Overview, formulation and trends of color cosmetics and makeup products

1. Color cosmetics and makeup products
Overview, Formula composition, trends and innovation
Dr.Naphatsorn Kumar
School of Cosmetic Science, MFU
naphatsorn.kum@mfu.ac.th
(Image source: Google Images)

2. Outline
• Overview of color cosmetics
• Formula composition
• Trends and innovation for makeup products
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3. Introduction
• Makeup products are used since ancient time
• For improving appearance, sun protection and
medical applications
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4. Ancient Asia
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5. Advances in makeup products
• Advances in pigments research
– New optical properties give distinctive look
• Advances in ingredients
– Polymers that have distinctive feel
• Functional makeup
– Combination of makeup and care
– Alphabet products: AA, BB, CC, DD, EE, etc.
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6. Formulation
• Pigments play a major roles
• Classification of pigments
– Organic pigment
– Mineral pigment: Titanium dioxide and iron oxides
– Nacreous pigment
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7. Organic pigments
• Only those that allowed by FDA
• Organic pigments are created by the precipitation reaction of
soluble dye with some minerals such as aluminium and calcium
hydroxides
• Called “Lakes”
(Image source: Google Images)

8. Nacreous pigments
• or Pearlescents
• Create frosted appearance
• Divided into 3 classes
– Guanine or Natural pearl essences from fish scale
– Bismuth oxychloride: Metallic look
– Mica and surface-treated mica
(Image source: Google Images)

9. Spring/Summer 2015 color trends
9(Roberts, 2015)

10. Fall winter 2015/2016 Color trends
• Nude tone
• Face contouring
• Soft focus
• “Enhance rather than erase”
(Harrington and Dobos, 2015)
(Image source: Google Images)

11. Base makeup
• or Face makeup
• Helps make skin look natural and beautiful
• Masks imperfections on skin
• New pigments: pigments that coated with silicone or fluoride oil
will give specific sensory profile, some pigments have auto-
adaptive effect with can adjust to light
(Image source: Google Images)

12. Importance of Base makeups
(www.allnaturalskincare.com)

13. Foundations
• Dosage forms: liquid, gel, cream, solid cream, stick, cake,
mousse
• Popular foundations: o/w, si/w, oil-free, water-free (anhydrous)
• Dosage form vs skin types
– o/w and si/w: normal and oily
– w/o and w/si: dry and normal
– Oil-free: oily
– Anhydrous: concealing effect

14. Products
14
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15. • Common pigments:
– Mica: transperent, glow
– Titanium dioxide: good covering, UV protection but hard feel
– Silica: oil control
• A surface treated pigments: give extra sensory and special
characteristics
– Silicone treated: smooth feel but lipid miscible will collapse when
contact with skin sebum
– Perfluoroalkyl phosphate and fluoro compounds treated: excellent oil
and water repellency
– Polymer coated: for UV protection

16. Face powders
• Provide coverage complexion of
imperfections, oil control, matte finished
and smoothness
• Provides long lasting effect and
absorbing extra oil from foundations
• Face powders: loose powder and
compact powder
(Image source: Google images)

17. Face powder ingredients
• Talc and Serecite: spreadability
• Chalk and Kaolin: absorbability
• Magnesium stearate: adherence
• Zinc oxide and Titanium oxide: coverage
• Pigments: color
• Mica: improve skin feel, product adhesion and skin adhesion
• Nylon and Polyamide: improve skin feel
(Image source: Google images)

18. Functional base makeup
• Barrier improving makeup: contain ceramides
• Moisturizer makeup: moisturizing ingredients
• Anti-aging makeup: antioxidants, anti-wrinkle agents
• Sun protection: sunscreens
• Whitening and lightening
(Image source: Google Images)

19. Physicians formula Youthful wear spotless foundation SPF15
Sunscreen: Octinoxate 3%
Others: Isododecane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Mica, PEG-10 Dimethicone,
Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacr
Copolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer,
Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Ribes
Nigrum Seed Oil, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract,
Ceramide 3, Olive Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Nylon-12, Polyamide-5,
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dehydroacetic
Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hexylene Glycol,
Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Polysilicone -11
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Propylene Carbonate,
Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water, Phenoxyethanol.
May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides

20. Photogenic pigments
Hylamide Photography foundation
Fractionated Blurring Silica Suspension
• Nano fractions of silica-based prisms create
light confusion for reduced visible lines and
pores immediately without looking like
traditional makeup, while specifically creating
a perfect backdrop to highlight facial features
through the camera lens(Image source: Google Images)

21. Products in trends
• Mousse texture in jar
• Mousse spray
• Cushion
• Spray
• Photogenic/Photoready
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22. Cushions
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23. Next cushion = Air cushion
(Yonwoo Co Ltd.)

