Colour correction theory for level 3 NVQ

1. Colour Correction
~Level 3 Technical

2. Colour Correction Theory
 Health and Safety
1. Relevant hair tests
2. Preparation of work area
3. PPE

3.  Science of hair
Melanin is the natural pigment that is
responsible for hair depth and tone. There
are 4 natural pigments that are present in
virgin hair colours. Eumelanin is the
black/brown pigment responsible for depth,
Pheomelanin is the red/yellow pigment
responsible for tone.
Base 1 Base 10

4. Every persons hair will contain a combination of these pigments, but ALL
pigments will be present.
A level 9 will contain lots of yellow pigments, some red pigments, few brown
and even less black pigment.
A level 2 will contain lots of yellow, red, brown and black pigment.

5. Pre-pigmentation
 Bleached hair has transparent pigment molecules. Peroxide opens the cuticle allowing the
bleach molecules to enter into the cortex.
 Oxidisation occurs within the hair strand turning the melanin molecules transparent.
 Bleaching occurs in this order – Black, Red-Brown, Red-Orange, Orange, Yellow, Pale
Yellow
 Pre-pigmentation replaces the lost pigments, filling the hair shaft up with melanin
molecules resulting in the hair tint lasting longer once recoloured.

6.  Things to determine before doing the service are
1. Porosity of hair
2. Desired target shade
 Porosity will affect colour fade. Pigment molecules can be washed out due to cuticle layer being damaged.
 If the target shade is 2 – 3 shades darker than current, you will need to pre-pigment.
 It is advised to only use semi’s or quasi’s to pre-pig as they tend to have built in porosity equalisers that will lead
to a more even result. They are also easier to remove in case of any errors.
Target Base Base 7-10 Base 6- 4 Base 3 - 1
Pigment required Gold Copper Red
E.G Your client has level 9 blonde hair and wants to go to a level 4, you will need
to pre-pigment the hair with a copper.

7. Method Recap
 Shampoo the clients hair
 Apply the semi/quasi colour to hair in sections
ensuring the hair is fully saturated
 Leave to process for recommended time.
 It is suggested drying the hair with the semi colour
still on the hair. However; If the hair is extremely
porous, you may rinse out the semi colour then dry.
 Apply target shade permanent tint to the hair
ensuring the hair is fully saturated to avoid an
uneven result.
 Leave to develop for recommended time.
 Remove colour and shampoo and condition clients
hair.
 Style as requested

8. Pre-Soften
 Pre-softening resistant hair will allow the colour molecules to penetrate and be
deposited easier as the cuticle layer will already have begun to open.
 As pre-softening is predominantly used on virgin white resistant hair, the tint
applied after will usually be deposit only, meaning only a low % peroxide will be
used avoiding damage to the hair.
 It is used to give an even colour result as white hairs tend to take lighter than hair
with melanin present. Avoids root glow on regrowth clients.
Method
1. A low level peroxide is applied onto resistant white hair ONLY.
2. Peroxide is dried into the hair using a hairdryer.
3. Target shade is then applied using relevant method (full-head or
regrowth application)
4. Remove colour, shampoo and condition and style as required.

9. Fixing highlight
bleeds
Sometimes you may get a foil bleed when
foiling. This leaves a stark bleed line or ‘tiger
stripe’ This can happen for several reasons so
ensure your foil technique is correct.
 Mix product correctly, if it is too runny it can
bleed more easily.
 Don’t fold foils too tightly. This allows for
swelling during the bleaching process.
 Take appropriate sections for the hair texture,
taking smaller sections for thicker hair.
 Consider head shape. Feathering at the root
when the head curves or changes shape will
prevent bleeds in the areas.
 Keep good tension when doing your first
brush strokes. Applying product an inch from
the root will ensure the section is stuck down
before pasting the rest of the section.

10. Method
Foil bleeds can be fixed by spot colouring.
1. Separate the sections of hair that have foil
bleeds.
2. Mix up a tint that best matches the clients base
colour.
3. Using your weaved foil technique, weave the
section and apply the tint onto the section. Fold
foil.
4. Repeat the colour application on all sections of
hair that require spot colouring.
5. Develop for required time.
6. Rinse colour, shampoo and condition client hair.
7. Style as required.

11. Removing Colour
 Colour remover is a good choice for removing
ONLY permanent colour from hair without
affecting the natural pigment.
 Colour removers are usually bleach free so
avoids damage to hair
 Colour removers work by penetrating the hair
shaft and dissolving links between the colour
molecules. The artificial pigments shrink enough
to be able to be rinsed out through the hairs
cuticle layer.
 The rinsing process is the MOST important as
any colour molecules that are not rinsed out will
re-oxidise in the air and the hair will darken
again.
 It is advised that the hair isn’t recolored for a
few days, however some brands say recolouring
immediately after colour removal is ok.
Diagram shows shrunk molecules being
washed out of hair shaft. Natural pigments
will not be altered.

