=1844MwEACAAJ

Converting to Organic Farming; by Hartmut Vogtmann

Creative Sustainable Gardening for the Twenty-First Century, New Zealand; by Diana Anthony

Creative Vegetable Gardening; by Joy Larkcom
http://books.google.com/books?id=lrk9PgAACAAJ

Crop Rotation and Cover Cropping: Soil Resiliency and Health on the Organic Farm; by Seth Kroeck
http://books.google.com/books?id=vp5xYRVkIzAC

Cultivating Community: Principles and Practices for Community Gardening as a Community-
Building Tool; by Karen Payne
http://books.google.com/books?id=1ELkGwAACAAJ

Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate; by
Cathy Cromell
http://books.google.com/books?id=zrINAAAACAAJ

~
Desert Gardening: Fruits and Vegetables; by George Brookbank
http://books.google.com/books?id=Fmzr1uGU4jkC

Desert Harvest: A Guide to Vegetable Gardening in Arid Lands; by Jane Nyhuis
http://books.google.com/books?id=AVdYpwAACAAJ

Digging Deeper: Integrating Youth Gardens into Schools and Communities, A Comprehensive
Guide; by Joseph Kiefer
http://books.google.com/books?id=Hu_ZAAAACAAJ

Don't Throw It, Grow It: 68 Windowsill Plants From Kitchen Scraps; by Millicent Selsam
http://books.google.com/books?id=71kCTjFilNMC
~ Kindle book ~ Nook book bookfinder.com addall.com booksprice.com

Down to Earth: The Absolute Beginner's Guide to Growing Organic Vegetables, New Zealand; by
David Prosser
http://books.google.com/books?id=g9K1PQAACAAJ

Dr. Shewell-Cooper's Basic Book of Fruit Growing, United Kingdom; by Wilfred Edward Shewell-
Cooper
http://books.google.com/books?id=3G2ZPAAACAAJ

~
Drip Irrigation for Every Landscape and All Climates: Helping Your Garden Flourish, While
Conserving Water; by Robert Kourik
http://books.google.com/books?id=pj5_AAAACAAJ

Earthbag Building: The Tools, Tricks and Techniques; by Kaki Hunter
http://books.google.com/books?id=5TLCbGmcGLUC

Easy Garden Projects to Make, Build, and Grow: 200 Do-It-Yourself Ideas to Help You Grow Your
Best Garden Ever, by Barbara Pleasant
http://books.google.com/books?id=y9GpDTUwG4kC

Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting; Lyn Bagnall
http://books.google.com/books?id=ZTgmRxGxb-0C

Eat More Dirt: Diverting and Instructive Tips for Growing and Tending an Organic Garden; by Ellen
Sandbeck
http://books.google.com/books?id=9L-bI_M_WskC

Eat the Weeds; by Ben Charles Harris
http://books.google.com/books?id=tB1FAAAAYAAJ

~
Eat Your Garden: Organic Gardening for Home and Schools; Leonie Shanahan
http://books.google.com/books?id=VwGJSQAACAAJ

ECHO Appropriate Technologies Book; by ECHO

Eco-Farm, An Acres U.S.A. Primer: The definitive guide to managing farm and ranch soil fertility,
crops, fertilizers, weeds and insects while avoiding dangerous chemicals; by Jr. Charles Walters
librarything.com/326739 books.google.com/hKodAQAAMAAJ worldcat.org/oclc/35908160

Ecological Gardening: Your Path to a Healthy Garden; by Marjorie Harris
http://books.google.com/books?id=T0jLCKrsV8AC

Edible Flower Garden; by Rosalind Creasy
http://books.google.com/books?id=AwGJVW948mwC

Edible Flowers Hydroponic Kit; by Institue of Simplified Hydroponics
carbon.org google.com bing.com yahoo.com

Edible Forest Gardens; by Dave Jacke
http://books.google.com/books?id=s_vwAAAAMAAJ

Edible Landscaping in the Desert Southwest: Wheelbarrow to Plate; by Catherine Crowley
http://books.google.com/books?id=uDio8-sC2wMC

Companion Planting - Foodshed Project, Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

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Companion Planting - Foodshed Project, Sudbury, Ontario, Canada