2. Acknowledgement
At first I would like to thank almighty Allah for giving me the opportunity to complete
my internship. I have taken an opportunity to express my deepest since of gratitude and
sincere thanks to my reverend teacher Prof. Syed FakhrulHasan,Chairman, Department of
Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka.I also thank toA.N. M. Ahmad
Ullah , Co-ordinator, Departmentof Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani,
Dhaka,for giving me the chance internship in Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
It is an auspicious for me a student of Department of Textile Engineering. One of the
prestigious academic center of the Southeast University to express my deep feeling of
gratitude to the department and especially to my supervisor S.M.MasumAlam,
Department of Textile Engineering.
Special thanks to go Mr.FakirAkhteruzzaman, Managing Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
For kind help extend to me.
I also thank to Mr.FakirMashriquzzaman, Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. I also thank to
Mr.SyedImtiajRajib of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
I would like to thank Mr.S.M.Md. Fakhruzzaman,GM (Dyeing) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
I would like to thank Mr.Sultan Mahmud Hosseinee,GM (HR & Compliance) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd.
1 would like to thank Mr. MdMojiburRahman, GM(Production) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
I would like to thank Mr. Md. Kashem Ali Khan, Manager (IE & Planning) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. for his valuable direction and special attention.
I would like to thank Mr. Md. Toriqul Islam, Manager (Dyeing) of Fakir Knitwears
Ltd.
I also thank to Mr. Mohammad Din Islam, Asst. Manager (IE & Planning) of Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. for his real advice.
I am also grateful to Mr. Abul Basher Muhammad Suhas, Management Trainee & Mr.
Md. TanvirHossainMazumdar ,PO (Knitting) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. for giving me their
proper guideline and continuous support.
I want to offer my deepest thanks and complements to my parents and brother for their
unselfish and stimulating influence in my any education life.
Finally my cordial gratitude to almighty Allah to successfully completed my industrial
attachment.
May-2012 SAIDUL ISLAM
3. FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Introduction
Industrial attachment is an essential part of 4 years B. Sc in Textile Engineering
course of Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka. As a Textile graduate should
have an experience in the study of Wet Processing Technology, machineries
products and over all situation of the Factory before work in the industries. I
have the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment on Fakir Knitwears
Ltd. Fakir Knitwears Ltd, is a renowned and modern technology integrated
industry.
Fakir KnitwearsLtd, started in the year 1988 in knit garment exporter, Fakir
Knitwears Ltd. Crossed over a long way and found us as one of the best
knitwear manufacturer-exporter of Bangladesh.
Fakir Knitwears Ltd. certified with OKEO-TEX, ISO 9001-2000 &SRM and
also getting by WRAP and ISO-14001
Fakir Knitwears Ltd. strive to provide the best quality garment to the buyers.
Factory provided advanced technology in all aspects of operation to attain
excellence concerning quality, dependability and commitment for apparel
industry and society. Product quality is ensured with the practice of advanced
technology and our inclination toward meeting with the buyer's satisfaction with
competitive price.
5. Chapter One:
Project Description
COMPANY PROFILE
Factory :FakirKnitwears Ltd.
Factory & Head Office :Kyempur, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400
Phone:88-02-7641379-80
7643242,7643271
Fax:88-02-7634611
Commercial Office :89 Lucky chamber,1st
Floor,Motijheel
Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh.
Managing Director :Fakir Akhtaruzzaman (C.I.P)
Year of Establishment :1988
Area of Premises :550000 sqft
Number of Employee :8500
Yearly turnover :$120 million
Production Capacity : Knitting- 40 tons/day
Dyeing-42 tons/day
Dyeing Finishing-42tons/day
Garments-200000 pcs/day
Garments Washing-20000pcs/day
Printing-100000 pcs/day
Embroidery-200 Head
6. Contact(Marketing) : 1)F.A.Zaman(neaz),(Director)
Email: neaz@fakirgroup.com
2)Mr.MahmudulHasan, DGM
(Merchandising & Marketing)
Email: hasan@fakirgroup.com
3)Mr.BiswajitSaha,AGM
(Merchandising & marketing)
Email: biswajit@fakirgroup.com
Bank:1) National Bank of Pakistan
2)One Bank Limited
3)Datch Bangla Bank Limited
Buyers : H & M
TEMA
PRIMARK
PEACOCKS
PENNYES
BERSHKA
ZERA
7. Type of Factory& Concern Department
The factory is a Knit composite industry. The factory has the following departments-
Knitting:
o Knitting
o Inspection
o Quality control
Dyeing:
o Batch section
o Dye house
o Dyeing laboratory
o Quality control
o Finishing
Garments:
o Merchandising
o Sample
o Cutting Section
o Sewing Section
o Finishing Section
Maintenance:
o Electrical
o Mechanical
Administration
Security
Marketing
Production Planning & Control
Human Resource & Development
Remarks
The factory has outstanding quality of producing and exporting goods. The infrastructure is
the fabric is well enough to be a very good composite factory in Bangladesh. The
information’s are given according to source of Management department.
10. Managing Director
• Reporting to Chairperson
• Responsible to board of director/s
• Having total charge of the operation
• Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfill
marketing requirements
• Monitor factory operation and make sure orders are delivered on time, with
customer's required quality at a minimum cost
• Take the total charge of all human resource activities and make sure FKL. To have
professional and cheerful work force
Director
• Reporting to Managing Director
• Direct co-ordination with Production Manager / Sample Room In-Charge / Quality
Manager / Lab In-Charge.
• Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of the
company.
• Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.
• Take charge of all pre production activities.
• Take charge of all new developments.
• Identify tanning needs.
• Maintain safety system and procedures.
• Introduce cost effective management methods.
11. General Manager (Operation)
• Report directly to Managing Director & Director.
• Take total charge of the factory activities.
• Take charge of administration / fund management / cost control/ purchasing /
production planning / store and stock control / delivery schedules and compliance.
• Directly control all the system maintenance and upgrading.
• Take responsibility of all information flow to / from head office with the help of
coordinator
• Take charge of all recruitments and terminations with the guidance of Director.
General Manager (Production)
• Report directly to Managing Director.
• Negociate with the Merchandising DGM
• Co-ordinate with the Merchandising department about costing & Consumption.
• Directly Report to the Director about the Garments Unit.
• Over all monitoring the productivity and take necessary actions.
• Responsible to Production Manager. Merchandising (DGM)
• Report directly to Managing Director.
• Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In-
Charge.
• Upgrade Managing Director on the progress. Follow-up on new order
confirmations and transfer information to subordinates
• Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan
is up to date.
• Monitoring maintained and processed order information, which transferred
between head office and the factory
• Execute raw materials bookings and follow-ups.
12. • Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the
coordinator.
• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory, customer requirements
and get buyer's approvals where ever possible.
Finance and Accounts (DGM)
• Directly report to the Director.
• Close co-ordination with Managing Director.
• Responsible for execution funds and maintain relevant documentation.
• Maintain salary sheets and follow up cash requirements and organize funds for
company needs.
• Handle all kind of banking affairs.
• Produce Management reports with regards to company finance General Manager
(Purchase & Inventory)
• Report directly to Managing Director.
• Co-ordinate with Merchandising Manager.
• Responsible for business development / develop new supplier sources and cost
control.
• Frequent market research and up date management and related
departments on the current trends in the market.
• Generate innovation to the organization.
• Follow up current customers and ongoing orders.
• Co-operate with customers and make their requirements understand to the
subordinates and related departments.
• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory; convince customers
and get customers approvals where ever is possible on company interest.
• Find business for surplus goods.
• Prepare and maintain management reports.
13. General Manager (HR & Compliance)
• Directly reporting to Director.
• Co-ordinate with the entire departmental in charges and all the workers in the
factory
• Responsible to monitor,
o Factory timing o Discipline and cleanliness o Attendance, leave and holydays o
Security and maintenance of the factory o Transportation and its maintenance o
Wagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Do necessary formalities
during new recruitment or terminations. Manager (IE & Planning)
• Directly reporting to the Director.
• Directly reporting to the MD Sir about the over all situation of the factory
• Sample break down and SMV establish.
• Discussion with GM (Production) about lost time and bottle neck.
• Co-ordination with HR department about the workers recruitment. Senior
Merchandiser
• Report directly to Manager Merchandising.
• Maintain and process information received from buyers and buying offices and
process and transfers them between head office and factory.
• Follow up on new order confirmations and book raw materials
accordingly.
• Help to up date the production plan. Production Manager
• Directly reporting to General Manager.
• Responsible to GM, Operations.
• Co-ordinate with Quality Manager, Cutting manager, Finishing & Store
14. Inventory Manager
• Directly reporting to General Manager.
• Responsible to Merchandising Manager.
• Co-ordinate with production Co-coordinator.
• Responsible to follow up production planning and all the raw material
requirements.
• Maintain inventory / storing system / documentation and provide
information to prepare statistics
• Stock controlling and keep management inform as and when required.
Quality Control In-charge
• Reporting to Quality Manager
• Responsible to Director Operations
• Co-ordinate with production, knitting, linking, trimming, mending and finishing
In-Charges and Supervisors
• Responsible to follow up instructions given by Quality Manager and Director
Operations.
• Monitor the work done by Quality Checkers.
• Make sure the quality is maintained at buyer's required standard and maintained
company quality system.
• Maintain relevant paper work.
