1. Fibres and Fabrics: groups and
properties
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2. It is of fundamental importance for every
designer to understand the properties and
qualities of fabrics. The choice of fabric for a
garment is paramount to its success.
– Sorger & Udale (2006)
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3. Function and performance
As a fashion designer it is extremely
important that you understand what
properties fabrics have and how best to use
them on the body, functionally and
aesthetically.
– Udale, J 2008,
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4. Where do fibres come from?
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10. Sustainability
Katherine Hamnet:
http://www.katharinehamnett.com/Campaigns/
Organic-Cotton//
The True Cost of Cotton:
http://www.ejfoundation.org/
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11. References
• Sorger & Udale (2006). The fundamentals
of Fashion Design. Switzerland; AVA
Publishing
• Udale, J (2008), Textiles and Fashion.
Switzerland; AVA Publishing
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Notes de l'éditeur
QuoteIt is of fundamental importance for every designer to understand the properties and qualities of fabrics. The choice of fabric for a garment is paramount to its success.Sorger & Udale (2006)Weight and handle will affect the shape & form of a fabric (its drape etc)Silk will drape, wool will have structure, cotton denim will be hard wearing and comfortable, a raincoat needs to be lightweight and offer protection, tight fitting t-shirt needs to be stretchy.
Function and performanceNeed to know:What is the composition of the fabric?Are the fibres derived from natural or man-made sources?How is the fabric constructed?Look at your given fabric – can you answer the questions?
Where do fibres come from?Natural fibresOrganic sourcesPlant sources (cellulose) Animal Source (Protein)
Cellulose FibresMade for carbohydrateExtracted from a variety of plants- to make fibres suitable for textile productionSoft – but not break up when washedCotton: 40% of the world’s textiles, soft ‘fluffy’ character, can be woven or knitted – variety of weights, durable and breathable properties.Farmers use chemical fertilisers and pesticide in its production- remains in the fabric (next to our skin). Katherine Hamnet is pursuing organic cotton
Linen: similar properties, creases easily, flax plant (ancient fibre). Hemp, raimie & sisal cotton alternatives
Protein FibresProtein is essential in the structure and function of all living cells.Keratin comes from hair and is the most common protein fibreSheep produce wool – shorn off and spun, different varieties of sheep produce different varieties of wool, warm and elastic, shrinks when hot water – staple/short fibres. Goats (cashmere and angora), Alpaca camel and rabbit,
Silk: Harvested from the cocoon of a silk worm, continuous thread – cultivated and harvested, cultivated is stronger, harvested the worm chews its way out so not continuous.
Turning fibre into yarnMan-made fibres are put through a spinning process which forces them through a showerhead-style structure – creating long filament fibres. Manufacturers can control the thickness – called denierStaple fibres are short natural fibres (exception being silk)Man-made filament fibres a can be cut to resemble staple fibrefinishes (mechanical, physical and aesthetic)after spinning fibres can be twisted, producing various different effects – crinkled, boucle, loopy, knobbly surfaces.
Sustainabilityhttp://www.katharinehamnett.com/Campaigns/Organic-Cotton//http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCZ9yV9l50k – video of issues with cotton productionhttp://www.ejfoundation.org/pdf/white_gold_the_true_cost_of_cotton.pdf - campaign
ReferencesSorger & Udale (2006). The fundamentals of Fashion Design. Switzerland; AVA PublishingUdale, J (2008), Textiles and Fashion. Switzerland; AVA Publishing