12. Method
1. Shampoo the hair twice using a clarifying shampoo. Rinse and towel
dry. (Refer to manufacturers instructions as some brands say to apply to
dry hair) Either way, hair must be clean.
2. Mix the colour remover as per the manufacturers instructions.
3. Use a tint brush and beginning at the nape, apply the colour remover in
sections ensuring each section is saturated in product. Work quickly as
as soon as the product is mixed it starts to lose its effectiveness. Slow
application may result in an uneven result. If hair is long, product can
be applied with hands using an applicator bottle instead.
4. Use a wide tooth comb to comb through to ensure product is
distributed evenly.
5. Put a plastic cap on to trap in heat as it will help open the cuticle and
accelerate colour removal.
6. Rinse the colour remover thoroughly from hair. Move the hair around
and rinse from different directions. Give the hair thorough shampoos
and long, warm rinses to keep the cuticle open. After thorough rinsing
has been done, apply a reconstructing conditioner.
7. It is advised to allow a few days before recolouring, however some
brands say you can recolour immediately after a colour removal service.
If you are recolouring immediately, DO NOT apply conditioner.
8. Style as required.

13. Cleansing/Bleach
Bath
 A cleansing bath uses diluted bleach to remove
colour from hair. It will remove pigment from ALL
colour molecules, artificial, natural and semi/quasi
permanent colours. It is a gentler way to remove
colour than bleaching.
 Bleach baths are usually applied at the backwash
and is advised on damp UNWASHED hair. This
prevents excessive dryness occurring from repeated
shampooing and bleach.
 Bleach baths work the same way as bleaching hair.
The colour molecules are oxidised causing them to
turn transparent.
 A cleansing bath is usually mixed at a ratio of 1:2:1.
1 Part bleach to 2 parts peroxide to 1 part shampoo.
Strength of peroxide will be weakened due to the
presence of shampoo in the mixture.
Diagram shows a hair strand full of
pigment, when a cleansing bath is used
bleach molecules enter the raised cuticle
and oxidise the colour molecules turning
them transparent

14. Method
1. Shampoo the hair twice at the basin with warm to hot
water as this helps open the cuticle layer. DO NOT
condition
2. Mix up the cleansing bath mixture and using gloves and a
tint brush, apply the mixture to the hair sections, avoiding
the virgin root area if there is a regrowth. Apply the
mixture only to the part of the hair you wish to lighten.
3. Once the hair is fully saturated with product, use your
hands to massage the sections. The heat from massaging
will help with the lightening process.
4. Keep a constant visual check on the process and as soon
as the desired result is produced, wash out. A bleach bath
can be left for 20 – 30 minutes for greater lightening
result.
5. Once the desired result is achieved you can either put on
a toner, or dry the hair and recolour. Keep in mind the
hairs condition when proceeding with further treatments.
6. Style as required.

15. Toning hair
 When hair is coloured you are adding
depth and tone. When hair is bleached
you are removing pigment from colour
molecules. In both instances you can be
left with unwanted tones in the hair.
 A toner can be used to neutralise
unwanted tone or to change the overall
colour of the hair.

16.  The colour wheel and the international colour
chart are both needed when using a toner.
Knowledge of basic colour mixing will also
prove useful. E.g. Blue + Yellow = Green
 Opposites on the colour wheel will cancel out
each other, E.g. Violet neutralizes yellow, Blue
neutralizes Orange etc

17. Method
 Shampoo hair twice, DO NOT condition.
 Choose your desired toner colour. Mix
using manufacturers instructions. As
toners are deposit only, they are usually
mixed with 3% or converter.
 Apply to hair in sections ensuring hair is
saturated. Work quickly to avoid an
uneven result.
 Develop for required time. Rinse and
condition.
 Style as required.

18. Colour Banding
When dealing with colour banding its
important to realise you may have to use a
variety of colour correction methods to
eliminate the bands. As such each different
colour band should be treated as a separate
head of hair.
The client in the photo wants to return to a
base 6.
Example:
 Roots – Roots already have the copper
pigments required to recolour. This can be
recoloured as it is
 Mid-lengths – The dark colour band will
need lifting up to a level 7 to allow an
even result when recolouring. This can be
done using bleach or a colour remover.
 Ends – The bleached ends will need pre-
pigmenting to restore tone before the hair
can be recoloured.