Human Resources &Welfare Officer
• Reporting to General Manager
• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.
• Responsible to monitor training, cleanliness, health and safety, meals, picnics,
welfare fund and all other welfare affairs
15. Compliance Officer
• Reporting to HR & Welfare Officer
• Responsible to General Manager
• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.
• Responsible to monitor system management, health & safety and all other
compliance affairs.
HROfficer
• Directly reporting to Administration Manager
• Responsible to General Manager
• Co-ordinate with the entire department in charges and all the workers in the
factory.
• Responsible to monitor,
o Factory timing. o Discipline and cleanliness. o Attendance, leave and
holydays. o Security and maintenance of the factory. o Transportation and its
maintenance. o Wagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Do
necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations. Accounts Executive
• Reporting to Finance & Accounts Manager.
• Responsible to maintain all the books and paperwork with regards to company
accounts.
• Prepare and maintain salary sheets.
• Follow up day-to-day cash requirement and handled funds.
• Prepare management reports.
16. Security In-charge
• Reporting to Dept. General Manager
• Responsible to monitor all the activities of security officers, conduct security
activities and make sure the total premises are completely safe and secured.
• Should conduct regular security inspections in the premises both day and night
• Maintain records of all incomings and out going goods, personal and vehicles.
• Provide training to security staff. Security Guard
• Reporting to Security In-charge.
• Responsible to Security Manager.
• Conduct security activities and make sure the total premise is completely safe and
secured.
• Should be conduct regular security inspections in both day and night.
• Maintain all security records. Time Keeper
• Reporting to Administration Manager
• Responsible to maintain the time record of all the employees.
• Maintain timecard in order. Sewing Supervisor
• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge.
• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager.
• Co-ordinate with finishing Supervisor.
• Responsible for all labeling.
• Monitoring work of all the workers.
• Maintain needle policy and safety.
17. Sewing Operators
• Reporting to Sewing Supervisor.
• Responsible to Finishing In-Charge.
• Duties to do sewing with optimum quality.
• Maintain cleanliness and safety. Ironing Supervisor
• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge
• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager
• Co-ordinate with Washing In-Charge
• Responsible for all finishing activities
• Motivate subordinates. Iron man
• Reporting to Ironing Supervisor
• Responsible to Finishing In-charge
• Duties to do ironing with optimum quality.
• Maintain cleanliness and safety. Packing Supervisor
• Reporting to Finishing In-Charge
• Responsible for Assistant Production Manager
• Co-ordinate with Ironing Supervisor and Sewing Supervisor.
• Responsible for best quality goods.
• Monitoring work of all the workers.
• Motivate subordinates.
18. Chapter Three:
Machineries
Garments Machineries
SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand /Origin
01 Straight Knife m/c 30 Mack- Japan
02 Band Knife m/c 02 OSHMAKK, Taiwan
03 Lay spreading m/c 04 Eastman
04 Sample print heating m/c 02 Speed cutter, Japan
05 Single Needle Lock Stitch 591 Brother , Japan
06 Over lock m/c 512 Pegasus, Japan
07 Flat Lock m/c 156 Pegasus, Japan
08 Feed of the arm 02 Japan
09 Snp button m/c 16 Prime
10 Button hole m/c 20 Brother, Japan
11 Button attaching m/c 17 Brother, Japan
12 Back tape m/c 22 Pegasus, Japan
13 One stop Zik m/c 22 Brother, Japan
14 Thread sucking m/c 20 OSHIMA
15 Thread Re-Con m/c 08 OSHIMA
16 Spot Removing m/c 16 OSHIMA
17 Metal Detector 07 Hasima
18 Iron Vacuum table 150 Hasima
19 Bar take M/c 32 Brother, Japan
20 Rib Cutter 30 OSHMAKK, Taiwan
19. 21 Cylinder bed m/c 177 Brother, Japan
22 Lock stitch two needle 05 Brother, Japan
23 Iron m/c 150 OSHIMA
24 Hand tag m/c 60 Japan
25 Hand dry m/c 120 Brother, Japan
20. Knitting Machineries
Machine Type: Single Jersey
SL MC NO. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE
1 A-1 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Open Width
2 A-2 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Open Width
3 A-3 36"24-108 Masa Open Width
4 A-4 36"24-108 Masa Open Width
5 A-5 36"24-108 Masa Open Width
6 A-6 40"24-120 Masa Open Width
7 A-7 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width
8 A-8 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width
9 A-9 40"24-120 Jiunn Long Open Width
10 A-10 42"24-126 Jiunn Long Open Width
11 A-11 42"24-126 Jiunn Long Open Width
12 A-1 2 42"24-126 Masa Open Width
Machine Type:Single Jersey
1 B-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width
2 B-2 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width
3 B-3 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width
4 B-4 34"24-102 Masa Open Width
5 B-5 34"24-102 Masa Open Width
6 B-6 34"24-102 Masa Open Width
7 B-7 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Open Width
8 B-8 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Open Width
9 B-9 38"24-114 Masa Open Width
10 B-10 38"24-114 Masa Open Width
11 B-11 38"24-114 Masa Open Width
26. Laboratory Machineries
SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Origin Brand
01 Spectro Photo Meter 01 U.S.A Gretag M/C
02 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Taiwan Irdyer Rapid
03 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Hong Kong Tung Shing
04 Gray Scale 01 Japan Shinko
05 Light Box 01 England Verivide
06 Washing Machine 06 Sweden TMS-900
07 Tumbling Machine 01 Sweden TK-111S
08 Rubbing Machine 02 U.S.A
09 Auto dispensing Machine 01 Italy Lawer
Dyeing Machineries (Sample)
SI no. Name of the m/c No of
m/c
No of
Nozzle
Origin Brand Capacity
01 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg
02 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg
03 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 160kg
04 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg
05 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg
06 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 25kg
07 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg
08 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg
27. FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Dyeing Machineries (Bulk Production)
SI
no.
Name of the m/c No of
m/c
No
of
Nozz
le
Origin Brand Capacity
01 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg
02 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 600kg
03 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
04 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
05 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1200kg
06 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1200kg
07 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 200kg
08 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 200kg
09 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 06 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
10 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1000kg
11 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1000kg
12 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 800kg
13 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 04 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
14 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
15 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
16 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
17 High Temperature & Pressure 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg
18 High Temperature & Pressure 01 05 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
19 High Temperature & Pressure 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 500kg
20 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
28. 21 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
22 High Temperature & Pressure 01 03 Taiwan Fong's 1500kg
23 High Temperature & Pressure 01 3 Greece Sclavos 750kg
24 High Temperature & Pressure 02 4 Greece Sclavos 1000kg
25 High Temperature & Pressure 02 6 Greece Sclavos 1500kg
Dyeing Finishing Machineries
SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand Origin
01 Stenter 03 Bruckner Germany
02 Stenter 01 ACC Turkey
03 Stenter 01 Chengfu Taiwan
04 Open Compactor 03 Lafer Italy
05 Open Compactor 01 Ferraro Italy
06 Slating 02 Bianco Italy
07 Slating 02 EL Italy
08 Bag Sewing 03 MTG Italy
09 Singing 01 Osthoff Germany
10 Sueded M/C 01 Lafu (Has) Turkey
11 Combing 01 I kuang Taiwan
12 Shewing 01 I kuang Taiwan
13 Squeezer 02 AB Calator Sweden
14 Squeezer 01 AKAB Sweden
15 Squeezer 01 Kromson Turkey
16 Tube Compactor 01 Fab-Con U.S.A
17 Tube Compactor 01 Specttorimar Italy
18 Calender 01 Ferraro Italy
19 Dryer 01 AMS Turkey
29. 20 Dryer 01 Obermaier France
21 Tube Compactor 01 Lafer (Has) Turkey
22 Dryer 01 Dilmiler Turkey
Boiler Machineries
SI no. Model No of m/c Origin Brand
01 DDHI 5.0-10 02 Germany Omnica
02 UL-S-1000 02 Germany Loos
Manpower
FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD
Total Manpower and Section Wise Manpower:
Administration Department:
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 General Manager (Operation) 01
02 General Manager (Admin, RH & Com) 01
03 Admin Officer 01
04 IT Manager 01
05 IT Officer 04
06 Welfare Officer 02
07 Software Engineer 02
08 Doctor 01
30. 09 Nurse 01
10 Day Care Governess 02
11 Time Keeper 02
12 Painter 02
13 Peon 13
14 Cleaning Supervisor 08
15 Cleaner & Sweeper 240
16 Cook 07
17 Medical Assistant 02
Total = 310
Accounts Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Sr. Accounts Officer (Tax) 01
03 Accounts Officer 09
04 Cash Officer 02
05 Asst. Manager 02
06 Junior Officer 02
Total = 17
IE & Planning Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Manager 01
02 Asst. Manager 01
03 IE Officer 20
04 Work study officer 20
Total = 42
31. Merchandising Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Asst. General Manager 01
03 Manager 03
04 Sr. Merchandising 01
05 Merchandising 12
06 Asst. Merchandising 06
07 Trainee Merchandising 02
Total=1 26
Maintenance Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Mechanical In-Charge 01
03 Mechanic 08
04 Electrician 03
05 Mechanics Helper 11
Total = 24
Sample Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Manager 01
02 Pattern Master 04
03 Sample Cutter 08
04 Sample Man 06
32. 05 CAD Manager 01
06 CAD Designer 09
07 Q.C (Sewing) 06
08 Operator (Sewing) 27
Total = 61
Security Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy General Manager 01
02 Manager 01
03 Security Officer 02
04 Security Supervisor 04
05 Fire Man 08
06 Security Guard 87
07 Driver 20
Total = 123
Inventory Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 General Manager 01
02 Asst. Store Manager 03
03 Inventory Officer 02
04 Asst. Inventory Officer 05
05 Sr. Store Keeper 05
06 Store Officer 11
07 Store Keeper 21
08 Store Assistant 19
09 Tally Man Incharge 01
10 Tally Man 14
33. Total = 82
Cutting Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Cutting Manager 01
02 Cutting In-charge 09
03 Cutting Supervisor 10
04 Cutting Man 65
05 Sticker Man 11
06 Cutting Inspection 96
07 Marker Man 10
08 Lay Man 230
09 Loader 51
Total = 483
Production Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 General Manager 01
02 Production Manager 05
03 Floor In-charge 15
04 Production Co-ordinator 02
05 Supervisor 48
06 Input Man 15
07 Operator 1056
08 Helper 864
34. 09 Count Man 48
10 Quality Control Man 336
Total = 2390
Printing Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Printing Manager 01
02 In-charge 02
03 Color Muster 01
04 Invigilator 08
05 Supervisor 04
06 QC 21
07 Check Man 73
08 Printer 74
09 Bundle Count Man 24
10 Cleaner 22
11 Helper 428
12 Expose Man 2
13 Loader 11
Total = 671
Quality Department
SL.NO Designation No of Manpower
01 Deputy Manager 01
02 Manager 01
03 Asst. manager 01
04 In-charge 04
05 Quality Controller 26
35. 06 Check Supervisor 39
Total = 72
Finishing Department
SL.No Designation No of Manpower
01 Finishing Manager 01
02 Finishing In-charge 06
03 Finishing Supervisor 34
04 Iron Man 150
05 Folding man 120
06 Poly man 110
07 Packer man 40
08 Helper 60
Total = 527
36. Chapter Four:
Raw Materials
Yarn
The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of different
count areused. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.