24. Air cushion from Korea
For ingredients: http://asianskincareblog.blogspot.com/2014/12/sum37-air-rising-tf-dazzling-cushion.html

25. Next step: Metal cushion
su:m 37 air rising TF glow cover metal cushion
VDL beauty metal cushion foundation
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26. Blusher
27(Source: Google images)

27. Point makeup
• Lip products
• Eye products
(Image source: Google images)

28. Lipsticks
• Consist of oils, waxes and pigments + other ingredients
• Waxes will give hardness to lipsticks and adhesive effect to skin
• Oils will give slippery and soft effect on application
• Pigments:
– Titanium dioxide: give opacity, intensity and coverage
– Pearlescent: give color highlight
(Image source: Google Images)

29. Matte vs Gloss lipsticks
• For matte lipsticks
– Talc, Nylon, Silica, Polymethylmethacrylates are useful for matte look
• For gloss lipsticks
– High level of waxy substances
(Image source: Google Images)

30. Functional lipstick and lip care products
• Lipsticks that contain peptides that exert plumping effects
• Some are contain blood circulations stimulants

31. Examples
Duwop Lip venom
Hydrogenated Polyisobutane, Jojoba (Simmondsia
Chinensis) Seed Oil, Avocado (Persea Gratissma)
Oil, Flavor (Aroma)*, Propylparaben, Benzyl
Alcohol, Linalool, Red 6 Lake (Cl 15850)
* Claimed that it is cinnamon

32. Examples
MD formulation The Temps Perfecting Lip Plumper
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane,
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii
(Shea Butter) Fruit, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil,
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycine Soja
(Soybean) Oil, Ozokerite Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla)
Wax, Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline,
Menthoxypropanediol, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil,
Squalene, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol,
Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Sorbitan, Isostearate, Palmitoyl
Oligopeptide, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium
Hyaluronate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Silica Dimethyl
Silylate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Atelocollagen, Vanillyl Butyl
Ether, Flavor

33. Trends in lip makeups
• Matte lip liquid
• Duo or Trio colors lipstick
• Lip tint in oil (Tint-in-oil lipgloss)
• Color changing lipstick
• Lip tattoo (wrapping tint)
(Image source: Google Images)

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38. YSL Tint-in-oil Lip gloss
Consists of apricot kernel oil, coriander fruit oil, jojoba seed oil
and Passiflora edulis seed oil
(Image source: Google Images)

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41. Eye products
• Eye products required extra care
• Prevention of contamination which may lead to the eye infection
• For eyeshadows: their formula compositions is comparable to
face powder, with smaller pigment size and wider color range
• For eyeliner: usually comes in liquid, with extra-fine pigment size

42. Eye trends
• Metallics are the element to luxury look
• New palettes usually contain metallic shade

43. Novel eyeshadow
Rice starch eyeshadow from Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics
Ingredients:
Mica (CI 77019), Zinc Stearate, Caprylic/ Capric
Triglyceride, Lauroyl Lysine, Oryza Sativa (Rice)
Starch, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil,
Lonicera caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera
japonica Flower Extract. May Contain: Titanium
Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI
77492, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470),
Ultramarines (CI 77007), Chromium Oxide Greens
(CI 77288), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Bismuth
Oxychloride (CI 77163), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI
77510), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (CI
42090).

44. Mascara
• Special product with particular development
• Choice of mascara depends on types of eyelashes and the
require effects
• Formulations can be water-based, solvent-based and hybrids
• Film-former is the important ingredient in mascara, as its film will
thicken, lengthen, or darken the eyelashes, according to the
film-former types

45. Functional mascara
• Lash stimulator mascara with Biotinoyl tripeptide-1
• Example: Clarins Be-long mascara
Ingredients
Water, Glyceryl stearate, Microcrystalline wax, Carnuaba
wax, Castor oil, Stearic acid, Butylene glycol, Pentylene
glycol, VP/Hexadecene copolymer, Palmitic acid, Acrylates
copolymer, Polyvinyl alcohol, Glycerin, Aminomethyl
propanediol, Sodium dehydroacetate, Panthenol, Biotinoyl
tripeptide-1  CI77491, CI77492, CI77493, CI77891,
CI77510, CI77742, CI77007, CI77163, CI77289, CI77288,
CI42090, CI19140

46. References
• Harrington L and Dobos KA. (2015). Beauty trends for fall/winter 2015-2016.
GCI September 2015;30-32.
• Korichi R and Trachant J-F. (2014). Decorative products in In Barel AO,
Paye M and Maibach HI. eds. Handbook of cosmetic science and
technology, 4th ed. pp. 439-451.
• Mason S. (2015). The color essentials. GCI January/February 2015:18-21.
• Mohiuddin O. (2014) Color cosmetics Trending toward multifunctionality.
Cosm & Toil 129(1):18-20.
• Rigano L. (2014). Cheek to cheek: deciphering stains and blushes. Cosm &
Toil 129(1):54-59.
• Roberts R. (2015). Spring/summer 2015 Color trends. GCI January/February
2015;22-24.