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Fibres and Fabrics: groups and
                      properties




24 September 2012       Mainly making 1      1
It is of fundamental importance for every
 designer to understand the properties and
qualities of fabrics. The choice of fabric for a
     garment is paramount to its success.
                                      – Sorger & Udale (2006)




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1                         2
Function and performance


    As a fashion designer it is extremely
     important that you understand what
 properties fabrics have and how best to use
      them on the body, functionally and
                 aesthetically.
                                      – Udale, J 2008,




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1                  3
Where do fibres come from?




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   4
Cellulose Fibres




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   5
24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   6
24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   7
24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   8
Turning fibre into yarn




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1   9
Sustainability

          Katherine Hamnet:
          http://www.katharinehamnett.com/Campaigns/
          Organic-Cotton//

          The True Cost of Cotton:
          http://www.ejfoundation.org/




24 September 2012          Mainly making 1         10
References

• Sorger & Udale (2006). The fundamentals
  of Fashion Design. Switzerland; AVA
  Publishing
• Udale, J (2008), Textiles and Fashion.
  Switzerland; AVA Publishing




24 September 2012   Mainly making 1         11

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Fibres and fabrics

  • 1. Fibres and Fabrics: groups and properties 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 1
  • 2. It is of fundamental importance for every designer to understand the properties and qualities of fabrics. The choice of fabric for a garment is paramount to its success. – Sorger & Udale (2006) 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 2
  • 3. Function and performance As a fashion designer it is extremely important that you understand what properties fabrics have and how best to use them on the body, functionally and aesthetically. – Udale, J 2008, 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 3
  • 4. Where do fibres come from? 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 4
  • 5. Cellulose Fibres 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 5
  • 6. 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 6
  • 7. 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 7
  • 8. 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 8
  • 9. Turning fibre into yarn 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 9
  • 10. Sustainability Katherine Hamnet: http://www.katharinehamnett.com/Campaigns/ Organic-Cotton// The True Cost of Cotton: http://www.ejfoundation.org/ 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 10
  • 11. References • Sorger & Udale (2006). The fundamentals of Fashion Design. Switzerland; AVA Publishing • Udale, J (2008), Textiles and Fashion. Switzerland; AVA Publishing 24 September 2012 Mainly making 1 11

Notes de l'éditeur

  1. QuoteIt is of fundamental importance for every designer to understand the properties and qualities of fabrics. The choice of fabric for a garment is paramount to its success.Sorger & Udale (2006)Weight and handle will affect the shape & form of a fabric (its drape etc)Silk will drape, wool will have structure, cotton denim will be hard wearing and comfortable, a raincoat needs to be lightweight and offer protection, tight fitting t-shirt needs to be stretchy.
  2. Function and performanceNeed to know:What is the composition of the fabric?Are the fibres derived from natural or man-made sources?How is the fabric constructed?Look at your given fabric – can you answer the questions?
  3. Where do fibres come from?Natural fibresOrganic sourcesPlant sources (cellulose) Animal Source (Protein)
  4. Cellulose FibresMade for carbohydrateExtracted from a variety of plants- to make fibres suitable for textile productionSoft – but not break up when washedCotton: 40% of the world’s textiles, soft ‘fluffy’ character, can be woven or knitted – variety of weights, durable and breathable properties.Farmers use chemical fertilisers and pesticide in its production- remains in the fabric (next to our skin). Katherine Hamnet is pursuing organic cotton
  5. Linen: similar properties, creases easily, flax plant (ancient fibre). Hemp, raimie & sisal cotton alternatives
  6. Protein FibresProtein is essential in the structure and function of all living cells.Keratin comes from hair and is the most common protein fibreSheep produce wool – shorn off and spun, different varieties of sheep produce different varieties of wool, warm and elastic, shrinks when hot water – staple/short fibres. Goats (cashmere and angora), Alpaca camel and rabbit,
  7. Silk: Harvested from the cocoon of a silk worm, continuous thread – cultivated and harvested, cultivated is stronger, harvested the worm chews its way out so not continuous.
  8. Turning fibre into yarnMan-made fibres are put through a spinning process which forces them through a showerhead-style structure – creating long filament fibres. Manufacturers can control the thickness – called denierStaple fibres are short natural fibres (exception being silk)Man-made filament fibres a can be cut to resemble staple fibrefinishes (mechanical, physical and aesthetic)after spinning fibres can be twisted, producing various different effects – crinkled, boucle, loopy, knobbly surfaces.
  9. Sustainabilityhttp://www.katharinehamnett.com/Campaigns/Organic-Cotton//http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCZ9yV9l50k – video of issues with cotton productionhttp://www.ejfoundation.org/pdf/white_gold_the_true_cost_of_cotton.pdf - campaign
  10. ReferencesSorger & Udale (2006). The fundamentals of Fashion Design. Switzerland; AVA PublishingUdale, J (2008), Textiles and Fashion. Switzerland; AVA Publishing