Generally used yarn and their count:
Yarn Type Count
Cotton 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
, 32S
, 34S
, 40S
Polyester 75D, 100D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange 24S
, 26S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
CVC 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
Fabric:
Fakir Knitwears Ltd.is a knit composite textile industry. In the industry fabric is used as raw
material in dyeing-
Grey Fabrics:
Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:
Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Single lacoste
37. Fleece
Interlock
Interlock with lycra
Rib
Rib with lycra
1Χ1 rib
2Χ2 rib
6X2 rib
Sugar rib
Regular drop needle
Irregular drop needle
Different types of collar & cuff
Chemicals:
List of Chemicals used in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is as follows-
Basic Chemicals:
1. Acetic Acid
2. Hydrochloric Acid
3. Sulphuric Acid
4. Caustic soda
5. Formic acid
6. Bleaching powder
Detergent & Scouring agent:
1. SUNMORL CK-2
2. AssistB26f/SL2F(CK)
Levelling Agent
1. Neocrystal-200BF
2. LevagalDLP
Sequestering Agent
1. Neocristal 150
2. Neocristal-DMBF
3. NOBLEACH N(Multi-function)
39. PH Controller
1. Acetic Acid
2. Formic Acid
3. Soda Ash
4. Caustic
5. Invatex AC
Per-oxide Killer
1.Croaks NF
Antifoaming agent
1. Albatex FFC
Dyes
Fakir Knitwars ltd uses the following dyes-
1.Sumifix
2.Boductive
3.Ciba
4.Livafix
5.Terafix
Remarks
As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw materials are always
bought by the management of the factory. Besides, there is enough space to keep those
raw materials in the factory.
40. Chapter Five:
Knitting section
Process Flow chart of Knitting:
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and Tension device.
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Parts of knitting Machines:
Creel: Creel is used to place the cone of yarn.
Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric.
Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.
Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine
to feed the yarn at specific finger.
41. Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine
Design Development by using CAM:
The type of fabric to produce depends on the setting of the Cam of Knitting machine. The
different types of fabric can be produced by only changing the cam setting. The cam settings
to produce different fabric are given below:
Single jersey:
Only knit cams are used to produce single jersey fabric. So the setting would be-
K K K
K K K
K K K
Inter lock:
Inter lock fabric is produced by using knit and miss cam. So the setting would be-
K M K
M K M
Lacost:
Lacost uses knit and tuck cam like-
K K T K K
T K K K T
French terry:
The cam setting is as follows-
K M K M K M
K T K M K T
K M K T K M
42. Considered pointof Knitting:
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to
production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to
consider. Those are as follows-
Finished G.S.M.
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
Yarn count
Types of yarn (combed or carded)
Diameter of the fabric.
Stitch length
Color depth.
End products of circular knitting machine:
Single Jersey M/C:
a) S/J Plain
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Single pique
e) Double pique
f) Terry
Rib M/C:
a) 1*1 Rib fabric
b) 2*2 Rib fabric
c) Honeycomb
End product of Flat bed knitting machine:
a) Collar
b) Cuff
43. Production Calculation:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
countYarn
mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM
80.3527
)(..
B. Production/shift in meter
100/
1260.
/
.min/
cmCourse
EfficiencyFeederofNoRPM
cmCourse
Course
C. Fabric width in meter:
100/
.
100/
.
cmWales
knittinginusedNeedlesofnoTotal
cmWales
walesofnoTotal
D. Needle calculation
For Circular knitting machine:
Diameter of the Machine X Gauge of the Machine X 3.14
For example: Diameter of the machine is 18” and Gauge of the machine is 24. Then the
number of Needles on the machine would be-
18 X 24 X 3.14 = 1356
For Flat Bed knitting machine:
Length of the Machine needle bed X Gauge of the Machine
For example: Length of the machine needle bed is 56” and Gauge of the machine is 14. Then
the number of Needles on the machine would be-
56 X 14 = 1568
44. Faults of Knitting:
1. Hole Mark
Causes:
Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.
Badly knot or splicing.
Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as
uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new
loop as a result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
45. 4. Star
Causes:
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles.
5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to
the needle hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight & well.
Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make
a line.
Remedies:
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7. Rust stain
Causes:
If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
46. If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle
9. Grease stain
Causes:
Improper greasing
Excess greasing
Remedies:
Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
10. Cloth fall- out
Causes:
Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty
needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder
and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a
drop stitch.
11. Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)
Stripe.
Causes:
This fault comes from yarn fault.
If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
47. In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
We can use this fabric in white color.
12. Fly dust:
Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from
yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or
attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.
13. Yarn Faults:
Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count variations.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness
48. Flat Knitting Machines Fault:
1. Holes:
Causes:
Needle Break,
High Tension on Tensioner,
Excess cotton with yarn on needle.
2. Missing Needle:
Causes:
Faulty Needle,
Faulty Cam setting.
3. Oil mark:
Causes:
Improper Oiling on Machine.
Inexperienced Operator
4. Loop Miss:
Causes:
Tension on take up roller,
Needle miss.
49. Chapter Six:
Batching section
Batch process flow chart :
Flow process chart of Batching Section of Fakir KnitwearsLtd.
Fabric Received
↓
Inspection
↓
Fabric Divided according to Diameter
↓
Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation
↓
Sent for Dyeing
Grey fabric inspection
The batch section of the Fakir KnitwearsLtd. inspects the following parameters of the
received fabric-
Knitting Hole
Oil Spot
Tara
Shade UP
Star Mark
Patta
Lack out
Batch Calculation:
= Batch Quantity (M/C Quantity) / Total Quantity X Diameter quantity
Equation for Rope Length
=Diameter Quantity (Weight of Fabric in a roll) X 39.37 X1000 / Finished GSM / Finished
open Diameter
50. Batch management:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager.
Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
Machines in batch section :
No of Machine : 06
Machine Name : Air Turning Machine
Origin : KOREA
Remarks:
The batch section of the factory is well equipped but it lacks in a quality controller.
Chapter Seven:
Lab section
Lab dip:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.
51. Objective of Lab dip
The main objectives in lab are as follows:
To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)
The responsibilities of the laboratory are:
Sample preparation according to buyer requirement
Different properties test (Wash fastness, Color fastness, rubbing fastness,
Perspiration Test, Pilling Test etc.)
Strength test of Dyestuff
Chlorine test, Peroxide test
Product Development etc.
52. Laboratory work sequence :
Sample received (Fabrics)
↓
Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar
↓
Sample Preparation
↓
Run the test
↓
Physical test Wet lab
Color Fastness to wash
Pilling Color Fastness to washing
Crocking
Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample
Report Making Test Test
Prepared the report prepared the report
Pass Fail
Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail
Need to test again Refinish
53. Lab Dyeing process follow up :
The laboratory dyeing process of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. is as follow:
Sample Received
↓
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory
↓
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe
↓
If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color
↓
Recipe Prepared
↓
Sample prepared according to recipe
↓
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared
↓
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer
↓
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production.
Sample Received:
Buyer sends a sample which is considered as standard in whole process. Buyer also
gives some requirements about the properties of the standard fabric. For example, Buyer
wants good wash fastness, light fastness, rubbing fastness, pilling formation etc. The lab
receives this standard to make this fabric according to buyer requirements.
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory:
The factory dyed a lot of fabric in its running years. It also stores a lot of sample in its
inventory. The standard is first checked with the samples kept in the inventory.
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe:
If the standard is matched with the sample of inventory then the next process becomes
easier. Because after matching the sample with standard previously maintained recipe is
followed. If the sample does not match with the standard then the process goes to data color.
54. If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color:
If the standard does not match with the samples of inventory, then the standard
percentage of color is found out from the data color machine.
Recipe Prepared:
According to the results of data color machine the recipe is prepared to get the desired
sample of that standard.
Sample prepared according to recipe:
Following the procedure the sample is prepared.
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared:
After getting the sample is compared with the standard. And several tests are done to
meet the buyer requirement.
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer:
Sample is then sent to the buyer for the final approval.
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production:
When buyer gives the final approval the fabric is sent to production floor for the bulk
production.
55. Properties test
Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry):
Procedure:
Firstly a sample of size (14 × 5) cm is taken at Wales & Course wise. The crocking cloth is
put on to the finger &is staged by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually &
assesses the crocking cloth with gray scale.
The crocking cloth is placed on the water, it will suck some water and crocking cloth is then
squeezed. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run
10 times in 10 seconds manually. The crocking is then assessed cloth by gray scale for wet
rubbing. Wet and dry rubbing are checked according to buyer’s requirement.
Color fastness to washing. (ISO/05-CO6):
Procedure:
1. Size of specimen: Sample &multifibre at (10 × 2) cm then stitch.
2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled water
& cooled at 20°C & measured PH
(where necessary).
3. the program is run in the following way: -
Test no. Temp°C Liq.volume ml Time min. Steel balls Adjust pH
C2S 60°C 50 30 25 10.5±1
4. The sample is rinsed twice with cold water.
5. At 60°C by hanging or by flat iron pressing the dried but temperature should not less
more than 150°C.
6.
56. Pilling test:
Procedure:
The fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm is cut & balanced mark should be 10cm by using template. Then
the fabric is sewn so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes.Then
four tubes are placed in a box & started 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer
requirement. Then the fabric is assessed by putting tested specimen on the cabinet &
compared with standard photographs.
Shrinkage &Spirality test:
Buyer’s requirements:
Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).
Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%
Width wise----5%
Spirality: Left -------- 5%
Right -------- 5%
Procedure:
Firstly two ply of fabric is taken & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has
8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then 8
holes are marked by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.
The fabric is sewn & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes with water.
After that the sample is dried & then fabric is measured.
Calculation:
Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise:After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
57. Width wise: After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
Spirality test:
=
M)&HforthLength(wid
2
sideRightsideLeft
× 100 %
Dyestuff Strength test:
Dyestuff strength test is very important for any textile dyeing industry.
A dye comes to industry then a sample fabric is dyed first to make it a reference. When that
dye is used and finished from inventory, new dye is ordered. But it is not sure the dye that
reached newly, will make a fabric as much dyed as before. That is why after arriving of dye
to the factory it is used to make a sample. Then this newly made sample is checked in respect
of previously dyed sample. If the two samples match with each other, it is resulted that the
strength is okay. But if not match then the amount to be given (less or more) is determined.
Thus the strength of dyestuff is measured in this way.
Remarks:
The laboratory of the factory is well enough to make quality products. But more attention to
laboratory is required to make it more efficient. The information’s that lacks about laboratory
in this report is just the result of the unavailability of time of the depart
58. Chapter Eight:
Dyeing section
Cellulose:
When all impurities have been removed from the natural cotton fiber, cellulose remains.
Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5) n. pure cellulose is a white substance with a specific
gravity of 1.5. It burns freely in air with a luminous smokeless flame. Cellulose is insoluble in water
and alkalis but dissolves in cold concentrated sulfuric acid. Like other carbohydrates, when heated
with concentrated sulfuric acid it swells up, forming a mass of carbon. It is also attack by hydrochloric
acid nitric acids.
When hydrolyzed with dilute acids an almost theoretical yield of glucose is obtained. This indicates
that cellulose is a long-chain polymer produced by linking together a large number of glucose units.
Starch and glycogen are also polymers of glucose but they have no fiber forming attributes.
From the foregoing it will be apparent that cellulose is a polymer of glucose, and it must contain a
large number of – CH2OH and CHOH groups.
The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units. Cellobiose
is hydrolyzed by the enzyme emulsion, which it is known, will only break down links between beta
glucose molecules. cellobiose consists of two beta glucose molecules linked together at the 1:4 carbon
atoms.
The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OH groups.
These are also present as methylol groups or – CH2OH. Their polarity gives rise to hydrogen bonds
between the – OH groups of adjacent cotton polymers. Van der Waal’s forces also occur but
compared with the hydrogen bonds, the Vander Waal’s forces are of little significance.
59. Chemical composition of raw cotton:
Component Main location Relative amount
Cellulose Secondary wall 86.8 %
Oil and Wax Cuticle 0.70 %
Pectins Primary cell wall 1.0 %
Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %
Protein Lumen 1.2 %
Salts Lumen 1.0 %
Water Whole 6.8 %
Others 2.0 %
Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:
Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers
01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon
02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute
03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk
04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
06 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
07 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.
08 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate Rayon.
Theory of Reactive Dyeing:
Reactive dyes are colored compounds and the only class of dyes that form covalent
bonds between the dye molecules and the fibers. The dye contain reactive group which react
with the fiber and make covalent bond with the fibers in the alkaline condition and act as an
integral part of the fiber is called reactive dye. Reactive dyes may be used for coloration of
60. cellulose and protein fibers and this is the most important class of dyes for dyeing and
printing of cellulosic fiber.
Structural characteristics of Reactive Dye:
Characteristics structural features of reactive dyes are as follows ---
D –B – R - X
Where,
D = Dye part
B = Bridging group
R = Reactive group bearing part
X = Reactive group.
Dyeing mechanism is completed by three stages-
Exhaustion of dye in the presence of electrolyte
Fixation of dye under alkaline condition
Wash of the unfixed dye from material surface
Exhaustion:when the fabric is immersed in the dye liquor an electrolyte is added to
assist the exhaustion of dye. Here NaCl is used to neutralize the negative charge
formed on fabric surface & puts extra energy to penetrate dye molecules.
Fixation: fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with the
terminal -OH group of fiber& thus forming strong covalent bond with fiber.
Controlled by maintaining ph by adding alkali properly.
Wash off:as the dyeing is completed a good wash must be applied to remove extra
or unfixed dye from surface of fabric & for level dyeing it is important.
Reaction with Cellulose Fiber
Reactive dyes formed covalent bond with cellulosic fiber by Nuclueophilic
substitution and addition reaction. The reactions are as follows ----
Substitution reaction:
D – R – Cl + HO - Cell D – R – O – Cell + HCl
Addition reaction:
D – F – CH2 = CH2 + HO – Cell D – F – CH2 – CH2 – O – Cell
61. Reaction with water:
The cold brand reactive dyes are highly reactive in nature. They react also with water
and get hydrolyzed. The reaction is as follows ----
D – R – Cl + HOH D – R – OH + HCl
The hydrolyzed dye is also colored substances and has very low substantivity for the
cellulosic fiber. So they are attached with fiber surface after dyeing. If they do not washed
away from the fiber surface the fastness property of the fiber must be very low.
Dyes: The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are responsible for the color of
dyed and printed lest tile fabric materials. Dye molecules are colored became they are
selectively able to absorbed and reflect incident light. Dyes molecules contain at least one of
each of the radicals called chromophores and auxochromes.
Pretreatment:
Pretreatment is the preparation period of fabric fro dyeing. For getting proper fastness of
fabric and proper dyeing pretreatment is a mandatory process.
Demineralization:
It is a process of removing mineral materials from the water. It is done in water treatment
plant. Water from natural sources contains many mineral materials which may hamper the
dyeing process. If the mineral materials are present in water then it may lead to uneven shade
in dyeing. Besides it may also damage the fabric and the machine.
Scorning:The process to remove fats, oil, waxy substances and added the impurities by
certain percentage of alkali treatment and which increase the absorbing power of the textile
units, is called scouring.
Bleaching:The process by which the natural color of a fiber can be removed and make the
textile this pure white and bright is called Bleaching.
Wetting agent:The chemical which is used for quickly moisten or watering the textile
units is called wetting agent.
62. Detergent:Detergent are nothing but a chemical which is used for clearing the textile units
or to remove fats, oil and wash. It is know as surface active agent.
Labeling agent:The chemical which are used for dyeing just to give level shade or even
dyeing is called leveling agent.
Enzyme: It is one kind of biocatalyst. It is based on problem. It is soluble in water but
insoluble in acid and alkali.
Salt:Act ad erectility, helps to exhaust dye molecules to the fiber.
Exhaust:The absorption of dye moleules from the dye liquor by the fibers being dyed.
Electrolyte:A compound which is aqueous solution or in the mother state, inducts an
electric current and is simultaneously decomposed by it into inns compounds which
dissociate into inns and /or radicals in aqueous solution.
Hydrolysis:The chemical decomposition of a substance by the action of water, the water
itself being also decomposed. Acids and alkalis often catalyses hydrolysis. The destructive
effect of hydrolysis upon fiber polymers will then also result in the rupture of inter- polymer
forces of attraction.
Hydrophilic:Having a strong affinity for water, or moisture absorbent
Hydrophobic:Having an aversion to water, non-absorbent or water repellent.
Components:Upon which dyeing Process Depends:
(1) Sulostrate
(2) PH
(3) Dyeing Assistant
(4) Temperature
63. Dyeing AssistanceThese are added in dyeing bath for which dyeing affinity is increased
is called dyeing asst.
(1) Electrolyte
(2) Leveling agent
(3) Carriers
(4) Solvents
Factors to be considered for dye & dyeing process selection:
(1) Hue
(2) Shade
(3) Brightness
(4) Cost
Topping:The application of further colorant not necessarily of the same hue/class to a dyed
substance in order to adjust the lather to the denied final color is called topping.
Dyeing Process:
Process flow chart for 100% Cotton (White Color):
Fabric loading
Demineralization
(Wetting /Detergent +Antricreasing+Deminaralizing agent)
[Dosing time 5min temp 400
C ]
Temp raised at 550
C 20 min
Draining (10-min)
Deteront /wetting agent +Andricreasing agent + Caustic
[Dosing time 20 min temp-500
Cmin (Run time]
Temp raised 700
C
64. H2O2(50%) added [700
Cmin]
Temp raised at 980
C60 min
M/C Cooled (temp drop 800
C
Brightening agent added
[Dosing time 30 min 800
C min]
Temp raised 980
C
Sample check
Drain wash
normal hot wash
PH control at 4.5 (acetic acid leveling agent)
enzyme wash (550
C60 min)
Temp raised 800
10 min [enzyme killing]
after treatment with acid, leveling agent and softener
unload
Note:
(1) Enzyme wash happened after brightener for minimizing time.
(2) The required temp for enzyme wash in 550
- 600
C. At high temp (800
-820
C) the
enzyme destroyed or can ................ during the enzyme wash PH must be 4.5 cause in
alkaline condition enzyme wash can not get well.
(3) At high temperature caustic must be not use, otherwise create hates on fabric surface.
(4) Demineralization have done for remove water hardness and also remove grey fabric
hardness.
(5) Draining have not done directly at 800
C to protect crease mark.
65. Process flow chart for100% Cotton (Black Color):
Fabric loading
Demineralization (600
C10) (cracking agent +Diminaralizing agent)
Temp raised 980
C 20min
M/C cooled at 800
C
Drain wash/ Rising 5min
Added acetic acid for PH control at 4.5
Enzyme wash
EnzymeDosing time 10 min temp550
C
Run( 10 min)
PH Ckeck (6.9-7)
Leveling with No bleach N (Dosing 600
C 10 min)
Salt dosing (dosing time 30 min 600
C 5 min
color dosing (with no. bleach N) , Dosing time 30 min 600
C 10 min
Caustic added (PH= 10.5) (Dosing time -30 min 600
C 10 min )
Color steam (600
C60 min)
Sample check
Drain wash, 60 min
Acetic acid, PH -4.5 300
C 20 min
Normal wash
Ultram 350 (900
C20 min) (Unfixed dye remove)
Disusing 20 min
Softener (Dosing time= 10 min 400
C 20 min)
Unload the fabric
66. Note:-
(1) This dyeing process for any deep color such as Navy, Red etc.
(2) Black or any deep color dyeing there is no need scouring & bleaching.
(3) No bleach N or leveling agent mixed with dyes for better dye figure or get best
solution of dye figure and happened dye mixing tem not in dye bath.
(4) It the caustic is not use in this process them the common salt and soda ratio will be
80/20 where 20 means amount of soda.
Process flow chart S/J Lycra (Cotton 65%+Polyester 35%) For Blue
Color:
Fabric load
Demineralization (Liqonr1:8{500
C1D}
Caustic {Dosing time = 1D min} 500C 10 min
Temp raised 700
C
H2O2 (500
%) added {d,T= 1D min 700
C 10 min
Temp raised 980
C10min
Dye bath cool, 800
C
Sample check
Drain wash
Hot rinsing
67.
Acid, added, PH- 4.5
Enzyme wash
{dosing 550
×10min}
Temp raised 800
C10 min ,ThenDraining
Butter solution added {600
C10 min} (PH Check at 4.5)
Dispersing /leveling agent with sequestering. (600
C10 min)
Temp raised 800
Cmin
20 grace (20
c/ min) temp raised at 1300
C 40 min
20 grade temp drop at 800
C check
Drainin, 30 min
Normal wash with only water (800
C 10 min)Added acetic acid 1%
Cotton dyeing(Previous Dyeing Process)
Unload
Note:-
(1) Polyester fiber or fabric can be dyeing with disperse dye and applied at hight
temperature is, 1300
-1400
C.
(2) Disperse dyes have as conic groups and are insoluble in water.
(3) With the help of a dispersing agent dyes can be dispersed in the dye bath.
(4) Reduction clearing is done in case of medium and deep shade only to improve the
wash fastness.
(5) This high temperature process in non loxic and hygienic process.
68. (6) At high temp like 1300
C acid getting weaker so for getting PH 4.5 Butter solution is used in
polyester dyeing process and it is strong acidic along with dispersing agent.
Some special note:-
(1) Polyester is a man made, synthetic polyester, polyester filament or staple fiber . The
most common polyester apparel filament or fiber is usually composed of polyester
lerephthalate polyester.
Process Flow chart for Torques combination (100% Cotton):
Fabric loading
Demineralization {Dosing time= 15 min 400
C5min}
Temp raised at 500
C 20 then Draining
Detergent {Dosing time= 5 min 500
C5}
+multifunction agent (Nobleach N) SDT=5 500
C5
Caustic { Dosing time= 15min 500
C5 min
Temp raised at 700
C
Added H2O2 (50%) { Dosing time= 10 min 700
C5}
Temp raised at 980
Cmin
Sample check
69.
Draining & wash (cold wash)
cat (800
C 20 min)
(H2O2 Killer)
Draining wash
Acetic acid {Dosing time 400
C 5 min}
enzyme wash {550C 60min}
Run 600
×20min
after PH Check added leveling agent
(anticilConz +Sarabid MIP) {Dosing time=10} 600
C10}
Color dosing {Dosing time = 30min 600
C10 min
Temp raised at 750
C 20 grade
Salt added {Dosing time 20 min 750
C10 min}
Temp dropped at 600
C
Sample check
Soda ash added {Dosing time= 30 min 600
C10
Color steam {600
C40min}
(Shade check)
Temp raised at 800
C 20 min
Drain wash
Hot wash (Ultraw 350/RBR)
Unload fabric
70. Process flow chart for R(SPL) 100% Cotton :-
Fabric load
Wetting agent multi function agent (500C 15)
Caustic +H2O2{D.T= 10 500C}
(bleaching) (Sousing)
Tem raised 980C60
Drain wash
normal hot 90C 20
Naturalization
Acetic acid (90C 20)
Drain wash
Check PH- 6.8
Leveling with (Dosing time=- 10 330C10
Enzyme dosing (330C10)
Salt added {D,T =30 (330C10) }
Dyes dosing {D,T =30 (330C10) }
Soda added {1st step 20% 2nd step 80% }(D,T=10 min) (R.J =5 min)
Temp raised 550C5
color steam 550C30 min
Drain Wash
Soaping 1%
(800C20medium shade 90020dark shade steam 10
Neutralization for 20 min with acetic acid
71.
Drain wahs
0.5% Ck for Hot wash
(600C 20 Medium shade 80010 dark shade) steam 10
Drain wash
Check PH, 5.2
Softening with CWS {D,T =10 400C 20}
Unload
Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:
Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven Pretreatment
Improper addition of color
Improper addition of chemical
Using dyes of high fixation properties
Less control of dyeing machine
Less circulation time
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment
By proper addition of color and chemicals
Correct circulation time
By controlling the dyeing machine properly
72. Batch to batch Shade variation
Causes:
Using improper dyes and chemicals
Incorrect pretreatment procedure
Batch to batch weight variation of fabric
Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)
Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals
Remedies:
By using standard dyes and chemicals
By correcting the pretreatment procedure
By maintaining batch to batch weight variation
By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals
By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals
By following different dyeing parameter.
Dark colored spots:
Causes:
Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing
Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade
Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath
Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment
Remedies:
By ensuring proper dyeing condition
By selecting proper dyestuff
By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing
By ensuring proper after treatment
73. Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
Due to hardness of water
Due to faulty color addition
Due to faulty injection of alkali
Due to improper salt addition
Due to improper PH of solution
Remedies:
By using proper sequestering agent
By correcting the color addition
By correcting the salt addition
By proper injection of alkali
By maintaining the PH level of the solution
Crease mark:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Due to high speed of machine running
Unequal pump pressure and reel speed
Remedies:
By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed.
By controlling the speed of the machine.
Correct opening of the fabric rope.
Roll to roll variation:
Causes:
Poor migration property of dye.
Hardness of water.
Improper dyes solubility.
Faulty machine speed.
Remedies:
74. Use standard dyes and chemicals
Proper machine speed.
Using soft waste.
Remarks
The dyeing process of Cotton Club (BD) ltd. is very much satisfactory. Cotton Club only
cares for quality. It is heard from the management of the company, after establishing the
factory till now, a single order is not cancelled. That’s why it is sure that the company is well
enough to produce quality fabric.
Chapter Nine:
Finishing section
Introduction of Finishing:
Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such a way that the product has the
desired properties required for its intended useand therefore has great market value. The
desired properties may include the fabric dimensions and their stability, its weight, drape,
appearance, softness and handle, as well as any required functional properties such as
75. resistance to creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacteria. Textile finishing is therefore an
extremely diverse field involving an extensive range of chemicals.
The degree of permanency of a particular finish for a fabric depends on its intended use. The
chemicals used may weigh the fabric to make it easy to slide and handle, or allow smooth
penetration of a sewing needle to minimize needle breakage.
Anyone involved in textile coloration must be aware of the influence of preparation process
on the dyeing behavior of the fabrics as well as the finishing chemicals on the final color of
the goods and on their color fastness properties. Without this knowledge, nobody can ensure
the ultimate color and its fastness properties
.The techniques of finishing depend on the following:
Nature of the fabric,
i.e. chemical composition, state, weave etc. this determines the appearance,
i.e. transparency, luster, fullness, weight, whiteness etc.
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular
form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.
The tubular and open finishing sequences of Fakir KnitwearsLTD .Bangladesh Ltd are given
bellow
76. Flow Chart of finishing for tube fabric:
Dyed Fabric
Hydro extractor Tube Squeezer
Tube Compactor
Final Inspection
Delivery to Garments
Tube Dryer
77. Flow Chart of finishing for Open Width fabric:
Dyed Fabric
Open Squeezer
Stenter
Tumble dryer Ultra-soft
Compactor
Final Inspection
Delivery to Garments
Objective of finishing:
Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc
Improving the feel,this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,
suppleness, fullness, etc.
Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing,flame proofing, etc.
Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
Increasing the weight of the cloth.
78. Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
2) Mechanical finishing:
Finishing effects:
Easy - care
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Good sew ability
Soft or stiff handle.
Shine or luster
Observation of Different Finishing M/C:
Squeezer or De-Watering M/C
After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.
This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the
main function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of
the fabric quality.
79. Squeezer:-
Turntable (Basket)
Detwister
Ring Guide Speeder
Feed R/R
Dancing R/r
Water Pander
Ballon former
Extracting Squeezer
Dancin roller
Softener padder
Ballon Former
Padding squeezer
Main squeezer
Conveyors Blanket
Paliter
Delivery basket
Important parts
• Twist detector
• Expander
• Padder
80. The basic function of the squeezing m/c:
To remove the water from the fabric.
To control the width of the fabric.
To control the length of the fabric.
To control the spirality of the fabric.
To control the over feeding system.
To increase the softness of the fabric.
To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
Controlling points:
• Diameter setting must be accurate.
• Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Padder pressure depends on
fabric construction.
• Speed must be optimum.
• Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.
• Overfeed.
Dryer
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.
Important Parts:
o Conveyor net
o Chamber
o Burner
o Exhaust air fan
o Over feed roller
o Filter net
o Fan
o Nozzle
The basic function of the dryer:
To dry the fabric.
81. To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
To control the GSM of the fabric.
Controlling Points
o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structure
o Temperature: It depends on color.
o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the
speed.
Compactor:-
Basket
Spindle R/r
Centering R/r
Under feed R/r
Over feed R/r
Tension control R/r
Bowing Control R/r
Brush R/r
Endless Clip /Pin
Steam box
Heated Conveyor Blanket
Coaling Fan
Take-Up-r/r
Plaiter
82.
Delivering Basket
TUBE COMPACTOR
Important parts
Overfeed roller
Expander
Blanket
Steam sprayers
Cylinder
Teflon covers
The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine
• To control the GSM. (Increase&decrease).
• To control the dia.
• To control the shrinkage. (Increase&decrease).
Controlling Points
a. Temperature : It depends on construction and composition &color of the fabric.
b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.
c. Blanket Pressure: Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.
d. Over feed : Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over feed
leads to the formation of crease mark.
83. Observation of tube compacter setting for different fabric
Fabric
parameter
Single jersey 1 x 1 Rib Collar, Cuff
Compector 30 30 N/A
Overfeed 5 12 N/A
Padder pressure 30 bar 30 bar 18 bar
Speed 18 m/min 18 m/ min 15 m/min
Temperature 100o
C 100o
C 100o
C
OPEN COMPACTOR
Important parts
• Over-feed roller
• Blanket
• Steam sprayers
• Cylinder
• Tell on covers
84. The basic functions of the Open compactor machine
• To control the GSM. (Increase& decrease).
• To control the dia.
• To control the shrinkage. (Increase& decrease).
Controlling Points
a.Temperature :It depends on construction and composition & color of the
fabric.
b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.
c. Blanket Pressure : Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.
d. Over feed :Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over
feed leads to the formation of crease mark.
Observation ofopen compactor setting for different fabric :
Fabric
parameter
Single jersey CVC S/J L – Rib P.K. F/T
Required Dia 88’’ 92” 80” 104” 80”
Actual Dia 90” 94” 84” 108” 84”
Finished Dia 89” 93” 82” 106” 82”
Required GSM 160 180 240 200 240
Actual GSM 150 170 210 190 230
Finished GSM 155 175 220 200 240
85. Overfeed 12 12 10 12 10
Temperature 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C 80o
C
Slitting Machine
Slitter:
Basket (M/C)
J. Box (Padder)
Retested
SlitteringRevice (Shape &Knife)
Spindle R/r
Cantering R/r
Spindle R/r
Squeezer
Take-up-roller
Pleiter
86. Delivery Basket
Important parts
• Twist detector
• Cutting knife/device
• Padder
Main Function of Slitting m/c
To open the tube forms of fabric
To squeeze the fabric and remove the extra water in the fabric.
Controlling Points
• Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement.
• Speed-The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)
88. Take-up R/r
Planter
Delivering Basket
() Heat flow of Burner
Gas fire
Blower fan
Nuzzle
Fabric
Important parts
Burner
Exhaust air fan (4 )
Suction fan (8 )
Overfeed roller
Nozzle
Chain arrangement
The basic functions of the stenter machine
To control width.
To control GSM.
To control shrinkage.
To control spirality.
Drying of fabric.
To remove edge curl of the fabric
To remove the crease mark of the fabric
To remove the hardness of the fabric
89. To increase the better shade properties
To give belter finishing result of the fabric
Controlling Points
a. Temperature : It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.
For
S/J the temp is 150°C and 170°C for stripe fabrics.
b. Over feed : Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.
c. Width setting : Higher width setting reduces the GSM.
d. Speed :It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.
Observation of stenter setting for different fabric
Fabric Inspection :
Fabric
parameter
Single jersey L – Rib P.K. F/T
Required Dia 88’’ 80” 54” 80”
Actual Dia 90.5” 88” 67” 84”
Required GSM 160 240 210 240
Actual GSM 148 218 185 232
Temperature 170o
C 170o
C 170o
C 170o
C
Overfeed 60% 45% 60% 40%
Machine speed 20 18 18 16
Dia setting 2310 mm 2400 mm 1720 mm 2150 mm
90. The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting,
dyeing or finishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be good and
the buyer will reject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of this finished
fabric is so important. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:
Fabric inspection report:
Here, 4- point system is used for inspecting goods. Spining knitting and processing
faults are inspected and enlisted here, commons fauls that are found here are yarn,
cont............... slub, neps hole, needle mark, niuker mark lyera miss/out, oil stain , crease
mark, softener mark, color spot mark, Bowing mark etc.
() 4 Point system:
Fault size –––––––––––– Points
0-3––––––––––––––––– 1
>3 -6–––––––––––––––2
>6 -9–––––––––––––––3
>9–––––––––––––––––––4
Hole –––––––––––––––––4
Acceptance
Up to 40 Points =A
41-60 Points =B
61-80 Points =C
80 above = Rejected
Calculation:
Roll length (YD) = Kg/ Roll 155036
PTS/100 lender YDS=
91. 100
36
)(
int
widthactual
ydlengthRoll
sPoTotal
Here, PTS= Total fault (%).
Shrinkage test report
This report is prepared according to buyer name order no. It can be done both for
finished fabric /T-shirts. Amount of shrinkage is expressed both in percentage (%) and in can.
Dyeing finishing Quality Report
This report contain information about roll no, M/C dia Required dia, Finished dia,
Finished GSM, Shrinkage (Length &widith wise) etc.
GSM Board
GSM of finished fabrics from different rolls of a Batch is around here with sample.
GSM of 50% acceptable from required.
92. Chapter Ten:
Quality Assurance System
Quality Assurance System
The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the
material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
The focus of the quality policy of Fakir Knitwear Ltd has been to provide products at a
price and service advantage through direct response mechanism. In order to sustain the
investments in the key technology area concerning our business, Fakir Knitwear have made
significant investment testing and quality assurance equipment from the best in the world in
each of our production bases and also ensured a Company-wide standardization discipline
through implementation of OEKO-TEX & ISO 9001:2000. These are reinforced periodically
through personal interactions between their filed representatives and consumer of their
products. Fakir Knitwear Ltd advance management team along with well-trained Quality
Assurance team ensures the best quality of products to meet the international standard.
93. The quality team follows some standardized international rules which are as
follows:
Fabric Inspection : 4 Points system (for Dyeing)
Sewing In process : Traffic light system
Factory Garment Quality AQL : 2.5 AQL
Line in Process : 7 Pcs system
Needle detection report : 9 point system
Quality check station point Light : 1000 Lucks
Moreover the quality team creates various types of report for maintaining the best quality.
They always create GSM check report, Light box system report. The process of the quality
teams are:
Pattern test
Trial Inspection
In line Process
Pre-final process
Final Process
Fakir Knitwears Ltd is the only factory in Bangladesh that got the nomination from the world
renowned buyer H&M’s skip process. The In house quality team maintains the quality and
inspection of the H&M’s product and finishes the final inspection. They have also a GPQ
team to ensure the work process of quality team. This is for why they always maintaining the
best quality for their friend’s (buyers) products.
Quality Control:
Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to control of
the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products. It is concerned
not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but also concerned with
the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. In order to
control quality one must know about the consumers expectations.
94. Quality assurance:
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary to
provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for
quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform
quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing
Quality Control Flow Chart:
Yarn receiving
Sample Knitting
Batching
Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)
Dewatering & Untwisting
Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and
GSM)
Compacting
Final inspection
If sample OK go for bulk production
95. Quality Management system:
Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-
Online quality control:
Online quality control comprises with the raw material control, process control & finish
fabric inspection.
Raw material control:
As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance department
must ensure that the best qualities of raw material (with economical consideration) are used
in
production.
The Yarn should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.
The yarn & Lycra should be compatible with each other.
The fabric must be with out faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as
per requirement of the subsequent process.
Process control:
The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary
parameters.
During knitting, samples are taken and G.S.M checks with the reference
samples.
If not properly reset the machine parameter.
Sample is collected after fixation & matched.
During finishing, temperature, speed, padder pressure, overfeed should be
controlled as per requirement.
GSM, width, spirality, shrinkage (both length & width) should be
maintaining as per buyer requirement.
Quality
Control
On-Line
Off-Line
96. Finish fabric inspection:
Purpose:
To ensure that only an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments and
proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.
Scope:
All produced and incoming fabrics of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.
Procedure:
Store in charge will check the received fabric with the reported length,
color and type of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and
the actual order quantity.
The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding
fabric type, color and length will be notified to the Factory
Manager/Manager (Dyeing & Finishing).
For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.
1. Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time as require. The fabric are
spread over the milky white acrylic inspection board ensures high transparency and even
reflection of light. Then by the inspection machine fabrics are inspected visually at a
standard speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall
out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubsetc are recorded in inspection
report to classify the fabric based on the four points system.
2. Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar & cuff are inspected visually under the light box. For any major or minor fault in
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round
problem etc are properly counted and recorded.
Quality inspector (fabric) shall check 100% of receive fabric for quality. He will identify
any defect, hole or stain in the fabric and make calculation given bellow-
97. Scope of Quality control and testing:
The scope of quality control testing in FKL is little good. It has the following ability for
quality control & testing,
- Fabric inspection by 4-point system.
- GSM & Shrinkage test.
- Wash fastness test.
- Rubbing fastness test.
- Color difference check by data base.
- PH
test.
- Pilling and snagging test.
Defects found in the final inspection:
Oil mark/Spot Crease mark Shade dull/bright Color spot
Shrinkage Stripe Bowing/Skewing Uneven shade
Running shadeSticky mark Blake tripe problem Softener spot
Shade not OK (Occurred by buyer’s representative) Roll to rllo shade
variation
On-Line Tests:
For Pretreatment For dyeing
PH
test Shade matching check
Absorbency test PH
check
Fabric width measure Wash fastness Check
Whiteness test Machine checking
Water quality test
98. Off- line Quality Control:
FKL have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used and processed
materials. There are two types of materials are tested in GKL laboratory for the purpose of
quality control. This are –
A. Fabric testing.
B. Raw materials testing.
A. Fabric testing:
All the Off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:
1. Physical Tests.
2. Chemical Tests.
Physical tests:
Fabric inspection by 4-point system.
G.S.M test.
Width of the fabric measure.
Rubbing test.
Pilling and Snagging test.
Shrinkage test
Twisting test
Chemical tests:
Color fastness to water.
Color fastness to wash.
Color fastness to perspiration.
Oxidative test damage.
Saliva test.
B. Raw material testing:
Yarn count test.
Yarn strength test.
Yarn TPI test.
Lycra count test.
99. List of Equipments:
Sl. No. Machine Name Model
No.
Serial
No.
Manufacturer Built Year Origin
01 Auto Pill C 1401 145331 Mec Engineers
Ltd.
2005 India
02 PH
meter 6173 PH
JC 00385 Jenco Japan
03 Sample Knitting
Machine
STN 5 E 290 GeengTyan
Enterprise Co.
Ltd.
1993 Taiwan
04 Auto Burst 28 C 0601 145340 MecEngineers
Ltd.
2005 India
05 Mec Sun Fast C 1399 145329 Mec Engineers
Ltd.
2005 India
06 Unistrength 250 C 1450 14939 Mec Engineers
Ltd.
2005 India
07 Crock meter James H. Heal
& Co. Ltd.
England
08 Count Teste AEN 1433 OricineBrustio
Ltd.
2005 Italy
09 Sample Dryer DO-452 Precision Oven
Ltd.
10 Digioven C1301 145324 Mec Engineers
Ltd.
2005 India
11 Washcator FOM
71CLS
Electrolux
12 Unistretch C 1451 14940 Mec Engineers
Ltd.
2005 India
100. Color Fastness:-
The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer its
colorant to adjacent material or both as a result of exposure of the material to any
environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing , storage or use of the
material. Color fastness types:
– Wash fastness to hot water as per ISO method
– Wash fastness to cool water as per ISO method
– Rubbing fastness (dry & wet)
– Light fastness
– Perspiration fastness
– Dry cleaning fastness
– Chlorinated or sea water fastness
Factors affecting color fastness:
– Dye size or molecular structure of a dye
– Types of bonding (i.e., ionic , co-valent, H-bond etc.)
– Amount of dye present in fibre
– Chemical nature of fibre or compatibility of dye with fibre
– Presence of other chemicals like binder
– The actual condition prevailing during exposure and after treatment
Reasons of color loss:
– Due to decomposition of dye molecules
– Due to removal of external media
– Due to reaction of dye molecules with acid, alkali, or perspiration
– Due to friction with other surface
101. Color fastness and other test result:
Different types of fastness standard are given below:
Sl. No. Name of the fastness Methods
ISO AATCC
01 Color fastness to washing 105 CO1-C06 61
02 Color fastness to light 105 BO2 16 E
03 Color fastness to perspiration 105 EO4 15
04 Color fastness to rubbing 105 * 12 8
05 Color fastness to hot pressing 105 * 11 133
06 Color fastness to cool water 105 EO1 107
07 Color fastness to sea water 105 EO2 106
08 Color fastness to chlorinated water 105 EO3 105
09 Color fastness to dry cleaning 105 DO1 132
Measurement direction:
Buyer Name Direction
H & M Width Wise
Other buyers (Tema, Pennyes, Primark) Length Wise
Fig: Bursting Strength Tester Fig: Pilling Resistance Tester
102. Rubbing fastness (ISO 105 X12):
Sample size : 20cm×5cm
Crock fabric : 5cm×5cm
No. of rotation : 10
Time : 10 sec
Load : 9N±5%
Assessment:
Grey scale value for
staining
Rating Remark
5 Excellent
4-5 Good
4 Good
3-4 Average
3 Average
2-3 Average
2 Poor
1 Very poor
Washing fastness (ISO 105 CO1-CO6):
Sample size : 10cm×4cm
Adjacent fabric : 5cm×4cm
Temperature : 40C
Time : 45 min
103. Assessment:
Grey scale value for
change value &
staining
Rating Remark
5 Excellent
4-5 Good
4 Good
3-4 Average
3 Average
2-3 Average
2 Poor
1 Very poor
Dimensional stability:
Sample size : 10cm×10cm
Temperature : 45C
Time : 30 min
Accepted range of shrinkage/extension is ±5%
Grey scale for assessing change in shade:
EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211
This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of change in shade caused to a dyed Textile
fabric / yarn in color fastness tests. For example, the change of shade of wool and cotton
fabrics in the wash fastness, perspiration fastness etc. The scale consists of nine pairs of gray
color chips each representing a visual difference and contrast.
104. The fastness rating goes step-wise from:
Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).
The gray scale has the 9 possible values:
5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.
It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale change in color instrumentally. This is
made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method
procedure, EN ISO 105-A05.
105. Grey scale for assessing staining:
EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211
This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of staining caused by a dyed Textile / yarn in
color fastness tests. For example, the staining of wool and cotton fabrics in the wash fastness,
perspiration fastness, etc.
The scale consists of nine pairs of gray color chips each representing a visual difference and
contrast.
The fastness rating goes step-wise from:
Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).
The grey scale has the 9 possible values:
5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.
106. It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale for assessing staining instrumentally. This
is made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method
procedure, EN ISO 105-A04.
Chapter Eleven
Garment Section
Sample Section
Responsibilities:
Overall management of developing appropriate sample garments as per buyer's
requirement.
Conduct Fit & Pattern evaluation.
Make basic block pattern.
Ensure production as per planning and also ensure target of production with
standard of quality.
Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, garments manufacturing team
for smooth production.
Ensure effective workforce management of the sample division for smooth
operation of the factory.
Coordinating all fabric + trims which are required for sampling purpose
Coordinating print, embroidery, wash for sampling.
Checking all the technical aspects of samples before releasing to customer.
Checking all the aesthetic aspects of samples before releasing to customer
Checking the quantity requirement of each sample.
Checking the necessary paper work of reach sample.
Follow up the buyer reg. each sample comments.
107. Usages Machineries:
In the sample making section they use all types of machines as in Garments section. These
arc
Set squares for making basic block.
Mack Km cutting machine
– Speed- 3000-3600
– Volts-220 V
– Current- 3.3/2.6 amp
- Cycle-50/60
Sewing machine
1 -Needle Lockstitch (auto thread trimmer)
1-Needle Chain. Stitch, Flatbed
2-Necdle Lockstitch
2-Nccdlc Chain Stitch, Flatbed
4-Thread Over Lock
-Bartack Machine (Computerized)
-Button Hole Machine
-Button Sewing Machine
-Blind Stitch (Over lock) etc.
Steam ironing
108. Machine Brand:
1. BROTHER (Japan)
2. Pl-GASUS (Japan)
They make three types of sample. Such as
1.Quotation sample:
At first they make a sample of medium size as per buyer requirements is called quotation
sample. If the sample is not ok they make another sample called revised quotation sample.
2.Size set sample:
If the quotation sample is ok then they make the samples of all size which are call size set
sample. If it is not ok the make revised size set sample.
3.Production sample:
Finally they make the sample for production called production sample
109. Working procedure:
The working procedure of sample making department is as follows
At first they collect the measurement chart from merchandizing dept.
Make basic block pattern by hand or by CAD (middle size only)
Cut the fabric according to the pattern (for 2-3 sample)
Then the dept. Head or coordinator provide the cutting sample to the sewing operator
and provide the measurement sheet by buyer.
Sew a sample according to buyer requirements
Inspect the sample after finishing.
The sample is then provided to merchandizing dept.
If it is ok they are called to make size set sample or if it is not ok they have to make
revised quotation sample
They make grading pattern by the CAD department
Make sample of all size as the same procedure and provide to merchandizing
department. If it is ok they make production samples or not they have to make revised
size set samples.
110. CAD (Computer Aided Design) Section
Responsibilities:
• Make basic pallern and production pattern.
• Make more efficient marker identifying each part of the Garments,
• Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, sample section, garments
manufacturing team for smooth production.
• Make fabric consumption with allowance %, shrinkage% and total process loss %.
• Identify fabric diameter for each si/e of Garments.
• Make easy the fabric cutting.
Usage equipments:
1. Misfires software for pattern making.
2. Dimarien software for marker making.
3. Lectra printer for marker print.
111. Working procedure:
MARCHANDISING
Art work Spread sheet from Merchandiser
Making Pattern sewing. Allowance as per Spread Sheet+ Art Work for a large size
sample
Make an efficient marker As per Color Art Work
Calculate required fabric consumption with shrinkage% and process loss%
Marker Delivery to Concern Merchandiser for approval with consumption and fabric
diameter
Received buyer approval Master Pattern '%
Completion of Grading as per spread sheet sample
Grading pattern with marker send to cutting section for Trial cat / Size set
Pattern update after getting Report as per color wise
Delivery to cutting production
112. Considerable factor:
1.Sewing allowance
• All 95/5% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps
two side.
• All 100% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps
two side.
2.Shrinkage percentage
• All 95/5% cotton single jersey 5%x3°c shrinkage is added.
• All 95/5% cotton rib fabric 3% 2% shrinkage is added.
• All 100% cotton single jersey 3%X
2% shrinkage is added.
• All 100% cotton rib no shrinkage is added.
• All lycra fabrics 5% shrinkage is added.
3.Process loss
For making actual fabric consumption the CAD section consider following process losses.
1. Temaconsumption lorall type of fabrics with bio finish
Actual
Consumpt
ion
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
Cut panel
losses
Sewing
losses
Print/Em
b losses
Process
losses
Total
losses
White 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%
Light color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%
Medium color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 10 20%
Dark color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 8% 1 8%
Black 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 6% 16%
Grey mel. 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 5% 15%
113. II. H&M consumption for all type of fabrics with bio finish
Actual
Consumpti
on
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
Son in«
losses
Print/Em b
losses
Process
losses
Total losses
While 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 25%
Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 20%
Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 28%
Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%
Black 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%
Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 5% 13%
III Wash Garments consumption for all Buyer
Actual
Consiim
ption
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
Cut
panel
losses
Sewing
losses
Print/Em
b
Josses
Process
losses
Total
losses
White 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%
.Light color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%
Medium color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 10% 23%
Dark color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 8% 21%
Black 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 6% 19%
Grey mel. 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 5% 18%
114. IV. Other buyer consumption for all type of fabrics without bio finish
Actual
Consump
tion
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
S cuing
losses
Print/Em
b losses
Process
losses
Total
losses
White 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%
Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%
Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%
Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%
Black 3% 3% 1+1% 4% 12%
Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 3% 11%
V. H& M and Tema consumption for all type of yarn dyed fabrics with
bio finish.
Actual
ption
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
Sewing
losses
Print/Em
b
losses
Process
losses
Total
losses
Average color 6% 3% 1+1% 6% 17%
115. VI. Pigment dyed Garments consumption for all buyer
Actual
Consum
Ption
Color Cut
fabrics
losses
Cut
panel
losses
Sewing
losses
Print/Em
h
losses
Process
losses
Total
losses
Average color 3% 2% 12% 1+1% 6% 25%
Formula:
Fabric consumption in Kg
markettheingarmentsofmember
markettheofareaTotlal
no. of required garments
X process loss% x Fabric GSM
Fabric Diameter Marker diameter side space (1-2.5")
Note:
In the CAD section normally they calculate the fabric consumption for a large size sample.
For this, the amount of required fabrics is more. So fabric wastages are more. If it is possible
to evaluate the fabric consumption for each then some fabrics may be save. And it will be
beneficial for the Company.
Cutting section
In Fakir Knitwears Limited there are three cutting unit
1. Unit 1 (capacity- 70-80 thousand pcs per day)
2. Unit 2 (capacity- 80-100 thousand pcs per day)
3. Unit 3 (capacity- 40-45 thousand pcs per day)
116. Responsibilities:
• Collect the information from planning department about which fabrics have to be
cut.
• Collect the fabric Iron the finished fabric store.
• Collect the marker from CAD department.
• Fold the fabric according to the roll number.
• Spread the fabric in the cutting table with required diameter required amount.
• Cut the fabric according to the marker.
• Make the fabric according to the si/.e, lot, amount of pieces and etc
• Divide the fabrics according to the fabric roll number.
• Inspect the fabric.
• If required print the fabric.
• Store the fabric into input area and deliver the cut fabrics to the sewing department.
Working procedure:
File collect from planning department
Fabric collects from store
Marker come from CAD
Fabric folding by auto folding machine
Fabric spreading (Lay)
Marker setting on the lay
Cutting (By using Straight knife, and automatic cutter)
Sticker attaches & hand check
117.
Reject part change
Bundling
If required Print / Embroidery
Store on input rack
Equipments usage:
1. Cutting table
• Unit 1-6
• Unit 2- 7
• Unit 3- 4
2. Auto folding machine
• Number- 4
• Brand-KONSAN .
3. Auto spreading Machine
• Number- 4
• Brand- fly
4. Auto cutter 1
• Brand- I.cctra
• Model- Vector M88K fashion
• Fabric diameter- upto 84"
• Software- Spread initial
5. Auto cutter 2
• Brand- Takatori
• Model- UN
118. • Fabric diameter- upto 73"
• Software- Spread initial
6. Straight knife cutting machine
• Brand- KM
• Speed- 3000-3600
• Volts- 220 V
• Current- 3.3/2.6 amp
• Cycle- 5060
7. Sticker attaching machine
8. Inspection table
9. Input rack
Requirements of fabric spreading:
Alignment of fabric ply
Correct ply tension
Fabric must be flat
Elimination of fabric Haws
(Correct ply direction
Elimination of static electricity
Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Avoidance of distortion in spread
Matching cheeks or stripes
Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.
120. Elimination of fabric Haws
(Correct ply direction
Elimination of static electricity
Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Avoidance of distortion in spread
Matching cheeks or stripes
Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.
Process loss:
Fabric loss is a major contribution to material utilization. Minimizing fabric loss during
spreading can reduce the total production costs for garment manufacturing. This is the key
point which has been highlighted in this report. Today garment industry is facing very tough
scenario because of more competitors and less buyers, buyers have many options but
suppliers have very limited choices, the time has gone when there was quota system and
garment industry didn't need to be very many efficient but today suppliers are fighting for
price and quality; on fewer prices better quality is expected. Orders are given to the suppliers
who offer better quality and less prices. So within such scenario, only the things which can
increase profit and minimize loss of a company is fabric saving. Fabric loss in cutting section
may be for following reason.
Inefficient marker
Variation of fabric diameter
Higher GSM than required
More fabric faults
More dyeing faults.
Note:Strife fabrics and low GSM fabrics arc cut by hand cutting
121. Communication module of Sample, CAD and Cutting Section:
Merchandising
Printing/
Embroidery
Sample
CAD
Cutting
Sewing
